Top Flite A0140 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both

material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final
user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all
resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the
buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models

P.O. Box 788

Urbana, Il 61803

Technical Assistance - Call [phone]

SPF6P03 V1.0

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Entire Contents © Copyright 1997

™

MADE IN

USA

TABLE OF CONTENTS

AND BUILDING SEQUENCE

INTRODUCTION .................................................3

PRECAUTIONS...................................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE .........................3

Engine selection ................................................3

Exhaust system .................................................4

Retractable landing gear....................................4

Flaps..................................................................4

TOP FLITE SCALE ACCESSORIES..................4

Scale cockpit interior..........................................4

Scale propeller and spinner...............................5

COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS...............5

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED ................................5

Building supplies................................................6

Tools..................................................................6

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES........................6

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS .............................7

TYPES OF WOOD ..............................................7

GET READY TO BUILD......................................7

DIE-CUT PATTERNS .....................................8&9

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES..........................10

Build the stab....................................................10

Build the elevators............................................12

Build the fin.......................................................14

Build the rudder ................................................15

BUILD THE WING.............................................16

Preparations .....................................................16

Build the outer wing panels...............................17

Build the center section ....................................19

Join the outer panels to the center section.......21

Fit the landing gear...........................................22

Prepare the outer panels for sheeting ..............23

Make the wing skins .........................................23

Sheet the bottom of the wing............................24

Prepare the top of the wing for sheeting...........25

Sheet the top of the wing..................................27

Build the flaps...................................................27

Build the ailerons ..............................................30

Finish the wing..................................................31

BUILD THE FUSELAGE...................................32

Frame the fuselage top.....................................32

Sheet the top of the fuselage............................35

Mount the fin and stab......................................36

Finish framing the fuselage...............................37

Mount the tail wheel assembly..........................38

Prepare the fuse for sheeting ...........................39

Sheet the bottom of the fuse.............................40

FINAL CONSTRUCTION ..................................41

Mount the wing to the fuselage.........................41

Build the wing fillet............................................42

Build the bottom wing fairing.............................43

Mount the engine and cowl...............................43

Hookup the controls..........................................45

Install the radio .................................................47

Install the cockpit and canopy...........................48

FINISHING.........................................................49

Fuelproofing......................................................49

Prepare the model for covering ........................49

Balance the airplane laterally............................49

Cover the model with MonoKote.......................50

Painting.............................................................51

Join the control surfaces...................................52

Scale details ....................................................52

GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY...............56

Balance your model..........................................56

Final hookups and checks................................57

PREFLIGHT ......................................................58

Identify your model ...........................................58

Charge your batteries .......................................58

Balance your propellers....................................58

Find a safe place to fly......................................58

Ground check your model.................................58

Range check your radio....................................58

Check list ..........................................................58

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS...................59

AMA SAFETY CODE........................................60

FLYING..............................................................60

Takeoff..............................................................60

Flight.................................................................60

Landing.............................................................61

Flaps.................................................................61

TWO VIEW DRAWING.......................back cover

Your Spitfire is not a toy, but a sophisticated
working model that functions very much like an
actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance, if you do not
assemble and operate your Spitfire correctly, you
could possibly injure yourself or spectators and
damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and
your first flights from an experienced,
knowledgeable modeler. You’ll learn faster and

avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready
to solo. Your local hobby shop has information
about flying clubs in your area whose membership
includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500
chartered clubs across the country. We
recommend you join the AMA which will insure you
at AMA club sites and events. AMA membership is
required at chartered club fields where qualified
flight instructors are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

or via the internet at : http://www.modelaircraft.org

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTION

- 2 -

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the

Top Flite

Gold Edition

Spitfire. The model we have

chosen to replicate is the Mk IX—the second most
popular

Spit

ever, reaching a total production of
5,665 units. Considered to be the finest Spitfire of all,
the Mk IX went into operational service in July, 1942.

Though all of the models in the Gold Edition line
feature standard construction techniques and basic
materials that most modelers are familiar with, we
feel that the Spitfire may be the easiest one to build.
Although the Spitfire isa scale model with plenty of
detail, it is one of the cleanest subjects without any
tricky areas found on some scale birds. If you’re not
already in love with the Spitfire, you’re in for a
surprise! The

Spit

doesn’t seem to have the
menacing looks of the husky P-47 or the speedy
P-51, but as you near completion you’ll grow to
appreciate the clean lines and round contour of your
Spitfire. And after the covering is done, you’ve added
all the scale details and put the wing on the fuse,
you’ll be transformed into a true Spitfire fan! With the
British roundels and invasion stripes, your Spitfire will
surely stand out from the rest of the models on the
flight line!

Another phenomenon with the Spitfire is its deceiving
size while under construction. At first, you may think

“Gee, these tail surfaces sure are small”

or,

“This

model doesn’t have a very big wingspan.”

But don’t
worry. Once you join the tail surfaces to the fuse, add
the cowl and spinner, then glue the wing tips to the
wing and put it all together, your enthusiasm will soar
when you realize that this really is a good size model!

One last note before you get started: we highly
recommend you get some pictures or a book about
Spitfires, or send for your documentation package as
soon as possible. This way, you can study the
drawings and photos to get a feel for how your
Spitfire should look when you’re done. This will also
help you figure out what scale details to add and
decide on a trim scheme (you can also dream about
how cool your Spitfire is going to look.) One of the
books we recommend is the Squadron/Signal
Publications

Spitfire in Action

book No. 39
(SQUZ1039). It features lots of historical and
technical information as well as detailed drawings,
photos and trim schemes.

Well, this should be enough to get your juices
flowing, so move your other projects off your
workbench, say goodbye to your significant other for
a while and read on!

Please inspect all parts carefully before starting
to build! If any parts are missing, broken or
defective, or if you have any questions about
building or flying this model, please call us at
[phone] and we’ll be glad to help. If you
are calling for replacement parts, please look up
the part numbers and the kit identification
number (stamped on the end of the carton) and
have them ready when calling.

PRECAUTIONS

1. You must build the plane according to the plan
and instructions. Do not alter or modify the

model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or
unflyable model. In a few cases the plan and

instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances you should assume the plan
and written instructions are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first
class condition, the correct sized engine and
correct components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.)
throughout your building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly
on the ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model before
every flight to insure that all equipment is operating
and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,
you must fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced R/C pilot.

ENGINE SELECTION

Recommended engine size:

.61 to .75 cu. in. [10.0 - 12.0cc] 2-stroke
.70 to .91 cu. in. [11.5 - 15.0cc] 4-stroke

Your Spitfire will fly well with any of the
recommended engines. The 4-stroke engines and
most .75 cu. in. [12.0cc] 2-stroke engines will turn a

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you

with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance
or safety of your completed model.

Your Top Flite Gold Edition Spitfire Mk IX is
intended for scale and general sport flying
including mild aerobatics such as loops, stall
turns, rolls, etc. Its structure is designed to
withstand such stresses. If you intend to use
your Spitfire for more abusive types of flying such
as racing, aggressive aerobatics, or flying from
rough fields, it is your responsibility to reinforce
areas of the model that will be subjected to the
resulting unusually high stresses.

- 3 -

larger prop at lower RPM. This is often desirable for
scale realism. Many .61 cu. in. [10.0cc] 2-stroke
engines produce about as much horsepower as the
popular .75 [12.0cc] 2-stroke engines and will fly the
Spitfire extremely well. If you use a .61 [10.0cc] 2­stroke, a ball bearing, Schnuerle-ported engine is
recommended. Our prototype

Spit

weighs 9-1/2
pounds [4310g] with all of the options, including
flaps and the scale cockpit interior and was flown
with an O.S. .61 cu. in. [10.0cc] engine. This

engine provided excellent performance and
more than enough power. Although larger engines

can be used to power this model, the extra
horsepower is not needed.

The included adjustable engine mount will hold a
range of engines from .61 cu. in. [10.0cc] 2-stroke
through .91 cu. in. [15.0cc] 4-stroke.

EXHAUST SYSTEM

A Top Flite®header and muffler are available that
will fit inside your cowl. They are designed for
2-stroke engines mounted inverted as used on the
model and shown in the instructions. We also used
a 3/4" [19mm] (inside diameter) Silicone tube
(AERG2220) to connect the muffler to the header.

Headers:

for O.S.®.61SF, TOPQ7920
for SuperTigre™.61-.75 K series (muffler bolts

go through the muffler and screw into the
engine), TOPQ7925

for SuperTigre .61-.75 G series (muffler bolts
go through the engine and screw into the

muffler), TOPQ7926
.61-.75 Warbird In-Cowl Muffler, TOPQ7915

RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR

You may build your Spitfire either with fixed or
retractable landing gear. Of course, fixed landing
gear will be easier to install than retracts; but we
provide detailed instructions on retract installation
so you should have no trouble. Your Gold Edition
Spitfire is designed to accept the Robart #605 90
degree HD (

Heavy Duty

with 3/16" [4.8mm] struts)
pneumatic retracts. You may use other retractable
landing gear systems but it is up to you to make
any modifications that may be necessary. With the
Robart retracts, you may substitute scale
appearing oleo-type

Robostruts

for the coil-and­wire landing gear wires included with the retracts.
However, we recommend Robostruts only for
experienced fliers as they are very rigid and do not
absorb as much shock as standard wire-and-coil
landing gear. We mounted a micro servo in the
bottom servo tray to actuate the air control valve.
You could use a standard servo for this but you
may have to mount it in an alternate location.

For Retractable Landing Gear you will need
these items:

Robart #605 90 degree HD Pneumatic
Retracts (ROBQ0005)
Great Planes®2" x 3/16" [50 x 4.8mm] Bolt-On
Axles (GPMQ4278)
Great Planes 3/16" [4.8mm] wheel collars
(GPMQ4309)
Robart #188 Air Control Kit (ROBQ2388)
Robart #164G Hand Pump with Gauge
(ROBQ2363)
(2) Robart #190 Quick Connectors
(ROBQ2395 pkg. of 2)
Robart #189 Air Restrictor (ROBQ2395)
Servo for the air control valve (micro or mini
servo preferred)

FLAPS

Your Spitfire is designed to incorporate scale split
flaps; however, flaps are optional and not
necessary for an excellent flying experience.
Without flaps, the takeoff roll is longer and the
landing speed is faster.

The flaps are not difficult to build, but they do
require good craftsmanship to fit well. Flaps add
nicely to the model’s flight characteristics and scale
appearance. Only slight trim correction is needed
when flaps are used with the recommended throws.
Flaps are highly recommended for those who wish
to install them. You will find more information on the
use of the flaps in the

Flying

section near the end of

this manual.

For Flaps, you will need the following
additional items:

Standard servo
6" [150mm] Servo extension
(8) Small Pivot Point Hinges

(GPMQ4001, pkg. of 15)

TOP FLITE SCALE ACCESSORIES

SCALE COCKPIT INTERIOR

Your Spitfire won’t be complete without the Top
Flite Spitfire Scale Cockpit Kit (TOPQ8403). The
cockpit kit includes the floor, side panels,

- 4 -

instrument panel, seat and armor back rest! You
don’t install the cockpit kit until you are near the
end of construction and no modifications to the
fuselage are required to install it. Instructions for
painting, detailing and installing your Scale Cockpit
Kit are included with the cockpit kit.

SCALE PROPELLER AND SPINNER

Although Top Flite does not offer a scale static
display propeller for your Spitfire, you can modify
the Top Flite scale P-51 propeller (TOPQ7906) to
look like the Spitfire propeller. This requires a little
bit of

elbow grease

and is only recommended for
modelers who have a belt sander or who are
prepared to do lots of sanding by hand to whittle the
blades down. An alternate method would be to join
two 19" [480mm] wood propellers and carve them to
shape. In either case a template is provided on the
plan so you can arrive at the correct propeller blade
shape for your Spitfire. See page 53 of the manual
for more information on the static display propeller.

For the spinner, we used a Top Flite 3.5" [89mm]
white spinner (TOPQ5406). We primed and then
painted it. It’s nearly the same shape as the Spitfire
Mk IX spinner. This is the same spinner we
recommend for flying so you might want to buy two
spinners—one for your static display prop and one
for flying.

COMPETITION-MINDED

MODELERS

We designed our Spitfire from scale drawings
supplied by Scale Model Research (address
follows) and drawings and sketches in Squadron’s

Spitfire in Action

book. The scale of your Gold

Edition Spitfire Mk IX is 1:7, or one-seventh scale.
If you plan to enter your

Spit

in scale competition (it’s
lots of fun and the runways are almost always
paved!), this kit qualifies for Fun Scale and the

Sportsman

and

Expert

classes in Sport Scale. Fun
Scale and Sport Scale have the same flight
requirements where you must perform ten
maneuvers of which five are mandatory. The other
five are up to you—easy stuff like a loop or a roll, a
slow, low pass with flaps extended, or maybe a
touch-and-go. If you have never competed in a scale
contest, you could start out in Fun Scale. In Fun
Scale, the only documentation you need for static
judging is any proof that a full size aircraft of this type,
in the paint/markings scheme on your model, did
exist. A single photo, a kit box cover, even a painting
is sufficient proof! If you’re interested, contact the
AMA for a rule book which will tell you everything you
need to know. Look in the back of the AMA magazine
(

Model Aviation

) for a schedule of events.

The main landing gear has been moved outward.
They pivot in a scale manner as the full sized
Spitfires did, but the wells are moved slightly out
and forward, just behind the main spar. The stance
on the ground is scale. This modification greatly
improves the ground handling of the model.

Although the fin and stab retain their accurate hinge
line, the entire tail (fin/rudder and stab/elevator)
have been enlarged by 19.5%. This gives the model
a very solid feel in the air and will allow the model to
remain controllable through the stall.

The trim scheme of the Spitfire on the kit box
cover is the same as the one on the cover of the
Squadron book (there are many more trim schemes
inside too). Our prototype was covered in grey Top
Flite MonoKote®film, then painted olive drab and
flat-coated with Top Flite LustreKote™. Decals for
the trim scheme on the box are provided in the kit
but you could make your own from MonoKote film if
you decide to try another trim scheme. You should
also look into the

flat

MonoKote film colors. They
are ideal for military trim schemes such as the ones
found on many Spitfires.

If you are not too concerned with an exact scale
trim scheme you can make a variation of the one
on the box, or design your own. If you are going to
compete in scale competition, use the photos in
your documentation package as a guide for your
trim scheme.

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

These are additional items you will need to complete
your Spitfire that are

not included

with your kit. Order
numbers are in parentheses (GPMQ4161). Our
exclusive brand is listed where possible: TOP is the
Top Flite brand, GPM is the Great Planes brand and
HCA is the Hobbico®brand.

❏4 to 6 channel radio with 5 to 7 servos
❏(1) Y-connector for aileron servos
❏(1) 6" [150mm] servo extension cord for ailerons
❏3-1/2" [89mm] Main Wheels (ROBQ1516)
❏(2) 3/16" [4.8mm] Wheel Collars (GPMQ4309)

(4 pcs. for fixed gear)

❏1-1/4" [32mm] Tail wheel (GPMQ4282)

DOCUMENTATION

Three view drawings and photo packs of full size
Spitfires are available from:

Scale Model Research

3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

[phone]

- 5 -

❏3/32" [2.4mm] Wheel Collar for tailwheel

(GPMQ4302)

❏12 oz. [360cc] Fuel Tank (GPMQ4105)
❏24" [610mm] Medium Silicone Fuel Tubing

(GPMQ4131)

❏Fuel Filler Valve (GPMQ4160)
❏3-1/2" [89mm] Spinner,

see

Scale propeller and

spinner section on page 53

❏1/4" [6mm] R/C Foam Rubber Padding

(HCAQ1000)

❏Pilot Figure (WBRQ2476) (a 1/7-scale pilot

figure is optional if the cockpit kit is used)

❏Exhaust Deflector (HCAP2175)
❏2 - 3 rolls Top Flite Super MonoKote covering,

see page 50

❏Paint, see page 51
❏Propellers, see the instructions with your engine

BUILDING SUPPLIES

Here is a check list of supplies you should have on
hand while building. We recommend Great Planes
Pro™ CA and Epoxy.

❏2 oz. [60g] Thin CA (GPMR6003)
❏2 oz. [60g] Medium CA+ (GPMR6009)
❏2 oz. [60g] Thick CA- (GPMR6015)
❏CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏CA Debonder (GMPR6039)
❏CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏30-minute (GPMR6047)
❏Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
❏J & Z Products

Z RC/56

canopy glue

(JOZR5007)

❏Microballoons (TOPR1090)
❏Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏Lightweight Hobby Filler (HCAR3401)
❏Auto body filler (Bondo

®

or similar)

❏Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol (to clean up

excess epoxy)

❏Masking Tape (TOPR8018, 8014, 8012)
❏Wax Paper or Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
❏#11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 qty.)
❏Single-Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312, 100 qty.)
❏T-Pins small (HCAR5100), medium (HCAR5150),

large (HCAR5200)

TOOLS

❏

Sealing iron (TOPR2100)

❏Razor Plane (MASR1510)
❏Hobbico Builder’s Triangle (HCAR0480)
❏Drill Bits:

1/16" [1.60mm] #48 [1.95mm] (or 5/64"),
3/32" [2.40mm] 9/64" [3.60mm] (or 1/8"),
1/8" [3.10mm] 5/32" [4.00mm]
3/16" [4.70mm] 7/32" [5.60mm]
1/4" [6.30mm] 17/64" [6.70mm]
#10 [4.90mm] or 13/64"
(or 1/4-20 tap and drill set)
#29 [3.40mm] or 9/64"
(or 8-32 tap and drill set)

❏1/4-20 Tap and drill (GPMR8105)
❏8-32 Tap and drill (GPMR8103)
❏Tap wrench (GPMR8120)
❏Kyosho

®

Lexan®Curved Scissors (KYOR1010)

❏Long handle 9/64" ball end hex wrench

(GPMR8004)

❏Silver Solder (GPMR8070 w/flux)
❏Easy–Touch

™

Bar Sanders

❏Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)
❏Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏Hot Sock

™

(TOPR2175)

EASY-TOUCH BAR SANDER

A flat, durable, easy-to-handle sanding tool is a
necessity for building a well finished model. Great
Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch

Bar Sanders (patent pending) and replaceable
Easy-Touch Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. While

building the Spitfire we used two 5-1/2" [140mm]
bar sanders and two 11" [280mm] bar sanders
equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit adhesive-backed
sandpaper. Here is the complete list of Easy-Touch
Bar Sanders and adhesive-backed sandpaper:

5-1/2" [140mm] (GPMR6169)

11" [280mm] (GPMR6170)
22" [560mm] (GPMR6172)
33" [835mm] (GPMR6174)
44" [1118mm] (GPMR6176)

Contour Multi-Sander

11" [280mm] (GPMR6190)

The Easy-Touch Adhesive-Backed Sandpaper is
available in 2" x 12' rolls:

80-grit (GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
220-grit (GPMR6185)

Assortment of 5-1/2" [140mm] strips (GPMR6189)
We also use 320 or 400-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper

for finish sanding.

- 6 -

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

•

There are two types of screws used in this kit.
Sheet metal screws are designated by a

number and a length.
For example #6 x 3/4" [19.1mm]

Machine screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4" [19.1mm]

•

When you see the term

test fit

in the
instructions, it means that you should first
position the part on the assembly without using
any glue, then slightly modify or

custom fit

the

part as necessary for the best fit.

•

Whenever the term

glue

is used you should rely
upon your experience to decide what type of
glue to use. When a specific type of adhesive
works best for that step we will tell you what type
of glue to use.

•

Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either

30-minute epoxy or6- minute epoxy.
When 30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly
recommended that you use only 30-minute (or
45-minute) epoxy because you will need the
working time and/or the additional strength.

•

Occasionally we refer to the

top

or

bottom

of the

model or upor

down

. To avoid confusion, the

top

or

bottom

of the model is as it would be
when the airplane is right side up and will be
referred to as the top even if the model is upside
down during that step,

i.e.

the top main spar is

always the top main spar even if the wing is
upside down when you are working on it.
Similarly,

move the former up

means move the
former toward the top of the fuselage even if the
fuselage is upside down when you are working
on it.

•

When you get to each step, read that step
completely through to the end before you
begin. Frequently there is important information
or a note at the end of the step that you need to
know before you start.

•

Photos and sketches are placed ahead of the
step they refer to. Frequently you can study
photos in following steps to get another view of
the same parts.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

Deg = degrees Elev = elevator

Fuse = fuselage " = inches

LE = leading edge Ply = plywood

Stab = stabilizer TE = trailing edge

LG = landing gear mm = millimeters

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

GET READY TO BUILD

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Roll them inside out so
they lie flat.

2. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a
ballpoint pen (not a felt tip pen) to lightly write the
name or size on each piece so you can identify it
later. Use the

die-cut patterns

on pages 8 & 9 to
identify and mark the die-cut parts before you
remove them from their die sheets. Many of the
parts already have numbers stamped on them, but
in some cases the number is located alongside the
parts. You may remove all the die-cut parts from
their die sheets now or wait until you need them. If a
part is difficult to remove, don’t force it out but cut
around it with a #11 blade. After you remove the
parts from their die sheets, lightly sand the edges to
remove slivers or die-cutting irregularities. Save
some of the larger scraps of wood.

3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab,
fin, wing, and fuse. Zipper-top food storage bags
are handy to store parts in as you sort, identify and
separate them into subassemblies.

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm
3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

METRIC CONVERSION

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

- 7 -

- 8 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

- 9 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

BUILD THE STAB

❏1. Use your own method or the

Hot Tip

that follows
to glue two 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa
sheets together to make a 6" x 30 " [152 x 762mm]
sheet for the top and bottom stab skins.

This is the same procedure we will recommend
when it is time to make the wing skins.

❏ G. After the glue dries, remove the masking

tape and sand the sheet flat with your bar
sander and 150-grit sandpaper. The idea is to
sand the sheeting before you glue it to the
structure. This eliminates low spots that can
occur over the wing ribs from sanding too much
after you glue the sheeting in place.

❏ F. Place weights on top of the sheets to hold

them down. We prefer plastic bags filled with
lead shot, but anything similar will do the job.

❏ E. Inspect the seam and press the sheets

together where they do not align.

❏ D. Use a credit card or something similar to

simultaneously press the sheets flat as you
squeegee the excess glue from the seam. Wipe
the glue off your squeegee so it’s ready for the
next time. Immediately proceed to the next step.

❏ C. Place a sheet of waxed paper on your

workbench. Turn the taped together sheets over
and apply aliphatic resin (wood workers glue
such as Great Planes Pro) to the seams.

❏ B. Tightly tape the sheets together with

masking tape.

❏ A. Use a straightedge and a sharp #11 blade

to true one edge of both sheets. Do not cut all
the way through the first time but make several
passes with your knife to prevent the wood
from splitting.

HOW TO MAKE THE STAB SKINS

Top Flite selects balsa that is intended for sheeting,
though occasionally a few of these sheets may
have a small nick or split near the ends. If your kit
contains a few of these sheets, arrange them and
glue them together so the defects will not interfere
with the final shape of the skin.

- 10 -

❏ 2. While you’re making skins, make a 6" x 15"

[152 x 381mm] fin skin by cutting a 1/16" x 3" x
30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa sheet in half and
gluing the two pieces together. Set the skins aside
for now.

❏ 3. Carefully cut along the partially die-cut lines

in the front of the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa
stab ribs and remove the pieces of balsa to
accommodate the stab core. Leave the jig tabs in
place on the bottom of the ribs.

❏ 4. Position the fuse plan so the stab plan is

over your building board, or cut the stab from the
plan and tape it to your building board. Cover the
stab plan with waxed paper.

❏5. Temporarily pin a 1/4" x 5/8" x 18" [6.4 x 15.9

x 457mm] balsa stab TE over the stab TE on the
plan. This will help you accurately position the stab
ribs until you raise the TE and glue it in place. Use
small T-pins to pin the stab ribs over their location
on the plan so they contact the stab TE. Insert the
T-pins through the ribs so they will not interfere
with the stab core.

Use this photo for the next two steps.

❏ 6. Use medium CA to glue the die-cut 3/16"

[4.8mm] balsa stab core in the notches of the ribs.
Bevel the fronts of the ribs so the die-cut 3/32"
[2.4mm] balsa stab leading edges will align with
the front of the stab core. Glue the stab leading
edges to the top of the stab core.

❏ 7. Remove the stab TE from your building

board and trim it to the length shown on the plan.
Center the TE on the ends of the ribs and glue it
in position.

❏ 8. Use the stab skin template on the plan to

make the top and bottom stab skin from the 1/16"
[1.6mm] sheets you glued together earlier.

❏ 9. Trim the LE of one of the stab skins so it

accurately fits the stab leading edges. Slightly
bevel the LE of the skin to match the angle at
which it contacts the stab LE’s.

❏10. Trim the top of the stab TE so it is even with

the tops of the ribs. Remove all the T-pins except
the ones in tip ribs S6. Make sure none of the
T-pins will be concealed under the stab sheeting
so you will be able to remove the stab after you
glue the sheeting in place.

❏11. Glue the stab skin to the top of the stab. We

recommend thin CA for the leading edge of the
skin and aliphatic resin for the ribs and TE. Use
weights and T-pins to hold the skin down until the
glue cures.

❏12. Remove the weights and T-pins and trim the

stab skin so it is even with the tips and TE. Glue the
bottom of the ribs to the stab core, then carefully cut
the jig tabs from the bottom of the ribs.

❏ 13. Cut six 1" [25mm] long hinge blocks from

the 1/4" x 1/2" x 12" [6.4 x 12.7 x 305mm] balsa
stick. Glue the hinge blocks to the stab TE where
shown on the plan. Trim the TE so it is even with
the ribs and lightly sand the bumps of the ribs left
from the jig tabs. You can see the hinge blocks in
the next photo.

Note: Refrain from using CA accelerator, or use
it sparingly. Residual accelerator can make the
CA you use in the following steps cure quickly
and unexpectedly—even if has been sprayed on
hours before.

- 11 -

❏ 14. Trim the front of the ribs to accommodate

the bottom stab leading edges the same way you
did the top. Glue the stab leading edges to the
stab core.

❏ 15. Test fit and glue the bottom stab skin to the

bottom of the stab. As you do this, use care not
to add any twist to the stab as it is no longer
supported by the jig tabs. If you haven’t used too
much accelerator, you could use medium or thick
CA and hold the skin in position with your hands
until the CA cures.

❏ 16. Trim the bottom skin so it is even with the

tips and stab TE. Roughly trim the stab leading
edge so it is even with the sheeting and resembles
the cross section on the plan but do not sand it to
final shape yet.

What a nice piece of workmanship. I bet you don’t
need any filler at all! You’re off to a good start so
let’s move on to the elevators.

BUILD THE ELEVATORS

Note: The die-cut elevator bases included in the

kit have one large lightening hole instead of the
two smaller ones shown in the instruction manual
photos. This is to reduce the weight in the tail.
Start with the left elevator.

❏❏1. Position one of the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm]

balsa elevator bases over the elevator plan and
lightly mark the location of the elevator ribs on
the base.

❏❏2. Glue a die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa elevator

tip block and a die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa root
block to both sides of the elevator base as shown.

❏❏3. Glue the elevator base, on center, to a

die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa elevator leading edge.
You can see it in the next photo.

❏❏4. Sand the elevator root blocks and the

elevator tip blocks to a

wedge

so they match the
cross section on the plan. Sand the top and bottom
of the elevator LE to match the root and tip blocks.
Do not sand the “V” on LE of the elevator and do
not round the tips until instructed to do so.

❏❏5. Insert a T-pin through the center of the

elevator LE near the tip and near the root. Place a
straightedge across the T-pins and draw a
centerline on the elevator LE with a ballpoint pen.
Draw a centerline along the TE of the stab the
same way.

❏❏6. Glue one of the shaped 5/8" [15.9mm]

balsa stab tip blocks to the left side of the stab.

❏❏7. Mark the center of the stab on the TE and

the location of the elevator roots where shown on
the plan (refer to the following photo). Use thick or
medium CA to

tack glue

the elevator to the
stab—just a drop in three or four places. Add a few
pieces of masking tape for a little extra security.
Make sure the elevator is centered vertically on
the stab.

❏❏8. Glue the shaped 5/8" [15.9mm] balsa

elevator balance tab to the elevator LE with
medium or thick CA. There should be approximately
a 1/16" [1.6mm] gap between the elevator balance
tab and the stab tip.

- 12 -

❏❏9. Use a razor plane and your bar sander

with 80-grit sandpaper to sand the elevator and
stab tips as shown on the plan. Avoid sanding the
1/16" [1.6mm] stab sheeting. Proceed slowly,
removing small amounts of material at a time and
inspect your work frequently.

❏ 10. Return to step 7 and build the right elevator

the same way.
Note: It is more important that the elevator tips

match each other rather than match the plans
perfectly. As you proceed, compare the right tip to
the left tip to make sure they are identical.

❏ 11. Use three 3/32" x 3/8" x 24" [2.4 x 9.5 x

610mm] balsa sticks to make the elevator ribs
and glue them to the side of the elevators where
you marked the locations of the ribs. Glue the ribs
to the other side of the elevators matching them to
the ribs you already glued. Shape the ribs to match
the shape of the root and tip blocks and the cross
section on the plan.

❏ 12. Round the leading edge of the stab as

shown on the cross section of the plan, blending it
to the stab tips.

❏ 13. Carefully

break

both elevators free from the
stab. Notice which elevator matches which side of
the stab. Remove any

glue bumps

left from the CA

you used to tack glue the elevators to the stab.

❏ 14. Mark the location of the hinge slots on the

elevators and stab where shown on the plan. Glue
pieces of leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa to both
sides of the elevator bases over the location of the
hinge slots (see the photo at step 19). Cut the
hinge slots in the elevators and the stab along the
centerlines you marked earlier with a #11 blade.

❏ 15. Using the sketch above, cut six hinges from

the CA hinge strip supplied with this kit. Snip the
corners off so they go into the slots easier. You
may cut all sixteen hinges now, or just cut them as
you need them.

❏ 16. Test fit the hinges into the slots. If the

hinges do not slide into the slots easily, work your
knife blade back and forth in the slot a few times to
provide more clearance (it is really the back edge
of the blade that does the work here in widening
the slot).

IMPORTANT NOTES ABOUT CA HINGES

This kit is supplied with a CA hinge material
consisting of a 3-layer lamination of mylar
and polyester. It is specially made for hinging
model airplane control surfaces. When properly
installed, this type of CA hinge provides the best
combination of strength, durability and easy
installation. We trust all of our Gold Edition
warbirds to these hinges, but it is essential
to install them correctly. Carefully follow
the hinging instructions in this manual for the
best result.

The most common mistake made by modelers
when installing CA hinges is making the hinge
slots too tight restricting the flow of CA to the
back of the hinges; or not using enough glue to
fully secure the hinge over its entire surface area.
This results in hinges that are only

tack glued

into
the hinge slots. The techniques for cutting the
hinge slots and gluing in CA hinges (near the end
of the manual) have been developed to ensure
thorough and secure gluing.

- 13 -

CUT HINGE SLOT

WITH HOBBY KNIFE

AND #11 BLADE

1"
1"

3/4"

❏ 17. Drill a 3/32" [2.40mm] hole, 1/2" [13mm]

deep in the center of the hinge slots. Use a rotary
tool with a 3/32" [2.40mm] drill bit or a carbide
cutter for the best results. Reinsert your knife
blade to

clean out

the slot after you drill the holes.

❏18. Test fit the elevators to the stab with the hinges.

❏ 19. Position the elevator joiner on the TE of

the stab and center it between the elevators. Mark
the LE of both elevators where the joiner will enter.

❏ 20. Drill a 9/64" [3.60mm] (or 1/8") hole at the

marks you made on the centerline of both elevator

leading edges. Cut a slot in the leading edge of
both elevators to accommodate the joiner wire.
Hint: Use a 5/32" [4mm] brass tube sharpened at
one end to cut the slots.

❏ 21. Bevel the leading edges of the elevators to

a “V” as shown on the cross section of the plan.
Use the centerline on the elevator leading edges
as a guide. Test fit the elevators to the stab with
the joiner wire and hinges. If necessary, remove
the joiner and

tweak

it so both elevators are in the

same plane.

❏22. Round the root ends of the elevators.

❏ 23. Remove material from the bottom of the left

elevator root block to accommodate the die-cut 1/8"
[3.2mm] plywood control horn mounting plate.
Securely glue the mounting plate to the root block
and sand it to blend with the rest of the elevator.

❏ 24. Once more, test fit the elevators to the stab

with the hinges. Make sure you can obtain the
control throws indicated in the back of the manual.
If you cannot, increase the “V” on the leading edge
of the elevators. If the gap between the elevator
balance tab and the stab tip block is the source of
interference, increase the gap or bevel the elevator
balance tab as shown in the sketch until you can
obtain the indicated elevator throw.

Set the stab and elevators aside.

BUILD THE FIN

❏ 1. Position the fuse plan so the fin plan is over

your building board and cover it with wax paper.

❏ 2. Carefully cut along the partially die-cut lines

in the front of the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa
fin ribs and remove the pieces of balsa to
accommodate the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa fin
LE core (the same way you did for the stab ribs).

- 14 -

DRILL A 3/32" HOLE

1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER

OF HINGE SLOT

❏ 3. See the following photo and temporarily pin

the remainder of the 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4 x 12.7mm]
balsa stick you used for the stab hinge blocks (it
should be about 6" [150mm] long) to your building
board over the TE of the fin plan. This will help you
accurately position the fin ribs until you actually
glue the fin TE in position. Use small T-pins to pin
the fin ribs over their location on the plan so they
contact 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4 x 12.7mm] balsa stick.

❏4. Use medium CA to glue the fin LE core in the

notches of the ribs.

❏ 5. Cut 6" [150mm] from the 3/16" x 3/8" x 18"

[4.8 x 9.5 x 457mm] balsa stick for the fin LE. Trim
the fronts of the ribs at the same angle that the fin
LE will contact them. Glue the fin LE to the left side
(top) of the fin LE core so the excess extends
below rib V1 (see the following photo).

❏ 6. Remove the 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4 x 12.7mm] balsa

stick you had pinned over the fin TE. Center the

die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa fin TE on the fin ribs
and glue it in position.

❏ 7. Cut the fin skin for the left side of the fin from

the 1/16" x 6" x 15" [1.6 x 152 x 381mm] balsa sheet
you prepared earlier. The grain is parallel to the fin
LE and the skin should extend below rib V1 by

approximately 1/4" [6mm] to be trimmed later.
Hint: Once you make the fin skin for the left side

of the fin, use it as a template to make the skin for
the right side of the fin.

❏ 8. Remove the T-pins and glue the fin skin to

the left side of the fin.

❏ 9. Turn the fin over and glue the right side of

the ribs to the fin LE core, then carefully cut the jig
tabs from the bottom of the ribs.

❏ 10. Cut three 1" [25mm] long hinge blocks

from the 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4 x 12.7mm] balsa stick you
had temporarily pinned to the plan at the fin TE.
Glue the hinge blocks to the fin TE where shown
on the plan. Trim the TE and the hinge blocks
even with the ribs and lightly sand the bumps of
the ribs left from the jig tabs.

❏11. Cut another 6" [150mm] long fin LE from the

3/16" x 3/8" [4.8 x 9.5mm] balsa stick. Trim the
front of the ribs to accommodate the fin LE the
same way you did the other side. Glue the fin LE
to the fin LE core.

❏12. If you haven’t already done so, cut the other

fin skin. Glue the fin skin to the right side of the fin
so the sheeting extends 1/4" [6mm] below V1.

❏ 13. Trim the fin skins even with tip rib V4 and

the fin TE. Trim the leading edge of the fin so it is
even with the LE core, then shape the LE as
shown on the cross section of the plan.

BUILD THE RUDDER

❏ 1. Position the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa

rudder base over the plan and lightly mark the
location of the ribs on the base.

❏ 2. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint pen to

mark a centerline on both sides of the die-cut 1/4"
[6.4mm] balsa rudder LE. Glue the rudder base to
the rudder LE on the centerline.

Use this photo for the next three steps.

❏ 3. Glue the 3/8" x 3/4" x 2-3/8" [9.5 x 19.1 x

60.5mm] rudder blocks to both sides of the
bottom of the rudder base. You will shape them to
match the bottom of the rudder later.

❏ 4. Glue a piece of leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa

to one side of the die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa horn
block to increase its total thickness to 5/16"

[7.9mm]. Glue the balsa horn block to the right
side of the rudder base where shown on the plan.

- 15 -

❏ 5. Cut the rudder ribs from two 3/32" x 3/8" x

24" [2.4 x 9.5 x 610mm] balsa sticks and one 3/32"
x 1/2" x 12" [2.4 x 12.7 x 305mm] balsa stick (for
the bottom two rudder ribs on each side) and glue
them to the rudder base.

❏ 6. Sand the rudder ribs and the rudder blocks

so they match the cross section on the plan. Do
not sand the “V” on LE until instructed to do so.

❏ 7. Hold the rudder to the fin and position the

shaped 1/2" [12.7mm] balsa rudder tip block on
top of the rudder. View the gap between the
bottom of the rudder tip block and the top of the
fin. Sand the top of the rudder if necessary so the
gap is even. Set the rudder tip block aside for now.

❏ 8. Glue pieces of leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa

to the rudder base over the locations of the hinge
slots. Draw a centerline on the TE of the fin. Cut
the hinge slots on the centerline of the fin TE and
the rudder LE where shown on the plan.

❏9. Test fit the rudder to the fin with the hinges.
❏ 10. Using the centerline on the front of the

rudder LE as a guide, shape the LE of the rudder
to a “V” as shown on the cross section.

❏ 11. Glue the rudder tip block to the rudder and

shape it to match the plan and the fin.
Hint: After you glue the rudder tip block to the

rudder, temporarily join the rudder to the fin. Align

the rudder tip block with the tip of the fin and hold
it in place with a T-pin. Sand the tip block to match
the fin. Remove the T-pin and round the rudder tip
block to match the plan.

❏ 12. Notch the right side of the rudder to

accommodate the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
control horn mounting plate and glue it in place.
Sand the mounting plate to blend with the rudder LE.

When you’re done, your fin and rudder should look
something like this.

Alright, enough of this kid stuff. Lets get into the
meat of this project! Clean off your workbench,
vacuum the floor and start building the wing!

BUILD THE WING

PREPARATIONS

Perform steps 1, 2 and 3 only if you are
building flaps.

❏ 1. Drill a 1/8" [3.10mm] hole through the punch

mark in both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood flap
bellcrank plates. Assemble the bellcranks as

shown in the sketch with the hardware supplied
with this kit. Secure the 4-40 nut with a drop of
epoxy or thread lock.

If you are installing retracts and have purchased
your landing gear (or as soon as you do), take
the air lines out of the package, unravel them
and hang them somewhere in your shop. This
will get all the kinks out so the lines will be
easier to install later.

- 16 -

❏ 2. Mark rib 4 at the center of the leading edge.

Lay a straightedge on the rib across the mark you
made and the trailing edge of the rib where it
comes to a point. Draw a short line along the
straightedge from the trailing edge of the rib to the
notch for the inner trailing edge. This is where you
will cut the bottom of the ribs (when instructed to
do so) to accommodate the flap.

❏ 3. Do the same with the other rib 4 and ribs 5

through 8 for both wing panels.

Perform step 4 only if you are building
retractable landing gear.

❏ 4. Glue the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood rib

doublers 3-4R and 5R to both sets of die-cut

3/32" [2.4mm] balsa wing ribs 3, 4 and 5. Make
sure you build a set of right and a set of left wing
ribs by gluing the doublers to the correct side of
the ribs as shown on the plan and in the photo.

Note: Ribs 3 and 4 have doublers on one side
only, but rib 5 has doublers on both sides.

❏ 6. Remove balsa within the notches of the

plywood doublers to accommodate the landing
gear rails.

BUILD THE OUTER WING PANELS

Build the left wing panel first so yours will look the
same as the photos.

❏❏1. Cut the left wing panel from the plan or

position the plan so the left wing panel is over your
building board. Cover the left wing panel plan with
wax paper.

❏❏2. Position a 1/4" x 3/8" x 24" [6.4 x 9.5 x

610mm] basswood bottom main spar over its
location on the plan, aligning the tip of the spar
with the plan. Place a piece of leftover 1/16"
[1.6mm] balsa under the spar about 1/2" [12.7mm]
from the root end (refer to the following photo). Pin
the spar to the plan between ribs 4 and 5 and
between ribs 12 and 13. Don’t stick your pins

through

the spar but stick them into your building

board over the spar in a

crisscross

fashion.

❏❏3. Position ribs 6 through 12 on the bottom

spar over their location on the plan. Pin each rib to
the plan in two places—one at the lowest point
where they contact the plan and one at each jig
tab. As you pin the ribs down, make sure you align
the spar over the plan. Add the die-cut 1/8"
[3.2mm] plywood tip brace, rib 13, the die-cut 1/8"
[3.2mm] balsa outer trailing edge and the tip
spar to the assembly.

❏ 5. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood rib

doublers 4F, 5F and 6F to both sets of die-cut

3/32" [2.4mm] balsa wing ribs 4, 5 and 6. Make
sure you build a set of right and a set of left wing
ribs by gluing the doublers to the correct side of
the ribs as shown on the plan and in the photo.

Perform step 5 only if you are building
fixed landing gear (a scale warbird without
retracts? Won’t you reconsider?)

.

- 17 -

❏❏4. Remove the T-pins from the spar and glue

the ribs to it. As you glue each rib, simultaneously

pull

the spar up into the notch in the rib and

push

the rib down to your building board. This will
ensure that the spar is fully

seated

in the rib
notches. Glue the outer spar, the tip spar and the
tip brace to the ribs.

❏❏5. Cut 1-7/8" [48mm] from a 1/4" x 3/8" x 24"

[6.4 x 9.5 x 610mm] basswood top main spar. Fit
the spar in the notches in the top of the ribs and
glue it only to ribs 11 and 12. Notice that the top
spar

ends

at the outboard edge of rib 12.

❏❏6. Test fit ribs 4 and 5 and the 1/4" x 7/16" x

3-1/2" [6.4 x 11.1 x 89mm] plywood landing gear
rails to the wing panel (if you are not installing

retracts, disregard the landing gear rails). Use the
die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood dihedral gauge to

set rib 4 at the correct angle. Make sure the
notches in the ribs for the landing gear rails allow
the rails to go in at an angle as indicated on the
plan. Enlarge the notches if necessary.

Use this photo for the next four steps.

❏❏7. After you are satisfied with the way the

landing gear rails and ribs 4 and 5 fit together, pin
rib 5 to your building board over the plan and add
the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa inner trailing edge
to the assembly. Glue rib 5 to the bottom spar and
glue the inner trailing edge to ribs 5, 6, 7 and 8.
Glue the top spar to all the ribs except rib 4.

❏❏8. Confirm that rib 4 aligns with its location

over the plan and set it at the correct angle with
the dihedral gauge. Leave the landing gear rails in
position but do not glue them in place until
instructed to do so. Glue rib 4 to the inner trailing
edge and the top and bottom spars.

❏❏9. Cut the 1/8" x 1" x 36" [3.2 x 25.4 x

914mm] balsa sub leading edge to a length of
24-1/2" [623mm]. Save the short piece for the sub
leading edge when you build the center section.
Carefully sand a bevel on the fronts of the ribs for
a better glue joint to the sub leading edge. Glue
the sub LE to the front of ribs 4 through 13 as
shown on the plan.

❏❏10. Test-fit, then glue the precut 1/16"

[1.6mm] shear webs to the spars where shown on
the plan.

Note: The spars are slightly

tilted

to match the
airfoil of the wing so the shear webs do not fully
contact them. This presents no problems because
we will remind you to reinforce the glue joints
before you sheet the wing.

❏❏11. Trim the top of the sub leading edge so it

is even with the ribs to accommodate the top
sheeting. Sand the top spar and the outer and
inner TE’s even with the ribs.

❏❏12. Remove the wing panel from your building

board. Make sure the shear webs are securely
glued to the spars. Add CA where necessary.

❏❏13. Carefully cut the jig tabs from the bottom

of the ribs. Trim the bottom of the sub leading
edge so it is even with the ribs. Sand the bottom
spar and outer and inner TE’s even with the ribs.
Sand the ends of the spars and the LE even with

tip rib

13 and

root rib

4.

❏ 14. Return to step one and build the right wing

panel the same way.

- 18 -

BUILD THE CENTER SECTION

❏ 1. Align the center section wing plan over your

building board and cover it with waxed paper.

❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood rib

doublers 1B and 2B to rib 1 and both 2’s respectively

as shown on the plan. Glue both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
plywood wing bolt plates together.

Use this photo for the next six steps.

❏ 3. Cut the top and bottom center section

spars to the length shown on the plan from the

1/4" x 3/8" x 24" [6.4 x 9.5 x 610mm] basswood
stick. Place the bottom spar over its location on the
plan and pin it to your building board.

❏ 4. Place the ribs of the center section over the

plan on the bottom spar. Place both die-cut 1/8"
[3.2mm] plywood aft wing dowel plates and the

die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood servo mount plate
base between the #2 ribs. The holes in the dowel
plates are closest to the bottom of the wing.

❏ 5. Add both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa center

TE’s and the top spar.

❏ 6. Pin the ribs to your building board the same

way you did for the outer panels (pin down the jig
tabs and the

low point

of the ribs).

❏ 7. Make sure the ribs are in the correct location

with the doublers as shown on the plan. Remove
the T-pins that are holding the bottom spar down.
Pull the bottom spar up into the notches of the ribs
and glue it to the ribs the same as you did for the
outer panels. Avoid gluing the aft dowel plates at
this time.

Note: Make sure both #3 ribs are vertical when
you glue them to the spars.

❏ 8. Align the top edge of both aft dowel plates

with the top spar and glue them in position. Glue
the rest of the joints made by the ribs, the top spar,
the servo plate and the center TE’s.

Use this photo for the next two steps.

❏ 9. Use a straightedge to draw a line 1/8" [3mm]

from the edge of a leftover 1/8" x 1" [3.2 x 25.4mm]
sub LE you used for one of the outer panels. Glue
both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood forward dowel
plates, centered, to the sub LE, aligning them with

the line you marked with a 1/8" [3.2mm] space
between them (to accommodate center rib 1).

❏ 10. Cut a 10" [250mm] center leading edge

from the 36" [914mm] long shaped balsa leading
edge stock. Center the sub LE on the back of the
center leading edge and tape them together. Use
the holes in the forward dowel plates as a guide to
drill 1/4" [6.30mm] holes through the sub leading
edge and the center leading edge for the 1/4"
[6.4mm] wing dowels.

❏ 11. Glue only the sub LE to the front of the ribs

with the forward dowel plates centered on ribs 1
and 2.

❏ 12. The same way you did for the outer panels,

trim the top of the sub LE to accommodate the
top sheeting.

❏ 13. Remove any T-pins that will be concealed

under the sheeting after you glue it to the top of
the center section.

❏ 14. Cut ten 9-1/2" [242mm] long sheets from

four 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa
sheets. Make two 15" x 9-1/2" [380 x 242mm]
center section skins by gluing together two sets
of five sheets.

❏ 15. Glue one of your skins to the top of the

center section. The front should extend past the LE
by approximately 1/16" [1.6mm] and the TE should
extend past the end of the ribs by 3/8" [9.5mm].

- 19 -

❏ 16. Take the center section off of your

building board.

Perform steps 17 through 21 only if you are
building flaps.

❏ 17. Mount your flap servo to two 5/16" x 3/4" x

7/8" [7.9 x 19.1 x 22.2mm] hardwood servo
mounts with the screws included with your servo.

Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the servo mounts to
the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood mount plate.

❏ 18. Make a one-arm servo horn from one of

your standard servo horns by cutting off the extra
arms. Insert a 0-80 ball screw in your servo arm.
Secure the ball screw with a drop of thread lock
and a 0-80 hex nut.

❏ 19. Cut an opening in the top sheeting and trim

rib 1 as necessary to accommodate your flap
servo and the mount plate.

❏ 20. Position the servo mount plate on the servo

plate base (in the center section of the wing) so
the ball on the servo arm aligns with the holes in
both #2 ribs (where the flap pushrod will come
through). Drill 1/16" [1.60mm] holes at the punch
marks in the servo mount plate through the servo
plate base.

❏ 21. Turn the center section over. Glue strips of

leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] ply to the bottom of the
plate base across the holes you drilled (see the
following photo). Re drill the holes in the plate
base through the strips with a 1/16" [1.60mm] drill.
Enlarge the holes in the servo mount plate only
with a 3/32" [2.40mm] drill. Temporarily mount the
servo mount plate to the plate base with four #2 x
3/8" [9.5mm] screws.

❏ 22. Remove the jig tabs from the bottom of the

ribs. Sand the top sheeting and sub LE even with
the ribs on both sides of the center section.

❏ 23. Test fit the laser-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood

forward wing joiners, top and bottom aft wing
joiners and the die-cut leading edge joiners.

Round one end of both 1/4" x 4" [6.4 x 102mm]
hardwood wing dowels and test fit them in the
sub leading edge and the aft wing dowel plates.

Note: You may have to cut a small section from
the wing sheeting ahead of the top spar to install

the forward joiners. If necessary, adjust the
notches in the ribs or remove excess glue so the
joiners fit well.

Each of the next three steps requires 30-minute
epoxy, so try to finish them all before taking a break.

❏ 24. Glue all the joiners to the center section

only with 30-minute epoxy. Wipe away excess

epoxy before it cures.

❏ 25. Glue the wing dowels in the center section

with 30-minute epoxy.

❏ 26. Drill a 1/4" [6.30mm] hole through both

punch marks in the wing bolt plate. Use 30-minute
epoxy to glue the wing bolt plate into the notches
of ribs 1 and 2 in the center section.

❏27. Sand the bottom of the center section so the

spars, sub LE and ribs blend. Bevel the TE of the
top sheeting to accommodate the bottom sheeting.

❏ 28. Glue the bottom sheeting to the center

section. After the glue dries, sand the edges of the
sheeting even with the ribs on both ends of the
center section.

- 20 -