Top Flite A0210 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This

warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased
kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material
used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.
By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the

use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models P.O. Box 788 Urbana, Il 61803 Technical Assistance Call [phone] www.top-flite.com

CTD6P03 V1.1

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Entire Contents © Copyright 2000

™

™

Wingspan:

53-1/4" [1353 mm]

Wing Area:

660 sq. in.
[42.6 sq.dm.]

Weight:

6 - 6-1/2 lbs
[2721 - 2948 grams]

Wing Loading:

21 - 23 oz./sq. ft.
[64 - 70 g/sq.dm.]

Fuselage Length:

49-5/8" [1261 mm]

Engine Required:

2-Stroke .40 - .61 or
4-Stroke .52 - .70

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION..................................................3

PRECAUTIONS ...................................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ..........................3

Engine selection .............................................3

Flaps...............................................................3

Power requirements and propellers...............3

FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS.............................4

OTHER REQUIRED ITEMS ................................4

BUILDING SUPPLIES.........................................4

Glue & Fillers..................................................4

Tools...............................................................4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ........................5

DIE-CUT PATTERNS...........................................6

GET READY TO BUILD......................................7

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES.............................7

Build the stab .................................................7

Build the rudder..............................................8

Build the fin ....................................................8

Install the hinges............................................9

Install the control horns ................................10

BUILD THE WING .............................................11

Build the bottom of the wing.........................11

Build the top of the wing ..............................14

Build the ailerons..........................................16

Install the aileron control horns....................16

Build the flap ................................................16

Build the wing tips........................................17

Standard wing tips........................................17

Optional wing tips.........................................18

Install the aileron and flap hinges................18

BUILD THE FUSELAGE ...................................18

Frame the fuselage......................................18

Make the cowl..............................................23

Mount the wing.............................................24

Install the landing gear .................................24

Mount the stab .............................................25

INSTALL THE SERVOS AND PUSHRODS ......26

Make the pushrods.......................................26

Install the servos in the fuselage .................26

Install the aileron servos..............................27

Install the flap servo (optional).....................27

Install the battery, receiver and switch.........27

Prepare the canopy......................................27

FINISHING .........................................................28

Prepare the model for covering....................28

Balance the airplane laterally ......................28

Cover your model with MonoKote®..............28

Covering sequence......................................28

Join the control surfaces..............................29

FINISHING TOUCHES.......................................29

Decals ..........................................................29

Panel lines....................................................29

GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY...............29

Balance your model .....................................29

Final hookups and checks ...........................30

Control surface throws.................................30

PREFLIGHT.......................................................30

Identify your model.......................................30

Charge the batteries.....................................30

Balance the propeller...................................31

Ground check your model ............................31

Range check your radio...............................31

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS...................31

AMA SAFETY CODE ........................................31

FLYING...............................................Back Cover

Takeoff...........................................Back Cover

Flight ..............................................Back Cover

Landing ..........................................Back Cover

Your Top Flite Contender is not a toy, but a
sophisticated working model that functions very
much like an actual airplane. Because of its realistic
performance, if you do not assemble and operate
your Contender correctly, you could possibly injure
yourself or spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and
your first flights from an experienced,
knowledgeable modeler. You’ll learn faster and

avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready to
solo. Your local hobby shop has information about
flying clubs in your area whose membership
includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500
chartered clubs across the country. We recommend
you join the AMA which will insure you at AMA club
sites and events. AMA Membership is required at
chartered club fields where qualified flight instructors
are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

[phone]

Fax [phone]

or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

Your Top Flite Gold Edition Contender is intended for
scale and general sport flying including mild aerobatics
such as loops, stall turns, rolls, etc. Its structure is
designed to withstand such stresses. If you intend to
use your Contender for more abusive types of flying
such as racing or aggressive aerobatics it is your
responsibility to reinforce areas of the model that will be
subjected to the resulting unusually high stresses.

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTION

2

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the
Top Flite Gold Edition “Contender.” We are sure
you are eager to build and fly your Contender just as
we were eager to build and fly our prototypes. The
Contender was introduced thirty years ago and there
have been so many requests to bring it back that we
decided to remanufacture it to today’s high quality
standards for Top Flite Kits. You should find this kit
easy to build and a lot of fun to fly!

Get your other projects off your workbench, say
goodbye to your significant other for a while
and...keep reading!

Please inspect all parts carefully before you start to
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective,
or if you have any questions about building or
flying this model, please call us at [phone] or
e-mail us at [e-mail] and
we’ll be glad to help. If you are calling for
replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and the kit identification number
(stamped on the end of the carton) and have them
ready when you call.

PRECAUTIONS

1.You must build the plane according to the plan and
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.

In a few cases the plan and instructions may differ
slightly from the photos. In those instances you
should assume the plan and written instructions
are correct.

2.You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first
class condition, the correct sized engine and correct
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout your
building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly on
the ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model
before every flight to insure that all equipment is
operating and you must make certain that the model
has remained structurally sound.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,
you must fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced R/C pilot.

Remember: Take your time and follow instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

Recommended engine size:

.40 to .61 cu. in. [7.5cc to 10cc] 2-stroke
.52 to .70 cu. in. [8.5cc to 11.5cc] 4-stroke

Your Top Flite Gold Edition “Contender” will
perform well with any of the engines within the
recommended range. We flew our prototype with
the O.S.®40LA and the 60FP™and both engines
had more than ample power.

FLAPS

Your Contender is designed to incorporate a
center flap; however, the flap is optional and not
necessary for an excellent flying experience.
Without the flap, the takeoff roll is a bit longer and
the landing speed is slightly faster. If you do not
wish to build the flap, just disregard those parts of
the manual involving operational flap construction.

The flap is not difficult to build and it operates
well. The flap adds nicely to the model’s flight
characteristics. Very minor trim changes were
needed for our prototype when the flap was
lowered. You will find more information on the use
of the flap in the flying section.

The flap requires one additional standard servo.

POWER REQUIREMENTS AND PROPELLERS

We did our test flying using Top Flite®Power Point

®

Propellers and an OS .60FP engine. With the .60
2-stroke engine the model flew very well. A .61 will
provide more power than the model needs, but you
will appreciate the extra power when vertical
maneuvers are being performed. Initial test flights
were with the Power Point 11x7 propeller. As with
any model, you may experiment with different
propellers to find out what type works best for you.

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a
top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.

3

FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS

During our flight testing we found no bad
characteristics in this airplane. Takeoffs were
straightforward with good ground handling. The
plane was airborne in approximately 100 feet [30m].
Once the plane is flying it goes exactly where you
point it. Depending on how you set up the model,
rolls can be very slow or very fast. Power-off stalls
were very soft and predictable with only the nose
dropping in the stall. There was no tendency for the
wing to tip stall. Landings were straightforward with
or without the flap. Without the flap you should
maintain a bit more airspeed on your approach. With
full flap deployment the plane slows very nicely and
allows for a very soft landing. If you have never flown
with flaps this an excellent model to learn with.

OTHER REQUIRED ITEMS

These are additional items you will need to complete
your Contender that are not included with your kit.
Order numbers are in parentheses (GPMQ4130).
Our exclusive brand is listed where possible: TOP is
the Top Flite®brand, GPM is the Great Planes

®

brand, and HCA is the Hobbico®brand.

❏ 4 to 5 Channel radio with 4 to 5 servos
❏ Engine

O.S. Engines Prop

.40 LA 10 x 6, 10 x 7
.61 FX 2-stroke 11 x 7, 12 x 6
FS .52 11 x 6, 11 x 7

FS .70 Surpass™4-stroke 13 x 8

Super Tigre

®

Prop

G-51 2-stroke 10 x 7, 11 x 6
G-61 2 stroke 11 x 7, 12 x 6

❏ Propellers appropriate for your engine
❏ (3) 2-1/2" [64mm] Wheels (GPMQ4223)
❏ (1) 8 - 10 oz. [240 - 300cc] Sullivan Flex Tank

(SULQ1739 or SULQ1740)

❏ (2) 12" [305mm] Servo Extensions (3 if optional

flap is used)

❏ (1) Y-connector
❏ (1) 3 feet [914mm] Medium Silicone Fuel Tubing

(GPMQ4131) (12" needed for the model)

❏ (1) 2-1/2" [64mm] Spinner (GPMQ4525)
❏ (1) 1/4" [6mm] (HCAQ1000) Foam Rubber Padding
❏ (2) rolls of Top Flite Super MonoKote

®

covering

❏ (1) 2" [50mm] 1/6th Scale Pilot

BUILDING SUPPLIES

Here’s a checklist of supplies you should have on
hand while you’re building. Some of these are
optional. Use your own experience to decide what
you need. We recommend Great Planes Pro™CA
and Epoxy.

GLUE/FILLER

❏ 4 oz. [120g] Thin CA (GPMR6004)
❏ 4 oz. [120g] Medium CA+(GPMR6010)
❏ 2 oz. [60g] Thick CA- (GPMR6015)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ CA Debonder (GMPR6039)
❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ 4 oz. [120g] Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
❏ Lightweight Hobby Filler (Balsa Color, HCAR3401)

TOOLS

❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 qty.)
❏ Single Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312, 100 qty.)
❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510)
❏ Hobbico Builder’s Triangle (HCAR0480)
❏ T-Pins (HCAR5100 (S), HCAR5150 (M),

HCAR5200 (L)

❏ 1/4-20 Tap and drill (GPMR8105)
❏ 6-32 Tap and drill (GPMR8102)
❏ Tap wrench (GPMR8120)

❏ Drill Bits:

1/16" [1.6mm] 5/64" [2mm]

3/32" [2.4mm] 1/8" [3.2m
5/32" [4.0mm] 11/64" [4.4mm]
3/16" [4.8mm] 13/64" [5.2mm]

7/32" [5.6mm] 1/4" [6.4mm]
17/64" [6.7mm]

❏ Curved Tip Scissors (HCAR0667)
❏ Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167)

or wax paper

❏ Masking Tape
❏ Easy-Touch™Bar Sanders*
❏ Dremel®#178 cutting bit for countersinking

screws in the fuel tank hatch. (DRER1178)

RECOMMENDED COVERING

TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES

❏ Top Flite Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Top Flite Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)

-and-

❏ Top Flite Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Top Flite Hot Sock™(TOPR2175)

-or-

❏ 21st Century®Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
❏ 21st Century Cover Sock (COVR2702)

EASY-TOUCH™BAR SANDER

A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a
necessity for building a well finished model. Great
Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar

Sanders (patented) and replaceable Easy-Touch

4

Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. While building the

Contender we used two 5-1/2" [140mm] Bar Sanders
and two 1 1" [280mm] Bar Sanders equipped with 80­grit and 150-grit Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.
Here's the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders
and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper.

5-1/2" [140mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6169)

11" [280mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" [560mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" [840mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" [1120mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6176)

11" [280mm] Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12' [300mm] roll of Adhesive-backed sandpaper:

80-grit (GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
180-grit (GPMR6184)
220-grit (GPMR6185)

Assortment pack of 5-1/2" [140mm] strips (GPMR6189)
We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets)

and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry
sandpaper for finish sanding.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number
and a length.

For example #6 x 3/4" [19.1mm]

Machine screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch and a length.
For example 4-40 x 3/4" [19.1mm]

When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it
means that you should first position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, then slightly
modify or custom fit the part as necessary for the
best fit.

Whenever the term glue is used you should rely
upon your experience to decide what type of glue to
use. When a specific type of adhesive works best for
that step we will tell you what type of glue to use.
Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either
30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute
epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you
use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

Occasionally we refer to the top or bottom of the
model or up or down. To avoid confusion, the top or
bottom of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right side up and will be referred to as the
top even if the model is upside down during that
step, i.e. the top main spar is always the top main
spar even if the wing is upside down when you are
working on it. Similarly, move the former up means
move the former toward the top of the fuselage even
if the fuselage is upside down when you are working
on it.

When you get to each step, read that step completely
through to the end before you begin. Frequently
there is important information or a note at the end of
the step that you need to know before you start.

Photos and sketches are placed ahead of the step
they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in
following steps to get another view of the same parts.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

Deg = degrees Elev = elevator

Fuse = fuselage " = inches

LE = leading edge Ply = plywood

Stab = stabilizer TE = trailing edge

LG = landing gear mm = millimeters

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

Metric Conversion Chart

1” = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

Note: An inch/mm scale is provided on the

fuselage plan.

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm
3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

5

6

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

GET READY TO BUILD

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Roll them inside out so
they lie flat.

2. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a ballpoint
pen (not a felt tip pen) to lightly write the name or
size on each piece so you can identify it later. Use
the die-cut patterns on page 6, to identify and mark
the die-cut parts before you remove them from their
die sheets. Many of the parts already have numbers
stamped on them, but in some cases the number is
located alongside the parts or only on the die
drawings. You may remove all the die-cut parts from
their die sheets now or wait until you need them. If a
part is difficult to remove, don't force it out but cut
around it with a #11 blade. After you remove the
parts from their die sheets, lightly sand the edges to
remove slivers or die-cutting irregularities. Save
some of the larger leftover pieces of wood.

3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin,
wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top
food storage bags.

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

Build the stab

❏ 1.Work on a flat surface over the plan. Pin the stab
plan to the building board and cover the plan with

Plan Protector. Refer to the plan to identify the parts
and their location. The plan may be cut apart on the
dashed lines if space is a problem.

❏ 2. Locate and glue the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
balsa LE braces together to form one 1/4" LE brace.
Locate and glue the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa
stab centers together to form one 1/4" stab center.

❏ 3. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa stab center to the LE
brace as shown on the plan.

❏ 4. Pin the center section to the plan.

❏ 5. Locate the 1/4" x 3/8" x 12" [6.4 x 9.5 x 305mm]

basswood stab brace. Cut it to a length of 11" then
glue it to the aft edge of the stab center in the
location shown on the plan.

❏ 6. Use two 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" [6.4 x 9.5 x 762mm]
balsa sticks to make the frame for the stab. Cut the
sticks to the length shown on the plan and glue them
together to form the stab.

❏ 7. Use leftover pieces of the 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" [6.4
x 9.5 x 762mm] balsa sticks to make the 1/4"
[6.4mm] balsa gussets. Cut them as shown on the
plan and glue them in place.

❏ 8. Remove the stab from the plan. Shape the
corners and the center LE of the stab assembly as
shown on the plan. Pin the stab back to the building
board after you have shaped the stab.

❏❏9. Use two 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" [6.4 x 9.5 x 762mm]
balsa sticks to make the frames for the elevator. Cut
the sticks to the shape shown on the plan. Glue the
sticks together the same way the stab was
assembled. Make a left and right elevator.

7

❏❏10. Insert a T-pin through the center of the
elevator LE near the tip and near the root. Place a
straightedge across the T-pins and draw a
centerline on the elevator LE with a ball point pen.
This line is used as a reference when we install the
hinges in a later step. Draw a centerline along the TE
of the stab the same way.

❏❏11. Shape the LE of the elevator to a “V” as
shown on the plan. Use the line you have drawn as
a reference when sanding the LE.

❏❏12. Final sand the stab and elevator. Shape the
LE of the stab and the TE of the elevator as shown
in the cross-section on the plan. Hint:The Great

Planes Easy Touch Multi-Sander works great for
shaping the round LE and TE.

Build the rudder

❏ 1.Work on a flat surface over the plan. Pin the

rudder plan to the building board and cover the plan
with Plan Protector. The plan may be cut apart if
space is a problem.

❏ 2. Use one 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" [6.4 x 9.5 x 762mm]
balsa stick and leftover pieces of 1/4" x 3/8" x 30"
[6.4 x 9.5 x 762mm] balsa stick from the stab and
elevator to make the frame for the rudder. Cut the
sticks to the shape shown on the plan. Glue the
sticks together the same way the stab and elevator
were assembled.

❏ 3. Draw a centerline on the rudder LE the same
way it was done to the elevator.

❏ 4. Final sand the rudder. Shape the LE to a “V” the
same way it was done for the elevator and as shown
on the plan.

❏ 5. Shape the TE, top and bottom of the rudder to
the rounded shape shown on the plan.

Build the fin

❏ 1. Pin the fuselage plan to the building board and
cover the plan with Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Use one 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" [6.4 x 9.5 x 762mm]
balsa stick to make the frame of the fin. Cut the stick
to the lengths shown on the plan. Pin the sticks in place
as needed. Glue the sticks together to form the fin.

❏ 3. From 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2 x 6.4 x 762mm] balsa
stick, cut the cross braces and glue them in place at
the location shown on the plan.

❏ 4. Glue the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa aft
dorsal fin halves together, laminating them to make

a 1/4" [6.4mm] dorsal fin.
❏ 5. From 1/4" x 3" x 24" [6.4 x 76 x 610mm] balsa

sheet, cut the center dorsal fin to the size and
shape shown on the plan.

❏ 6. Glue the aft dorsal fin to the fin. Glue the center
dorsal fin to the aft dorsal fin. All of these parts must
be lying on a flat surface while gluing, to ensure a
flat, straight assembly.

8

❏ 7. Remove the assembly from the plan.
❏ 8. Final sand the fin assembly. Shape the LE of the

fin and the top of the dorsal fin to the shape shown
on the plan.

❏ 9. Draw a centerline on the TE of the fin in the
same manner as was done for the stab.

Install the hinges

❏ 1. Mark the location of the hinge slots on the
elevator halves, stab, fin and rudder where shown on
the plan.

We have simplified the task of cutting hinge slots
with the introduction of the Great Planes Slot

Machine™. This simple electric tool cuts a perfect

width slot for use with CA hinges.

To cut the hinge slot place the blades onto the wood
where you want the slot. Lightly press the teeth into
the wood. When you are satisfied with the location
press the button on the handle and the blades will
cut easily into the balsa wood.

If you choose not to purchase a Slot Machine you
can make the slots following these instructions.

❏ 2. Cut the hinge slots in the elevators, stab, fin and
rudder along the centerlines you marked earlier with
a #11 blade.

❏ 3. Using the sketch above, cut nine hinges from
the CA hinge strip supplied with the kit. Snip the
corners off so they go into the slots easier. You may
cut all nineteen hinges that will be used for the
airplane or just cut them as you need them.

❏ 4. Test fit the hinges into the slots. If the hinges do
not slide into the slots easily, work your knife blade
back and forth in the slot a few times to provide more
clearance (it is really the back edge of the blade that
does the work here in widening the slot).

IMPORTANT NOTES ABOUT CA HINGES

This kit is supplied with a CA hinge material
consisting of a 3-layer lamination of Mylar and
polyester. It is specially made for hinging model
airplane control surfaces. When properly installed,
this type of CA hinge provides the best combination
of strength, durability and easy installation. We trust
all of our Gold Edition warbirds to these hinges, but
it is essential to install them correctly. Carefully
follow the hinging instructions in this manual for the
best result.

The most common mistake made by modelers when
installing CA hinges is making the hinge slots too
tight restricting the flow of CA to the back of the
hinges; or not using enough glue to fully secure the
hinge over its entire surface area. This results in
hinges that are only tack glued into the hinge slots.
The techniques for cutting the hinge slots and gluing
in CA hinges (near the end of the manual) have been
developed to ensure thorough and secure gluing.

9

❏ 5. Drill a 3/32" [2.40mm] hole, 1/2" [13mm] deep in
the center of the hinge slots. Use a rotary tool with a
3/32" [2.40 mm] drill bit or a carbide cutter for the
best results. Re-insert your knife blade to clean out
the slot after you drill the hole.

❏ 6. Test fit the elevator halves to the stab with
the hinges.

❏ 7. Position the elevator joiner wire on the trailing
edge of the stab and center it between the elevators.
Mark the LE of both elevators where the joiner will enter.

❏ 8. Cut a slot in the leading edge of both elevator
halves to accommodate the joiner wire. This can be
done easily with the Great Planes “Groove

Tube”™ as shown in the photograph. Hint: If you do
not have a Groove Tube, use a 5/32" [4mm] brass
tube sharpened at one end to cut the slot.

❏ 9. Accurately drill holes in the elevators for the 1/8"
joiner wire. Begin by drilling a 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot
hole. Then drill the final hole to a depth of 7/8"
[22.2mm] with a 9/64" [3.6mm] drill bit. (The hole is
drilled slightly oversize to allow for positioning and to
create a hard epoxy “sleeve” around the wire).

❏ 10. Roughen the joiner wire with coarse sandpaper,
then clean the wire thoroughly with alcohol to remove
any oily residue.

❏ 11. Test fit the joiner wire into the elevators. Then,
glue it in using epoxy. When gluing, lay the elevators
on a flat surface with the LE along a straightedge to
insure perfect alignment. Cover the top of the joined
elevators with a sheet of wax paper. Then, lay a flat,
heavy object on top. A telephone book works well.
This will insure a true flat elevator assembly when
the epoxy cures.

Install the control horns

❏ 1. Place a large control horn at the location
indicated on the elevator plan and rudder plan. Use
a ballpoint pen to mark the location where the holes
need to be drilled.

❏ 2. Check for correct alignment. Drill two 3/32"
[2.4mm] holes for the control horn mounting bolts
through the rudder .

❏❏3. Repeat step 2 for the right half of the elevator.
❏ 4. Apply a small drop of thin CA in the holes to

harden the wood. Redrill the holes after the CA
has hardened.

❏ 5. Attach the control horn to the left side of the
rudder with two 2-56 x 1/2" [12.7mm] machine
screws.

❏ 6. Attach the control horn to the bottom right side
of the elevator with two 2-56 x 1/2" [12.7mm]
machine screws.

There, that went pretty quick. If your workbench is a
mess, clean it off and get ready to move on to the wing!

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