Top Flite A0130 INSTRUCTION BOOK
WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both
material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite's liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final
user-
assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting
liability.
If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they
are advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
AT66P03 V1.1
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
MADE IN
Top Flite Models
P.O. Box 788
Urbana, IL 61801
Technical Assistance - Call (217) 398-8970
™
Entire Contents © Copyright 1994
USA
INTRODUCTION ................................3
Precautions...............................................3
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE EARLY
IN THE BUILDING SEQUENCE
..........4
Engine and Mount selection.....................4
Deviations from scale...............................4
Other items required.................................5
Supplies and tools needed.......................5
DIE-CUT PATTERNS..........................6
Get ready to build.....................................8
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES............8
Build the Horizontal Stabilizer...................8
Tips for making Wing & Stab Skins..........9
Build the Fin..............................................10
Build the Elevators....................................11
Build the Rudder.......................................12
BUILD THE WING..................................13
Preparation...............................................13
Build Outer Wing Panels ..........................14
Prepare the Wing Panels for the Flaps.....15
Build the Center Section...........................16
Prepare the Polyhedral Braces.................19
Join the Wing............................................20
Sheet the bottom of the Wing...................20
Tips for Silver Soldering ...........................23
Sheet the top of the Wing.........................23
Wing Completion......................................25
Build the Flaps..........................................26
Build the Ailerons......................................27
BUILD THE FUSELAGE .......................28
Top Frame Assembly................................28
Sheet the Fuselage Top Frame ................30
Install Pushrods........................................31
Attach the Stab and Fin............................32
Complete the Fuse Top ............................32
Frame the Fuse Bottom............................34
Sheet the Fuse Bottom.............................35
Mount the Wing to the Fuselage...............36
Build the Wing Fillet..................................37
Install the Engine......................................38
Fit the Cowl to the Fuse............................39
Fit the Cowl to the Engine.........................40
Fit the Flaps..............................................41
Final fit the Retracts..................................41
Fit the Fixed Gear.....................................42
FINISHING................................................42
Final sanding ............................................42
Fuel proofing.............................................42
Balance the airplane laterally....................42
Finishing reference books.........................42
Cover the structure with MonoKote...........42
Apply the decals .......................................43
Draw the panel lines.................................43
Assemble the Air Intakes & Exhaust Stack44
Painting.....................................................44
Hinging......................................................44
Hinge the Elevator....................................45
Hinge the Ailerons and Rudder.................45
Final Control Hardware hookup................45
Retracts ....................................................46
Cockpit finishing........................................46
Static Prop................................................47
Install Receiver, Switch & Battery.............47
Control surface throws..............................47
FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS......48
Balance your model..................................48
Pre-flight ...................................................49
AMA Safety Code.....................................50
FLYING ......................................................50
Balance the propeller................................50
Takeoff ......................................................50
1.20 4-Stroke note....................................51
Flying........................................................51
Landing.....................................................51
TWO-VIEW DRAWING...........................52
METRIC CONVERSIONS
1” = 25.4 mm (conversion factor)
1/64” = .4 mm
1/32” = .8 mm
1/16” = 1.6 mm
3/32” = 2.4 mm
1/8” = 3.2 mm
5/32” = 4 mm
3/16” = 4.8 mm
1/4” = 6.4 mm
3/8” = 9.5 mm
1/2” = 12.7 mm
5/8” = 15.9 mm
3/4” = 19 mm
1” = 25.4 mm
2” = 50.8 mm
3” = 76.2 mm
6” = 152.4 mm
12” = 304.8 mm
15” = 381 mm
18” = 457.2 mm
21” = 533.4 mm
24” = 609.6 mm
30” = 762 mm
36” = 914.4 mm
2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite
®
GOLD EDITION™AT-6 TEXAN.
The Top Flite AT-6 is an excellent sport
scale model that will do for modelers what its full
scale counterpart did for thousands of Allied
pilots during the second world war: train them to
fly high performance military aircraft. The Top
Flite Texan features refined aerodynamics
incorporating computer designed airfoils that
progressively change from root to tip, built-in
washout, airfoiled tail surfaces, scale split flaps,
and optimized planform to give you a plane that
will build straighter and fly better than most
model warbirds. The docile flight characteristics
of the Top Flite AT-6 enable the novice R/C
warbird pilot time to get the feel of a military
style aircraft without any of the bad traits often
associated with this type of model. In the hands
of pro, the Texan will do just about any
maneuver imaginable with precision and style.
The Gold Edition Texan is
approximately 1/7th scale. The trim scheme
used on our display model duplicates that used
by the Navy to signify an SNJ-3 instrument
trainer. Two large sheets of decals are included
to help you duplicate this scheme. The model
was covered with aluminum, red, and Cub yellow
MonoKote
®
. The cowl, canopy frame and
surface details were painted.
The Top Flite Texan makes an excellent
sport scale competition aircraft. The front end of
this model has been specially engineered to
allow you to completely hide most 2-stroke
engines in the recommended range. A special 2stroke muffler with headers to fit several of the
recommended engines has been specifically
designed for and tested in the Top Flite warbirds
including the AT-6. This muffler provides good
sound reduction while fitting entirely inside the
cowling and exiting the exhaust at the scale
location. More information on the recommended
engines and related items can be found in the
Engine and Mount Selection Section.
Please inspect all parts carefully
before starting to build! If any parts are
missing, broken or defective, or if you have
any questions about building or flying this
model, please call us at (217) 398-8970 and
we'll be glad to help. If you are calling for
replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and the kit identification number
(stamped on the end of the carton) and have
them ready when calling.
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must build the plane according to the
plans and instructions. Do not alter or modify the
model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or
unflyable model. In a few cases the plans and
instructions may differ slightly from the
photos. In those instances you should
assume the plans and written instructions
are correct.
2. You must take time to build straight, true,
and strong.
3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in
first class condition, the correct sized engine
and correct components (fuel tank, wheels,
etc.) throughout your building process.
4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly
on the ground and in the air.
5. You must test the operation of the model
before the first and each successive flight to
insure that all equipment is operating, and you
must make certain that the model has remained
structurally sound. Be sure to check external
nylon clevises often and replace if they show
signs of wear.
3
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF & OTHERS
FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTION
Your AT-6 Texan is not a toy, but a rather sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like the full scale airplane.
Because of its realistic performance, the Texan, if not assembled and operated correctly,
could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage property.
To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get
experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and during your first flights. You'll learn
faster and avoid risking your model before you're truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors.
You can also contact the national Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more
than 2,500 chartered clubs across the country. Through any one of them, instructor training
programs and insured newcomer training are available.
Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive, Muncie, IN 47302-9252 (800) 435-9262
6. You must fly the model only with the
competent help of a well experienced R/C pilot
if you are not already an experienced R/C pilot
at this time.
Remember: Take your time and follow
directions to end up with a well-built model
that is straight and true.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE EARLY IN THE
BUILDING SEQUENCE
ENGINE AND MOUNT SELECTION
The recommended engine size range is
as follows:
.60 to .91 cu. in. 2-stroke
.90 to 1.20 cu. in. 4-stroke
The AT-6 Texan will fly well with any of
the recommended engines. The 4-stroke
engines and most .90 2-stroke engines will turn
a larger prop at lower RPMs. This is often
desirable for scale realism. Many .60 2-stroke
engines produce about as much horsepower as
the popular .90 2-stroke engines and will fly the
Texan very well. If you use a .60 2-stroke, a
Schnuerle ported engine is preferred. The
prototype AT-6 with all of the options, including
flaps and retracts, was flown with an OS .61 SF.
This engine provided excellent performance and
more than enough power, even in gusty winds.
Although larger engines can be used to power
this model, the extra horsepower is not needed.
The mount selection is up to you; if you
use an O.S. 120 4-stroke, the plans show (and
the firewall is spaced for) a J-tec No. JT-122 SV.
The included mount will hold many 2-stroke
engines such as the OS .61 SF.
A special Top Flite header and muffler is
available that will fit inside your cowling. It is
primarily designed for 2-stroke engines mounted
inverted, or at a -45 degree angle as used on
our prototype.
Header for O.S .61SF (TOPQ7920)
Header for SuperTigre S61K, S75K &
S90K (TOPQ7925)
Muffler for above (TOPQ7915)
Hobbico Exhaust Diverter (HCAZ1084)
RETRACTS
The choice of fixed gear or retracts is up
to you. Retracts look good and offer great flight
realism but require some expense and additional
work. The model is designed to use any popular
90Þ pneumatic retract. The Robart #605TFT6
pneumatic retract includes a 3/16" wire strut
specifically prebent for use with the Top Flite AT-6,
and therefore offers the easiest installation.
More information on retracts
can be found in the
"Other Items Required" section of this instruction
booklet.
WHEEL SELECTION
The true scale tire size is 4" for the
mains and 1-1/4" for the tail wheel. The
recommended range of tire sizes is 3-1/4" to
4". If you use fixed gear, you may choose to use
the smaller tires to reduce drag while flying. 31/4" Robart main wheels are very close to scale
for a Texan and work well for use with retracts
because they fit into the wing easily.
FLAPS
This model is designed to incorporate
split flaps that are very scale. They are not
difficult to assemble, but they do require good
craftsmanship if they are to fit well. They add a
good deal to the model's flight characteristics
and scale appearance while causing no bad
effects. No trim correction of any kind is needed
when they are used with the recommended
throws. The flaps add drag and lift to the model
on landing approaches, which gives the plane a
very steady, locked-in feel. The flaps require one
channel, a Y-harness, and two standard servos.
They are highly recommended for those who
wish to install them. More information on the use
of the flaps may be found in the "Flying" section.
DUMMY RADIAL ENGINE
A final touch of scale realism is possible
by installing the specially designed 9 cylinder
dummy radial engine inside the cowl. The
dummy radial adds significantly to the look of the
model and also doubles as a cooling baffle for
the real engine. Made from vacuum-formed
ABS, the dummy radial is easy to assemble and
can be modified to suit any engine installation.
Part # TOPQ7901
STATIC DISPLAY PROPELLER
When displaying your model, nothing
adds more realism than a good looking scale
propeller. We have included instructions on page
47 for making your own. Remember, this
propeller is for static display only; do not attempt
to run the engine with it mounted.
DEVIATIONS FROM SCALE
If you plan to compete with the trim
scheme shown on the box, here are a few things
to consider:
4
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can
provide you with a top quality kit and great
instructions, but ultimately the quality and
flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any
way guarantee the performance of your
completed model, and no representations are
expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.
The full size AT-6 that was modeled for
this kit is a restored Navy SNJ-3.
We used
documentation and photos available from Frank
Tiano Enterprises for the trim scheme but added
the "6 of Diamonds" emblem from a different AT-
6. During the restoration of the full size aircraft
,
the canopy was replaced with a "G" series
canopy that has fewer frame members than the
original AT-6A or SNJ-3. If scale accuracy is
desired, additional frame parts can be added
with tape prior to painting. Another deviation is
that the wing chord at the tips is slightly wider
than scale, a design modification made to
improve flight characteristics. The nose has
been stretched slightly for CG reasons.
If you plan on entering your Texan in
competition, this kit will qualify for the Sport
Scale category without any changes. Always
work from photos of a full size aircraft when
finishing your model because that is what you
will need to use for judging documentation.
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
❑ Four to six channel radio with 4 to 7 servos.
❑ Engine (see page 4)
❑ Propellers (see engine instructions for recom-
mended sizes).
❑ Pilot Figures (2) (1/7 or 2" scale recommended)
❑ Fuel Tank (Great Planes 12-16 oz. recommended
#GPMQ4106)
❑ 3-1/4" to 4" Main Wheels (2) (see page 4).
❑ 1-1/4" Tail Wheel
❑ 3/16" Wheel Collars (4 for main wheels)
❑ 3/32" Wheel Collars (2 for tail wheel)
❑ Top Flite Super MonoKote (3 rolls) (see
Finishing section)
❑ Paint (see Finishing section)
❑ Silicone Fuel Tubing (Medium 3/32”)
❑ Latex Foam Rubber Padding (1/4" thick)
Optional:
❑ Retracts .................................Robart #605 TFT6
❑ Air Control Kit....................................Robart #188
❑ Air Line Restrictors (1 pkg. of 4).........Robart #189
❑ Air Line Disconnects (1 pkg. of 2)......Robart #190
❑ Great Planes “Easy Fueler” Filler Valve
#GPMQ4160
❑ Medium Hinge Points (10 for flaps)..#GPMQ4003
❑ Top Flite Dummy Radial Engine......... #TOPQ7901
❑ Engine Mount (see page 38)
SUGGESTED SUPPLIES AND TOOLS
We recommended Top Flite Supreme™ CA
and Epoxy
❑ 2 oz.CA (Thin)
❑ 2 oz. CA+(Medium)
❑ 1 oz. CA- (Thick)
❑ 6-Minute Epoxy
❑ 30-Minute Epoxy
❑ Hand or Electric Drill
❑ Drill Bits: 1/16", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16",13/64",
1/4", 17/64"
❑ Sealing Iron (Top Flite)
❑ Heat Gun (Top Flite)
❑ Hobby Saw (X-acto
®
Razor Saw)
❑ Hobby Knife, #11 Blades
❑ Razor Plane (Master Airscrew)
❑ Pliers
❑ Screw Drivers
❑ T-Pins (short & long)
❑ String
❑ Straightedge with scale
❑ Masking Tape (required for construction)
❑ Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*
❑ T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
❑ Chalk Stick
❑ Waxed Paper
❑ Thin cardstock or a file folder
❑ Lightweight Balsa Filler such as Hobbico
®
HobbyLite™ (HCAR3400)
❑ 1/4-20 Tap and Tap Wrench
❑ Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
❑ Dremel
®
Moto Tool®or similar (optional)
*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11"
T-Bar sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #150
and #220-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is
required for almost any sanding task. Sanding
blocks can be made from balsa for sanding hard
to reach spots. We also keep some #320-grit
wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding
before covering.
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS
BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
deg. = Degrees Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage Lt = Left
LG = Landing Gear Rt = Right
Ply = Plywood " = Inches
Stab = Stabilizer
LE = Leading Edge (front)
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
5
DOCUMENTATION
Three view drawings and photo packs
are available from:
Scale Model Research,
3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA
92626 (714) 979-8058
Variety of AT-6 Information, Photos, and
3-views.
Frank Tiano Enterprises,
15300 Estancia Ln., West Palm Beach,
FL 33414 (407) 795-6600
Request Top Flite A T-6 Documentation Pack
See “Finishing” on page 42.
Types of Wood
Balsa Basswood Plywood
6
DIE-CUT PATTERNS
7
DIE-CUT PATTERNS
GET READY TO BUILD
❏
1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans
inside out to make them lie flat.
❏ 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do,
figure out the name of each part by comparing it
with the plans and the parts list included with
this kit. Using a felt tip or ball point pen, write
the part name or size on each piece to avoid
confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown
on pages 6 and 7 to identify the die-cut parts
and mark them before removing them from the
sheet. Save all scraps. If any of the die-cut parts
are difficult to punch out, do not force them!
Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby knife.
After punching out the die-cut parts, use your TBar or sanding block to lightly sand the edges
to remove any die-cutting irregularities.
❏ 3. As you identify and mark the parts,
separate them into groups, such as fuse
(fuselage), wing, fin, stab (stabilizer),
and hardware.
BUILD THE TAIL
SURFACES
BUILD THE HORIZONTAL
STABILIZER
❏ 1. Work on a flat surface over the plans
covered with waxed paper. Refer to the plans to
identify the parts and their locations.
❏ 2. Punch out both sets of the die-cut 3/32"
balsa ribs S-1 through S-6. There is a jig tab on
the bottom edge of each of these ribs. If any of
these break off, carefully glue them back on with
thin CA. Lightly sand any imperfections. You
may need to finish cutting the notch in the
forward portion of S-1 for the Stab Joiner (SJ)
with a knife. Use a pen to mark the extensions
of the bottom edge of the ribs across the fore
and aft ends of the jig tabs. These marks will
help when you trim off the jig tabs later.
❏ 3. The stab Trailing Edges (S) are die-cut
from 1/4" balsa. Since some crushing may occur
when die-cutting wood of this thickness, they
are supplied slightly long and can be trimmed.
True up the ends of these pieces with
sandpaper. Also true up the top and bottom
edges of these pieces with a T-bar.
❏ 4. Cut the stab and fin Leading Edges (LE's)
to length from the 1/4" x 30" tapered balsa stock.
Cut these two pieces about 1/4" longer than the
length shown on the plans for the stab LE.
HINT: Bevel the front edge of the stab and fin ribs
to match the sweep angle of the LE stock. This
will give you a better fit and a stronger glue joint.
❏ ❏ 5. Starting with the r ight half of the stab,
pin ribs S-2 and S-5 to the building board over
their locations on the plans.
❏ ❏ 6. Center the LE on the front edge of ribs
S-2 and S-5. Glue it in place with CA.
❏ ❏ 7. Center the TE on the back edge of ribs
S-2 and S-5. Glue it in place with CA.
❏ ❏ 8. Glue ribs S-3, S-4 and S-6 in their
places. All of the jig tabs should rest on the
work surface.
❏ 9. Sand the LE and TE near the stab center
so they match the endpoints shown on
the plans.
8
9
❑ 10. Repeat steps 5 through 8 to build the left
half of the stab. NOTE: The left half LE and TE
must be sanded for an exact fit with the right
side. They should be glued together along the
center line when you repeat step #6.
❏ 11. Trim the 3/8" x 9/16" x 4-1/32" hard balsa
stab TE Joiner, if necessary, to fit between the
S-2 ribs. Securely glue it to the stab TE and
the S-2 ribs.
❏ 12. Check the fit of the die-cut 1/8" plywood
Stab Joiner (SJ) and adjust if required for a
good fit with the stab LE. Place the Stab Joiner
into the slots in the two S-1 ribs and work the
whole assembly into position. Make sure all
parts are properly aligned and the S-1 rib jig
tabs contact the work surface. Glue in the Stab
Joiner and the S-1 ribs.
❏ 13. Cut two 1/4" wide cross-grain strips from
a 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa wing sheet. Glue these
strips between the two S-1 ribs flush with their
top edges. These strips will reinforce the stab
skins where they join at the center and also
strengthen the stab.
❏ 14. Use CA+ to reinforce any glue joints that
don't look strong.
❏ 15. Trim and sand the tip ends of the LE and
TE to match the plans.
❏ 16. Carefully remove the stab from the
building board. Try not to damage the jig tabs as
they will be needed until after the top of the stab
is sheeted.
❏ 17. Use a razor plane and a sanding block to
shape the top surface of the LE (particularly
toward the tip) until it's even with the ribs. Plane
and sand the TE, if required, to smoothly blend
with the ribs.
TIPS FOR MAKING WING AND
STAB SKINS
A. Wherever practical, pre-join the balsa sheets
to make a "skin" before attaching them to the
structure.
B. Many modelers like to sort the wood so they
can put the best wood with the most even grain
structure on the top of the wing and stab.
C. Make your skin larger than needed to allow
for misalignment. On a large surface like the
wing, 3/8" extra is suggested.
D. To make skins, the following steps
are suggested:
1. Tr ue up the edges of the sheets with
a metal straightedge and a sharp knife or a "TBar" sanding block.
2. Test fit the sheets together to make
sure they match well.
3. Glue the sheets together with thin CA
over a flat surface covered with waxed paper. A
quick wipe of the joint with a fresh paper towel
will remove excess glue and make sanding
easier. Mark the poorest surface that you
think should be the inside of the sheet
with an "I".
4. Place the skin on a large, flat surface
and sand it with a large, flat sanding block and
fresh, sharp 220 paper. Use light pressure and a
brisk circular motion.
5. Trim the perimeter of the sheet to
even things out.
❏ 18. Make four stab skins from three 1/16" x
3" x 30" balsa sheets. See the sketch for the
proper layout on the wood. Refer to the plans for
the exact shapes and sizes, but remember to
make the skins slightly oversize.
❏ 19. Pin the stab str ucture onto your building
surface using pins at the tips and diagonally
under the LE & TE.
Don't hide the pins under
the skin.
Test fit the skins over the structure.
Make sure the skins meet flush at the center.
Adjust them if necessary.
❏ 20. Apply an even bead of medium or thick
CA to the upward facing edges of the structure.
Place a skin in its proper position and press it
firmly down until the glue has set. Repeat this
step for the other top skin.
❏ 21. Remove the stab from the building
board. Trim off the jig tabs with a sharp knife.
Trim and blend the LE and TE to the ribs as
you did before. Check all glue joints, adding
glue as necessary.
❏ 22. Cut two 1/4" wide cross-grain strips from
1/16" x 3" balsa. (You probably have some left
over balsa from the stab sheeting operation)
Glue these strips between the two S-1 ribs flush
with their bottom edges as you did in step #13.
❏ 23. It's important to get a good glue bond
between the stab structure and the bottom stab
skins. Apply a heavy bead of medium or thick
CA to all of the
upward facing
edges of one side
of the stab structure. Place a skin on the
structure and hold it in place with your hands
until the glue sets. Repeat this for the other
bottom skin. Be careful not to bend or twist
the stab during this step.
❏ 24. True up the ends of the stab with a
sanding block. IMPORTANT: Round the LE of
the stab to match the cross section on the plan.
❏ 25. Glue the 5/8" thick shaped balsa Stab
Tips in position. Use a razor plane and a
sanding block to shape them to an airfoil that
matches the stab. You may contour the tips to
their final shape now, or wait until the model is
nearer completion.
BUILD THE FIN
❏ 1. Punch out the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs V-1
through V-4. Be sure to preserve their jig tabs.
❏ 2. Cut an 8" length of the tapered 1/4" balsa
stabilizer LE stock and sand bevels on each end
to match the plans exactly as the length of the
LE sets the angle of the fin. Notice that the fin
LE protrudes through the stab and fits into a
notch on top of F-8.
❏ 3. Punch out the die-cut 1/4" balsa fin TE
and lightly sand the edges to touch them up.
❏ 4. Pin ribs V-1 and V-4 to the building board
over their proper locations. Center the LE on the
front of the ribs and glue it in place. Center the Fin
TE on the aft edge of the ribs and glue it in place.
10
Two Sheets
Stab Fwd
One Sheet
Fin Tips
Fin Fwd
Stab Aft
❏ 5. Put ribs V-2 and V-3 into their places and
glue them to the LE and TE. Remember, all jig
tabs should contact the work surface.
❏ 6. Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa Fin Gusset
into the corner of V-4 and the Trailing Edge.
❏ 7. Apply extra CA+ glue to any joints that do
not appear to be well glued.
❏ 8. Blend the LE to match the ribs on the
upward facing (left) fin side. Sand the TE, if
necessary, to blend smoothly with the ribs.
❏ 9. Make a skin for each side of the fin using
the 1/16" balsa sheet left over from the stab
skins. Make the skin so it overhangs past V-1
about 5/8"; this will allow fitting to the stab later.
With the structure flat on the table, glue on the
left skin.
❏ 10. Remove the fin from the building board
and trim off the jig tabs. Blend the LE and TE to
the ribs on the right side of the fin.
❏ 11. Use medium or thick CA to glue on the
right skin. Be sure to get a good bond between
the ribs and the skin.
❏ 12. True up the edges of the fin sheeting with
a sanding block. Shape the LE to match the
cross section on the plans.
❏ 13. Glue the shaped 3/4" balsa fin tip to the
top of the fin. Use a razor plane and a sanding
block to do the initial shaping of the tip. Final
shaping should be done later, with the fin taped
to the rudder.
BUILD THE ELEVATORS
NOTE: Build both elevators using
the following steps
❏ ❏ 1. Place the die-cut 3/32" balsa Elevator
Bases (EB) on the plans and mark "Rib"
locations on both sides using the "tick" marks on
the plans.
❏ ❏ 2. Draw a centerline on both sides of the
die-cut 1/4" balsa Elevator LE. Draw two
parallel lines 1/16" away from the centerline on
the aft side.
❏ ❏ 3. Hold the Elevator Base centered
between the lines on the Elevator LE. The
narrow end of the LE is positioned at the
elevator tip . Use CA to glue the Base to the LE.
❏ ❏ 4. Cut "ribs" from the 3/32" x 3/8" x 36"
balsa sticks and glue them onto both sides of
the elevators at the locations you previously marked.
❏ ❏ 5. Glue a 5/16" x 7/16" x 1-3/4" balsa
Elevator Root Block to each side of both
Elevator Bases.
❏ ❏ 6. Glue a 5/16" x 1/2" x 1-1/2" balsa
Elevator Tip Block to each side of both
Elevator Bases.
11
❏ ❏ 7. Center a die-cut 1/4" balsa Counter-
balance on the LE of the elevator tip as shown
on the plans, then glue it in place. Shape the
front of the block to a radius. Allow
approximately 1/16" clearance on the two
matching edges between the counterbalance
and the notch in the stab.
❏ 8. Refer to the photos and the cross sections
on the plans to obtain the shape of the elevator
tips, roots, and ribs. Use a razor plane and
sanding block to "rough in" the shape of the
blocks and ribs. Trial fit the elevators to the stab
for final shaping.
❏ 9. Glue a die-cut 1/8" balsa elevator Torque
Rod Doubler to both sides of the Elevator
Bases as shown on plans and below.
❏ 10. Tape the elevators to the stabilizer. Hold
the bent 1/8" Elevator Joiner Wire and Horn
up to the elevator and mark the location of the
holes (see the plans for the joiner location).
❏ 11. Remove the elevators from the stabilizer.
Drill 1/8" holes in the elevators for the Joiner
wire. Make slots inboard of the holes to allow
the wire to be inset into the elevators. Sand the
Elevator LE to a "V" shape to allow elevator
travel. (See the cross-section on the stab) Test
fit the joiner wire into the elevators. Check to
see that the elevators align with each other
properly. Make adjustments if required.
❏ 12. Mark the location of the Elevator
Control Horn on the TE of the Stab. Remove a
small amount of balsa as shown to allow
clearance for the horn to move freely in both
directions.
BUILD THE RUDDER
❏
1. Glue the two die-cut 3/16" balsa Rudder
LE's together with CA+. Even up the edges with
a sanding block, but save any tapering for later.
❏ 2. Draw centerlines on both forward and aft
surfaces of the LE. Draw two parallel lines 1/16"
away from each side of the centerline on the aft
side that will mate with the Rudder Base.
❏ 3. Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa FWD
Rudder Base to the die-cut 3/32" balsa AFT
Rudder Base.
❏ 4. Align the Rudder Base over the plans and
mark the "Rib" locations on both sides of the
Rudder Base.
❏ 5. Hold the Rudder Base centered, at a 90
degree angle, to the rudder LE. Apply CA to
the joint.
❏ 6. Center and glue the 1/4" x 3/4" x 1-3/8"
balsa stick Balance Tab LE at the top of the
Rudder Base.
❏ 7. Glue a 1/4" x 1/2" x 2-1/2" balsa stick
Rudder Tip to both sides of the top of the
Rudder Base as shown on the plans.
12
❏ 8. Glue two 5/8" shaped balsa Rudder
Bottoms flush with the bottom edge of both
sides of the Rudder Base.
❏ 9. Glue a 1/2" x 5/8" x 1-13/16" balsa Rudder
Horn and Tail Wheel Block to both sides of the
rudder at the location shown on the plans.
❏ 10. Cut "ribs" from the 3/32" x 5/8" x 36"
balsa sticks and glue them to both sides of the
rudder at the locations you previously marked.
❏ 12. Refer to the photos and the cross
sections on the plans to obtain the shape of the
rudder. Use a razor plane and sanding block to
"rough in" the shape of the rudder. Final
shaping, fitting, and beveling should be done
after the fin is glued onto the fuselage, but you
may wish to tape the rudder to the fin at this
point to blend the upper ends of both.
BUILD THE WING
NOTE: The wing panels are built
"UPSIDE-DOWN" on the plans. The
jig tabs are attached to what is, in
the end, the TOP surface of the
wing. Since it is the standard
convention to show the Top View of
the wing, and the wing panels are
built upside-down, the LEFT wing
panel is built over the RIGHT Wing
Top View and vice-versa. This does
not present any problems; just be
sure to build a left and a right wing.
PREPARATION
❏
1. Locate the four 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" hard balsa
Wing Spars, then cut them to 25-1/2" each.
Save the cut-off ends for the flap servo mounts.
❏ 2. Punch out all the die-cut 3/32" balsa wing
Ribs and 1/8" ply Doublers. Smooth out any
imperfections with sandpaper. Be sure to keep
the jig tabs attached to the ribs.
❏ 3. Ribs W-2 through W-9 have punch
marks just aft of the spar. Drill a 3/16" hole at
each of these marks for future installation of
the aileron pushrods.
❏ 4. Drill 1/8" holes through the punch marks in
the two die-cut 1/8" plywood Aileron Bellcrank
Plates (AB). Assemble the bellcrank parts as
shown in the sketch. Be sure to put a drop of 6minute epoxy on the 4-40 nut and threads to
prevent the bellcrank from vibrating loose.
NOTE: If you haven't already done
so, now is the time to decide which
type of landing gear configuration
you will be using. Fixed or
Retractable?
❏ 5. (Skip this step if installing retracts) If you
chose to build your AT-6 with fixed gear, locate
wing ribs W-1, W-2, W-4, W-5, and plywood
doublers 1B, 2F, 4F, 5F. Refer to the left half of
the center section plans for the proper location of
each doubler, then use CA+ to glue the ribs and
doublers together. Be sure to make a LEFT and
a RIGHT of each rib assembly. Remove the
shaded area with a hobby knife or razor saw to
allow for the gear rails .
13
4-40 x 3/4" BOLT
#4 WASHER
NYLON BELLCRANK
BRASS
BUSHING
PLYWOOD
4-40 NUT
❏ 6. (Skip this step if installing fixed gear) If you
chose to build your AT-6 with retractable gear,
locate wing ribs W-1, W-4, W-5, and plywood
doublers 1B, 4R, 5R. Refer to the right half of
the center section plans for the proper location
of each doubler, then use CA+ to glue the ribs
and doublers together. Be sure to make a left
and a right of each rib assembly. Remove the
shaded area with a hobby knife or razor saw to
allow for the gear rails.
NOTE: For retracts, rib W-2 does not
require a doubler.
❏ 7. Finish cutting the slot in the aft por tion of
both W-1 ribs to allow for later insertion of the
Wing Bolt Plate.
Okay, the prep work is behind you, so now that
the dull stuff is done, let's build the outer wing
panels so you'll have something to show when
your friends drop in to check on your progress!
BUILD OUTER WING PANELS
❏
1. Place a wing panel plan on your building
board and cover it with waxed paper.
Cutting the
wing panel sections apart makes handling easier.
❏ ❏ 2. Pin a Spar to the building board at
three or four locations using the cross-pinning
technique shown in the sketch.
❏ ❏ 3. Position the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs
W-6 through W-15 on the spar. These should be
vertical and aligned over their appropriate
locations as indicated on the plans.
The jig tabs
located near the aft end of the ribs should all
contact the work surface.
Glue W-7 through W-
15 to the spar. Pin W-6 in place for the time being.
❏ ❏ 4. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" balsa OUTER
TE AT FLAP and TE AT AILERON to the aft
edges of ribs W-6 through W-10 and W-11
through W-15 respectively. The upward facing
edges of the ribs and the top surface of the
trailing edges should be even, and all of the jig
tabs should touch the work surface. NOTE: Both
Trailing Edges taper slightly from one end to the
other. The narrow ends should be located at W-
10 and W-15.
❏ ❏ 5. Sight down the TE of the wing from the
root end; make sure all the ribs are aligned. Use
paper to shim under the jig tabs of any ribs that are
low. When everything looks level, glue the TE's in
place. Once again, don't glue the W-6 rib.
❏ ❏ 6. Press the Spar into the wing notches
and check for a flush fit at each rib. When
satisfied, glue ribs W-7 through W-15 in place.
❏ ❏ 7. Cut a 4" length from each of the two
shaped balsa Leading Edges.
These short
pieces will be used when building the center
wing panel.
Center one of the long LE's
vertically on the front edge of the ribs. Glue it to
ribs W-7 through W-15.
NOTE: Do steps 8 and 9 for a wing
without
operational flaps. Skip the next two steps if
you are building a wing with operating flaps.
❏ ❏ 8. Cut one of the tapered 1/2" x 24" balsa
Flap TE in half, to make two 12" lengths. Note:
This Flap TE is not used if you build operating flaps .
14
❏ ❏ 9. Glue the Flap TE to r ibs W-7 through
W-10. The Flap TE should be centered on the
aft edges of the ribs and should be (as shown in
the cross-section on the plans) aligned with the
top and bottom of the ribs. Make sure all the jig
tabs are contacting the table. A metal
straightedge can be placed on the structure over
the jig tabs to hold them down evenly.
Now you'll see why we didn't want you to glue
W-6 in place earlier.
❏ ❏ 10. Draw a line through the two punch
marks on the ply Dihedral Gauge. With the
arrow on the gauge pointing up, position the
gauge on the plan so the line you drew is on the
dashed reference line printed on the plan.
Move the gauge along the reference line and
adjust the angle of W-6 until it's flush with the
gauge from the LE to the TE. After double (
even
triple
) checking that the angle is perfect, glue
W-6 in place at all points of contact.
❏ ❏ 11. Cut the two balsa 1/4" x 3/8" spar cut-
offs to 3-1/8" long. Glue two of these sticks into
the notches in ribs W-6 and W -7. These will act as
supports for the flap servo hatch. If you don't plan
on using flaps, fill the notches with scrap balsa (or
install the rails ev en if y ou won't use them).
❏ ❏ 12. Glue the Aileron Bellcrank assembly
into the slots in ribs W-10 and W-11. The
bellcrank should face away from the building
board as shown in the photo.
❏ ❏ 13. Locate the 3/8" x 1/2" x 15" balsa
Flap & Aileron Hinge Block. Cut six 1" lengths
to use as aileron hinge blocks (save the balance
for use as flap hinge blocks). Glue 3 blocks
where shown on the plans; save the other 3 for
use on the second wing panel.
❏ ❏ 14. Tr im the 1/16" x 2-3/4 x 1-11/16"
balsa Shear Webs to fit behind the spar
between ribs W-7 through W-15. Do not install
a shear web between W-6 and W-7. Glue them
in place with CA+. Wick CA between all the
joints of the shear webs and the spars to make
sure they are well bonded. It's not important to
glue the shear webs to the ribs.
If you are building your wing without operational
flaps you can take a short break to admire your
handiwork. When fully revived, clean the
sawdust off your bench, swap the plan sheets,
and get busy building the other outer wing
frame. On the other hand, if you are installing
operational flaps, you still have some more work
to do, so get back to it. You can rest later.
PREPARE THE WING P ANELS FOR
THE FLAPS
Do the following steps if you are building
operational flaps.
❏ ❏ 1. Remove the wing panel from the
building board. Use a T-bar with fresh 220 grit
sandpaper to blend away any unevenness from
the structure. Pay special attention to the trailing
edge of the wing. It's important to make the
trailing edge as straight as possible so the split
flaps will fit well.
15
❏ ❏ 2. Draw a centerline down both sides of a
1/16" x 1" x 12" plywood TE Strip.
❏ ❏ 3. Use a T-bar with sharp 150 or 220 grit
sandpaper to bevel the aft 3/8" of the TE Strip
down roughly 1/32".
❏ ❏ 4. Locate the two 3/32" x5/8” x 12" balsa
TE Jig Strips. Check the straightness of these
Jig Strips by holding them on edge on a flat
surface. True them up with a knife and a metal
straightedge if required.
❏ ❏ 5. Place the ply TE Strip with beveled side
down on a very flat table. Glue a TE Jig to the
TE Strip on the centerline. The Jig will keep the
TE straight until the wing is complete. Do not
use excessive glue because it will have to be
sanded off later.
❏ ❏ 6. Glue the TE Strip assembly to the wing
structure with the beveled side up. The aft end
of ribs W-6 through W-10 should align with the
centerline you drew on the TE Strip. Do not
force the ribs to touch the TE Strip. This will
cause the TE to warp when you remove the Jig
later; just fill any slight gaps with glue. NOTE:
The TE Jig is designed to keep the ply TE Strip
from warping.
It's not meant to touch the work
surface so don't be alarmed when it doesn't.
❏ ❏ 7. Use a razor saw and a hobby knife to
trim off the bottom half of r ibs W-6 through W-10.
The bottom side is the side opposite the jig tabs.
❏ ❏ 8. Trim the ends of the TE Strip flush with
the W-6 and W-10 ribs.
❏ ❏ 9. Use a T-bar sander to even up the ribs
inside the flap bay.
❏ ❏ 10. Cut the remainder of the 3/8" x 1/2" x
15" stick (that you used to make the aileron
hinge blocks) into ten 3/4" pieces. Fit and glue
three of these pieces where shown on the wing
plan. Save the remaining blocks for use on the
other two wing panels. Mark the location of the
hinge blocks on the outside of the TE spar to
help you find them later.
Repeat the previous instructions to build the
other outer wing panel.
Congratulations! Even though building
operational flaps requires a little bit of patience
and a lot of elbow grease, you will be rewarded
by more scale appearance and slower landings
than the less ambitious modeler. If that isn't
enough, they just look great during slow fly-bys.
BUILD THE CENTER SECTION
❏ 1. Cover the Center Wing Panel plan with
waxed paper, then pin a 1/4" x 3/8" x 18" balsa
Spar in position over it.
❏ 2. Locate both of the W-1 Rib Assemblies
(if the ply doublers are not glued in place yet,
do it now)
and position them on the spar with
the jig tabs pointing down. Don't glue the ribs
in place yet.
16
3/8"
1/32"
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