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GETTING READY
SEWING BASICS
UTILITY STITCHES
CPS5XV[Y
EMBROIDERY
APPENDIX
Easy Thread Cassette System
Operation Manual
Page 2
Included Accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your retailer.
Accessories
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
z Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this machine model 500D/500, HE-120.
z The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer.
(Part code: XA4813-051)
1. 2. 3. 4.
5.
6. 7.
8.
9.
10.* 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.
20.
26. 27.
21. 22. 23. 24. 25.
28.
29. 30. 31.
*75/11 2 needles
90/14 2 needles
90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)
No. Part Name
1 Buttonhole foot "A" XC2691-051 19 Foot controller XC1154-021
2 Overcasting foot "G" XC3098-051
4 Zipper foot "I" X59370-051
5 Zigzag foot "J" (on machine) XC3021-051 21 Needle-changing tool XC4551-020
6 Blind stitch foot "R" XC4051-051 22 Operation manual XC6369-121
7 Button fitting foot "M" X59375-151 23 Quick reference guide XC6375-021
8 Seam ripper X54243-001 24 Spool cap (special) XA5752-021
9 Bobbin (4) SA156 SFB:XA5539-151 25 Embroidery foot "Q" XC3829-021
10 Needle set X58358-051 26
11 Twin needle X59296-151 27
12 Cleaning brush X59476-051 28 Grid sheet set SA527 GS4:XC4549-051
13 Eyelet punch 135793-051 29 Scissors XC1807-121
14 Screwdriver XC4237-021
15 Spool cap (large) 130012-054 500 XC3839-023
16 Spool cap (small) 130013-154
17 Extra spool pin XC3834-021 500 XC5370-024
18 Spool net XA5523-050
Part Code
U.S.A. Others U.S.A. Others
No. Part Name
Thread cassette set
20
(1 set: on machine
1set: in carton)
Embroidery set (medium)
H 10 cm X W 10 cm
(H 4 inch X W 4 inch)
Embroidery bobbin thread
(white)
30 Soft cover
31 Accessory case
SA250 TC1:XC4716-0233 Monogramming foot "N" X53840-351
SA432 EF62:XA6628-002
500D XC4530-023
500D XC5370-023
Part Code
SA-
EBT-CE:XC8375-001
EBT
Cover A
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before
using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.
Front view
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
a Thread cassette compartment cover
b Thread cassette compartment
Insert a thread cassette into the thread cassette
compartment.
c Thread cassette eject lever
Press this lever to eject the installed thread cassette.
d Thread tension dial
Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the
upper thread.
e Thread cutter
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
f Arm
Plug in the connector for the embroidery unit.
g Embroidery unit connector slot
Plug in the connector for the embroidery unit.
h Flap
Use the flap to create a table. When the sewing
machine is not being used, store the machine with the
flap folded up. Remove the flap to sew cylindrical
pieces such as sleeve cuffs.
i Sliding leg
Pull out the sliding leg during free-arm sewing.
j Operation buttons
Use the operation buttons to start the sewing machine
and raise and lower the needle. (page Cover D)
F
E
D
C
B
A
0
9
k Operation panel
Select a stitch from those that appear in the operation
panel. (page Cover E)
l Bobbin winder
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
m Bobbin thread spool pin
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto this spool
pin in order to wind the bobbin.
n Bobbin storage compartment
Store the bobbins designed specifically for this sewing
machine in this compartment.
o Bobbin winder cover
Open this cover when winding the bobbin.
p Thread guide for bobbin winding
Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding
the bobbin thread.
Cover B
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Needle and presser foot section
12
7
6
5
a Buttonhole lever
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes
and bar tacks.
b Needle bar thread hooks
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread
hooks.
c Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing
straight seams.
d Bobbin cover/Shuttle
Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin
into the shuttle.
e Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
f Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitching.
g Presser foot holder
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.
4
3
Right-side/rear view
1
2
3
4
5
a Handle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.
b Balance wheel
Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise and lower
the needle to sew one stitch.
c Embroidery card slot
Insert the embroidery card.
d Main power switch
Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine
on and off.
e Power supply jack
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power
supply jack.
f Foot controller jack
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable
into the foot controller jack.
g Air vent
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to be
exchanged. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing
machine is being used.
h Feed dog position switch
Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.
7
6
8
Memo
z Refer to Cover B, C, D or E pages while you
are learning to use your machine.
Cover C
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Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
1
2
3
5
7
6
4
a Thread cassette indicator
The indicator lights up or goes off depending on the
condition of the sewing machine.
Green: A thread cassette can be inserted.
Red: A thread cassette cannot be inserted.
Off: The sewing machine has been turned
off or a thread cassette is already
inserted.
b Thread cutter button
Press the thread cutter button after sewing is stopped to
cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details,
refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 52).
c Needle position button
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
d Start/stop button
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of
sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
refer to "Starting to sew" (page 49).
The button changes color according to the machine’s
operation mode.
Green: The machine is ready to sew or is
sewing.
Red: The machine can not sew.
Orange: The machine is winding the bobbin
thread, or the bobbin winder shaft is
moved to the right side.
e Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
the presser foot.
f Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to
sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches
are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
For details, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page 51).
g Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.
CAUTION
● Do not press the thread cutter button
after the threads have already been cut,
otherwise the needle may break, the
threads may become tangled or damage
to the machine may occur.
Note
z Do not press the thread cutter button if there
is no fabric under the presser foot or while
the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to
the machine may occur.
z When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon
thread or other special threads, use the
thread cutter on the side of the machine. For
details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page
52).
Cover D
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Operation panel
The front operation panel has an LCD (liquid crystal display) and operation keys.
1
a LCD (liquid crystal display) (touch panel)
Selected pattern settings and messages are displayed.
Touch the keys displayed on the LCD to perform
operations.
For details, refer to "LCD (liquid crystal display)
operation" (page 14).
b Back key
Press to return to the previous LCD display.
c Previous page key
Displays the previous screen when there are items that
are not displayed on the LCD.
d Next page key
Displays the next screen when there are items that are
not displayed on the LCD.
2
5
6
7
8
4
3
e Menu key
Select pattern group; and when it is in embroidery,
returns to the initial embroidery screen.
f Settings key
Press to set the needle stop position, the buzzer sound,
and more.
g Memory key
Press to enter character embroidery, combined stitch
patterns, My Custom Stitch patterns, etc into the sewing
machine memory.
h Sewing machine help key
Press to get help on using the sewing machine.
Displays simple explanations of setting upper thread /
bobbin winding / setting bobbin thread / needle
replacement / embroidery unit attachment / embroidery
frame attachment / embroidery foot attachment / presser
foot replacement.
Cover E
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — O p t i o n a l A c c e s s o r ies
Optional Accessories
The following are available as optional accessories.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
6. 7. 8. 9.
10. 11.
No. Part Name
1 Side cutter "S" SA177 F054:XC3879-002
2 Quilting guide SA132 F016N:XC2215-002
3 Guide foot SA133 F017N:XC1957-002
4 Walking foot SA140 F033N:XC2214-002
5 Quilting foot SA129 F005N:XC1948-002 9 Embroidery card (Refer to next page.)
40 colors embroidery
threads
40 colors country
threads
22 colors embroidery
6
threads
21 colors country
threads
12 colors embroidery
threads
U.S.A. Others U.S.A. Others
SA740 ETS-40:X80928-100
CYT-40 CYT-40:X81078-102
SA741 ETS-22:X81276-102
CYT-41 CYT-21:X81269-102
SAETTS ETS-12:X81359-002
Part Code
No. Part Name
Embroidery bobbin
7
thread (black)
Water soluble stabilizer SA520 BM4:X81267-001
8
Stabilizer material for
embroidery
Embroidery set (small)
H 2 cm X W 6 cm
10
(H 1 inch X W 2-1/2
inch)
Embroidery set (large)
11
H 17 cm X W 10 cm
(H 6-7/10 inch X W 4 inch)
SAEBT
SA519 BM3:X81175-001
SA431 EF61:XA6630-002
SA434 EF71:XC2026-002
Part Code
EBT-CEB:XC1376-001
999
Memo
z To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your sales representative or the nearest authorized
service center.
z All specifications are correct at the time of printing. The part codes are subject to change without
notice.
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
■ List of Embroidery Cards
No. Part Name
1 Alphabet SA298 X58317-001 37 Appliqué Alphabet SA337 XA5753-001
2 Flower SA299 X58321-001 38 Angel SA338 XA5781-001
3 Dinosaur SA300 X58362-001 39 Doll Face SA339 XA5978-001
6 Moskowitz’s World SA303 X58497-001 40 Sports 3 SA340 XA6111-001
7 Country Life SA304 X59322-001 41 Renaissance Alphabet SA341 XA6586-001
8 Holiday SA305 X59357-001 42 Farm SA342 XA6733-001
9 Hobby Craft SA306 X59511-001 43 Victorian SA343 XA6769-001
10 Monogram Emblem SA307 X59567-001 44 Lace2 SA344 XA6849-001
11 Frame SA311 XA0257-001 45 Fancy Work SA345 XA7770-001
12 Transportation SA312 XA0275-001 46 Australian Animals SA346 XA7893-001
13 Sports Emblem SA313 XA0517-001 47 Butterfly SA347 XA8206-001
14 Large Floral SA314 XA1223-001 48 Australian Flowers SA348 XA8250-001
15 Cute Kids SA315 XA1325-001 49 Folk Art SA349 XA8348-001
16 Dogs & Cats SA316 XA1406-001 50 Fairy & Floral SA350 XA8414-001
19 Marine SA319 XA2452-001 52 Bear Collections SA352 XA8511-001
20 Petite Designs SA320 XA2869-001 53 Scene SA353 XA8936-001
21 Needlework SA321 XA2873-001 54 Tea Time SA354 XA9129-001
25 Horse SA325 XA3791-001 55 Gardening SA355 XA9348-001
27 Birds SA327 XA4289-001 56 Asian SA356 XC0025-001
28 Christmas SA328 XA4502-001 60 Summer Fun SA360 XC1168-001
29 Lace SA329 XA4664-001 61 Blouse Embellishment SA361 XC1304-001
30 Wildlife Animals SA330 XA4771-001 62 Zodiac Signs SA362 XC1502-001
31 Large Flower II SA331 XA5037-001 63 Bunny SA363 XC1646-001
32 Musical Instrument SA332 XA5386-001 64 Grand Mom SA364 XC2176-001
33 Trees SA333 XA5567-001 65 Red Work SA365 XC4220-001
35 Cats & Dogs II SA335 XA5629-001 66 Pop Mix SA366 XC4819-001
36 Fruits & Vegetables SA336 XA5659-001
U.S.A. Others U.S.A. Others
Part Code
No. Part Name
Part Code
Memo
z Embroidery cards purchased in foreign countries may not work with your machine.
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — Introduction
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the
"Important Safety Instructions" (page 8), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various
functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be
accessed for future reference.
Sewing Machine Features
5
1
2
3
4
6
a Thread cassette
Easily thread the upper thread by loading a spool of thread into the thread cassette. Then, simply insert the thread cassette
into the compartment to thread the needle. (page 24)
b Simple bobbin-winding
The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread. (page 18)
c Built-in stitches
You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches and decorative stitches. (page 66)
d One-touch lower threading
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. (page 21)
e Automatic thread cutting
The thread can be cut automatically after sewing. (page 60)
f Embroidery
You can embroider built-in embroidery patterns, characters, framed decorations, and designs from optional embroidery
cards. (page 127)
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Contents
Included Accessories............................................................................................... Cover A
Accessories ............................................................................................................................................ Cover A
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ......................................................... Cover B
Front view...............................................................................................................................................Cover B
Needle and presser foot section ............................................................................................................ Cover C
Right-side/rear view .............................................................................................................................. Cover C
Operation buttons .................................................................................................................................. Cover D
Operation panel...................................................................................................................................... Cover E
Optional Accessories...........................................................................................................1
Introduction ........................................................................................................................3
Sewing Machine Features....................................................................................................3
Important Safety Instructions ..............................................................................................8
GETTING READY 11
Turning the Machine On/Off.............................................................................................12
Power supply precautions ...............................................................................................................................12
Turning on the machine .................................................................................................................................. 13
Turning off the machine .................................................................................................................................. 13
LCD (liquid crystal display) operation...............................................................................14
Viewing the LCD............................................................................................................................................. 14
Changing the Machine Settings ....................................................................................................................... 15
Checking machine operating procedures ........................................................................................................17
Winding/Installing the Bobbin...........................................................................................18
Bobbin precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 18
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 18
Installing the bobbin ....................................................................................................................................... 21
Upper Threading ...............................................................................................................23
About the spool of thread ................................................................................................................................ 23
Loading the spool into the thread cassette ....................................................................................................... 24
Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 27
Using the extra spool pin ................................................................................................................................ 29
Thread the needle manually (without using the needle threader) ..................................................................... 30
Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 31
Pulling up the bobbin thread........................................................................................................................... 33
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................35
Needle precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 35
Needle types and their uses............................................................................................................................. 36
Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 37
Replacing the needle....................................................................................................................................... 37
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................40
Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 40
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................... 40
Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................... 42
Sewing Cylindrical Pieces..................................................................................................43
Free-arm sewing.............................................................................................................................................. 43
SEWING BASICS 45
Sewing...............................................................................................................................46
General sewing procedure ..............................................................................................................................46
Selecting stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 47
Positioning the fabric ...................................................................................................................................... 48
Starting to sew.................................................................................................................................................49
Securing the stitching ...................................................................................................................................... 51
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 52
Adjusting the Thread Tension............................................................................................54
Thread tension ................................................................................................................................................ 54
Changing the upper thread tension..................................................................................................................55
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length..............................................................................56
Adjusting the stitch width ................................................................................................................................ 56
Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 57
Useful Functions................................................................................................................59
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches .......................................................................................59
Automatically cutting the thread ..................................................................................................................... 60
Mirroring stitches ............................................................................................................................................ 61
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................62
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 62
Changing the sewing direction ........................................................................................................................ 62
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................. 62
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................ 63
Sewing thin fabrics .......................................................................................................................................... 63
Sewing stretch fabrics...................................................................................................................................... 63
Sewing an even seam allowance..................................................................................................................... 64
UTILITY STITCHES 65
Stitch Settings....................................................................................................................66
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 66
Other stitches..................................................................................................................................................71
Selecting Stitching.............................................................................................................72
Stitch types...................................................................................................................................................... 72
Selecting stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 72
Overcasting Stitches..........................................................................................................74
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G" .................................................................................... 74
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot "J" ............................................................................................. 75
Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter .............................................................................................76
Basic Stitching...................................................................................................................78
Basting ............................................................................................................................................................ 78
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................. 78
Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................80
Buttonhole Stitching..........................................................................................................82
Buttonhole sewing .......................................................................................................................................... 83
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 87
Zipper Insertion.................................................................................................................89
Inserting a centered zipper .............................................................................................................................. 89
Inserting a side zipper ..................................................................................................................................... 91
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................94
Stretch stitching............................................................................................................................................... 94
Elastic attaching .............................................................................................................................................. 94
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................96
Appliqué stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 96
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 98
Piecing ............................................................................................................................................................ 98
Quilting .......................................................................................................................................................... 99
Free-motion quilting...................................................................................................................................... 101
Satin stitching................................................................................................................................................ 102
Reinforcement Stitching..................................................................................................103
Triple stretch stitching ................................................................................................................................... 103
Bar tack stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 103
Darning......................................................................................................................................................... 105
Eyelet Stitching................................................................................................................107
Decorative Stitching........................................................................................................108
Fagoting ........................................................................................................................................................109
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Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 110
Smocking ...................................................................................................................................................... 110
Shell tuck stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 111
Joining .......................................................................................................................................................... 112
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 113
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns.............................................................116
Sewing beautiful patterns .............................................................................................................................. 116
Sewing patterns ............................................................................................................................................. 116
Changing satin stitch length .......................................................................................................................... 117
Realigning the pattern ................................................................................................................................... 117
Sewing combined patterns ..............................................................................................119
Combining patterns ....................................................................................................................................... 119
Storing a pattern ............................................................................................................................................ 121
Designing a Pattern (My Custom Stitch)..........................................................................123
Drawing a sketch of the pattern..................................................................................................................... 123
Entering the pattern data ............................................................................................................................... 124
Examples of designs ...................................................................................................................................... 126
EMBROIDERY 127
Embroidering neatly ........................................................................................................128
What to prepare ............................................................................................................................................ 128
Embroidery step by step ................................................................................................................................ 130
Attaching the embroidery foot ........................................................................................131
Attaching the embroidery foot ....................................................................................................................... 131
Removing the embroidery foot ...................................................................................................................... 133
Attaching the embroidery unit ........................................................................................134
Embroidery unit precautions ......................................................................................................................... 134
Attaching the embroidery unit ....................................................................................................................... 134
Removing the embroidery unit ...................................................................................................................... 136
Preparing the fabric.........................................................................................................138
Attaching a stabilizer material to the fabric ................................................................................................... 138
Setting the fabric in the embroidery frame ..................................................................................................... 139
Attaching the embroidery frame .....................................................................................142
Attaching the embroidery frame .................................................................................................................... 142
Removing the embroidery frame ................................................................................................................... 143
Selecting embroidery patterns.........................................................................................144
Copyright Information .................................................................................................................................. 144
Embroidery pattern types............................................................................................................................... 144
LCD (liquid crystal display) operation ........................................................................................................... 145
Selecting characters ...................................................................................................................................... 146
Selecting embroidery patterns ....................................................................................................................... 147
Selecting a frame pattern ............................................................................................................................... 148
Using an embroidery card ............................................................................................................................ 149
Embroidering...................................................................................................................150
Embroidering a pattern ..................................................................................................................................150
Appliquéing ................................................................................................................................................. 152
Convenient Functions......................................................................................................154
Adjusting the layout ...................................................................................................................................... 154
Storing characters.......................................................................................................................................... 155
Adjusting the thread tension .......................................................................................................................... 157
Resewing ......................................................................................................................................................157
Thread runs out partway through a design..................................................................................................... 158
Stopping while embroidering ........................................................................................................................ 158
APPENDIX 161
Maintenance....................................................................................................................162
Cleaning the machine surface ....................................................................................................................... 162
Cleaning the shuttle ...................................................................................................................................... 162
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Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................164
Error messages .............................................................................................................................................. 169
Nothing appears in the LCD .......................................................................................................................... 172
Operation beep............................................................................................................................................. 172
Cancelling the operation beep ...................................................................................................................... 173
Index ................................................................................................................................174
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Important Safety Instructions
When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following:
Read all instructions before using.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine from
the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is
used by or near children.
2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized
dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol " " position which represents off, then
remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10.Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
11.Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12.Do not use bent needles.
13.Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14.Switch the machine to the symbol " " position when making any adjustments in the needle
area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and
the like.
15.Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
16.This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without
supervision.
17.Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine.
18.If the Light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended for household use.
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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.
IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut
off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in
the plug.
NOTE
The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is
hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse
approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug.
Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
WARNING
DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE
LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW.
The wires in this main lead are colored in accordance with the following code:
Blue Neutral
Brown Live
As the colors of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colored
markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows.
The wire which is colored blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
‘N’ or colored black or blue.
The wire which is colored brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
‘L’ or colored red or brown.
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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE
Your machine is one of the most advanced computerized household sewing machines. To fully
enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.
PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation
1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the balance wheel, thread
take-up lever, needle, or other moving parts.
2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:
• Operation is completed
• Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts
• A power failure occurs during use
• Maintaining the machine
• Leaving the machine unattended
3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.
4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.
For a longer service life
1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
3. Do not drop or hit the machine.
4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser
feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
For repair or adjustment
In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in
the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists,
please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com
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1 GETTING READY
The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.
Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................12
LCD (liquid crystal display) operation.....................................................................14
Winding/Installing the Bobbin.................................................................................18
Upper Threading .....................................................................................................23
Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................35
Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................40
Sewing Cylindrical Pieces........................................................................................43
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Turning the Machine On/Off
This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.
Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
CAUTION
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a
fire may result.
12
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Turning on the machine
Prepare the included power cord.
Make sure that the sewing machine is turned
a
off (the main power switch is set to " "), and
then plug the power supply cord into the
power supply jack on the right side of the
machine.
Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a
b
household electrical outlet.
1
a Power supply jack
Press the right side of the main power switch
c
on the right side of the machine (set it to "|").
X The sewing lamp comes on when the
machine is turned on.
Fold the flap at the front of the sewing
d
machine down toward you.
Turning off the machine
When you are finished using the sewing machine,
turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing
machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
a
Press the left side of the main power switch on
b
the right side of the machine (set it to " ").
X The sewing lamp goes off when the machine
is turned off.
Unplug the power supply cord from the
c
electrical outlet.
Grasp the plug when unplugging the power
supply cord.
Unplug the power supply cord from the power
d
supply jack.
Note
z If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power
supply cord. When restarting the sewing
machine, follow the necessary procedure to
correctly operate the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
z This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact
a qualified electrician to install the proper
outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
1
Turning the Machine On/Off 13
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LCD (liquid crystal display) operation
Selected stitch, pattern settings and messages are displayed on the LCD (liquid crystal display) on the front
of the sewing machine.
Viewing the LCD
When the power is turned on, the LCD comes on, and the following screen is displayed.
The LCD display is changed using the keys on the right, and operations
performed by directly touching the LCD.
■ Utility stitch selection screen
1
2
6
7
8
3
9
0
4
5
a Selected stitch
b Presser foot to be used
c Stitches
d Stitch width (mm)
e Stitch length (mm)
f Automatic reverse/reinforcement
g Automatic thread cutting
h Horizontal mirror image key
i Number of stitches in group
j Number of the selected stitch
k Increase value
l Decrease value
A
B
■ Stitch group selection screen
Press (Menu key) to display the screen for selecting the stitch group. The details are explained in
"Selecting stitching" (page 47).
Memo
z A different screen is displayed when the embroidery unit is attached.
z Refer to "Error messages" (page 169) for messages displayed on the LCD.
z Depending on the model of sewing machine, an animation may be displayed when the power is turned
on. When an animation is displayed, the screen above will be displayed if you touch the LCD with
your finger.
14
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Changing the Machine Settings
Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed.
The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below.
Attribute Icon Details Settings
Thread color/Embroidery thread
Thread color/
needle count
You can switch among thread color/thread
number/needle count when embroidering.
number/Country Embroidery thread
number/Needle count/Time to
Embroider (after is pressed)
1
Needle
position
Twin needle
sewing
Thread color
index
Automatic
thread cutting
for embroidery
Stitch width
control
Vertical pattern
adjustment
Buzzer
Opening
screen
Specifies where the needle is positioned
when the sewing machine is stopped.
Specifies the twin needle.
When embroidery data containing custom
thread colors specified with the PE-DESIGN
Ver.5.0 is saved on a blank card, the stored
custom thread colors are displayed on the
machine, if "ON" is selected for this setting.
Press this key to use the automatic thread
cutting function when embroidering.
Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with
the sewing speed controller.
Adjusts the up and down position of the
pattern (page 117).
Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded
with each operation (page 173).
Sets whether or not to display the opening
screen when the power is turned on.
(There are models where this cannot be
changed.)
Down Up
Normal needle Twin needle
-9 to +9
Language
LCD brightness
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Allows the language used in the screens to
be changed.
Adjusts the brightness of the LCD.
Press (Settings key) on the display panel.
b
LCD (liquid crystal display) operation 15
English, French, German, Dutch,
Spanish, Italian, Danish,
Norwegian, Finnish, Swedish,
Portuguese, Russian, Japanese,
Korean or others
Lighter Darker
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X The settings screen appears.
Press the item to be set.
c
Switch screens using (Previous page key)
and (Next page key).
When settings are complete, press (Back
d
key).
X The initial screen appears again.
Note
z The "Thread color index" is the color
number display used when embroidery
cards made by "PE-Design" are used.
z The "NO." is the number for the sewing
machine.
z Settings that are changed are not lost when
the power is turned off.
• The items shown in reverse highlighting are
the settings at the time of purchase.
Example: Changing the needle stop position
16
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Press (Next page key) to switch to the
d
Checking machine operating
procedures
Displays simple explanations of setting upper thread /
bobbin winding / setting bobbin thread / needle
replacement / embroidery unit attachment /
embroidery frame attachment / embroidery foot
attachment / presser foot replacement on the LCD.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
next page.
If you press (Previous page key), you return
to the previous page.
Example: Upper threading
1
Press (Sewing machine help key) on the
b
display panel.
X The sewing machine help screen appears.
Press the item to be displayed.
c
2
1
5
67
a Threading the upper thread
b Winding the bobbin
c Installing the bobbin
d Needle replacement
e Embroidery unit attachment
f Embroidery frame attachment
g embroidery foot attachment
h Replacing the presser foot
X The first screen describing the procedure for
the selected topic appears.
3
4
8
After you finish looking, press (Back key)
e
two times.
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Note
z For details on each topic, refer to the
corresponding page in this Operation
Manual.
• Pressing (Back key), returns you to the
item selection screen.
LCD (liquid crystal display) operation 17
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Winding/Installing the Bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.
Bobbin precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions
concerning the bobbin.
CAUTION
● Only use the Bobbin (part code: SA156,
SFB:XA5539-151) designed specifically
for this sewing machine. Use of any other
bobbin may result in injuries or damage
to the machine.
● The included bobbin was designed
specifically for this sewing machine. If
bobbins from older models are used, the
machine will not operate correctly. Use
only the included bobbin or bobbins of
the same type (part code: SA156,
SFB:XA5539-151).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model
Older model
Winding the bobbin
Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the
bobbin thread.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Open the bobbin winder cover at the top on
b
the right side of the sewing machine.
Raise until it stops with a click.
18
Swing up the bobbin thread spool pin.
c
Move the bobbin thread spool pin up as far as
possible.
1
a Bobbin thread spool pin
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Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so
d
that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch
in the bobbin.
1
2
a Notch
b Bobbin winder shaft spring
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
e
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto
f
the bobbin thread spool pin.
Slide the spool cap onto the bobbin thread
g
spool pin.
With the rounded side of the spool cap
positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap
onto the bobbin thread spool pin as far as
possible until the right side of the spool touches
the right end of the bobbin thread spool pin.
CAUTION
● Two spool cap sizes are available,
allowing you to choose a spool cap that
best fits the size of spool being used. If the
spool cap is too small for the spool being
used, the thread may catch on the slit in
the spool or the needle may break.
●
1
• Use the special Brother embroidery bobbin
thread when embroidering.
Note
z If a spool of thread 12 mm (1/2 inch) in
diameter and 75 mm (3 inch) high is inserted
onto the bobbin thread spool pin, use the
special spool cap.
2
1
a 12 mm (1/2 inch)
b 75 mm (3 inch)
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 19
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Pull the thread to the right and pass it through
Memo
j
the slit in the bobbin winder seat.
z When using thread that winds off quickly,
such as transparent nylon thread or metallic
thread, place the spool net over the spool
before placing the spool of thread onto the
spool pin.
If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the
size of the spool.
1
a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
1
3
2
a Spool net
b Spool
c Spool pin
d Spool cap
Pull out some thread, and then thread the
h
thread guide for bobbin winding.
Be sure that the thread is fully in the two thread
guides for bobbin winding.
1
2
4
CAUTION
● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If
the bobbin is wound without cutting the
thread using the cutter built into the slit in
the bobbin winder seat, the thread may
become tangled in the bobbin or the
needle may bend or break when the
bobbin thread starts to run out.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
k
(so that the speed will be fast).
1
a Sewing speed controller
Press (Start/stop button) once.
l
a Thread guide for bobbin winding
b Two slits
Wind the thread that was pulled out onto the
i
bobbin.
Wind the thread that was pulled clockwise five
or six times without any slack.
20
1
a Start/stop button
• If it does not start when the start/stop button
is pressed, an animation is displayed on the
LCD. Press the start/stop button after
touching the LCD.
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X The bobbin starts spinning and winding the
thread, and "Winding bobbin thread..."
appears on the LCD.
X When winding is complete, the bobbin stops
spinning or spins freely.
Installing the bobbin
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
CAUTION
When the bobbin either stops spinning or spins
m
freely, press (Start/stop button).
X The sewing machine stops, and the
"Winding bobbin thread..." display
disappears from the LCD.
Use scissors to cut the end of the thread
n
wound around the bobbin.
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.
o
● Use a bobbin that has been correctly
wound with thread, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
● The bobbin was designed specifically for
this sewing machine. If bobbins from
older models are used, the machine will
not operate correctly. Use only the
included bobbin or bobbins of the same
type (part code: SA156, SFB:XA5539-
151).
1
Remove the bobbin from the shaft.
p
Remove the spool cap and spool.
q
Swing down the bobbin thread spool pin, close
r
the bobbin winder cover, and then slide the
sewing speed controller back to its original
position.
Memo
z When the sewing machine is started or the
balance wheel is turned after winding the
bobbin, the machine will make a clicking
sound; this is not a malfunction.
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model Older model
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
a
1
a Bobbin cover
b Latch
X The bobbin cover opens.
Remove the bobbin cover.
b
2
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 21
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Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold
c
the end of the thread with your left.
• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.
Insert the bobbin into the shuttle so that the
d
thread unrolls to the left.
• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.
CAUTION
● Be sure to hold down the bobbin with
your finger and unroll the bobbin thread
correctly, otherwise the thread may break
or the thread tension will be incorrect.
Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right
e
hand, and then guide the thread as shown with
your left hand.
Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and
f
then pull the thread out toward the front.
1
a Cutter
X The cutter cuts the thread.
Reattach the bobbin cover.
g
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
2
Memo
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the shuttle is indicated by
marks around the shuttle. Be sure to thread
the machine as indicated.
22
1
X The bobbin threading is finished.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with
the procedure in "Upper Threading" (on the
next page).
Memo
z You can begin sewing without pulling up the
bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the
bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up
the thread according to the procedure in
"Pulling up the bobbin thread" (page 33).
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Upper Threading
In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are
described.
CAUTION
● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is
not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
When using the extra spool pin, attach either the
About the spool of thread
With this sewing machine, a spool of thread can be
loaded into the thread cassette, and then the thread
cassette can be threaded. Information about the
spools of thread is described below.
■ Spools that can be loaded into the thread
cassette
Normally, a spool of thread is loaded into the
thread cassette and used. The spools that can be
loaded must have a diameter smaller than the
orange spool cap and a height shorter than the
mark on the cover of the thread cassette.
large or small white spool cap, depending on the
size of the spool. Use the spool cap with a
diameter that is slightly larger than the diameter
of the spool.
1
2
1
1
3
11
2
a Spool cap (orange)
b Spool
c Mark on thread cassette compartment cover
■ Spools that cannot be loaded into the thread
cassette
When using spools that cannot be loaded into the
thread cassette, use the extra spool pin.
3
a Spool cap (large)
b Spool cap (small)
c Spool
Memo
z For details on using the extra spool pin, refer
to "Using the extra spool pin" (page 29).
z When using a spool of cross-wound thread,
install the small white spool cap with some
space between the cap and the spool.
1
3
a Spool cap (small)
b Gap
c Spool
2
Upper Threading 23
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CAUTION
● Two spool cap sizes are available,
allowing you to choose a spool cap that
best fits the size of spool being used. If
the spool cap is too small for the spool
being used, the thread may catch on the
slit in the spool or the needle may break.
Loading the spool into the
thread cassette
Load the spool of thread into the thread cassette to
prepare the upper thread.
Memo
z The order for threading the thread cassette is
indicated on the thread cassette. Also check
the markings on the thread cassette while
threading it.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
24
Open the thread cassette compartment cover
b
at the top on the left side of the machine.
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Push the thread cassette eject lever on the left
c
side of the machine toward the back.
1
a Thread cassette eject lever
X The thread cassette is raised.
• If the sewing machine is turned off, the
thread cassette will not be ejected correctly.
Remove the thread cassette.
d
Pull the cover of the thread cassette out
e
toward you, and then pull off the spool cap
that is inserted onto the spool pin.
1
2
3
a Spool cap (orange)
b Spool pin
c Cover
Place the spool for the upper thread onto the
f
spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the spool pin so that the
thread unwinds from the left, as seen from the
top.
1
1
a Spool
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
g
With the rounded side of the spool cap
positioned toward the top, slide the spool cap
onto the spool pin as far as possible until the
down side of the spool touches the down end
of the spool pin.
• Only the orange spool cap should be placed
on the spool pin in the thread cassette.
Upper Threading 25
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• When using special thread such as metallic
CAUTION
thread, use the thumb of your left hand to
lightly press down on the area indicated in
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
the illustration to create an opening that
allows for easier threading.
become tangled around the spool pin or
the needle may break.
While holding the end of the thread with your
h
right hand and the thread cassette with your
left hand, close the cover.
Close until it clicks.
Pass the thread through the slit in the top of
i
the thread cassette.
Follow arrow 2 indicated on the thread
cassette.
1
a Push
b Gap
Pass the thread along the bottom of the thread
k
cassette.
Follow arrow 4 indicated on the thread
cassette.
2
Pull the thread to the left and pass it through
j
the slit along the left side of the thread
cassette.
Follow arrow 3 indicated on the thread
cassette.
26
Pass the thread through the notch in the
l
lower-right corner of the thread cassette, and
then pull the thread to the left.
Follow arrow 5 indicated on the thread
cassette.
1
a Notch
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Pull the thread under the disc at the front in
m
the lower-left corner and around to the right,
and then the thread will be cut with the cutter.
Follow arrow 6 indicated on the thread
cassette.
Threading the needle
In this section, the procedures for installing the thread
cassette and threading the needle are described. The
needle threader is used to thread the needle at the
same time that the thread cassette is inserted.
Memo
z The needle threader can be used with
sewing machine needles 75/11 through
100/16.
z Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker
cannot be used with the needle threader.
1
2
z The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle or the twin needle.
z If the needle threader cannot be used, refer
to "Thread the needle manually (without
using the needle threader)" (page 30).
1
a Disc
b Cutter
X The spool of thread is now loaded in the
thread cassette.
Note
z Be sure the thread is cut as described above,
otherwise the needle threader cannot be
used to thread the needle.
Check that the thread cassette indicator is lit
a
up in green.
1
a Thread cassette indicator
• If the thread cassette indicator is lit up in red,
the needle has not been raised to the correct
position. Press (Needle position button)
once to raise the needle.
1
a Needle position button
Upper Threading 27
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• If the needle is not raised to the correct position, the needle cannot be threaded with the
needle threader. Be sure to check that the
thread cassette indicator is lit up in green
before inserting the thread cassette.
1
Insert the thread cassette into the thread
b
cassette compartment.
Slowly press down on the thread cassette until
it clicks into place.
a Needle bar thread hooks
X At the same time that the thread cassette is
inserted, the needle is threaded.
X The thread cassette indicator goes off.
• If the needle could not be threaded or the
thread was not passed through the needle bar
thread hook, refer to "Loading the spool into
the thread cassette" (page 24) and perform
the procedure again starting from step
b.
• The thread cassette can be inserted whenever
the presser foot lever is raised or lowered.
However, when the side cutter is attached,
be sure to lower the presser foot lever before
installing the thread cassette. For more
details, refer to "Sewing overcasting stitches
using the side cutter" (page 76).
1
a Push here
CAUTION
● The needle threader will automatically
thread the needle when the thread
cassette is pushed down. Be sure to keep
your hands and other items away from
the needle, otherwise injuries may occur.
Carefully pull on the loop of thread passed
c
through the eye of the needle to pull out the
end of the thread.
• When embroidering, go to
e.
28
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Pass the thread through the presser foot, and
d
then pull out about 10-15 cm (3/8-5/8 inch) of
thread toward the rear of the machine.
1
a 10-15 cm (3/8-5/8 inch)
X The upper threading is finished.
Close the thread cassette compartment cover.
e
Using the extra spool pin
When using spools with a size that cannot be loaded
into the thread cassette, use the extra spool pin.
Place the spool of thread onto the extra spool
a
pin.
1
2
1
X Now that the upper threading and the lower
threading are finished, you are ready to
begin sewing.
• When embroidering, go to
"Embroidering a pattern" (page 150).
c in
Note
z When inserting the thread cassette into its
compartment, slowly press it down.
z If the sewing machine could not be
threaded, try performing the procedure
again starting from loading the spool of
thread into the thread cassette.
a Extra spool pin
b Spool
Slide the spool cap for the size of the spool
b
onto the spool pin.
a Spool cap
• For more details, refer to "About the spool of
thread" (page 23).
Insert the tabs on the extra spool pin into the
c
holes on the top of the thread cassette.
Upper Threading 29
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Thread the thread cassette with the thread
d
from the spool on the extra spool pin.
Thread the needle manually
(
without using the needle threader
)
When using special thread, thread with a thickness of
130/20 or thicker, the wing needle or the twin needle
which cannot be used with the needle threader,
thread the needle as described below.
Remove the needle.
a
• Refer to "Replacing the needle" (page 37).
• When using the wing needle, the twin needle
or thread that cannot be used with the needle
threader, be sure to remove the needle,
otherwise the machine may be damaged.
• For more details, refer to "Loading the spool
into the thread cassette" (page 24).
Check that the thread cassette indicator is lit
e
up in green, and insert the thread cassette
(with the extra spool pin attached) into the
thread cassette compartment.
Use both hands to press down on both sides of
the extra spool pin.
X At the same time that the thread cassette is
inserted, the needle is threaded.
Check that the thread cassette indicator is lit
b
up in green, and then insert the thread cassette
into the thread cassette compartment.
• For details, refer to
a through b
(page 27).
X Pass the thread through the needle bar
thread hooks.
1
a Needle bar thread hooks
Replace the needle.
c
• Refer to "Replacing the needle" (page 37).
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
d
from front to back.
X The extra spool pin is now installed.
30
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Load the spool for the second thread color
c
Using the twin needle
Using the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines
of the same stitch with two different colors. Both
upper threads should have the same thickness and
quality. Be sure to use the twin needle and the extra
spool pin.For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page
66).
onto the extra spool pin.
CAUTION
1
● Only use the twin needle (Part code :
X59296-051).
Use of any other needle may bend the
needle or damage the machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Do not try installing the twin needle while
the thread cassette is not installed,
otherwise the needle may break or
damage to the machine may result.
Remove the needle.
a
• For details, refer to "Replacing the needle"
(page 37).
Load the spool for the first thread color into
b
the thread cassette.
Thread the thread cassette up to arrow 2,
indicated on the thread cassette.
• For more details, refer to steps
in "Using the extra spool pin" (page 29).
Use the two threads to thread the thread
d
cassette, and then cut the threads.
Thread the thread cassette along arrows 3
through 6, indicated on the thread cassette.
• For more details, refer to steps
in "Loading the spool into the thread cassette"
(page 24).
a through d
j through m
• For more details, refer to steps
in "Loading the spool into the thread cassette"
(page 24).
a through i
Upper Threading 31
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Insert the thread cassette (with the extra spool
e
pin attached) into the thread cassette
compartment.
• For more details, refer to step
e in "Using
the extra spool pin" (page 29).
X Pass both threads through the needle bar
thread hooks.
• If the thread cassette is inserted with the twin
needle attached, the sewing machine may be
damaged.
Install the twin needle.
f
• For details, refer to "Replacing the needle"
(page 37).
Attach zigzag foot "J".
i
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer
to "Replacing the Presser Foot" (page 40).
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
attach zigzag foot "J", otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
Turn on the sewing machine and select a
j
stitch.
• For stitch selection see "Selecting stitching"
(page 47).
• See "Stitch Settings" (page 66) for stitches that
use a twin needle.
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
Press (Settings key) in the operation
k
panel.
Manually thread the left needle with the
g
thread for the left side of the stitch.
• For details, refer to "Thread the needle
manually (without using the needle threader)"
(page 30).
Remove the thread for the right side of the
h
stitch from only the lower hook of the needle
bar thread hooks, and then use it to thread the
right needle.
X The settings screen appears.
Press .
l
X displays in reverse highlight.
• If pressed again, it returns to .
X The twin needle can now be used.
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Press (Back key).
m
X The initial screen appears again, and
appears.
CAUTION
Pulling up the bobbin thread
When making gathers or before free-motion quilting,
first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.
Insert the bobbin into the shuttle.
a
• Refer to steps
bobbin" (page 21).
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
b
Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
a through e of "Installing the
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
select the twin needle setting, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.
Start sewing.
n
• For details on starting to sew, refer to
"Starting to sew" (page 49).
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.
While lightly holding the upper thread with
c
your left hand, press (Needle position
button) twice to raise the needle.
1
1
Note
z When changing the sewing direction, press
(Needle position button) to raise the
needle from the fabric, and then raise the
presser foot lever and turn the fabric.
CAUTION
● Do not try turning the fabric with the
twin needle left down in the fabric,
otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
● When the twin needle mode is selected
( ), do not turn the balance wheel
after removing the thread cassette.
Otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
a Needle position button
X The bobbin thread is looped around the
upper thread and can be pulled up.
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull
d
out the end of the bobbin thread.
Upper Threading 33
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Pull out about 10-15 cm (4-5 inches) of the
e
bobbin thread under the presser foot toward
the rear of the machine.
Reattach the bobbin cover.
f
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
2
1
34
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Replacing the Needle
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to
read and carefully follow the instructions below.
CAUTION
● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or
damage the machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
1
Replacing the Needle 35
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Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Fabric Type/Application
Medium weight
fabrics
Thin fabrics
Thick fabrics
Stretch fabrics
Easily frayed fabrics
Thread
Type Size
Broadcloth Cotton thread
60–80
Taffeta Synthetic thread
Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50–80
Lawn Cotton thread
60–80
Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50–80
Denim Cotton thread 30–50
Corduroy Synthetic thread
50
Tweed Silk thread
Jersey
Thread for knits 50–60
Tricot
Cotton thread
50–80 65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Size of Needle
75/11–90/14
65/9–75/11
90/14–100/16
Ball point needle
(golden colored)
75/11–90/14
For top-stitching
■ Thread and needle number
The lower the thread number is, the larger the
thread, and the larger the needle number, the
larger the needle.
■ Ball point needle (gold colored)
To avoid skipped stitches use ball point needles
with stretch fabrics.
■ Transparent nylon thread
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the
fabric or thread.
■ Embroidery needles
Use a 75/11 home sewing machine needle. When
embroidering on thick fabrics such as denim, use
a 90/14 or 100/16 home sewing machine needle.
36
Synthetic thread
30 90/14–100/16
Silk thread
• A 75/11 needle is already installed when the
sewing machine is purchased.
CAUTION
● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle
combinations are shown in the table
above. If the combination of the fabric,
thread and needle is not correct,
particularly when sewing thick fabrics
(such as denim) with thin needles (such as
65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or
break. In addition, the stitching may be
uneven or puckered or there may be
skipped stitches.
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Checking the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.
1
2
a Flat side
b Needle type marking
■ Correct needle
Replacing the needle
Replace the needle as described below. Use the
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to
be straight according to the instructions in "Checking
the needle".
Press (Needle position button) once or
a
twice to raise the needle.
1
a Needle position button
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
1
1
a Flat surface
■ Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.
1
a Flat surface
CAUTION
● Before replacing the needle, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the start/stop button
is accidentally pressed and the machine
starts sewing.
Lower the presser foot lever.
c
1
a Presser foot lever
Replacing the Needle 37
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Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
d
use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp
CAUTION
screw counterclockwise to remove the needle.
1
● Be sure to insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper and securely
tighten the needle clamp screw with the
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
break or damage may result.
2
a Screwdriver
b Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
With the flat side of the needle toward the rear
e
of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.
1
■ Using the needle-changing tool
Use the needle-changing tool to replace the
needle as described below.
Place the needle in the hole in the needle-
a
changing tool.
a Needle stopper
While holding the needle with your left hand,
f
use the screwdriver to tighten the needle
clamp screw.
Install the twin needle in the same way.
38
Lift up the needle-changing tool so that the
b
fork hooks onto the needle clamp screw.
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Using the screwdriver, loosen the needle
c
clamp screw.
Lower the needle-changing tool.
d
X The needle can be removed from the needle
bar.
Insert the needle until it touches the needle
g
stopper, and then use the screwdriver to
tighten the needle clamp screw.
X The needle is installed.
Lower the needle-changing tool off of the
h
needle.
Note
z The needle-changing tool can not be used
for the twin needle.
1
Insert the new needle into the hole in the
e
needle-changing tool.
Insert the needle with the flat side of the needle
toward the rear of the machine.
Lift up the needle-changing tool so that the
f
fork hooks onto the needle clamp screw.
Replacing the Needle 39
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Replacing the Presser Foot
The presser foot presses down on the fabric.
Presser foot precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet.
CAUTION
● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the
needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser
foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
Replacing the presser foot
Replace the presser foot as described below.
Press (Needle position button) once or
a
twice to raise the needle.
1
a Needle position button
• If the needle does not move when the needle
position button is pressed, an animation is
displayed on the LCD. Press the needle
position button after touching the LCD.
X The needle is raised.
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
CAUTION
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the start/stop button
is accidentally pressed and the machine
starts sewing.
Raise the presser foot lever.
c
1
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
Press the black button at the back of the
d
presser foot holder.
1
40
2
a Black button
b Presser foot holder
X The presser foot holder releases the presser
foot.
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Place a different presser foot below the holder
e
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
notch in the holder.
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is
positioned to be read.
1
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
1
2
a Presser foot holder
b Notch
c Pin
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
f
presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the
presser foot holder.
3
1
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is attached.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
g
presser foot is securely attached.
Buttonhole foot "A"
Overcasting foot "G"
Zigzag foot "J"
Button fitting foot "M"
Monogramming foot "N"
Blind stitch foot "R"
Side cutter "S"
Embroidery foot "Q"
z For details on the presser foot that should be
used with the selected stitch, refer to "Stitch
Settings" (page 66).
Replacing the Presser Foot 41
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Hold the presser foot holder in place with your
b
Removing the presser foot
holder
right hand, and then tighten the screw using
the screwdriver in your left hand.
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
embroidery foot and quilting foot. Use the
screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.
Remove the presser foot.
a
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot
b
holder screw.
2
1
3
a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
■ Attaching the presser foot holder
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
a
left side of the presser bar.
1
a Screwdriver
Note
z If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be
incorrect.
42
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Sewing Cylindrical Pieces
Free-arm sewing makes sewing cylindrical pieces easy.
When you are finished with free-arm sewing,
d
Free-arm sewing
push the sliding leg back into position.
1
Removing the flap allows for free-arm sewing,
making it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as
sleeve cuffs and pant legs.
Slide the flap off to the left.
a
X With the flap removed, free-arm sewing is
possible.
Pull the sliding leg (at the bottom of the
b
machine) out toward you.
Then, install the flap back to its original
e
position.
1
a Sliding leg
• During free-arm sewing, be sure to pull out
the sliding leg.
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
c
arm, and then sew from the top.
Sewing Cylindrical Pieces 43
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44
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2 SEWING BASICS
The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.
Sewing.....................................................................................................................46
Adjusting the Thread Tension..................................................................................54
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length....................................................................56
Useful Functions......................................................................................................59
Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................62
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Sewing
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
CAUTION
● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,
keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and balance wheel, otherwise
injuries may occur.
● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the
needle may break.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or
bend.
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
1 Turn on the machine.
2 Select the stitch..
3 Attach the presser foot.
4 Position the fabric..
5 Start sewing..
6 Cut the thread..
Turn on the sewing machine. For details on turning on the machine,
refer to "Turning on the machine" (page 13).
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. For details on
selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 47).
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. For details on replacing
the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 40).
Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric
pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of
the fabric are aligned correctly. For details on positioning the fabric,
refer to "Positioning the fabric" (page 48).
Start sewing. For details on starting to sew, refer to "Starting to sew" (page
49).
Cut the thread at the end of sewing. For details on cutting the thread,
refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 52).
↓
↓
↓
↓
↓
46
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Selecting stitching
Stitches are selected using LCD operations. There are
67 utility stitches. Right after turning the power on,
the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected.
Determine the stitch to be used, and get the
a
matching presser foot ready.
• Refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 66).
Attach the presser foot.
b
The machine comes with zigzag foot "J"
attached.
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
CAUTION
● Use the presser foot appropriate for the
stitch. If the wrong presser foot is used,
the needle may hit the presser foot and
break or bend.
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
X The straight stitch (left needle position) is
shown selected in the LCD.
Press the stitch selection.
d
(Previous page key) displays the previous
screen, and (Next page key) displays the
next screen.
Example:
X The stitch is selected, and the stitch number
and settings are displayed.
If necessary, specify the setting for automatic
e
reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the
stitch length, etc.
11
is selected:
Memo
z Uses of stitches and other stitch selections
are explained in "UTILITY STITCHES" (page
65).
z Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
and other settings are explained in "Useful
Functions" (page 59).
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. For details, refer to "Replacing
the Presser Foot" (page 40). Check that the
correct presser foot is attached before
starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is
installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach
the correct presser foot, and then select the
desired stitch again.
2
Sewing 47
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Positioning the fabric
Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct
order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric
are aligned correctly.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Lower the presser foot lever.
Press (Needle position button) once or
b
twice to raise the needle.
e
1
a Needle position button
Place the fabric under the presser foot.
c
• If the seam allowance is positioned on the
right side, sewing in a straight line is easier
and the extra fabric does not get in the way.
While holding the end of the thread and the
d
fabric with your left hand, turn the balance
wheel toward you with your right hand to
lower the needle to the starting point of the
stitching.
1
a Presser foot lever
X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.
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Starting to sew
Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the
sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted
using either the sewing speed controller or the foot
controller.
• If you continue to hold the start/stop button
Note
z When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannnot be used to start or
stop sewing.
c
pressed immediately after the sewing starts,
the machine will sew at a slow speed.
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
(Start/stop button) once.
2
■ Using the operation button
Sewing can be started and stopped using the
operation button (Start/stop button).
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
a
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
1
a Sewing speed controller
Press (Start/stop button) once.
b
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
down (in the fabric).
When you have finished sewing, press
d
(Needle position button).
X The needle is raised.
Cut the threads.
e
• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page
52).
■ Using the foot controller
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot
controller.
Turn off the sewing machine.
a
When connecting the foot controller, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent
the machine from accidentally being started.
a Start/stop button
1
X The machine starts sewing.
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on
b
the back side of the sewing machine.
1
a Foot controller jack
Sewing 49
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SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
When the end of the stitching is reached,
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
z Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this
machine model 500D/500, HE-120.
f
completely release the foot controller.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
lowered (in the fabric).
When you have finished sewing, press
g
(Needle position button).
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
d
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
1
a Sewing speed controller
• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller is the foot controller’s maximum
sewing speed.
Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly
e
press down on the foot controller.
Pressing down on the foot controller increases
the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the
foot controller decreases the sewing speed.
X The needle is raised.
Cut the threads.
h
• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page
52).
Memo
z When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start or
stop sewing.
z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be
set so that the needle will stay up when
sewing is stopped. For details on setting the
machine so that the needle stays up when
sewing is stopped, refer to "Changing the
Machine Settings" (page 15).
CAUTION
● Do not allow thread or dust to
accumulate in the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
● Do not place objects on the foot
controller, otherwise damage to the
machine or injuries may occur.
● If the machine is not to be used for a long
period of time, unplug the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
Slower
Faster
• Slowly press down on the foot controller.
Pressing it down hard starts sewing too
quickly.
X The machine starts sewing.
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Securing the stitching
When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at
the end of an opening or where seams do not
overlap, use reverse stitching or einforcement
stitching to secure the end of the thread.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
a
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.
a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch
button is held pressed, reverse stitches are
sewn.
After sewing back to the beginning of the
d
stitching, release the reverse/reinforcement
stitch button.
X The machine stops sewing.
1
2
Press (Start/stop button) or press down on
b
the foot controller.
At this time, if the start/stop button is held
pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.
1
a Start/stop button
• For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page
49).
X The machine starts sewing.
After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press
c
(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button).
Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
held down until you reach the beginning of the
stitching.
Press (Start/stop button), or press down
e
on the foot controller.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
f
(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button).
Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are
sewn.
X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch
button is depressed, reverse stitches are
sewn.
• The machine sews at a slow speed when the
reverse/reinforcement stitch button is held
down.
Sewing 51
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After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,
g
release (Reverse/reinforcement stitch
button).
X The machine stops sewing.
Press (Start/stop button), or press down
h
on the foot controller.
At this time, if the start/stop button is held
pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the
i
sewing machine stops.
Release the start/stop button or foot controller.
1
3
1
2
Cutting the thread
When you have finished sewing, cut the threads.
■ Using the thread cutter button
When you wish to finish the stitching, press
a
(Thread cutter button) once.
1
a Thread cutter button
X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.
5
4
2
a Beginning of stitching
b End of stitching
■ Sewing stitches
Reverse stitches are set for the
stitches.
When (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
is pressed with stitches other than these,
reinforcement stitches are used. Reinforcement
stitches are 3 to 5 stitches sewn on top of each
other in one place.
1
a Reverse stitching
b Reinforcement stitching
13
2
6
and
Memo
z The sewing machine can be set to
automatically sew reverse or reinforcement
stitches at the beginning and end of the
stitching. For details, refer to "Automatically
sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches" (page
59).
Raise the presser foot lever, then remove the
b
fabric.
7
1
a Presser foot lever
CAUTION
● Do not press the thread cutter button
after the threads have already been cut,
otherwise the needle may break, the
threads may become tangled or damage
to the machine may occur.
● Do not press the thread cutter button if
there is no fabric under the presser foot or
while the machine is sewing, otherwise
damage to the machine may occur.
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Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
Memo
z The machine can be set so that the threads
will be cut when sewing is finished. For
details on setting the machine so that the
threads are cut automatically, refer to "Automatically cutting the thread" (page 60).
■ Using the thread cutter
When sewing with thread thicker than #30, nylon
or metallic threads, or other special threads, use
the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut
the threads.
When you wish to finish the stitching and the
a
sewing machine is stopped, press (Needle
position button) once.
c
and then pass the threads through the thread
cutter to cut them.
1
a Thread cutter
2
a Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
a Presser foot lever
1
1
Sewing 53
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Adjusting the Thread Tension
The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they
are equal.
■ Upper thread is too loose
Thread tension
You may need to change the thread tension,
depending on the fabric and thread being used.
■ Correct thread tension
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should
cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper
thread should be visible from the right side of the
fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be
visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
1
2
3
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread
■ Upper thread is too tight
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.
4
If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.
5
1
2
3
4
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread
e The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
the fabric.
Turn the thread tension dial upward to a higher
number to tighten the upper thread.
1
2
3
5
4
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread
e The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric.
Turn the thread tension dial downward to a lower
number to loosen the upper thread.
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Changing the upper thread
tension
The tension is changed using the thread tension dial
on the left side of the sewing machine.
Test the stitching using a scrap of the actual
a
fabric to be used.
Referring to the illustration below, turn the
b
thread tension dial on the left side of the
sewing machine.
The larger the number is, the greater the upper
thread tension.
Tight
2
Loose
1
a Thread tension dial
Test it until the thread tension is suitable.
c
Memo
z Recommended tension setting for normal
stitching is 3-4-5 within the shaded area of
the upper tension dial.
Adjusting the Thread Tension 55
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Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length
The stitch width and length can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is selected, the appropriate width
and length are automatically selected.
Adjusting the stitch width
The zigzag width can be adjusted on the LCD.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
• If the setting is changed, the highlighted
value is erased.
Select a stitch.
b
■ For groups other than utility stitches
When selecting stitches in the decorative
stitch, satin stitch, cross-stitch and combined
utility stitch groups, press after selecting
the stitch.
X A screen containing settings for the selected
stitch appears.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
"Selecting stitching" (page 47).
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the
standard settings (highlighted) appear.
To make the stitch width narrower, press .
c
To make the stitch width wider, press .
■ For groups other than utility stitches
When selecting stitches in the decorative
stitch, satin stitch, cross-stitch and combined
utility stitch groups, press after making
the setting.
Memo
z To reset the stitch width to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or
change the setting to the highlighted value.
z If the straight stitch (left needle position or
triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing
the stitch width changes the needle position.
Increasing the width moves the needle to the
right; reducing the width moves the needle
to the left.
z The sewing machine can be set so that the
stitch width can easily be changed with the
sewing speed controller. For details, refer to
"Satin stitching" (page 102).
z means the setting cannot be adjusted.
X The stitch width is changed.
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CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
Adjusting the stitch length
The stitch length can be adjusted on the LCD.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
b
■ For groups other than utility stitches
When selecting stitches in the decorative
stitch, satin stitch, cross-stitch and combined
utility stitch groups, press after selecting
the stitch.
2
X A screen containing settings for the selected
stitch appears.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
"Selecting stitching" (page 47).
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the
standard settings (highlighted) appear.
To make the stitch length shorter, press .
c
To make the stitch length longer, press .
X The stitch length is changed.
• If the setting is changed, the highlighted
value is erased.
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length 57
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■ For groups other than utility stitches
When selecting stitches in the decorative
stitch, satin stitch, cross-stitch and combined
utility stitch groups, press after
making the setting.
Memo
z To reset the stitch length to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or
change the setting to the highlighted value.
z means the setting cannot be adjusted.
CAUTION
● If the stitches are bunched together,
increase the stitch length. Continuing to
sew with the stitches bunched together
may result in the needle bending or
breaking.
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Useful Functions
Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
d
Automatically sewing reverse/
reinforcement stitches
The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew
reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and
end of the stitching.Whether reverse stitches or
reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch
that is selected. For details, refer to "Stitch Settings"
(page 66).
then press (Start/stop button) once.
2
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
b
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
"Selecting stitching" (page 47).
Press on the LCD.
c
X It turns to , and the sewing machine is set
for automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching.
1
a Start/stop button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the machine starts sewing.
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
e
(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
once.
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
1
a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops.
• To turn automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching off, press .
• When the sewing machine is turned off, the
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
setting is cancelled.
Useful Functions 59
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Memo
z Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be
sewn if the start/stop button is pressed at the
end of the stitching. Be sure to press the
reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the
end of the stitching.
Automatically cutting the
thread
The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut
the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called
"programmed thread-cutting". If programmed threadcutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching is also set.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
b
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
"Selecting stitching" (page 47).
Press on the LCD.
c
60
X You get , and the sewing machine is
set for programmed thread-cutting and
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching.
• To turn programmed thread cutting off, press
.
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Set the fabric in place, and press (Start/
d
stop button) once.
Mirroring stitches
You can sew the mirror image of a stitch horizontally
(left and right).
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
1
X Stitching starts after reverse stitching or
reinforcement stitching.
Once you have reached the end of the
e
stitching, press (Reverse/reinforcement
stitch button) once.
If stitching, such as buttonholes and bar
tacking, that includes reinforcement stitching
has been selected, this operation is
unnecessary.
X After the reverse stitching or reinforcement
stitching has been done, the sewing machine
stops, and the thread is cut.
The thread is cut here.
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
b
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
"Selecting stitching" (page 47).
Press on the LCD.
c
■ For groups other than utility stitches
X It turns to , and the pattern is mirrored.
2
Memo
z Programmed thread-cutting will not be
performed if the start/stop button is pressed
while sewing. Press the reverse/
reinforcement stitch button at the end of the
stitching.
z If the power is turned off, programmed
thread-cutting will be turned off.
• To turn the mirrored stitching off, press .
Memo
z Mirroring is not possible for buttonholes and
other stitches where shows.
z When the sewing machine is turned off, the
mirroring setting is cancelled.
Useful Functions 61
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SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Useful Sewing Tips
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips
when sewing your project.
Trial sewing
After you have set up the machine with the thread
and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being
sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread
tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that
is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be
sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and
stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be
achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
Changing the sewing direction
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
a
sewing machine.
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle remained up when the machine stopped
sewing, press (Needle position button) to
lower the needle.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve. For details on
sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to
"Sewing an even seam allowance" (page 64).
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
b
fabric.
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
c
sewing.
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Sewing thick fabrics
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.
X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position.
■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching
Zigzag foot "J" is equipped with a feature that
keeps the presser foot level.
1
a Sewing direction
When you encounter a seam that is too thick
a
to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot
lever.
Press the black button (Presser foot holding
b
pin) on the left side of zigzag foot "J". Keep the
button held in and lower the presser foot.
CAUTION
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
bend or break.
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this
occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under
the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When
you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
1
a Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing stretch fabrics
2
1
a Presser foot holding pin
X Release the button. The foot will lock in
place level with the seam, allowing the
fabric to feed.
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew
without stretching the fabric.
1
a Basting
Besides, using the stretch stitching or the thread for
knits gives an attractive finishes.
Useful Sewing Tips 63
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■ Aligning the fabric with the guide foot
Sewing an even seam
allowance
Sew while keeping the right edge of the fabric
aligned with a desired position of markings on the
guide foot.
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam
allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the
edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge
of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser
foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.
1
2
a Seam
b Presser foot
■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
The markings on the needle plate show the
distance from the needle position of a seam sewn
with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew
while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with
a marking in the needle plate. The distance
between the markings in the upper scale is
1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the
markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
5
1
2
4
3
6
a Seam
b Presser foot
c Centimeters
d Inches
e Needle plate
f 16 mm (5/8 inch)
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3 UTILITY STITCHES
The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.
Stitch Settings..........................................................................................................66
Selecting Stitching...................................................................................................72
Overcasting Stitches................................................................................................74
Basic Stitching.........................................................................................................78
Blind Hem Stitching ................................................................................................80
Buttonhole Stitching................................................................................................82
Zipper Insertion.......................................................................................................89
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape..................................................................94
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching................................................................96
Reinforcement Stitching........................................................................................103
Eyelet Stitching......................................................................................................107
Decorative Stitching..............................................................................................108
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns...................................................116
Sewing combined patterns ....................................................................................119
Designing a Pattern (My Custom Stitch)................................................................123
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Stitch Settings
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility
stitches in the following table.
Utility stitches
Stitch Name Pattern
Straigh t
Left
stitch
Center
Triple stretch stitch
Stretch stitch
Basting stitch
Zigzag
Center
stitch
Right
2-point
zigzag stitch
3-point
zigzag stitch
Stitch Width
Application
Presser Foot
1
2
3
Basic stitching, sewing gathers
J
or pintucks, etc.
Basic stitching and sewing
J
gathers or pintucks
Attaching zip pers, basic
J/I
stitching, sewing gathers or
[mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
0.0
0.0–7.0
(0)
(0–1/4)
0.0
0.0–7.0
(0)
(0–1/4)
––
pintucks, etc.
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Attaching sleeves, sewing
J
inseams, sewing stretch fabrics
and decorative stitching
Sewing stretch fabrics and
J
decorative stitching
J Temporarily securing
Overcasting and attach ing
J
appliqués
Beginning sewing from the right
J
needle position
Overcasting on mediumweight
J
or stretch fabrics, attaching
elastic, darning, etc.
Overcasting on mediumweight
J
or stretch fabrics, attaching
elastic, darning, etc.
Overcasting on thin or
G
mediumweight fabrics
0.0
(0)
1.0
(1/16)
0.0
(0)
3.5
(1/8)
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Twin Needle
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes Reverse No
Yes Reinforcement Yes
Yes Reverse No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
– – No Reinforcement No
1.4
(1/16)
1.4
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
0.3–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes Reverse No
Yes Reinforcement Yes
Yes Reinforcement Yes
Yes Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
Walking Foot
Overcasting stitch
66
12
G Overcasting on thick fabrics
13
14
15
16
Overcasting on thick fabrics and
G
decorative stitching
J Overcasting on stretch fabrics
Overcasting on thick or stretch
J
fabrics
Overcasting on stretch fabrics
J
and decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
4.0
(3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Stitch Name Pattern
Blind hem stitch
Appliqué stitch
Shell tuck stitch
Satin scallop stitch
Joining stitch
Smocking stitch
Fagotin g stitch
Elastic-attaching
stitch
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
Application
Presser Foot
Blind hem stitching on
R
mediumweight fabrics
Blind hem stitching on stretch
R
fabrics
J Appliqué stitching
J Shell tuck stitching
N Scallop stitching
Patchwork stitching and
J
decorative stitching
Patchwork stitching, decorative
stitching and s ewing overcasting
J
on both pieces of fabric, such as
with tricot
Patchwork stitching and
J
decorative stitching
Smocking stitching and
J
decorative stitching
Fagoting and decorative
J
stitching
Fagoting and decorative
J
stitching
Attaching elastic to stretch
J
fabrics
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
0.0
3← – 3→
(0)
0.0
3← – 3→
(0)
3.5
2.5–5.0
(1/8)
(3/32–3/16)
4.0
5.0
4.0
5.0
5.0
5.0
5.0
5.0
4.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
2.0
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/64–3/16)
0.5
(1/32)
(1/64–1/16)
1.2
(1/16)
(1/64–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
1.2
(1/16)
(1/64–3/16)
1.6
(1/16)
(1/16–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
1.0
(1/16)
(1/64–3/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
1.6–4.0
0.2–4.0
0.1–1.0
0.2–4.0
1.0–4.0
0.2–4.0
1.0–4.0
1.0–4.0
1.0–4.0
0.2–4.0
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Twin Needle
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Walking Foot
3
Stitch Settings 67
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Stitch Name Pattern
Decorative stitch
Stitch Width
Application
Presser Foot
29
30
31
J Decorative stitching
J Decorative stitching
J Decorative stitching
32
33
Decorative stitching and elastic-
N
attaching
Lace sewing, decorative
N
hemming, heirloom stitching,
etc.
34
35
36
37
38
39
Decorative hemming, heirloom
N
stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on thin,
N
mediumweight and plain weave
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on thin,
N
mediumweight and plain weave
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on thin,
N
mediumweight and plain weave
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on thin,
N
mediumweight and plain weave
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming, ribbon
N
threading, heirloom stitching,
etc.
40
41
Decorative stitching, smocking
N
stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative stitching, smocking
N
stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.
[mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
4.0
4.0
5.5
5.0
3.5
(1/8)
6.0
5.0
5.0
5.0
5.0
5.0
6.0
5.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(7/32)
(3/16)
(15/64)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(15/64)
(3/16)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
3.0
(1/8)
(1/16–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
1.6
(1/16)
(1/16–3/16)
1.0
(1/16)
(1/64–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
3.0
(1/8)
(1/16–3/16)
3.5
(1/8)
(1/16–3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
1/16–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
(1/16–3/16)
3.0
(1/8)
(1/16–3/16)
1.6
(1/16)
(1/16–3/16)
1.6
(1/16)
(1/16–3/16)
2.0–4.0
1.0–4.0
1.0–4.0
0.2–4.0
1.6–4.0
1.5–4.0
1.5–4.0
1.5–4.0
1.5–4.0
1.5–4.0
1.5–4.0
1.0–4.0
1.0–4.0
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Twin Needle
No Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
Yes Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
Walking Foot
68
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Stitch Name Pattern
Buttonhole stitch
Darning stitch
Bar tack stitch
Button-sewing stitch
Eyelet stitch
Piecing straight
stitch
Straight stitch that
looks hand-sewn
(for quilting)
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
Appliqué stitch
(for quilting)
Presser Foot
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
Horizontal buttonholes on thin
A
and mediumweight fabrics
Horizontal buttonholes on areas
A
that are subject to strain
Horizontal buttonholes on thick
A
fabrics
Secured buttonholes for fabrics
A
that have backings
Buttonholes for stretch or knit
A
fabrics
A Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
A Bound buttonholes
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or
A
furry fabrics
Keyhole buttonholes for
A
mediumweight and thick fabrics
Horizontal buttonholes for thick
A
or furry fabrics
A Darning mediumweight fabrics
A Darning thick fabrics
Reinforcing openings and areas
A
where the seam easily comes
loose
M Button sewing
Sewing eyelets, for example, on
N
belts
Piecing straight stitching (with a
J
seam allowance of 6.5 mm from
the right edge of the presser foot)
58
Piecing straight stitching (with a
J
seam allowance of 6.5 mm from
the left edge of the presser foot)
59
60
61
Straight stitch quilting that looks
J
hand-sewn
Appliqué quilting, free-motion
J
quilting, satin stitching
J Attaching appliqués and b inding
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
6.0
(15/54)
6.0
(15/54)
5.0
(3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
3.5
(1/8)
7.0
(1/4)
5.5
(7/32)
1.5
(1/16)
0.0
(0)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5
(1/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
0.0–6.0
(0–15/64)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5–4.5
(3/32–3/16)
7.0, 6.0,
5.0 (1/4,
15/64,
3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
0.4
0.4
0.4
0.4
1.0
1.5
2.0
0.5
0.5
0.5
2.0
2.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32–1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.4–2.5
(1/64–3/32)
0.4–2.5
(1/64–3/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
(1/64)
(1/64)
(1/64)
(1/64)
(1/16)
(1/16)
(1/16)
(1/32)
(1/32)
(1/32)
(1/16)
(1/16)
(1/64)
– – No Reinforcement No
7.0, 6.0,
5.0 (1/4,
7.0
(1/4)
15/64,
3/16)
1.6
1.6
2.5
1.4
1.2
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
(1/16)
(1/16)
(3/32)
(1/16)
(1/16)
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Twin Needle
Automatic
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement Yes
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement Yes
No Reinforcement No
Walking Foot
3
Stitch Settings 69
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Stitch Name Pattern
Quilting stitch
62
(for stippling)
63
64
Side cutter
65
66
67
Application
Presser Foot
Quilting background stitching
J
(stippling)
Sewing straight stitches while
S
cutting the fabric
Sewing zigzag stitches while
S
cutting the fabric
Overcasting on thin and
S
mediumweight fabrics while
cutting the fabric
Overcasting on thick fabrics
S
while cutting the fabric
Overcasting on mediumweight
S
and thick fabrics while cutting
the fabric
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
7.0
(1/4)
0.0
(0)
3.5
(1/8)
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
0.0–2.5
(0–3/32)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
1.6
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.4
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Twin Needle
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
Walking Foot
70
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Other stitches
Stitch Type Pattern
Decorative stitches
Satin stitches
Cross-stitches
12345678910
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31*
12345678910
11 12 13 14 15 16
12345678910
11 12 13 14
Presser Foot
NNoYesYes
N Yes Yes Yes
NNoYesYes
Twin Needle
Length/width
Adjustable Pattern
Left/Right Flipping
3
* Pattern for making adjustment
Stitch Settings 71
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Selecting Stitching
You can select any of the various types of stitching available.
Stitch types
There are utility stitch, decorative stitch, satin stitch,
cross-stitch, combined utility stitch and my custom
stitches groups.
For details on the types of stitches available, refer to
"Stitch Settings" (page 66).
1
6
a Utility stitches
You can select from 67 types of utility stitches,
including straight line stitching, overcasting, button
holes and basic decorative stitches. If this is
selected, the screen that appears right after the
power is turned on is displayed.
b Decorative stitches
(Can be combined)
You can select from 31 decorative stitches,
including, leaves, flowers and hearts. You can sew
combinations of multiple decorative stitches.
2
3
4
5
Selecting stitching
Determine which presser foot should be used
a
with the selected stitch.
• Refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 66).
Attach the presser foot.
b
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
X The straight stitch (left needle position) is
shown selected in the LCD.
Press (Menu key) on the operation
d
panel.
c Satin stitches
(Can be combined)
There are 16 satin stitches. You can sew
combinations of multiple decorative stitches.
d Combined utility stitches
(Can be combined)
You can sew with combinations from 39 utility
stitches.
e Cross-stitches
(Can be combined)
There are 14 types of cross-stitches. You can sew
combinations of multiple decorative stitches.
f My custom stitches
You can design original stitches. (For details, refer
to "Designing a Pattern (My Custom Stitch)" (page
123).)
72
X The screen for checking the stitching is
displayed.
Press .
e
X The screen containing the various stitches in
the selected stitch type appears.
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Select the stitch type.
f
X The screen containing the various types of
stitches appears.
• To select a different stitch type, press
(Back key).
Press the stitch selection.
g
(Previous page key) displays the previous
screen, and (Next page key) displays the
next screen.
When a decorative stitch is selected
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
Memo
z For details on adjusting the stitch width and
length, refer to "Adjusting the Stitch Width
and Length" (page 56).
3
12
4
5
6
3
89
a Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch
b Decorative stitch selection
c Set width and length
d Automatic thread cutting
e Check combined pattern
f Delete a selected pattern
g Horizontal mirror image
h Single stitch sewing
i Repeat sewing
• To select a different stitch, press the to
remove a selected pattern.
7
If necessary, specify the setting for automatic
h
reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the
stitch length, etc.
• For details on sewing with each of the utility
stitches, refer to the following pages.
Selecting Stitching 73
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Overcasting Stitches
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Fifteen stitches are
available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the
presser foot that is used.
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G"
Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot "G".
Stitch Name Pattern Application
11
Preventing fraying in medium
weight and thin fabrics
Overcasting
stitch
Attach overcasting foot "G".
a
12
13
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics and fabrics that fray
easily
G
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
Select a stitch.
b
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
c
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
1
a Guide
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
d
presser foot guide.
Presser
Foot
G
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
47).
74
1
a Needle drop point
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Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot "J"
Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot "J".
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Zigzag stitch
(center
needle
7
Preventing fraying (center
baseline/reverse stitching)
position)
Zigzag stitch
(right needle
position)
2-point
zigzag stitch
3-point
10
8
Preventing fraying (right
baseline/reinforcement stitching)
9
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics and stretch fabrics
zigzag stitch
14
Preventing fraying in stretch
fabrics
Overcasting
stitch
15
16
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics and stretch fabrics
Preventing fraying in stretch
fabrics
Attach zigzag foot "J".
a
J
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3.5
(1/8)
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
1.4
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
0.3–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the
c
needle dropping off the edge at the right.
Presser
Foot
J
3
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
Select a stitch.
b
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
47).
1
a Needle drop point
1
a Needle drop point
Overcasting Stitches 75
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter
Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be
used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.
Stitch Name Pattern Application
63
Sewing straight stitches while
cutting the fabric
64
Sewing zigzag stitches while
cutting the fabric
Overcasting
stitch
65
66
Preventing fraying in thin and
mediumweight fabrics while
cutting the fabric
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics while cutting the fabric
67
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics while cutting the fabric
Remove the presser foot.
a
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
0.0
(0)
3.5
(1/8)
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–2.5
(0–3/32)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.4
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
1.0–4.0
( 1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
( 1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
( 1/16–3/16)
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin
c
is aligned with the notch in the presser foot
holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot
lever.
2
1
Presser
Foot
S
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter
b
onto the needle clamp screw.
1
a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw
76
2
a Notch in presser foot holder
b Pin
X The side cutter is attached.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
d
side cutter is securely attached.
CAUTION
● If the thread cassette is to be installed
with the side cutter attached, be sure to
lower the presser foot lever. If the presser
foot lever remains raised, the needle
threader will hit the presser foot, which
may result in damages.
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Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,
e
and then pull it out toward the rear of the
sewing machine.
Select a stitch.
f
Position the fabric in the side cutter.
h
The cut in the fabric should be positioned over
the guide plate of the side cutter.
1
a Guide plate
• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the
fabric will not be cut.
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start
i
sewing.
3
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
47).
Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in
g
the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
1
a 2 cm (3/4 inch)
X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching
is sewn.
• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line
the seam allowance will be about 5 mm
(3/16 inch).
63
1
a 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Memo
z The side cutter can cut as much as one layer
of 13-oz. denim.
z After using the side cutter, clean it by
removing any lint or dust.
z If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,
use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to
the cutting edge of the cutter.
,
Overcasting Stitches 77
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Basic Stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Basting stitch
Straight stitch
(left needle
position)
6
Temporarily securing
Basic stitching and sewing
1
gathers or pintucks (left baseline/
reverse stitching)
Basic stitching and sewing
2
gathers or pintucks (left baseline/
reinforcement stitching)
Straight stitch
(center
needle
position)
Triple stretch
stitch
Basic stitching and sewing
3
gathers or pintucks (center
baseline/reverse stitching)
4
Reinforcing seams and sewing
stretch fabrics
Basting
Sew basting with a stitch length between 5 mm (3/16
inch).
Attach zigzag foot "J".
a
J
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
0.0
(0)
0.0
(0)
0.0
(0)
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
(3/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
––
(3/32)
(3/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
(3/32)
––
2.5
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
2.5
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
2.5
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
2.5
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Basic stitching
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
a
Attach zigzag foot "J".
b
J
Presser
Foot
J
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
Select stitch 6.
b
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
47).
Start sewing.
c
For details, refer to
•
"Starting to sew" (page 49)
78
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
Select a stitch.
c
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
47).
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
d
beginning of the stitching.
.
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Start sewing.
e
• For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page
49).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page
51).
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
f
• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page
52).
■ Changing the needle position
The needle position used as the baseline is
different for the straight stitch (left needle
position) and the straight stitch (center needle
position).
a Straight stitch (left needle position)
b Straight stitch (center needle position)
When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left
needle position) is set to its standard setting
(0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to
the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm
(1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between
0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will
also change. By changing the stitch width and
sewing with the right side of the presser foot
aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam
allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.
3
1
0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0
34 5
6
2
a Stitch width
b Distance from the needle position to the right side
of the presser foot
c 12.0 mm (1/2 inch)
d 10.0 mm (3/8 inch)
e 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
f 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width"
(page 56).
Basic Stitching 79
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Blind Hem Stitching
Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.
Stitch Name Pattern Application
17
Blind hem stitching on
mediumweight fabrics
18
Blind hem stitching on stretch
Blind hem
stitch
fabrics
Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
a
hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch)
from the edge of the fabric.
2
1
a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting stitching
c Desired edge of hem
d 5 mm (3/16 inch)
3
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
0.0
(0)
0.0
(0)
3← – 3→
3← – 3→
2.0
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
Attach blind hem foot "R".
c
R
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
Select a stitch.
d
Presser
Foot
R
Fold back the fabric along the basting, and
b
then position the fabric with the wrong side
facing up.
2
1
a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting
80
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
47).
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
e
hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
then lower the presser foot lever.
R
1
2
3
a Wrong side of fabric
b Fold of hem
c Guide
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Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly
f
catches the fold of the hem.
R
1
a Needle drop point
When you change the needle drop point, raise
the needle, and then change the stitch width.
1
a Stitch width
■ If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold
The needle is too far to the left.
Press to decrease the stitch width so that
the needle slightly catches the fold of the
hem.
■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold
The needle is too far to the right.
Press to increase the stitch width so that
the needle slightly catches the fold of the
hem.
1 2
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch
width" (page 56).
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
g
presser foot guide.
Remove the basting stitching.
h
1 2
3
1 2
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
Blind Hem Stitching 81
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Buttonhole Stitching
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Ten stitches are available for sewing one-step
buttonholes, one for sewing on buttons.
Stitch Name Pattern Application
42
Horizontal buttonholes on thin
and mediumweight fabrics
43
Horizontal buttonholes on areas
that are subject to strain
44
Horizontal buttonholes on thick
fabrics
45
Buttonholes with bar tacks on
both ends for stabilized fabrics
46
47
48
49
Buttonholes for stretch or knit
fabrics
Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
Bound buttonholes
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or
Buttonhole
stitch
plush fabrics
50
Keyhole buttonholes for
mediumweight and thick fabrics
51
Horizontal buttonhole for thick
or plush fabrics
Button-
sewing stitch
55
Button sewing
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
6.0
(15/64)
6.0
(15/64)
5.0
(3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
3.5
(1/8)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
0.0–6.0
(0–15/64)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
2.5–4.5
(3/32–3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.4
(1/64)
0.4
(1/64)
0.4
(1/64)
1.0
(1/16)
1.5
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
0.5
(1/32)
0.5
(1/32)
0.5
(1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32–1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
––M
Presser
Foot
A
82
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Buttonhole sewing
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
1
1
a Reinforcement stitching
The names of parts of buttonhole foot "A", which is
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
1
2
5
1
1
Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position
a
and length of the buttonhole.
3
1
A
a Button guide plate
b Presser foot scale
c Pin
d Marks on buttonhole foot
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
3
4
a Marks on fabric
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
b
foot "A", and then insert the button that will be
put through the buttonhole.
A
Buttonhole Stitching 83
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
47).
1
2
3
a Presser foot scale
b Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of
button)
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of
15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm
(3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set
to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.
1
2
a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
b 15 mm (9/16 inch)
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
Position the fabric with the front end of the
e
buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on
the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
1
A
2
a Mark on fabric (front)
b Red marks on buttonhole foot
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in
the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot.
Attach buttonhole foot "A".
c
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
Select a stitch.
d
84
1
a Do not reduce the gap.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
f
possible.
1
a Buttonhole lever
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The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1
2
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
g
your left hand, and then start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric,
h
and then cut the thread.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
i
position.
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at
j
the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent
the stitching from being cut.
1
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and
k
open the buttonhole.
1
a Seam ripper
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch
to make a hole in the rounded end of the
buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut
open the buttonhole.
1
a Eyelet punch
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
CAUTION
● When opening the buttonhole with the
seam ripper, do not place your hands in
the cutting direction, otherwise injuries
may result if the seam ripper slips.
3
a Pin
■ Changing the density of the stitching
Adjust the stitch length.
• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch
length" (page 57).
• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is
too thick), decrease the density of the
stitching.
Buttonhole Stitching 85
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
■ Changing the stitch width
Adjust the stitch width.
• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch
width" (page 56).
Memo
z Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use
a gimp thread.
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
a
buttonhole foot "A" shown in the illustration.
It fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.
b
Attach buttonhole foot "A".
c
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
Select stitch 46 or 47.
d
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
e
gimp thread.
Lower the presser foot lever and the
f
buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
g
thread to remove any slack.
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
h
thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.
86
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• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
47).
• Since the end of the thread will be tied off
later, do not set the sewing machine for
programmed-thread cutting.
Measure the distance between the holes in the
a
button to be attached.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
b
drop feed lever, located at the rear of the
machine on the base, to (to the left as
seen from the rear of the machine).
1
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
e
the distance between the holes in the button.
Place the button in the position where it will
f
be sewn, and lower the presser foot lever.
1
a Button
X The button is held in place.
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.
3
a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
Attach button-sewing foot "M".
c
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
Select stitch 55.
d
Turn the balance wheel toward you to check
g
that the needle correctly goes into the two
holes of the button.
Adjust the stitch width to the distance between
the button holes.
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the button, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Buttonhole Stitching 87
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Start sewing.
h
Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so
that the speed will be slow).
X The sewing machine automatically stops
after sewing reinforcement stitches.
• Do not press the thread cutter button.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the
i
stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it with the bobbin thread.
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
When you are finished attaching the button,
j
slide the drop feed lever to (to the right
as seen from the rear of the machine) to raise
the feed dogs.
Memo
z The feed dog position switch is normally set
to the right side.
z The feed dogs come up when you start
sewing again.
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Zipper Insertion
A zipper can be sewn in place.
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Straight stitch
(center
needle
position)
Attaching zippers
3
Sewing concealed seams and
pintucks
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
––
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
2.5
(3/32)
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–5.0
Presser
Foot
I
There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side
zipper are described below.
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
c
Inserting a centered zipper
Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted
against each other.
2
1
3
a Right side of fabric
b Stitching
c End of zipper opening
edge of the fabric.
1
3
2
4
a Basting stitching
b Reverse stitches
c Wrong side of fabric
d End of zipper opening
Press open the seam allowance from the
d
wrong side of the fabric.
3
Attach zigzag foot "J".
a
Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.
b
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
• For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page
78).
1
a Wrong side of fabric
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Align the seam with the center of the zipper,
e
and then baste the zipper in place.
2
1
3
a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting stiching
c Zipper
Remove about 5 cm (2 inch) from the end of
f
the basting on the outside.
2
3
a Wrong side of fabric
b Zipper basting
c Outside basting
d 5 mm (2 inch)
4
1
Select stitch 3.
h
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
47).
CAUTION
● When using zipper foot "I", be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the balance
wheel toward you to check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
a different stitch is selected or the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend
or break.
Topstitch around the zipper.
i
1
3
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
g
of zipper foot "I".
1
I
2
a Pin on the right side
b Needle drop point
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
2
4
a Stitching
b Right side of fabric
c Basting stitching
d End of zipper opening
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Remove the basting stitching.
j
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Press open the seam allowance from the
d
Inserting a side zipper
wrong side of the fabric.
Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this
type of zipper for side openings and back openings.
1
2
3
a Stitching
b Right side of fabric
c End of zipper opening
The following procedure will describe how to stitch
on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
Attach zigzag foot "J".
a
Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.
b
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
• For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page
78).
1
a Wrong side of fabric
Press the seam allowance so that the right side
e
(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra
3 mm (1/8 inch).
1
2
a Wrong side of fabric
b 3 mm (1/8 inch)
Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of
f
the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch),
and then baste or pin the zipper in place.
3
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
c
edge of the fabric.
1
3
2
4
a Basting stitching
b Reverse stitches
c Wrong side of fabric
d End of zipper opening
2
1
a Zipper teeth
b Basting stitching
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
g
of zipper foot "I".
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side,
attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of
the zipper foot.
1
I
2
a Pin on the right side
b Needle drop point
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Select stitch 3.
h
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
47).
CAUTION
● When using zipper foot "I", be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the balance
wheel toward you to check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
a different stitch is selected or the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend
or break.
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the
i
extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base
of the zipper.
When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the
j
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever.
Open the zipper and continue sewing.
k
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then
l
baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.
1
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
a Basting stitching
Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin
m
of zipper foot "I".
If the presser foot holder was attached to the
right pin in step
g, change it to the left pin.
1
I
2
a Pin on the left side
b Needle drop point
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Topstitch around the zipper.
n
Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper
opening and align the zipper teeth with the side
of the presser foot.
3
2
4
1
a Right side of fabric
b End of zipper opening
c Reverse stitches
d Beginning of stitching
e Basting stitching
5
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the
o
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and
then raise the presser foot lever.
Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper,
p
and then continue sewing.
3
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Stretch stitch
2-point
zigzag stitch
3-point
zigzag stitch
Elastic-
attaching
stitch
10
5
Stretch fabrics
9
Attaching elastic
28
Attaching elastic to stretch
fabrics
1.0
(1/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stretch stitching
Attach zigzag foot "J".
a
J
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
a
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points
to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.
Select stitch 5.
b
Presser
Foot
J
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
47).
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
c
94
1
2
a Elastic tape
b Pin
Attach zigzag foot "J".
b
J
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 40).
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