Top Flite A0155 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does

not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves
the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed
nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting
liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused

condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models P.O. Box 788 Urbana, Il 61803 Technical Assistance Call [phone] [e-mail]

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

SEAF6P01 for TOPA0155 V1.0

Entire Contents © Copyright 2001

Wingspan: 66 in [1,675mm]
Wing Area: 842 sq in [54.3 sq dm]
Weight: 10 - 12 lbs [4,540g - 5,440g]
Wing Loading: 27 - 30 oz/sq ft

[82 - 92 g/sq dm]

Length: 58 in [1,475mm]

Scale: 1:7

™

MADE IN

USA

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Engine recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Landing gear options . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Spinner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Cockpit and pilot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Trim scheme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Scale competition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED. . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Hardware and accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Adhesives and building supplies . . . . . . . . . 5

Optional supplies and tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

METRIC CONVERSIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

TYPES OF WOOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

PREPARE TO BUILD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

DIE-CUT PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 &9

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Make the stab and fin skins. . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Build the fin and rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Finish the fin and rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Build the stab and elevators . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Finish the stab and elevators. . . . . . . . . . . 17

BUILD THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Make the wing skins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Prepare the landing gear ribs . . . . . . . . . . 18

Frame the center section. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Mount the retracts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Mount the fixed landing gear . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Sheet the bottom of the center section . . . 23

Build the inner flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Fit the retracts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Mount the flap servos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Build the outer wing panels . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Build the ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Join the wing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Build the outer flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Hinge the flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Connect the inner flaps to the outer flaps . 34

BUILD THE FUSELAGE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Frame the bottom of the fuselage . . . . . . . 35

Sheet the aft fuse bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

Sheet the front fuse bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

Mount the tail gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Mount the wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Make the wing fillets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Frame the top of the fuselage . . . . . . . . . . 45

Join the stab to the fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Join the fin to the fuse. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

Fit the air intakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Mount the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Mount the cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Finish the engine compartment . . . . . . . . . 52

Complete radio installation . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

Cut the cockpit opening. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

Scale display propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

Final preparations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

Trim scheme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

Cover the model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

Arresting hook. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58

Painting. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58

Paint the canopy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59

FINAL ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

Mount the canopy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

Join the control surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

Hook up the controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61

Apply the decals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62

Add panel lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . . . . 63

Check the control directions . . . . . . . . . . . 63

Set the control throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

Balance the model (C.G.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

Balance the airplane laterally . . . . . . . . . . 64

PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

Identify your model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

Charge the batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

Balance propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

Ground inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

Range check. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS. . . . . . . . . . 65

AMA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

CHECK LIST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

Landing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the

Top Flite

Gold Edition

Hawker Sea Fury. The Sea

Fury is the type of plane that makes an ideal scale
model no matter what the size (we can’t take all the
credit for a great-flying model!). Because of its large
wing area and long tail moment, you’ll find that the
Sea Fury is stable and predictable in the air.
Additionally, this Top Flite

Gold

kit incorporates
airfoils specially designed for Top Flite’s warbirds
(S8036 at the root and S8037 at the tip). These
airfoils provide slower stall speeds and gentle stall
characteristics making Gold Edition kits among the
friendliest flying warbirds around!

When it comes to construction, the high number of
die-cut parts minimizes carving and fitting, while
complete instructions guide you through every detail.
Without adding any additional scale details you’ll end
up with a model that very much represents a Hawker
Sea Fury. With a little research and some scale
documentation you can go “all-out” and make your
Sea Fury a show-winning model.

1. Your Sea Fury should not be considered as a toy, but
rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its
performance capabilities, the Sea Fury, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

- 2 -

2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as

doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.
In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly
from the photos. In those instances the written
instructions should be considered as correct.

3. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first­class condition, and a correctly sized engine and
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the
building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly on
the ground and in the air.

6. You must check the operation of the model before
every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and
that the model has remained structurally sound. Be
sure to check clevises or other connectors often and
replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,
you should fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced R/C pilot.

8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed
normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely
high stress flying, such as racing, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high
stress points.

Remember: Take your time and follow the
instructions to end up with a well-built model
that is straight and true.

Before starting to build, compare the parts in this
kit with the Parts List and the die drawings, and
note any missing parts. Also inspect all parts to
make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any
parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you
have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at [phone], or e­mail us at [e-mail]

you are contacting us for replacement parts,
please be sure to provide the full kit name (Top
Flite Gold Edition .60 Sea Fury) and the part
numbers as listed in the Parts List.

You can also check our web site at

www.greatplanes.com for the latest updates.

If you have not flown a scale model before, we
recommend that you get the assistance of an
experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first
flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area
whose membership includes experienced pilots.

In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly
recommend you join the AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics). AMA membership is required to fly at
AMA sanctioned clubs. There are over 2,500 AMA
chartered clubs across the country. Among other
benefits, the AMA provides insurance to its members
who fly at sanctioned sites and events. Additionally,
training programs and instructors are available at
AMA club sites to help you get started the right way.
Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

This is a list of items required to finish the Sea
Fury that must be purchased separately and
require a bit of decision making ahead of time.
Order numbers (in parentheses) are provided for
your convenience.

ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS

The official engine size recommendation range for
the Sea Fury is .61 to .91 cu. in. [10.0 to 15.0cc]
two-stroke or .91 to 1.2 cu. in. [10.0 to 19.8cc] four­stroke. Our first Sea Fury prototype was flown with
an O.S.®FS-.91 Surpass™II (OSMG0896) which
was more than enough power. Our second
prototype (and the model featured in this
instruction manual and on the kit box
cover–weighing-in at eleven pounds) was flown
with an O.S. .61 FX (OSMG0561). Please take this
advice: The Sea Fury does not need to be
overpowered. Even “all-up” with flaps, retracts,
cockpit kit and pilot, the .61-powered model flew
best at about half to three-quarters throttle and
had plenty of reserve power for scale maneuvers
such as loops, chandelles and steep climb-outs. If
you already happen to have a larger engine, it
could be used in this model (as long as it is within
the size recommendation). But, if you are still
deciding which engine to purchase, a strong .61
two-stroke or a .91 four-stroke is highly
recommended. Flying the Sea Fury with a 1.20
may be within the size recommendation, but an
engine of this size does approach “over-kill,” so
prudent throttle management must be exercised.
Remember, this is a scale model that is intended
to fly in a scale-like manner.

If using a .61 to .75 two-stroke engine, the Top
Flite in-cowl Warbird muffler (TOPQ7915) is
recommended because it may be fully concealed
inside the cowl. The correct header is also
required to connect the

(continued on page 4)

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you
with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.

- 3 -

(8) #6 x 1/2" mounting screws
(GPMQ3160, pkg. of 8)
JB Weld epoxy
3/4 oz. glass cloth to reinforce the wing
sheeting inside the wheel wells (HCAR5000)

Optional: Robart air filler valve (ROBQ2368)

These items are required if installing Robart
retractable landing gear:

Robart #605HD 90-degree retracts (3/16"
[4.8mm] wire struts) (ROBQ0005)
Robart #188 Air control kit (ROBQ2388)
3/16" x 2" slip-on axles (GPMQ4278)
(2) Robart #190 Quick connectors
(ROBQ2395, pkg. of 2)
4" [102mm] Main wheels (ROBQ1518)
Robart #164G Hand Pump with Gauge
(ROBQ2363)
Servo to operate air control valve
3/4 oz. glass cloth to reinforce the wing
sheeting inside the wheel wells (HCAR5000)

SPINNER

The Sea Fury requires a 4" [102mm] spinner. A P-51­shape spinner looks better on this model than a
regular pointed sport spinner. Two C.B. Associates,
Inc. #5105 P-51 spinners (CBAQ5520) were used on
this model. One for static display (

see

page 55) and
one for flying. These spinners include the correct
adapter for the O.S. .61, but another adapter may be
required if using a different engine.

LANDING GEAR OPTIONS

The Sea Fury may be built with either fixed or
retractable landing gear. The pre bent fixed landing
gear wires are included with this kit, so the only
additional item required to build the Sea Fury with
fixed gear is 4" [100mm] wheels. If installing retracts,
there are two recommended options: The kit may be
built to accommodate Robart #605 HD retracts with
3/6" [4.8mm] wire struts (ROBQ0005) or Century Jet
Models #32425 Top Flite Sea Fury system with scale
struts (CJMQ4150). Instructions and are provided for
installation of either gear (see page 18 for additional,
important information on selecting retracts).

If installing the Century Jet Models #3235 Top Flite
System with 1/2" [13mm] diameter struts
(CJMQ4100) or any other system, the landing gear
rail spacing and/or position may require modification
to accommodate the gear.

Both Century Jet systems include all required
components including retracts, struts, air lines,
fittings, air control valve and air tank (some modelers
prefer to replace CJM’s air filler valve with Robart’s
air filler valve).Whichever retract system is installed,
an additional servo will be required to operate the air
control valve.

These items are required if installing Century
Jet Models retractable landing gear:

#32425 Top Flite Sea Fury system with scale
struts (CJMQ4100)

-or­#32325 Top Flite Sea Fury system with 1/2"
struts (CJMQ32325)

-and­Air pump (may use Robart air pump)
4" [102mm] Main wheels (ROBQ1518)
Servo to operate air control valve
Wheel cover mounts

muffler to the engine. For the O.S. .61 FX or SF
order TOPQ7920. For the Super Tigre®.61 to .75
G-series (muffler bolts go through the engine and
screw into the muffler) order TOPQ7926. For the
Super Tigre .61 to .75 K-series (muffler bolts go
through the muffler and screw into the engine)
order TOPQ7925. Additionally, a long silicone tube
will be required to connect the Top Flite in-cowl
muffler to the header. Aerotrend 3/4" [19.1mm]
inside diameter silicone tubing was used on this
model (AERG2220).
Note: The Top Flite in-cowl muffler is not
recommended for engines over .75 cu in.

Refer to the engine manufacturer’s recommendations
for selecting the correct propellers.

FLAPS

The Sea Fury may be built either with or without
flaps. Flaps are not necessary for an enjoyable
flying experience, but they do add greatly to scale
realism. Landing with flaps is a blast (and can be
safer) because the model is able to fly at reduced
speeds. Full instructions are included for building
the Sea Fury with flaps, but a little extra
craftsmanship and skill (not to mention a little
extra time) will be required.

These additional items are required to build
the Sea Fury with flaps:

(2) Standard servos

(1) Y-connector (HCAM2701– Futaba®)

(1) 6" [150mm] Servo extension (connected to

receiver for field setup (HCAM2000 for Futaba)

(10) Small Pivot Point Hinges

(GPMQ4001, pkg. of 15)

3/32" [2.4mm] brass tube

(for drilling holes for hinges)

- 4 -

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

Hardware and Accessories

In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions You
Must Make” section, following is the list of hardware

and accessories required to finish the Sea Fury.
Order numbers are provided in parentheses.

❏ Four to six-channel radio with five to eight servos
❏ (1) Y-connector for ailerons (HCAM2500 – Futaba)
❏ (3) 6" [150mm] Servo extension cords (ailerons - 2,

receiver for aileron - 1 (HCAM2701– Futaba)

❏ Switch/charging jack mount kit (GPMM1000)
❏ 12 oz. Fuel tank (GPMQ4105)
❏ Fuel line (3’, GPMQ4131)
❏ Fuel filler valve for glow fuel (GPMQ4160)
❏ 1" [25mm] Tail wheel (GPMQ4241)
❏ R/C Foam padding (1/4" [6mm], HCAQ1000, or

1/2" [13mm], HCAQ1050)

Adhesives and Building Supplies

In addition to common modeling tools (screw drivers,
hobby knives, drill, etc.), this is the “short list” of the
most important items required to build the Sea Fury.

We

recommend Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy glue.

Note: Additional CA may be required, but the quantity
listed below will get you started.

❏ 2 oz. Thin Pro CA (GPMR6003)
❏ 2 oz. Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6009)
❏ 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Pro™Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ CA accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ Lightweight, sandable balsa filler (NHPR2211)
❏ Supply of #11 blades (HCAR0211)
❏ Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0212)
❏ Medium T-pins (HCAR5150)

If you plan to enter the Sea Fury in scale
competition (it’s lots of fun, and the runways are
usually paved!), this kit may be entered in Fun
Scale, Sportsman Scale and Expert Scale classes
in AMA competition. All classes have the same
flight requirements in which you must perform ten
maneuvers, five of which are mandatory. The other
five are up to you–“easy” stuff like a slow, low
inspection pass with flaps extended, or maybe a
touch-and-go. If you have never competed in a
scale contest, you could start out in Fun Scale. In
Fun Scale, the only documentation required is any
proof that a full-size aircraft of this type, in the
paint/markings scheme on your model, did exist. A
single photo, a kit box cover from a plastic model,
or even a painting is sufficient proof! If you’re
interested, contact the AMA for a rule book that
will tell you everything you need to know. You can
find a contest schedule in the back of the AMA
magazine (Model Aviation).

One last note for those who are interested in scale
competition; Strive to build this model to reflect
your documentation. Whatever lines and features
appear on the full size plane should also appear
on the model.

Three-view drawings and photo packs of full size
Sea Furies are available from:

Scale Model Research

3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

[phone]

Fax: [phone]

COCKPIT AND PILOT

Your Sea Fury won’t be complete unless a Top
Flite Sea Fury Cockpit Kit (TOPQ8412) and Top
Flite 1/7 scale WW II Full Body Pilot (TOPQ9000)
are installed. The cockpit kit includes the floor,
side panels, instrument panel, seat, headrest and
accessories. It may be installed after the fuselage
is completed, but is easier to fit during
construction. The Top Flite pilot is the correct size
for this model and fits perfectly in the cockpit.

TRIM SCHEME

The trim scheme on the model on the kit box was
selected from a photo found on the Internet. It’s a
trim scheme of a racing plane, though it has a
military appearance. To duplicate the trim scheme
with MonoKote®, two 6' rolls of dove gray
(TOPQ0211) and one 6' roll of insignia blue
(TOPQ0207) are required. Additionally, a few feet
of black and white MonoKote are required for the
invasion stripes, and Top Flite LustreKote®white
primer (TOPR7801), dove gray (TOPR7211),
insignia blue (TOPR7207) and crystal clear
(TOPR7200) are required for painting (

see

FINISHING beginning on page 56 for full details
on painting and covering).

SCALE COMPETITION

The outline of the Top Flite

Gold Edition

Sea Fury
was derived from three-view drawings, photos and
highly detailed plastic model kits. Some areas of
the outline have been slightly changed to improve
flight characteristics. Notably, the area of the “tail
feathers” has been slightly increased to improve
directional stability and control.

The scale of this model is 1:7 (or 1:7.07 to be
more precise) which was derived by averaging the
scale wingspan and the scale length.

- 5 -

❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510)
❏ English size drill bits: 17/64" (or 1/4"), 1/4",

7/32", 3/16", 5/32", 1/8", 7/64", 3/32", 1/16"

-or-

❏ Metric size drill bits: 6.7mm (or 6.4mm), 6.4mm,

5.6mm, 4.8mm, 4mm, 3.2mm, 2.8mm, 2.4mm,

1.6mm

❏ 1/4-20 Tap and #7 [5.1mm] drill for wing bolts

(GPMR8105)

❏ 8-32 Tap and #29 [3.45mm] drill for engine

mounting (GPMR8103)

❏ Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol (to clean up

excess epoxy)

❏ Sanding tools and assorted sandpaper (

see

Easy-Touch™Bar Sander that follows)

Optional Supplies and Tools

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the
manual that will help you build the Sea Fury.

❏ Long handle 9/64" ball end hex wrench

(GPMR8004)

❏ Silver Solder (GPMR8070 w/flux)
❏ Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
❏ Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167) or

wax paper

❏ Dremel®#178 cutting bit (for countersinking

screws in the servo hatch covers)

❏ Robart®Super Stand II (ROBP1402)
❏ Great Planes CG Machine™(GPMR2400)
❏ Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700)

❏ Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475)
❏ Cutting mat (HCAR0456)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ 6-Minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ Milled fiberglass (GPMR6165)

❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)
❏ R/C-56 Canopy Glue (JOZR5007)
❏ Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❏ Mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
❏ Non-elastic monofilament or Kevlar fishing line

for stab and wing alignment (K+SR4575)

❏ Builders Triangle Set (HCAR0480) (for fin

alignment)

❏ Felt-Tip Marker (TOPQ2510)
❏ Small metal file
❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel
❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel

(GPMR8020)

❏ Curved Tip Canopy Scissors for Trimming

Plastic Parts (HCAR0667)

❏ Dead Center™ Engine Mount Hole Locator

(GPMR8130)

❏ Great Planes AccuThrow™Deflection Gauge (for

measuring control throws, GPMR2405)

EASY-TOUCH™BAR SANDER

A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a
necessity for building a well finished model. Great
Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar

Sanders (patented) and replaceable Easy-Touch
Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. While building the

Sea Fury, we used two 5-1/2" Bar Sanders and two
11" Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit
Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.

Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders

and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:

5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)

11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12’ roll of Adhesive-backed:

80-grit sandpaper (GPMR6180)
150-grit sandpaper (GPMR6183)
180-grit sandpaper (GPMR6184)
220-grit sandpaper (GPMR6185)

Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)

We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets)
and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry
sandpaper for finish sanding.

Recommended covering tools
and accessories

❏ Top Flite Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Top Flite Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)

-and-

❏ Top Flite Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Top Flite Hot Sock™(TOPR2175)

-or-

❏ 21st Century®Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
❏ 21st Century Cover Sock (COVR2702)

- 6 -

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

There are two types of screws used in this kit:

Sheet metal screws are designated by a number

and a length.

For example #6 x 3/4" long [19.1mm]

This is a number six screw that is 3/4" [19.1mm] long.

Machine screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch, and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4" long [19.1mm]

This is a number four screw that is 3/4" [19.1mm]
long with forty threads per inch

.

•

When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions,
it means that you should first position the part on
the assembly without using any glue, then
slightly modify or

custom fit

the part as necessary

for the best fit.

•

Whenever the term

glue

is written you should rely
upon your experience to decide what type of glue
to use. When a specific type of adhesive works
best for that step, the instructions will tell you what
glue is recommended.

•

Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either

30-minute epoxy or6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly
recommended that you use only 30-minute (or
45-minute) epoxy because you will need the
working time and/or the additional strength.

•

Photos and sketches are placed before the
step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in
following steps to get another view of the same parts.

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

PREPARE TO BUILD

1. A set of miniaturized building plans is included in
the middle of this manual. They may be removed and
used as a quick, handy reference, so you don’t have
to get out the full-size plans when you are not
building over them.

2. If you’ve already purchased the retractable
landing gear, or as soon as you do, take the air lines
out of the package. Unravel the lines and hang them
somewhere in your shop. When it’s time to install the
retracts, the kinks will be out of the lines and they’ll
be easier to work with.

(Continued on page 10)

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm
3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

METRIC CONVERSION

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

Plastic bags filled with lead shot are recommended
to be used as building weights because they
assume the shape of curved surfaces and apply
uniform pressure without making dents in balsa.
Shot can be purchased at sporting goods stores
where hunting supplies are sold. #6 shot is
recommended. One 25 lb. bag costs about fifteen to
twenty dollars. Small, sealable food storage bags
can be used to hold the shot. Tape the bags shut for
security. Each bag holds about two to three pounds.
Fifteen to twenty bags is adequate for this project.

- 7 -

- 8 -

PLY DIE-CUT PATTERNS

- 9 -

BALSA DIE-CUT PATTERNS

3. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a ballpoint
pen (not a felt tip pen) to lightly write the name or
size on each piece so it can be identified it later. Use
the

die-cut patterns

on pages 8 & 9 to identify and
mark the die-cut parts before removing them from
their die sheets. Many of the parts already have
numbers stamped on them, but in some cases the
numbers are located alongside the parts or only on
the die drawings in the manual. If a part is difficult to
remove from its die sheet, don’t force it out. Instead,
cut around the part with a hobby knife and a #11
blade. After removing the parts from their die sheets,
lightly sand the edges to remove slivers or die­cutting irregularities. As you proceed, it’s not
necessary to save every scrap of wood, but some of
the larger pieces of wood should be saved.

Note: If building the wing with fixed landing gear, do
not punch out the holes in ribs W4 and W5 for the
retractable landing gear rails.

4. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin,
wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top
food storage bags.

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

Make the stab and fin skins

❏ 1. Use the

Hot Tip

that follows or your own method
to make three 1/16" x 6" x 30" [1.6 x 152 x 762mm]
balsa sheets from six 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x
762mm] balsa sheets.

F. Place weights on top of the sheet to hold it flat
while the glue dries.

G. After the glue dries, remove the tape and
sand the sheets flat and even.

E. Press the joining edges of the sheets down to
make sure they are even. This is important and will
greatly minimize the amount of sanding required
(and thus prevent over-thinning the balsa).

D. Lay the sheets on your workbench covered
with Great Planes Plan Protector or wax paper.
Use a credit card or something similar as a
squeegee to simultaneously press the sheets flat
as you wipe the glue from the seam.

enough working time to get the sheets aligned.
Hardened CA is also much harder than balsa which
can make sanding difficult.

C. Turn the sheets over and apply slow drying glue
such as Great Planes

Pro

aliphatic resin
(GPMR6160) to the joining edges. Some modelers
prefer to use CA for gluing sheeting together, but
CA is not recommended because it does not allow

B. Use masking tape to tightly tape the trued
edges of the sheets together.

A. Use a straightedge to true one edge of two
balsa sheets.

HOW TO GLUE

BALSA SHEETING TOGETHER

Top Flite selects balsa that is intended for sheeting,
though occasionally a few of these sheets may have
a small nick or split near the ends. If your kit contains
a few of these sheets, arrange them and glue them
together so the defects will not interfere with the final
shape of the skin.

- 10 -

❏ 2. Set the sheets aside until it’s time to sheet the

tail surfaces.

Build the fin and rudder

❏ 1. Unroll the fuse plan sheet. Roll it inside out so

it will lie flat.

❏ 2. Position the fuse plan so the fin and rudder

are over your flat building board, or cut the fin and
rudder from the plan. Cover the plan with Great
Planes Plan Protector or wax paper so glue will not
adhere to the plan.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTE:

The fin is initially built and sheeted while lying on its
right side supported by the TE spars and ribs.

When it’s time to sheet the other side, the fin is turned
over and supported by the sheeting and TE spar on the
left side. The TE spars will be trimmed even with the
sheeting after the fin has been completed.

The stab and wing panels are built the same way, thus
simplifying construction and ensuring straight and true
flying surfaces (providing your workbench is flat). This
system also eliminates the requirement for jig tabs on
the ribs which can break off while removing the ribs
from the die sheets, or during construction.

❏ 3. Without using glue, join the die-cut 1/16"

[1.6mm] balsa fin ribs V 1 through V6 to the die-cut
1/8" [3.2mm] balsa vertical main spar (VMS), the
lower main spar (LMS), the upper TE spar (UTES),
the lower TE spars (LTES) and the rudder spar

(RS). Add the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa fin center
TE spar (CTS). Use T-pins to hold the assembly to

the plan.

❏ 4. Making certain that the vertical main spar, the

upper and lower TE spars and the ribs are contacting
the plan at their lowest point, use medium CA to glue
all the parts of the assembly together. Be certain to
pull the rudder spar all the way up into the notches of
the ribs when gluing it into position. Note: Use only
a small amount of CA on each glue joint. Avoid using
excess CA which will cause glue blobs that may
interfere with the sheeting that will be added later.

The Sea Fury was designed and built by Hawker
Aircraft Ltd., Sutton Lane, Langley, Bucks, England.

Note: Some modelers tend to sand the sheeting
too much after it is applied to the structure,
making low spots over supported areas (such as
over ribs and stringers) where fingers can easily
punch through. By following the procedure above
(specifically, by aligning the joining edges of the
sheets as shown in step E), little sanding should
be required. Most of the sanding that isrequired
should be done before the sheeting is glued in
place. The only sanding that should be required
after the sheeting is glued to the structure is final
sanding with 320-or 400-grit sandpaper.

Here are a few other things to keep in mind
while sanding balsa sheeting:

1. Sand the sheets on a flat work surface
free from hardened drops of glue or other
imperfections that will damage the sheeting.

2. Sand the sheeting only as much as
required. The inside needs to be sanded just
enough to remove excess glue and doesn’t have
to be smooth.

3. Though sanding

across

the grain
removes material faster, it leaves visible
scratches. Sanding

with

the grain is preferable,

especially when finish-sanding.

4. If the glue joint is uneven and requires
much sanding, it may be best to leave it slightly
uneven rather than over-sanding. A slightly uneven
glue joint is preferable to paper-thin balsa!

-11-

❏ 5. Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to

sand the front the fin ribs at an angle for the sub LE.

❏ 6. Cut the 1/16" x 1/2" x 30" [1.6 x 12.7 x 762mm]

balsa sub LE to the correct length, then glue it to the
front of the fin ribs. Save the remainder for the stab
sub LE’s. Sand the upward facing edge of the sub LE
even with the tops of the ribs.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 7. Remove any T-pins that will interfere with the fin

and rudder skins or that will be concealed beneath
the skins after they are glued in place. Using the fin
assembly as a guide, make a fin skin for the left side
of the fin from one of the balsa sheets you prepared
earlier. Be certain to make the skin slightly oversized
as it will be trimmed to exact shape later. Glue the
skin into position with thick CA or aliphatic resin.

❏ 8. Make a rudder skin the same way. Glue the

rudder skin into position. Hint: Pin a large balsa stick
to the building board aligned with the location of the
rudder TE on the plan. This will insure accurate
positioning of the skin.

❏ 9. Remove the assembly from the building board.

Sand the right side of the fin so the sub LE and spars
are even with the ribs.

❏ 10. Use the second balsa sheet you prepared to

make another fin and rudder skin. Place the sheeted
side of the fin/rudder assembly on the building
board. Glue the remaining fin skin only to the right
side of the fin.

❏ 11. Place the fin on your workbench or a platform

so the TE of the rudder is even with the edge.

❏ 12. Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to

sand the TE of the rudder to a fine point as shown in
the cross-section of the plan.

-12-

❏ 13. Glue the remaining rudder skin to the rudder.

When doing so, position the rudder so it is resting flat
on the workbench.

❏ 14. Glue both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa upper

stab saddles (USS) to the inside of the rudder

skins and rib V2 as shown on the plan. Trim the fin
skins even with the saddles and the lower main spar.

❏ 15. Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to

true the edges of the sheeting even with the sub LE
and rib V6. Sand the edges of the upper and lower
TE spar even with the fin sheeting.

❏ 16. Cut the fin LE from the 3/16" x 1/2" x 30" [4.8

x 12.7 x 762mm] balsa stick, then glue it to the fin.
Save the remainder of the balsa stick for the stab LE.

❏ 17. Sand both ends of the fin LE even with the top

and bottom of the fin. Use a razor plane followed with
progressively finer grits of sandpaper to round the fin
LE as shown in the cross-section on the plan.

❏ 18. Cut two 5-1/2" [140mm] pieces from the 1/4 x

2" x 11-7/8" [6.4 x 51 x 302mm] balsa sheet. Glue
the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa fin tip core (FTC)
between both 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa sheets with the
bottom edges aligned. Sand both 1/4" [6.4mm] outer
pieces even with the fin tip core.

❏ 19. Test fit the tip to the fin/rudder. Be certain the

tip is vertical and in alignment with both the fin and
rudder. If necessary make adjustments, then glue
the tip into position.

❏ 20. Use a razor plane followed by a bar sander to

shape the tip even with the fin and rudder sheeting,

but do not round yet. Hint: While sanding, rest the
bar sander on the sheeting, but apply pressure only
to the tip. If you fear sanding the sheeting too much,
protect it with a few strips of masking tape.

❏ 21. Finish shaping the tip by rounding and

smoothing. For scale appearance, note that the tip is
sanded rather thin, yet round.

Finish the fin and rudder

❏ 1. Separate the rudder from the fin by using a razor

saw to cut through the ribs and the tip. Use a bar sander
with 80-grit sandpaper to sand the remainder of the ribs
even with the fin TE and rudder spar.

❏ 2. Use a small square and a ballpoint pen to mark

the rudder where the counter balance is to be glued
on later (between ribs 3 & 4).

-13-

❏ 3. Sand the bottom of the rudder sheeting even

with the bottom rudder rib.

❏ 4. Trace the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa rudder

base core (RBC) onto one end of the 3/8" x 3" x 30"

[9.5 x 76 x 762mm] balsa sheet two times as shown.

❏ 5. Cut both pieces from the 3/8" [9.5mm] balsa

sheet and glue one on each side of the base core.
Glue the assembly to the bottom of the rudder.
Shape the rudder base to match the rudder, but do
not round until instructed to do so (after the fuse has
been constructed).

❏ 6. Cut the fin TE and the rudder LE from a 1/4"

x 3/4" x 30" [6.4 x 19.1 x 762mm] balsa stick and
glue them to the fin and rudder. Sand the fin TE even
with the fin and sand the rudder LE even with the
rudder. Temporarily tack-glue the rudder to the fin
with about five small drops of medium CA.

❏ 7. Final-sand the fin TE and rudder LE and the fin

and rudder tip even with each other. Break the
rudder free from the fin.

❏ 8. Mark a centerline on the trailing edge of the fin.

This can most accurately be done by sticking two

T-pins in the center of the TE–one near each end.
Position a straightedge against the T-pins and draw a
line with a ballpoint pen. Mark a centerline on the LE
of the rudder the same way.

❏ 9. Cut four 3/4" x 1" [19 x 25mm] hinges from the

2" x 9" [51 x 230mm] CA hinge strip supplied with
this kit. Snip the corners off so they go in easier.

❏ 10. Using the centerlines as a guide, cut the hinge

slots where shown on the plan with a Great Planes
Slot Machine, then proceed to step 11. If you do not
have a Slot Machine, follow the procedure that
follows to cut hinge slots with a hobby knife and a
#11 blade

(or run to the hobby shop and buy a

Slot Machine!).

-14-

How to cut hinge slots with a hobby knife

When using a hobby knife to cut hinge slots, one of
the most common mistakes made by modelers is
making the slots too tight. This restricts the flow of
CA to the back of the hinges. Another mistake made
when installing hinges is not using enough glue to
fully secure the hinge over its entire surface area.
This results in hinges that are only

tack glued

. Follow

these steps to cut hinge slots with a hobby knife:

A. Using the centerline as a guide, cut one of the
hinge slots in the fin or rudder where shown on the
plan with a #11 blade. Begin by cutting a shallow slit.
Make three or four cuts along the same line, going
slightly deeper each time. As you proceed, be
certain to go straight into the wood and move the
knife from side to side until the blade has reached
the correct depth for the hinge.

B. Test fit a hinge into the slot. If the hinge does not
slide into the slot easily, remove the hinge and

reinsert the knife working the blade back and forth a
few times to provide more clearance (it’s the back
edge of the blade that does the widening).

C. Cut the rest of the hinge slots the same way.

❏ 11. Temporarily join the rudder to the fin with the

hinges. If necessary, sand the fin and rudder so they

match up

well.

❏ 12. Use a razor plane followed by a bar sander to

shape the LE of the rudder to a “V” for control throw.
Make certain 1-5/8" [41mm] of right and left rudder
throw can be achieved. Increase the angle of the “V”
if necessary.

Hey, now all that has to be done on the rudder is
make the counter balance...

❏ 13. True the edges of the fin sheeting around the

cut-out for the counter balance where indicated by
the arrows in the photo. Notch the LE of the rudder
to accommodate the 3/4" x 1" x 1-1/4" [19.1 x 25.4 x
32mm] balsa counter balance where it will align
with the cut-out in the fin. Test fit the counter balance
into the notch and see how it matches up to the cut­out in the fin. Make adjustments where necessary.

❏ 14. Securely glue the counter balance to the

rudder. Sand the counter balance to match the
rudder, then round the leading edge just enough to
clear the fin.

❏ 15. Fill the small notches in the upper and lower

TE spars on the left side of the fin with lightweight
balsa filler. Allow to dry, then final-sand.

Full-Size Sea Fury Specifications:

Wingspan: 38'4" [11.7m]
Wing area: 280 sq ft [260 sq m]
Overall length (from tip of spinner to end of
rudder): 34'7" [10.5m]
Stab span: 14' [4.3m]
Max. gross weight: 14,600 lbs [6,623kg]
Normal weight: 12,316 lbs [5,587kg]

NOTES ABOUT CA HINGES

This kit is supplied with CA hinge material
consisting of a 3-layer lamination of mylar and
polyester specially made for hinging model
airplanes. When properly installed, this type of
CA hinge provides the best combination of
strength, durability and easy installation. We use
these hinges on all our Gold Edition warbirds, but
it is essential to install them correctly. Follow
the hinging instructions in this manual for the
best result. The techniques shown have been
developed to ensure thorough and secure gluing.

-15-

Build the stab and elevators

Note: The stabilizer is built upside-down. There is

nothing to remember or figure out ahead of time.
Simply build the stab as instructed.

❏ 1. Roll the wing plan inside out so it will lie flat.

Cut the stab plan from the wing plan and place it over
your flat building board. Cover the plan with Plan
Protector so glue will not adhere.

Refer to this photo for the following four steps.

❏ 2. Without using glue, join both sets of die-cut

3/32" [2.4mm] stab ribs S2 through S5 to both die-
cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa stab main spars (SMS).
Place the assembly over the stab plan. If necessary,
widen the notches in the ribs and spars so they fit at
the angle on the plan.

❏ 3. Still without glue, join both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

balsa stab TE spars (STES) and both die-cut 1/8"
[3.2mm] balsa elevator spars (ELES) to the ribs,
then pin the assembly to the building board aligned
over the plan. Glue the ribs to the main and TE spars.
Hint: Pin a large balsa stick to the building board at
both ends of the stab to help hold the two halves
together and maintain alignment.

❏ 4. Glue both die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa stab

ribs S1 together. Test fit, then use epoxy to glue the

die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood stab joiner (SJ) and
the S1’s to the assembly.

❏ 5. The same as was done on the fin, sand the

fronts of the ribs at an angle to match the sub LE.
Use the remainder of the 1/16" x 1/2" [1.6 x 12.7mm]
balsa stick used for the fin sub LE to make the stab
sub LE, then glue it into position. Sand the top of the
sub LE and spars even with the ribs.

❏ 6. Remove or relocate any T-pins that will interfere

with the sheeting or that will be concealed under the
sheeting after it's glued into place. Cut the top stab
and elevator skins from the second balsa sheet
prepared earlier. Glue the skins to the top of the stab
and elevators.

❏ 7. Remove the assembly from the plan. Use a

ballpoint pen to mark the side of the stab you just
sheeted as “bottom”.

❏ 8. Cut the hinge blocks from the 1/4" x 3/8" x 11-

7/8" [6.4 x 9.5 x 302mm] balsa stick, then glue them
to the stab TE spars where shown on the plan. Trim
the top of any hinge blocks where necessary so they
do not interfere with the top stab sheeting.

❏ 9. Cut the top stab and elevator skins from the

remainder of the balsa sheeting. With the stab lying

flat on the workbench, glue one of the stab skins into
position. When doing so, press down to hold the
sheeting to the structure and to hold the structure to
the flat work surface. Glue the other stab skin to the
stab the same way.

❏ 10. The same as was done on the rudder skin,

sand the TE of the bottom elevator skins to match
the tapering angle of the ribs. Glue the top elevator
skins into position.

❏ 11. True all the sheeting even with both ends of

the stab/elevators and the sub LE.

❏ 12. Cut the remainder of the 3/16" x 1/2" [4.8 x

12.7mm] balsa stick used for the fin LE into two pieces
for the stab LE, then glue it into position. Shape the LE
even with the stab, but do not round yet.

❏ 13. Place both die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa stab

tip cores (STC) over the plan. Note which end is the

front (they’re not symmetrical like the fin tip, but
they’re close). The same as you did for the fin tip, use
one of the stab tip cores to lay out the patterns on the
remainder of the 3/8" x 3" x 30" [9.5 x 76 x 762mm]
balsa sheet used for the rudder base. While you’re at
it, lay out the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa elevator
root core (ERC) patterns as well.

-16-

❏ 14. Cut the tips and roots from the balsa sheet.

Glue them to the die-cut cores. Glue the stab tips to
both ends of the stab and elevators and shape them
the same way you did the fin (in two stages: first
sanding the tips to match the stab and elevator, then
by rounding the tips).

Finish the stab and elevators

❏ 1. Use a ballpoint pen to mark the elevators in an

inconspicuous location as “L” and “R.” Cut the
elevators from the stab. Sand the tips and rib stubs
even with the elevators and stab.

❏ 2. Glue the elevator root blocks to the elevator.

Sand the fronts of the blocks even with the LE spars.
Cut the elevator leading edges from the 1/4" x 3/4"
x 30" [6.4 x 19.1 x 762mm] balsa stick, then glue
them to the elevators.

❏ 3. Shape the elevator LE’s and the root blocks

even with the elevators.

❏ 4. Cut the hinge slots. Shape elevator leading edges

to a “V” to achieve 5/8" [16mm] of control throw.

❏ 5. With the elevators temporarily joined to the stab

with the hinges, center the elevator joiner wire on

the elevators as shown on the plan. Use a ballpoint
pen to mark the location of the joiner wires on
the elevators.

❏ 6. Drill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole in both elevators for

the joiner wire.

❏ 7. Cut a groove in both elevators to accommodate

the joiner wire. Hint: Use a Great Planes

Groove

Tube

(GPMR8140) or a 1/8" [3.2mm] brass tube

sharpened on one end to cut the grooves.

❏ 8. Test fit the elevators to the stab with the joiner

wire. If necessary, bend the wire so the elevators
align with each other. Note: If you found it necessary
to bend the wire, note that it must be reinserted into
the elevators the same way when it’s time to glue it
in. If this is the case, file a small notch in the right
side of the joiner near the end.

❏ 9. Round the elevator root blocks.

-17-

BUILD THE WING

Make the wing skins

❏ 1. The same as the balsa sheets for the tail

surfaces were made, make five 6" x 24" [152 x
610mm] sheets, and four 9" x 24" [229 x 610mm]
sheets from 22 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 76 x 610mm]
balsa sheets.

❏ 2. After all the glue has dried, make two 12" x 24"

[305 x 610mm] sheets from four 6" x 24" [152 x
610mm] sheets (there will still be one 6" x 24" [152 x
610mm] sheet remaining).

Prepare the landing gear ribs

Retract options:

If building the Sea Fury with Robart #605 HD retracts
with 3/16" [4.8mm] wire struts, there are two options.
The “long-strut” option represents the correct scale
length of the landing gear struts. However, because of
poor ground handling over rough grass fields caused by
the unusually long length of the struts, the long-strut
option is recommended only if flying from smooth,
paved surfaces. If flying from grass fields, the “short­strut” option is recommended due to improved ground
handling. If installing any one of the Century Jet Models
retract options recommended, due to their design and
rigidity, the struts may be left at the scale length no
matter what surface you are flying from. Note: Most of
the instructions depict the installation of the Robart
gear, but apply to both the installation of Robart gear
and the CJM scale gear. Where necessary, separate
instructions and photos are provided for the installation
of the CJM scale gear.

❏ 1. Place the center section of the wing plan.

Follow the instructions to prepare the landing gear
ribs for the right side of the center section first.

Perform this step only if installing #32425 CJM
Top Flite Sea Fury system with scale struts.

❏❏R2. Use a hobby knife to cut out one set of die-

cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood rib doublers W4A-F and
W5A-F along the embossed lines as shown in the

sketch. Do not cut out the areas indicated by the
dashed lines, as these are for the fixed landing gear rail.

❏❏4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the rib doublers

to a die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa wing rib W4 and W5
as shown on the plan and in the photo. Note: If
installing Robart #605 retracts, glue die-cut 1/8"
[3.2mm] plywood rib doublers W4A-R and W5A-R
to the ribs. If this is your first time through, be certain
to make the ribs for the right side of the center
section by gluing the doublers to the correct side of
the ribs (the ribs shown in the photo are for the
right side).

❏❏F3. Use a hobby knife to cut out one set of die-

cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood rib doublers W4A-F and
W5A-F along the embossed lines as shown in the

sketch. Do not cut out the areas indicated by the
dashed lines, as these are for the retractable landing
gear rails.

W5A-F

W4A-F

FIXED LANDING GEAR OPTION

DO NOT CUT OUT

Perform this step only if installing fixed
landing gear.

Note: Steps preceded by an “F” are intended for
fixed landing gear only (and will also be shaded).

Steps preceded by an “R” are intended for
retracts only.

-18-

FIXED LANDING GEAR OPTION

W4A-F

DO NOT CUT OUT

5A-F

W

❏❏5. Cut out the balsa from the ribs within the

open area of the ply doublers to accommodate the
landing gear rails.

❏ 6. Repeat the procedure, but this time, make a set

of landing gear ribs for the left side of the center section
being certain to glue the doublers to the correct sides
of the ribs as indicated on the wing plan.

Frame the center section

❏ 1. If building flaps, use a straightedge and a

hobby knife to cut partway through one side of die­cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa wing ribs W3, W4, W5, W6,
W7 & W8 from the top of the notch to the tip as
shown. Later, the bottom of the ribs will be removed
to accommodate the flaps.

Refer to this photo for the following six steps.

❏ 2. Cut two 1/8" x 3/8" x 36" [3.2 x 9.5 x 914mm]

basswood sticks and two 3/16" x 3/8" x 24" [4.8 x 9.5
x 610mm] balsa sticks to a length of 23-13/16"
[604.8mm]. Make a top and bottom center main
spar by gluing a basswood stick to the balsa stick.
Save the leftover basswood for the outer panels.

❏ 3. Without using any glue until instructed to

do so, join ribs W1 through W5 to the die-cut 1/8"

[3.2mm] balsa center TE spar (CTES). Fit one of the
center main spars prepared earlier to the notches in
the bottom of the ribs. The balsa side of the center
main spar faces downward.

❏ 4. Join the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood forward

dowel plate (FDP) to ribs W1 & W2.

❏ 5. Position the assembly over the plan. Pin the

center TE spar and the ribs over their locations on
the plan. Hint: Instead of directly pinning the ribs and
center TE spar to the plan, an easier and more
secure method is to place 1/2" x 1/2" [13 x 13mm] (or
similar size) balsa sticks (indicated by the small
arrows in the photo) on both sides of the ribs and
center TE spar and pin the sticks to the plan.

❏ 6. Make

shims

from leftover balsa to support
bottom center main spar and push it up into the
notches in the ribs. Be certain the low-point on the
bottom of the ribs is contacting the plan. The exact
thickness of the shims may vary from kit to kit, but
the approximate thickness will be 1/8" [3.2mm].

❏ 7. Making certain the bottom of the ribs and the aft

TE are fully contacting the plan, and that the ribs are
pushed all the way down into the notches of the
center TE spar, glue the ribs to the center TE spar. Pull
the bottom center main spar tightly up into the notches
in the ribs; then, making sure the bottom of the ribs are
contacting the plan, glue the spar to the ribs.

❏ 8. Glue the top center main spar into position with

the balsa side up. Use a small square to make
certain the W5 ribs on both ends of the center
section are vertical.

-19-

❏ 9. Test fit, then glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa

wing center LE spar (CLES) to the assembly. Be
certain the center LE spar is centered vertically on all
the ribs.

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

❏ 10. Glue both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood aft

dowel plates (ADR) to the top and bottom spars

between ribs W1 and W2.

❏ 11. Of the 3/32" x 3" x 36" [2.4 x 76 x 914mm]

balsa sheets included with this kit, one of them is
hard and the rest are soft. Locate the hard balsa
sheet. Cut the ten shear webs for the center section
from the sheet, then glue them into position. Save
the remainder of this sheet for the shear webs for the
outer panels.

❏ 12. Use epoxy to glue four die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

plywood inner webs (IW) to both the front and back
of the main spars on both ends of the center section.
Be certain to use enough epoxy for a secure bond,
but don’t use too much epoxy so as to interfere with
the fit of the wing joiners that will be added later.

❏ 13. Sand the top center main spar, the center LE

spar and the webs even with the top of the ribs.

❏ 14. Glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa center

TE (WCTE) to a 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 76 x 610mm]

balsa sheet. From now on this will be referred to as
the top TE sheet.

❏ 15. Remove or relocate any T-pins that may

become concealed after the top sheeting is glued
into position. If using weights to hold the sheeting
down, all the T-pins may be removed.

❏ 16. Sand the top TE sheet flat and even.Test fit and

trim the sheet to fit the top of the wing against the

center TE making sure it aligns with the TE indicated
on the plan. Glue the top TE sheet into position.

❏ 17. Glue one of the 3/32" x 12" x 24" [2.4 x 305 x

610mm] balsa sheets prepared earlier to the top of
the center section. The suggested method is to apply
aliphatic resin to the top of all the ribs and spars and
to the aft edge of the sheet where it contacts the
center TE spar. Position the sheet and use weights to
hold it down. Use medium CA to glue the front of the
sheet to the top of the center LE spar. Allow the
aliphatic resin to dry before proceeding.

❏ 18. Remove the center section from the building

board. Note: Do not trim the bottom of the center TE
spar from the bottom of the wing until instructed to
do so.The center TE spar supports the section when
joining the outer panels.

If building the wing with fixed landing gear,
proceed to “Mount the fixed landing gear” on
page 22.

The Sea Fury uses a Bristol Centaurus 18 cylinder,
twin row, radial, air-cooled, supercharged engine.
Max. power is 2,300 H.P. in full supercharger mode
at maximum engine power altitude.
Engine oil tank capacity is 14 gallons with oil cooler.
Exhaust pipe configuration in sliding grill provides
thrust augmentation.

-20-

Mount the retracts

❏❏

R1. Cut two 3-5/8" [92mm] long retract rails

from the 3/8" x 1/2" x 24" [9.5 x 12.7 x 610mm]

maple stick (if installing the scale CJM retracts, cut
three rails and glue two of them together to make a
3/4" x 1/2" x 3-5/8" [19.1 x 12.7 x 92mm] aft rail).

❏❏R2. Test fit the rails into the openings in the ribs

on the right side of the center section. If necessary,
bevel the openings to accommodate the rails. Test fit
one of the retracts between the rails to make certain
it fits. Make adjustments if necessary.

❏❏R3. Securely glue the retract rails into position

with 30-minute epoxy. For additional strength, add
Great Planes Pro Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165). Hint:
The outer ends of the rails are to be sanded at an angle
flush with the end of the center section. It may be easier
to do this before gluing the rails into position.

❏❏R4. If installing Robart gear, file a flat spot on

the end of the wire strut near the top for the set
screw in the retract unit to lock onto. Mount the strut
into the retract units and tighten the set screw.

❏❏R5. Position the retract unit between the rails.

Mark the locations for the holes for the mounting
screws. Drill appropriate size holes in the rails for the
screws. If using #6 screws, drill 7/64" [2.8mm] holes.

Use a rotary tool with a sanding drum to trim the aft
rail to accommodate the coil in the strut.

Perform steps 6 & 7 only if installing the Robart gear.

❏❏R6. Cut the right landing gear strut to the correct

length. (For the long-strut option, the scale distance
from the wheel axle to the pivot point is 8" [203mm]. For
the “short-strut” option, the distance from the wheel axle
to the pivot point is 6" [152mm].)

❏❏R7. File a flat spot on the end of the strut for

the set screw in the axle (not included, GPMQ4278).
The flat spots must be positioned so the axles will be
parallel with the main spars (as shown in the photo)
when the set screw in the axle is tightened.

Perform this step only if installing CJM scale
retracts.

❏❏R8. Position the landing gear strut in the landing

gear cam (the cast aluminum part of the gear that
pivots to extend and retract the gear) so the axle is
parallel with the bottom main spar (though the photo in
the preceding step is of the Robart gear, the same idea
is illustrated). Tighten the set screw in the cam to lock
the strut in this position. Note: Before the gear doors
are mounted to the struts in step R10 on page 25, the
struts must be permanently glued into the cams with
JB Weld (epoxy specially formulated for bonding metal).

-21-