Top Flite A0300 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both

materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts

damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the

purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no

liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final

user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all

resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the

buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models

P.O. Box 788

Urbana, IL 61803

Technical Assistance - Call [phone]

www.top-flite.com

CES6P03 V1.3

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

™

Entire Contents © Copyright 2002

USA

MADE IN

INTRODUCTION........................................... 3

PRECAUTIONS............................................. 4

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE EARLY

IN THE BUILDING SEQUENCE................... 4

Engine Selection........................................... 4

Flaps............................................................. 4

Operational Lighting ..................................... 5

Notes for Competition-Minded Modelers...... 5

Documentation ............................................. 5

Other Items Required .................................. 5

Suggested Supplies and Tools ..................... 5

Common Abbreviations................................ 6

Metric Conversions....................................... 6

Types of Wood.............................................. 6

DIE-CUT PATTERNS.................................7&8

Get Ready to Build ....................................... 9

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES ...................... 9

Build the Horizontal Stabilizer....................... 9

Tips for Making Wing & Stab Skins.............10

Build the Elevators.......................................12

Build the Fin.................................................14

Build the Rudder..........................................15

BUILD THE WING........................................16

Build the Center Section..............................16

Build Outer Wing Panels .............................18

Prepare the Polyhedral Braces....................20

Join the Wing Panels...................................21

Sheet the Bottom of the Wing......................22

Prepare the Wing Panels for the Flaps........24

Sheet the Top of the Wing ...........................24

Wing Completion.........................................25

Build the Flaps.............................................27

Fit the Flaps.................................................27

BUILD THE FUSELAGE..............................28

Build the Fuselage Bottom Frame...............28

Sheet the Fuselage Bottom Frame..............31

Fuel Proof and Paint the interior..................33

Install Pushrods and Servos........................33

Frame the Fuselage Top..............................33

Install Nose Gear Steering ..........................35

Install the Engine and Tank .........................36

1.20 Engine Servo Option ...........................37

Attach the Stab and Fin...............................37

Tips for Silver Soldering ..............................39

Complete the Fuse Top ...............................39

Mount the Wing to the Fuselage..................41

HINGE THE CONTROL SURFACES...........42

Hinge the Elevator, Rudder & Ailerons........42

FUSELAGE FINISHING TOUCHES ............43

Assemble the Cowl......................................44

Fit the Cowl to the Fuse and Engine ...........44

Assemble and Install Wheel Pants..............45

Install Wing Struts and Fairings...................47

FINISHING ...................................................47

Final Sanding...............................................47

Fuel Proofing...............................................47

Balance the Airplane Laterally.....................47

Cover the Structure with MonoKote

®

...........48

Painting........................................................49

Draw Door and Hatch Outlines....................49

Apply the Decals..........................................49

Cockpit Finishing.........................................50

Install Control Surface Corrugations............50

FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS...............51

Flap and Aileron Control Hookup ................51

Install Receiver, Battery, and Antenna.........51

Control Surface Throws...............................52

Balance your Model.....................................52

PRE-FLIGHT................................................53

AMA SAFETY CODE...................................54

FLYING.........................................................54

Balance the Propeller..................................54

Takeoff.........................................................55

Flying...........................................................55

Landing........................................................55

TWO-VIEW DRAWING.................Back Cover

2

TABLE OF CONTENTS AND BUILDING SEQUENCE

Your Cessna 182 Skylane is not a toy, but

rather a sophisticated, working model that func-

tions very much like an actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance, the

Skylane, if not assembled and operated correct-

ly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or

spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience

totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get

experienced, knowledgeable help with

assembly and during your first flights. You’ll

learn faster and avoid risking your model before

you’re truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop

has information about flying clubs in your area

whose membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of

Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than

2,500 chartered clubs across the country.

Instructor training programs and insured newcom-

er training are availab le through an y one of them.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free

phone number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

[phone]

Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite

GOLD

EDITION

Cessna 182 Skylane.

The Top Flite 182 Skylane makes an excel-

lent sport scale competition aircraft. Its large

size and accurate scale outline afford the oppor-

tunity for the scale builder to

go all out

with the

surface details and finish. With the abundance of

Cessna 182s in airpor ts around the world, find-

ing a full-scale plane to document and duplicate

for competition shouldn’t present a problem.

The Top Flite Cessna 182 has demonstrated

flight characteristics rarely found in any scale

model. Anyone who has mastered a trainer with

ailerons should be able to fly this model

with a high level of proficiency from the first

flight. It handles very much like a full-size

Cessna—

smooth and predictable

. Our 11 pound

prototype was flown with an O. S. .61SF

2-stroke and 12 x 6 prop throughout much of its

flight testing. This combination provided more

than ample power for all normal flight maneuvers

and aerobatics.

Because of its 81” wingspan, the Top Flite

Cessna 182 is eligible to be entered at IMAA*

events. In order to be IMAA

-legal,

some of the

control components and hardware may need to

be replaced to conform to Giant Scale rules

even though

this

model does not require heavy

duty hookups.

The cockpit interior has been engineered to

be free of obstructions, servos and pushrods.

This feature provides the modeler with the space

to build a scale interior with front and rear seats,

baggage compartment, and full figure pilot.

Simulated Fowler Flaps allow beautifully slow

approaches and landings. Half flap takeoffs

require less ground roll to rotate and allow a fair-

ly steep climb over obstacles.

The nose of this model has been engineered

to allow you to completely hide most 2-stroke

engines in the recommended range. A Top Flite

2-stroke muffler with headers to fit several of the

recommended engines have been specifically

designed for and tested in the Skylane and other

Top Flite models. This muffler provides good

sound reduction while fitting entirely inside the

cowling. More information on the recommended

engines and related items can be found in the

Engine Selection Section

on page 4.

* IMAA is the

International Miniature Aircraft

Association

, an organization that promotes

non-competitive flying of giant scale models.

IMAA

International Miniature Aircraft Association

205 S. Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

Please inspect all parts carefully before

starting to build! If any parts are missing,

broken or defective, or if you have any ques-

tions about building or flying this model,

please call us at [phone] and we’ll be

glad to help. If you are calling for replace-

ment parts, please look up the part numbers

and the kit identification number (stamped

on the end of the carton) and have them

ready when calling.

INTRODUCTION

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS –

FOLLOW THIS IMPOR-

TANT

SAFETY PRECAUTION

3

1. You must build the plane according to the

plans and instructions. Do not alter or modify

the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe

or unflyable model. In a few cases the plans

and instructions may differ slightly from the

photos. In those instances you should

assume the plans and written instructions

are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true and

strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in

first-class condition, a correctly-sized engine

and correct components (fuel tank, wheels,

etc.) throughout your building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other

components so that the model operates properly

on the ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model

before the first and each successive flight to

ensure that all equipment is operating, and you

must make certain that the model has remained

structurally sound. Be sure to check external

nylon clevises often and replace them if they

show signs of wear.

6. You must fly the model only with the compe-

tent help of a well experienced R/C pilot if you are

not already an experienced R/C pilot at this time.

Remember: Take your time and follow direc-

tions to end up with a well-built model that is

straight and true.

The prototype Skylane that weighed 11

pounds with all of the options, including flaps

and operational lighting, was flown with an OS

.61 SF. This engine provided excellent per-

formance and more than enough power,

even in gusty winds. Although larger engines

can be used to power this model, the extra

horsepower is not needed.

The included adjustable engine mount will

hold a range of engines from .60 2-stroke

through 1.20 4-stroke.

A special Top Flite header and muffler are

available that will fit inside your cowling. They

are primarily designed for 2-stroke engines

mounted horizontally, as used on our prototype.

Header for O.S .61SF (TOPQ7920)

Header for SuperTigre S61K & S75K

(TOPQ7925)

Muffler for above (TOPQ7916)

OPTIONAL FLAPS

This model is designed to incorporate

scale flaps; however, be assured that flaps are

optional and not necessary for an excellent

flying experience. The only difference is, with-

out flaps the takeoff roll is a little longer and

the landing speed is slightly faster.

The flaps are not difficult to assemble, but

they do require good craftsmanship if they are

to fit well. They add nicely to the model’s flight

characteristics and scale appearance while

causing no bad effects. Only slight trim correc-

tion is needed when they are used with the rec-

ommended throws. The flaps add drag and lift

to the model on landing approaches, which

gives the plane a very steady, locked-in feel.

ENGINE SELECTION

The recommended engine size range is as

follows:

.60 to .91 cu. in. 2-stroke

.90 to 1.20 cu. in. 4-stroke

The Cessna 182 Skylane will fly well with

any of the recommended engines. The

4-stroke engines and most .90 2-stroke

engines will turn a larger prop at lower rpm.

This is often desirable for scale realism. Many

.60 2-stroke engines produce about as much

horsepower as the popular .90 2-stroke

engines. Both are fine choices for the Skylane.

If you use a .60 2-stroke, a Schnuerle-por ted

engine is preferred.

DECISIONS YOU MUST

MAKE EARLY IN THE

BUILDING SEQUENCE

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can pro-

vide you with a top quality kit and great

instructions, but ultimately the quality and flya-

bility of your finished model depends on how

you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way

guarantee the performance of your completed

model, and no representations are expressed

or implied as to the performance or safety of

your completed model.

PRECAUTIONS

4

If you plan to compete with the trim scheme

shown on the box, here are a few things

to consider:

The full-size Cessna 182 “Q” Skylane,

N735PE, that was modeled for this kit is hang-

ered near Birmingham, Alabama. The 182Q ver-

sion was manufactured from 1977 through 1980.

During this time 2,540 were built. We designed

our model from Cessna’s own 1979 3-view draw-

ings for accurate scale outline.

If you plan to enter your Skylane in competi-

tion, this kit will qualify for the Sport Scale cate-

gory without any changes. Always work from

photos of a full-size aircraft when finishing your

model because that is what you will need for

judging documentation. For dimensional accura-

cy, the Top Flite Cessna 182 is exactly 1:5

1

¼

3

scale.

❏ 4 to 6 channel radio with 5 to 7 servos.

❏ Engine (see page 4)

❏ Propellers (see engine instructions for

recommended sizes).

❏ 1 or 2 Pilot figures (1/5 scale recommended)

❏ Fuel Tank (Great Planes

®

12 oz. GPMQ4105

recommended)

❏ 3-1/4” Main Wheels (2) (Dubro 325T)

❏ 2-3/4” Nose wheel (1) (Dubro 275T)

❏ (2) 3/16” Wheel Collars (Great Planes

GPMQ4308 recommended)

❏ Top Flite Super MonoKote

®

(3-4 rolls, See

Finishing

section)

❏ Paint (see

Finishing

section)

❏ 24” Silicone Fuel Tubing (Great Planes

GPMQ4131 recommended)

❏ 1/2” Latex Foam Rubber Padding (Hobbico

®

HCAQ1050 recommended)

❏ 2-1/4” Spinner

(Top Flite TOPQ5405 recommended)

Optional:

❏ Fuel Filler Valve (Great Planes GPMQ4160

recommended)

❏ (6) Large Hinge Points (for flaps) (Robart

#309 recommended)

❏ Top Flite Header & In-Cowl Muffler (See

page 4 for more information)

❏ Ram #03 Landing Lights (RAMQ2303)

❏ Ram #04 Rotating Beacon (RAMQ2304)

❏ Ram #14 Big Airplane Navigation Lights

(RAMQ2314)

❏ Robart Robostrut Nosegear (ROBQ1707) or

❏ Robart Front Wheel Strut Cover

(ROBQ2703)

We recommend Top Flite Supreme

™

CAs

and Epoxies

❏ (2) 2 oz. CA (Thin) (TOPR1003)

❏ (2) 2 oz. CA+(Medium) (TOPR1008)

❏ 1 oz. CA- (Thick) (TOPR1011)

❏ 6-Minute Epoxy (TOPR1040)

❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (TOPR1043)

❏ Titebond

®

Wood Glue (optional)

❏ Hand or Electric Drill

❏ Drill Bits: 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”,

13/64”, 1/4”, 15/64”

❏ Soldering Iron and Silver Solder

❏ Sealing Iron (Top Flite)

❏ Heat Gun (Top Flite)

❏ Hobby Saw (X-ACTO

®

Razor Saw)

❏ Hobby Knife, #11 Blades

❏ Razor Plane (Master Airscrew)

❏ Pliers

❏ Screwdrivers (Phillips and flatblade)

❏ Round file (or similar tool)

❏ T-Pins (short & long)

❏ String

❏ Straightedge with scale

SUGGESTED SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

DOCUMENTATION

Three-view drawings and photo packs of

N735PE and other Cessna 182’s are available

from:

Scale Model Research,

3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

[phone]

NOTES FOR COMPETITION

MINDED MODELERS

The flaps require one extra channel, a

Y-harness, and two standard servos. They are

a highly recommended

fun option

for those who

wish to install them. More information on the

use of the flaps may be found in the “Flying”

section.

OPERATIONAL LIGHTING

We installed an operational lighting system

for added realism and scale appearance. If you

plan to use a similar system you should route

the wiring before enclosing the wing and fin. In

lieu of installing the actual wires, string can be

taped into position for use in pulling the wires

through the structure after covering. We used

a separate servo connected to the

retract

cir-

cuit of the radio (instead of “Y-ing” into the flap

servo) to operate the landing lights. The rotat-

ing beacon and position lights were connected

to a hidden toggle switch. (See

Optional

Lighting

in the next section)

5

❏ Nylon Strapping Tape

(required for bending sheeting)

❏ Masking Tape (required for construction)

❏ Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*

❏ T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)

❏ Chalk Stick (local drug store)

❏ Waxed Paper

❏ Thin Cardstock or a File Folder

❏ Lightweight Balsa Filler, such as Hobbico

HobbyLite

™

❏ 1/4-20 and 8-32 Taps and Tap Wrench

❏ Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol (70%)

❏ Auto Body Filler (Bondo

®

or similar)

❏ Dremel

®

Moto-Tool

®

or similar (optional)

*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11”

T-Bar sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #150

and #220-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is

required for almost any sanding task. Custom

sanding blocks can be made from balsa for

sanding hard to reach spots. We also keep

some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for

finish sanding before covering.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS

BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:

Deg = Degrees

Elev = Elevator

Fuse = Fuselage

LE = Leading Edge (front)

LG = Landing Gear

Lt = Left

Ply = Plywood

Rt = Right

Stab = Stabilizer

TE = Trailing Edge (rear)

”

= Inches

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

Metric Conversion Chart

Inches x 25.4 = mm (conversion factor)

1/64” = .4 mm

1/32” = .8 mm

1/16” = 1.6 mm

3/32” = 2.4 mm

1/8” = 3.2 mm

5/32” = 4.0 mm

3/16” = 4.8 mm

1/4” = 6.4 mm

3/8” = 9.5 mm

1/2” = 12.7 mm

5/8” = 15.9 mm

3/4” = 19.0 mm

1” = 25.4 mm

2” = 50.8 mm

3” = 76.2 mm

6” = 152.4 mm

12” = 304.8 mm

18” = 457.2 mm

21” = 533.4 mm

24” = 609.6 mm

30” = 762.0 mm

36” = 914.4 mm

6

7

1/4" X 2-3/4" X 15" BALSA

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

FIN TE

STAB TE

CES6S02

STAB TE

1 REQ.

CES6F04

1/8" X 6-5/8" X 19" PLY

NOSE GEAR

DOUBLER

1/8" X 6-5/8" X 19" PLY

CES6F03

3/32" X 3" X 21" BALSA

SIDE SUPPORTS

FIREWALL

WINDOW

FRAME

CES6F02

CABIN SIDE

TOP

3/32" X 3" X 18" BALSA

HORIZONTAL STAB

RIBS “S’s”

CES6F01

1 REQ.

SERVO

TRAY

2 REQ.

2 REQ.

CABIN SIDE

BOTTOM

2 REQ.

DORSAL FIN

FORMERS

CES6F08

1/8" X 5-3/4" X 19" PLY

SADDLE

WING SADDLE BRACE

1/8" X 5-3/4" X 19" PLY

STAB

CES6F07

TANK ROOF

1/8" X 5-3/4" X 19" PLY

CES6F06

GUIDE

1/8" X 5-3/4" X 19" PLY

FIN DRILL

CES6F05

INSTRUMENT PANEL

FUSE KEEL

REINFORCEMENT

HORN

2 REQ.

1 REQ.

1 REQ.

1 REQ.

8

3/32" X 3" X 24" BALSA

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

CES6S01

1/8" X 2-3/4" X 21" BALSA

VERTICAL FIN

RIBS “V’s”

RIBS “R’s”

AFT

OUTER

SPAR

RUDDER

CES6W06

AFT

INNER SPAR

GUSSETS

2 REQ.

3/32" X 3" X 21" BALSA

CES6W05

3/32" X 3" X 30" BALSA

CES6W04

3/32" X 3" X 30" BALSA

CES6W03

3/32" X 3" X 30" BALSA

CES6W02

1/16" X 3-3/4" X 11-3/4" PLY

HATCH

HATCH

CES6W01

AILERON

FLAP

FLAP HORN

2 REQ.

1 REQ.

PANT SPACERS

MAIN WHEEL

GUSSET

FIN

PLATES

WING BOLT

GUIDE PARTS

FLAP DRILL

GUSSET

GUSSET

STAB

ELEVATOR

RIBS “E’s”

2 REQ.

2 REQ.

2 REQ.

MAIN WHEEL PANT

AXLE SUPPORT

LOWER SPAR

JOINER

JOINER

CES6W08

CES6W10

1/8" X 3-3/4" X 19" PLY

1/8" X 3-3/4" X 19" PLY

OUTER DIHEDRAL

BRACE PARTS

WING JIG

PARTS

CENTER LE

CES6W09

1/8" X 2-3/4" X 21" BALSA

JOINER (SJ)

STAB

DIHEDRAL

GAUGE

CENTER AFT SPAR

1/8" X 2-3/4" X 21" BALSA

TOP BOTTOM

COWL RING

UPPER SPAR

CES6W07

BRACE PARTS

POLYHEDRAL

2 REQ.

GUIDE PARTS

FLAP DRILL

1 REQ.

2 REQ.

1 REQ.

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans

inside-out to make them lie flat.

2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, fig-

ure out the name of each part by comparing it

with the plans and the parts list included with this

kit. Using a felt tip or ball point pen, lightly write

the part name or size on each piece to avoid

confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown

on pages 7 and 8 to identify the die-cut parts and

mark them before removing them from the

sheet. Save all scraps. If any of the die-cut parts

are difficult to punch out, do not force them!

Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby knife.

After punching out the die-cut parts, use your T-

Bar or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to

remove any die-cutting irregularities.

3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate

them into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing,

fin, stab (stabilizer), and hardware.

1. Work on a flat surface over the plans covered

with waxed paper. Refer to the plans to identify

the parts and their locations.

The plans may be

cut apart if space is a problem.

2. Punch out both sets of the die-cut 3/32” balsa

ribs S-1 through S-7. There is a jig tab on the

bottom edge of each of these ribs. If any of

these break off, carefully glue them back on with

a drop of thin CA. Lightly sand any imperfec-

tions. You may need to finish cutting the notch in

the forward portion of S-1 for the Stab Joiner

(SJ) with a knife. Use a pen to mark the exten-

sions of the bottom edge of the ribs across the

fore and aft ends of the jig tabs. These marks

will help when you trim off the jig tabs later.

3. The stab Trailing Edges (S) are die-cut from

1/4” balsa. Since some crushing may occur dur-

ing die-cutting wood of this thickness, they are

supplied slightly long and can be trimmed. True

up all edges of these pieces with a T-bar.

❏❏4. Cut the stab Leading Edges (LE’s) to

length from the 1/4” x 15” tapered balsa stock.

They should be about 1/4” longer than the length

shown on the plans for the stab LE.

❏❏5. Center the 1/2” x 5/8” x 9-3/4” balsa TE

Center Brace over the plans and pin it in place.

Use a triangle and pen to mark the inboard ends

of the Stab TE. Remove the TE Center Brace

from the building board.

❏❏6. Apply thick CA to one half of the TE

Center Brace, then align the inboard end of a

Stab TE with the reference line you just drew.

Glue the TE Center Brace in position. The TE

Center Brace must be centered on the Stab

TE. Repeat this operation for the other half of

the TE, then use long T-pins to pin the assembly

over the plans.

NOTE: Position the outboard ends of the

TE about 1/2” above the board. The TE

Center Brace should be raised about 3/8”.

(See next photo.)

Build the horizontal stabilizer

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

Zipper-top food storage bags are a handy

way to store your small parts as you sor t, iden-

tify, and separate them into sub-assemblies.

Get ready to build

9

FIN / STAB LE

❏❏7. Pin the left and right S-3 and S-6 ribs to

the building board over their locations on the

plans. Adjust the height of the Stab TE to align it

evenly with the aft edge of the ribs. Glue the ribs

to the Stab TE and to the TE Center Brace with

thin CA.

❏❏8. Align and glue all of the remaining Stab

ribs to the TE.

❏❏9. Glue the two die-cut 3/32” balsa Stab

Gussets into the junction of S-6 and the Stab

TE. The Gussets should be centered between

the top and bottom of the ribs and Stab TE. Glue

the die-cut 1/8” ply Forward Stab Brace into the

slots in the S-1 ribs and to the inside edges of

the S-2 ribs.

❏❏10. Sand one end of two shaped balsa

Stab LE’s to exactly match the angle at the cen-

ter of the Stab.

Leave the outboard ends long for

the time being.

Center the LE (vertically) on the

front of the ribs, then tack glue the Stab LE’s to

the forward edge of ribs S-1 and S-6 and to the

Forward Stab Brace (this will align the LE). Glue

the remaining ribs to the LE, checking for

straightness as you proceed.

❏❏11. Glue both S-7 ribs to the Stab LE.

❏❏12. Glue the 1/4” x 1/2” x 7/8” balsa Stab

Sub TE to the aft edge of S-7 and to the side of

S-6. Make sure that the Stab Sub TE is posi-

tioned exactly 90 degrees to S-6.

❏❏13. Tr im the Stab LE’s flush with the S-7’s.

Reinforce all of the joints with medium CA.

Sand the tips of the LE, sub TE, and TE flush

with S-7 and S-6.

❏❏14. Remove the pins, then lightly sand the

top surface of the stab frame to blend all parts

and remove any excess CA. Take care not to

change the shape of the airfoil.

HOW TO MAKE WING AND STAB SKINS

A. Wherever practical, pre-join the balsa

sheets to make a “skin” before attaching them

to the structure.

B. Many modelers like to sort the wood so they

can put the best wood with the most even

grain structure on the top of the wing and stab.

C. Make your skin larger than needed to allow

Lightly sand a bevel along the front edge of

the Stab ribs to match the sweep angle of the

LE. This will give you a better fit and a stronger

glue joint.

10

❏❏15. Make two 6”x 30” stab skin planks

from four 1/16” x 3” x 30” balsa sheets. From

these planks, cut four stab skins. See the sketch

for the proper layout on the wood. Refer to the

plans for the exact shapes and sizes, but

remember to make the skins slightly oversize.

❏❏16. Pin the stab structure to your building

surface using pins only at the tips and diagonally

under the LE & TE. Make sure that the jig tabs

are flat on the building surface. Don’t hide the

pins under the skin.

❏❏17. Use the off-cut 1/16” material from the

skin planks to make a 1” wide cross-grain strip to

fit between the S-1’s from the LE to the TE. Glue

the strip in place between the ribs, flush with the

top edge.

❏❏18. Test-fit the skins over the stab frame.

Make sure the skins meet flush at the center.

Adjust them with a sanding block if necessary.

Apply an even bead of medium or thick CA to

the upward-facing edges on one side of the

frame. Place a skin in its proper position and

press it firmly down until the glue has set.

Repeat this step for the other top skin. Trim off

the excess balsa, but save any big scraps for

use when making the elevators.

❏❏19. Remove the stab from the building board.

Tr im off the jig tabs with a sharp knife. Trim and

blend the LE and TE to the ribs as you did before.

Check all glue joints, adding glue as necessary.

❏❏20. Cut another 1” wide cross-grain strip

from 1/16” x 6” off-cut balsa sheeting and glue it

between the two S-1 ribs flush with their bottom

edges.

❏❏21. It’s important to get a good glue bond

between the stab frame and the bottom stab

skins. Apply a heavy bead of medium or thick

for misalignment. On a large surface such as

the wing, 3/8” extra is suggested.

D. To make skins, the following steps

are suggested:

1. Tr ue up the edges of the sheets with a

metal straightedge and a sharp knife or a

“T-Bar” sanding block.

2. Test-fit the sheets together to make sure

they match well.

3. METHOD “A”: Edge glue the sheets

together with thin CA, over a flat surface cov-

ered with waxed paper. A quick wipe of the

joint with a fresh paper towel will remove

excess glue and make sanding easier. Mark

the poorest surface to identify it as the “inside”

surface.

METHOD “B”: Edge glue the sheets

together with Titebond

®

wood glue. (Titebond

is easier to sand and won’t leave a ridge at the

seam, as CA is prone to do.) Smear the glue

lightly along an edge with your finger, then join

the sheets over a flat (waxed paper covered)

building board. Pin the sheets to the board to

hold them together. Wipe off any excess glue

before it dries.

4. Place the skin on a large flat surface

and sand it with a large flat sanding block and

fresh, sharp 220 paper. Use light pressure and

a brisk circular motion.

5. Tr im the perimeter of the sheet to even

things out.

11

STAB SKIN

STAB SKIN

13"12-1/8"

12-1/8"13"

3"

CA to all of the

upward facing

edges on one side

of the stab frame. Place a skin on the frame and

hold it in place with your hands until the glue

sets. Repeat this for the other bottom skin. Be

careful not to bend or twist the stab during

this step.

❏❏22. Tr im off the excess balsa from around

the perimeter of the stab. True up the ends of

the stab with a sanding block. Round the LE of

the stab to match the cross section on the plan.

❏❏1. Cut two 1/16” x 3” x 36” balsa sheets to

make four 15” long sheets. Refer to the sketch and

the elevator plans, then glue the leftover balsa

“wedges” that you cut from the stab skins to the 15”

sheets. These joined sheets will be used to make

the top and bottom Elevator skins.

❏❏2. Use the pattern on the plans to cut four

Elevator skins. Sort the skins so that the best

surfaces will be facing outward, and on the top.

❏❏3. Cover the elevator plan with waxed

paper, then pin a skin in position. Use the “tic”

marks on the plan to draw the rib locations on

the skin.

❏❏4. Draw a line along the length of the skin’s

TE 3/8” in from the edge. Remove the skin from

the building board, then holding it along the

edge of your work bench, sand a taper from the

line towards the TE so that the TE will be

approximately 1/32” thick.

❏❏5. Locate the 3/8” x 3/4” x 11-5/8” shaped

balsa Elevator LE. Draw two lines, 1/32” in from

each edge, on one side of the LE as shown in

the photo. Use the lines as a reference to taper

the top and bottom of the LE toward the elevator

TE with a T-bar sander. Proceed carefully,

checking your progress against the height of

the elevator ribs at each location.

❏❏6. Glue the LE to the inside surface of the the

elevator skin, flush with the forward edge of the

skin. Glue the 3/32” die-cut balsa ribs (E-1 through

E-7) to the skin and to the LE with thin CA.

❏❏7. Test fit a 1/2” x 1” x 1-5/8” balsa Torque

Rod block between ribs E-1 and E-2. Sand the

ends, if necessary, for a good fit. Sand a slight

angle on the forward edge of the Torque Rod

Build the elevators

12

3"

SCRAP

ELEVATOR SKIN

15"

3/8"

1/32"

block (the one that will contact the elevator’s LE)

to match the angle of the LE. Glue the Torque

Rod block in position when you are satisfied with

the fit.

❏❏8. Carefully sand the top of the Torque Rod

block flush with the taper of the ribs.

❏❏9. Mark and sand the

inside

TE of an ele-

vator skin as you did in step 4. Apply a bead of

thick CA to LE, TE, and all ribs, then glue the top

skin into position. Hold the assembly flat until the

CA cures.

❏❏10. True up all edges with a T-bar or

sanding block.

❏❏11. Test fit the Stab, Elevator, 5/8” x 7/8” x

6-1/2” shaped balsa Stab Tip, and the 5/8” x

27/32” x 1-9/16” balsa Elevator Balance Tab

together. Make any adjustments with light sand-

ing. Mark the

“break”

between the Stab and the

Elevator on the Stab Tip. Cut the Stab Tip apart

along this line.

❏❏12. Glue the forward balsa Stab Tips

in position.

❏❏13. Glue the Elevator Balance Tab flush

with the Elevator Tip. Center the Stab Tip on the

outboard end of the Elevator, before using thick

CA to glue in place. Make sure that both the

Elevator LE and TE are centered before the

CA cures.

❏❏14. Tape the elevator assembly to the Stab.

Make sure that the Stab Tip and Elevator

Balance Tab are flush along the outside edge.

There should be a 1/32”-1/16” gap between the

Elevator Balance Tab and the Stab. If not, use

your T-bar sander to correct the problem by

alternately sanding the inside edges of the

Elevator Balance Tab and the Stab.

❏❏15. When satisfied with the fit, use a razor

plane and sanding block to shape the Stab Tip

to blend with the Elevator and Stab.

❏❏16. Sand a radius around the Balance Tab

as shown in the photo.

❏❏17. Sand a radius around the outboard

edges of the Stab and Elevator Tip.

13

❏ 18. Tape the Elevators to the Stab making

sure that you have the correct clearance around

the Balance Tabs. Hold the bent 1/8” Elevator

Joiner Wire and Horn up to the Elevator and

mark the location of the Joiner Wire holes that

will be perpendicular to the hinge line (see the

plans for the joiner location).

NOTE: The Elevator Horn is off-center.

When looking at the top surface of the

Stab, the Horn will be to the right of

Stab center.

❏ 19. Drill 9/64” holes in the elevators for the

Joiner wire. Cut slots inboard of the holes to

allow the wire to be inset into the elevators, flush

with the LE. Sand the Elevator LE to a “V”

shape to allow for Elevator travel — refer to the

plans for the correct angle.

❏ 20. Test-fit, but do not glue the joiner wire into

the Elevators. Check to see that the Elevators

align with each other properly and that they fit

the Stab without binding. Make adjustments by

removing the Joiner Wire and then bending it,

if required.

❏ 1. Cover the Fin/Rudder section of the plans

with waxed paper.

❏ 2. Punch out the die-cut 3/32” balsa ribs V-1

through V-6. Be sure to preserve their jig tabs.

NOTE:

If you plan to install an operational

beacon light on top of the Fin drill a 3/16”

hole through the center (front to back, top

to bottom) of each rib. This hole will pro-

vide a passage for the wiring.

❏ 3. Cut a 15” length of the tapered 1/4” balsa

Stabilizer/Fin LE stock to match the plans

exactly, as the length of the LE sets the angle of

the fin.

Notice that the Fin LE fits into a notch on

top of F-8.

❏ 4. Punch out the die-cut 1/4” balsa Fin TE

and lightly sand the edges to touch them up.

Sand (or cut) the tips to match the sweep angle

as shown on the plans.

❏ 5. Sand an angle on the ends of each rib to

match the sweep angle of the LE and TE. Pin

ribs V-1 and V-6 to the building board over their

proper locations. Center the LE on the front of

the ribs and glue it in place. Center the Fin TE

on the aft edge of the ribs and glue it in place.

❏ 6. Put r ibs V-2 through V-5 into their places

and glue them to the LE and TE. Remember, all

jig tabs should contact the work surface.

❏ 7. Glue the die-cut 3/32” balsa Fin Gusset

into the corner of V-6 and the Trailing Edge.

❏ 8. Apply extra CA+ glue to any joints that do

not appear to be well glued.

❏ 9. Blend the LE to match the ribs on the

upward facing (left) fin side. Sand the TE, if nec-

essary, to blend smoothly with the ribs.

❏ 10. Make a skin for each side of the fin using

1/16” x 3” x 30” balsa sheet. Leave excess balsa

on one edge of the skin so it overhangs past

V-1 about 5/8”; this will allow fitting to the stab

later. With the structure flat on the table, glue on

the left (upward-facing) skin.

Build the fin

14

FIN SKIN

3"

30"

❏ 11. Remove the fin from the building board

and trim off the jig tabs. Blend the LE and TE to

the ribs on the right side of the fin.

NOTE:

If you plan to route wiring for a bea-

con through the fin, install a 15” length of

outer pushrod tube (not supplied) through

the 3/16” holes you drilled in step #2. Glue it

in position with medium CA, leaving the

excess tube protruding from V-1.

❏ 12. Use medium or thick CA to glue on the

right side skin. Be sure to get a good bond

between the ribs and the skin.

❏ 13. True up the edges of the fin sheeting with

a sanding block. Shape the LE to match the

cross section on the plans. Don’t trim the bottom

edge of the sheeting at this time.

❏ 14. Glue the shaped 3/4” balsa Fin Tip to the

top of the fin. Shaping should be done later, with

the fin taped to the rudder.

NOTE:

If adding a beacon light, drill a hole

through the top of the Fin Tip that aligns with

the wiring tube before you glue it in place.

❏ 1. Use one 1/16” x 3” x 30 balsa sheet to

make two rudder skins, using the rudder skin

pattern on the wing plan. You will need to edge

glue a small wedge shaped piece of sheeting to

the TE of the skin to provide the correct width.

You should have more than enough material left

over from the previous assemblies to accomplish

this step.

❏ 2. Pin one of the rudder skins to the (wax

paper covered) plans and draw the location of

each rib using the “tic” marks as a guide. Draw a

line the length of the rudder skin, 3/8” in from the

aft edge, as you did with the elevators. Remove

the rudder skin from the board and taper the aft

edge to 1/32”. Taper the aft edge of the other

rudder skin to 1/32”. (See next photo.)

❏ 3. Locate the 3/8” x 3/4” x 12” tapered balsa

rudder LE. Cut the tips to match the sweep

angle of the rudder. Lightly sand both sides of

the rudder LE to match the angle toward the aft

edge of the rudder.

❏ 4. Re-pin the rudder skin over the plans. Glue

the rudder LE to the surface of the rudder skin,

flush with the front edge, using medium CA. The

wide end of the rudder LE is at the bottom end

of the rudder.

❏ 5. Slightly taper the forward edge of the rudder

ribs R-1 through R-6 to match the sweep angle of

the rudder LE, then glue them in position over

the location lines that you drew in step #2.

❏ 6. Shape one end of the 1/4” x 1/2” x 1-1/4”

balsa rudder Torque Block to match the angle

at the intersection of the rudder LE and R-1.

Glue the Torque Block in position when satisfied

with the fit.

❏ 7. Remo v e the rudder assembly from the board,

then lightly sand the frame to blend all joints. Glue

the second rudder skin to the frame with thick CA.

To prevent twists, be sure that the assembly is held

on a flat surface while the CA cures.

Build the rudder

15

EXCESS

30"

3"

❏8. True up all rudder edges with a sanding b lock.

❏ 9. Position the rudder against the TE of the fin

with the top of the rudder 1/32” above the top

of the main body of the fin. Tape the fin and

rudder securely together with masking tape.

NOTE: Before proceeding, study the photo

at step 15 to see what you will accomplish

in the next six steps.

❏ 10. Test fit the 3/4” shaped balsa Rudder Tip

on top of the rudder. It should butt against the

Fin Tip squarely, and have a clearance gap of

1/32” above the fin. Make adjustments with a

sanding block if needed.

❏ 11. Use thick CA to glue the Rudder Tip to the

rudder. Be sure that everything is centered

before the CA cures.

❏ 12. Draw a center reference line across the

top of the rudder and fin blocks. A piece of

masking tape stretched across the center of the

blocks will help you draw a fairly straight line.

❏ 13. Use a razor plane and sanding block to

shape the top of the fin and rudder. For scale

realism, the Rudder Tip should be slightly

wider than the rudder. Apply 4 layers of masking

tape to each side of the rudder to prevent you

from removing too much material. The Fin Tip

may be sanded flush with the fin. Round off the

top 3/8” of both the Fin and Rudder Tips. When

the top is shaped and sanded, remove all mask-

ing tape.

❏ 14. Draw a centerline on the rudder’s LE.

Sand a “V” bevel along this line with reference to

the plans for the correct angle. Hinging and

installation of the torque rod will come later in

the assembly process.

❏ 15. Sand a radius around the forward edge of

the Rudder Tip. Hold the fin and rudder together

to check the clearance between the Rudder Tip

and the Fin Tip. Continue sanding the Rudder

Tip radius until there is a 1/32” gap between the

two parts.

Okay, the tail feathers are more or less com-

plete, so by now you are on a roll. The stab

looks like the wing for a .20-size model, doesn’t

it? We’ll build the wing next so you’ll really have

something to impress your buddies when they

drop in to see “how the ol’ Cessna is doing.”

NOTE: The wing panels are built “UPSIDE-

DOWN” on the plans. The jig tabs are

attached to what is, in the end, the TOP sur-

face of the wing. Since it is the standard con-

vention to show the Top View of the wing,

and the wing panels are built upside-down,

the LEFT wing panel is built over the RIGHT

Wing Top View and vice-versa. This does not

present any problems — just be sure to build

a left and a right wing.

❏ 1. Punch out all the die-cut 3/32” and 1/8”

balsa wing Ribs. Smooth out any imperfections

with sandpaper. Be sure to keep the jig tabs

attached to the ribs.

❏ 2. Punch out the 1/8” ply Doublers and Wing

Bolt Plates.

Build the center section

BUILD THE WING

16

❏ 3. Lay out both sets of balsa Ribs W-2 and W-

3, ply Doublers W-2B and W-2C, and the ply

Wing Bolt Plates exactly as shown in the photo.

This way you won’t assemble two right or two left

sides.

Glue the Doublers to the Ribs and laminate

the two pairs of Wing Bolt Plates with

30-Minute Epoxy. After the epoxy has cured, test

fit the Wing Bolt Plates into the slots at the aft end

of W-2 and W-3. Make slight adjustments to the

slots if required, but don’t make the fit too loose

as this is a critical area for a nice tight bond.

❏ 4. Attach the wing plan (the part showing the

center section) to a flat building board and cover

it with waxed paper.

Cutting apart the wing panel

sections of the plan makes handling easier.

❏ 5. Locate the 3/8” x 3/8” x 20” basswood

Center Spar. Cut two 9-1/4” pieces from it. Pin

one of the 3/8” x 3/8” x 9-1/4” basswood Center

Spars to the plan using the method shown in the

sketch. The Center Spar is a little longer than

actually needed to allow for the dihedral angle at

W-3. It will be trimmed to size later.

❏ 6. Position rib W-1 and rib assemblies W-2

and W-3 on the Center Spar with the jig tabs

touching the plan. Be sure that the ply doublers

are facing the correct direction.

❏ 7. Insert (without gluing) the die-cut 1/8” balsa

Center Aft Spar into the slots above the jig tabs.

Insert the second basswood Center Spar into

the forward rib notches. Make sure that both

Spars are flush with the upper edge of the ribs.

❏ 8. Interlock the 1/8” die-cut ply Center LE with

the tabs on the LE of ribs W-3 and W-1.

❏ 9. Study the structure. Are all parts over their

respective locations on the plans and in align-

ment? If not, lightly use fine grit sandpaper to

adjust the fit.

Don’t reach for the CA yet!

❏ 10. Make sure the W-3 ribs are flush with the

Aft Spar and the Center LE. Use the 1/8” die-cut

ply Dihedral Gauge on the inside of the W-3

ribs at the forward Spars to set the ribs angle at

this location. Hold a straightedge alongside the

W-3’s to check for straightness.

❏ 11. When you are sure that everything is

straight and true (sight down the TE and shim

any low ribs with folded paper under the jig tabs)

wick thin CA into every joint. Hold the LE and

W-3’s in tight contact for a few seconds to allow

the CA to work. Follow the initial gluing by apply-

ing a fillet of medium CA around the joints.

Isn’t interlocking construction great?!

NOTE: Do not use any CA until step 11.

17

❏ 12. Check the fit of the 1/4” x 1-7/8” Dowels

and the Wing Bolt Plates. Mix up a small batch of

6-Minute Epoxy, then glue these parts in position.

NOTE: The Wing Bolt Plates must be flush

with the outside surface of the W-3’s.

❏ 13. Trim and sand only the basswood Center

Spar ends flush with the W-3’s. Be sure to leave

the

tips

of the Center Aft Spar and the Center

LE in place as they will be used when joining

the center section to the outer wing panels.

❏ 14. Cut a 9-1/4” length from a 3/32” x 1/2” x

30” tapered balsa TE stick. Look at the cross

section on the fuse plan for the angle of the TE.

Center the TE on the aft edge of the center sec-

tion ribs, then glue it in place with thin CA.

Carefully sand the ends flush with the W-3’s.

❏ 15. Trim four of the pre-cut 1/16” x 2-3/4” x 1-

1/2” Shear Webs to fit between the W-1 and W-

2 ribs at the forward Center Spars. Glue the

Shear Webs to both sides of the Center Spars

with medium CA

This completes the wing center section frame,

so, zipping right along, let’s move on to the outer

wing panels.

HINT: You will speed up the building process if

you prepare two “wing panel kits” before you

start gluing. We also suggest that you assemble

all four spars even though you may only be

building one half of the wing at a time.

❏ 1. Place a wing panel plan on your building

board and cover it with waxed paper.

❏❏2. Cut four 1/8” x 3/8” x 24” hard balsa

Outer Spar Doublers to 22-3/4”. Sand a chisel

point on one end of each piece starting 2” from

the end.

❏❏3. Use medium CA to glue the Outer Spar

Doublers to the 1/4” x 3/8” x 36” balsa Outer

Spars. The un-tapered end of the Outer Spar

Doubler must be flush with one end of the

Outer Spar.

❏❏4. Pin an Outer Spar assembly to the

building board at three or four locations using

the cross-pinning technique.

NOTE: Do not

apply glue to Ribs until Step 7.

❏❏5. Position the die-cut 3/32” balsa ribs W-4

through W-14 on the spar. These should be ver-

tical and aligned over their appropriate locations

as indicated on the plans.

The jig tabs located

near the aft end of the ribs should all contact

the work surface.

Build outer wing panels

18

SPAR DOUBLER

OUTER SPAR

2"

WING TE

❏❏6. NOTE: Complete this step only if

you’re adding operational flaps. Slide two lay-

ers of waxed paper between ribs W-6 and W-7

from the TE to just forward of the Aft Inner Spar

notch. The waxed paper will help prevent the

ribs from sticking together when you cut the

Flaps free later on.

❏❏7. Fit the die-cut 1/8” balsa Aft Inner Spar

and Aft Outer Spar into the aft notches of r ibs

W-4 through W-6 and W-7 through W-14 respec-

tively. The upward facing edge of the Aft Inner

Spar protrudes above the ribs. Make a mental

note of the protruding angle, then, after remov-

ing the Aft Inner Spar from the frame, sand a

bevel on this edge so that it will be flush with the

ribs.

Although you could sand it in place, you

would run the risk of deforming the wing ribs.

❏❏8. Sight down the TE of the wing from the

root end making sure all ribs are aligned. Use

paper to shim under the jig tabs of any ribs that

are low.

❏❏9. Check that the upward-facing edges of

the ribs and the top surface of the Aft Spars are

even and that all of the jig tabs are touching the

work surface or shims. When everything is

aligned, wick thin CA into all joints. Wick thin CA

into all seams around the mating surfaces of

W-6 and W-7.

❏❏10. Place part A and B of the 1/8” die-cut

ply Outer Dihedral Braces over the pattern on

the plan and mark the indicated reference line

on both long edges of each piece.

NOTE: Both parts are slightly narrower at

one end. Use 6-Minute Epoxy to glue the

parts together as shown in the photo. Be

sure to make one left and one right set.

❏❏11. Use a razor saw to cut a 1/4” wide slot

from the upper forward Spar notch down to the

lower Spar through ribs W-6 and W-7. Insert the

Outer Dihedral Brace into the slot you just cut

with the narrow end toward the wing tip and the

short por tion of the assembly facing the leading

edge. The angled edge should be facing upward

between ribs W-7 and W-8. Don’t glue it in

place yet, but leave it in position.

❏❏12. Hold the upper Outer Spar in position

on the ribs, with the inboard end flush with W-4.

Mark the Spar at the seam between ribs W-6

and W-7. Score the inside of the spar two thirds

of the way through with a razor saw.

The

inside

is the side with the tapered 1/8” Outer

Spar Doubler.

❏❏13. Press the upper Outer Spar into the

wing notches and check for a flush fit at each rib.

When satisfied, remove the Outer Spar, then use

30-Minute Epoxy to glue the Outer Dihedral

Brace in position. Apply a bead of epoxy to the

upper edge of the Outer Dihedral Brace, and,

before the epoxy cures, install the Outer Spar

Assembly and glue it to all the ribs with thin CA.

NOTE: Work some epoxy into the the saw-

cut before laying the Spar in place.

❏❏14. Cut four 3-1/8” long Servo Hatch Rails

from 1/4” x 3/8” x 30” balsa. Glue two of these

pieces into the notches in ribs W-4 and W-5 and

two between ribs W-7 and W-8. These will sup-

port the flap and aileron servo hatches. Install

19

the rails even if you don’t plan to add flaps, as

they add a little extra strength and fill in

the notches.

❏❏15. Glue the 1/8” die-cut Gusset G-3 to the

Aft Outer Spar and W-7, as shown on the plans.

❏❏16. Hold the 36” shaped balsa LE up to the

wing and mark it at W-7. Cut three quarters of

the way through the LE (from the flat side) with a

razor saw to allow it to flex at W-7. Center the

LE vertically on the ribs, then tack glue it in

position at W-4, W-7 and W-14. Sight down the

LE from both ends to check that all of the ribs

are centered and that the frame isn’t curved or

twisted. Once again, be sure that all the jig tabs

are firmly on the building board, then perma-

nently glue the LE to all of the ribs.

❏❏17. Cut the tapered 30” balsa Flap Spar to

fit from W-4 to W-7 then glue it into the “V”

notches just behind the aft Inner Spar.

❏❏18. Center a 1/2” x 15” tapered balsa TE on

the aft edge of W-4 and the last W-6, then glue it

in position to only W-4 and W-6. Lay a straight-

edge across the aft end of the ribs to check that

all ribs are aligned and level and that the TE is

straight. When everything looks good, glue all

the remaining ribs to the TE, centering each rib

as you proceed.

❏❏19. Glue the die-cut 1/8” balsa gussets G1

and G2 in position, as shown on the plans.

❏❏20. Trim the excess material from the

Spars, LE, TE, etc., and sand all ends flush.

Reinforce all joints that still need extra glue by

adding medium CA.

❏❏21. Refer to the plan for the location of the

single and double 1/16” x 2-3/4” x 1-1/2” balsa

Shear Webs. Glue the Shear Webs in position

with thick CA (Not between W-4 and W-5).

❏❏22. Locate the 1/2” x 1/2” x 6” balsa stick.

Cut six 1” lengths to use as Aileron Hinge

Blocks. Fit and glue 3 blocks where shown on

the plans. Save the other 3 for use on the sec-

ond wing panel.

Well, that about wraps up the framing for half of

the wing. Take a short break to admire your

handiwork, have a cup of coffee, clean the CA off

your fingers, and kiss your spouse good night.

When you’re fully revived, clean the sawdust off

your bench, swap the plan sheets, and get busy

building the other half. You can rest later.

❏❏1. Position the three 1/8” ply parts of the

Polyhedral Braces over the sketch on the

plans. Look carefully at each piece and you will

notice that they form a slight “V” shape, with one

end longer than the other. After you align each

piece over the drawing, mark an index line on

each part as shown, then extend it around to

both edges.

❏❏2. Without gluing, stack the three pieces

together and compare the assembly with the

photo and the plans. Repeat this process with

the second set of braces,

but this time flip the

pieces end-for-end

when you stack them.

Prepare the polyhedral braces

20

FLAP SPAR

You should now have a right hand and a left

hand set of Polyhedral Braces, as shown in the

photo.

Tracing around the edges of the two

shorter par ts will help alignment when you glue

them together.

❏❏3. When satisfied that the braces are

accurate, use 6-Minute Epoxy to glue the parts

together with the alignment marks perfectly

aligned.

❏❏1. Carefully remove a 3/8”-wide strip of balsa

from between the spars on both the W-3 ribs of

the Center Section and the W-4 ribs of the outer

panels. This will allow the Polyhedral Braces to be

inserted and glued between the spars.

❏❏2. Test fit (but don’t glue) the Polyhedral

braces into the center and outboard wing panels.

The longer end of the joiner is the end that

plugs into the outboard panels. Sand the

ends, if necessary, for a good fit. The wing

panels should mate evenly along the joint

without any unnecessary twisting or bending to

line things up. If you have to force the panels to

fit, locate the problem and fix it before

proceeding. Any twists will become a permanent

part of the structure after the panels are joined

and will be difficult to correct.

❏❏3. Use only a spot of CA to glue the two

1/4” x 1-1/16 “ x 5-7/8” balsa Wing Jig Blocks

to the W-2 jig tabs and the top of the spar.

Now for the hard part — cleaning a space on

your work bench large enough to spread out and

join the wing.

IMPORTANT: Check your work surface with

a metal straightedge to make sure that it’s

perfectly flat before proceeding. Make a

“dry run” of the following step before

actually performing it with glue.

❏❏4. Place the Center panel on the Jig Blocks

in the middle of your work bench. Add some

weight to hold it in place (a few magazines or

small sandbags are handy for this). Prepare 1/2

ounce of 30-Minute Epoxy. Liberally apply

epoxy to the W-3 Ribs, the Polyhedral

Braces,and the spar ends.

(If you will be

installing Flaps, don’t put epoxy on the “Flap”

portion of the ribs. Inser t waxed paper between

W-3 and W-4 at the flaps.)

Plug the Polyhedral

Braces into the Outboard Wing Panels. Plug

the Outboard Wing Panels into the Center

Section and align the Ribs for a flush fit. The

protruding Center Section LE and Aft Center

Spar tabs will help with alignment. Once all the

panels are in position, clamp the ribs together

and center the Polyhedral Braces between the

Spars as shown on the top view of the plans.

Put weights on the two W-14 ribs to hold the

jig tabs and spars on the work surface. Before

the epoxy

kicks off

, double check your work.

IMPORTANT: Make certain that both the upper

and lower Spars touch their mates on the

adjoining panel. If, after all your effor ts, you end

up with a small gap, pack epo xy into the ca vity.

❏❏5. Use a razor saw to cut a 1/6” wide x 3/8”

deep slot on both sides of the bottom spars at

W-3.

Remember, the wing is upside down on the

bench so the bottom spars are presently on

the “top.”

Join the wing panels

21

❏❏6. Test fit the 1/16” die-cut ply bottom Spar

Joiner in the slots. Just like the Polyhedral

Braces, the Spar Joiners have one end that is

longer than the other. The longer end points

towards the wing tip. Equally sand the ends if

needed for a good fit between the ribs. Use 6-

minute or 30-Minute Epoxy to glue the Spar

Joiners in position.

Clothes pins make handy

clamps while the epoxy cures.

❏❏7. Tur n the wing over and repeat the

process of installing the Spar Joiners on the top

wing spars.

Our suggested wing sheeting process allows

you to sheet each of the wing panels with one

skin per side — plus a little extra for the flaps.

This technique is better than sheeting the wing

with individual sheets, and allows you to

pre-

sand

all of the seams that will be over open

structure.

All balsa sheeting will usually bend when it’s cut

from the log since internal stresses are relieved.

For the best results, trim the edges of the wing

sheeting with a long metal straightedge and a

sharp knife before joining them. You may also

try turning the sheets different ways to see if the

edges will line up evenly. If the bend is only

slight, use 150-grit sandpaper on a long sanding

block to smooth out the curvature. For more

information on making wing skins refer back

to page 10 for the

Hot Tip.

NOTE: Do the following steps for both the

right and left wing panels.

❏ 1. Sor t through the remaining 1/16” x 3” x 36”

balsa sheets and pick out the 6 best sheets to

be used for the top surfaces of the outboard

wing panels. Pick the best three sheets from the

1/16” x 3” x 21” sheeting to use for the top

Center Section skin

❏ 2. Lay waxed paper over a flat, smooth

work surface.

❏ 3. Make four outboard wing skins by edge

gluing three 1/16” x 3” x 36” balsa wing sheets

together to make (four) 9” x 36” skins. Make one

center section skin using four sheets of 1/16” x

3” x 21” balsa. This skin will be cut in half after

sanding to make two 12” x 10-1/2” skins. Refer

to page 10 for tips on making skins.

NOTE: When sheeting, be sure that the

wing is resting squarely on the center

section Jig Blocks, weighted down on a flat

surface, and that the W-14 jig tabs are in

solid contact with the building surface.

❏ 4. Hold a 1/16” x 12” x 10-1/2” center section

skin on the bottom surface of the wing with one

edge butted up to the LE. Mark the perimeter of

the skin. The side edges of the skin should be

centered on the joint between ribs W-3 and W-

4. Cut the skin close to the correct size then

sand it for an exact fit.

❏ 5. Glue the center skin in position using

medium or thick CA. Hold the skin in contact

with the frame until the glue has cured.

❏❏6. Fit one of the 9” x 36” skins in place on

an outboard wing panel, with one long edge

butted tightly against the inner LE. The inboard

edge should overlap the center section. Tape the

skin in place. With a flexible ruler, mark the edge

that mates with the center panel. Flip the wing

over and mark the tip and TE from the back side.

Allow an extra 1/4” around these two edges

.

Remove the skin and cut it to the marked size. If

necessary, use 220 grit sandpaper to

fine tune

the inboard edge for an exact fit.

The photo at

step #9 shows approximately what your sheet

should look like when it’s trimmed.

Sheet the bottom of the wing

22

❏❏7. Working quickly, apply a bead of thick

CA to the structure that the skin will touch. Don't

glue hatch rails yet. Apply glue to the Spar last.

Position the skin over the frame, then press it

into place. Important: Before the CA kicks off,

weight down the center panel and the TE of the

wing at W-14 to set the washout angle. Repeat

steps 6 and 7 for the other outer wing panel.

❏❏8. After the CA has cured, turn the wing

over and apply a bead of thick CA to the inside

of the LE / Skin junction and any other areas

that need a little extra glue.

❏❏9. Cut two 14-1/2” pieces from a 1/16” x 3”

x 36” balsa sheet. Save the off-cut piece for use

in a few minutes. Cut the 14-1/2” sheets to the fit

the uncovered area of the flaps. Use a leftover

piece of 1/16” balsa sheeting to make two

triangular pieces to fill in remaining un-sheeted

area.

❏❏10. Tur n the wing over and place it on foam

rubber or a soft surface to avoid premature

hangar rash.

NOTE: if you are not installing flaps, don’t

mark or cut the two inboard openings.

❏❏11. Use a sharpened piece of wire or long

T-pin to bore small holes through the skin from

the inside to mark the location of the flap and

aileron servo hatches.

❏❏12. Rough cut the hatch openings on the

inside of your guide holes, then use a 1/16” ply

Hatch Cover to mark and cut the full size

opening.

Remember, it’s faster to enlarge a hole

that’s too small than to shrink one that’s oversize.

After enlarging holes, use thin CA to glue the

skin to the hatch rails.

❏❏13. Use a sharpened piece of wire to bore

through the exposed side of the Wing Bolt plate

to mark the holes in the bottom wing skin for the

wing bolts. Mark these holes now, as it will be

difficult to find the location after the top wing skin

is applied. To avoid splitting the balsa, bore the

holes in the skin with a grinding stone and moto-

tool rather than going through with a drill.

❏❏14. You can simplify the job of “fishing” the

servo wires through the enclosed wing with a

little preparation. Tape one end of a 30” length of

string to the inside of the wing sheeting just past

the aileron servo hatch opening. Thread the

string through the lightening holes in the ribs into

the center section. Bore a 1/2” hole for the servo

leads to exit through the bottom of the wing.

Secure the string next to the hole with another

piece of tape. Repeat this procedure for the

other wing panel. When the time comes to

thread the servo wires, just tie them to the string

from the hatch end and pull them through to the

center compartment exit hole.

If you plan to install navigation lights on the wing

tips, use the string technique described in the

The best balsa filler is no balsa filler! Take

your time fitting all sheeting and skins in place.

With a little bit of careful sanding you will be

rewarded with perfectly matched joints and a

lighter, stronger airframe.

23

previous step, or glue two large-diameter

pushrod tubes (not supplied) inside the wing,

ahead of the spars, to serve as a conduit for

the wires.

❏❏15. Glue the 1/2” x 1/2” x 1” basswood

Wing Strut Mount Block to the inboard side of

the W-6 rib and to the sheeting at the location

shown on the plans. We recommend

6-Minute Epoxy for this job. To help locate the

blocks later, drill a 1/16” hole through the center

of the blocks, out through the bottom sheeting.

❏❏16. True all edges with a sanding block.

Mark the location of the Aileron Hinge Blocks on

the outside edge of the aft Outer Spar.

❏❏17. Carefully cut off all of the jig tabs on the

top surface of the wing. Lightly sand the tops of

the ribs and spars. Clean up any glue blobs that

will interfere with the top sheeting, then double

check your work.

If you aren’t installing operational flaps (the neat

looking, highly effective, simulated Fowler Flaps)

skip the next section and proceed to “Sheet

The Top Of The Wing”. Are you sure you

won’t reconsider?

NOTE: This kit includes a special set of

wing jigs to hold the wing at the proper

washout angle (2 degrees washout at each

tip) while you apply the top skins. Twisted

wings are a major cause of bad flight

characteristics. Polyhedral angles can vary

slightly, so if your tip jigs require

adjustment, just be sure that both tip jigs

are modified the same, and are therefore

identical. Be careful not to change the

washout angle (the negative angle of attack

of the tip ribs) if you adjust the jigs.

❏❏1. Locate all of the 1/8” die-cut ply wing jigs

as shown in the photo. Assemble the two parts

of both TE Jigs as shown.

Sheet the top of the wing

❏❏3. Tur n the wing over, then carefully cut

away the balsa sheeting from between the

marks. Don’t cut through the ribs until the top

of the wing has been sheeted and you are

instructed to do so.

That’s all you need to do for now regarding the

flaps. Let’s move on and put the skins on the

top of the wing.

❏❏2. Mark the location for the Flap LE by

inserting a sharpened wire through the

sheeting at the locations shown in the photo.

❏❏1. Cut the shaped 5/8” x 9” balsa Flap

Hinge Block into four pieces 1-1/2” long, and

two pieces 1” long. Glue the blocks to the aft

Inner Spar, sheeting, and ribs as shown on

the plans.

Do the following steps if you are building

operational flaps.

Even though building operational flaps requires

a little bit of patience and elbow grease, you

will be rewarded by more scale appearance

and slower landings than the less ambitious

modeler. If that isn’t enough, they look great

during slow fly-bys and shorten the takeoff roll.

Prepare the wing panels

for the flaps

24

❏❏2. Slide the die-cut 1/8” ply LE Jigs over

the dowels, with the flat edge towards the

sheeted (bottom) side of the wing.

❏❏3. Tack glue the die-cut 1/8” ply TE Jigs to

the sheeting at the TE of W-3.

❏❏4. Place a die-cut 1/8” plywood Tip Jig

under each W-14 rib with the raised tip of the jig

butting up to the TE spar. Tack glue it in place.

NOTE: Use the same procedure to sheet the

top of the wing as you used for the bottom.

❏❏5. Cut the top Center Panel Skin from the

skin you made earlier. Remember that it should

line up with the dividing line between ribs W-3

and W-4. When satisfied with the fit, glue it in

place with thick CA.

❏❏6. Check the fit of an outboard skin to the

wing structure. Make adjustments if required to

fit flush with the LE and Center Panel. Sand a

slight bevel to the edge of the skin that will

contact the LE to allow for a better gluing

surface. Use thick CA to glue the skin in

position. Hold the skin firmly in place while the

CA cures.

Magazines make good weights.

Wick

thin CA along the LE seam, wiping off any

excess CA before it hardens.

❏❏7. Repeat step 6 for the other outer panel.

❏❏8. Measure, cut and glue a 1/16” x 3” x 36”

balsa sheet to fit over the Flaps and the

openings at the aft edge of the wing skins, as

you did for the bottom of the wing.

At this point you should have the main wing

structure fully sheeted. You may now remove all

Jig parts from the wing and sand off any

glue marks.

❏❏1. Tr im the sheeting where it protr udes past

the edge of the structure.

❏❏2. Sand the wing Leading Edge until it

blends well with the sheeting to form a

smooth airfoil.

❏❏3. Square off the wing tips with a T-bar.

❏❏4. Use a pointed piece of wire to mark the

holes for the wing bolts from the bottom,

through the top wing skin. Use a hobby knife to

carefully cut a 1/4” hole in the sheeting around

the points you marked. Insert one of the 1/4”

nylon wing bolts through the wing from the top,

and trace around the head with a pen. Enlarge

the holes to the circles you just drew to allow the

wing mounting bolts to seat against the wing

mounting plates. Use a round file or Moto-Tool

and grinding drum to avoid tearing the sheeting.

IMPORTANT: The Ailerons must be fitted to

the wing and the hinge bevels sanded

before installing the wing tips or cutting the

flaps loose.

❏❏5. Tape a tapered 2-3/32” x 21” balsa

Aileron to the Outer Aft Spar with one end

against W-7.

Don’t be alarmed if the Aileron TE

is higher than the TE at W-7; this will be taken

care of when the aileron LE is tapered.

Draw a

line on the Aileron, parallel to the edge of W-7.

Remove the Aileron, then cut and sand it to this

line. Check the fit and make any minor

corrections as needed.

WING COMPLETION

Glue a piece of scrap ply to the side of the jig

and also to the W-14 ribs (as shown here) to

prevent the jig from moving or having to glue it

to the sheeting.

25

❏❏6. Tape the Aileron back into position. Mark

the tip end with a straightedge placed along W-

14. Draw a line 1/16” inboard of the first line.

Cut off the Aileron tip on the second (inboard)

line. By so doing the Aileron will have 1/32”

clearance on both ends when it’s installed.

❏❏7. Draw a centerline on the LE of the

Aileron. Sand a “V” shaped bevel along this

edge. Refer to the wing cross section on the

plans for the required angle.

❏❏8. Tape the Aileron securely in position

with its TE aligned with the TE at W-7.

❏❏9. Tape a shaped balsa Wing Tip in position.

It should be centered on W-14 and the aft end

should be centered on the TE of the Aileron. Trace

the airfoil onto the inside edge of the wing tip .

NOTE: Horner Tips are an option on

full-scale Cessnas. If you prefer, you may

simply carve a standard tip without the

undercamber. Draw an arc the width of the

Aileron’s TE (as shown on the plans) if you

want to carve Horner Tips. Remove the tip.

❏❏10. Use a long carving blade to carve away

most of the excess wood and rough in the shape

of the tip. To carve a Horner Tip, cut away a

wedge of balsa as shown in the photo, then use

a round sanding tool (e.g., 80-grit sandpaper

wrapped around a short piece of broom handle)

to curve the underside.

❏❏11. When the Wing Tip has been shaped

close to finished size, glue it to W-14 with

medium CA.

Don’t glue it to the Aileron

. Finish

sanding the Wing Tip with 220 grit sandpaper,

blending it with the wing sheeting and LE. Fine

tune the curved undercamber portion of the

Wing Tip with a round sanding tool and 220 grit.

The thickness of the Tip’s TE should match the

thickness of the Aileron TE.

❏❏12. Refer to the plans for the aileron horn

location. Position a die-cut 1/8” x 5/8” x 5/8” ply

Horn Reinforcement on the bottom of the

aileron at this location and score around its

perimeter with a hobby knife. Remove balsa

from within the score marks to recess the horn

reinforcement. Use thick CA to glue the horn

reinforcement in place.

❏❏13. Repeat steps 5-12 for the other

wing panel.

If you are building your wing without operational

flaps, there’s nothing left to do except fit the wing

to the cabin during final assembly. Invite your

buddies back to the shop for a progress update.

Also, your floor needs sweeping.

NOTE: If you are NOT building operational

Flaps, skip the following section and

proceed to BUILD THE FUSELAGE.

26

❏❏9. Trim off the excess balsa from the

Inner Aft Spar, then use a 3/4” dowel wrapped

with 220-grit sandpaper to sand a radius on

the protruding portions of the r ibs. Cut a 1/4” x

1/2” slot in the Inner Aft Spar to allow the Flap

Horn and Clevis to clear.

❏❏10. Reinforce the underside of the wing

sheeting (where it overhangs the aft inner spar

at the Flaps) by gluing leftover 1/16” x 1/4”

balsa strips between the ribs on the underside

of the top sheeting. Sand a bevel along this

edge to allow the flap to clear when it’s in the

up

position.

Fit the flaps

❏❏1. Use a T-bar to true-up the aft edge of

the wing sheeting in the flap section.

❏❏7. Shape the Flap LE to match the cross

section on the plans. A razor plane, whittling

knife, and coarse sandpaper help the job go

quickly. The die-cut 1/8” ply Flap Hinge Drill

Guide may be used to test the curvature of the

LE (

See step # 2 of “Fit The Flaps”

).

❏ 8. Repeat steps 1 - 7 for the other Flap.

❏❏6. Cut a 1/2” x 1-1/4” x 14-1/2” balsa Flap

LE to fit on both sides of the Flap Horn. Cut a

1/16” deep notch in one of the Flap LE

sections to allow passage of the Flap Horn.

Glue the Flap LE in position exactly as shown

in the photo, with the top of the Flap flush with

the top of the Flap LE.

❏❏4. Sand the LE of the Flap Ribs flush

(and at the same angle) with the Flap Spar.

Use a long T-bar or sanding block to maintain

a straight LE.

❏❏5. Refer to the plans for the location of

the 1/16” die-cut birch ply Flap Horn. NOTE:

There is a different Flap Horn location for each

flap, so double check your work over the plans.

Glue the Flap Horn in position with

thick CA.

together, cut the inboard and outboard ends of

the Flaps free with a hobby knife or razor saw.

❏❏3. Use a new #11 blade to carefully cut

through each rib at the aft die-cut line. In the

event that some CA has glued the wax paper

❏❏2. Turn the wing over, then use a

straightedge and hobby knife to cut through

the top sheeting, across the two reference

marks, along the length of the flap.

❏❏1. When you look inside the slot that you

cut in the sheeting along the Flap LE, you will

see two partially die-cut lines on each rib.

Insert a pointed piece of wire between the

lines, through the top wing sheeting at each

end of the flap. We are using a wing section

mockup for the purpose of explanation.

BUILD THE FLAPS

27

NOTE: The 1/8” die-cut plywood formers

are stamped only with the necessary

portion of their name. For example, F-2B is

stamped 2B.

❏ 1. Pin the bottom view of the Fuselage plan

to a flat building surface, then cover it with

waxed paper. Cut the plans apart if necessary.

❏ 2. Use 30-Minute Epoxy to glue the following

1/8” die-cut ply parts together to make sub-

assemblies:

A) Two F-1 formers. Make sure the notches

are aligned.

B) Two F-1B formers.

Don’t glue them to F-1

.

C) Two Fuse Keel par ts. Apply weight to hold

them flat.

D) Two FW-A and one FW-B Firewall. Make

sure that FW-B is on the “bottom” of the

stack and that all the tabs are aligned.

E) F2-B and F2-D. F2-D must be glued to the

forward face of F2-B. Make sure that the

dowel holes are aligned.

❏ 3. Pin the 3/16” x 3/8” x 48” grooved Main

Stringers to the plans. Be sure that the Main

Stringers are aligned with the outside edge of

the formers and NOT the outside sheeting line

on the plans. When pinning the Main Stringers

at F-1, align them with the dashed line that

extends past F-1. The 1/8” groove faces to

the outside of the fuse. Leave excess material

extending beyond F-1 and at the tail for trimming

to size later.

IMPORTANT: Before starting assembly, drill

a 3/16” pushrod hole through each of the

punch-marks on formers F-2 - F-8. All

formers must be installed with the stamped

identification number facing forward. This is

necessary to align the pushrod holes.

Build the fuselage bottom

framework

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

❏❏5. Plug the flaps with the hinges into the

wing. Check the fit and run the flaps through

their complete range of motion. Make any

required adjustments until the flaps swing

freely. Remember, the flaps must close flush

against the wing TE.

❏❏4. When a good fit is obtained, install

large Robart Pivot Point Hinges. NOTE

:

The

hinges are not glued in until after the finish

has been applied. Determine the hinge

locations from the plans (if you forgot to mark

them in the aft inner spar), then drill 3/16”

holes at the hinge locations using the drill

guides to obtain the correct angle for the hinge

❏❏2. Assemble the two Flap Drill Guides

(A&B) by gluing the six die-cut 1/8” ply pieces

as shown.

❏❏3. Test fit the flaps. Check that all edges

are flush.

28

❏ 4. Position (without glue) F-1 through F-9 over

the plans and Main Stringer.

Are your 3/16”

pushrod holes drilled?

IMPORTANT NOTE: Cut the “Former Angle”

Template from the plans and glue it to stiff

cardstock or scrap wood. Trim and sand it

to size. Hold it on the AFT side of all

formers to position them at the correct

angle while gluing. Any small warps or

twists will be taken out when the 3/16”

stringers are glued in later.

❏ 5. Using the Former Angle template, start

gluing the formers to the Main Stringers star ting

with F-3, working towards the rear. Don’t glue

F-1 or F-2 yet.

❏ 6. Inser t (without gluing) two 3/16” x 3/16” x

48” stringers into the lowest notches on both

sides, that run from F-1 to F-9 as shown in the

photograph. Starting at F-9, check the former

angle once again with the Former Angle

template. Make sure that you straighten out any

twists, then glue the stringers to F-9 with thin

CA. Continue forward, checking and aligning

each former before reaching for the CA. F-3 is

the last former you need to glue to the

stringers at this time.

❏ 7. Inser t and glue the 1/8” die-cut former LF

into the slot in the fuse Keel. Make sure that it is

square and flush with the top and bottom of

the Keel.

❏ 8. Insert the Keel assembly into the upper

center notches of F-2 and F-3. The notches on

the tips of LF should be resting on the 3/16”

stringers. Adjust F-2 so that the bottom ends are

over the dashed reference lines on the plan and

the forward edge of the Keel is flush with the aft

side of F-2. Glue F-2, the Keel and LF at all

points of contact.

❏ 9. Glue the two halves of the die-cut 1/8” ply

Servo Tray together. Cut four 1/8” x 1/4” x 2-1/4”

doubler strips from scrap ply left over from die-

cut sheets. Glue these doublers on both ends of

the servo holes for reinforcement.

❏ 10. Carefully lift F-1 out of the frame.

You

didn’t glue it in, did you?

Insert the forward end

of the Servo Tray into the Firewall opening in F-

1. The servo reinforcement strips should face

away from the building board.

❏ 11. Fit F-1 and the Ser vo Tray back into the

fuse frame. Work the aft end of the Servo Tray

into the notch in F-2. Align F-1 over the plan.

29

When everything is locked in place, glue the

assembly together. The 3/16” side stringers may

now be trimmed flush with the forward edge

of F-1.

❏ 12. Lightly sand the outside of the two 36”

outer pushrod tubes then insert them through

the holes in F-2 through F-8. Tr im the tubes so

that 1/4” protrudes past F-2 and F-8. Apply a

drop of medium CA to the pushrod tubes at each

former except F-2.

❏ 13. Use 30-Minute Epoxy to glue the 1/4”

birch ply Landing Gear Plate between former

LF and F-3. Be sure that the notches fit well and

that the Landing Gear Plate is firmly against the

Keel.

While the epoxy cures there are a few

other parts we can work on.

❏ 14. Cut two 3/16" stringers from the 24"

lengths provided, to fit from F-2 to F-4 in the

first set of notches above the Main Stringer.

Glue them in place, then sand the ends flush

with the formers.

❏ 15. Glue the 1/8” die-cut ply Nose Gear

Doubler to the aft side of F-1. Be sure to align

the stringer notches.

❏ 16. Center the nylon Nose Gear Bearing on

the tapered 1-1/4” x 1-5/8” basswood Nose

Gear Block. Mark the mounting holes in the

Nose Gear Block, then drill the holes with a 1/8”

bit. Drill the four index marks on the forward

side of F-1 with a 5/32” bit.

❏ 17. Install the Nose Gear Bearing/Block on

F-1 with four 4-40 x 1” Pan Head Bolts and four

4-40 Blind Nuts. The wide end of the Nose Gear

Block points away from the building board.

Drill out the Nose Gear Wire Hole with a 13/64”

drill bit. Remove the Nose Gear Bearing/Block

then use thick CA to mount the basswood block

permanently to F-1. Be sure that all of the

mounting holes stay in alignment.

❏ 18. After the epoxy on the 1/4” Landing Gear

Plate has fully cured (

an hour or more

) clamp

both of the bent aluminum Main Landing Gear

struts in position. The struts should touch the

Keel and F-3. Use a 9/64” dr ill bit to dr ill through

the mounting holes in the struts and also

through the Landing Gear Plate. Enlarge the

holes in only the plywood Landing Gear Plate

with an 11/64” (or 3/16”) drill bit to provide

clearance for the 8-32 mounting bolts.

❏ 19. Use an 8-32 Tap to cut threads in the

aluminum Main Landing Gear mounting holes as

well as the axle mounting holes. Temporarily

install the Landing Gear in the fuse with six 8-32

x 1/2” socket head cap screws.

❏ 20. IMPORTANT: Before you do this step,

make certain that the Main Stringers are

pinned or weighted FLAT onto the building

surface. Cut and install all the remaining 3/16”

square stringers for the fuse bottom. Check each

former for twists and the correct angle before

you use glue. Use the Former Angle Template

as you proceed. The inside ends of the center

stringer should be sanded for a flush fit, then

butt glued to the ends of the Keel.

❏ 21. Glue two of the four 1/8” x 3/16” x 24”

Main Sub-Stringers into the groove in one of

30

MAIN

SUB-STRINGERSTRINGER

MAIN

the Main Stringer. Use Thin CA, wiping up any

excess before it dries. Repeat for the other side.

These Sub-Stringers will provide a ledge for the

side sheeting.

❏ 22. Lightly sand all joints and blend the

stringers with the formers in preparation for

sheeting. The bottom fuse framework is now

ready for sheeting.

❏ 1. Remove the Main Landing Gear struts,

then pin the fuse framework back on the flat

building surface. Push T-pins in at an angle

through the Main Sub-Stringer in a way that

won’t interfere with the sheeting.

❏❏2. Pin one of the 3/32” x 4” x 48” balsa

Fuse Side Sheets to the Main Stringer. Curve

the sheet into contact with the frame, then use

pins, masking tape and clothes pins to hold it

against the the stringers.

❏❏3. Mark the top edge of the first full-

length 3/16” Stringer onto the Fuse Side sheet,

working from the inside of the fuse.

❏❏4. Remove the Fuse Side sheet. Carefully

cut away the excess material. Check the fit and

make adjustments as needed with a hobby knife

and sanding block to the top and bottom edges.

When the sheet is flush with the top of the

stringer, carefully trim away another 3/32” from

the bottom edge. The Fuse Side sheet should

now bisect the stringer, allowing for a glue surface

for the next sheet. Test fit the Fuse Side sheet on

the other side of the fuse, then cut a second Fuse

Side using the first one as a pattern.

❏❏5. Wipe a damp paper towel over the

outside surface of the Fuse Side to aid with

curving the balsa.

❏❏6. Realign a Fuse Side sheet with the

framework, then wick some thin CA into the joint

between the Main Stringer and the Fuse Side

starting midway between the front and back

of the Fuse. Carefully work outward in both

directions along the Main Stringer, holding the

Fuse Side in tight contact with the Main Stringer

as you proceed.

❏❏7. Clip and pin (or tape) the top edge of

the Fuse Side to the first stringer. Wick thin CA

into the joint, but wipe off any excess before it

cures. Avoid using CA accelerator as it will

create lumps along the seam that will cause

problems when you try to add the next piece of

sheeting. Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6 for the

other side.

❏❏8. Rub a piece of chalk along the top

outside edge of a Fuse Side sheet.

❏❏9. Cut two 3/32” x 3” x 36” balsa sheets

down to 26”. Save the cut off pieces for later use.

❏❏10. Wet the outside of one of these sheets,

then flex it with the grain for a minute or two to

soften it up and start a curve. Align the sheet

along the centerline of the 3rd stringer and the

centerline of F-3, then temporarily hold it in

place with clothespins. Mark the lower edge to

match the top edge of the Fuse Side by pressing

it against the chalk. Remove the sheet, turn it

over and cut along the chalk line for a perfect fit!

Sheet the fuselage bottom frame

31

❏❏11. Apply medium CA to all frame parts

that the sheet will contact except the top

stringer. Roll the sheet into position, starting

along the lower edge. Hold it in position by hand

and with clothespins until the CA cures. Wick

thin CA along the top seam, wiping off the

excess before it cures. Repeat Steps 7-11 for

the other side of the fuse.

❏❏12. Cut two 13-1/4” lengths from a 3/32” x

3” x 36” balsa sheet. Hold one of the 13-1/4”

sheets in position on the top edge of the Fuse

Side from F-3 to F-1. Draw a line on the sheet

that bisects F-2, top to bottom.

Remember, F-2

angles forward.

Cut the sheet on the line.

❏❏13. Use the same sheeting technique as

Steps 7-11 to sheet from F-3 forward to F-2. If

the sheeting is not wide enough, glue a strip of

leftover 3/32" balsa to one edge. Use the second

half of the 13-1/4” balsa sheet to sheet from F-2

to F-1. If the sheeting is not wide enough, glue a

strip of leftover 3/32” balsa to one edge.

❏ 14. Repeat Steps 12 and 13 for the other side

of the fuse.

❏❏15. Mark the location of the Main Landing

Gear by pushing a long T-pin through the sheeting

between LF and F-3 with the pin flat on the upper

surface of the Landing Gear Plate. Use the pin as

a reference point to cut a 1/4” x 1-1/2” slot for the

Main Landing Gear. The slot must be even with

the Landing Gear Plate and F-3.

Don’t worry if the

slot is slightly oversized as it will be covered with

an ABS fairing during final assembly.

❏❏16. Clean up the inside edges of the

sheeting along the third stringer with a T-bar and

150-grit sandpaper. Clip a 3/32” x 2” x 30” balsa

sheet along the centerline of the center stringer,

from LF to F-9. Use the chalk technique to mark

the outline, then tr im the sheet to size. Glue the

sheet in position.

❏❏17. Fit, cut and glue the other 2”-wide

bottom sheet in the same manner.

❏❏18. Cut the 3/32” x 2-3/4” x 24” forward

bottom sheet into two 12” lengths. Use the same

chalk technique to fit, cut and glue the two

forward bottom sheets between LF and F-1.

❏❏19. When the all of the balsa sheeting is dry,

lightly sand the joints with 220-grit sandpaper.

Sand the sheeting flush with F-1 and F-9.

32

Remove the hull (I meant to say fuselage) from

the building board, and install the landing gear

with six 8-32 x 1/2” socket head cap screws. The

landing gear struts provide a built-in stand to

help avoid hangar rash on the underside. Looks

pretty sleek, huh?

SPECIAL BUILDER’S NOTE: As this model has

been designed with the scale builder in mind,

the servos, receiver, battery and tank are all

hidden under the instrument panel so they are

less conspicuous and leave the cabin interior

open for unlimited detailing. Because of this

location you will find it much easier to install

these components before the top of the fuse is

assembled. We are not saying that they can’t be

installed (or removed) later, it’s just

much easier

to do it now.

❏ Before assembling the fuse top, fuel proof and

paint the interior from F-1 to F-2 including the

servo tray. We used K & B Black Super Poxy paint

with satin catalyst to do both jobs at one time.

❏ 1. Locate the two .074” x 36” Pushrod Wires.

Cut six or seven 1/4” long bushings of inner

pushrod tube, then slide these along the wire

from the unthreaded end. Space them out evenly

but make sure that the bushings on the ends are

at least 4” from the end of the wire. If the

bushings slide too easily, use a small drop of thin

CA to hold them in position. Slide a silicone

Retainer onto the rear of a nylon Clevis, then

screw the Clevis onto the Pushrod about 14

turns. Make a second Pushrod in the same

manner.

❏ 2. Make sure that the CA on the bushings has

thoroughly cured (

you don’t want the Pushrods

glued to the inside of the tubes

) then insert the

Pushrod wires over the top of F-1 into the

forward end of the Pushrod Tubes and slide

them all the way through.

❏ 3. Cut the Rudder Servo Horn pattern from

the plans and glue it to a large servo wheel with

rubber cement. Cut out the custom horn shape

with a razor saw and grinding wheel. Drill the

clevis holes with a 1/16” bit.

❏ 4. Install three servos as shown with their

splined shafts toward F-1. Depending on

engine choice (2-stroke or 4-stroke), the throttle

servo location can be on either the left or the

right side of the servo tray. The receiver switch

can also be installed in the servo tray at this

time, or you could mount it through the fuse

sheeting during final assembly.

❏ 1. Drill four 15/64” diameter holes through the

laminated Firewall for the engine mounting bolts at

the marked locations. Insert four 8-32 blind nuts

into the holes from the aft side (that’s the side with

the lightening hole) and seat them with gentle taps

from a hammer. Wick a little thin CA around the

edge of each nut to secure it in position.

Frame fuselage top

Install pushrods and servos

Fuelproof and paint the interior

33

NOTE: Test fit the entire following assembly

(Steps 2-5) before using any glue.

❏ 2. Mix 1/4 oz. of 30-Minute Epoxy. Use epoxy

to glue the two die-cut 1/8” ply Firewall Side

Supports to F-1 and the Servo Tray.

❏3. Use epoxy to glue the Firewall between the

two Side Supports and then glue the die-cut 1/8”

ply Tank Roof in position.

❏ 4. Use medium CA to glue the die-cut 1/8” ply

Instrument Panel (IP) to the top of the Main

Stringer 3-5/8” behind the forward edge of F-1

and also to the aft edge of the Tank Roof.

Line

up the Tank Roof between the punched index

marks on IP.

❏ 5. Use epoxy to glue F-1B to the top edge of

F-1 and the Tank Roof. A couple of scrap sticks

spot glued to the forward face of F-1 will help

align F-1B.

NOTE: Before the epoxy cures, use clamps

and masking tape to hold all parts in

alignment and in tight contact with each other .

❏ 6. Glue F-5B, F-6B, F-7B and F-8B on top of

formers F-5 through F-8. Hold a straightedge

across both former halves to align them.

❏ 7. Lightly taper the top forward edge of the

two die-cut 1/8” ply Stab Saddles to allow for

the curvature of the sheeting, then glue them to

the top of the Main Stringer between F-8B

and F-9.

❏ 8. Draw an “X” from corner to cor ner on two

5/16” x 3/4” x 7/8” basswood Strut Blocks to

locate the center point. Drill a 1/16” dia. hole

through the the Strut Block where the lines

cross. Position the Strut Blocks on second

stringer (See the strut section on the wing plan)

from the bottom at F-2. You will need to sand a

slight radius on the Strut Blocks so that they will

fit flush against the sheeting. Sand a taper along

the forward edge so that they will fit flush against

F-2. It is important to keep both Strut Blocks the

same size. Glue them in place when satisfied

with the fit.

❏ 9. Glue the die-cut 1/8” ply F-2B/F-2D and F-

3B formers to the Main Stringer above F-2

and F-3.

❏ 10. Glue the die-cut 1/8” ply former doublers F-

2C and F-3C to the forward faces of F-2B and F-

3B. The notches interlock with the Main Stringer.

34

❏ 11. Check alignment, then glue the die-cut

1/8” ply Wing Saddle Braces into the notches

on F-2B and F-3B.

❏ 12. Fit the die-cut 1/8” ply rear Window

Frames into the notches in F-5B and the Wing

Saddle Braces. The upper ends should protrude

above the Wing Saddle Brace about 3/32”. Glue

the Rear Window Frames into position then

lightly sand the protruding tips, leaving about

1/16” above the Wing Saddle Brace.

❏ 13. Glue the top and bottom die-cut 3/32”

balsa Cabin Sides together.

❏ 14. Align both Cabin Sides fore and aft on the

Main Stringer between IP and F-5B. Fit the

notch at the upper front corner of the Cabin Side

wing roots

to the tabs at the top of F-2B. Glue

the Cabin Sides to the Main Stringers, F-2B and

F-3B, but not to the Wing Saddle Brace.

❏ 15. Press down on the middle of the Wing

Saddle Brace until it is about 1/16” below the top

edge of the Cabin Side, then wick thin CA along

the seam to hold it in position. When cured, add

a fillet of medium CA to the joint to secure it in

place.

This depression will allow for the addition

of Foam Wing Saddle Tape and minor

adjustment to the wing’s alignment if needed.

❏ 16. Repeat Step 15 for the other side of the

fuse. Sand the edge of the Cabin Sides flush

with the Rear Window Frames.

❏ 17. Use 30-Minute Epoxy to glue the 3/8” x

7/8” x 1” hardwood Wing Bolt Blocks into the

pockets of the Wing Saddle Braces and to F-3B.

Make sure that you obtain a solid bond between

all parts. Turn the fuse upside down and add a

fillet of epoxy around the edges of the Wing

Bolt Blocks under the Wing Saddle Braces.

❏ 1. Install a 3/16” Wheel Collar and Set

Screw on the Nose Gear Wire, between the

upper and lower parts of the Nose Gear Bearing.

The top end of the Nose Gear Wire must

protrude 3/16” above the top of the Bearing.

Install the Nose Gear Steering Arm on the top

end of the Nose Gear Wire as shown. Use a 6-

32 x 1/4” Socket Head Cap Screw to secure the

Nose Gear Steering Arm in position, angled 1-

1/8” forward of F-1 when the wheel’s axle is

parallel to F-1.

See plan bottom view for angle.

❏ 2. Cut 1/2” from the threaded end of the 4-40

x 12” Nose Wheel Steering Pushrod wire. File

off any burrs from the cut end. Screw a 4-40 He x

Nut and Metal Clevis onto the Pushrod. Use the

pattern on the plans to bend the Pushrod as

indicated, but don’t cut off the excess y et.

❏ 3. Drill a 3/32” hole through the outer hole of

the Nose Gear Steering Arm. Inser t the heavy-

duty Screw Lock Pushrod Connector up from

the bottom of the Nose Wheel Steering Arm,

then secure it with a Star Washer. Insert the

unthreaded end of the Pushrod through the

Connector toward F-1. View the fuse from above

to align the Pushrod with the rudder servo, then

mark F-1 using the Pushrod as a punch.

❏ 4. Drill a 3/16 hole through F-1 on the mark

you just made.

❏ 5. Hook up your radio and check that the

rudder servo is centered. Cut the Pushrod to

Install nose gear steering

35

its correct length, then insert it from the servo

location through F-1 into the Connector on the

Nose Wheel Steering Arm. Clip the Metal Clevis

onto the servo horn. Align the servo horn and

Nose Wheel Steering Arm as shown on the

plans. Secure the Pushrod in the Quick

Connector with a 4-40 x 1/4” Socket Head

Cap Screw.

❏ 6. When the Nose Wheel Steering Arm is

adjusted, remove the Nose Gear Wire. File a flat

spot where the steering arm locking screw

contacts the wire so the steering arm can be

locked in position.

Depending on your choice of engine, 2-stroke or

4-stroke, you may have to be a little inventive for

throttle, tank and muffler hookup. The installation

of a 2-stroke .60 to .90 size engine is pretty

straightforward. Use the servo locations

provided on the Servo Tray, mount the tank

sideways as shown, and use a Top Flite In-Cowl

Muffler (TOPQ7916). Some 4-stroke engines

allow the throttle linkage to be rotated 180

degrees, thereby permitting the same servo

setup as a 2-stroke engine.

The O. S. .91

Surpass is one such engine.

This model flies very well on an O. S. .61 SF

2-stroke engine. As the .61SF also allows for the

most “sterile” setup with everything contained in

the cowl, we will detail its installation.

We have

also included instructions for those who prefer to

use one of the larger 4-stroke engines.

❏ 1. Remove the spacer bar from the back of

both Engine Mount halves and trim off any burrs.

Snap the Engine Mount halves together and

place the engine of your choice between the rails,

adjusting the width between the rails accordingly.

❏ 2. Position the engine so that the propeller

backplate is exactly 6-1/4” (159 mm) from the aft

edge of the Engine Mount. Mark, drill and tap

the engine mounting holes to accept the 8-32

socket head cap screws included with this kit.

❏ 3. Install the Engine Mount on the Firewall as

shown with four 8-32 x 1-1/4” Socket Head Cap

Screws, #8 Flat Washers and #8 Lock Washers.

Use the index marks on the Firewall to center

the Engine Mount.

NOTE: We strongly recommend that ALL

engines be mounted horizontally to provide

enough cooling airflow over the cylinder

via the normal cowl air inlets.

❏4. Bolt the engine to the mount.

If using the optional Top Flite In-Cowl Muffler

and Header, perform the following step:

❏ 5. Bolt the Top Flite Header (not included) to

the engine. Use the Silicone Sleeve to attach the

Top Flite In-Cowl Muffler (not included) to the

Header. Make a spacer block for the muffler from

scrap. NOTE: Do not use balsa. Use epoxy to

glue the spacer block to F-1 in line with the

muffler mounting lugs. Shorten the muffler or

header connection tubes if required, so that the

muffler can be screwed to the spacer using the

supplied screws and silicone washers.

❏6. Drill a 3/16” hole through the Firewall in line

with the servo and throttle arm on the engine.

Keep the hole close to the level of the servo

tray so that the pushrod will be able to pass

under the Fuel Tank.

Install engine and tank

36

NOTE: Due to the variety of hook-up methods

preferred by different modelers, we do not

provide any throttle linkage hardware in most

of our kits. However, we do offer the following

method as one that works well. You probably

have the materials buried somewhere under

your workbench.

❏ 7. Insert a shor t length of outer pushrod tube

through the throttle hole in the Firewall. Attach a

Ball Link to the throttle arm on the engine. Screw

a Ball Link Socket onto a 2-56 x 12” threaded

wire pushrod. Insert the pushrod through the

outer pushrod tube, then attach the Ball Link and

Socket. Bend a “dog leg” in the pushrod near the

servo so that the wire will be just above the

servo horn. Attach the pushrod wire to the servo

with a small pushrod Connector. Connect the

servo to your radio and adjust the pushrod

length and position on the servo horn to obtain

full throttle movement.

❏ 8. Assemble a 12 oz. Great Planes Fuel

Tank (GPMQ4105) with the right angled fuel

pickup tube. The Tank is installed “

sideways

”

under the Instrument Panel with the back end

pointing toward the right side of the fuse. Work a

small piece of 1/4” foam rubber above and below

the Tank, then slide a couple of scrap balsa

sticks under the tank to secure it in position and

provide throttle pushrod clearance. We flew all of

our test flights with the tank mounted in this

position and experienced no problems.

❏ 9. Mark and drill 1/4” fuel tube holes through

the firewall, being careful not to damage the tank.

Install both the fuel supply and pressure tubes.

For ease of fueling we suggest a Great Planes

Fuel Filler Valve (GPMQ4160) that can be

mounted on the cowling during final assembly.

❏ 1. Check the fit of the Stab with the Stab

Saddle. Make any adjustments to the Stab

Saddle very carefully, so that you don’t change

the built-in incidence angle.

❏ 2. Put the stab on the saddle and add a small

weight to hold it in place. Place a 36”

straightedge across the Wing Saddle and clip it

to F-2B. Sight across the top of the Stab to the

straightedge from six to ten feet behind the

model. If both Stab tips are not equidistant

below the straightedge, make small adjustments

to the Stab Saddle to correct the problem. Use a

string, pinned to the top center of F-2, to

equalize the distance of the Stab tips.

Attach the stab and fin

Use scrap 3/16” or 1/4” plywood to make two

servo mounting blocks approximately 3/4”

square. Use epoxy to glue these blocks as

shown above the Fuel Tank Roof so that the

servo horn aligns with the throttle arm on the

engine. Use the same pushrod technique as

described in Step 8 for a direct hookup. The

down-side to this method is that the servo will

not be accessible after sheeting without cutting

into the top of the fuse...but, because servos

are generally quite reliable, this may never

be necessary.

SERVO OPTION FOR 1.20 ENGINE

To simplify the throttle hookup for a 1.20 4-

stroke engine you may want to consider the

following suggestion.

37

A=A

A

A

❏ 3. When the Stab is aligned with the Fuse,

draw light reference marks on the Stab to help

you accurately reposition it after the glue has

been applied.

❏ 4. Apply 30-Minute Epoxy to the Stab Saddle,

then lay the Stab in place. Apply a weight to hold

the Stab in position until the epoxy cures. Double-

check alignment before the epoxy kicks off.

❏ 5. Hold the Fin on top of the Stab with the LE

in the notch at the top of F-8B. Refer to the plans

and you will see that the Fin TE is 1/8” forward

of the Stab TE notch (see photo at step 7). Mark

the bottom edge to show where fin sheeting

needs to be trimmed to allow a flush fit with the

Stab.

❏ 6. Put the Fin in position and sight it from 6

to10 feet behind the model. If it is not vertical,

make adjustments to the bottom edge a little at a

time with fine sandpaper. When you are satisfied

with the fit, pin the Fin in position. Carefully

measure from the Fin tip to the Stab tips to

double check your “eyeball” method and to be

sure that your sanding is accurate.

❏ 7. Mar k the aft center of the Fin’s TE on the

Stab. This is where the Rudder Torque Rod will

exit the Stab. Mark the location of the fin prior to

removal for future realignment. Remove the Fin

from the Stab.

❏ 8. Align the die-cut 1/8” ply Fin Drill Guide

with the Fin center mark on the Stab as shown.

Carefully drill a 3/16” hole through the Stab into

the rear of the fuse while keeping the drill bit

aligned with the Fin Drill Guide.

❏ 9. Trim the threaded por tion of the 1/8” bent

wire Rudder Torque Rod so that 5/8” of thread

remains. Screw the nylon Rudder Horn onto the

threaded end until flush with the end of

the threads.

❏ 10. Inser t the Rudder Torque Rod through the

hole in the Stab from inside the fuse. Tr y not to

damage the Stab as the Torque Rod exits the

hole. If satisfied with the fit and alignment,

remove the Rudder Torque Rod and roughen up

the surface of the plastic bearing tube with

100-grit sandpaper. Coat the Torque Rod wire

with petroleum jelly at both ends of the plastic

bearing tube. Coat the Plastic Bearing Tube with

6-Minute Epoxy, then reinser t it into the hole in

the Stab. The Plastic Bearing Tube should

protrude above the Stab about 1/16”.

NOTE: Before installing the Fin, we need to

finish up the pushrod hookups so that the

Fin won’t be in the way when you turn the

fuse upside down.

❏ 11. Clean the aft ends of both wire pushrods

with steel wool. Clean the ends with alcohol.

Grip a pushrod with a pair of pliers, then push a

Coupling Sleeve onto the wire halfway using

another pair of pliers. Do the same with the

other pushrod.

38

A

A=A

A

❏ 12. Screw a nylon Clevis onto a 2-56 x 4”

threaded Pushrod at least 14 revolutions. Slide

a Silicone Retainer over the Pushrod, onto the

aft end of the Clevis. Clip the Clevis onto the

Rudder Torque Rod Hor n and center the Torque

Rod (i.e., neutral rudder). With the servo

centered, position the 4” pushrod over the Split

Coupling Sleeve, then mark it where it will just

miss touching the other pushrod already in the

Sleeve. Repeat this procedure for the Elevator.

❏ 13. Trim and clean (as you did during Step 11)

the short Pushrods, then push them into the aft

end of the Coupling Sleeves. Use liquid Flux and

Silver Solder to solder the Pushrods into the

Coupling Sleeves. If you haven’t done this

operation before, read

Hot Tip for Silver Soldering.

Now that most of the fiddly work is finished,

clean up your bench and let’s get back to what

many people consider “the fun stuff”–finishing

the airframe.

❏ 14. If you are installing a beacon light on the

Fin, drill a hole through the Stab that matches

the location of the conduit you installed earlier.

❏ 15. Mix up some 30-Minute Epoxy and add a

dash of microballoons to “thicken it up” and

create a fillet. Apply the epoxy mixture to the LE,

TE and bottom of the Fin. Align the Fin, and

press it into position. Use masking tape to hold it

in position while the epoxy cures. Once the tape

is in place, check the Fin to make sure that it’s

on the fuse centerline and perpendicular to the

Stab. Use any leftover epoxy to form a small fillet

around the base of the Fin.

❏ 1. Cut 3/16” x 3/16” x 24” balsa Str ingers to fit

the top aft formers from F-5B to the top of the

Stab. Taper the Stringers to blend with the

surface of the Stab. Leave about 3/16” of each

Stringer protruding forward of F-5B to provide a

“ledge” for the rear window. Use thin CA to glue

them in place.

Complete the fuselage top

B. Roughen the area to be soldered with fine

sandpaper, then clean again.

C. Assemble the items to be soldered.

D. Apply a small amount of soldering flux. Acid

based liquid flux works best when one or more

of the items is steel.

E. Heat the metal with a soldering gun or iron,

and apply solder to the metal. The metal must

get hot enough to melt the solder and the

solder must flow freely into the joint.

F. Do not move the parts until the solder has

cooled.

G. Test the joint by pulling hard.

H. Clean off the excess flux with alcohol or

solvent. Coat the parts with a very fine film of oil.

HOT TIP FOR SILVER SOLDERING

Use this process when soldering metal to

metal, such as brass tube to wire, or pushrod

ends to wire.

A. Thoroughly clean the items to be soldered

with alcohol or degreasing solvent. Pay special

attention to the inside of the Threaded

Brass Couplers.

39

❏ 2. Cut 3/16” square balsa Stringers to fit from

F-1B to IP. Glue them in position with thin CA.

❏ 3. Use the pattern on the wing plan to cut an

Upper Side Panel (not to be confused with Top

Panel) from a 3/32” x 2-3/4” x 24” balsa sheet.

The curved portion should be sanded for a snug

fit under the Stab when the bottom of the sheet

is on the Main Sub-stringer. Trim the length to fit

flush with the Cabin Side and the aft end of the

Stab. The top edge should bisect the stringer.

Dampen the outside surface of the sheet, flex it

to start a curve, then glue it in place with

medium CA. Repeat this step for the other side

of the fuse. IMPORTANT: Be sure to get a good

glue bond between the sheeting and the bottom

of the Stab.

❏ 4. Once again, use the pattern on the wing

plan to rough cut the Top Panel from a 3/32” x

2-3/4” x 24” balsa sheet. This time, carefully

sand the aft areas to fit closely with the Stab and

the Fin. Trim the length even with the

overhanging stringers at F-5B. The Top Panel

should bisect the top center stringer. Repeat this

step for the other side. Use the chalk technique

to mark the top center cut line.

❏ 5. Use the off-cut pieces of 3/32” balsa from

the lower fuse sheeting to sheet the area from F-

1B to 1-1/2” past the Instrument Panel. The

easiest way to do this small section is to make a

“skin” by edge gluing three sheets together, then

cutting them as a unit to fit over the front end of

the fuse.

❏ 6. Refer to the shape of the Instrument Panel

anti-glare shield on the plans, then carefully cut

and sand the top forward sheeting to conform to

this shape.

❏ 7. Sand off the protruding por tion of the Main

Sub-Stringer

ledge

from along both sides of the

fuse with a T-bar or sanding block.

❏8. Draw a centerline from the middle of the Fin

LE along the top of the fuse to F-5B. The tip of

the center stringer may be used for reference.

Use the plans as a guide to spot glue the die-cut

3/32” balsa Dorsal Fin Former D-3 in position.

It must be centered on the centerline you drew.

9. Measure and cut a 7/32” x 1/2” x 15” tapered

balsa Top Edg e stringer (leftover from the wing

center section TE) to fit from the Fin’s LE to the

top of the fuse, as shown on the plans. Glue it in

position. Slide die-cut 3/32” balsa D-1 and D-2

under the Top Edge stringer until they fit. Glue

them in position.

❏ 10. Hold a 1/16” x 3” x 30” balsa sheet against

the Dorsal Fin framework and trace the outline,

allowing a little extra for sanding. Bevel the aft

edge to fit the curvature of the Fin at the LE.

Glue the sheet to the Dorsal Fin’s frame and to

the fuse top sheeting being careful not to build

in any twists. Repeat this step for the other side .

40

❏ 11. Sand the shaped 1/4” balsa Dorsal Fillet

to blend with the top of the Dorsal Fin and the

Fin’s LE. Glue it in place, then sand it to blend

with the two Fins. The result should be a

smooth, constant radius, without any “bumps” on

the ends.

❏ 12. Blend the Dorsal Fin to the Vertical Fin

with several thin coats of balsa filler. The object

is to have the whole Fin assembly appear as

one flowing piece.

NOTE: Do not make a fillet where the Fin

assembly meets the fuse.

❏ 13. While you have the balsa filler handy, take

care of any dings and open seams between

the sheeting.

❏ 14. Test fit the four segments of the die-cut

1/8” balsa Cowl Ring on F-1.

NOTE: There are top and bottom pairs of

parts to the Cowl Ring. Glue the Cowl Ring to

F-1 with thick CA, so that you will have a few

seconds to make last-minute adjustments.

The Cowl Ring should be inset from the fuse

sheeting by about 1/16” all around.

❏ 15. Use 30-Minute Epoxy to glue each of the

1/2” x 1/2” x 5/8” Maple Cowl Mount Blocks

into the notches around the Cowl Ring. As

Cowlings are usually subjected to a fair amount

of vibration, be sure to get a good bond between

the Blocks, the Cowl Ring and F-1.

❏16. Glue the two 1/32” x 3/8” x 4-5/8” birch ply

strips to the forward sides of F-2B. They extend

from the Main Stringer to the top of F-2D and

provide a little extra support for F-2B.

By now you should be looking at a Cessna. If

not, you’ve been working on the wrong kit.

❏ 1. Clean out wing dowel holes with a 1/4” drill

bit, to assure easy wing dowel fits.

❏ 2. Install the wing and check the fit. Make

adjustments as necessary. Hold a string (with

Mount the wing to the fuselage

41

A=A

A

A

one end attached to a pin centered at the tail)

out to a wing tip. Put a piece of tape on the

string to mark the intersection of the string and

the wing tip. Swing the string over to the other

wing tip and check to see if the distances are the

same (see diagram). Adjust the position of the

trailing edge of the wing until the wing is

properly aligned.

NOTE: Make sure the wing is held securely

and cannot shift while you are drilling the

mounting holes.

❏ 3. Lightly mark the center of the wing mount

holes on the Mounting Blocks, with a 1/4” drill

bit inserted through the Bolt Plates in the wing.

Do not drill through the Mounting Blocks with

the 1/4" Bit.

❏ 4. Remove the wing and drill the holes with a

#10 (or 13/64”) drill bit through the wing mount

blocks. Keep the drill as vertical as possible. Tap

the holes with a 1/4-20 tap. Add a couple drops of

thin CA to the holes to harden the threads, then

re-tap the holes after the CA has fully cured.

❏ 5. Bolt the wing in position with 1/4-20 x 2”

nylon Wing Bolts.

The nylon Wing Bolts may be

shortened to 1-1/2” if desired.

NOTE: Hinging is usually done after

covering and painting; however, because

the control linkages will be enclosed in the

fuse, you should temporarily install the

hinges WITHOUT using CA so that the

clevises can be adjusted. The hinge

locations are shown on the plans.

❏Cut 15 hinges (3/4” x 1”)

from the 2” x 9” CA hinge

strip. Trim the cor ners at a

45 degree angle to make

insertion easier.

❏ 1. Use a #11 blade in a hobby knife to cut

matching hinge slots in the Stab and the

Elevators at the locations shown on the plans.

Test fit the Elevators to the Stabilizer with all

hinges and the wire joiner in place. Make sure

both Elevators are set at the same angle. Make

adjustments to the joiner wire and pushrod

length if necessary.

Do steps 2 and 3 AFTER the model has been

covered.

❏ 2. Chamfer the ends of the joiner wire slightly

with a file. Roughen the “arms” with coarse

sandpaper. Clean the “arms” thoroughly with

rubbing alcohol. Work a generous amount of

30-Minute Epoxy into the wire joiner holes in

the elevators.

❏ 3. Work the elevator hinges into the stab and,

as you do this, insert the wire joiner all the way

into the elevator holes. Wipe away any excess

epoxy. Glue the hinges in place using 4-6 drops

of thin CA on both sides of each hinge.

❏ 1. Hold the Rudder against the Fin. Mark the

location of the Torque Rod

tiller

on the LE of the

Rudder. Drill a 9/64” hole into the Rudder LE

that is in line with the Torque Rod

tiller

. A hand-

turned

Pin Vice

is a good tool for this purpose.

❏ 2. Cut a 9/64”-wide groove from the bottom of

the Rudder to the tiller hole. Ream out the

groove with a 9/64” drill bit or round file. Insert

the Torque Rod tiller into the hole, then seat the

Rudder against the Fin TE. Make whatever

adjustments are necessary to align the Rudder

in the neutral position. Double check that the

servo is centered.

Hinge the rudder and ailerons

Hinge the elevator

HINGE THE CONTROL

SURFACES

42

3/4"

1"

1"

❏ 3. Install three hinges in the Rudder and

Fin assembly.

Do steps 4 and 5 after the model is covered.

❏ 4. Pack 30-Minute Epoxy into the tiller hole in

the Rudder, then install the Rudder in the same

manner as the Elevators.

❏ 5. Hinge the Ailerons using the same

technique as the Elevators and Rudder, but

without the torque rod insertion steps.

THERE SHOULD BE NO HINGE GAP

❏ 1. Bevel the 3/4” x 3” x 6” balsa Lower Aft

Fuse Block to fit flush with F-8. Glue the Block

to the stringers and to F-8. Use a razor plane

and sanding block to shape the Block to blend

with the shape of the Fuse.

❏ 2. Trim the left and right ABS plastic Tail

Cone halves to the cut line, then sand the edges

smooth. Glue the two halves together with thin

CA. Hold the Tail Cone up to the aft end of the

Fuse and mark the location of the elevator joiner

wire on each side. Notch out the Tail Cone to

allow the joiner wire to fit through it. Use thick

CA to glue the Tail Cone in position.

❏ 3. Blend the Tail Cone to the Fuse by

roughening the plastic with coarse sandpaper, then

applying balsa filler around the joint. When the filler

is dry , f eather the edges with a sanding b loc k.

❏ 4. Sand a 1/32” recess around the protruding

top sheeting at F-5B so that the Butyrate Rear

Window will fit flush with the fuse top.

Several

layers of masking tape wrapped over the top

sheeting makes a handy guide for sanding even

channels such as this.

❏ 5. Trim the Butyrate Rear Window to the

embossed cut lines. Test fit the Rear Window

and make adjustments as needed with a

sanding block and 220-grit sandpaper.

❏ 6. Roughen the inside edges of the Rear

Window where it will contact the fuse, then glue

it in position with RC-56 glue or 6-Minute Epoxy.

❏ 7. Use balsa filler to feather the Rear Window

into the fuse after the glue has cured. (See

directions for Step 3.)

❏ 8. Install the wing then fit a 1/4" x 1-5/8" x

1-5/8" balsa shim on each inboard wing root to

fill the gap between the Wing and the Cabin

Sides. Leave about a 1/16” gap on both sides, to

allow for the thickness of the Front Windshield.

FUSELAGE FINISHING

TOUCHES

43

❏ 1. Use a new # 11 blade in a hobby knife to

score around the

cutlines

inside all three parts

of the ABS cowl as shown in the photo. Flex the

ABS along the scores until the excess material

breaks free. Use a Moto-Tool and cutting burr to

cut the air intakes and propshaft opening.

❏ 2. Use a sanding block to clean up the edges

and to make any adjustments that may be needed

for a nice flush fit. Roughen the inside edges of the

joints with coarse sandpaper, then fit the three

parts together and secure them with tape. Carefully

wick thin CA around the joints and allow the parts

to cure. Do not use CA accelerator .

❏ 3. For added strength, epoxy 1”-wide

fiberglass cloth tape across all of the seams on

the inside of the cowl.

IMPORTANT: Hot air generated by the

engine MUST be vented from the cowl or

your engine will overheat and quit! While

we experienced no overheating problems with

our engine running slightly rich and both air

inlets open, you may prefer not to open both

air inlets. By leaving only the inlet in front of

the cylinder open,more air is forced directly

over the cylinder and out through the cowl

flaps. If you choose to open the second inlet, a

dummy cylinder head or baffle could be

installed behind the opening to restrict the

air-flow into the cowl.

❏ 4. Use a hobby knife to cut along the

embossed lines on the inside of the cowl for the

cowl flap openings. Use the patterns on the plans

to cut the cowl flap sides from excess 1/16” ply

leftover from the servo hatch die-cut sheet. Cut

out the cowl flaps from the ABS sheet, using the

cut lines for reference. Glue the cowl flap sides to

the inside edges of the cowl, then center the flap

across the sides and glue it in place.

❏ 5. Fill the seams on the outside of the cowl

with

Bondo

®

type automotive body filler.

❏ 1. Mount the engine. Slide the Cowl into

position as far as it will fit. Cut a slot in the Cowl

for the Nose Gear. Sand the hardwood Cowl

Mounting Blocks and balsa Cowl Ring until the

Cowl fits flush with the fuse. With the cowl in

position, install a spinner on the prop shaft and

check the clearance around the front of the

Cowl. Sand the aft edge of the Cowl until the

spinner is centered and is 1/16” away from the

front of the Cowl.

❏2. Draw a short line to extend the centerline of

each Cowl Mounting Block onto the forward

edge of the balsa sheeting.

❏ 3. Sandwich a T-pin between two scraps of

1/4” balsa to make a quickie height gauge. Glue

the top to the bottom piece of balsa with CA.

Hold the height gauge and the Cowl flat on the

work bench, then rotate the height gauge around

the perimeter of the cowl to lightly scribe a line.

NOTE: A pen or pencil may be substituted

for the “Pin” so long as the point is 1/4”

above the work surface.

Fit the cowl to the fuselage

and engine

Assemble the cowl

44

❏ 4. Tape the Cowl on the front of the fuse.

Extend the centerlines you drew in step 2

forward to the line on the Cowl. Drill 1/16” pilot

holes into the Cowl Mounting Blocks at each

intersection. Remove the Cowl and enlarge the

holes in only the Cowl to 3/32”.

❏ 5. Install the needle valve. If you will be using

a 4-stroke engine, install the choke control wire

as well.

❏ 6. Use thin cardstock or a file folder to make

location templates as shown in the photo. In

the case of a 2-stroke engine you will need

templates for the glow plug access, needle valve

and muffler exhaust. Larger 4-stroke engines will

also require a template for the cylinder head and

choke button. Tape these securely to the fuse

behind F-1.

❏ 7. Remove the control extensions (and 4-

stroke engine if that is what you have chosen) but

leave the templates in place. Slide the cowl

under the templates and fasten in position with

#2 x 3/8” sheet metal screws. Use a pen to trace

the openings on the cowl. Remove the cowl, then

use a Moto-Tool and grinding stone (or power

drill and a round file) to cut the openings.

❏ 8. Put the engine back on the mount with a

couple of screws, then check the fit of the cowl

openings. Make adjustments as necessary, a

little at a time.

❏ 9. Drill a 3/8” hole in the cowl between F-1

and the engine’s carb to install an optional fuel

filler valve (GPMQ4160).

❏❏1. Trim the upper and lower Wheel Pants to

the cut lines. Sand the edges smooth with 150-

grit sandpaper.

❏❏2. Position a Main Landing Gear strut in the

recessed portion of the lower section of the

Wheel Pant, 5/16” above the bottom edge.

Mark the axle hole through the Landing Gear.

❏❏3. Drill a 3/16” hole through the mark you

just made and also through the index mark on

the 1/16” die-cut birch ply Axle Support.

❏❏4. Glue the 1/8” die-cut balsa Wheel Pant

Spacers to the ply Axle Suppor t as shown. Test

fit the support assembly inside the Wheel Pant,

then sand the balsa Spacers to match the

contours of the Wheel Pant.

❏❏5. To align the suppor t assembly, insert the

8-32 x 1-1/2” Axle Bolt through the hole in the

Wheel Pant. Slide the support assembly onto

the bolt and glue it in position to the inside of the

Wheel Pant with medium CA.

Assemble and install wheel pants

45

❏❏6. Roughen the mating area of both Wheel

Pant halves with coarse sandpaper. Tape the

upper half of the Wheel Pant in position, then

wick thin CA around the seam. Remove the tape

and fill the seam with Bondo

®

. Sand the Bondo

when it has hardened.

NOTE: Remove the Landing Gear from the

model to do the next several steps.

❏❏7. Tr im the ABS upper and lower Landing

Gear Fairings to the cut lines. Cut a slot in both

parts to fit at the top and bottom of the Landing

Gear as shown. Slide them onto the Landing

Gear strut but don’t glue them in position yet.

❏❏8. Assemble the Axle and 3-1/4” wheel as

shown in the photo. The Hex Nut should not

inhibit free rotation of the wheel.

❏❏9. Insert the Axle through the hole in the

wooden support assembly, then screw it into the

Landing Gear strut. (Hint: Grind a screwdriver

slot in the threaded end of the axle bolt.) Screw

another 8-32 hex nut onto the Axle bolt from the

other side of the Landing Gear strut, locking the

axle in place. Check that the wheel still rotates

without binding. Put a drop of thin CA on the

outer hex nut to lock it in place.

❏❏10. Install the Main Landing Gear, then

slide the upper Fairing into contact with the

Fuse. Sand the Fairing edges to obtain a good fit

with the curvature of the Fuse. Put a small

amount of 6-Minute Epoxy inside the Fairing

where it touches the Landing Gear strut, then

slide it back into contact with the Fuse. Do NOT

glue the Fairing directly to the fuse as it must

be able to flex with the Landing Gear and also

allow you to remove the Landing Gear strut for

maintenance if needed.

❏❏11. Align the bottom edge of the Wheel

Pants with your workbench, with the model in a

level attitude. Screw a #2 x 3/8” sheet metal

screw through the small hole next to the Axle

into the Wheel Pant to hold it in alignment.

❏❏12. Slide the lower Landing Gear Fairing

down until it touches the Wheel Pant. Wick thin

CA around the edges to attach it to the Pant. Fill

in the bottom edge recess with Bondo and sand

it smooth.

❏❏13. The ABS Nose Gear Wheel Pant

assembles in the same manner as the Main

Landing Gear Pants, but has no inner support

assembly. Cut out the opening on the bottom for

the wheel. Drill a 3/16” hole for the axle wire.

❏❏14. Insert the Nose Gear Wire into the axle

hole. Slide a 3/16” wheel collar onto the wire

from the inside followed by a 2-3/4” wheel

followed by another wheel collar. Center the

wheel and tighten the wheel collar set screws.

Apply a liberal coating of 6-Minute Epoxy to the

recessed gear wire to hold it in place.

NOTE: Before installing the Nose Gear Wire

clean it with rubbing alcohol and roughen

the section that will be glued to the wheel

pant before installing it.

15. Fill the joint seam and the Nose Gear wire

recess with Bondo

®

.

16. OPTIONAL: We added a short section of a

Robart dummy oleo strut to our prototype to give

a more scale appearance.

46

NOTE: See the wing plan for a view of the

strut ends.

❏❏1. Poke a T-pin through the hole you drilled

in the Wing Strut Mounting block out through the

Fuse side. Remember? You glued them behind

F-2 at the lower corner of the Fuse.

❏❏2. Measure and cut two shaped Wing Struts

to fit between the pin points and the Strut

attachment blocks buried in the wing. Bevel the

two ends to fit closely to the Wing and the Fuse.

❏❏3. Tr im the ABS Wing Strut Fairings to the

cut lines. Cut an airfoil shape to match the Strut

in the ends of a pair of Fairings. Slide the

Fairings over the Strut and check the fit between

the Wing and the Fuse. Use a round file or

Moto-Tool and sanding drum to shape the

outside ends of the Fairings to blend with the

Fuse and the Wing.

❏❏4. Center the lower Fairing over the pin

point and tape it in position around the edges.

While holding the Strut in approximately the

correct position, tack glue the lower Fairing to it

with a drop or two of CA.

❏❏5. Center the upper Fairing and Strut over

the mark you made during “Wing Construction”,

then tack glue it to the Strut.

❏❏6. While holding the Strut in a vise (or

propped up so it can’t fall over) fill the Fairing

cavity to the brim with a 30-Minute Epoxy and

microballoon mixture. When the epoxy has

cured, fill the other end in the same manner.

❏❏7. Grind or file the epoxy filler to match the

Fuse and Wing contours.

❏❏8. Tape the Strut assembly in position.

Carefully drill a 1/16” diameter hole in the

mounting block, perpendicular to the Fairing. If

you miss the Mounting Block, adjust the drill

angle and try again. Enlarge the correct hole in

only the Fairing to 1/8”. Drill a countersink

recess about 1/8” deep x 3/16” diameter to

accept a #4 x 3/4” sheet metal screw at each

Fairing attachment point.

Nearly every imperfection in your wood structure

will show through the covering material;

therefore, before covering, you should make a

final check of the entire structure. Fix any

“dings,” then sand the entire structure smooth,

using progressively finer grades of sandpaper.

Fuel proofing may be done after covering.

❏ 1. Fuelproof the engine compar tment, paying

special attention to the firewall. Either Grey (mix

black and white) K&B epoxy paint or 30-Minute

Epoxy is recommended.

❏ 2. Fuelproof any external exposed wood (eg:

flap pushrod exits). Matching brush-on K&B or

Perfect Paint works nicely here.

SPECIAL NOTE: Do not confuse this

procedure with “checking the C.G.” or

“balancing the airplane fore and aft.” That

very important step will be covered later in

the manual.

Now that you have the basic airframe nearly

completed, this is a good time to balance the

airplane laterally (side-to-side). Here is how to

do it:

❏ 1. Temporarily attach the wing and engine

(with muffler) to the fuselage.

❏ 2. With the wing level, lift the model by the

engine propeller shaft and the fin post (this may

require two people). Do this several times.

❏ 3. If one wing always drops when you lift the

model, it means that side is heavy. Balance by

gluing weight to the other wing tip.

NOTE: An airplane that has been laterally

balanced will track better in loops and

other maneuvers.

Balance the airplane laterally

Fuel proofing

Final sanding

FINISHING

Install wing struts and fairings

47

The Cessna 182 does not require much

painting to obtain the scheme shown on the box

as most of the finish is done with Top Flite

MonoKote. The only painting that is required are

the plastic parts such as the cowl, wheel pants,

fairings and wing struts. There are many other

schemes used on Cessnas but the one shown

on the box has proven to be highly visible in the

air and is “scale.”

The technique we will describe here is the

how the model pictured on the box was finished.

In general, it involves covering most of the model

with MonoKote, then priming and painting the

cowl and surface details. Make sure the

structure is smoothly sanded with 320-grit

sandpaper. Remove all dust from the structure

so the MonoKote will stick well.

Cover the aircraft with MonoKote using the

sequence below. Make sure the MonoKote is

thoroughly stuck down to the structure and all of

the edges are sealed. Use a Top Flite

MonoKote Hot Sock on your covering iron to

avoid scratching the MonoKote.

NOTE: When covering areas that involve sharp

junctions, (like the tail section) cut narrow strips

(3/8” to 1/2”) and apply them in the corners

before covering the major surfaces. The larger

pieces of MonoKote will overlap and capture

these smaller pieces. This technique also

bypasses the need to cut the MonoKote in these

areas after it has been applied.

DO NOT, under any circumstances, attempt

to cut the covering material after it has

been applied to the Fin and Stab, except

around the leading and trailing edges and

the tip. Modelers who do this often cut

through the covering and part-way into the

balsa stab skin. This can weaken the stab

to the point where it may fail in flight!

1. Tail Junction Strips (See note above.)

2. Rudder, left side

3. Rudder, right side

4. Bottom of elevators

5. Top of elevators

6. Stab bottom

7. Stab top

8. Fin, left side

9. Fin, right side

10. Fuse bottom

11. Fuse sides

12. Fuse top

13. Ends of ailerons and flaps

14. Bottom of ailerons and flaps

15. Top of ailerons and flaps

16. TE surfaces of wing (at ailerons and flaps)

17. Bottom of left wing panel

18. Bottom of right wing panel

19. Bottom of center panel (overlap covering

1/4” at the outer panels)

20. Top of left wing panel (overlap covering 1/4”

at wing LE)

21. Top of right wing panel (overlap covering

1/4” at the LE)

22. Top of center wing panel (overlap covering

1/4” at the outer panels)

Recommended covering sequence

piece of MonoKote film about 2” larger than

the area to be covered. Strip off the backing

and position the film. Tack the film down

smack dab in the middle of the Stab.

3. Pull (as in stretch) the film toward the tip,

sealing it to the balsa from the center out to

the tip. Work out any wrinkles and air

pockets as you proceed with a combination of

circular and back and forth motions.

4. Do the same procedure working the

opposite direction from the center.

5. Pull and seal diagonally toward the four

corners, always starting from the center. The

trick is to shrink out any wrinkles before you

seal the film to the surface.

6. Use a heat gun to heat and stretch the film

around curved surfaces like the stab and

rudder tips, while pulling on the excess

material. You may need to pull hard to get out

all of the wrinkles, so wear a glove if you need

to. Follow-up the heat gun with your sealing

iron to secure the bond.

The idea behind this approach (which can be

applied to any part of the model) is to pre-

stretch the MonoKote as it’s applied, and

remove the air pockets that can expand later

which cause the sags and wrinkles.

You can practically eliminate wrinkles caused

when the model is left out in the sun or in the

back of your car by following this technique

used in the Top Flite model shop.

1. Cover your sealing iron with a Top Flite Hot

Sock and turn the heat about 3/4 of the way to

the high setting.

2. Say we are going to cover the Stab — Cut a

Cover the structure with MonoKote

®

48

Paints used on the prototype:

We used

K&B Super Poxy

primer and color

coat for all plastic and Butyrate parts.

Surface Preparation

Mask the Rear Window with vinyl

electrician’s tape or Frisket

®

film (available at ar t

supply stores). Mix equal parts of K&B primer,

hardener and thinner, then stir the mixture well.

Spray the Cowl, Wheel Pants, Tail Cone, Rear

Window Frame, Fairings and Wing Struts with

a thin coat of primer. Add a second coat of

primer to areas that need it. Allow primer to dry

overnight before sanding. Wet sand the primer

with 320 and 400-grit sandpaper using a block

where possible. Most of the primer should be

sanded off.

Apply the colors

We sprayed the parts with K&B Super Poxy.

We custom mixed the paint to match the Dark

Red MonoKote by adding a little Yellow and

Black to their standard Red color. Keep a swatch

of MonoKote handy to test and compare the

color on a regular basis. We used a few drops of

Black and Blue mixed with White to match

MonoKote Gray.

NOTE: All paints dry slightly darker than

they appear while wet. Spray on the color

coat when satisfied with the match.

K&B paints are not difficult to use if you have

spray equipment. Use equal parts of the mixed

color paint (Part A) and gloss hardener (Part B),

stir well, then thin the mixture with K&B thinner

so that it can be sprayed. Use about 33 percent

of the total volume of parts A and B combined,

of K&B thinner.

We painted all Landing Gear assemblies

intact. The wheels were masked off with paper

stuffed into the Wheel Pants. By painting the

Landing Gear in this manner, all the parts

blended together much better than if we had

painted them separately.

DRAW DOOR AND HATCH OUTLINES

For drawing the door and baggage compartment

hatch outlines we used a Staedtler

®

Lumocolor

313 Permanent fine point pen. These pens are

available from engineering/drafting supply

stores. We suggest using this pen because it

works well on MonoKote and mistakes can be

removed with 70% rubbing alcohol. Your model

may be cleaned with most cleaners without

affecting the lines too badly. Remember, you can

easily touch-up outlines by using this method.

APPLY THE DECALS

NOTE: The decal sheet does not give you

everything you need to completely trim

your model, but it does provide all the

intricate detailing and difficult items.

1. Study the plans and the photos on the box to

determine the location of individual decals.

2. Thoroughly clean your airplane before

applying decals.

3. Trim the decals as close as practical. Carefully

apply the decals to the model. You can float the

decals into position by first applying soapy water

(two or three drops of dish detergent to a quart of

water) to the model’s surface, then smoothing on

the decal. Squeegee out excess water with a

credit card wrapped with a tissue. Blot the

surface dry and let the decal cure for at least 12

hours before running the engine.

NOTE: Certain text decals are provided and

may be used at your discretion.

The

“No Step” decals go on top of the main

wheel pants.

Position the template on the fuse using the

window as a reference point, then trace the

door outline with a Staedtler pen. You will have

to measure the location of the luggage hatch.

HOT TIP: Place a sheet of clear butyrate

plastic over the door and luggage hatch on the

plans. Score them onto the plastic with a

hobby knife. Bend the plastic along the score

to break it off cleanly. Sand the corner radii

with 320-grit sandpaper to smooth off any

burrs. Lay the plastic template back over the

plans and use a pen to trace the outline of the

window frame for reference. Cut a hole in the

center of the template so that you can tape it in

position without having any tape extending

over the edges.

Painting

49

❏ 1. Sand the inside of the cockpit with 320-grit

sandpaper. True up any uneven edges in the

cockpit area.

❏ 2. Assemble and paint your pilots. We used

1/5 scale Williams Brothers pilots which required

a 1” block under them to adjust their height. We

glued and screwed our pilots to a piece of 1/8”

light ply (not included) which was then screwed

to a a couple of blocks glued to the fuse sides.

❏3. Paint the interior of the cockpit flat black.

❏ 4. Install the Instrument Panel Decal. It may

be applied directly to the existing panel.

❏ 5. Add any other cockpit details of your

choosing at this time.

❏ 6. Trim the Front Windshield to the

cut-lines

then glue it to the model. We recommend using

RC-56 glue or 6-Minute Epoxy to glue on the

windshield, but if you have a favorite technique,

use it. You should remove a small strip of

MonoKote (if applicable) from under the

windshield’s frame for good glue adhesion. Use

masking tape to hold the windshield in place

while the glue sets.

❏ 7. Tr im the Side Windows to fit the openings

on both sides of the Cabin. Be sure to leave

about 1/8” extra plastic around the perimeter for

gluing. Test fit the Windows and trim the edges

as necessary. Glue them to the inside of the

Cabin Window Frame with RC-56 glue or epoxy.

❏1. We made a cutting jig out of scrap ply to aid

in trimming the ABS extrusions to the correct

length for each surface.

❏ 2. Cut enough pieces of a specific length to

do both sides of each control surface, then

change the jig for the next length. Keep each

piece close to the correct length (no more than

1/8”) to avoid waste.

❏ 3. Use the plans as a guide to draw the

location of each corrugation on the control

surface, then, while holding the corrugation in

position, place one drop of thin CA into the

opening at each end.

❏ 4. Trim off any excess with a single-edge

razor blade.

Just for the record, the patience required to do

this part of the model will be rewarded by an

extremely realistic finish and a lot of “oohs” and

“ahs” at the field.

Install control surface corrugations

For best results, stick the instrument decal to a

scrap piece of 1/32” to 1/16” plywood, trim it to

shape, then use spots of self-adhesive Velcro

(hook and loop) to hold it in place.

Cockpit finishing

50

A FEW WORDS ABOUT

OPTIONAL LIGHTING

Scale lights make a model like this Cessna come

to life. We added a rotating beacon, dual landing

lights and position lights (see page 5 for part

numbers). The rotating beacon is powered by a 9V

transistor battery and a miniature circuit board that

allows you to vary the “rotation” speed. The beacon

and position lights are turned on via a simple

toggle switch hidden within the cowling. The

landing lights are powered directly from the flight-

pack battery and are plugged into the receiver. By

activating a sixth channel, we can turn the lights on

and off from the transmitter. You could also “Y” the

landing lights into the throttle or flap servo so when

either is operated, the lights would come on.

Pockets built-in to the cowl greatly simplify

the installation of landing lights. The wiring was

modified to include a “Deans” connector and a

firewall-mounted plug so the cowling can be

removed without having to cut the wires.

The circuit boards and 9V battery were

wrapped in foam rubber and installed under the

servo tray along with other electronic components.

❏ 1. Epoxy the 5/16” x 3/4” x 7/8” hardwood

Servo Mounting Blocks to the die-cut 1/16” ply

Flap and Aileron Servo Hatches. Install the

Flap and Aileron servos as shown in the photo

and on the plans.

After “fishing”

the servo wires

through to the opening at the center of the wing,

plug them into a “Y” harness. Before

permanently screwing the servo hatches in

position, hook up your radio and set

centering

and

direction

of both sets of servos.

❏ 2. Dr ill 3/32” holes through the Ser vo Hatches

at each of the six punch marks. Position the

hatches in their respective openings, then drill

1/16” pilot holes into the hatch support rails.

Use #2 x 3/8” flat head sheet metal screws to

install the servo hatches.

❏ 3. Install the Aileron Horns in line with the

pushrod exits as shown on the plans. Drill 1/16”

holes into the Ailerons at the proper horn

locations. Screw the horns in place with #2 x

3/8” sheet metal screws.

NOTE: Put a couple of drops of thin CA

into each screw hole before reattaching

the horns.

❏ 3. Four .074 x 4” Threaded End Rods are

supplied to make the Flap and Aileron

pushrods. Screw a nylon Clevis and silicone

Retainer on each pushrod. The Flap pushrods

are connected to the servos using nylon

Faslinks

™

as shown in the photo. Aileron

pushrods are attached to the servos with solder

clevises. Hook up and adjust the Aileron and

Flap linkages. Refer to the Control Surface

Throws section f or mo vement recommendations.

❏ 4. Permanently install the Elevator (as

described on page 42 in Steps 3 & 4) and the

Rudder (page 43, Steps 4 & 5).

❏1. Wrap the Receiver and Battery in 1/2” foam

rubber (Hobbico HCAQ1050) securing the foam

with rubber bands.

❏ 2. Protect both components from fuel leakage

by sealing them in plastic wrap or plastic bags.

Seal the plastic closed with masking tape.

Install receiver, battery and antenna

Flap/aileron control hookup

FINAL HOOKUPS

AND CHECKS

51

❏ 3. We installed a pushrod tube (not included

in the kit) along the bottom inside surface of the

fuse, to serve as a conduit for the antenna. The

antenna was then inserted and pushed to the aft

end of the fuse.

❏4. The Receiver and Battery may be “wedged”

in place under the servo tray with additional

layers of foam rubber.

❏ 5. Make sure the control surfaces move in the

proper direction as illustrated in the following

sketches:

❏ 6. Adjust your pushrod hookups as necessar y

to provide the control surface movements shown.

NOTE: The surface throws and balance for

this aircraft have been extensively tested. We

are confident that they represent the settings

at which the Cessna 182 flies best. Please set

up your aircraft to the specifications listed

above. If, after a few flights, you would like to

adjust the throws to suit your tastes, that is

fine. The Cessna 182 has large elevators and

does not require much throw. Too much

throw can force the plane into a stall, so

remember... “More is not better. ”

NOTE: This section is VERY important and

must NOT be omitted! A model that is not

properly balanced will be unstable and

possibly unflyable.

❏ 1. Accurately mark the balance point on the

bottom of the wing on both sides of the fuselage.

The balance point is shown on the plan (CG),

and is located 4” (102 mm) back from the

leading edge at the wing root as shown in the

sketch and on the plans. This is the balance point

at which your model should be balanced for your

first flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by

shifting the balance up to 3/8” forward or 1/4”

back to change the flying characteristics. Moving

the balance forward may improve the

smoothness and tracking, but it may also require

more speed for takeoff and make it more difficult

Balance your model

CONTROL SURFACE THROWS:

We recommend the following control surface

throws:

NOTE: Throws are measured at the widest

part of the elevators, rudder, and ailerons.

NOTE: If your radio does not have “dual

rates”, then set up the control surfaces

to move at the high rate throws.

ELEVATOR: (High Rate) 1-1/16” up

1-1/16” down

(Low Rate) 3/4” up

3/4” down

RUDDER: (High Rate) 1” right

1” left

(Low Rate) 5/8” right

5/8” left

AILERONS: (High Rate) 5/8” up

5/8” down

(Low Rate) 1/2” up

1/2” down

FLAPS: (Takeoff) 1” down

(Landing) 2” down

TRIM MIXING: If your transmitter is

programmable for Flap to Elevator mixing we

determined during our flight tests that attitude

control was smoother with 3/16” of down

Elevator trim at half Flaps and 3/8” of down

elevator trim at full Flaps.

52

4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP

LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

CG

4"

to slow down for landing. Moving the balance aft

makes the model more agile, gives it a lighter

“feel” and often improves landing. In any case,

please start at the location we recommend

and do not at any time balance your model

outside the recommended range.

❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all

parts of the model installed (ready to fly) and an

empty fuel tank, suppor t the model at the

balance point.

❏ 3. Lift the model at the balance point. If the tail

drops when you lift, the model is “tail heavy” and

you must add weight* to the nose to balance. If the

nose drops, it is “nose heavy” and you must add

weight* to the tail to balance. NOTE: Nose weight

may be easily installed by using a spinner weight or

gluing lead weights into the engine compartment.

Tail weight may be added by using Great Planes

(GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead weights and, later, if

the balance proves to be OK you can open the

fuse bottom and glue these in permanently .

*If possible, attempt to balance the model by

changing the position of the receiver battery and

receiver first. If you are unable to obtain good

balance by doing so, then it will be necessar y to

add weight to the nose or tail to achieve the

proper balance point.

Follow the battery charging procedures in your

radio instruction manual. You should always

charge your transmitter and receiver batteries

the night before you go flying and at other times

as recommended by the radio manufacturer.

The best place to fly your R/C model is an AMA

(Academy of Model Aeronautics) chartered club

field. Ask your hobby shop dealer if there is such

a club in your area and join. Club fields are set

up for R/C flying and that makes your outing

safer and more enjoyable. The AMA also can tell

you the name of a club in your area. We

recommend that you join AMA and a local club

so you can have a safe place to fly and have

insurance to cover you in case of a flying

accident. (The AMA address is listed on page 3

of this instruction book).

If a club and flying site are not available,

you’ll need to find a large, grassy area at least 6

miles away from buildings, streets and other R/C

activities. A schoolyard may look inviting but it is

too close to people, power lines and possible

radio interference.

If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation

of R/C models, ask an experienced modeler to

check your radio installation and control surface

set-up. Engine operation must also be checked

and the engine “broken-in” on the ground by

running at least two tanks of fuel through the

engine. Follow the engine manufacturer’s

recommendations for break-in. Check to make

sure all screws remain tight, that the hinges are

secure, and that the prop is on tight.

Make it a habit: Check the operation of your

radio before you fly, every time you fly. With the

transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver

and transmitter on, you should be able to walk at

least 100 feet away from the model and still have

control. Have someone help you. Have them

stand by your model and, while you work the

controls, tell you what the various control

surfaces are doing.

Repeat this test with the engine running at

various speeds with an assistant holding the

model, using hand signals to show you what is

happening. If the control surfaces are not always

acting correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the

problem first.

NOTE: Failure to follow these safety

precautions may result in severe injury to

yourself and others.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away

from high heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very

flammable. Do not smoke near the engine or

fuel; and remember that the engine exhaust

gives off a great deal of deadly carbon

monoxide. Therefore, do not run the engine in

a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when

learning to operate engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running

engines.

Do not run the engine in an area of loose

gravel or sand; as the propeller may throw such

material in your face or eyes.

Keep your face and body, as well as all

spectators, away from the plane of rotation of the

propeller as you start and run the engine.

Keep items such as these away from the

prop: loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs,

long hair or loose objects (pencils, screwdrivers)

that may fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into

the prop.

Engine safety precautions

Range check your radio

Ground check the model

Find a safe place to fly

Charge the batteries

PRE-FLIGHT

53

Use a “chicken stick” device or electric

starter; follow instructions supplied with the

starter or stick. Make certain the glow plug clip

or connector is secure so that it will not pop off

or fall into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind

the rotating propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during

or directly after operation. Make sure fuel lines

are in good condition so fuel will not leak onto a

hot engine, causing a fire.

To stop the engine, cut off the fuel supply by

closing off the fuel line or follow the engine

manufacturer’s recommendations. Do not use

hands, fingers, or any body part to try to stop the

engine. Do not throw anything into the prop of a

running engine.

Read and abide by the following Academy of

Model Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned

events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations

until it has been proven to be airworthy by having

been previously successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than

approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an

airport without notifying the airport operator. I

will give right of way to, and avoid flying in the

proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary,

an observer shall be used to supervise flying to

avoid having models fly in the proximity of

full- scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety

rules for the flying site I use and I will not willfully

and deliberately fly my models in a careless,

reckless and/or dangerous manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified

with my name and address or AMA number, on

or in the model.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics

(any device that explodes, burns, or propels a

projectile of any kind).

1. I will have completed a successful radio

equipment ground check before the first flight of

a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the

presence of spectators until I become a qualified

flier, unless assisted by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff

away from the pit or spectator areas, and I will

not thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas,

unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio

control frequencies currently allowed by the

Federal Communications Commission...

The Top Flite Cessna 182 Skylane is a great-flying,

sport-scale air plane that flies smoothly and

predictably, yet is highly maneuverable. Compared

to other scale models, its flight characteristics are

quite docile and forgiving. It does not, however,

have the self-recovery characteristics of a pr imary

R/C trainer; therefore, you must either have

mastered the basics of R/C flying or obtained the

assistance of a competent R/C pilot to help you

until you are able to safely and competently pilot

the model yourself.

Balance your propellers carefully before flying.

An unbalanced prop is the single most

significant cause of damaging vibration. Not only

will engine mounting screws and bolts vibrate

out, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration

will also damage your radio receiver and battery.

Vibration will cause your fuel to foam, which will,

in turn, cause your engine to run rough or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop

Balancer (TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep

a Great Planes Fingertip Balancer (GPMQ5000)

in our flight box.

A fully cowled engine will tend to run at a higher

cylinder temperature than an un-cowled engine.

For this reason the fuel mixture should be set to

run the engine at about 200 rpm below peak

(maximum) speed. By running the engine

slightly rich you will help prevent dead stick

landings caused by overheating.

Fuel mixture adjustment

Balance the propeller

FLYING

Radio control

General

AMA SAFETY CODE

54

If you have dual rates on your transmitter, set the

switches to "high rate" for takeoff, especially

when taking off in a crosswind. Although this

model has good low-speed characteristics, you

should always build up as much speed as your

runway will permit before lifting off, as this will

give you a safety margin in case of a "flame-out."

When you first advance the throttle the plane will

usually turn left slightly. Correct by applying

sufficient right rudder to hold it straight down the

runway. When the plane has sufficient flying

speed, lift off by smoothly applying up elevator

(don't "jerk" it off into a steep climb!), and climb

out gradually. Do not use flaps for your initial

takeoff. After you have the feel of the Cessna,

takeoffs may be made with the flaps set at 50%.

We recommend that you take it easy with your

Cessna for the first several flights, gradually

"getting acquainted" with this realistic model as

your engine gets fully broken-in. Add and

practice one maneuver at a time, learning how

she behaves in each. For ultra-smooth flying and

normal maneuvers, we recommend using the

"low rate" settings as listed on page 52. "High

rate" elevator may be required for spins. Though

the full scale Cessna 182 is not rated for

aerobatics, the Top Flite 182 is capable of some

graceful aerobatic maneuvers. A beautiful barrel

roll may be accomplished by advancing the

throttle to full, then pulling the nose about 25

degrees above the horizon. Apply about 3/4

aileron in one direction, and let the 182 roll 360

degrees without touching any of the other

controls. If the proper roll rate is established, the

wings should come back to level with the plane

in a 20 to 25 degree dive. Reduce power and

gently raise the nose to level flight. Loops are

easily accomplished, but you should reduce

power as the plane goes over the top to reduce

stresses and enhance realism.

When it's time to land, fly a normal landing pattern

and approach. The Cessna 182 may bleed off

airspeed more rapidly than the sport planes you are

used to. F or this reason, be prepared to carry a little

power during approach. For your first landings, plan

to approach slightly faster than stall speed and flare

a few inches off the runwa y onto the main wheels .

FLAPS

Full flaps make the Skylane very steady in the

landing pattern, but just carry a little extra power to

make up for the extra drag. The extra drag of the

flaps also allows you to make shorter, steeper

approaches. Like the full scale 182, the Top Flite

182 needs to touch down with a nose high attitude

to avoid whacking the nose gear and skipping back

into the air. For this reason, landings with flaps

require a deliberate flare with high rate elevator to

raise the nose. Touch and go's and go-arounds can

be accomplished with full flaps, just use the elev ator

to establish a shallow climb. It is preferred to have

the flaps up or at "half" setting for takeoffs and

climb-outs because the plane will accelerate and

climb much better.

Have a ball! But always sta y in control and fly in

a safe manner .

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

If you enjoyed building the Top Flite Cessna 182

Skylane, try one of these outstanding .60 size

Gold Edition kits as your next project.

Top Flite AT-6 Texan (TOPA0130)

69” Wingspan, 7.5 - 10 Lbs.

Top Flite P-40E Warhawk (TOPA0120)

64” Wingspan, 8 - 10.5 Lbs.

Top Flite P-51D Mustang (TOPA0110)

65” Wingspan, 8 - 10 Lbs.

Top Flite F4U Corsair (TOPA0100)

62” Wingspan, 7 - 9.5 Lbs.

Landing

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C

AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice any

unusual sounds, (such as a low-pitched "buzz")

this may be an indication of control surface

"flutter." Any time you detect flutter you must

immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane

because flutter can quickly destroy its

components. Check all servo grommets for

deterioration (this will indicate which surface

fluttered), and make sure all pushrod linkages are

slop-free. If it fluttered once, it probably will flutter

again under similar circumstances unless you can

eliminate the slop or flexing in the linkages. Here

are some things which can result in flutter:

Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control horns

solidly; Sloppy fit of clevis pin in horn; Elasticity

present in flexible plastic pushrods; Side-play of

pushrod in guide tube caused by tight bends;

Sloppy fit of Z-bend in servo arm; Insufficient glue

used when gluing in the elevator joiner wire or

aileron torque rod; Excessive flexing of aileron,

caused by using a too-soft balsa aileron;

Excessive "play" or "bac klash" in servo gears; and

Insecure servo mounting.

Flying

1.20 4-STROKE NOTE: If you have installed a

1.20 4-stroke engine, throttle management on

takeoff and throughout the flight is highly

recommended! Your first few flights should be

made using slightly more than half throttle for

takeoff. Apply power gradually until you become

familiar with the Cessna’s flight characteristics.

Takeoff

55

2-VIEW DRAWING

Use this layout for trim scheme planning only.

Not suitable for scale documentation.