Top Flite A0215 INSTRUCTION BOOK

USA

MADE IN

Wingspan: 65 in [1650mm]
Wing Area: 778 sq in [50.2 dm²]
Weight: 5.5 – 7.0 lbs [2500 - 3182g]
Wing Loading: 16 – 21 oz/sq ft

[50–64 g/dm²]

Length: 49.5 in [1257mm]

™

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does

not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves
the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed
nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all
resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new

and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models 3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1, Champaign, IL 61822 Technical Assistance Call [phone] [e-mail]

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

ELD4P03 for TOPA0215 V1.1Entire Contents © Hobbico, Inc 2012

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Hardware and Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Adhesives and Building Supplies . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Optional Supplies and Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

GET READY TO BUILD. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

METRIC CONVERSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

DIE-CUT PATTERNS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Build the Stab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Build the Elevator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Build the Fin and Rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

BUILD THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Frame the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Install the Wing Joiners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Finish the Bottom of the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Join the Wings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Build the Wingtip. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Build the Aileron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Finish the Wing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Make the Cockpit (Optional) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

BUILD THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Frame the Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Mount the Wing to the Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . .20

Finish the Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Adding the Wing Fairing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Assemble and Install the Landing Gear. . . . .24

Tailskid Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Tail Wheel Wire Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

FINAL CONSTRUCTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Mount the Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Install the Radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Fuelproofing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Prepare the Model for Covering . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Balance the Model Laterally. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Cover Your Model with MonoKote. . . . . . . . . . .28

Installing the Stab and Fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Join the Control Surfaces. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Install the Elevator and Rudder Pushrods and

Control Horns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Install the Aileron Pushrods & Control Horns. .32

Scale Details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Final Hookups and Checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Control Throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . . .34

Balance your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Identify Your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Charge the Batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Balance Propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Find a Safe Place to Fly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Ground Check Your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Range Check Your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

CHECK LIST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . .36

AMA SAFETY CODE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Flight. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Landing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

INTRODUCTION

Congratulation and thank you for purchasing the To p
Flite Elder. The Top Flite Elder is a classic design from

the early years of modeling, brought back by requests
from modelers just like you! This easy flying model will
provide you with many hours of relaxing flight. Though
it is simple to build and fly, it also has its own unique
character that seems to appeal to modelers of all ages
and is guaranteed to get the attention of everyone at
the field. We hope you enjoy building the Top Flite Elder
as much as we have enjoyed bringing it back to the
modeling world and introducing it to a whole new
generation of modelers.

- 2 -

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

1. Your Top Flite Elder should not be considered a
toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that
functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because
of its performance capabilities, the Top Flite Elder, if
not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly
cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to
property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.
In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly
from the photos. In those instances the written
instructions should be considered as correct.

3. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first­class condition, and a correctly sized engine and
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the
building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates correctly on
the ground and in the air.

6. You must check the operation of the model before
every flight to insure that all equipment is operating
and that the model has remained structurally sound.
Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often
and replace them if they show any signs of wear or
fatigue.

7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,
you should fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced R/C pilot.

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you
with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.

Remember: Take your time and follow the
instructions to end up with a well-built model
that is straight and true.

Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit
with the Parts List, and note any missing parts. Also
inspect all parts to make sure they are of acceptable
quality. If any parts are missing, broken or defective,
or if you have any questions about building or flying
this airplane, please call us at [phone], or
e-mail us at [e-mail]. If you
are contacting us for replacement parts, please be
sure to provide the full kit name (Top Flite Elder)
and the part numbers as listed in the Parts List.

If you have not flown a model before, we recommend
that you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in
your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a
member of a club, your local hobby shop has
information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.

In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly
recommend you join the AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics). AMA membership is required to fly at
AMA sanctioned clubs. There are over 2,500 AMA
chartered clubs across the country. Among other
benefits, the AMA provides insurance to its members
who fly at sanctioned sites and events. Additionally,
training programs and instructors are available at
AMA club sites to help you get started the right way.
Contact the AMA at the following address or toll-free
phone number.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

Hardware and Accessories

This is the list of hardware and accessories required
to finish the Top Flite Elder. Order numbers are
provided in parentheses.

❏ Engine - .40 - .46 [6.5 – 7.5cc ] 2-stroke

.52 [8.5cc ] 4-stroke

❏ Radio - Four channel radio with four,

40 oz.-in. servos.

❏ Wheels – Two 3-3/4" Wheels. Williams Brother

Vintage Wheels (WBRQ1306)

❏ Spinner Great Planes Brass Spinner Nut –

choose for your engine shaft size.

❏ Propellers - Choose prop appropriate for

your engine

❏ Fuel line - Standard 3' tubing (GPMQ4131)
❏ Fuel tank - 10 oz (SULQ1385)
❏ MonoKote - For color scheme on the box:
❏ 2 - Six foot rolls “Cream” (TOPQ0212)
❏ 1 – Six foot roll “Red” (TOPQ0201)
❏ 1 – Six foot roll “Insignia Blue”(TOPQ0207)

- 3 -

Adhesives and Building Supplies

In addition to common household tools (screw drivers,
drill, etc.), this is the “short list” of the most important
items required to build the Top Flite Elder. We

recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy glue.

❏ 1 oz. Thin Pro CA (GPMR6002)
❏ 1 oz. Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6034)
❏ 6-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ R/C-56 Canopy Glue (JOZR5007)
❏ Hobby knife (RMXR6907)
❏ #11 blades (RMXR6930)
❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
❏ Builder’s triangle (HCAR0480)
❏ Electric drill
❏ Small Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers.
❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❏ Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167) or

wax paper

❏ Sanding tools and sandpaper assortment (see

Easy-Touch

❏ Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Small torch or 40 watt soldering iron

™

Bar Sander section)

Optional Supplies and Tools

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the
manual that will help you build the Top Flite Elder.

❏ Great Planes CG Machine™ (GPMR2400)
❏ Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™

(TOPQ5700)

™

❏ Top Flite Hot Sock
❏ Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475)
❏ Cutting mat (HCAR0456)
❏ Masking Tape (GPMR1010)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)

iron cover (TOPR2175)

❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
❏ Denatured Alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❏ Silver solder (GPMR8070)
❏ Felt-Tip Marker (TOPQ2510)
❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel
❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel

(GPMR8200)

❏ 1/16" to 1/4" drill bit set
❏ Other drill bits used: 17/64" (or 1/4"), #48 (or

5/64"), #36 (or 7/64), 6-32 tap, 1/4" tap

-or-

❏ Great Planes tap and drill set (GPMR8108)
❏ Dead Center™ Engine Mount Hole Locator

(GPMR8130)

™

❏ Great Planes AccuThrow

(for measuring control throws, GPMR2405)

Deflection Gauge

EASY-TOUCH™ BAR SANDER

Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders
and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:
5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12’ roll of Adhesive-backed:
80-grit sandpaper (GPMR6180)
150-grit sandpaper (GPMR6183)
180-grit sandpaper (GPMR6184)
220-grit sandpaper (GPMR6185)
Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

There are two types of screws used in this kit:

Sheet metal screws are designated by a number

and a length.

For example #6 x 3/4" long [19.1mm]

When you see the term test fit in the instructions,

•
it means that you should first position the part on
the assembly without using any glue, then
slightly modify or custom fit the part as necessary
for the best fit.

Whenever the term glue is written you should rely

•
upon your experience to decide what type of glue
to use. When a specific type of adhesive works
best for that step, the instructions will tell you what
glue is recommended.

• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use
either 30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly
recommended that you use only 30-minute (or
45-minute) epoxy because you will need the
working time and/or the additional strength.

• Photos and sketches are placed before the step
they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in
following steps to get another view of the same parts.

• Not all die-cut parts have a name, or their complete
name stamped on them, so refer to the die
drawings on page 6 for identification. When it’s
time to remove the parts from their die sheets, if
they are difficult to remove, do not force them out.
Instead, use a sharp #11 blade to carefully cut the
part from the sheet, then lightly sand the edges to
remove any slivers or irregularities. Save some of
the larger, leftover pieces of wood.

A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a
necessity for building a well finished model. Great
Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar

Sanders and replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive-
backed Sandpaper. While building the Top Flite

Elder, we used two 5-1/2" Bar Sanders and two 11"
Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit
Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.

This is a number six screw that is 3/4" long.

Machine screws are designated by a number,

threads per inch, and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4" long [19.1mm]

This is a number four screw that is 3/4" long with
forty threads per inch.

- 4 -

GET READY TO BUILD

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Roll them inside out so
they lie flat.

2. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a ballpoint
pen (not a felt tip pen) to lightly write the name or
size on each piece so you can identify it later. Use
the die-cut patterns on pages 6 and 7 to identify and
mark the die-cut parts before you remove them from
their die sheets. Many of the parts already have

numbers stamped on them, but in some cases the
number is located alongside the parts or only on the
die drawings in the manual. Do not remove the die-cut
parts until instructed to do so. If a part is difficult to
remove, don’t force it out but cut around it with a hobby
knife and a #11 blade. After you remove the parts from
their die sheets, lightly sand the edges to remove
slivers or die-cutting irregularities. Save some of the
larger scraps of wood.

3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin,
wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top
food storage bags.

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

deg. = Degrees
Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left
Ply = Plywood
Rt = Right
Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
" = Inches

METRIC CONVERSIONS

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm
1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm
3/16" = 4.8mm
1/4" = 6.4mm
3/8" = 9.5mm
1/2" = 12.7mm
5/8" = 15.9mm
3/4" = 19mm
1" = 25.4mm

2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm
6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

- 5 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

- 6 -

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

Build the Elevator

Build the Stab

❏ 1. Tape the Wing/Stab Plan view to your building

board. Cover the plan with Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Locate the two die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa stab

center pieces. Glue them together with medium CA

to make one 1/4" [6mm] stab center.

❏ 1. From the 1/4" x 1-3/4" x 36" [6 x 32 x 914mm]

balsa sheet, cut two pieces 10-1/2" [267mm] in length.

❏ 6. Glue the remaining gussets in place as shown

on the plan.

❏ 2. Using the plan as your guide, cut and shape

each of them to match the shape of the elevator
shown on the plan.

❏ 3. Locate four die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa stab tips.

Glue them together to form two 1/4" [6mm] stab tips.

❏ 4. Pin the stab center over the plan. Using your

plan as a guide, build the leading edge and trailing
edge of the stab from 1/4" x 1/2" x 36" [6mm x 13 x
914mm] balsa sticks. Cut 1/4" x 1/4" [6mm x 6mm]
balsa sticks to the proper length for the stab ribs.
Glue them in place with medium CA.

❏ 5. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa gussets in

place next to the stab tip on the left side of the stab.
Center them on the 1/4" [6mm] stab parts. Repeat
this for the right side of the stab.

❏ 7. From 3/32" x 1/4" x 36" [2.4mm x 6 x 914mm]

balsa stick, cut out cap strips and glue them in place
on the stab ribs. Do this on both the top and bottom
of the stab. Note: On the stab cross-section you will
see that the cap strips extend across the leading and
trailing edge.

❏ 8. Sand the cap strips to the shape shown on the

stab cross-section. This is also a good time to final
sand the leading edge of the stab. Use the cross­section as your guide for sanding the final shape.

- 7 -

❏ 3. Pin the elevator halves to the plan. Locate and

test fit the 1/4" x 3" [6 x 75mm] dowel in place in the
cut-outs on the LE of the elevator. When you are
satisfied with the fit of the dowel, glue it in place with
6-minute epoxy.

❏ 4. Locate the 2" x 9" [50 x 230mm] hinge material

and cut sixteen hinges as shown in the above sketch.

USING CA HINGES

The hinge material supplied in this kit consists of a
3 layer lamination of Mylar and polyester. It is
specially made for the purpose of hinging model
airplane control surfaces. Properly installed, this
type of hinge provides the best combination of
strength, durability and ease of installation. We trust
even our best show models to these hinges, but it
is essential to install them correctly. Please follow
the instructions carefully to obtain the best results.
These instructions may be used to effectively install
any of the various brands of CA hinges.

The most common mistake made by modelers
when permanently installing this type of hinge is
not applying a sufficient amount of glue to fully
secure the hinge over its entire surface area; or,
the hinge slots are very tight, restricting the flow
of CA to the back of the hinges. This results in
hinges that are only “tack glued” approximately
1/8” to 1/4” into the hinge slots. The following
technique has been developed to help insure
thorough and secure gluing.

Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge does
not slide in easily, work the knife back and forth in
the slot a few times to provide more clearance (it
is really the back edge of the blade that does the
work here in widening the slot).

B. Drill a 3/32” [2.4mm] hole, 1/2” [13mm] deep,
in the center of the hinge slot. If you use a Dremel
Moto-Tool® for this task, it will result in a cleaner
hole than if you use a slower speed power or
hand drill. Drilling the hole will twist some of the
wood fibers into the slot, making it difficult to
insert the hinge, so you should reinsert the knife
blade, working it back and forth a few times to
clean out the slot.

C. Trial fit the hinges into the slots and, without
using any glue, temporarily attach the control
surface, to verify the fit.

❏ 5. Mark a centerline down the LE of the elevator.

Repeat this for the trailing edge of the stab. Using the
plan as your guide, mark the location for each of the
hinges on the stab and elevator, then cut matching slots
in the stab and elevator. The Great Planes Slot
Machine™ (GPMR4010) works very well and makes the
job of cutting hinge slots fast and easy! If you do not
have a Slot Machine use the Expert Tip that follows.

A. Cut the hinge slot using a #11 blade in a
standard #1 knife handle. The CA hinges provided
have a thickness that fits this type of slot very well.

- 8 -

STOP! DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES IN PLACE

UNTIL AFTER THE MODEL IS COVERED!

❏ 6. Sand the elevator to its final shape, matching

the contours you sanded on the stab and sanding the
leading edge to a “V” shape as shown on the plan.
You will notice on the plan that there is a dashed line
on the elevator trailing edge forming a scalloped
shape. This pattern is provided for you if you decide
that you would like to have a scalloped TE. We did
this on the model shown on the box cover. Use the
plan as your guide for cutting the scalloped edge
should you decide to do this option.

Build the Fin and Rudder

❏ 1. Tape the Fin and Rudder Plan view to your

building board. Cover the plan with Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Locate two sets of die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa fin

leading edge pieces. One set is short the other is

long. Glue the two long fin leading edge pieces
together to form one 1/4" [6mm] fin leading edge. Do
the same with the short set.

❏ 4. From the remaining piece of the 1/4" x 1-3/4" x

36" [6 x 32 x 914mm] balsa sheet, cut the rudder tip
and the 1-3/4" portion of the rudder. Using leftover
¼" x ½" stick, cut the stick to a length of 9". Glue the
stick to 1/4" x 1-3/4" x 36" [6 x 32 x 914mm] portion
of the rudder forming a 2-1/4" wide rudder.

❏ 5. Glue the two rudder parts together.

❏ 6. From 3/32" x 1/4" [2.4mm x 6mm] balsa stick,

cut out cap strips and glue them in place on the fin
ribs. Do this on both the left and right side of the fin
the same way as you did for the horizontal stab.
Note: On the fin cross-section you will see that the cap
strips extend across the leading and trailing edge.

❏ 7. Sand the cap strips to the shape shown on the

fin cross-section. This is also a good time to final
sand the leading edge of the fin. Use the cross­section as your guide for sanding the final shape.

BUILD THE WING

Frame the Wing

❏ ❏ 1. Tape the Right Wing Plan view to your

building board. Cover the plan with Plan Protector.

❏ ❏ 2. Locate one of the shaped balsa leading

edges and one of the shaped balsa trailing edges.

Cut each of them to a length of 29-3/4" [759mm]. Be
sure to save the leftover pieces. They will be used as
filler blocks later in the building process.

❏ ❏ 3. Locate two 1/4" x 3/8"x 30" [6 x 9.5 x 760mm]

basswood spars. Cut each of them to a length of
29-3/4" [756mm].

❏ ❏ 4. Locate two 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" balsa [4.8 x

4.8 x 914mm] leading edge sub spars. Cut each of

them to a length of 29-3/4" [759mm].

❏ 3. Cut the 1/4" x 1/2" x 36" [6 x 12 x 914mm] balsa

stick to make the frame structure of the fin. Glue the
parts together to create the fin framework. Cut the
1/4" x 1/4" x 36" [6 x 6 x 914mm] balsa sticks to fit
between the fin frame as shown on the plan. Glue
them in place.

❏ 8. Mark a centerline down the LE of the rudder.

Repeat this for the trailing edge of the fin. Using the
plan as your guide, mark the location for each of the
hinges on the fin and rudder, then cut matching slots
in the fin and rudder using the same procedure you
used for the stab and elevator. Sand the rudder and
the fin to the shape shown on the cross-section. Be
sure to make the oval cut out in the rudder for the
elevator to pass through.

❏ 9. Trial fit the hinges into the slots and without

using any glue, temporarily attach the control surface
to verify the fit.

❏ 10. The plan shows the option of a scalloped

trailing edge on the rudder just as the elevator did. If
you chose to scallop the elevator you may want to
scallop the rudder as well.

- 9 -

❏ ❏ 5. Pin one of the basswood spars to the plan

with T-Pins.

❏ ❏ 6. Test fit the die-cut 3/32" {214mm] balsa W1

ribs over the basswood spar in the locations shown

on the plan.

❏ ❏ 7.

Test fit the W2 rib at the end of the basswood spar.

❏ ❏ 8. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] plywood

dihedral gauge. Place the gauge flat on the building
board at the root of the wing and against the side of
the W1 rib. Once you are satisfied with the rib
placement, use CA to glue the rib to the basswood
spar. Important! Be sure you use the gauge to set
the angle of the rib. Failure to do so will not provide
the wing with the required amount of dihedral.

❏ ❏ 9. Use CA to glue each of the ribs onto the

basswood spar. Make sure that each of the ribs is
perpendicular to the building board.

❏ ❏ 12. Glue each of the remaining ribs to the

shaped balsa leading edge, centering them as you go.

❏ ❏ 13. Place the shaped balsa trailing edge in

position as shown on the plan. The trailing edge should
be placed flat on the building board and against each of
the ribs. When satisfied with the fit, glue the trailing
edge in place to the eleven W1 ribs and the W2 rib.

❏ ❏ 16. Locate one of the 3/32" x 1" x 30" [2.4 x 25 x

760mm] balsa trailing edge sheets. Cut it to a length
of 29-3/4" [756mm]. Glue it in place on the trailing edge
of the wing.

❏ ❏ 10. Glue the 3/16" x 3/16" x 29-3/4" [4.8 x 4.8

x756mm] balsa leading edge sub spar into the
notches in the top of the wing. Glue the 1/4" x 3/8" x
29-3/4" [6 x 9.5 x 756mm] basswood top spar into the
notches in the top of the wing.

❏ ❏ 11. Beginning at one end of the wing, center the

shaped balsa leading edge on the front of the rib.
Glue it to the rib. Center the leading edge on the rib
at the opposite end of the wing and glue it in place.

❏ ❏ 14. Locate one of the 3/32" x 1-1/8" x 30" [2.4 x

28 x 760mm] balsa leading edge sheets. Cut it to a
length of 29-3/4" [756mm]. Using a sanding block,
bevel one edge of the sheet to get a good fit between
the sheeting and the leading edge of the wing.

❏ ❏ 15. Glue the leading edge sheeting in place

between the leading edge and the balsa leading edge
sub spar.

- 10 -

❏ ❏ 17. From the 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 75 x 610mm]

balsa sheet, cut out six shear webs. When cutting the
shear web be sure the grain is perpendicular to the
wing spars. Position the shear webs on the wing
spars as shown on the plan. When satisfied with the
fit, glue them in place.

❏ ❏ 18. From a sheet of 3/32" x 3" x 30" [2.4 x 75 x

760mm] balsa sheet, cut three pieces 4-3/8" [111mm]
in length. Edge glue the three sheets together to form
a sheet 4-3/8" x 9" [11 x 229mm]. Once the glue has
dried, cut the sheeting to fit between the leading
edge sheet and the trailing edge sheet as shown on
the plan.

Install the Wing Joiners

Important!

The following steps are for the right wing panel.

❏ ❏ 19. Place the sheeting flat on the bench and

sand the joints of the sheeting smooth on the side
that will be the top of the wing. When you have
completed the sanding and are satisfied with the fit,
glue the sheeting in place between the leading edge
and trailing edge sheeting.

❏ ❏ 20. From 3/32" x 1/4" x 36" [214 x 614 x

914mm] balsa stick, cut and glue nine cap strips into
place. Cut each one to fit between the leading edge
sheeting and the trailing edge sheeting on each rib.

❏ ❏ 21. Remove the wing from the building board

and turn it over. Glue the 3/16" x 3/16" x 29-3/4"
balsa [4.8 x 4.8 x 756mm] leading edge sub spar in
the notches in the bottom of the wing.

❏ 22. Repeat steps 1-21 for the left wing.

❏ 1. At the root rib, cut a 1/8" [3mm] slot in W1 as

shown for the leading edge and trailing edge brace.
Cut a 1/16" [1.6mm] slot through two W1 ribs for the
dihedral brace.

❏ 2. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] plywood leading

edge and trailing edge brace as well as the laser-cut

1/16" [1.6mm] plywood dihedral brace. Mark a
centerline on each of them.

❏ 3. Test fit each of the braces in the slots you just

cut. When fitting the braces it is important that they
are installed properly. Important! The top of the
brace must be glued so that it is in contact with the
top sheeting of the wing.

- 11 -

❏ 4. When you are satisfied with the fit of each

brace, glue them in place with 30-minute epoxy. Use
the center line you made on each brace as a guide
to position the brace. It is important that exactly half
of each brace goes into each wing panel. Set the
wing panel aside until the epoxy has fully cured.

❏ 5. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] ply sub spar dowel

brace to the balsa sub spars as shown on the plan.

Finish the Bottom of the Wing

❏ ❏ 1. For the right wing panel, locate a 3/32" x

1-1/8" x 30" [2.4 x 28 x 760mm] balsa bottom leading
edge sheet. Cut it to a length of 29-3/4" [756mm].
Bevel one edge of the sheet as you did with the
sheeting on the top of the wing. When you are
satisfied with the fit, glue the sheeting in place on the
bottom of the wing.

❏ ❏ 2. Locate a 3/32" x 1" x 30" [2.4 x 25 x 760mm]

balsa bottom trailing edge sheet. Cut it to a length of
29-3/4" [756mm]. Glue it in place on the trailing edge
of the bottom of the wing.

❏ ❏ 3. Sheet the center section of the bottom wing

following the same procedure you used for sheeting
the center section on the top of the wing.

❏ ❏ 4. From 3/32" x 1/4" x 36" [2.4 x 6.4 x 914mm]

balsa sticks, cut nine cap strips. Cut each one to fit
between the leading edge sheeting and the trailing
edge sheeting on each rib.

❏ ❏ 5. On the wing plan there are four locations

shown for 3/8” x 3/8” [9.5 x9.5mm] basswood blocks.
The blocks are provided in the kit and are cut to the
lengths shown on the plan. If you plan to install wire
and turnbuckles on your model, proceed with
installing the basswood blocks as shown on the plan.
If you choose to use the elastic cord as we did on our
model then you can substitute balsa blocks for the
basswood. The balsa is a little easier to work with
than the basswood and will retain the elastic cord
better than the basswood. Locate the 3/8” x 3/8” x 18”
[9.5 x 9.5 x 457mm] balsa stick and cut it to the
length specified on the plan for each of the four
blocks. Glue the blocks on the positions shown on
the plan.

❏ ❏ 6. Whether you have installed the balsa or

basswood blocks, drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through
the center of the entire length of the block.

❏ ❏ 7. Locate the 30" [762mm] shaped balsa

aileron. From one end of the aileron cut a piece

2-3/16" [55.8mm] in length.

❏ ❏ 9. Cut a slot as shown in the photo along the

centerline starting at the end. The slot needs to be
1/8" [ 3mm] wide to accommodate the torque rod.
The slot can be cut easily with the Great Planes®
Groove Tube™ (GPMR8140) or the slot can be cut
with your hobby knife. Notice that these blocks are
not symmetrical so make the one for the left wing the
mirror image of this one.

❏ ❏ 10. Cut another slot perpendicular to the slot you

just cut to accommodate the arm of the torque rod.

You now need to make a decision. When the Elder
was originally introduced it had flying and landing
wires on it. Though these wires are not a structural
part of this model, they do add a great “Vintage” look
to the model. If you have ever installed wires and
turnbuckles you know there is some additional work
and cost to do this. For our model we used elastic
cord to simulate the flying wires. This was much
easier and less expensive than using actual wire. We
will give complete instructions for installing wire or
elastic flying wires as we get further into the building
process. If you choose not to install any of the wires
skip steps 5 & 6.

❏ ❏ 8. Mark a centerline on this piece of aileron

stock. Make another mark 1-3/4" [44mm] from the
end of the block.

- 12 -

❏ ❏ 11. Glue the block with the torque rod in place

in the slot, being careful not to get any glue onto the
metal wire. Tip – Apply a small amount of petroleum

jelly to the end of the plastic bearing. This will prevent
glue from getting onto the wire. Important! Before

gluing the block in place be sure that you have the
correct torque rod in place in the block. The
un-threaded arm of the torque rod should protrude
into the area where the aileron will be attached. The
threaded end of the arm will protrude towards the
bottom of the wing. Make sure that you install the
correct rod for each wing half.

Join the Wings

❏

1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] ply sub spar dowel
brace to the balsa sub spars on the left wing panel
as done on the right wing panel.

❏ 2. At the root rib of the left wing panel, cut two 1/8"

[3mm] slots in W1 at the leading edge and trailing
edge for the leading edge and trailing edge braces.
Cut a 1/16" [1.6mm] slot through the two W1 ribs for
the Dihedral Brace.

❏ 3. Test fit the two wing panels together, inserting

the wing joiners from the right wing panel into the
slots you just cut in the left wing panel.

Now that both of the wing panels are joined, go back
to the section, “Finish the Bottom of the Wing”.
Follow the instructions to finish the bottom of the left
wing the same way you did the right wing.

Build the Wingtip

❏ ❏ 3.

and make two marks on the bottom of the tip. From the
tip, measure down 5/8" [15.9mm] and draw a line
perpendicular from the edge of the wing tip. Measure
down from that line another 5/8" [15.9mm] and draw
another line perpendicular from the edge of the wing tip.

When satisfied with the fit, turn the wingtip over

❏ 4. When you are satisfied with the fit, mix 1 oz. of

30-minute epoxy. Glue the joiners and the wing
together with 30-minute epoxy, making sure you
apply liberal amounts to the joiner and the spars.
Before the glue dries, place one wing flat on the
building surface and measure the distance from the
table to the bottom of the wing. The distance should
be 1-3/4". Block the wing to maintain this distance
while the glue dries.

❏ ❏ 1. Locate the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa

wingtip parts. Glue the two pieces together to form
the completed wingtip.

❏ ❏ 2. On the right wing test fit the wing tip in place,

making sure you have a good fit between the tip and
the end of the wing.

- 13 -

❏ ❏ 4. With your hobby knife, score the lines half

way through the balsa. The scores will allow you to
bend the end slightly when installing the wing tip.

❏ ❏ 5. Using medium CA, glue the wingtip in place

to the end of the wing. Be sure that the wingtip and
the wing are flat on the building board before gluing