Top Flite A0145 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This

warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased
kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material
used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.
By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the

use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models P.O. Box 788 Urbana, Il 61803 Technical Assistance Call [phone] www.top-flite.com

P396P03 V1.1

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Entire Contents © Copyright 1999

MADE IN

™

Wingspan

63” [1600mm]

Wing Area

742.8 sq in [47.9sq. dm.]

Weight

8 - 10 lbs
[3629 - 4536 grams ]

Wing Loading

24.8 - 31.0 oz./sq.ft.
[76 - 95 g/sq. dm.]

Fuselage Length

55.25” [1403.5mm]

USA

TABLE OF CONTENTS

AND BUILDING SEQUENCE

INTRODUCTION..................................................3

PRECAUTIONS ...................................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ..........................3

Engine selection .............................................3

Retractable landing gear................................3

Flaps...............................................................4

Propellers.......................................................4

COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS................4

DOCUMENTATION..............................................4

POWER................................................................4

FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS.............................4

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED.................................5

BUILDING SUPPLIES.........................................5

Glue & Filler ...................................................5

Tools...............................................................5

DIE-CUT PATTERNS......................................6&7

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ........................8

GET READY TO BUILD......................................8

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES.............................9

Make the stab skins.......................................9

Build the stabilizer........................................10

Build the elevators ........................................11

Build the fin and rudder................................13

BUILD THE FUSELAGE ...................................15

Frame the fuselage top................................15

Mount the stab and fin .................................17

Sheet the top of the fuselage .......................18

Build the bottom of the fuselage..................20

Install the pushrods......................................21

Install the engine..........................................23

Retract installation (nose gear)....................24

BUILD THE WING .............................................25

Build the wing panels...................................26

Retract installation (main gears)..................28

Sheet the bottom of the wing.......................29

Installing the aileron servos ........................29

Joining the wing halves ................................30

Install the ailerons........................................31

Build the flaps...............................................31

Sheet the top of the wing.............................33

Fit the wing to the fuselage ..........................35

FINISH THE LOWER FUSELAGE....................36

Nose Gear Steering
Pull-pull system installation (Retracts only)...36

Canopy installation .......................................38

Cowling installation ......................................38

Mount the receiver and battery....................39

FINISHING .........................................................39

Prepare the model for covering....................39

Balance the airplane laterally .......................40

Cover your model with MonoKote®..............40

Covering sequence......................................41

Painting ........................................................41

Join the control surfaces..............................41

FINISHING TOUCHES.......................................42

Decals ..........................................................42

Panel lines....................................................42

GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY...............42

Balance your model .....................................42

Final hookups and checks ...........................43

Control surface throws.................................43

PREFLIGHT.......................................................43

Identify your model.......................................43

Charge your batteries...................................43

Balance your propeller.................................43

Ground check your model ............................44

Range check your radio...............................44

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS...................44

AMA SAFETY CODE ........................................44

FLYING...............................................................45

Takeoff..........................................................45

Flight.............................................................45

Landing.........................................................45

Two-View Drawing.........................Back Cover

Your P-39 Airacobra is not a toy, but a sophisticated
working model that functions very much like an
actual airplane. Because of its realistic performance,
if you do not assemble and operate your P-39
Airacobra correctly, you could possibly injure
yourself or spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and your first
flights from an experienced, knowledgeable modeler.
You'll learn faster and avoid risking your model before
you're truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500
chartered clubs across the country. We recommend
you join the AMA which will insure you at AMA club
sites and events. AMA Membership is required at
chartered club fields where qualified flight instructors
are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

[phone]

Fax [phone]

or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

Your Top Flite Gold Edition P-39 Airacobra is intended
for scale and general sport flying including mild
aerobatics such as loops, stall turns, rolls, etc. Its
structure is designed to withstand such stresses. If you
intend to use your Airacobra for more abusive types of
flying such as racing or aggressive aerobatics it is your
responsibility to reinforce areas of the model that will be
subjected to the resulting unusually high stresses.

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTION

2

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the
Top Flite Gold Edition P-39 Airacobra. We are sure
you are eager to build and fly your P-39 Airacobra
just as we were eager to build and fly our prototypes.

The nice thing about the Gold Edition P-39 Airacobra is
that although it is a highly detailed scale model with all
the goodies, such as a realistic looking scale outline,
built up tail surfaces, retracts and flaps, it is one of the
few military aircraft that had a tricycle gear
configuration. Those of you who have not yet mastered
airplanes that are tail draggers, will appreciate this
model's great ground handling characteristics.

One last note before you continue: we highly
recommend you get some pictures or a book about
P-39 Airacobras or send for your documentation
package as soon as possible. This way you can
study the drawings and photos to get a feel for how
your P-39 Airacobra should look when you're done.
This will also help you figure out what scale details to
add and decide on a trim scheme.

Well, this should be enough to get your juices
flowing, so get your other projects off your
workbench, say goodbye to your significant other for
a while and...keep reading!

Please inspect all parts carefully before you start
to build! If any parts are missing, broken or
defective, or if you have any questions about
building or flying this model, please call us at
[phone] or e-mail us at www.top-flite.com
and we'll be glad to help. If you are calling for
replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and the kit identification number
(stamped on the end of the carton) and have
them ready when you call.

PRECAUTIONS

1.You must build the plane according to the plan and
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.

In a few cases the plan and instructions may differ
slightly from the photos. In those instances you
should assume the plan and written instructions
are correct.

2.You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first
class condition, the correct sized engine and correct
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout your
building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly on
the ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model
before every flight to insure that all equipment is
operating and you must make certain that the model
has remained structurally sound.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,
you must fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced R/C pilot.

Remember: Take your time and follow instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

ENGINE SELECTION

Recommended engine size:

.61 to .75 cu. in. [10cc to 13cc] 2-stroke
.70 to .91 cu. in. [12cc to 16cc] 4-stroke

Your Top Flite Gold Edition P-39 Airacobra will
perform well with any of the engines within the
recommended range. We flew our prototype with
the O.S.®61FX and had more than ample power.
With a larger engine you will most likely find
yourself throttling back to achieve scale-like
speeds for level flight but will have plenty of extra
power to vertically climb away from the pursuing
enemy aircraft.

RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR

You may build your P-39 Airacobra either with
fixed or retractable landing gear. All the hardware
you need for fixed gear is supplied with this kit. We
do, however, provide detailed instructions on how
to install retractable landing gear available from
Robart. They are pneumatic to simplify installation
and hookup. You may choose to use another type
of retract but it is up to you to make modifications
required to fit them. For Retractable Landing Gear
you will need these items:

❏ 85 degree Main gear #606HD (ROBQ0006)
❏ 105 degree Nose gear #TFP39 (ROBQ1660)
❏Robart #188VR Variable rate air control kit

(ROBQ2302)

❏ Extra air tubing (ROBQ2363)
❏ Robart #164G Hand pump w/gauge (ROBQ2388)
❏ Quick disconnects (ROBQ2395)
❏ (4) #4 Flat washers (GPMQ3402)
❏ Pull-Pull kit (SULQ3121)
❏ Main gear strut covers (ROBQ2703)
❏ Standard servo to operate air control valve
❏ (4) 3/16" [4.8mm] Wheel collars (GPMQ4308)
❏ (2) 3/16" [4.8mm] Adjustable axle (GPMQ4282)

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a
top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.

3

COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS

We designed our P-39 Airacobra from scale three­view drawings supplied by Scale Model Research
(address follows) and photos taken of various P-39
Airacobras. The scale of your Gold Edition P-39
Airacobra is 1 to 6.5.

If you plan to enter your P-39 Airacobra in scale
competition, this kit qualifies for Fun Scale and the

Sportsman and Expert classes in Sport Scale. Fun
Scale and Sport Scale have the same flight
requirements where you must perform ten maneuvers,
five of which are mandatory. The other five are up to
you–easy stuff like cycling your landing gear, a slow,
low "inspection pass" with flaps extended, or maybe a
touch-and-go. If you have never competed in a scale
contest, you could start out in Fun Scale. In Fun Scale,
the only documentation you need for static judging is
any proof that a full size aircraft of this type, in the
paint/markings scheme on your model, did exist. A
single photo, a kit box cover, even a painting is
sufficient proof! If you're interested, contact the AMA
for a rule book which will tell you everything you need
to know. Look in the back of the AMA magazine (Model
Aviation) for a schedule of events.

If you are not concerned with a scale trim scheme you
can make a variation of the one on the box, or design
your own. If you are going to compete in scale
competition use the photos in your documentation
package as a guide for your trim scheme.

DOCUMENTATION

Three view drawings and photo packs of full size
P-39 Airacobras are available from:

Scale Model Research

3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

[phone]

Fax: [phone]

SCALE ACCURACY

The Top Flite P-39 Airacobra is a faithful reproduction
of the full size aircraft, with a few exceptions:

1. The size of the horizontal stab / elevators has been
increased by about 10% to improve pitch stability.

2. The size of the vertical fin / rudder has been
increased by about 10% to improve yaw stability.

3. The position of the retractable landing gear has
been moved 1/2" [13mm] aft to allow a scale 4"
[100mm] wheel to clear the wing spar.

POWER

With the .61 2-stroke engine the model will fly very well.
The .61 will provide more power than the model needs
for a scale speed, but you will appreciate the extra
power when vertical maneuvers are being performed.

FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS

During our flight testing we found no bad
characteristics in this airplane. Take-offs were
straightforward with good ground handling. The plane
was airborne in approximately 100' [30m]. Once the
plane is flying it goes exactly where you point it. Rolls
are very scale-like with the low rate settings. At high
rate it can roll more like an aerobatic sport plane.
Power-off stalls were very soft and predictable with
only the nose dropping in the stall. There was no
tendency for the plane to tip stall. Landings were
straightforward with or without the flaps. Without flaps
you should maintain a bit more airspeed on your
approach. With full flap deployment the plane slows
very nicely and allows for a very soft landing. Unlike
some models, the P-39 Airacobra does not exhibit
any pronounced ballooning when flaps are deployed.
A full flap landing will generally require a little steeper
approach than an approach without flaps. Try setting
up your approach from a slightly higher altitude than
you might typically use for a landing without flaps.
Deploy full flaps and gradually decrease the power.
Keep the nose down and maintain a consistent
approach to the beginning of the runway. When you
are over the runway threshold pull off all power and
the plane will settle in nicely to final touchdown. If you

have never flown with flaps this is an excellent
model to learn with. The extra effort to construct the

P-39 Airacobra with flaps is well worth the effort when
the model is completed.

Flaps

Your P-39 Airacobra is designed to incorporate
scale split flaps; however, flaps are optional and
not necessary for an excellent flying experience.
Without flaps, the takeoff roll is a bit longer and the
landing speed is slightly faster. If you do not wish
to build the flaps, just disregard parts of the
manual involving flap construction.

The flaps are not difficult to build, but they do
require good craftsmanship to fit and operate well.
Flaps add nicely to the model's flight characteristics
and scale appearance. Trim changes were not
needed for our prototype when flaps were
extended. The only exception was when they were
deployed when flying at full power. The trim
corrections are discussed later in the manual during
radio set up and you will find more information on
the use of the flaps in the flying section.

For flaps you will need one additional standard servo.

PROPELLERS

We did our test flying using Top Flite® Power Point

™

Propellers and an OS .61FX engine. Initial test
flights were with the 12x6 and 12x8. As with any
model, you may experiment with different propellers
to find out what type and pitch works best for you.

4

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

These are additional items you will need to complete
your P-39 Airacobra that are not included with your
kit. Order numbers are in parentheses (GPMQ4130).
Our exclusive brand is listed where possible: TOP is
the Top Flite®brand, GPM is the Great Planes

®

brand, and HCA is the Hobbico®brand.

❏ 4 to 6 Channel radio with 5 to 7 servos
❏ Engine

O.S. Engines Prop

.61 FX 2-stroke 12 x 6, 13 x 6
FS .70 Surpass 4-stroke 13 x 8

Super Tigre

®

Prop

G-75 2-stroke 12 x 8, 13 x 8
G-90 2 stroke 14 x 6, 15 x 6-10

❏ Propellers appropriate for your engine
❏ (1) Muffler extension (engine to muffler)

(for .61FX OSMG2582)

❏ (2) 4" [100mm] Main wheels (ROBQ1518)
❏ (1) 2-1/2" [64mm] Nose wheel (ROBQ1512)
❏ (2) 3/16" [4.8mm] Wheel collars (GPMQ4309)
❏ (4) 5/32" [4mm] Wheel collars (GPMQ4306)
❏ (1) 12 oz. [360cc] Fuel tank (GPMQ4105)
❏ (1) Y-connector for Aileron servos
❏ (2) 6" [152mm] Servo extensions (1-aileron, 1-flap)
❏ (1) 24" [610mm] Servo extension for battery
❏ Approximately 12" [300mm] Medium silicone fuel

tubing (GPMQ4131)

❏ (1) Fuel filler valve (GPMQ4160)
❏ (1) 3-1/2" [89mm] Spinner (CBAQ5430)
❏1/2" [13mm] (HCAQ1050) or 1/4" [6mm] (HCAQ1000)

R/C Foam rubber padding

❏ (3) rolls of Top Flite Super MonoKote®covering
❏ (1) 1/7 Scale pilot figure (TOPQ9000)
❏ (1) Fuel drop tank (TOPQ7900)

BUILDING SUPPLIES

Here's a checklist of supplies you should have on
hand while you're building. Some of these are
optional. Use your own experience to decide what
you need. We recommend Great Planes Pro™CA
and Epoxy.

GLUE/FILLER

❏ 4 oz. [120g] Thin CA (GPMR6004)
❏ 2 oz. [60g] Medium CA (GPMR6009)
❏ 2 oz. [60g] Thick CA (GPMR6015)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ CA Debonder (GMPR6039)
❏ CA Applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ 30-minute (GPMR6047)

or

❏ 45-minute (GPMR6048) Epoxy
❏ 6-minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 4 oz. [120g] Pro wood glue (GPMR6161)
❏ Lightweight hobby filler (balsa color, HCAR3401)

TOOLS

❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 qty.)
❏ Single edge razor blades (HCAR0312, 100 qty.)
❏ Razor plane (MASR1510)
❏ Hobbico builder's triangle (HCAR0480)
❏ T-Pins (HCAR5100 (S), HCAR5150 (M), HCAR5200 (L)
❏ Drill bits:

1/16" [1.6mm] 3/32" [2.4mm] (or #41)

9/64" [3.6mm] (or 1/8") 5/32" [4.0mm]

1/4" [6.4mm] 3/16" [4.8mm] (or #10)

❏ 1/4-20 Tap and drill (GPMR8105)
❏ 6-32 Tap and drill (GPMR8102)
❏ 8-32 Tap and drill (GPMR8103)
❏ Tap wrench (GPMR8120)
❏ Curved tip scissors (HCAR0667)
❏ Great Planes plan protector (GPMR6167) or

wax paper

❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❏ Easy-Touch™bar sanders
❏ Dremel®#178 cutting bit for countersinking

screws in the servo hatch covers (DRER1178)

RECOMMENDED COVERING

TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES

❏ Top Flite Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Top Flite Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)

-and-

❏ Top Flite Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Top Flite Hot Sock™(TOPR2175)

-or-

❏ 21st Century®Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
❏ 21st Century Cover Sock (COVR2702)

EASY-TOUCH™BAR SANDER

A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a
necessity for building a well finished model. Great
Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar

Sanders (patented) and replaceable Easy-Touch
Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. While building the P-

39 we used two 5-1/2" [140mm] Bar Sanders and
two 11" [280mm] Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit
and 150-grit Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. Here's
the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and
Adhesive Backed Sandpaper.

5-1/2" [140mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6169)

11" [280mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" [560mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" [840mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" [1120mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6176)

11" [280mm] Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

(continued on page 8)

5

6

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

7

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

(continued from page 5)

12' [300mm] roll of Adhesive-backed sandpaper:

80-grit (GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
180-grit (GPMR6184)
220-grit (GPMR6185)

Assortment pack of 5-1/2" [140mm] strips (GPMR6189)
We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets)

and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry
sandpaper for finish sanding.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number
and a length.

For example #6 x 3/4" [19.1mm]

Machine screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4" [19.1mm]

When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it
means that you should first position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, then slightly
modify or custom fit the part as necessary for the
best fit.

Whenever the term glue is used you should rely
upon your experience to decide what type of glue to
use. When a specific type of adhesive works best for
that step we will tell you what type of glue to use.

Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either
30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute
epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you
use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

Occasionally we refer to the top or bottom of the
model or up or down. To avoid confusion, the top or
bottom of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right side up and will be referred to as the
top even if the model is upside down during that
step, i.e. the top main spar is always the top main
spar even if the wing is upside down when you are
working on it. Similarly, move the former up means
move the former toward the top of the fuselage even
if the fuselage is upside down when you are working
on it.

When you get to each step, read that step completely
through to the end before you begin. Frequently
there is important information or a note at the end of
the step that you need to know before you start.

Photos and sketches are placed ahead of the step
they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in
following steps to get another view of the same parts.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

Deg = degrees Elev = elevator

Fuse = fuselage " = inches

LE = leading edge Ply = plywood

Stab = stabilizer TE = trailing edge

LG = landing gear mm = millimeters

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

Metric Conversion Chart

1” = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

Note: An inch/mm scale is provided on the

fuselage plan.

GET READY TO BUILD

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Roll them inside out so
they lie flat.

2. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a ballpoint
pen (not a felt tip pen) to lightly write the name or size
on each piece so you can identify it later. Use the
die-cut patterns on pages 6 and 7, to identify and mark
the die-cut parts before you remove them from their die
sheets. Many of the parts already have numbers
stamped on them, but in some cases the number is
located alongside the parts or only on the die drawings.
You may remove all the die-cut parts from their die
sheets now or wait until you need them. If a part is
difficult to remove, don't force it out but cut around it with
a #11 blade. After you remove the parts from their die
sheets, lightly sand the edges to remove slivers or die­cutting irregularities. Save some of the larger leftover
pieces of wood.

3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin,
wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top
food storage bags.

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm
3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

8

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

MAKE THE STAB SKINS

❏ 1. Use the Hot Tip that follows or your own method
to glue two 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa
sheets together to make a 1/16" x 6" x 30" [1.6 x 152
x 762mm] sheet for one of the stab skins.

F. Place weights on top of the sheets to hold them
down. We prefer plastic bags filled with lead shot, but
anything similar will do the job.

G. After the glue dries, remove the weights and
masking tape. Sand the sheet flat with your bar sander
and 150-grit sandpaper. The idea is to sand the
sheeting before you glue it to the structure. This
eliminates low spots that can occur over the ribs from
excessive sanding.

This is the same procedure we recommend when it is
time to make the wing and fuse skins.

E. Inspect the seam and press the sheets together
where they do not align.

D. Use a credit card or something similar to
simultaneously press the sheets flat as you squeegee
the excess glue from the seam. Wipe the glue off your
squeegee so it’s ready for the next time. Immediately
proceed to the next step.

C. Place a sheet of Plan Protector or wax paper on
your workbench. Turn the taped together sheets over
and apply aliphatic resin (wood workers glue such as
Great Planes Pro) to the seams.

B. Tightly tape the trued edges of the sheets together
with masking tape.

A. Use a straightedge and a sharp #11 blade to true
one edge of both sheets. Do not cut all the way
through the first time but make several passes with
your knife to prevent the wood from splitting.

HOW TO MAKE THE STAB SKINS

Top Flite selects balsa that is intended for
sheeting, though occasionally a few of these
sheets may have a small nick or split near the
ends. If your kit contains a few of these sheets,
arrange them and glue them together so the
defects will not interfere with the final shape of
the skin.

9

❏ 2. Place one of the balsa skins over the stab plan
and cut the sheeting as shown in the sketch below.
Be sure to cut the balsa skins slightly larger than the
plan to allow for positioning.

❏ 3. Use a small piece of the excess that you cut off
to fill in the small area at the front of the stab skin.

❏ 4. Cut a second skin to the same size and shape.

Build the stabilizer

❏ 1. Cut the stab plan along the dashed line and
tape it to your building board. Cover the stab plan
with Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa stab TE
spar to the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa stab TE.

These pieces are symmetrical so it does not matter
how you join them.

❏ 3. Insert all the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa stab
ribs except for rib S1 into the TE spar and place the

assembly over the plan.

❏ 4. Make sure all the ribs are fully seated into the
TE spar and that the jig tabs are contacting the
building board. Use a square to make sure the TE is
perpendicular to your building board. Glue the ribs
to the TE with thin CA.

❏ 5. Sand a bevel on the front of the ribs to
accommodate the aft sweep of the LE. Cut the 5/16”
x 15” [7.9 x 381] tapered balsa leading edge at the
angles shown on the plan. When you are satisfied
with the fit, glue the leading edge to the front of the
ribs. Be sure that the top of the tapered balsa leading
edge is flush with the top of the ribs.

❏ 6. Fit the Stab LE Brace into the slot in rib S1. Test
fit S1 and the stab brace as shown on the plan.
When you are satisfied with the fit, glue S1 and the
stab LE brace into position.

❏ 7. Glue the stab tips to the stab where shown on
the plan. Make sure the tips are centered (vertically)
on tip ribs S6 and the trailing edge.

❏ 8. Relocate any T-pins that are protruding above
the structure so they will not be in the way when you
sand the stab tip and the leading and trailing edges.
Use a bar sander and 80-grit sandpaper to bevel the
top of the stab tips to accommodate the sheeting.
Shape the top of the TE and LE to blend with the
stab tips and the ribs. We've marked the centerline of
the stab tip and highlighted the top of it so you can
see how the stab tip is tapered.

10

❏ 9. Before you sheet the top of the stab, refer to the
photo at step 10. Use a ballpoint pen and a square
to mark the center of the stab and the root end of
both elevators on the TE of the stab. The marks will
help you align the stab with the fuse and align the
elevators with the stab later on.

❏ 10. Sheet the top of the stab with one of the stab
skins you've already prepared. We recommend

using aliphatic resin to glue the skin to the ribs and
CA to glue the skin to the TE, LE and tips. Wet the
outside of the sheeting in the middle near the leading
edge. This will make the skin flexible enough to glue
to the structure. Apply aliphatic resin to the ribs and
position the top skin on the stab. Place your weights
on top of the stab skin, then use CA to glue the skin
to the LE, TE and tips. Leave the weights in position
until the aliphatic resin dries. Thirty minutes to an
hour is enough time.

❏ 11. Remove the stab from your building board. T urn
the stab over and cut the jig tabs from the bottom of
the ribs, then trim the bottom of the LE even with the
ribs. Trim the stab tips and the bottom of the TE near
the tips the same way you did on the top.

❏ 12. Cut the stab hinge blocks from one of the
1/4" x 3/4" x 30" [6.4 x 19.1 x 762mm] balsa sticks.
Glue the hinge blocks to the TE, ribs, and top
sheeting where shown on the plan. Trim the hinge
blocks even with the TE and ribs.

❏ 13. Sheet the bottom of the stab with the other
stab skin you prepared. Use care not to add any twist
to the stab as it is no longer supported by the jig tabs.
Once again, we suggest using aliphatic resin to glue
the skin to the ribs and medium CA for the rest.

Build the elevators

❏❏1. Mark the location of the elevator ribs on both
sides of one of the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa
elevator core where shown on the plan. This is easy.
Simply lay the die-cut core on the plan and draw a line
from the "tick" marks at the leading and trailing edge
of the elevator core. This will give you the positioning
for the ribs. When you have completed one side
transfer the lines to the other side.

When we glue sheeting to a structure (wing, stab,
fin), we use plastic bags filled with lead shot to
hold the sheeting down. These plastic bags filled
with lead take the shape of the curved surfaces to
apply uniform pressure and do not put marks in
the balsa wood. You can purchase lead shot at
most stores where hunting supplies are sold. We
use #6 lead shot. One 25 lb. [1.134kg] bag costs
approximately fifteen to twenty dollars. You may
use small zip lock food storage bags to hold the
shot. Tape the bags shut to make sure they don't
open. Each bag should hold between 2-3 lbs.
[907-1361g.] of lead. Ten to fifteen 2-3 lbs. [907­1361g.] bags should be enough for most projects.

WEIGHT BAGS

11

❏❏2. Cut a 1/4" x 3/4" x 30" [6.4 x 19.1 x 762mm]
balsa stick to the length shown on the plan for the
elevator leading edge. Use a straightedge to draw
a center line the length of the elevator leading edge.
Glue the elevator core to the LE directly on top of the
line so that the core will be centered on the LE. Use
a square to make sure you glue the LE perpendicular
to the elevator core.
Hint: Place a 1/4" [6.4mm] piece of balsa under the
square to raise it to the level of the LE.

❏ ❏ 3. Make the elevator hinge blocks from a 1/4"
x 5/16" x 24" [6.4 x 7.9 x 610mm] balsa stick. Glue
the hinge blocks to the elevator as shown on the plan
(Do this for the top and bottom of the elevator core).
See photo at step 5.

❏❏4. Make the elevator torque rod blocks from
1/4" x 5/16" x 24" [6.4 x 7.9 x 610mm] balsa. Glue the
blocks to the elevator as shown on the plan. (Do this
for the top and bottom of the elevator core.) See
photo at step 5.

❏❏5. Use four 1/16" x 5/16" x 24" [6.4 x 7.9 x
610mm] balsa sticks to make the elevator ribs. Cut
the sticks to the correct length, then glue them to the
elevator core and the leading edge of the elevator.

❏❏6. Use a piece of leftover 1/16" [1.6mm]
sheeting to make the elevator root cap. Glue the
root cap into position.

❏❏7. Place the elevator on the stab TE and shape
the elevator LE to match the shape of the stab TE.

❏❏8. Proceed slowly and carefully, shaping the
elevator ribs and the hinge blocks to match the
elevator LE and the cross section on the plan.

❏❏9. Insert two T-pins through the center of one of
the elevator LE, near the tip and near the root. Place
a straightedge across the T-pins and draw the
centerline on the elevator LE with a ballpoint pen.
Draw a centerline along the TE of the stab the
same way.

❏ 10. Carefully cut away the center section of the
elevator leading edge so the elevators match the
shape as shown on the plan. Note which elevator
matches which side of the stab.

❏❏11. Mark the location of the hinge slots on the
elevator and stab where shown on the plan. With a
#11 blade, cut the hinge slots in the elevator and the
stab along the centerlines you marked earlier.

IMPORTANT NOTES ABOUT CA HINGES

This kit is supplied with a CA hinge material
consisting of a 3-layer lamination of Mylar and
polyester. It is specially made for hinging model
airplane control surfaces. When properly
installed, this type of CA hinge provides the best
combination of strength, durability and easy
installation. We trust all of our Gold Edition war
birds to these hinges, but it is essential to install
them correctly. Carefully follow the hinging
instructions in this manual for the best result.

The most common mistake made by modelers
when installing CA hinges is making the hinge
slots too tight restricting the flow of CA to the back
of the hinges; or not using enough glue to fully
secure the hinge over its entire surface area. This
results in hinges that are only tack glued into the
hinge slots. The techniques for cutting the hinge
slots and gluing in CA hinges (near the end of the
manual) have been developed to ensure thorough
and secure gluing.

12

CUT HINGE SLOT

WITH HOBBY KNIFE

AND #11 BLADE

❏ 12. Using the sketch above, cut six hinges from
the CA hinge strip supplied with this kit. Snip the
corners off so they go into the slots easier. You may
cut all the hinges now, or cut them as you need them.

❏❏13. Test fit the hinges into the slots. If the hinges
do not slide into the slots easily, work your knife
blade back and forth in the slot a few times to provide
more clearance (it is really the back edge of the
blade that does the work here in widening the slot).

❏❏14. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole, 1/2" [12.7mm]
deep in the center of the hinge slots. Use a rotary
tool with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill bit or a carbide cutter
for the best results. Reinsert your knife blade to
clean out the slot after you drill the holes.

❏❏15. Test fit the elevator to the stab with the
hinges. If any hinge slots are not wide enough or are
misaligned, make adjustments so the elevators
accurately fit the stab.

Return to Step 1 and build the other elevator.

❏ 16. Determine which side of the stab looks the
best. Designate that side as the top. Use a file or a
rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to remove sharp
edges or burrs on the ends of the elevator joiner
wire. Place the horizontal Stab and elevators over
the plan and position the elevator joiner wire on the
top of the elevators in the location shown. Mark the
leading edge of the elevators where the arm portion
of the joiner wire will enter as shown on the plan.

❏ 17. Drill a 9/64" (or 1/8") [3.6mm] hole at the marks
you made on the centerline of both elevator leading
edges for the joiner wire. Cut a groove in the
leading edge of both elevators to accommodate the
joiner wire.
Hint: Use a 5/32" [4mm] brass tube sharpened at
one end to cut the grooves.

❏ 18. Bevel the leading edges of the elevators to a
"V" as shown in the cross section on the plan. Use
the centerline on the elevator leading edges as a
guide. Test fit the elevators to the stab with the joiner
wire and the hinges. Note that the horn on the joiner
wire points downward. Cut a small notch in the TE of
the stab for the horn on the joiner wire. If necessary,
remove the joiner and tweak it so both elevators are
in the same plane.

❏ 19. Once more, test fit the elevators to the stab
with the hinges and the joiner wire. Make sure you
can obtain the control throws indicated on page 43 of
the manual. If you cannot, increase the "V" on the
leading edge of the elevators.

Set the stab and elevators aside.

Build the fin and rudder

❏ 1. Tape the fuse plan to your building board. Cover
the fin and rudder portion of the plan with Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Pin balsa fin ribs V1 through V5 to the plan
using T-pins as shown in the photograph. Check that
the fin ribs are perpendicular to the building board
using a triangle or square.

❏ 3. Carefully bevel the front of the ribs to
accommodate the sweep of the tapered LE stick.

❏ 4. Cut the balsa leading edge from a 5/16" x 15"
[7.9 x 381mm] tapered balsa leading edge. Cut it to
the length shown on the plan.

❏ 5. Pin the balsa leading edge stick and the die-cut
1/8” balsa fin TE spar to the plan in the same manner
as the ribs in step 2. Be sure to align the top of the fin
LE with the tops of the ribs, allowing the excess to
protrude below the ribs (to be trimmed later). Do the
same with the fin TE spar. Once you are satisfied with
the fit, glue the ribs to the LE and TE.

13

DRILL A 3/32" HOLE

1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER

OF HINGE SLOT

❏ 6. Glue the die-cut 1/8” balsa fin TE to the fin
TE spar.

❏ 7. Glue the die-cut 1/8 balsa fin tip between the TE
spar and the top of V5. Be sure that the tip is centered
on the LE and TE as shown in the photograph.

❏ 8. Cut three balsa hinge blocks from the 1/4" x
5/16" x 24" [6.4 x 7.9 x 610mm] balsa stick and glue
in place as shown on the plan.

❏ 9. Rearrange any T-pins that protrude above the
structure so they will not interfere with your bar
sander. Lightly sand the top of the LE and TE to
match the airfoil shape of the ribs to accommodate
the fin skin.

❏❏10. Cut a 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6mm x 76 x 762mm]
balsa sheet into two 8-1/2" [215.5mm] long pieces
and one 4-1/2” [114mm] long piece. Edge glue the
three sheets together in the same way the stab
sheeting was done. This will become one of the fin
skins. Use the Fin Skin Pattern on the plan to make
one fin skin.

❏ 11. Repeat step 10 to make a second fin skin.
❏ 12. Remove the T-pins from the fin assembly and

glue one of the fin skins in position. Align the rear of
the skin with the TE of the fin and the bottom of the
skin with V1.

❏ 13. Remove the fin from the building board.
Remove the jig tabs from the other side of the fin and
lightly sand the fin ribs, LE and TE to shape.

❏ 14. Glue the second fin skin in position on the fin.
Take care not to twist the fin when gluing the fin skin
in place.

❏ 15. At this point set the fin aside and proceed with
the assembly of the rudder.

❏16. Glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa front and rear
rudder core pieces together to form the rudder core.

❏ 17. Mark the location of the rudder ribs on both
sides of the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa rudder core
where shown on the plan. Use the same procedure
as in step 1 of building the elevator.

❏ 18. Cut a 1/4" x 1/2" x 24" [6.4 x 12.7 x 610mm]
balsa stick to the length shown on the plan to make
the rudder leading edge.

❏ 19. Draw a centerline on the LE material and glue
the rudder core on to the center line.

❏❏20. Cut four balsa hinge blocks from a 1/4" x
5/16" x 24" [6.4 x 7.9 x 610mm] balsa stick and fit
them to the LE of the rudder as shown on the plan.
Glue them in place on the left side of the rudder as
shown in the photo at Step 22.

❏❏21. Use a 1/16" x 5/16" x 24" [1.6 x 7.9 x
610mm] balsa stick to make the rudder ribs. Cut the
sticks to the correct length, then glue them to the
rudder cores and the leading edge of the rudder.

❏❏22. Glue a leftover piece of balsa to the bottom
of the rudder to help in shaping the rudder for
covering. The photo above shows one side of the

rudder with the ribs, hinge blocks and leftover balsa
in place and shaped.

Repeat steps 20-22 for the right side of the rudder.

❏ 23. Draw a centerline on the LE of the rudder.
Mark the location of the hinges. Cut your hinge slots
in the same manner you did for the elevator. When
this is complete, taper the LE the same way as the
leading edge of the elevator.

❏ 24. Install the rudder control horn. Rest the small
nylon control horn on the rudder as indicated on the
plan and mark where to position the die-cut 1/16"
[1.6mm] plywood control horn mount. Remove the
balsa from this area and glue the control horn mount to
the rudder. Mount the control horn to the plywood base
with two #2 x 3/8” sheet metal screws.

❏ 25. It's time to do the final sanding of the rudder.
Verify the shape and taper of the rudder against the
fin. When you are satisfied, set it aside and we'll get
started on the fuselage.

14

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

Frame the Fuselage top

❏ 1. Cut the fuselage plan on the dashed lines and
tape the fuse top view to your building board. Cover
the plan with Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Gather the three 3/16" x 3/8" x 36" [4.8 x 9.5 x
914mm] grooved main stringers. Cut one of the
stringers into two pieces. One piece will be 20-3/4"
[527mm] long; the other piece, 15-1/4" [387.5] long.
Place the 20-3/4 " [527mm] long main stringer on top
of the 36" [914mm] main stringer so the ends align.
Cut the stringers and position them so that the left
side main stringer has the splice at former F6. Do the
same thing with the 15-1/4" [394mm] main stringer
on the right side but with the splice location at F7.
The splice locations are noted on the top view of the
plan. Cut, splice and glue them together at an
approximately 45-degree angle as shown in the
sketch (use your miter box if you have one).

❏ 3. Use a razor saw to cut small v-notches, 3/32"
[2.4mm] deep in the inside of the 36" [914mm]
stringer. Do this in the area that will be glued between
the nose ring and F1. This will allow the stringers to
conform to the shape as shown on the plan.

❏ 4. You will notice that the right side main stringer
gets cut away forward of F1. Leave it in place for
now. This will help to secure the nose ring as we
begin the process of framing the fuselage.

❏ 5. Pin the two stringers to the plan so the left side
main stringer is spliced at F6 and the right side main
stringer is at F7 as shown on the plan.

❏ 6. Refer to the Pushrod Locations area on the fuse
plan and drill 3/16" [4.8mm] holes through the punch
marks in the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers
F8 and F9. One hole in F8, two in F9.

❏ 7. Locate the two formers F1 and F1A. Using
6-minute epoxy, glue the two F1 formers together
and then the two F1A formers and set them aside
to dry . Do not glue the F1 and F1A formers together

at this time.

❏ 8. Test fit all die-cut 1/8" [302mm] plywood formers
(F2 through F10) to the main stringers over their
locations on the plan. You may need to bevel the
notches in some of the rear formers to accommodate
the angle at which they join the main stringers. Use a
small square to make sure the formers are vertical
and glue them to the main stringers. Don't be
concerned if the formers are slightly warped. You will
be able to straighten them when you add the stringers.

❏ 9. Test fit and then glue the Stab Saddles into
position over the main stringers and to former F9
and F10.

15