Top Flite A0300 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both

materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts

damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the

purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no

liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final

user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all

resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the

buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models

P.O. Box 788

Urbana, IL 61803

Technical Assistance - Call (217) 398-8970

www.top-flite.com

CES6P03 V1.3

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

™

USA

MADE IN

INTRODUCTION........................................... 3

PRECAUTIONS............................................. 4

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE EARLY

IN THE BUILDING SEQUENCE................... 4

Engine Selection........................................... 4

Flaps............................................................. 4

Operational Lighting ..................................... 5

Notes for Competition-Minded Modelers...... 5

Documentation ............................................. 5

Other Items Required .................................. 5

Suggested Supplies and Tools ..................... 5

Common Abbreviations................................ 6

Metric Conversions....................................... 6

Types of Wood.............................................. 6

DIE-CUT PATTERNS.................................7&8

Get Ready to Build ....................................... 9

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES ...................... 9

Build the Horizontal Stabilizer....................... 9

Tips for Making Wing & Stab Skins.............10

Build the Elevators.......................................12

Build the Fin.................................................14

Build the Rudder..........................................15

BUILD THE WING........................................16

Build the Center Section..............................16

Build Outer Wing Panels .............................18

Prepare the Polyhedral Braces....................20

Join the Wing Panels...................................21

Sheet the Bottom of the Wing......................22

Prepare the Wing Panels for the Flaps........24

Sheet the Top of the Wing ...........................24

Wing Completion.........................................25

Build the Flaps.............................................27

Fit the Flaps.................................................27

BUILD THE FUSELAGE..............................28

Build the Fuselage Bottom Frame...............28

Sheet the Fuselage Bottom Frame..............31

Fuel Proof and Paint the interior..................33

Install Pushrods and Servos........................33

Frame the Fuselage Top..............................33

Install Nose Gear Steering ..........................35

Install the Engine and Tank .........................36

1.20 Engine Servo Option ...........................37

Attach the Stab and Fin...............................37

Tips for Silver Soldering ..............................39

Complete the Fuse Top ...............................39

Mount the Wing to the Fuselage..................41

HINGE THE CONTROL SURFACES...........42

Hinge the Elevator, Rudder & Ailerons........42

FUSELAGE FINISHING TOUCHES ............43

Assemble the Cowl......................................44

Fit the Cowl to the Fuse and Engine ...........44

Assemble and Install Wheel Pants..............45

Install Wing Struts and Fairings...................47

FINISHING ...................................................47

Final Sanding...............................................47

Fuel Proofing...............................................47

Balance the Airplane Laterally.....................47

Cover the Structure with MonoKote

...........48

Painting........................................................49

Draw Door and Hatch Outlines....................49

Apply the Decals..........................................49

Cockpit Finishing.........................................50

Install Control Surface Corrugations............50

FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS...............51

Flap and Aileron Control Hookup ................51

Install Receiver, Battery, and Antenna.........51

Control Surface Throws...............................52

Balance your Model.....................................52

PRE-FLIGHT................................................53

AMA SAFETY CODE...................................54

FLYING.........................................................54

Balance the Propeller..................................54

Takeoff.........................................................55

Flying...........................................................55

Landing........................................................55

TWO-VIEW DRAWING.................Back Cover

TABLE OF CONTENTS AND BUILDING SEQUENCE

Your Cessna 182 Skylane is not a toy, but

rather a sophisticated, working model that func-

tions very much like an actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance, the

Skylane, if not assembled and operated correct-

ly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or

spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience

totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get

experienced, knowledgeable help with

assembly and during your first flights. You’ll

learn faster and avoid risking your model before

you’re truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop

has information about flying clubs in your area

whose membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of

Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than

2,500 chartered clubs across the country.

Instructor training programs and insured newcom-

er training are availab le through an y one of them.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free

phone number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

(800) 435-9262

Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite

GOLD

EDITION

Cessna 182 Skylane.

The Top Flite 182 Skylane makes an excel-

lent sport scale competition aircraft. Its large

size and accurate scale outline afford the oppor-

tunity for the scale builder to

go all out

with the

surface details and finish. With the abundance of

Cessna 182s in airpor ts around the world, find-

ing a full-scale plane to document and duplicate

for competition shouldn’t present a problem.

The Top Flite Cessna 182 has demonstrated

flight characteristics rarely found in any scale

model. Anyone who has mastered a trainer with

ailerons should be able to fly this model

with a high level of proficiency from the first

flight. It handles very much like a full-size

Cessna—

smooth and predictable

. Our 11 pound

prototype was flown with an O. S. .61SF

2-stroke and 12 x 6 prop throughout much of its

flight testing. This combination provided more

than ample power for all normal flight maneuvers

and aerobatics.

Because of its 81” wingspan, the Top Flite

Cessna 182 is eligible to be entered at IMAA*

events. In order to be IMAA

-legal,

some of the

control components and hardware may need to

be replaced to conform to Giant Scale rules

even though

this

model does not require heavy

duty hookups.

The cockpit interior has been engineered to

be free of obstructions, servos and pushrods.

This feature provides the modeler with the space

to build a scale interior with front and rear seats,

baggage compartment, and full figure pilot.

Simulated Fowler Flaps allow beautifully slow

approaches and landings. Half flap takeoffs

require less ground roll to rotate and allow a fair-

ly steep climb over obstacles.

The nose of this model has been engineered

to allow you to completely hide most 2-stroke

engines in the recommended range. A Top Flite

2-stroke muffler with headers to fit several of the

recommended engines have been specifically

designed for and tested in the Skylane and other

Top Flite models. This muffler provides good

sound reduction while fitting entirely inside the

cowling. More information on the recommended

engines and related items can be found in the

Engine Selection Section

on page 4.

* IMAA is the

International Miniature Aircraft

Association

, an organization that promotes

non-competitive flying of giant scale models.

IMAA

International Miniature Aircraft Association

205 S. Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

Please inspect all parts carefully before

starting to build! If any parts are missing,

broken or defective, or if you have any ques-

tions about building or flying this model,

please call us at (217) 398-8970 and we’ll be

glad to help. If you are calling for replace-

ment parts, please look up the part numbers

and the kit identification number (stamped

on the end of the carton) and have them

ready when calling.

INTRODUCTION

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS –

FOLLOW THIS IMPOR-

TANT

SAFETY PRECAUTION

1. You must build the plane according to the

plans and instructions. Do not alter or modify

the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe

or unflyable model. In a few cases the plans

and instructions may differ slightly from the

photos. In those instances you should

assume the plans and written instructions

are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true and

strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in

first-class condition, a correctly-sized engine

and correct components (fuel tank, wheels,

etc.) throughout your building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other

components so that the model operates properly

on the ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model

before the first and each successive flight to

ensure that all equipment is operating, and you

must make certain that the model has remained

structurally sound. Be sure to check external

nylon clevises often and replace them if they

show signs of wear.

6. You must fly the model only with the compe-

tent help of a well experienced R/C pilot if you are

not already an experienced R/C pilot at this time.

Remember: Take your time and follow direc-

tions to end up with a well-built model that is

straight and true.

The prototype Skylane that weighed 11

pounds with all of the options, including flaps

and operational lighting, was flown with an OS

.61 SF. This engine provided excellent per-

formance and more than enough power,

even in gusty winds. Although larger engines

can be used to power this model, the extra

horsepower is not needed.

The included adjustable engine mount will

hold a range of engines from .60 2-stroke

through 1.20 4-stroke.

A special Top Flite header and muffler are

available that will fit inside your cowling. They

are primarily designed for 2-stroke engines

mounted horizontally, as used on our prototype.

Header for O.S .61SF (TOPQ7920)

Header for SuperTigre S61K & S75K

(TOPQ7925)

Muffler for above (TOPQ7916)

OPTIONAL FLAPS

This model is designed to incorporate

scale flaps; however, be assured that flaps are

optional and not necessary for an excellent

flying experience. The only difference is, with-

out flaps the takeoff roll is a little longer and

the landing speed is slightly faster.

The flaps are not difficult to assemble, but

they do require good craftsmanship if they are

to fit well. They add nicely to the model’s flight

characteristics and scale appearance while

causing no bad effects. Only slight trim correc-

tion is needed when they are used with the rec-

ommended throws. The flaps add drag and lift

to the model on landing approaches, which

gives the plane a very steady, locked-in feel.

ENGINE SELECTION

The recommended engine size range is as

follows:

.60 to .91 cu. in. 2-stroke

.90 to 1.20 cu. in. 4-stroke

The Cessna 182 Skylane will fly well with

any of the recommended engines. The

4-stroke engines and most .90 2-stroke

engines will turn a larger prop at lower rpm.

This is often desirable for scale realism. Many

.60 2-stroke engines produce about as much

horsepower as the popular .90 2-stroke

engines. Both are fine choices for the Skylane.

If you use a .60 2-stroke, a Schnuerle-por ted

engine is preferred.

DECISIONS YOU MUST

MAKE EARLY IN THE

BUILDING SEQUENCE

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can pro-

vide you with a top quality kit and great

instructions, but ultimately the quality and flya-

bility of your finished model depends on how

you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way

guarantee the performance of your completed

model, and no representations are expressed

or implied as to the performance or safety of

your completed model.

PRECAUTIONS

If you plan to compete with the trim scheme

shown on the box, here are a few things

to consider:

The full-size Cessna 182 “Q” Skylane,

N735PE, that was modeled for this kit is hang-

ered near Birmingham, Alabama. The 182Q ver-

sion was manufactured from 1977 through 1980.

During this time 2,540 were built. We designed

our model from Cessna’s own 1979 3-view draw-

ings for accurate scale outline.

If you plan to enter your Skylane in competi-

tion, this kit will qualify for the Sport Scale cate-

gory without any changes. Always work from

photos of a full-size aircraft when finishing your

model because that is what you will need for

judging documentation. For dimensional accura-

cy, the Top Flite Cessna 182 is exactly 1:5

scale.

❏ 4 to 6 channel radio with 5 to 7 servos.

❏ Engine (see page 4)

❏ Propellers (see engine instructions for

recommended sizes).

❏ 1 or 2 Pilot figures (1/5 scale recommended)

❏ Fuel Tank (Great Planes

12 oz. GPMQ4105

recommended)

❏ 3-1/4” Main Wheels (2) (Dubro 325T)

❏ 2-3/4” Nose wheel (1) (Dubro 275T)

❏ (2) 3/16” Wheel Collars (Great Planes

GPMQ4308 recommended)

❏ Top Flite Super MonoKote

(3-4 rolls, See

Finishing

section)

❏ Paint (see

Finishing

section)

❏ 24” Silicone Fuel Tubing (Great Planes

GPMQ4131 recommended)

❏ 1/2” Latex Foam Rubber Padding (Hobbico

HCAQ1050 recommended)

❏ 2-1/4” Spinner

(Top Flite TOPQ5405 recommended)

Optional:

❏ Fuel Filler Valve (Great Planes GPMQ4160

recommended)

❏ (6) Large Hinge Points (for flaps) (Robart

#309 recommended)

❏ Top Flite Header & In-Cowl Muffler (See

page 4 for more information)

❏ Ram #03 Landing Lights (RAMQ2303)

❏ Ram #04 Rotating Beacon (RAMQ2304)

❏ Ram #14 Big Airplane Navigation Lights

(RAMQ2314)

❏ Robart Robostrut Nosegear (ROBQ1707) or

❏ Robart Front Wheel Strut Cover

(ROBQ2703)

We recommend Top Flite Supreme

™

CAs

and Epoxies

❏ (2) 2 oz. CA (Thin) (TOPR1003)

❏ (2) 2 oz. CA+(Medium) (TOPR1008)

❏ 1 oz. CA- (Thick) (TOPR1011)

❏ 6-Minute Epoxy (TOPR1040)

❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (TOPR1043)

❏ Titebond

Wood Glue (optional)

❏ Hand or Electric Drill

❏ Drill Bits: 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”,

13/64”, 1/4”, 15/64”

❏ Soldering Iron and Silver Solder

❏ Sealing Iron (Top Flite)

❏ Heat Gun (Top Flite)

❏ Hobby Saw (X-ACTO

Razor Saw)

❏ Hobby Knife, #11 Blades

❏ Razor Plane (Master Airscrew)

❏ Pliers

❏ Screwdrivers (Phillips and flatblade)

❏ Round file (or similar tool)

❏ T-Pins (short & long)

❏ String

❏ Straightedge with scale

SUGGESTED SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

DOCUMENTATION

Three-view drawings and photo packs of

N735PE and other Cessna 182’s are available

from:

Scale Model Research,

3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

(714) 979-8058

NOTES FOR COMPETITION

MINDED MODELERS

The flaps require one extra channel, a

Y-harness, and two standard servos. They are

a highly recommended

fun option

for those who

wish to install them. More information on the

use of the flaps may be found in the “Flying”

section.

OPERATIONAL LIGHTING

We installed an operational lighting system

for added realism and scale appearance. If you

plan to use a similar system you should route

the wiring before enclosing the wing and fin. In

lieu of installing the actual wires, string can be

taped into position for use in pulling the wires

through the structure after covering. We used

a separate servo connected to the

retract

cir-

cuit of the radio (instead of “Y-ing” into the flap

servo) to operate the landing lights. The rotat-

ing beacon and position lights were connected

to a hidden toggle switch. (See

Optional

Lighting

in the next section)

❏ Nylon Strapping Tape

(required for bending sheeting)

❏ Masking Tape (required for construction)

❏ Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*

❏ T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)

❏ Chalk Stick (local drug store)

❏ Waxed Paper

❏ Thin Cardstock or a File Folder

❏ Lightweight Balsa Filler, such as Hobbico

HobbyLite

™

❏ 1/4-20 and 8-32 Taps and Tap Wrench

❏ Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol (70%)

❏ Auto Body Filler (Bondo

or similar)

❏ Dremel

Moto-Tool

or similar (optional)

*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11”

T-Bar sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #150

and #220-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is

required for almost any sanding task. Custom

sanding blocks can be made from balsa for

sanding hard to reach spots. We also keep

some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for

finish sanding before covering.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS

BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:

Deg = Degrees

Elev = Elevator

Fuse = Fuselage

LE = Leading Edge (front)

LG = Landing Gear

Lt = Left

Ply = Plywood

Rt = Right

Stab = Stabilizer

TE = Trailing Edge (rear)

”

= Inches

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

Metric Conversion Chart

Inches x 25.4 = mm (conversion factor)

1/64” = .4 mm

1/32” = .8 mm

1/16” = 1.6 mm

3/32” = 2.4 mm

1/8” = 3.2 mm

5/32” = 4.0 mm

3/16” = 4.8 mm

1/4” = 6.4 mm

3/8” = 9.5 mm

1/2” = 12.7 mm

5/8” = 15.9 mm

3/4” = 19.0 mm

1” = 25.4 mm

2” = 50.8 mm

3” = 76.2 mm

6” = 152.4 mm

12” = 304.8 mm

18” = 457.2 mm

21” = 533.4 mm

24” = 609.6 mm

30” = 762.0 mm

36” = 914.4 mm

1/4" X 2-3/4" X 15" BALSA

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

FIN TE

STAB TE

CES6S02

STAB TE

1 REQ.

CES6F04

1/8" X 6-5/8" X 19" PLY

NOSE GEAR

DOUBLER

1/8" X 6-5/8" X 19" PLY

CES6F03

3/32" X 3" X 21" BALSA

SIDE SUPPORTS

FIREWALL

WINDOW

FRAME

CES6F02

CABIN SIDE

TOP

3/32" X 3" X 18" BALSA

HORIZONTAL STAB

RIBS “S’s”

CES6F01

1 REQ.

SERVO

TRAY

2 REQ.

CABIN SIDE

BOTTOM

2 REQ.

DORSAL FIN

FORMERS

CES6F08

1/8" X 5-3/4" X 19" PLY

SADDLE

WING SADDLE BRACE

1/8" X 5-3/4" X 19" PLY

STAB

CES6F07

TANK ROOF

1/8" X 5-3/4" X 19" PLY

CES6F06

GUIDE

1/8" X 5-3/4" X 19" PLY

FIN DRILL

CES6F05

INSTRUMENT PANEL

FUSE KEEL

REINFORCEMENT

HORN

2 REQ.

1 REQ.

3/32" X 3" X 24" BALSA

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

CES6S01

1/8" X 2-3/4" X 21" BALSA

VERTICAL FIN

RIBS “V’s”

RIBS “R’s”

AFT

OUTER

SPAR

RUDDER

CES6W06

AFT

INNER SPAR

GUSSETS

2 REQ.

3/32" X 3" X 21" BALSA

CES6W05

3/32" X 3" X 30" BALSA

CES6W04

3/32" X 3" X 30" BALSA

CES6W03

3/32" X 3" X 30" BALSA

CES6W02

1/16" X 3-3/4" X 11-3/4" PLY

HATCH

CES6W01

AILERON

FLAP

FLAP HORN

2 REQ.

1 REQ.

PANT SPACERS

MAIN WHEEL

GUSSET

FIN

PLATES

WING BOLT

GUIDE PARTS

FLAP DRILL

GUSSET

STAB

ELEVATOR

RIBS “E’s”

2 REQ.

MAIN WHEEL PANT

AXLE SUPPORT

LOWER SPAR

JOINER

CES6W08

CES6W10

1/8" X 3-3/4" X 19" PLY

OUTER DIHEDRAL

BRACE PARTS

WING JIG

PARTS

CENTER LE

CES6W09

1/8" X 2-3/4" X 21" BALSA

JOINER (SJ)

STAB

DIHEDRAL

GAUGE

CENTER AFT SPAR

1/8" X 2-3/4" X 21" BALSA

TOP BOTTOM

COWL RING

UPPER SPAR

CES6W07

BRACE PARTS

POLYHEDRAL

2 REQ.

GUIDE PARTS

FLAP DRILL

1 REQ.

2 REQ.

1 REQ.

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans

inside-out to make them lie flat.

2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, fig-

ure out the name of each part by comparing it

with the plans and the parts list included with this

kit. Using a felt tip or ball point pen, lightly write

the part name or size on each piece to avoid

confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown

on pages 7 and 8 to identify the die-cut parts and

mark them before removing them from the

sheet. Save all scraps. If any of the die-cut parts

are difficult to punch out, do not force them!

Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby knife.

After punching out the die-cut parts, use your T-

Bar or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to

remove any die-cutting irregularities.

3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate

them into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing,

fin, stab (stabilizer), and hardware.

1. Work on a flat surface over the plans covered

with waxed paper. Refer to the plans to identify

the parts and their locations.

The plans may be

cut apart if space is a problem.

2. Punch out both sets of the die-cut 3/32” balsa

ribs S-1 through S-7. There is a jig tab on the

bottom edge of each of these ribs. If any of

these break off, carefully glue them back on with

a drop of thin CA. Lightly sand any imperfec-

tions. You may need to finish cutting the notch in

the forward portion of S-1 for the Stab Joiner

(SJ) with a knife. Use a pen to mark the exten-

sions of the bottom edge of the ribs across the

fore and aft ends of the jig tabs. These marks

will help when you trim off the jig tabs later.

3. The stab Trailing Edges (S) are die-cut from

1/4” balsa. Since some crushing may occur dur-

ing die-cutting wood of this thickness, they are

supplied slightly long and can be trimmed. True

up all edges of these pieces with a T-bar.

❏❏4. Cut the stab Leading Edges (LE’s) to

length from the 1/4” x 15” tapered balsa stock.

They should be about 1/4” longer than the length

shown on the plans for the stab LE.

❏❏5. Center the 1/2” x 5/8” x 9-3/4” balsa TE

Center Brace over the plans and pin it in place.

Use a triangle and pen to mark the inboard ends

of the Stab TE. Remove the TE Center Brace

from the building board.

❏❏6. Apply thick CA to one half of the TE

Center Brace, then align the inboard end of a

Stab TE with the reference line you just drew.

Glue the TE Center Brace in position. The TE

Center Brace must be centered on the Stab

TE. Repeat this operation for the other half of

the TE, then use long T-pins to pin the assembly

over the plans.

NOTE: Position the outboard ends of the

TE about 1/2” above the board. The TE

Center Brace should be raised about 3/8”.

(See next photo.)

Build the horizontal stabilizer

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

Zipper-top food storage bags are a handy

way to store your small parts as you sor t, iden-

tify, and separate them into sub-assemblies.

Get ready to build

FIN / STAB LE

❏❏7. Pin the left and right S-3 and S-6 ribs to

the building board over their locations on the

plans. Adjust the height of the Stab TE to align it

evenly with the aft edge of the ribs. Glue the ribs

to the Stab TE and to the TE Center Brace with

thin CA.

❏❏8. Align and glue all of the remaining Stab

ribs to the TE.

❏❏9. Glue the two die-cut 3/32” balsa Stab

Gussets into the junction of S-6 and the Stab

TE. The Gussets should be centered between

the top and bottom of the ribs and Stab TE. Glue

the die-cut 1/8” ply Forward Stab Brace into the

slots in the S-1 ribs and to the inside edges of

the S-2 ribs.

❏❏10. Sand one end of two shaped balsa

Stab LE’s to exactly match the angle at the cen-

ter of the Stab.

Leave the outboard ends long for

the time being.

Center the LE (vertically) on the

front of the ribs, then tack glue the Stab LE’s to

the forward edge of ribs S-1 and S-6 and to the

Forward Stab Brace (this will align the LE). Glue

the remaining ribs to the LE, checking for

straightness as you proceed.

❏❏11. Glue both S-7 ribs to the Stab LE.

❏❏12. Glue the 1/4” x 1/2” x 7/8” balsa Stab

Sub TE to the aft edge of S-7 and to the side of

S-6. Make sure that the Stab Sub TE is posi-

tioned exactly 90 degrees to S-6.

❏❏13. Tr im the Stab LE’s flush with the S-7’s.

Reinforce all of the joints with medium CA.

Sand the tips of the LE, sub TE, and TE flush

with S-7 and S-6.

❏❏14. Remove the pins, then lightly sand the

top surface of the stab frame to blend all parts

and remove any excess CA. Take care not to

change the shape of the airfoil.

HOW TO MAKE WING AND STAB SKINS

A. Wherever practical, pre-join the balsa

sheets to make a “skin” before attaching them

to the structure.

B. Many modelers like to sort the wood so they

can put the best wood with the most even

grain structure on the top of the wing and stab.

C. Make your skin larger than needed to allow

Lightly sand a bevel along the front edge of

the Stab ribs to match the sweep angle of the

LE. This will give you a better fit and a stronger

glue joint.

❏❏15. Make two 6”x 30” stab skin planks

from four 1/16” x 3” x 30” balsa sheets. From

these planks, cut four stab skins. See the sketch

for the proper layout on the wood. Refer to the

plans for the exact shapes and sizes, but

remember to make the skins slightly oversize.

❏❏16. Pin the stab structure to your building

surface using pins only at the tips and diagonally

under the LE & TE. Make sure that the jig tabs

are flat on the building surface. Don’t hide the

pins under the skin.

❏❏17. Use the off-cut 1/16” material from the

skin planks to make a 1” wide cross-grain strip to

fit between the S-1’s from the LE to the TE. Glue

the strip in place between the ribs, flush with the

top edge.

❏❏18. Test-fit the skins over the stab frame.

Make sure the skins meet flush at the center.

Adjust them with a sanding block if necessary.

Apply an even bead of medium or thick CA to

the upward-facing edges on one side of the

frame. Place a skin in its proper position and

press it firmly down until the glue has set.

Repeat this step for the other top skin. Trim off

the excess balsa, but save any big scraps for

use when making the elevators.

❏❏19. Remove the stab from the building board.

Tr im off the jig tabs with a sharp knife. Trim and

blend the LE and TE to the ribs as you did before.

Check all glue joints, adding glue as necessary.

❏❏20. Cut another 1” wide cross-grain strip

from 1/16” x 6” off-cut balsa sheeting and glue it

between the two S-1 ribs flush with their bottom

edges.

❏❏21. It’s important to get a good glue bond

between the stab frame and the bottom stab

skins. Apply a heavy bead of medium or thick

for misalignment. On a large surface such as

the wing, 3/8” extra is suggested.

D. To make skins, the following steps

are suggested:

1. Tr ue up the edges of the sheets with a

metal straightedge and a sharp knife or a

“T-Bar” sanding block.

2. Test-fit the sheets together to make sure

they match well.

3. METHOD “A”: Edge glue the sheets

together with thin CA, over a flat surface cov-

ered with waxed paper. A quick wipe of the

joint with a fresh paper towel will remove

excess glue and make sanding easier. Mark

the poorest surface to identify it as the “inside”

surface.

METHOD “B”: Edge glue the sheets

together with Titebond

wood glue. (Titebond

is easier to sand and won’t leave a ridge at the

seam, as CA is prone to do.) Smear the glue

lightly along an edge with your finger, then join

the sheets over a flat (waxed paper covered)

building board. Pin the sheets to the board to

hold them together. Wipe off any excess glue

before it dries.

4. Place the skin on a large flat surface

and sand it with a large flat sanding block and

fresh, sharp 220 paper. Use light pressure and

a brisk circular motion.

5. Tr im the perimeter of the sheet to even

things out.

STAB SKIN

13"12-1/8"

12-1/8"13"

CA to all of the

upward facing

edges on one side

of the stab frame. Place a skin on the frame and

hold it in place with your hands until the glue

sets. Repeat this for the other bottom skin. Be

careful not to bend or twist the stab during

this step.

❏❏22. Tr im off the excess balsa from around

the perimeter of the stab. True up the ends of

the stab with a sanding block. Round the LE of

the stab to match the cross section on the plan.

❏❏1. Cut two 1/16” x 3” x 36” balsa sheets to

make four 15” long sheets. Refer to the sketch and

the elevator plans, then glue the leftover balsa

“wedges” that you cut from the stab skins to the 15”

sheets. These joined sheets will be used to make

the top and bottom Elevator skins.

❏❏2. Use the pattern on the plans to cut four

Elevator skins. Sort the skins so that the best

surfaces will be facing outward, and on the top.

❏❏3. Cover the elevator plan with waxed

paper, then pin a skin in position. Use the “tic”

marks on the plan to draw the rib locations on

the skin.

❏❏4. Draw a line along the length of the skin’s

TE 3/8” in from the edge. Remove the skin from

the building board, then holding it along the

edge of your work bench, sand a taper from the

line towards the TE so that the TE will be

approximately 1/32” thick.

❏❏5. Locate the 3/8” x 3/4” x 11-5/8” shaped

balsa Elevator LE. Draw two lines, 1/32” in from

each edge, on one side of the LE as shown in

the photo. Use the lines as a reference to taper

the top and bottom of the LE toward the elevator

TE with a T-bar sander. Proceed carefully,

checking your progress against the height of

the elevator ribs at each location.

❏❏6. Glue the LE to the inside surface of the the

elevator skin, flush with the forward edge of the

skin. Glue the 3/32” die-cut balsa ribs (E-1 through

E-7) to the skin and to the LE with thin CA.

❏❏7. Test fit a 1/2” x 1” x 1-5/8” balsa Torque

Rod block between ribs E-1 and E-2. Sand the

ends, if necessary, for a good fit. Sand a slight

angle on the forward edge of the Torque Rod

Build the elevators

SCRAP

ELEVATOR SKIN

15"

3/8"

1/32"

block (the one that will contact the elevator’s LE)

to match the angle of the LE. Glue the Torque

Rod block in position when you are satisfied with

the fit.

❏❏8. Carefully sand the top of the Torque Rod

block flush with the taper of the ribs.

❏❏9. Mark and sand the

inside

TE of an ele-

vator skin as you did in step 4. Apply a bead of

thick CA to LE, TE, and all ribs, then glue the top

skin into position. Hold the assembly flat until the

CA cures.

❏❏10. True up all edges with a T-bar or

sanding block.

❏❏11. Test fit the Stab, Elevator, 5/8” x 7/8” x

6-1/2” shaped balsa Stab Tip, and the 5/8” x

27/32” x 1-9/16” balsa Elevator Balance Tab

together. Make any adjustments with light sand-

ing. Mark the

“break”

between the Stab and the

Elevator on the Stab Tip. Cut the Stab Tip apart

along this line.

❏❏12. Glue the forward balsa Stab Tips

in position.

❏❏13. Glue the Elevator Balance Tab flush

with the Elevator Tip. Center the Stab Tip on the

outboard end of the Elevator, before using thick

CA to glue in place. Make sure that both the

Elevator LE and TE are centered before the

CA cures.

❏❏14. Tape the elevator assembly to the Stab.

Make sure that the Stab Tip and Elevator

Balance Tab are flush along the outside edge.

There should be a 1/32”-1/16” gap between the

Elevator Balance Tab and the Stab. If not, use

your T-bar sander to correct the problem by

alternately sanding the inside edges of the

Elevator Balance Tab and the Stab.

❏❏15. When satisfied with the fit, use a razor

plane and sanding block to shape the Stab Tip

to blend with the Elevator and Stab.

❏❏16. Sand a radius around the Balance Tab

as shown in the photo.

❏❏17. Sand a radius around the outboard

edges of the Stab and Elevator Tip.

❏ 18. Tape the Elevators to the Stab making

sure that you have the correct clearance around

the Balance Tabs. Hold the bent 1/8” Elevator

Joiner Wire and Horn up to the Elevator and

mark the location of the Joiner Wire holes that

will be perpendicular to the hinge line (see the

plans for the joiner location).

NOTE: The Elevator Horn is off-center.

When looking at the top surface of the

Stab, the Horn will be to the right of

Stab center.

❏ 19. Drill 9/64” holes in the elevators for the

Joiner wire. Cut slots inboard of the holes to

allow the wire to be inset into the elevators, flush

with the LE. Sand the Elevator LE to a “V”

shape to allow for Elevator travel — refer to the

plans for the correct angle.

❏ 20. Test-fit, but do not glue the joiner wire into

the Elevators. Check to see that the Elevators

align with each other properly and that they fit

the Stab without binding. Make adjustments by

removing the Joiner Wire and then bending it,

if required.

❏ 1. Cover the Fin/Rudder section of the plans

with waxed paper.

❏ 2. Punch out the die-cut 3/32” balsa ribs V-1

through V-6. Be sure to preserve their jig tabs.

NOTE:

If you plan to install an operational

beacon light on top of the Fin drill a 3/16”

hole through the center (front to back, top

to bottom) of each rib. This hole will pro-

vide a passage for the wiring.

❏ 3. Cut a 15” length of the tapered 1/4” balsa

Stabilizer/Fin LE stock to match the plans

exactly, as the length of the LE sets the angle of

the fin.

Notice that the Fin LE fits into a notch on

top of F-8.

❏ 4. Punch out the die-cut 1/4” balsa Fin TE

and lightly sand the edges to touch them up.

Sand (or cut) the tips to match the sweep angle

as shown on the plans.

❏ 5. Sand an angle on the ends of each rib to

match the sweep angle of the LE and TE. Pin

ribs V-1 and V-6 to the building board over their

proper locations. Center the LE on the front of

the ribs and glue it in place. Center the Fin TE

on the aft edge of the ribs and glue it in place.

❏ 6. Put r ibs V-2 through V-5 into their places

and glue them to the LE and TE. Remember, all

jig tabs should contact the work surface.

❏ 7. Glue the die-cut 3/32” balsa Fin Gusset

into the corner of V-6 and the Trailing Edge.

❏ 8. Apply extra CA+ glue to any joints that do

not appear to be well glued.

❏ 9. Blend the LE to match the ribs on the

upward facing (left) fin side. Sand the TE, if nec-

essary, to blend smoothly with the ribs.

❏ 10. Make a skin for each side of the fin using

1/16” x 3” x 30” balsa sheet. Leave excess balsa

on one edge of the skin so it overhangs past

V-1 about 5/8”; this will allow fitting to the stab

later. With the structure flat on the table, glue on

the left (upward-facing) skin.

Build the fin

FIN SKIN

30"

❏ 11. Remove the fin from the building board

and trim off the jig tabs. Blend the LE and TE to

the ribs on the right side of the fin.

NOTE:

If you plan to route wiring for a bea-

con through the fin, install a 15” length of

outer pushrod tube (not supplied) through

the 3/16” holes you drilled in step #2. Glue it

in position with medium CA, leaving the

excess tube protruding from V-1.

❏ 12. Use medium or thick CA to glue on the

right side skin. Be sure to get a good bond

between the ribs and the skin.

❏ 13. True up the edges of the fin sheeting with

a sanding block. Shape the LE to match the

cross section on the plans. Don’t trim the bottom

edge of the sheeting at this time.

❏ 14. Glue the shaped 3/4” balsa Fin Tip to the

top of the fin. Shaping should be done later, with

the fin taped to the rudder.

NOTE:

If adding a beacon light, drill a hole

through the top of the Fin Tip that aligns with

the wiring tube before you glue it in place.

❏ 1. Use one 1/16” x 3” x 30 balsa sheet to

make two rudder skins, using the rudder skin

pattern on the wing plan. You will need to edge

glue a small wedge shaped piece of sheeting to

the TE of the skin to provide the correct width.

You should have more than enough material left

over from the previous assemblies to accomplish

this step.

❏ 2. Pin one of the rudder skins to the (wax

paper covered) plans and draw the location of

each rib using the “tic” marks as a guide. Draw a

line the length of the rudder skin, 3/8” in from the

aft edge, as you did with the elevators. Remove

the rudder skin from the board and taper the aft

edge to 1/32”. Taper the aft edge of the other

rudder skin to 1/32”. (See next photo.)

❏ 3. Locate the 3/8” x 3/4” x 12” tapered balsa

rudder LE. Cut the tips to match the sweep

angle of the rudder. Lightly sand both sides of

the rudder LE to match the angle toward the aft

edge of the rudder.

❏ 4. Re-pin the rudder skin over the plans. Glue

the rudder LE to the surface of the rudder skin,

flush with the front edge, using medium CA. The

wide end of the rudder LE is at the bottom end

of the rudder.

❏ 5. Slightly taper the forward edge of the rudder

ribs R-1 through R-6 to match the sweep angle of

the rudder LE, then glue them in position over

the location lines that you drew in step #2.

❏ 6. Shape one end of the 1/4” x 1/2” x 1-1/4”

balsa rudder Torque Block to match the angle

at the intersection of the rudder LE and R-1.

Glue the Torque Block in position when satisfied

with the fit.

❏ 7. Remo v e the rudder assembly from the board,

then lightly sand the frame to blend all joints. Glue

the second rudder skin to the frame with thick CA.

To prevent twists, be sure that the assembly is held

on a flat surface while the CA cures.

Build the rudder

EXCESS

30"

❏8. True up all rudder edges with a sanding b lock.

❏ 9. Position the rudder against the TE of the fin

with the top of the rudder 1/32” above the top

of the main body of the fin. Tape the fin and

rudder securely together with masking tape.

NOTE: Before proceeding, study the photo

at step 15 to see what you will accomplish

in the next six steps.

❏ 10. Test fit the 3/4” shaped balsa Rudder Tip

on top of the rudder. It should butt against the

Fin Tip squarely, and have a clearance gap of

1/32” above the fin. Make adjustments with a

sanding block if needed.

❏ 11. Use thick CA to glue the Rudder Tip to the

rudder. Be sure that everything is centered

before the CA cures.

❏ 12. Draw a center reference line across the

top of the rudder and fin blocks. A piece of

masking tape stretched across the center of the

blocks will help you draw a fairly straight line.

❏ 13. Use a razor plane and sanding block to

shape the top of the fin and rudder. For scale

realism, the Rudder Tip should be slightly

wider than the rudder. Apply 4 layers of masking

tape to each side of the rudder to prevent you

from removing too much material. The Fin Tip

may be sanded flush with the fin. Round off the

top 3/8” of both the Fin and Rudder Tips. When

the top is shaped and sanded, remove all mask-

ing tape.

❏ 14. Draw a centerline on the rudder’s LE.

Sand a “V” bevel along this line with reference to

the plans for the correct angle. Hinging and

installation of the torque rod will come later in

the assembly process.

❏ 15. Sand a radius around the forward edge of

the Rudder Tip. Hold the fin and rudder together

to check the clearance between the Rudder Tip

and the Fin Tip. Continue sanding the Rudder

Tip radius until there is a 1/32” gap between the

two parts.

Okay, the tail feathers are more or less com-

plete, so by now you are on a roll. The stab

looks like the wing for a .20-size model, doesn’t

it? We’ll build the wing next so you’ll really have

something to impress your buddies when they

drop in to see “how the ol’ Cessna is doing.”

NOTE: The wing panels are built “UPSIDE-

DOWN” on the plans. The jig tabs are

attached to what is, in the end, the TOP sur-

face of the wing. Since it is the standard con-

vention to show the Top View of the wing,

and the wing panels are built upside-down,

the LEFT wing panel is built over the RIGHT

Wing Top View and vice-versa. This does not

present any problems — just be sure to build

a left and a right wing.

❏ 1. Punch out all the die-cut 3/32” and 1/8”

balsa wing Ribs. Smooth out any imperfections

with sandpaper. Be sure to keep the jig tabs

attached to the ribs.

❏ 2. Punch out the 1/8” ply Doublers and Wing

Bolt Plates.

Build the center section

BUILD THE WING

❏ 3. Lay out both sets of balsa Ribs W-2 and W-

3, ply Doublers W-2B and W-2C, and the ply

Wing Bolt Plates exactly as shown in the photo.

This way you won’t assemble two right or two left

sides.

Glue the Doublers to the Ribs and laminate

the two pairs of Wing Bolt Plates with

30-Minute Epoxy. After the epoxy has cured, test

fit the Wing Bolt Plates into the slots at the aft end

of W-2 and W-3. Make slight adjustments to the

slots if required, but don’t make the fit too loose

as this is a critical area for a nice tight bond.

❏ 4. Attach the wing plan (the part showing the

center section) to a flat building board and cover

it with waxed paper.

Cutting apart the wing panel

sections of the plan makes handling easier.

❏ 5. Locate the 3/8” x 3/8” x 20” basswood

Center Spar. Cut two 9-1/4” pieces from it. Pin

one of the 3/8” x 3/8” x 9-1/4” basswood Center

Spars to the plan using the method shown in the

sketch. The Center Spar is a little longer than

actually needed to allow for the dihedral angle at

W-3. It will be trimmed to size later.

❏ 6. Position rib W-1 and rib assemblies W-2

and W-3 on the Center Spar with the jig tabs

touching the plan. Be sure that the ply doublers

are facing the correct direction.

❏ 7. Insert (without gluing) the die-cut 1/8” balsa

Center Aft Spar into the slots above the jig tabs.

Insert the second basswood Center Spar into

the forward rib notches. Make sure that both

Spars are flush with the upper edge of the ribs.

❏ 8. Interlock the 1/8” die-cut ply Center LE with

the tabs on the LE of ribs W-3 and W-1.

❏ 9. Study the structure. Are all parts over their

respective locations on the plans and in align-

ment? If not, lightly use fine grit sandpaper to

adjust the fit.

Don’t reach for the CA yet!

❏ 10. Make sure the W-3 ribs are flush with the

Aft Spar and the Center LE. Use the 1/8” die-cut

ply Dihedral Gauge on the inside of the W-3

ribs at the forward Spars to set the ribs angle at

this location. Hold a straightedge alongside the

W-3’s to check for straightness.

❏ 11. When you are sure that everything is

straight and true (sight down the TE and shim

any low ribs with folded paper under the jig tabs)

wick thin CA into every joint. Hold the LE and

W-3’s in tight contact for a few seconds to allow

the CA to work. Follow the initial gluing by apply-

ing a fillet of medium CA around the joints.

Isn’t interlocking construction great?!

NOTE: Do not use any CA until step 11.

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