Top Flite A0120 INSTRUCTION BOOK
WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both
material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite's liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability
shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final userassembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, he is
advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
Top Flite Models
P.O. Box 721
Urbana, IL 61801
Technical Assistance - Call (217)398-8970
ENTIRE CONTENTS ©COPYRIGHT 2001 P406P03 V2.0
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
TM
METRIC CONVERSION CHART..............2
INTRODUCTION.......................................3
Precautions ............................................3
DIE PATTERNS.......................................4,5
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE...............6
Engine and Mount Selection ..................6
Retracts..................................................6
Wheel Selection .....................................6
Flaps.......................................................6
Drop Tank...............................................6
Static Display Propeller..........................6
Supplies and Tools .................................7
Other Items Required.............................7
Common Abbreviations..........................7
Types of Wood........................................7
TIPS FOR COMPETITION-
MINDED MODELERS ..............................7
Deviations from scale.............................7
Scale Documentation.............................8
Scale Retracts and Doors ......................8
GET READY TO BUILD............................8
Build the Horizontal Stabilizer ................8
Build the Fin ..........................................11
Build the Elevators.................................12
Build the Rudder....................................13
BUILD THE WING ...................................15
Install the Center Rib (W-1)...................18
Preparing for the Flaps..........................19
Join the Wing Panels.............................21
Fixed Landing Gear Assembly..............22
Mount the Landing Gear........................23
Sheet the Bottom of the Wing ...............24
Sheet the Top of the Wing.....................25
Wing Completion...................................26
Build the Flaps.......................................27
Build the Ailerons ..................................28
BUILD THE FUSELAGE..........................29
Build the Fuselage Top..........................32
Mount the Wing to the Fuselage ...........36
Attach the Stab and Fin.........................37
Build Fuselage Bottom..........................37
Build Top Cowling..................................38
Build the Wing Fillet...............................39
Build the Wing Belly Pan.......................41
Fit the Flaps...........................................41
Build the Cowl .......................................42
Build the Landing Gear Pods.................44
Fuel Proofing.........................................45
Balance the Airplane Laterally...............45
Retracts.................................................45
FINISHING...............................................45
Colors....................................................46
Finishing Techniques.............................46
Apply the Decals ...................................48
Draw on the Panel Lines .......................48
Final Clear Coat ....................................49
Exhaust Stacks......................................49
Hinging..................................................49
Final Engine Installation........................49
Final Control Hardware Hookup............50
Cockpit Finishing...................................51
Install Receiver, Switch, and Battery.....52
Balance Your Model...............................52
Final Hookups and Checks ...................53
PREFLIGHT.............................................53
AMA SAFETY CODE ..............................54
FLYING ....................................................54
2-VIEW DRAWING ..................................56
METRIC CONVERSIONS
In. x25.4 =mm (conversion factor)
1/64” = .4 mm
1/32” = .8 mm
1/16” = 1.6 mm
3/32” = 2.4 mm
1/8” = 3.2 mm
5/32” = 4 mm
3/16” = 4.8 mm
1/4” = 6.4 mm
3/8” = 9.5 mm
1/2” = 12.7 mm
5/8” = 15.9 mm
3/4” = 19 mm
1” = 25.4 mm
2” = 50.8 mm
3” = 76.2 mm
6” = 152.4 mm
12” = 304.8 mm
15” = 381 mm
18” = 457.2 mm
21” = 533.4 mm
24” = 609.6 mm
30” = 762 mm
36” = 914.4 mm
- 2 -
T
ABLE OF CONTENTS
- 3 -
INTR
ODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite
®
GOLD EDITION™
P-40E Warhawk.
The Top Flite P-40E is an excellent sport scale
model that is just as “at home” sport flying as it is in
competition. Its exact scale outline allows you to
detail it out and take it into serious competition. Its
modern construction and refined aerodynamics,
incorporating features such as built-in washout and
computer designed airfoils that progressively change
from root to tip, give you a plane that will build
straighter and fly better than warbirds of the past.
The Gold Edition Warhawk is approximately 1/7th
scale. The exact scale ratio is 1:6.9. The trim
scheme used on the model pictured on the box
duplicates that used by the legendary Flying
Tigers. Three large sheets of decals are included
to help you duplicate this scheme. You can cover
your P-40 with olive drab, tan, and grey
MonoKote®, but, to get truly authentic results, you
must paint the model. Helpful information on
painting can be found in the
Finishing Section
.
The Top Flite Warhawk makes an excellent
scale competition aircraft. The front end of this
model has been specially engineered to allow you
to completely hide most engines in the
recommended range. The large cowling will even
completely hide an O.S. 1.20 Surpass. The
cowling is designed to use the scale cooling air
entrance and exit to cool your model engine.
Engines such as the O.S. .61 SF (2c) and O.S.
1.20 Surpass (4c) have been flown in the Warhawk
and required no additional cooling. A special 2cycle muffler with headers to fit several of the
recommended engines has been specifically
designed for and tested in the P-40. This muffler
provides good sound reduction while fitting entirely
inside the cowling. More information on the
recommended engines and related items can be
found in the
Engine and Mount Selection
Section
.
Please inspect all parts carefully before
starting to build! If any parts are missing,
broken or defective, or if you have any
questions about building or flying this model,
please call us at (217) 398-8970 and we’ll be
glad to help. If you are calling for replacement
parts, please look up the part numbers and the
kit identification number (stamped on the end
of the carton) and have them ready when
calling.
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must build the plane according to the
plans and instructions. Do not alter or modify
the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or
unflyable model. In a few cases the plans and
instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In
those instances you should assume the plans and
written instructions are correct.
2. You must take time to build straight, true, and
strong.
3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first
class condition, the correctly sized engine and
correct components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.)
throughout your building process.
4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly
on the ground and in the air.
5. You must test the operation of the model before
the first and each successive flight to insure that all
equipment is operating, and you must make certain
that the model has remained structurally sound.
Be sure to check external nylon clevises often and
replace if they show signs of wear.
6. You must fly the model only with the
competent help of a well experienced R/C pilot if
you are not already an experienced R/C pilot at
this time.
WARNING! THIS IS NO
T A TOY!
The model you will build from this kit is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily
harm and property damage. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE -
to build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components to test fly the model and
fly it ONLY with experienced, competent help in accordance with all safety standards
as set down in the Academy on Model Aeronautics Safety Code. It is suggested that
you join the AMA to become properly insured before you attempt to fly the model. IF
YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR LOCAL HOBBY
SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TO FIND AN
EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 E. Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302 (800)435-9262
DIE-CUT PATTERNS
- 4 -
DIE-CUT PATTERNS
- 5 -
Remember: Take your time and follow
directions to end up with a well-built model that
is straight and true.
DECISIONS Y
OU MUST
MAKE EARL
Y IN THE
BUILDING SEQUENCE
ENGINE AND MOUNT SELECTION
The recommended engine size range is as
follows:
.60 to .91 cu. in. 2-cycle
.90 to .120 cu. in. 4-cycle
The Warhawk will fly well with any of the
recommended engines. The 4-Cycle engines and
most .90 2-Cycle engines will turn a larger prop at
lower RPM’s. This is often desirable for scale
realism. Many .60 2-Cycle engines produce about
as much horsepower as the popular .90 2-Cycle
engines and will fly the Warhawk fine. If you use a
.60 2-Cycle, a Schnuerle ported engine is
preferred. The prototype P-40 with all of the
options, including flaps, retracts, drop tank, paint
etc., has been flown with an O.S. .61 SF. This
combination works fine and gives very realistic
scale power. Most modelers are accustomed to a
larger power reserve and would probably prefer
more power if they load up their P-40 with all of the
extras.
Even though the P-40 is designed to house the
engine inverted, a modeler desiring a more
utilitarian setup can mount his engine with the
cylinder head sticking out the right side of the
model. The same engine centerline should be
used.
The mount selection is up to you. If you use an
O.S. 1.20 4-cycle, the plans show (and the firewall
is spaced for) a J-tec No. JT-122 SV (JTEG8450).
The included mount will hold many 2-Cycle
engines such as the O.S. .61 SF.
A special muffler and header is available that
will fit inside your cowling. It is primarily designed
for 2-cycle engines mounted inverted.
*Header for O.S. .61SF (TOPQ7920)
*Header for SuperTigre S61K & S75K
(TOPQ7925)
*Muffler for above (TOPQ7915)
RETRACTS
The choice whether or not to use fixed gear or
retracts is up to you. Retracts offer good looks and
great flight realism with the added expense and
complication. The model is designed to use the
Robart #615 (ROBQ1815) rotating retracts, as
these offer the easiest installation and most
reliable operation. More information on retracts is
found in the “Tips for Competition Minded
Modelers” section and in the construction
sequence. For item numbers, see "Other Items
Required", page 7.
WHEEL SELECTION
The true scale tire size is 4-5/8”. The
recommended range of tire sizes is 3-1/4” to 4”.
The 4” wheels fit comfortably into the wing when
retracted. If you use fixed gear, you may choose
to use the smaller tires to reduce drag in the air.
Robart 4" (ROBQ1537) main wheels are very close
to scale appearance for a P-40. A 1-1/4” tail wheel
is scale and recommended.
FLAPS
This model is designed to incorporate split
flaps that are very scale. They are not difficult to
assemble, but they do require good craftsmanship
if they are to fit well. They add a good deal to the
model’s flight characteristics and scale appeal
while causing no bad effects. No trim correction of
any kind is needed when they are used with the
recommended throws. The flaps add drag and lift
to the model on landing approaches, which gives
the plane a very steady, locked-in feel. The flaps
require one channel, a Y-harness, and two
standard or mini servos. They are highly
recommended for those who wish to install them.
More information on the use of the flaps may be
found in the
Flying Section
.
DROP TANK
P-40s in combat used drop tanks most of the
time. Top Flite has made a correctly sized,
vacuum-formed drop tank available for your
warbird. The tank comes with a release
mechanism and is easy to assemble and install.
The drop tank will add a great deal of realism to
your Warhawk. Part #TOPQ7900
STATIC DISPLAY PROPELLER
When displaying your model, nothing adds
more realism than a good looking scale propeller.
Top Flite has a 3-bladed scale propeller available
for your P-40. Remember, this propeller is for
static display only; do not attempt to run the engine
with it mounted. Part # TOPQ7907
- 6 -
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can
provide you with a top quality kit and great
instructions, but ultimately the quality and
flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it. Therefore, we cannot in any
way guarantee the performance of your
completed model, and no representations are
expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.
SUGGESTED SUPPLIES AND TOOLS
We recommend only Top Flite Supreme™
glues for the assembly of our models.
❑
2 oz. CA [thin] (TOPR1003)
❑
2 oz. CA+ [thick] (TOPR1008)
❑
6-Minute Epoxy (TOPR1040)
❑
30-Minute Epoxy (TOPR1043)
❑
Hand or Electric Drill
❑
Drill Bits: 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”, 13/64”,
1/4”, 17/64”
❑
Sealing Iron (Top Flite) (TOPR2100)
❑
Heat Gun (Top Flite) (TOPR2000)
❑
Hobby Saw (X-acto Razor Saw)
❑
X-acto Knife, #11 Blades
❑
Pliers
❑
Screw Drivers
❑
T-Pins
❑
String
❑
Straightedge with length graduations
❑
Masking Tape (Required for construction)
❑
Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*
❑
T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
❑
Waxed Paper
❑
Lightweight Balsa Filler such as Hobbico
®
HobbyLite™ (HCAR3400)
❑
1/4-20 Tap, Tap Wrench
❑
Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
❑
Dremel Moto Tool or similar (optional)
❑
Razor Plane
*NOTE: On our workbench, we have
four 11” T-Bar sanders, equipped with
#50, #80, #150 and #220-grit sandpaper.
This setup is all that is required for
almost any sanding task. Sanding
blocks can be made from balsa for
sanding hard to reach spots. We also
keep some #320-grit wet-or-dry
sandpaper handy for finish sanding
before covering.
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN
THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
deg. = Degrees
Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left
Ply = Plywood
Rt = Right
Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
" = Inches
TYPES OF WOOD
TIPS FOR COMPETITION-
MINDED MODELERS
DEVIATIONS FROM SCALE
The rudder hinge line has been simplified to
allow you to use conventional model hinging
techniques. The elevator hinge line near the tip of
the stab was changed slightly to simplify the
elevator shape.
If you plan to compete with the trim scheme
shown on the box, here are a few things to
consider:
The full size P-40 that was duplicated is a
P-40E which was restored and is still in existence.
It matches the Koku Fan 3-view very well, with a
few exceptions.
- 7 -
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
❑
Four to seven channel radio with 4 to 8
servos.
❑
Engine (see page 6)
❑
Propellers (see engine instructions for
recommended sizes).
❑
Pilot figure (1/7thor 2” scale
recommended)
❑
4” P-40 Top Flite spinner
#TOPQ5401 red, #TOPQ5400 white
❑
Fuel Tank (Most 10 to 16 oz. tanks will fit)
❑
3-1/4” to 4” Main Wheels (2) (see page 6)
❑
1-1/4” Tail wheel
❑
3/16” Wheel Collars (4 for fixed gear main
wheels)
❑
3/32” Wheel Collars (2 for tail wheel)
❑
Top Flite Super MonoKote (2 rolls) Clear
(see
Finishing Section
)
❑
Paint (see
Finishing Section
)
❑
Silicone Fuel Tubing
❑
Latex Foam Rubber Padding (1/4” thick)
Optional:
❑
Drop Tank...............TOPQ7900
❑
Static Prop..............TOPQ7907
❑
Retracts ..................Robart #615
❑
Air Control Kit .........Robart #188
❑
Robostruts ..............Robart #650
❑
Engine Mount .........(see page 6)
The most serious deviation is in the rear
portion of the canopy. The rear window recesses
(White ABS plastic in the model kit) were removed
from the full scale aircraft. This is presumably to
allow for a passenger. If you plan to enter serious
competition, you will probably want to modify your
kit to eliminate these panels. We chose to have
the kit build as a stock P-40E.
The P-40 was equipped with a variety of guns.
The guns in the photos differ from the ones on the
3-view. This is not a problem; just duplicate the
ones in the photos as we did on our prototypes
using 3/16” brass tubes.
Always work from the photos of the full size
aircraft and the proper 3-view drawing when
finishing your model because that is what you will
use for documentation.
SCALE RETRACTS AND DOORS
The retract landing gear pivot location shown
on the plans is correct. The stance of the model
(and strut length) shown with the gear down is
correct. Keep in mind that the Warhawk's gear,
like that in most modern aircraft, compresses
under the weight of the aircraft and extends when
the aircraft takes off. This fact means that the rigid
struts commonly used on models will not fold into
the scale locations. The normal way to deal with
this problem in models is to set up the model to
have the proper stance, and then have the wheel
retract into a position short of the scale location.
The only other reasonable way to overcome this
problem is to use oleo struts (such as Robart
Robostruts) that have springs light enough to
compress under the weight of the model and thus
function in a scale fashion.
The full scale P-40 uses landing gear doors on
the pods. We have not made these functional on
any of our models so we cannot offer any help on
implementing these.
GET READ
Y TO BUILD
NOTE: When you see "CA," use super
thin Supreme glue. When you see
"CA+," use thick Supreme glue.
❑
1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans
inside out to make them lie flat.
❑
2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do,
identify the name of each part by comparing it with
the plans and the parts list at the back of this book.
Using a felt tip or ball point pen, write the part
name or size on each piece to avoid confusion
later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on pages 4
and 5 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them
before punching out. Save all scraps. If any of
the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out, do not
force them! Instead, first cut around the parts with
a sharp hobby knife. After punching out the die-cut
parts, use your T-Bar or sanding block to lightly
sand the edges to remove any die-cutting
irregularities.
❑
3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate
them into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing,
fin and stab (stabilizer), and hardware.
BUILD THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
❑
1. Work on a flat surface over the plans
covered with waxed paper. Refer to the plans to
identify the parts and their locations.
❑
2. Punch out both sets of the die-cut 3/32”
balsa ribs S-1 to S-6. There is a jig tab on the
bottom edge of each of these ribs. If any of these
break off, carefully glue them back on with CA.
Lightly sand any imperfections. You may need to
finish cutting the notch in the forward portion of S-1
for the Stab Joiner (SJ) with a knife. Use a pen to
mark the extensions of the bottom edge of the ribs
across the fore and aft ends of the jig tabs. These
will help you when you trim off the jig tabs later.
❑
3. The stab Trailing Edges (S) are die-cut
from 1/4” balsa. Since some crushing may happen
when die-cutting wood of this thickness, they are
supplied slightly long and can be trimmed. True up
the ends of these pieces with sandpaper. Also
true up the top and bottom edges of these pieces
with a T-bar.
- 8 -
SCALE DOCUMENTATION
This model was designed using the Koku-Fan
3-view drawings as the reference for outline.
This fact makes it preferable to use those
drawings for scale documentation. The
drawings and many Warhawk photo packs are
available from:
Scale Model Research
3114 Yukon Ave
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714) 979-8058
The trim scheme shown on the box is from
photo pack #588 (54 pictures $35) -or- #588a
(16 pictures $16) +$3 S&H
❑
4. The stab and fin Leading Edges (LE’s) are
cut to length from the 1/4” x 30” tapered
balsa stock. Cut two pieces about 1/4”
longer than the length shown on the plans
for the stab LE.
HINT: Bevel the front edge of the stab
and fin ribs to match the sweep angle of
the LE stock. This will give you a better
fit and a stronger glue joint.
❑❑
5. Starting with the right half of the stab,
pin ribs S-2 and S-5 to the building board over their
locations on the plans.
❑❑
6. Center the LE vertically on the front
edge of ribs S-2 and S-5. Glue it in place with CA.
❑❑
7. Center the TE vertically on the back
edge of ribs S-2 and S-5. Glue it in place with CA.
❑❑
8. Glue ribs S-3 and S-4 in their places.
All of the jig tabs should rest on the work surface.
❑❑
9. Glue rib S-6 to the LE. Glue the die-cut
3/32” balsa TE at Balance Tab between ribs S-5
and S-6 at the location shown on the plans.
❑❑
10. Trim the LE and TE near the stab
center so they match the endpoints shown on the
plans.
❑
11. Repeat steps 5 through 10 to build the left
half of the stab. The left half of the stab is built
beside the right half and the two halves do not
touch for now.
❑
12. Trim the 3/8” x 9/16” x 4-1/2" hard balsa
stab TE Joiner, if necessary, to fit between the
S-2’s. Securely glue it to the stab TE’s and the
S-2’s using CA.
❑
13. Check the fit of the die-cut 1/8” plywood
Stab Joiner (SJ) and adjust if required for a good
- 9 -
- 10 -
fit to the stab LE’s. Place the Stab Joiner into the
slots in the two S-1’s and work the whole assembly
into position. Make sure all parts are properly
aligned and the S-1 rib jig tabs contact the work
surface. Glue in the Stab Joiner and the S-1’s
using CA.
❑
14. Cut two 1/4” wide cross grain strips off the
end of a 1/16” x 3” x 30” wing sheet. Glue these
strips between the two S-1 ribs flush with their top
edges. These strips will reinforce the stab skins
where they join at the center and strengthen the
stab.
❑
15. Use CA+ to reinforce any glue joints that
do not look strong.
❑
16. Carefully remove the stab from the
building board but try not to damage the jig tabs,
as they will be useful until after the top of the stab
is sheeted.
❑
17. Use a razor plane and a sanding block to
cut down the top surface of the LE (particularly
toward the tip) until it is even with the ribs. Sand
the TE, if required, to have a smooth transition
from the ribs.
TIPS FOR MAKING WING AND STAB
SKINS
A. Wherever practical, pre-join the balsa sheets to
make a “skin” before attaching them to the
structure.
B. Many modelers like to sort the wood so they
can put the best wood with the most even grain
structure on the top of the wing and stab.
C. Make your skin larger than needed to allow for
misalignment. On a large surface like the wing,
3/8” extra is suggested.
D. To make skins the following steps are
recommended:
1. True up the edges of the sheets with a
metal straight edge and a sharp knife or a “T-Bar”
sanding block.
2. Test fit the sheets together to make sure
they match well.
3. Glue the sheets together with CA over a flat
surface covered with waxed paper. A quick wipe
of the joint with a fresh paper towel will remove
excess glue and make sanding easier. Mark the
poorest surface that you think should be the inside
of the sheet with an “I”.
4. Place the skin on a large flat surface and
sand it with a large flat sanding block and fresh,
sharp 220 paper.
5. Trim the perimeter of the sheet to even
things out.
❑
18. Make four stab skins from three 1/16” x 3”
x 30” balsa wing sheet pieces. See the sketch for
the proper layout on the wood. Refer to the plans
for the exact shapes and sizes, but remember to
make the skins slightly oversize.
❑
19. Pin the stab structure onto the flat building
surface. Test fit the skins over the structure. Make
sure the skins meet well at the center. Adjust them
if necessary.
❑
20. Apply an even bead of CA+to the upward
facing edges of the structure. Place the skin in its
proper position and press it firmly down until the
glue has set. Take your time here as a strong joint
is critical. Repeat this step for the other top skin.
❑
21. Remove the stab from the building board.
Trim off the jig tabs with a sharp knife. Trim and
blend the LE and TE to the ribs as you did before
and sand the bottom edges of the ribs lightly with a
T-bar sander. Check all glue joints, adding glue as
necessary
❑
22. Cut two 1/4” wide strips off the end of a
1/16” x 3” x 30” wing sheet. Glue these strips
between the two S-1 ribs flush with their bottom
edges.
❑
23. It is important to get a good glue bond
between the stab structure and the bottom stab
skins. Apply a heavy bead of CA+to all of the
upward facing edges of one side of the stab
structure. Place a skin on the structure and hold it
in place with your hands until the glue sets.
Repeat this for the other bottom skin. Be careful
not to bend or twist the stab during this step.
❑
24. True up the ends of the stab with a
sanding block. Round the leading edge of the stab
to match the cross section on the plan.
❑
25. Glue on the 5/8” thick shaped balsa Stab
Tips. Use a razor plane and a sanding block to
airfoil them to match the stab. You may contour
the tip to its final shape now, or wait until the model
is nearer completion.
❑
26. Cut away the skin in the area of the
balance tabs. True up the skin with a T-bar.
❑
27. Cut away the skin at the center of the stab
at the LE and TE as shown in the photo
BUILD THE FIN
❑
1. Cut a 6-5/8” length of the tapered 1/4” balsa
stabilizer LE stock. Notice that the fin LE protrudes
through the stab.
❑
2. Glue the die-cut 3/16” balsa Fwd and Aft
Fin TE’s together with CA. Since these pieces are
thick and die-cut, they will probably require a little
touch up and blending with a sanding block.
❑
3. Punch out the die-cut 3/32” balsa ribs V-1
through V-4. Be sure to preserve their jig tabs.
- 11 -
❑
4. Pin ribs V-1 and V-4 to the building board
over their proper locations. Center the LE
vertically on the front of the ribs and glue it in
place.
❑
5. Center the Fin TE vertically on the aft edge
of the ribs and glue it in place.
❑
6. Put ribs V-2 and V-3 into their places and
glue them. Remember, all jig tabs should contact
the work surface.
❑
7. Glue the die-cut 3/32” balsa Fin Triangle
into the corner of V-4 and the Trailing Edge.
❑
8. Apply extra CA+ glue to any joints that do
not appear to be well glued.
❑
9. Blend the LE to match the ribs on the
upward facing (left) fin side. Sand the TE, if
necessary, to blend smoothly with the ribs.
❑
10. Make a skin for each side of the fin using
the 1/16” balsa sheet left over from the stab skins.
Make the skin so it overhangs past V-1 about 1/2”;
this will allow fitting to the stab later. See the
sketch on page 11.
❑
11. With the structure flat on the table, glue on
the left skin.
❑
12. Trim off the jig tabs and blend the LE and
TE to the ribs on the right side of the fin.
❑
13. Glue on the right skin. Be sure to get a
good bond between the ribs and the skin.
❑
14. True up the edges of the fin sheeting with
a sanding block. Shape the LE to match the crosssection on the plans.
❑
15. Glue the shaped 3/4” balsa Fin Tip to the
top of the fin at the location shown on the plans.
Use a razor plane and a sanding block to do the
initial shaping of the tip. Final shaping should be
done later, with the fin taped to the rudder.
BUILD THE ELEVATORS
NOTE: Build both elevators using the
following steps:
❑❑
1. Place the die-cut 3/32” balsa Elevator
Bases (EB) on the plans and mark the “Rib”
locations on both sides using the “tick” marks on
the plans.
- 12 -
❑❑
2. Draw a centerline on both surfaces of
the die-cut 1/4” balsa Elevator LE (E). Draw two
parallel lines 1/16” away from center line on the aft
side.
❑❑
3. Hold the Elevator Base centered
between the lines on the Elevator LE. Use CA to
glue the Elevator Base to the LE.
❑❑
4. Cut “ribs” from the 3/32” x 3/8” x 36”
balsa sticks and glue them onto both sides of the
elevator base at the locations you previously
marked.
❑❑
5. Glue a 3/8” thick shaped balsa
Elevator Root block to each side of the Elevator
Base.
❑❑
6. Refer to the photos on this page and the
cross-sections on the plans to obtain the shape of
the elevators. Use a razor plane and sanding
block to “rough in” the shape of the elevators. Trial
fit the elevators to the stab for final shaping.
❑❑
7. Glue a die-cut 1/8” balsa elevator
Torque Rod Doubler to both sides of the Elevator
Base as shown on the plans.
❑❑
8. Cut a pocket in the bottom of the right
elevator to match the 1/4” x 1/2” x 5/8” Elevator
Horn Block. Check the plans for the proper
location.
❑❑
9. Glue, using 6-minute epoxy, the birch
plywood Elevator Horn Block in the pocket on the
bottom side of the right elevator. Shape the
Elevator Horn Block edge to match the elevator.
❑❑
10. Place the elevator over the plans and
mark position of the 5/8” x 5/8” x 11/16” balsa
Counter Balance Block on the elevator LE. Glue
the Counter Balance Block in place. Shape the
front of the block to a full radius. Allow
approximately 1/16” clearance on both sides of the
counter balance block in the stab opening.
❑❑
11. Shape the Elevator LE to a “V”
shape to allow elevator travel. See the crosssection on the plans for the correct shape.
❑❑
12. Tape the elevators to the stabilizer.
Hold the bent 1/8” Elevator Joiner Wire up to the
elevator and mark the location of the holes (see
the plans for the joiner location).
❑❑
13. Remove the elevators from the
stabilizer. Drill 1/8” holes in the elevators for the
Joiner wire. Make slots inboard of the holes to
allow the wire to be inset into the elevators.
❑❑
14. Test fit the joiner wire into the
elevators. Check to see if the elevators align with
each other properly. Make adjustments if required.
BUILD THE RUDDER
❑
1. Glue the two die-cut 3/16” balsa Rudder
LE’s together with CA+. Even up the edges with a
sanding block, but save any tapering for later.
- 13 -
❑
2. Draw a centerline on the aft surface of the
LE. Draw two parallel lines 1/16” away on both
sides of the centerline.
❑
3. Glue the die-cut 3/32” balsa FWD Rudder
Base to the die-cut 3/32” balsa AFT Rudder Base.
❑
4. Align the Rudder Base over the plans and
mark the “Rib” locations on both sides of the
Rudder Base.
❑
5. Hold the Rudder Base centered on the
rudder LE. Apply CA to the joint.
❑❑
6. Center the 1/4” x 3/4” x 2” balsa rudder
Balance Tab LE on the top of the rudder plate.
Glue it with CA.
❑❑
7. Glue a 1/4” x 1/4” x 1-3/4 stick balsa
Rudder Tip to each side of the top of the rudder
plate.
❑❑
8. Glue a 1/2” thick shaped balsa Rudder
Base to each side of the bottom of the rudder
plate.
❑❑
9. Cut “ribs” from the 3/32” x 1/2” x 36”
balsa sticks and glue them onto both sides of the
rudder at the locations you previously marked.
❑❑
10. Glue the a 3/8” x 1/2” x 1-1/16” balsa
Rudder Reinforcement Stick to each side of the
rudder at the location shown on the plans. These
will strengthen the rudder when the slot to clear the
elevator joiner wire is cut out.
❑❑
11. Glue the 1/2 x 5/8” x 15/16” hard
balsa Rudder Horn Block to the left side of the
rudder where it is shown on the plans.
❑❑
12. Refer to the photos and the cross-
- 14 -
sections on the plans to obtain the shape of the
rudder. Use a razor plane and sanding block to
“rough in” the shape of the rudder. Final shaping
and fitting should be done after the fin is glued
onto the fuselage, but you may wish to tape the
rudder to the fin at this point to blend the upper
ends of both.
BUILD THE WING
NOTE: The wing halves are built
“UPSIDE-DOWN” on the plans. The jig
tabs are attached to what is, in the end,
the TOP surface of the wing.
NOTE: Since it is the standard
convention to show the Top View of the
wing, and the wing panels are built
upside-down, the LEFT wing panel is
built over the RIGHT Wing Top View
and vice-versa. This does not present
any problems; just be sure to build a
left and a right wing panel.
❑
1. Place the wing plan on your building board
and cover it with waxed paper (you may wish to cut
apart the wing panel sections of the plan to make
handling easier.)
❑
2. Hold the four 1/4” x 3/8” x 36” hard balsa
Spars over the wing plans. Mark the spars about
1/4” longer than they need to be. Cut off the spars
at the marks and save the scraps for the flap and
aileron servo mounts.
❑
3. Punch out all the die-cut 3/32” balsa wing
Ribs. Smooth out any imperfections with
sandpaper. Be sure to keep the jig tabs attached
to the ribs.
❑
4. Ribs W-1 through W-8 have punch marks
just aft of the spar that locate the aileron pushrods
for you. Drill a 3/16” hole at each of these marks.
❑
5. Drill 1/8” holes through the punch marks in
the two die-cut 1/8” plywood Aileron Bellcrank
Plates (AB). Assemble the bellcrank parts as
shown in the sketch. Be sure to put a drop of
6-minute epoxy on the 4-40 nut and threads to
prevent the bellcrank from vibrating loose.
❑
6. Taper one end of each of the four 1/8” x 3/8”
x 17-1/2” balsa Spar Doublers to match the spar
detail drawing on the plans. Glue a Spar Doubler
to each Spar with the root (non-tapered) end of the
doubler aligned with the root end of the spar.
NOTE: The top edge of the FWD
TRAILING EDGE AT AILERON curves
more than the bottom edge at the tip.
Since the wing is being built upside
down, the more curved edge faces
down next to the plans.
❑
7. Center the die-cut 1/4” balsa Aft Trailing
Edge at Aileron (A) on the die-cut 1/4” balsa
Forward Trailing Edge at Aileron (F) and glue
them together with CA. Be sure to make a left
and a right trailing edge. Use a sanding block to
taper the two pieces slightly as shown in the crosssectional drawing on the plan. These pieces are
die-cut slightly long to allow you to trim off any
imperfections.
❑
8. Each of the W-4 and W-3 ribs is made up of
four laminations. Refer to the plans for the proper
- 15 -
order of the parts (e.g. 4C, 4, 4B, 4D.) Use CA+ to
glue the parts together. Be sure to make a left
and a right of each rib assembly.
❑
9. Enlarge the pushrod hole in each W-8 until
it is a 5/16” x 5/16” square hole. This will provide
clearance for the clevis.
❑❑
10. Pin a Spar assembly to the building
board at three or four locations using the crosspinning technique shown in the sketch.
❑❑
11. Glue the die-cut 3/32” balsa ribs W-2
through W-12 to the spar. These should be
vertical and aligned over their appropriate locations
as indicated on the plans. The jig tabs located
near the aft end of the ribs should all contact the
work surface.
❑❑
12. Glue the aileron trailing edge
assembly to the aft edge of ribs W-8 through W-12.
The upward facing edges of the ribs and the top
surface of the trailing edge should be even, and all
of the jig tabs should touch the work surface.
NOTE: The inboard end of the aileron TE extends
approximately 5/8” inboard of rib W-8, as shown on
the plan.
❑❑
13. Test fit the die-cut 1/8” balsa TE At
Flap to the wing ribs. You will probably have to
angle the notches with your hobby knife to match
the forward sweep of the trailing edge. Place the
TE At Flap back into the wing rib structure but do
not glue yet.
❑❑
14. Sight down the TE of the wing from
the root end; make sure all the ribs are aligned at
the same height. Use paper to shim under the jig
tabs of any ribs that are low. This will put the TE’s
of the ribs in line.
❑❑
15. When the TE At Flap is fitting in place
well, with all of the rib TE’s aligned, glue it in with
CA+.
NOTE: Do steps 16 and 17 for a plane without
operating flaps. Skip these steps for a plane
with operational flaps.
❑❑
16. Cut the ends of the tapered 1/2" x 19”
balsa Flap TE about 1/8” longer than it
is shown on the plan. Note: This Flap
TE is not used if you build operating
flaps.
❑❑
17. Glue the Flap TE to ribs W-2 and W-7.
The Flap TE should be centered vertically on the
aft edges of the ribs and should be symmetrically
aligned with the top and bottom of the ribs. Make
sure all the jig tabs are contacting the work
surface. A metal straightedge can be placed on
the structure over the jig tabs to hold them down
evenly.
- 16 -
❑❑
18. Work the Upper Spar assembly into
place, making sure it fits well. Put some weights
on top of the structure to make sure it is held onto
the work surface. Fit the die-cut 1/16” plywood
Fwd and Aft LG Box Webs between W-3 and W-4
to confirm the angle of these ribs. Use CA to glue
in the top spar. Thoroughly glue the Fwd and Aft
LG Box Webs to the spars as well as W-3 and
W-4.
❑❑
19. Hold the shaped balsa Leading Edge
centered vertically on the front edge of the ribs.
Use CA to glue it in place.
❑❑
20. If you are going to use flaps, trim the
1/4” x 3/8” balsa stock left over from the wing spars
to the length shown on the plans for the Flap Bay
Rails. Glue the rails into the notches in W-5 and
W-6 with CA. If you do not plan to use flaps, you
should fill the notches with scrap wood.
❑❑
21. Glue the aileron bellcrank assembly
into the slots in ribs W-8 and W-9. The bellcrank
should face away from the building board as
shown in the photo.
❑❑
22. Glue the die-cut 1/8” balsa Corner
Brace into the corner of W-8 and the Trailing
Edge.
Note: Do steps 23 and 24 for a plane
without operating flaps. Skip them for a
plane with operating flaps.
❑❑
23. Test fit, then glue in the die-cut 3/32”
balsa Flap Tip Rib at the location shown on the
plans.
❑❑
24. Glue in the die-cut 3/32” balsa Flap
Root Rib.
- 17 -
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