Top Flite A0220 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does

not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Fur ther, Top Flite reserves
the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed
nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assemb led product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting
liability.If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product,the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in ne w and unused

condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models P.O. Box 788 Urbana, Il 61803 Technical Assistance Call [phone] [e-mail]

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

RCN4P03 for TOPA0220 V1.0

Entire Contents © Copyright 2001

Wingspan: 51 in [1295.4 mm]
Wing Area: 550 sq in [35.5 sq dm]
Weight: 3-1/2 to 5-1/2 lb. [1588-2495g]
Wing Loading: 14.7 - 23.0 oz/sq ft.

[44.8-70.2 g/sq dm]

Fuselage Length: 42-3/8 in [1076 mm]

™

MADE IN

USA

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Engine selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Retractable landing gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

NOTES FROM THE DESIGNER . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Building supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

DIE-CUT PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 & 7

Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . .8

GET READY TO BUILD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Build the stabilizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Build the elevators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Build the vertical fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Build the rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Hinge the elevators and rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

BUILD THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Prepare the fuselage sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Frame the fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Install the pushrods and servos . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Install the receiver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Finish the fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

BUILD THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Build the right panel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Build the wing tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Build the ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Build the flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Hinge the ailerons and flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Join the panels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Mount the servos in the wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

FINAL CONSTRUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Mount the wing to the fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Mount the stab and fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Mount the fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Rough sand the model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Install the landing gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Mount the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Install the engine cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Balance the airplane laterally . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Prepare the model for covering . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Cover with MonoKote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Covering sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Painting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Join the control surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

FINISHING TOUCHES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . .46

Balance your model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Final hookups and checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

Control surface throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Identify your model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Charge your batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Balance your propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Find a safe place to fly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Ground check your model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Range check your radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . .49

AMA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

TWO-VIEW DRAWING . . . . . . . . . . . .back cover

Your R/C Nobler is not a toy, but a sophisticated
working model that functions very much like an
actual airplane.Because of its realistic performance,
if you do not assemble and operate y our R/C Nobler
correctly, you could possibly injure yourself or
spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and
your first flights from an experienced,
knowledgeable modeler. You’ll learn faster and

avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready to
solo. Your local hobby shop has information about
flying clubs in your area whose membership
includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500
chartered clubs across the countr y.We recommend
you join the AMA which will insure you at AMA club
sites and events. AMA Membership is required at
chartered club fields where qualified flight
instructors are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

[phone]

Fax [phone]

or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the

Top Flite

Gold 30th Anniversary Edition

R/C

Nobler. We are sure you are eager to build and fly

your R/C Nobler, just as we were eager to build and
fly our prototypes.

The original R/C Nobler was popular in the early 1970’s
and had a reputation for being highly maneuverable
and aerobatic. It was a short coupled model, which
enhances snap rolls and tumbling type maneuvers.

The new Gold 30th Anniversary Edition R/C Nobler
retains all of the original flight characteristics, and
builds on them with the use of today's computer radio

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLO W THESE IMPORT ANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

- 2 -

systems.The model has been engineered to allow the
installation of up to 7 servos, as well as retractable
landing gear.

Well, this should be enough to get your juices
flowing, so get your other projects off your
workbench, say goodbye to your significant other for
a while and...keep reading!

Please inspect all parts carefully before you
start to build! If any parts are missing, broken or
defective, or if you have any questions about
building or flying this model, please call us at

[phone] or e-mail us at:

pr

[e-mail].

We’ll be glad to help. If you are calling for
replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and have them ready when you call.

PRECAUTIONS

1.You must build the plane according to the plan and
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unfly ab le model.In
a few cases the plan and instructions may differ
slightly from the photos. In those instances the
plan and written instructions are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first
class condition, the correct sized engine and
correct components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.)
throughout your building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly on
the ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model before
every flight to insure that all equipment is operating
and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,
you must fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced R/C pilot.

Remember: Take your time and follow
instructions to end up with a well-built model
that is straight and true.

ENGINE SELECTION

Recommended engine size:

.25 to .46 cu. in. [4.1 to 7.5cc] 2-stroke
.40 to .52 cu. in. [6.5 to 8.5cc] 4-stroke

Your Top Flite Gold 30’th Anniversary Edition R/C
Nobler will perform well with any of the engines
within the recommended range, but will handle
best with engines closer to the higher end of the
recommended size range. The inexpensive O.S.
.40 LA has more than adequate power to perform
even the most demanding aerobatic maneuvers.

The included Great Planes Adjustable Engine
Mount will hold a range of engines from .25 cu.in.
2-stroke through .52 cu. in. 4-stroke.

RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR

You may build your R/C Nobler either with fixed or
retractable landing gear. All the hardware you
need for fixed gear is supplied with this kit. We
also provide detailed instructions on how to install
retractable landing gear available from Great
Planes.The Great Planes mechanical retractable
landing gear recommended and shown in this
manual is light, inexpensive and strong. You may
choose to use another type of retract but it is up
to you to make modifications required to fit them.

(continued on page 4)

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you
with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it;therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.

- 3 -

NOTES FROM THE DESIGNER

When I became interested in modeling as a kid the
Top Flite Nobler was a very popular control line
model. I built and flew several of them and still have
many fond memories from that time, almost fifty
years ago.

When the Top Flite R/C Nobler was introduced I just
had to have one. That was thirty years ago, and it
was a great flying model in its day. Now I design
models for Top Flite and jumped at the chance to
redesign the model for the anniversary re-release of
this classic model. Isn’t this hobby great!

While the original R/C Nobler was a great flying
model, it did have a number of problems. It was
difficult to build, had terrible die-cutting and required
a lot of sanding and shaping. It also had some
structural problems. We have tried hard to correct
these problems.You will note that the aft section of
the model and the tail feathers hav e been changed to
improve the flying characteristics.

The original R/C Nobler had a D-tube wing
construction, but the spar was just a 1/16” balsa web

- with nothing else, no spars. It was not uncommon
for the wing to fail during snap rolls.The new version
of the model also has a D-tube wing construction, but
it has top and bottom basswood spars with a die-cut
3/32” I-beam type web. The original model had balsa
block wing tips that needed to be carved and
sanded.The new version of the model has wing tips
built from die-cut parts, much like the control line
model did.

The fuselage of the original R/C Nobler was built
from die-cut sides with many balsa blocks added.
These blocks required considerab le carving, shaping
and sanding. The turtle deck had an annoying habit
of cracking, causing the tail feathers to loosen.The

new version of the model has no blocks at all. The
model has die-cut sides and formers that are then
sheeted. The turtle deck and tail section have been
redesigned and strengthened.

The tail feathers on the original R/C Nobler were
made from 1/4” sheet balsa and were a bit heavy .On
hard landings the weight of the tail feathers would
cause the turtle deck to crack at various glue joints.
The tail feathers on the new version are built-up for
lightness and strength from sticks that are then
sheeted with 1/16” balsa.

I did not enjoy building the original version of the
model. The die-cutting was bad, parts fit was poor
and it required a lot of carving and sanding. I hope
you find the new version fun to build. The die-cutting
is great and the parts fit is right on, thanks to modern
computer CAD design systems. And it takes only
about 15 minutes to sand the entire model! If you are
a quick builder it would be possib le to build the model
and have it ready to cover in a long weekend.

The original R/C Nobler had a fixed wing that could
not be removed from the fuselage, and could be a bit
difficult to transport and store.The new version of the
model has a removable wing held in place with three
nylon bolts.

While the original model required only four servos to
operate ailerons, rudder, throttle and elevators with
coupled flaps, the new version requires six servos.
You can also add a seventh servo for retractable
landing gear. That’s right, you can now build the
model with retractable main landing gear.

Our prototype models, with seven full size servos and
retractable landing gear weighed 5 lbs 8 oz, almost
exactly the same weight of the original model. The
structure of the new version is much lighter due to the
elimination of all the balsa blocks and also the built up
tail feathers.At the same time, it is also much stronger.

For Retractable Landing Gear you will need
these items (not included):

Great Planes Retracts (GPMQ2905)
Retract servo (FUTM0670 or HCAM0160)
(2) 2-1/4” [57mm] wheels (GPMQ4222)
(2) Nylon Clevis (GPMQ3800)
(2) 2-56 x 12” [305mm] pushrod, threaded one
end (GPMQ3750)
(2) Screw-Lock connectors (GPMQ3870)
(8) #4 x 3/8”[9.5mm] flat head sheet metal screws

FLAPS

Your R/C Nobler is designed to incorporate flaps.
You must build these flaps, but you do not have to
make them operational. If you do not want
operational flaps simply glue them into place. As
the wing is removable, the flaps cannot be
mechanically coupled to the elevator as the
original R/C Nobler could.

For normal (independent) flap operation, only one
servo is required.This allows the flaps to be used
as normal flaps as well as for elevator to flap
mixing with a computer radio system.

Slight trim changes are needed when flaps are
extended.The trim corrections are discussed later
in the control surface throws section and you will
find more information on the flaps in the

Flying

section and the radio installation section.

For Flaps, you will need the following
additional item:

one standard servo.

- 4 -

Radio installation

The radio installation can be as simple as five standard
servos - or as challenging as seven servos that must be
fitted in a confined space.Pay very close attention to the
instructions and it will all fit easily. Drift off on your own
if you want, but be prepared to spend a lot of time
getting things to fit properly.

Nose heavy/Tail heavy

Most models require some nose weight to balance
properly. This one requires tail weight! The built up
tail feathers are light yet very strong. The tail is also
very short, resulting in a model that is slightly nose
heavy. If you power the model with a .46 size glow
engine you will need about 1 oz of lead on the tail.

Engine size

This model can be flown on a .25 size engine, but ­why. With an O.S. .46 FX, nine servos and retracts
the model weighs close to 5-1/2 lbs. That gives a
wing loading of 23.0 oz/sq ft.The engine will produce
more than six lbs of thrust if it is properly broken-in.

Think about those numbers for a minute.
Start building! Build light!!

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

These are additional items you will need to complete
your R/C Nobler that are

not included

with your kit.
Order numbers are in parentheses (GPMQ4130).
Our exclusive brand is listed where possible: TOP is
the Top Flite brand, GPM is the Great Planes

®

brand, and HCA is the Hobbico®brand.

❏ 4 to 6 channel radio with 5 to 7 servos
❏ 5 standard ser vos for Ailerons (2), Elevator,

Rudder, Throttle (Stationary flaps).

or:
6 standard servos for ailerons (2), Elevator,
Rudder, Throttle, Flaps (Electronic
Elevator to Flap coupling)

or:
7 servos gives above plus retractable landing gear.
(Note:Recommend 6 standard and 1 retract servo)

❏ (1) ‘Y’ Connector for aileron, (if only one aileron

channel is used)

Note:‘Y’ connector not needed if ailerons, are

mixed to separate receiver channels.

❏ (2) 12” [305mm] Ser vo extensions for

aileron servos

❏ (1-4) 6” [152mm] Ser vo extensions (1 or 2 for

ailerons, 1 for flaps, 1 for retracts)

(Simplifies wing installation at flying field - optional)

❏ Switch/charge plug mount (GPMM1000)
❏ (2) 2-1/2” [63.5mm] Main Wheels (GPMQ4223)

or:

(2) 2-1/4” [57mm] Main wheels (GPMQ4222) with

retracts

❏ 1-1/4” [31.8mm] Tail wheel (GPMQ4242)
❏ Optional retracts (GPMQ2905)
❏ 10 oz. [300cc] Fuel tank (GPMQ4104)
❏ Silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)
❏ Fuel filler valve (GPMQ4160)

❏ 2-1/2” [63.5mm] Spinner (GPMQ4521, black)
❏ 1/4” [6.4mm]R/C Foam rubber padding

(HCAQ1000)

❏ 2 rolls Top Flite Super MonoKote

®

covering, see

Finishing

on page 43

❏ 1 roll Top Flite Super MonoKote trim color
❏ Paint, see

Finishing

on page 43

❏ Propellers (see engine instructions)

BUILDING SUPPLIES

Here’s a list of supplies you should have on hand
while you’re building. Some of these are optional.
Use your own experience to decide what you need.
We recommend Great Planes Pro CA and Epoxy.

Glue/Filler

❏ 2 oz. [60g] Thin CA (GPMR6003)
❏ 2 oz. [60g] Medium CA+ (GPMR6009)
❏ 1 oz. [30g] Thick CA- (GPMR6014)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6034)
❏ CA Debonder (GMPR6039)
❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ 30-minute (GPMR6047) or 45-minute

(GPMR6048) epoxy

❏ 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ Pro™Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)
❏ Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏ Lightweight Hobby Filler (Balsa Color,

HCAR3401)

❏ Auto body filler (Bondo

®

or similar)

❏ Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol (to clean up

excess epoxy)

(continued on page 8)

- 5 -

- 6 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

IMPORTANT

Do not remove the wing ribs or other wing parts from the die-cut sheets until instructed to do so.

- 7 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

Tools

❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0311) -100 qty.
❏ Single Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312) -100 qty.
❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510)
❏ Hobbico Builder’s Triangle (HCAR0480)
❏T-Pins (HCAR5100) small, (HCAR5150) medium,

(HCAR5200) large

❏ Drill Bits: 1/16” [1.6mm], 3/32” [2.4mm],

1/8” [3.1mm], 5/64” [2mm], 7/64” [2.8mm],
9/64” [3.6mm], 5/32” [4mm], 11/64” [4.4mm],
3/16” [4.8mm], 7/32” [5.6mm], 1/4” [6.4mm]

❏ 1/4-20 Tap and dr ill (GPMR8105)
❏ 10-32 Tap and dr ill (GPMR8104)
❏ 6-32 Tap and dr ill (GPMR8102)
❏ Tap wrench (GPMR8120)
❏ Kyosho®curved plastic cutting scissors

(KYOR1010)

❏ Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167) or

waxed paper

❏ Masking T ape
❏ Easy–Touch™ Bar Sanders*
❏ Precision Z-Bend pliers (GPMR8025)

Recommended Covering

Tools/Accessories

❏ 21st Centur y Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
❏ 21st Centur y Cover Sock (COVR2702)

or:

❏ Top Flite Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Top Flite Hot Sock™(TOPR2175)

and

❏ Top Flite Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Top Flite Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)

EASY-TOUCH™BAR SANDER

A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a
necessity for building a well finished model. Great
Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar

Sanders (patented) and replaceable Easy-Touch
Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. While building the

R/C Nobler we used two 5-1/2" Bar Sanders and two
11" Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit
Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.

Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders
and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:

5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)

11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12’ roll of Adhesive-backed:

80-grit sandpaper (GPMR6180)
150-grit sandpaper (GPMR6183)
180-grit sandpaper (GPMR6184)
220-grit sandpaper (GPMR6185)

Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)

We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets)
and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry
sandpaper for finish sanding.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number

and a length.

For example #6 x 3/4" long [19.1mm]

Machine screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch, and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4" long [19.1mm]

•

When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions,
it means that you should first position the part on
the assembly without using any glue, then
slightly modify or

custom fit

the part as necessar y

for the best fit.

•

Whenever the term

glue

is written you should rely
upon your experience to decide what type of glue
to use. When a specific type of adhesive works
best for that step, the instructions will tell y ou what
glue is recommended.

•

Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either

30-minute epoxy or6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly
recommended that you use only 30-minute (or
45-minute) epoxy because you will need the
working time and/or the additional strength.

•

Occasionally we refer to the

top

or

bottom

of the

model or upor

down

. To avoid confusion, the

top

or

bottom

of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right side up and will be referred to as
the top even if the model is upside-down during
that step,

i.e.

the top main spar is always the top

- 8 -

main spar even if the wing is upside-down when
you are working on it. Similar ly,

move the former

up

means move the former toward the top of the
fuselage even if the fuselage is upside-do wn when
you are working on it.

•

When you get to each step, read that step
completely through to the end before you begin.
Frequently there is important information or a note
at the end of the step that you need to know before
you start.

•

Photos and sketches are placed before the
step they refer to .Frequently you can study photos in
following steps to get another view of the same parts.

GET READY TO BUILD

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Roll them inside out so
they lie flat.

2.Remove all the parts from the box.Use a ballpoint
pen (not a felt tip pen) to lightly write the name or
size on each piece so you can identify it later. Use
the

die-cut patterns

on pages 6 and 7 to identify and
mark the die-cut parts before you remove them from
their die sheets. Many of the parts already have
numbers stamped on them, but in some cases the
number is located alongside the parts or only on the
die drawings in the manual.Do not remove the die-cut
parts until instructed to do so. If a part is difficult to
remove, don’t f orce it out b ut cut around it with a hobb y
knife and a #11 blade.After you remove the parts from
their die sheets, lightly sand the edges to remove
slivers or die-cutting irregularities. Save some of the
larger scraps of wood.

3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin,
wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top
food storage bags.

BUILD THE T AIL SURF ACES

Use the

Hot Tip

that follows to cut the 1/8” x 1/4” x
24” [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] sticks for the framework of
the stab, elevators, fin and rudder. This framework
will then be sheeted with 1/16” x 3” x 24” [1.6 x 76 x
610mm] balsa.

BUILD THE ST ABILIZER

❏ 1. Cut the stab plan along the dashed line and

tape it to your building board. Cover the plan with
Plan Protector or wax paper.

❏2.Cut the stab TE from a hard 1/8”x 1/4” x 24”[3.2

x 6.4 x 610mm] balsa stick and pin it in position over
the plan.

❏ 3. Pin the die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] ply stab center in

position. Similarly, pin the die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa
stab tip parts in position. Do not glue until later.

❏ 4. Cut both stab LE pieces from another hard 1/8”

x 1/4” x 24” [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] balsa stick and pin
them in position. Do not glue until later.

HOW T O CUT THE STICKS

There are ten 1/8”x 1/4” x 24”[3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm]
sticks supplied for building the stab, elevators, fin
and rudder. There are ample sticks supplied for
building these parts. Do not use the 30” [762mm]
sticks that are used for building the wing.

Use the hardest sticks for building the framework
of the stab and fin.The softer sticks can be used
for the ribs and diagonal pieces, and for the
elevators and rudder.

Cut the longest parts from the sticks first, using
the remainder for the shorter pieces. We have
found that a new single edge razor blade makes
the best cuts with a minimum of crushing.

We found it fastest to cut all of the required parts
at one time.Others may prefer to cut each part as
it is needed.

- 9 -

❏5.Cut the stab ribs, diagonals and hinge blocks

from soft 1/8” x 1/4” x 24” [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] balsa
sticks and place them into position. Glue all of the
parts together with thin CA where they join each
other - refer to the

Hot Tip

that follows.

❏ 6. After the CA has cured, remove the pins from

the stab. Use a sanding block with 150-grit
sandpaper to sand the stab flat.

❏ 7. Use the

Hot Tip

that follows (or your own
method) to glue two 1/16" x 3" x 24" [1.6 x 76 x
610mm] balsa sheets together to make a 1/16" x 6"
x 24" [1.6 x 152 x 610mm] sheet for one of the stab

skins.Use the two hardest sheets supplied in the kit.

D.Lay the sheets on your workbench covered with

wax paper.Use a credit card or something similar
as a squeegee to simultaneously press the sheets
flat as you wipe the glue from the seam.

C. Turn the sheets over and apply slow drying
glue like Great Planes Pro aliphatic resin to the
joining edges.Some prefer to use CA, but it is not
recommended in this

Hot Tip

because CA does
not allow enough working time to align the sheets
and it is much harder than the balsa, making
sanding difficult.

B. Use masking tape to tightly tape the trued
edges of the sheets together.

A. Use a straightedge to true one edge of two
balsa sheets.

HOW TO MAKE THE STAB SKINS

Top Flite selects balsa that is intended for
sheeting.Occasionally , a f ew of these sheets ma y
have a small nick or split near the ends. If your kit
contains a few of these sheets, arr ange them and
glue them together so the defects will not
interfere with the final shape of your skin.

When you install the tip on the end of the CA
bottle, cut the large end of the tip to a depth of
about 1/4” [6.4mm]. Doing so will prevent the tip
from splitting and leaking when it is pressed onto
the bottle.

It can be difficult to control the application of thin
CA adhesives and get that one small drop that is
needed to glue a part. We have found a CA
applicator tip, available from Hobbico, to be very
useful. Frankly, we wonder how we ever got along
without them.

With these tips you will no longer have large b lobs
of CA that needs to be sanded away.Your supply
of CA will also last much longer. As the tip clogs
simply snip the clogged part off and keep using it.

Two of these tips are supplied with this kit. If you
like them their part number is HCAR3780 (6) and
are available in bulk BUKR0307 (200).

- 10 -

Note: Some modelers tend to sand the sheeting too
much after it is applied to the structure, making thin
spots where fingers can easily go through. By
following the procedure abov e (specifically, by aligning
the joined edges of the sheets as shown in step E),
little sanding should be required. Most of the sanding

that isrequired should be done before the sheeting is
glued in place. The only sanding that should be
required after the sheeting is glued to the structure is
final sanding with 320 or 400-grit sandpaper.

❏ 8. Use medium CA or aliphatic resin to glue the

stab skin to the top of the stab. Align the skin even
with the TE of the stab. Note that the sheeting is
positioned so that it overhangs one end of the stab.

❏ 9. After the glue dr ies, remove the stab from the

building board and trim the sheeting along the LE
and both tips. Save the leftover sheeting for use in
the next step.

❏ 10. Locate another hard sheet of 1/16" x 3" x 24"

[1.6 x 76 x 610mm] balsa. Use this sheet and the
leftover sheeting from the above step to make
another stab skin.

❏ 11. Turn the stab over and use a sanding block to

sand the un-sheeted side of the stab flat. Use
medium CA or aliphatic resin to glue the stab skin to
the stab.Align the skin even with the TE of the stab.
The sheeting is positioned so that it overhangs one
end of the stab.

❏ 12. After the glue dries, remove the stab from the

building board and trim the sheeting along the LE
and both tips. Save the leftover sheeting for use in a
later step.

BUILD THE ELEVATORS

❏ 1. Pin the die-cut 1/8” balsa control horn base

into position. Use 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x
610mm] soft balsa sticks to cut all of the parts for
both elevators. Pin them into position and glue the
parts together with thin CA where they join.

❏ 2. After the CA has cured, remove the pins from

both elevators. Use a sanding block with 150-grit
sandpaper to sand the elevators flat.

Here are a few other things to keep in mind
while sanding balsa sheeting:

1. Make sure you sand the sheets on a flat work
surface that is free from hardened drops of glue or
other imperfections that will damage your
sheeting.

2. Sand the sheeting only as much as required.
The inside of the sheeting needs to be sanded just
enough to remove excess glue and doesn’t have
to be perfectly flat or smooth.

3. Though more material can be removed by
sanding across the grain, this leaves scratches in
the balsa. Balsa sheeting should be sanded with
the grain—especially when finish-sanding.

4. If some of the glue joints are uneven, it may be
best just to leave them that way, rather than to
sand the sheets too thin. A slightly uneven glue
joint is preferable to paper-thin balsa.

F. Place weights on top of the sheet to hold it flat
while the glue dries.

G. After the glue dries, sand the sheets flat
and even.

E. Press the joining edges of the sheets down to
make sure they are even. This is important. Little
sanding will be required if the sheets are even.

-11-

❏ 3. Use a soft 1/16" x 3" x 24" [1.6 x 76 x 610mm]

sheet of balsa to sheet the top of both elevators. Cut
a piece from the sheet for each elevator.Then, glue
it in place with medium CA or aliphatic resin. Save
the leftover sheeting for use later.

❏ 4.After the glue dries, remove both elevators from

the building board and trim the sheeting along the
TE, LE and tips.

❏ 5.Turn the elevators o ver and use a sanding block

to sand the un-sheeted side of them flat. Locate
another soft sheet of 1/16" x 3" x 24" [1.6 x 76 x
610mm] balsa and cut a piece from the sheet for
each elevator. Use medium CA or aliphatic resin to
glue the sheet to the elevators.

❏ 6. After the glue dr ies, remove the elevators from

the building board and trim the sheeting along the
TE, LE and tips.

❏ 7. Locate a die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] ply control

horn mount. Using the plan as a reference, position

the control horn mount on the bottom of the right
elevator and mark its location. Cut along the lines
you marked and remove the balsa to inset the
mount. Glue the mount into the elevator.

NOTE:Be sure to make a right elevator as shown in
the above photo.

❏8.Use a file or a rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to

remove sharp edges or burrs on the ends of the
elevator joiner wire.Position the ele v ator joiner wire
on the top of the stab as shown in the photo. Align
the elevators with the stab and mark the leading
edge of the elevators where the

arm

portion of the
joiner wire will enter the elevators. The joiner wire
should be centered between the elevators as shown
on the plan.

❏ 9. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole into the leading edge

of both elevators at the marks you made. Be sure to
drill the hole on the centerline of the leading edge.
Cut a groove in the leading edge of both elevators to
accommodate the joiner wire.

Hint: Use a 3/32" [2.4mm] brass tube sharpened at
one end to cut the grooves.

BUILD THE VERTICAL FIN

❏ 1. Cut the vertical fin plan along the dashed line

and tape it to your building board.Cover the fin plan
with Plan Protector or wax paper.

❏ 2. Cut the fin TE from a hard 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2

x 6.4 x 610mm] balsa stick and pin it in position over
the plan.

❏ 3. Cut the fin LE and the top and bottom par ts

from the remainder of the balsa stick and pin them in
position. Do not glue until later.

❏ 4. Cut the fin ribs and hinge blocks from soft

1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] balsa sticks and
place them into position. Glue all of the parts
together with thin CA where they join each other.

❏ 5. After the CA has cured, remove the pins from

the fin. Use a sanding block with 150-grit sandpaper
to sand the fin flat.

-12-

❏ 6. Locate the leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa

sheeting used to sheet the stab and elevators. Use
this material to make two fin skins similar to the
above photo.

❏7.Use medium CA or aliphatic resin to glue one of

the fin skins to the left side of the fin. Align the skin
even with the TE and bottom of the fin.

❏ 8. After the glue dries, remove the fin from the

building board and trim the sheeting along the LE,
TE, bottom and top.

❏ 9. Turn the fin over and use a sanding block to

sand the un-sheeted side of the fin flat. Use medium
CA or aliphatic resin to glue the second fin skin to the
fin. Align the sheet even with the TE and bottom of
the fin.

❏ 10. After the glue dries, remove the fin from the

building board and trim the sheeting along the LE,
TE, bottom and top.

BUILD THE RUDDER

❏ 1. Use 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] soft

balsa sticks to cut all of the parts for the rudder. Pin
them into position and glue the parts together with
thin CA where they join.

❏ 2. After the CA has cured, remove the pins from

the rudder. Use a sanding block with 150-grit
sandpaper to sand the rudder flat.

❏ 3. Use a soft 1/16" x 3" x 24" [1.6 x 76 x 610mm]

sheet of balsa to cut a piece to sheet the left side of the
rudder. Glue this sheet in place with medium CA or
aliphatic resin. Save the leftover sheeting for use later.

❏ 4.After the glue dries, remove the rudder from the

building board and trim the sheeting along the TE,
LE and tips.

❏ 5.Turn the rudder over and use a sanding bloc k to

sand the un-sheeted side flat. Use the remainder of
the sheeting to cut a piece for the other side of the
rudder.Use medium CA or aliphatic resin to glue this
sheet to the rudder.

❏ 6.After the glue dries, remove the rudder from the

building board and trim the sheeting along the TE,
LE and tips.

❏ 7. Locate a die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] ply control

horn mount. Using the plan as a reference, position

the control horn mount on the left side of the rudder
and mark its location.Cut along the lines you marked
and remove the balsa to inset the mount. Glue the
mount into the rudder.

HINGE THE ELEVATORS

AND RUDDER

IMPORTANT NOTES
ABOUT CA HINGES

This kit is supplied with a CA hinge material
consisting of a 3-layer lamination of Mylar and
polyester. It is specially made for hinging model
airplane control surfaces.When properly installed,
this type of CA hinge provides the best
combination of strength, durability and easy
installation. We trust all of our Gold Edition
warbirds to these hinges, but it is essential to
install them correctly.Carefully follow the hinging
instructions in this manual for the best result.

The most common mistake made by modelers
when installing CA hinges is making the hinge
slots too tight, restricting the flow of CA to the
back of the hinges; or not using enough glue to
fully secure the hinge over its entire surface area.
This results in hinges that are only

tack glued

into
the hinge slots. The techniques for cutting the
hinge slots and gluing in the CA hinges (near the
end of the manual) have been developed to
ensure thorough and secure attachment.

-13-

❏ 1. Use a straightedge to mark the centerline of

both elevators and the stab with a ballpoint pen.
Mark the location of the hinge slots on the elevators
and stab where shown on the plan. Cut the hinge
slots in the elevators and the stab along the
centerlines with a #11 blade.

❏ 2. Using the sketch above, cut nine hinges to a

size of 3/4" x 1" [19 x 25.4mm] from the CA hinge
strip supplied with this kit. Snip the corners off so

they go into the slots easier.

❏ 3.Test fit the hinges into the slots.If the hinges do

not slide into the slots easily, work your knife blade
back and forth in the slot a few times to pro vide more
clearance (it is really the back edge of the blade that
does the work here in widening the slot).

❏ 4. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole, 1/2" [12.7mm] deep

in the center of the hinge slots.Use a rotary tool with
a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill bit or a carbide cutter for the
best results. Reinsert your knife blade to

clean out

the slot after you drill the holes.

❏ 5.Test fit the elevators to the stab with the hinges.

If any hinge slots are not wide enough or are
misaligned, make adjustments so the elevators
accurately fit the stab.

❏ 6. Bevel the leading edges of the elevators to a

“V” as shown on the cross section of the plan. Use
the centerline on the elevator leading edges as a
guide. Test fit the elevators to the stab with the
joiner wire and the hinges. (If necessary, remove
the joiner and

tweak

it so both elevators are in the

same plane.)

Note: Make sure you can obtain the control throws
indicated in the back of the manual. If you cannot,
increase the “V” on the leading edge of the
elevators.

❏ 7. Test hinge the vertical fin and rudder in the

same manner.

DO NOT glue the hinges until the model has been
covered.

This completes the construction of the tail surfaces.

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

PREPARE THE FUSELAGE SIDES

Note: The fuselage parts interlock together, so you
do not need to put the fuselage plan on your building
board. You should, however, cover your building
board with plan protector or wax paper.

❏ 1. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa upper

fuselage side, front lower fuselage side and rear
lower fuselage side parts.Also locate the belly pan

parts. There are two sets of parts for the left and
right sides.

We HIGHLY recommend that you use the Great
Plans Slot Machine™for cutting your hinge slots.
This motorized hinge slotting tool makes clean
slots of the exact size needed for CA hinges.
Once you use this tool, you will never cut your
hinge slots any other way.

HOW T O MAKE THE HINGE SLOTS

-14-

❏❏2. Use your bar sander to sand the edges flat

and straight where the parts join. Using one set of
parts, edge glue the upper fuselage side, front lower
fuselage side and rear lower fuselage side parts
together using either thin CA or aliphatic resin. Align
the front lower fuselage side even with the front of
the upper fuselage side. Align the rear lower
fuselage side even with the wing saddle cutout.
When the glue dries, use your bar sander with 150­grit sandpaper to sand the assembled fuselage side
flat and smooth.

❏❏3. Edge glue the three par ts for the belly pan

side together and sand the completed assembly flat
and smooth.

❏ 4. Return to step 2 and make a second set

of parts.

❏ 5. Position one of the sides on your building board

as shown in the photo. Position the die-cut 1/8"
[3.2mm] ply fuselage side doubler on the fuselage
side. Align the doubler with the wing saddle and
trace the outline of the doubler onto the fuselage
side with a ball point pen.

Note: It is impor tant that the doubler be accurately
positioned on the fuselage side. Check that the

fuselage side extends 1/4" [6.4mm] beyond the
doubler at the front end of the assembly. Also check
that the fuselage side extends 3/32" [2.4mm]
beyond the doubler along the edge of the assembly
as shown in the photo.

❏ 6. Glue the doubler to the fuselage side using

aliphatic resin glue or epoxy, aligning it accurately in
position. Do not use CA as it will not allow you to
reposition the parts. Use weights to hold the parts
together until the glue dries, making sure the parts
remain accurately positioned.

❏ 7. When the glue has dr ied, remove the side from

the building board. Label this side “L”.

❏ 8. Glue the belly pan doubler to the belly pan

side.Align the doubler with the wing saddle and with
the ends. The belly pan side should extend 1/4"
[6.4mm] beyond the doubler along the straight edge.
Label this assembly “L”.

❏9. Locate the remaining fuselage side assembly and

fuselage side doubler .Note that the front edge of these
parts have an embossed cut line that is about 3/32"

[2.4mm] from the edge. Use a straight edge and your
knife with a sharp #11 blade to cut and remove the
material along the embossed line.This will establish the
proper right thrust for the engine.

❏ 10. Position this side on your building board as

shown in the photo. BE SURE IT IS POSITIONED
AS SHOWN (unless you want two left sides)!
Position the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] ply fuselage side
doubler on the fuselage side. Align the doubler as
you did in steps 5 and 6 and glue it in position with
aliphatic resin or epoxy. Use weights to hold the
parts together until the glue dries, making sure the
parts remain accurately positioned.

Note: It is impor tant that the doubler be accurately
positioned on the fuselage side. Check that the
fuselage side extends 1/4" [6.4mm] beyond the
doubler at the front end of the assembly. Also check
that the fuselage side extends 3/32" [2.4mm]
beyond the doubler along the edge of the assembly
as shown in the photo.

❏11.When the glue has dried, remove the side from

the building board. Label this side “R”.

❏ 12. Glue the belly pan doubler to the belly pan

side.Align the doubler with the wing saddle and with
the ends. The belly pan side should extend 1/4"
[6.4mm] beyond the doubler along the straight edge.
Label this assembly “R”.

Caution: Be sure you are building a right side, not
another left.

-15-

FRAME THE FUSELAGE

❏1.Locate both die-cut 1/8" [3mm] ply F1 firewalls.

Glue them together using 6-minute epoxy.

Note: Make sure the pin point punch marks are
facing out on one side.Label this side F1.

❏ 2. When the epoxy has cured drill 1/8" [3.2mm]

and 11/64" [4.4mm] holes where shown in the sketch
above. The 3/16" [4.8mm] hole is for the throttle
pushrod for an OS .46 FX.

❏ 3. Install four 6-32 blind nuts in the 11/64" [4.4mm]

holes. Put some epoxy on the blind nuts as you install

them to hold them in place. Be careful not to get any
epoxy in the threaded holes in the blind nuts.

Note:The blind nuts are installed on the aft side of F1.

❏ 4. Referring to the former drawings on the

fuselage plan, drill 3/16" [4.8mm] holes for the
pushrods in formers F2, F3, F4, F5 and F6 at the pin
point punch marks. Label the front of each former.

❏ 5.Refer to the “pushrod exit locations”drawing on

the plan and the HOT TIP below.Drill 3/16" [4.8mm]
holes in the fuselage sides for the pushrods.The left
side has one hole for the rudder pushrod. The right
side has one hole for the elevator pushrod.

Note: The drawing shows where the holes should
enter and exit the fuselage sides on the inside and
outside.This allows you to judge the angle at which
the holes should be drilled.

❏ 6. Locate the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa left and

right fuselage top deck parts. Use your bar sander to

sand the edges flat and straight where the parts join.
Edge glue the left and right fuselage top deck parts
together using either thin CA or aliphatic resin.Align the
parts even at the front edges.Use your bar sander with
150-grit sandpaper to sand the assembled fuselage top
deck flat and smooth.

Note: The front edge is cut at a 2 degree angle to
establish the engine right thrust angle.

A. Mark the fuselage side with pins where the
hole enters and exits the fuselage side.

B. Start by drilling a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole at the
exit point on the outside of the fuselage side.

C.Turn the side over and use a rotar y tool with a
cutoff wheel to cut a trough in the interior of the
fuselage side.The trough should extend from the
pin mark at the entry point to the hole you drilled
at the exit. MAKE SURE you are cutting the
trough on the inside of the fuselage side.

D. Dress the angled hole up by using the 3/16"
[4.8mm] drill at an angle and sliding it in and out
of the hole to shave the hole clean. Any
imperfections at the exit can be filled and sanded
after the pushrod is installed.

HOW TO DRILL ANGLED HOLES

-16-

❏ 7. Place the fuselage top deck over the top view of

the fuselage plan.Align the cutouts in the top deck with
formers F2, F3TC and F3. Mark the location of former
F1TR and all of the formers aft of F3.T ransf er the marks
for F4, F5 and F6 to the bottom of the top deck.

❏ 8. Place the right fuselage side over the side view

of the fuselage plan. Align the fuselage side with the
wing saddle.Mark the location of formers F4, F5 and
F6 at the lower edge on the inside of the fuselage
side. Align the left fuselage side with the r ight side
and transfer these marks to the inside of the left
fuselage side.

❏9.Without using any glue, assemble the fuselage top

deck, left and right fuselage sides, F2 and F3. Use
rubber bands to hold the assembly together. Align F2
even with the front of the wing saddle cutout and align
F3 even with the rear of the wing saddle cutout. Be
certain that the forward (marked) sides of F2 and F3 are
facing the front of the fuselage.

IMPORTANT:Check that the front edge of the top deck
is exactly aligned with the front edge of the ply fuselage
doublers.View the fuselage assembly from the top and
insure that the firewall will have RIGHT thrust.

❏ 10. Cover your building board with plan protector

or wax paper. Place the fuselage assembly upside
down on the building board. With the assembly
properly aligned, glue F2 to the top deck and
fuselage sides with thin CA. Be sure that the top
deck is firmly seated against the ply fuse doublers
and that F2 is aligned with the wing saddle cutout.
Squeeze the fuselage sides together against F2 until
the CA cures.

❏ 11. Glue F3 to the top deck and fuselage sides with

thin CA. Be sure that the top deck is firmly seated
against the ply fuse doublers and that F3 is aligned with
the wing saddle cutout. Squeeze the fuselage sides
together against F3 until the CA cures.

❏ 12. Glue the top deck to the fuselage sides

between F2 and F3 with thin CA. Be sure the top
deck is firmly seated against the ply fuse doublers.

❏ 13. Glue the firewall F1 in place to the front of the

fuselage using 30 minute epoxy.Y ou will need to cut two
notches in the top deck to clear the 6-32 blind nuts.
Align F1 with the top of the top deck. F1 will extend
below the bottom of the fuselage by about 3/32"
[2.4mm].Check that the sides and top deck are square.

❏ 14. Reinforce the joint between F1 and the

fuselage sides and top deck with some balsa
triangular sticks cut from a 1/4" x 1/4" tri x 30" [6.4 x

6.4 x 762mm] stick. Glue in place with epoxy. Do not
let any epoxy get into the blind nuts.

Hint: Put some vaseline on the two blind nuts near
the top deck.

-17-