Top Flite Nobler User Manual
BUILDING and FLYING the
INTRODUCTION
It has been suggested for several years that a control line stunter would
make a fine radio controlled model The fairly recent advent of miniaturized
radio control systems has permitted testing this possibility The
Nobler
is ideal for
this conversion because of its airfoil planform and structure
The control line
designed by
George
The radio control version of the
Nobler
is the winningest of all control line stunters It was
Aldrich and has been a
Nobler
Top
Flite
kit
for many
has been the project of Ed Sweeney
years
with considerable technical assistance by Fred Marks Many models were built
in developing the Top Flite
R/C Nobler
kit We think it will follow the
winning ways of its line bound ancestor It opens up a new dimension in precision
RC acrobatics
The airplane has a great airfoil with excellent stability, lift, smooth response,
and gentle stall characteristics Thrust and drag forces are near both center of
pressure and gravity It is a relatively symmetrical aircraft — high thrust
line
high
stabilizer,
air foil This symmetry gives the plane its true neutral stability
deep fuselage
cross
section, and mid wing with symmetrical
It
will hold any
reasonable flying attitude almost indefinitely
BEFORE YOU START—READ THIS!
These
instructions
have
been
carefully
developed after
building
several
prototype models We urge you, in your own interest, not to ignore them Our
aim is to insure that the model goes together in a reasonably quick time
and
without annoying snags
Regardless
of previous modeling experience
follow the directions carefully,
checking them off as you go
Notice the instructions often call for some items to be started before others
are complete This is to allow time for important glue joints to dry properly,
yet not hold up building progress Also in order to help modelers of less experience,
we have tended to the easier jobs first, leaving those requiring more care until
later as skill increases.
Do
not
seperate
parts from die cut sheets
until
you
need
them
This
will
save loss or breakage of some of the small or delicate pieces
We are often asked by less-experienced modelers which glues are best
for model construction The answer to this depends upon the particular job
However this is our normal recommendation For all hardwood to hardwood
or hardwood to balsa joints use white wood glue Titebond is especially good,
as
it
drys
faster than other
white
glues and
is
very
strong
For
balsa
to
balsa
joints regular balsa wood cements are ample for the job although white glue
can be used here too Whichever type you use, remember that excess glue is no
substitute for a well fitting joint Use a minimum of glue at all times, and wipe off
excess glue that squeezes out of joints before it sets hard when set it is difficult
to remove, but if not removed it will spoil the covering job
For joints involving flexible items like foam rubber
R/C equipment packing,
contact cement is the only suitable adhesive this should not be used in construction however because it is not sufficiently strong and is very hard to sand
down
properly
One final word to newcomers to the hobby or modelers of limited ex-
perience Join a club! (You can write to the Academy of Model Aeronautics,
1239 Vermont Avenue N W Washington D C 20005, for the address of
your nearest Club Secretary ) Here you will find indispensable guidance and help
from experienced and friendly fellow modelers should you encounter any small
problem in building or flying this model We at Top Flite will do our best to insure
your success, but it is fair to say that nothing can replace personal help or demon-
stration from a good modeler
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SUB-ASSEMBLIES
To speed building, by cutting down "waiting time," it is recommended that
certain components
1. Glue
Fig.
1.
be
sub-assembled
F-2 (ply) doublers to F-l
first.
sides — make a left and a right side. See
2. Make sawcut in one nylon nosewheel bearing as shown and snap bearing
over the formed noseleg between the tiller-arm and the coil. Slip the collar over
the leg from the top, followed by the other nylon bearing. Screw the bearings
to 1/4" ply
F-3
using the 6-32 screws provided.
Fig
2 shows assembled unit
3. Glue F-3 and F-4 (ply) to the shaped motor mounts. See
Fig. 3.
4. Glue two F-20 pieces together as in Fig. 4. Use balsa cement for this joint,
Not white glue.
5. Join elevators with l/4"xl/2"x4" hardwood strip.
6. Glue F-17 to one end of shaped hatch block. See
7. Join parts of wing plan to make one-piece plan. Use
Fig. 5.
scotch tape and lots
of care.
2
FUSELAGE
8. Pin F-ll in position on top view of fuselage. Pin both fuselage sides over
plan upside-down, and glue to
F-ll.
Use Tri-Aids as shown in
Fig. 6
to keep
sides vertical
9. Glue shaped tail block between sides at rear end. Glue F-6 thru F-10 in place.
10 . Glue motor-mount sub-assembly between sides See Fig. 7. Glue 1/2" x 2-3/4
x 11-7/8" block between sides and to
F-3 and F-4.
11. Glue 1/2" triangular longerons to sides and formers, cutting to scarf-
joint at rear end.
WING
12 Pin Tri-Aids to plan in pairs to support mainspars. Slip spars W-18 between
Tri-Aids
but
do
not
pin
to Tri-Aids or
to
plan.
Glue
spars together
at
center
joints only. See Fig. 8.
3
13. Slip all ribs
W-l thru W-12
into spars egg-crate fashion.
Do not
glue joints
at this time! Pin all ribs over plan in correct alignment.
14. Glue 1/4" sq. L.E.'s into ribs, glueing center joint well. Slip bottom
sheets into slots in ribs. When satisfied with position, glue to ribs. See
T.E.
Fig. 9.
15. Use weights to hold structure down, making sure that all rib and spar
tabs are contacting table surface on plan properly. Run glue onto all rib-to-spar
joints.
FUSELAGE
16. Remove fuselage from plan. Glue
F-12
(ply) thru
F-16
in place, then 1/4" sq.
stringer. See Fig. 10.
17. Drill hole through F-17 and glue 1/8" dowel into hatch. Pin or tape hatch
in place on fuselage with dowel projecting through F-12. Drill F-18 (ply) with
1/4" drill at punchmark and slip over the dowel. Glue to F-12, making sure not
to get any glue on the dowel itself.
18. Glue the F-20 sub-assembly onto 1/4" sq. stringer centering the joint on
the stringer carefully. See
Fig. 11.
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