Opel Vectra 1998 1995 User Manual

Page 1

Vauxhall Cavalier

Service and Repair Manual

Steve Rendle and Finn Deacon

Models covered

Vauxhall Cavalier front-wheel-drive models with four-cylinder petrol engines, including special/limited editions; Saloon and Hatchback 1398 cc, 1598 cc, 1796 cc & 1998 cc (inc. DOHC)

Does not cover Diesel engine, V6 engine, air conditioning or four-wheel-drive models

1570 - 320 - 6AA10

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 088 3

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,

Somerset BA22 7JJ

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige

Page 2

LIVING WITH YOUR VAUXHALL CAVALIER

Introduction to the Vauxhall Cavalier Page 0•4 Safety first! Page 0•5

Roadside Repairs

Introduction Page 0•6 If your car won’t start Page 0•6 Jump starting Page 0•7 Wheel changing Page 0•8 Identifying leaks Page 0•9 Towing Page 0•9

Weekly Checks

Introduction Page 0•10 Underbonnet check points Page 0•10 Engine oil level Page 0•12 Coolant level Page 0•12 Screen washer fluid level Page 0•13 Brake fluid level Page 0•13 Power steering fluid level Page 0•14 Electrical system Page 0•14 Battery Page 0•15 Wiper blade Page 0•15 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•16

Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures Page 0•17

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing

Maintenance schedule Page 1•4 Maintenance procedures Page 1•8

Contents

Page 3

REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

SOHC engine procedures Page 2A•1 DOHC engine procedures Page 2B•1 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3•1 Fuel/exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1 Fuel/exhaust systems - fuel injection models Page 4B•1 Fuel/exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions Page 4C•1 Engine electrical systems Page 5•1

Transmission

Clutch Page 6•1 Manual transmission Page 7A•1 Automatic transmission Page 7B•1 Driveshafts Page 8•1

Brakes and Suspension

Braking system Page 9•1 Suspension and steering Page 10•1

Body equipment

Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1 Body electrical systems Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•22

REFERENCE

Dimensions and weights Page REF•1 Conversion factors Page REF•2 Buying spare parts and vehicle identification Page REF•3 General repair procedures Page REF•4 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF•5 Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system Page REF•5 Tools and working facilities Page REF•6 MOT test checks Page REF•8 Fault finding Page REF•12 Glossary of technical terms Page REF•20

Index Page REF•25

Contents

Page 4

0•4

The Cavalier covered by this manual was first introduced to the UK market in October 1988. Although there is a fundamental similarity to its predecessor, the later version is much improved in all respects. This manual covers models with petrol engines and front-wheel-drive, but other models in the range are fitted with diesel engines, and four -wheel drive is available on certain models.

Thirteen derivatives of 1.4, 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre single overhead camshaft (SOHC) versions and 2.0 litre double overhead camshaft (DOHC) petrol engines have been fitted.

The latest ‘ECOTEC’ engines (X 16 SZ and X 20 XEV), have been designed to meet strict EEC exhaust gas limits for 1996.

All the engines are of well-proven design and, provided regular maintenance is carried out, are unlikely to give trouble.

Saloon and Hatchback body styles are available. In it’s later years models started from a well-equipped ‘Envoy’ base model up to the sporty SRi.

Selected models use the floorpan layout of the four-wheel-drive models, to accommodate fully independent rear suspension. Other models in the range have semi-independent torsion beam rear suspension.

A five-speed manual transmission is fitted as standard to all models, and four-speed automatic transmission is available as an option.

A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within the Cavalier range to suit most tastes, including an anti-lock braking system.

Safety features such as front and rear, side impact bars fitted to the inside of doors, were fitted as standard from 1993. During the same year , a full-size drivers airbag was intr oduced. 1994 saw the introduction of airbags for front seat passengers.

For the home mechanic, the Cavalier is a straightforward vehicle to maintain, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible.

Your Vauxhall Cavalier Manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

Cavalier SRi 16v

Hatchback

Cavalier 2.0 litre SRi Saloon

Introduction

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to SykesPickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. Certain illustrations are the copyright of Vauxhall Motors Ltd, and are used with their permission.

Acknowledgements

Page 5

0•5

Safety First!

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Specia hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400

C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

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0•6

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main Chapters.

Roadside repairs

If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals

are clean and tight.

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank, or is the gauge faulty? M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads. (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

Check that the spark plug HT leads are securely connected by pushing them home.

The fuel injection system wiring plug may cause problems if not connected securely.

Check the ECU multi-plug for security (where fitted), with the ignition switched off.

Check the security and condition of the battery connections.

Check that the ignition coil wiring plug is secure, and spray with waterdispersant if necessary.

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Page 7

0•7

Roadside repairs

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out

of trouble, but you must correct

whatever made the battery go

flat in the first place. There are

three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Jump starting

Page 8

0•8

Roadside repairs

Clear the boot area and remove the carpet.

Wheel changing

Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles.

M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon

as it is safe to do so.

M Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.

M Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

M If you have one, use a warning triangle to

alert other drivers of your presence.

M Apply the handbrake and engage first or

reverse gear.

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

one being removed – a couple of large stones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of

wood to spread the load under the foot of the jack.

Changing the wheel

Preparation

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Finally...

M Refit the wheel trim (if applicable) and put the punctured wheel in the boot M Remove the wheel chocks. M Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car.

Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure.

M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

Remove the wheel trim (where fitted) and slacken each wheel bolt by half a turn.

Raise the jack whilst locating below the jacking point (ensure that the jack is on firm ground and located correctly)

Turn the handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground. Remove the bolts and lift the wheel clear.

For safety, place the spare wheel under the car near the jacking point.

Remove the tool holder and unscrew the spare wheel clamp

Position the spare wheel and fit the bolts. Hand tighten with the wheel brace and lower the car to the ground. Tighten

the wheel bolts in a diagonal sequence.

Page 9

0•9

Roadside repairs

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home – or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window. M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. M Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. M Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. M On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required.

M The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. M Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions. M On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result.

Towing

Page 10

0•10

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example;

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.

M Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly . Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.

M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points

1.6 SV model

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion cap

Brake fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Battery

20 SEH model

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion cap

Brake fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Battery

Introduction

Weekly checks

Page 11

0•11

C 20 XE model

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion cap

Brake fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Battery

X 20 XEV model

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion cap

Brake fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Battery

Weekly checks

Page 12

Coolant level

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure that your car is on level ground. 4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See “Lubricants and Fluids”).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil

(see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

0•12

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove

all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze

through the expansion tank filler neck until the coolant reaches the “COLD” level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure.

If topping-up is necessary, wait until the

engine is cold. Slowly turn the expansion tank cap anti-clockwise to relieve the system pressure. Once any pressure is released, turn the cap anti-clockwise unti it can be lifted off.

The coolant level varies with the

temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be near the “COLD” (or “KALT”) mark.

Note the level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the upper

(“MAX”) mark and lower (“MIN”) mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap.

Unscrew the cap and top-up the level. A funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick frequently. Avoid overfilling (see “Car Care”)

The dipstick is often brightly coloured for

easy identification (see “Underbonnet check points” on pages 0•10 and 0•11 for exact location. Withdraw the dipstick

1 2

1 2 3

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick!

Weekly checks

Page 13

Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will freeze during cold weather . On no account use engine antifreeze in the washer system - this could discolour or damage paintwork.

Warning:Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it.

l Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Safety first

l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

Brake fluid level

0•13

Carefully add fluid avoiding spilling it on

surrounding paintwork. Use only the specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely, to prevent leaks and the entry of foreign matter. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

When adding fluid, it’s a good idea to

inspect the reservoir. The system should be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid (see Chapter 9 for details).

The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are

indicated on the side of the reservoir. The fluid level must be kept between the marks.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag

before removing the cap.

3 4

Screen washer fluid level

The windscreen washer fluid reservoir is

located in the rear left-hand corner of the engine compartment. The washer level can be seen through the reservoir body. If topping-up is necessary, open the cap.

When topping-up the reservoir, add a screenwash additive in the quantities

recommended on the bottle.

1 2

• Make sure that your car is on level ground.

• The fluid level in the

master cylinder reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the ‘MIN’ mark.

Weekly checks

Page 14

0•14

Before you start:

4 Park the vehicle on level ground. 4 Set the steering wheel pointing straight-

ahead.

4 The engine should be tur ned off.

Safety First:

l The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

If topping up is required, use the

specified type of fluid, and do not overfill the reservoir. When the level is correct, refit the cap.

Clean the area around the reservoir cap,

then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. When the engine is cold, the fluid should come up to the lower “ADD” mark; when hot, it should come up to the “FULL” mark.

The fluid level is checked with a dipstick

attached to the reservoir filler cap. The reservoir is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment (veiwed from the drivers seat) behind the battery.

1 2 3

For the check to be accurate the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

Power steering fluid level

Weekly checks

Electrical system

To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out.

Fit a new fuse of the same rating, available from car accessory shops. It is important that you find the reason that the fuse blew - a checking procedure is given in Chapter 12.

If more than one indicator light or

headlight has failed it is likely that either a fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (refer to “Electrical fault-finding” in Chapter 12). The fuses are mounted in a panel located at the lower right-hand corner of the facia under a removable cover.

If a single indicator light, brake light or

headlight has failed it is likely that a bulb has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both brake lights have failed, it is possible that the brake light switch above the brake pedal needs adjusting. This simple operation is described in Chapter 9.

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall

or garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

4 Visually check all wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

2 3

Page 15

0•15

To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm

fully away from the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, press the locking tab(s) with your fingers, and slide the blade out of the arm's hooked end. On refitting, ensure that the blade locks securely into the arm.

Check the condition of the wiper blades;

if they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of vision, wiper blades should be renewed annually, as a matter of course.

Weekly checks

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in “Safety first” at the start of this manual.

4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. 4 Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see “Roadside Repairs”.

The battery is located on the left-hand

side of the engine compartment. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover.

Check the tightness of battery clamps (A)

to ensure good electrical connections. You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed conductors.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is

evident, remove the cables from the battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Accessory stores sell a useful tool for cleaning the battery post ...

1 2

... as well as the battery cable clamps

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

Wiper blades

Page 16

0•16

Weekly checks

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car , the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with

the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result. Tyre pressures are shown on the next page.

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known

as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety

bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

1 2 3

Tyre condition and pressure

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s

tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Page 17

0•17

Front Rear

Early models (up to 1993 model year)

1.4 and 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 psi (1.9 bar) 24 psi (1.7 bar)

2.0 litre 8-valve models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.5 psi (2.2 bar) 28.5 psi (2.0 bar)

2.0 litre 16-valve models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 psi (2.5 bar) 33 psi (2.3 bar)

Later models (1993 model year onwards)

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.5 psi (2.0 bar) 26 psi (1.8 bar)

1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.5 psi (2.2 bar) 28.5 psi (2.0 bar)

2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 psi (2.4 bar) 31.5 psi (2.2 bar)

Tyre pressures

Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures

Lubricants and fluids

Component or system Lubricant type/specification

Adhesive sealing compound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall P/N 90485251

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron II type ATF(i.e. P/N 90350342)

Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703F or DOT 4

(i.e. P/N 90007080)

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based antifreeze

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 to

20W/50, to API SG/CD

Locking compound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall P/N 90167347

Long life grease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Molybdenum disulphide grease (MoS2)

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80 EP

(i.e. Vauxhall P/N 90188629)

Power steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron II type ATF (i.e. P/N 90350342)

Sealing compound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall P/N 90094714

Silicone grease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall P/N 90167353

Page 18

Notes

Page 19

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Air inlet temperature control check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Alternator V-belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Automatic transmission check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Bodywork check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Brake pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Brake shoe check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Clutch cable check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Distributor and HT lead check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Door lock key battery - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Driveshaft gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Handbrake linkage check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Headlamp alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Idle speed and mixture - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Ignition timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Lock and hinge check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Manual transmission fluid check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Power steering fluid check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Power steering pump drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Radiator inspection and cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Rear suspension level control system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Spark plug renewal (SOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Spark plug renewal (DOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Throttle linkage maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

1•1

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 20

Lubricants and fluids

Refer to “Weekly Checks”

Capacities

Engine oil

Including filter:

1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 litres

1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres

1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres

20 XEJ and C 20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres

X 20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres

Quantity of oil required to raise level on dipstick from “MIN” to “MAX”:

1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 litre

All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 litre

Cooling system (approx.)

1.4 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.6 litres

1.6 litre models (except C 16 NZ2) - manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 litres

1.6 litre models (except C 16 NZ2) - automatic transmission . . . . . . . . 5.6 litres

C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC models - manual transmission . . . . . 7.2 litres

C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC models - automatic transmission . . . 7.1 litres

DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.2 litres

Transmission

Manual transmission codes:

F10 and F13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litres

F16, F18 and F20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 litres

Automatic - at fluid change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 to 3.5 litres

Difference between dipstick MAX and MIN marks - approximate:

+ 20°C side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 litre

+ 80°C side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 litre

Power steering fluid

Approximately . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 litre

Fuel tank

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63.0 ± 2 litres

Washer fluid

Without headlamp washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.6 litres

With headlamp washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres

Engine

Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion G102

Cooling system

Antifreeze mixture:

28% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -15°C (5°F)

50% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -30°C (-22°F)

Note:

Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.

Fuel system

Note: Ignition timing adjustment is not possible on some models, shown for information only.

For further details refer to Chapters 4A or 4B, as applicable.

Idle speed:

14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 925 ± 25 rpm

16 SV

Manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 925 ± 25 rpm

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 825 ± 25 rpm

18 SV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 925 ± 25 rpm

C 16 NZ and X 16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 80 rpm

C 16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 880 ± 80 rpm

C 18 NZ

Manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 880 ± 80 rpm

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 830 ± 80 rpm

20 NE, C 20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 ± 80 rpm

20 XEJ and C 20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 940 ± 80 rpm

X 20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 160 rpm

1•2 Servicing Specifications

Page 21

Idle mixture CO content:

All carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5%

20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 max.

20 XEJ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 to 1.2%

All other injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 % (at 2800 to 3200 rpm)

Air filter element:

1.4 and 1.6 litre ‘round type’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W103

1.6 and 1.8 litre ‘square type’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U512

1.8 litre ‘round type’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available

2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U554

Fuel filter:

1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre ‘in-line’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L201

Ignition system:

Ignition timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to Chapter 5

Spark plugs

SOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC

DOHC models:

except C20 XE and X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9MCC *

C20 XE and X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall P/N 90444724 (FR8LDC)

Plug gap:

RN9YCC and RC9MCC * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

RN9YC * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm

FR8LDC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 to 0.8 mm

* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations

Brakes

Minimum pad friction material thickness (including backing plate):

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 mm

Minimum shoe friction material thickness:

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 mm above rivet heads

Tyres

Tyre size:

51/2 J x 13 wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 R13-82T

51/2 J x 14 wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/70 R14-82T, 195/60 R14-85H, or 195/60 R14-85V

6J x 15 wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/60 R15-87V or 205/55 R15-87V

Pressures See “Weekly checks”

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Automatic transmission drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Roadwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Engine oil (sump) drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Servicing Specifications 1•3

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,

more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended. Vauxhall recommend that the service intervals are halved for vehicles that are used under these conditions.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, to preserve the factory warranty.

Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and for getting the best in terms of performance and economy from your vehicle. Over the years, the need for periodic lubrication - oiling, greasing, and so on - has been drastically reduced, if not eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some

owners to think that because no action is required, components either no longer exist, or will last for ever. This is certainly not the case; it is essential to carry out regular visual examination comprehensively to spot any possible defects at an early stage before they develop into major expensive repairs.

The following service schedules are a list of the maintenance requirements, and the intervals at which they should be carried out, as recommended by the manufacturers. Where applicable, these procedures are covered in greater detail near the beginning of each relevant Chapter.

Maintenance schedule

Page 22

1•4 Maintenance schedule

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

M Refer to “Weekly checks”

Basic service, every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months whichever comes sooner

Along with the items in “Weekly checks”, carry out the

following:

M Renew the engine oil and oil filter (Section 3). M Check all hoses and other components for fluid

leaks (Section 4).

M Check the steering and suspension components

(Section 5).

M Check the condition of the driveshaft rubber

gaiters (Section 6).

M Check the automatic transmission fluid level (if

applicable), (Section 7).

M Check the radiator for blockage (e.g. dead insects)

and clean as necessary (Section 8).

M Check and adjust the idle speed and mixture (if

applicable), (Section 9).

M Check the throttle linkage and lubricate if

necessary (Section 10).

M Check the exhaust system for corrosion, leaks and

security (Section 11).

M Check all wiring for condition and security

(Section 12).

M Check and adjust the ignition timing (if applicable),

(Section 13).

M Renew the brake fluid (Section 14). M Check the brake pad friction material for wear

(Section 15).

M Check the handbrake linkage (Section 16). M Check the power steering fluid level (if applicable),

(Section 17).

M Check the power steering pump drivebelt (if

applicable), (Section 18).

M Check the rear suspension level control system

height, if fitted (Section 19).

M Check the bodywork (Section 20). M Lubricate all locks and hinges (Section 21). M Check the alternator V-belt (Section 22). M Check the headlamp alignment (Section 23). M Replace battery in the door-lock key (if applicable),

(Section 24).

M Carry out a road test (Section 25).

Note: Vauxhall specify that an Exhaust Emissions Test should be carried out at least annually. However, this requires special equipment, and is performed as part of the MOT test (refer to the end of the manual).

Full service, every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or 24 months whichever comes sooner

Along with the ‘basic service’, carry out the following:

M Renew the coolant (Section 26). M Renew the air cleaner element (Section 27). M Check the operation of the air cleaner air inlet

temperature control (carburettor models only), (Section 28).

M Renew the fuel filter (Section 29). M Renew the spark plugs (SOHC only), (Section 30) *. M Inspect and clean the distributor cap and HT leads

(Section 31).

M Check the clutch cable adjustment (Section 32). M Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 33). M Check the automatic transmission (Section 34). M Check the brake drum shoe for wear (Section 35).

Major service, every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 48 months whichever comes sooner

Along with the ‘full service’, carry out the following:

M Renew timing belt (Section 36). M Renew the spark plugs (DOHC models only),

(Section 37).

M Renew automatic transmission fluid (Section 38) *.

* Note: If a vehicle is used for heavy-duty work (e.g. taxi work, caravan/trailer towing, mostly short-distance, stop-start city driving) the fluid must be changed every 36 months or 27 000 miles (45 000 km), whichever occurs first.

Page 23

Maintenance - component location 1•5

Underbonnet view of a 1989 1.6 L model (16 SV engine)

1 VIN plate 2 Air cleaner casing * 3 Suspension strut top 4 Coolant expansion tank 5 Brake fluid reservoir 6 Fuel pump 7 Steering rack 8 Octane rating plug 9 Washer fluid reservoir 10 Battery 11 Ignition coil 12 Distributor (Bosch type) 13 Cooling fan motor 14 Engine oil level dipstick 15 Oil filter 16 Oil filler cap

* Refer to Chapter 4A for

alternative type

Underbonnet view of a 1991 model Cavalier 1.6 L (C16 NZ engine)

1 Air cleaner casing 2 Suspension strut top 3 Coolant expansion tank 4 Brake fluid reservoir 5 Air box 6 Exhaust gas recirculation valve 7 Steering gear 8 Octane coding plug 9 Washer fluid reservoir 10 Battery 11 Ignition coil 12 Distributor 13 Cooling fan motor 14 Engine oil level dipstick 15 Engine oil filter 16 Oxygen sensor 17 Engine oil filler cap

Page 24

1•6 Maintenance - component location

Underbonnet view of a 1989 2.0 SRi model (20 SEH engine)

1 VIN plate 2 Air cleaner casing 3 Airflow meter 4 Suspension strut top 5 Coolant expansion tank 6 Brake fluid reservoir 7 Throttle body 8 Relay box 9 Octane rating plug 10 Washer fluid reservoir 11 Battery 12 Power steering fluid reservoir 13 Power steering fluid hoses 14 Distributor cap 15 Engine oil level dipstick 16 Idle speed adjuster 17 Fuel pressure regulator 18 Oil filler cap 19 Thermostat housing

Underbonnet view of a 1990 GSi 2000 model (20 XEJ engine)

1 VIN plate 2 Air cleaner casing 3 Suspension strut top 4 Coolant expansion tank 5 Brake fluid reservoir 6 Air mass meter 7 Fuel pressure regulator 8 Relay box 9 Anti-theft alarm horn 10 ABS hydraulic modulator 11 Washer fluid reservoir 12 Power steering fluid reservoir 13 Battery 14 Distributor 15 Engine oil level dipstick 16 Oil filler cap

Page 25

Maintenance - component location 1•7

Front underbody view of a 1989 1.6 L model (16 SV engine)

1 Brake caliper 2 Subframe 3 Oil filter 4 Clutch cover plate 5 Suspension lower arm 6 Differential cover plate 7 Engine oil drain plug 8 Driveshaft gaiter 9 Exhaust pipe 10 Anti-roll bar securing nut

Rear underbody view of a 1989 2.0 SRi model (semi-independent rear suspension)

1 Torsion beam 2 Trailing arm 3 Anti-roll bar 4 Shock absorber 5 Coil spring 6 Exhaust expansion box 7 Fuel flow damper 8 Fuel filter 9 Fuel tank securing strap 10 Handbrake cable

Page 26

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle according to the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive

plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwiseunrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is found, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

If, from the time the vehicle is new, routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, frequent checks made of fluid levels and highwear items, as recommended, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition. The need for additional work will be minimised

It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals.

If engine wear is suspected, a compression

1•8 Maintenance - component location

Rear underbody view of a 1990 GSi 2000 model (fully independent rear suspension)

1 Fuel tank securing strap 2 Shock absorber 3 ABS wheel sensor 4 Semi-trailing arm 5 Suspension crossmember mounting bracing bracket 6 Handbrake cable 7 Suspension crossmember 8 Exhaust expansion box 9 Fuel pump

Maintenance procedures

Page 27

test (refer to Chapter 2A) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine. It may also prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first.

The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See

“Weekly Checks”)

b) Check all the engine related fluids (See

“Weekly Checks”)

c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt (Sections 18 and 22, as appropriate).

d) Renew the spark plugs (Sections 30 and

37, as appropriate).

e) Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and

HT leads, as applicable (Section 31).

f) Check the condition of the air filter, and

renew if necessary (Section 27). g) Check the fuel filter (Section 29). h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 4).

i) Check the idle speed and mixture

settings, as applicable (Section 9).

5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations

All items listed under “Primary operations”, plus the following:

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5). b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5). c) Check the fuel system (Chapters 4A and

4B).

d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm

(Section 31).

e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 31).

3 Engine oil and filter - renewal

1 Ideally, the oil should be drained with the engine hot, just after the vehicle has been driven. 2 On DOHC models, remove the engine undershield to expose the sump drain plug and the oil filter. 3 Place a container beneath the oil drain plug at the rear of the sump. 4 Remove the oil filler cap from the camshaft cover, then using a socket or spanner, unscrew the oil drain plug, and allow the oil to drain (see illustration). Take care to avoid scalding if the oil is hot.

5 Allow ten to fifteen minutes for the oil to drain completely, then move the container and position it under the oil filter.

6 On 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, improved access to the oil filter can be gained by jacking up the front of the vehicle and removing the right-hand roadwheel (see illustration). Ensure that the handbrake is applied, and that the vehicle is securely supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Note that further oil may drain from the sump as the vehicle is raised. 7 Using a strap wrench or a filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter and unscrew it from the mounting. Alternatively, if the filter is very tight, a screwdriver can be driven through the filter casing and used as a lever. Discard the filter. 8 Wipe the mating face on the filter mounting with a lint-free rag, then smear the sealing ring of the new filter with clean engine oil of the specified grade. 9 Screw the new filter into position and tighten it by hand only, do not use any tools. 10 Where applicable, refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. Fully tighten the roadwheel bolts with the vehicle resting on its wheels. 11 Examine the condition of the oil drain plug sealing ring and renew if necessary, then refit the drain plug and tighten it to the specified torque.

12 Refill the engine through the filler on the camshaft cover, using the specified grade and quantity of oil. Fill until the level reaches the “MAX” mark on the dipstick, allowing time for the oil to drain through the engine to the sump. 13 Refit the oil filler cap, then start the engine and check for leaks. Note that the oil pressure warning lamp may stay illuminated for a few seconds when the engine is started as the oil filter fills with oil. 14 Stop the engine and recheck the oil level, topping-up if necessary. 15 On DOHC models, refit the engine undershield. 16 Dispose of the old engine oil safely; do not pour it down a drain.

4 Hose and fluid leak check

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Remember that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this manual.

Every 9000 miles or 12 months 1•9

3.6 Oil filter viewed through right-hand wheel arch - SOHC model

3.4 Sump drain plug location -

2.0 litre DOHC model

(engine undershield removed)

Basic service, every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months

As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away quickly so the stream

of oil, running out of the sump, goes into the container not up your sleeve (see illustration).

Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.

Page 28

2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place, and in good condition. Clips that are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems in the future. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose that is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. It is always beneficial to renew hose clips whenever possible. 4 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses, joint faces, etc.) for leaks.

5 Where any problems are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 6 Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration. 7 With the vehicle raised, inspect the petrol tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 8 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 9 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 10 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.

5 Steering and suspension

check

Front suspension and steering check

1 Raise the front of the car, and support on axle stands (“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid wear of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 Inspect the front suspension lower arms for distortion or damage (Chapter 10, Section 5). 8 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back and forth about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the rackand-pinion steering gear itself.

Suspension strut/shock absorber check

Note: Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle.

9 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective internally, and should be renewed. 10 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. The body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the suspension strut/shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the suspension strut/shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.

6 Driveshaft gaiter check

With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands, turn the steering onto full lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds (see illustration). Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed as described in Chapter 8.

1•10 Every 9000 miles or 12 months

6.1 Check the condition of the driveshaft gaiters (A) and clips (B)

5.4 Check for wear in the hub bearings by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it

A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak

Page 29

At the same time, check the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.

7 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

Note: The transmission fluid level can be checked either when it is cold (only below 35ºC (100ºF) outside temperature) or when it is fully warmed up to normal operating temperature (after driving for a distance of approximately 12 miles/20 km). Since the fluid level must be checked with the engine running, ensure that the vehicle is parked on level ground with the handbrake firmly applied before leaving the driver’s seat. Be careful to keep loose clothing, long hair, etc., well clear of hot or moving components when working under the bonnet

Transmission cold

1 Park the vehicle on level ground and apply

the handbrake firmly. With the engine running at no more than idle speed and your foot firmly on the brake pedal, move the selector lever through all positions, ending in position “P”. Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then check the level within two minutes. 2 With the engine still idling and position “P” still selected, open the bonnet and withdraw the transmission dipstick from the filler tube located in the front of the transmission casing, at the left-hand end of the engine. 3 Note the fluid’s condition (see below), then wipe clean the dipstick using a clean, non-fluffy rag, insert it fully back into the tube and withdraw it again. 4 The level should be up to the “MAX” mark on the “+20°C” side of the dipstick (see

illustration). 5 If topping-up is required, switch off the

ignition and add only good quality fluid of the specified type through the filler tube. If

significant amounts of fluid are being lost (carefully note the amounts being added, and how often), check the transmission for leaks and either repair the fault or take the vehicle to a Vauxhall dealer for attention. 6 When the level is correct, ensure that the dipstick is pressed firmly into the filler tube.

Transmission fully warmed up

7 Work exactly as described above, but take

the level reading from the “+ 80°C” side of the dipstick. In this case, the level must be between the dipstick “MAX” and “MIN” marks.

Checking the fluid’s condition

8 Whenever the fluid level is checked,

examine the condition of the fluid and compare its colour, smell and texture with that of new fluid. 9 If the fluid is dark, almost black, and smells burnt, it is possible that the transmission friction material is worn or disintegrating. The vehicle should be taken to a Vauxhall dealer or automatic transmission specialist for immediate attention. 10 If the fluid is milky, this is due to the presence of emulsified droplets of water. This may be caused either by condensation after a prolonged period of short journeys or by the entry of water through the dipstick/filler tube or breather. If the fluid does not revert to its normal appearance after a long journey it must be renewed or advice should be sought from a Vauxhall dealer or automatic transmission specialist. 11 If the fluid is varnish-like (i.e. light to dark brown and tacky) it has oxidised due to overheating or to over or under filling. If renewal of the fluid does not cure the problem, the vehicle should be taken to a Vauxhall dealer or automatic transmission specialist for immediate attention. 12 If at any time on checking the fluid level or on draining the fluid, particles of dirt, metal chips or other foreign matter are found in the fluid, the vehicle must be taken to a Vauxhall dealer or automatic transmission specialist for immediate attention. It may be necessary to strip, clean and reassemble at least the valve body, if not the complete transmission, to rectify any fault.

8 Radiator inspection and

cleaning

1 Inspect radiator for leaks or corrosion, especially around the outlet or inlet connectors. 2 Clean the radiator with a soft brush or compressed air. Remove any debris, like dead insects or leaves. 3 If leaks are visible, replace radiator. Refer to Chapter 3, if necessary.

9 Idle speed and mixture -

adjustment

Note: On certain models, the idle and mixture are automatically adjusted by a control unit, therefore cannot be altered.

Refer to Chapters 4A or 4B as applicable.

10 Throttle linkage

maintenance

On models built before 1992, lubricate the throttle linkage, as described in Chapters 4A or 4B, as applicable.

11 Exhaust system check

1 With the engine off, check the security of the exhaust system. Pay particular attention to the rubber mountings that suspend the exhaust. 2 Start the engine and check underneath for leaks, which can be heard. This job is made easier if you have access to a ramp. 3 Listen for exhaust leaks from around the front pipe to exhaust manifold joint.

4 For further information, refer to Chapter 4C

12 Wiring check

1 Check all wiring in both the engine compartment and under the car.

2 Ensure that all wiring clips/clamps are secure. 3 Pay particular attention to wiring near

components that get hot, i.e. exhaust systems. 4 Make sure that electrical connections are secure and undamaged.

13 Ignition timing

Refer to Chapter 5 for details.

Every 9000 miles or 12 months 1•11

7.4 When checking the fluid level, ensure side of dipstick used corresponds with

fluid temperature

Warning: Voltages produced by an electronic ignition system are considerably higher than

those produced by conventional ignition systems. Extreme care must be taken when working on the system with the ignition switched on. Persons with surgically implanted cardiac pacemaker devices should keep away from the ignition circuits, components and test equipment.

Page 30

14 Brake fluid renewal

Renew the brake and bleed the system.

Refer to Chapter 9 for full details.

15 Brake pad check

With the front or rear (as applicable) of the vehicle raised, remove the wheels and check brake pads for wear. Renew the pads if the lining is below that specified. See Chapter 9, for specifications and full details.

16 Handbrake linkage check

With the vehicle raised, check the operation of the handbrake and lubricate the linkages. Refer to Chapter 9, for further details.

17 Power steering fluid check

1 With the engine off, remove the cap from the power steering reservoir. It is fitted with a dipstick. 2 The fluid should be visible up to the ‘MAX’ mark (1), (see illustration). If not, top it up using specified fluid. 3 Start the engine and immediately top-up the fluid to the ‘MIN’ mark (2).

4 Do not allow the reservoir to run dry. 5 For details on how to bleed the system,

refer to Chapter 10.

18 Power steering pump

drivebelt check

Note: Vauxhall specify the use of a special gauge. Checking values for use with this gauge are given in the Specifications in Chapter 10, for reference.

Checking

1 The correct belt tension can be approximated by adjusting the length of the threaded rod. This should give a belt deflection of approximately 10.0 mm (0.4 in) under moderate thumb pressure at the midpoint of the belt run between the pulleys. If in doubt, err on the slack side, as an excessively tight belt may cause pump damage. 2 Check the condition of the belt and renew it if there are any signs of damage or excessive wear

Adjustment

3 Slacken the adjuster and mounting bolts. 4 Slacken the adjuster nuts, and adjust the

length of the threaded rod to remove or tension the belt as desired (see illustration). 5 Tighten the adjuster nuts, and tighten the adjuster and mounting bolts to the specified torque (see Chapter 10), on completion. 6 If a new drivebelt has been fitted, recheck the tension after a few hundred miles.

19 Rear suspension level

control system check

Refer to Chapter 10, for details.

20 Bodywork check

1 Clean the outside of the vehicle. If possible, clean underneath as well. If using a pressure cleaner take care not to damage any electrical components, especially in the engine compartment. 2 Check all around for signs of damage or corrosion and treat accordingly. Repair stone chips when you can to prevent rusting.

3 Read Chapter 11, for more details.

21 Lock and hinge check

1 Lubricate locks and hinges on all doors, tailgates (or boot lid) and bonnet. 2 Check for wear or damage and ensure correct operation of safety catches. 3 Check security of the bonnet stay and it’s securing clip.

4 Read Chapter 11, for further details.

22 Alternator V-belt check

Note: The new ribbed V-belt, fitted to later models, can not be adjusted.

1 Although special tools are available for measuring the belt tension, a good approximation can be achieved. Tension the belt so that there is approximately 13.0 mm (0.5 in) of free movement under firm thumb pressure at the mid-point of the longest run between pulleys. 2 With the mounting bolts just holding the unit, lever the alternator away from the engine using a wooden lever at the mounting bracket end until the correct tension is achieved. Then

1•12 Every 9000 miles or 12 months

17.2 Topping-up the power steering fluid level

18.4 Adjusting the length of the power steering pump threaded rod

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so

use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Old hydraulic fluid is usually darker in colour than new fluid.

For a quick check, the thickness of the friction material on each brake pad can be measured through the aperture in the caliper body.

Page 31

tighten the mounting nuts and bolts. On no account lever at the free end of the alternator, as serious internal damage could be caused.

3 For details of replacement, see Chapter 5.

23 Headlamp alignment

Refer to Chapter 12 for details.

24 Door lock key battery -

replacement

1 Carefully prise open the outer cover from the key. Take care not to lose any of the internal components, as they are loose.

2 Remove the battery and discard it safely. 3 Place the new battery, “+” side up (see illustration). Check the operation of the key. If

the bulb does not light obtain a replacement.

4 Replace the outer cover.

25 Road test

Instruments and electrical equipment

1 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn to check that it functions properly.

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road “feel”. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises.

5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering, or when driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch, transmission and driveshafts. 7 Turn the radio/cassette off and listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that the clutch action is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 Check that all gears can be engaged smoothly, without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”. 11 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a driveshaft joint, in which case, the complete driveshaft must be renewed (see Chapter 8).

26 Coolant renewal

Refer to Chapter 3 for details.

27 Air cleaner element - renewal

Early round type

1 Release the spring clips from the perimeter of the air cleaner cover. 2 Unscrew and remove the small cross-head screw securing the cover extension to the main body near the inlet duct.

3 Unscrew and remove the three central cross-head cap nuts securing the air cleaner to the carburettor, taking care not to drop the washers and seals (see illustration). 4 Separate the cover from the main body, then lift out the element (see illustration). 5 Wipe clean the inside surfaces of the cover and main body. 6 Locate the new element in the air cleaner body, and refit the cover using a reversal of the removal procedure.

Square type with air box

7 If desired, to improve access, unclip the coolant expansion tank hose from the air cleaner cover. 8 Release the two clips from the left-hand side of the cover, and unscrew the two screws from the right-hand side, then lift the cover sufficiently to remove the element. 9 Wipe clean the inside surfaces of the cover and main body. 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting that the element fits with the rubber locating flange uppermost.

Every 18 000 miles or 24 months 1•13

24.3 Replacing the battery in the door lock key

1 Battery (note, positive ‘+’ side up) 2 Bulb

27.4 Removing the air cleaner element note clip for crankcase ventilation hose

(arrowed)

27.3 Air cleaner-to-carburettor mounting cap nuts

Full service, every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or 24 months

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting the procedure. Do not allow

antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or with painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container. Always clean spilt fluids, as it can be harmful if swallowed.

Page 32

28 Air inlet temperature control

check (carburettor models only)

Refer to Chapter 4A for details.

29 Fuel filter renewal

Fuel filters are fitted in various locations throughout the range. Some may be ‘in-line’ in the fuel tank itself, or fitted into the carburettor.

Refer to Chapters 4A or 4B, as appropriate.

30 Spark plug renewal (SOHC)

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine. Refer to the specifications in Chapter 5. If this type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled service replacement intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 Identify each HT lead for position so that the leads can be refitted to their correct cylinders. Then disconnect the leads from the plugs by pulling on the connectors, not the leads. 3 Clean the area around each spark plug using a small paintbrush, then using a plug

spanner (preferably with a rubber insert), unscrew and remove the plugs (see illustration). Cover the spark plug holes with a clean rag to prevent the ingress of any foreign matter. 4 The condition of the spark plugs will tell much about the overall condition of the engine. 5 If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is a sign of a weak mixture, or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly - a cold plug transfers heat away quickly). 6 If the tip and insulator nose is covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 7 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish brown deposits, then the mixture is correct, and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 8 The spark plug gap is of considerable importance, because if it is either too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The spark plug gap should be set to the figure given in the Specifications, in Chapter 5. 9 To set it, measure the gap with a feeler blade and then bend open, or close, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved. The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if nothing worse (see

illustrations).

10 Before fitting new spark plugs check that

their threaded connector sleeves are tight.

11 Screw in the plugs by hand, then tighten them to the specified torque. Do not exceed the torque figure. 12 Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark plugs, ensuring that they are connected to their correct cylinders.

31 Distributor cap and HT lead

check

1 Remove the distributor cap and HT leads, and wipe them clean.

2 Also wipe clean the coil connections. Remove the rotor arm, then visually check the distributor cap, rotor arm and HT leads for hairline cracks, and signs of arcing.

1•14 Every 18 000 miles or 24 months

30.9A Tools required for spark plug

removal, gap adjustment and refitting

30.9C Measuring the spark plug gap with feeler blade

30.9B Measuring the spark plug gap with wire gauge

30.3 Removing a spark plug

Warning: Before carrying out the following operation, refer to the precautions given in “Safety

first!” at the beginning of this manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed.

It is very often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without crossthreading them. To avoid this, fit a short length of 8 mm (internal diameter), rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint to help align the plug correctly. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing damage to the thread in the cylinder head.

Number the HT leads before removal to ensure correct refitting.

Page 33

3 When refitting the distributor cap, check that the ends of the HT leads are fitted securely to the cap, plugs and coil. Also make sure that the spring-tensioned carbon brush in the centre of the distributor cap moves freely, and that the HT segments are not worn excessively. 4 Inspect the electrical and vacuum connections of the ignition/engine management systems, and make sure that they are clean and secure.

32 Clutch cable check

Check the clutch cable adjustment, as

described in Chapter 6.

Check also, the condition of the cable. Inspect the cable strands for fraying, and ensure that the cable is correctly routed, to avoid chafing against surrounding components. Renew the cable, as described in Chapter 6, if excessive wear or damage is evident.

33 Manual transmission fluid

check

Note: Models built after 1994 it is no longer necessary to check levels.

1 Ensure that the vehicle is on level ground. 2 Unscrew the transmission oil level plug,

which is located in the rear left of the differential housing on F10 and F13 transmissions, and in the rear right of the differential housing on F16 and F20 transmissions (see illustrations). The oil level should be up to the bottom of the level plug orifice. 3 If necessary, top-up the oil level through the breather/filler orifice in the gear selector cover. Unscrew the breather/filler plug, and top-up with the specified grade of oil, until oil just begins to run from the level plug orifice. Refit the level plug and the breather/filler plug on completion (see illustrations). 4 Renewal of the transmission oil is not specified by the manufacturers, and no drain plug is provided. If it is desired to renew the oil as a precaution, the oil may be drained by removing the differential cover plate. Use a new gasket when refitting the cover plate. Fill

the transmission through the breather/filler orifice, as described previously in this Section. 5 Periodically inspect the transmission for oil leaks, and check the gear selector linkage components for wear and smooth operation.

34 Automatic transmission

check

1 Carry out a thorough road test, ensuring that all gearchanges occur smoothly, without snatching and with no increase in engine speed between changes. 2 Check the operation of the kickdown. Check that all gear positions can be engaged at the appropriate movement of the selector lever and with the vehicle at rest, check that the operation of the parking pawl in position “P” prevents it from being moved. Ensure that the starter motor will work only with the selector lever in positions “P” or “N”, and that

the reversing lamps light only when position “R” is selected. 3 The manufacturer’s schedule calls for a regular check of the electrical control system using the special Vauxhall test equipment; owners will have to have this check carried out by a Vauxhall dealer. 4 Periodically inspect the transmission casing, checking all joint surfaces and seals for signs of fluid leaks. If any are found, the fault must be rectified immediately. 5 Check also that the transmission breather hose (under the battery mounting bracket) is clear and not blocked, kinked or twisted.

35 Brake shoe check

Note: On models fitted with rear brake pads, the handbrake operates brake shoes that are located inside the rear brake discs.

Refer to Chapter 9, for details.

Every 18 000 miles or 24 months 1•15

33.3A Transmission breather/filler plug (arrowed) - F16 type transmission

33.3B Topping-up the transmission oil level - F13 type transmission

33.2B Transmission oil level plug

(arrowed) - F16 type transmission (viewed

from below, with driveshaft removed)

33.2A Transmission oil level plug

(arrowed) - F13 type transmission (viewed

from above)

Page 34

36 Timing belt renewal

1 To minimise risk of major damage to the engine the timing belt (or cambelt, as it is sometimes called), needs replacing at least, on every major service. 2 It is good practise however, not only to renew the belt whenever major engine work is carried out, but also if you buy a used car with unclear service history. 3 Some models are fitted with an inspection cover to view the condition of the belt. Whilst others involve a lot more work. 4 Full details on checking and replacement are shown in Chapters 2A or 2B, as appropriate.

37 Spark plug renewal (DOHC)

1 This procedure is basically the same shown in Section 30. However on these models, a spark plug cover needs to be removed from the camshaft cover before the plugs can be removed. 2 Take great care when removing and refitting spark plugs on these engines (see illustration). Hairline cracks in the ceramic of the plug can cause occasional or complete ignition failure. Damage to the catalytic converter may also occur. 3 Special tool (Vauxhall No. KM-194-B), with a 3 part conical sliding element have been

made available, to reduce the risk of plug damage (see illustration). 4 After refitting the spark plugs, remember to replace the plug cover.

38 Automatic transmission fluid

renewal

Renew the transmission fluid as detailed in

Chapter 7B.

1•16 Every 36 000 miles or 48 months

37.3 Removing spark plugs using special adapter (DOHC models)

A Torque wrench B Extension

C Joint D Special adapter (P/N KM-194-B)

37.2 Removing a spark plug DOHC model

Major service, every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 48 months

Page 35

General

Type

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, water-cooled, transversely mounted at front of

vehicle. Single belt-driven overhead camshaft, acting on hydraulic valve lifters

Manufacturer’s engine codes:

14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.4 litre (1389 cc)

16 SV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (1598 cc)

X16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (1598 cc) ‘Ecotec’ type engine

C16 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (1598 cc) + catalyst

C16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (1598 cc) + catalyst

18 SV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 litre (1796 cc)

C18 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 litre (1796 cc) + catalyst

20 NE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litre (1998 cc)

20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litre (1998 cc) + early SRi

C20 NE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litre (1998 cc) + catalyst

Pistons: Bore (mm) Stroke (mm)

14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.6 73.4

16 SV, C16 SV, C16 NZ and X16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.0 81.5

C16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.0 79.5

18 SV and C18 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.8 79.5

20 NE, 20 SEH and C20 NE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.0 86.0

Chapter 2 Part A:

SOHC engine procedures

Camshaft front oil seal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Camshaft housing and camshaft - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Camshaft housing and camshaft - dismantling, inspection and

reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Camshaft rear oil seal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Camshafts, “undersize” C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines -

general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Compression test - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Crankcase ventilation system - description and maintenance . . . . . . .2

Crankshaft and bearings - examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Crankshaft and bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Cylinder block and bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . .36

Cylinder head - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Cylinder head - inspection and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . .20

Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine removed) . . . . . . . . . . .21

Engine - removal and refitting (leaving transmission in car) . . . . . . . . .7

Engine and transmission mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Engine and transmission - removal, separation, reconnection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine dismantling and reassembly - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Examination and renovation - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Flexplate (automatic transmission) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .26

Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Hydraulic valve lifters - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Initial start-up after major overhaul or repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . . . .4

Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Method of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . . .33

Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Timing belt and sprockets (without automatic tensioner) - removal,

refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Timing belt and tensioner 1.4 and 1.6 models (not C16 NZ2) - removal,

refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Timing belt and tensioner C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre - removal, refitting

and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Timing belt cover aperture, 1.4 and 1.6 models - general . . . . . . . . .13

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 36

Compression ratio

14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4 : 1

16 SV, X16 SZ, 18 SV and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 : 1

C16 NZ, C16 NZ2, C18 NZ, 20 NE and C20 NE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.2 : 1

Maximum power:

14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 kW (75 bhp) at 5600 rpm

16 SV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 kW (82 bhp) at 5400 rpm

X16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 kW (71 bhp) at 5000 rpm

C16 NZ and C16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 kW (75 bhp) at 5200 rpm

18 SV and C18 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 kW (90 bhp) at 5400 rpm

20 NE and C20 NE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 kW (116 bhp) at 5200 rpm

20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 kW (129 bhp) at 5600 rpm

Maximum torque:

14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Nm at 3000 rpm

X16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Nm at 2800 rpm

16 SV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Nm at 2600 rpm

C16 NZ and C16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Nm at 2800 rpm

18 SV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Nm at 2800 rpm

C18 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Nm at 3000 rpm

20 NE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Nm at 2600 rpm

20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Nm at 4600 rpm

C20 NE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Nm at 2600 rpm

Firing order:

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)

Cylinder block:

Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cast iron

Maximum permissible bore out-of round . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 mm

Maximum permissible bore taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 mm

Maximum permissible rebore oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 mm

Crankshaft and bearings

Number of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Main bearing journal diameter (mm):

14 NV, 16 SV, C16 NZ and X16 SZ

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.980 to 54.997

0.25mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.730 to 54.747

0.50mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.482 to 54.495

C16 NZ2, 18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.974 to 57.995

0.25mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.732 to 57.745

0.50mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.482 to 57.495

Main bearing shell colour codes: Bearing cap shells Cylinder block shells

14 NV, 16 SV, C16 NZ and X16 SZ

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown Green

0.25 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown/blue Green/blue

0.50 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown/white Green/white

C16 NZ2, 18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown/green/white

0.25mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown/blue and Green/blue

0.50mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown/white and Green/white

Centre (thrust) main bearing journal width (mm):

14 NV, 16 SV, C16 NZ and X 16 SZ

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.000 to 26.052

0.25mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.200 to 26.252

0.50mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.400 to 26.452

C16 NZ2, 18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25.950 to 26.002

0.25mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.150 to 26.202

0.50mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.350 to 26.402

Big-end bearing journal diameter (mm):

14 NV, 16 SV, C16 NZ and X16 SZ

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.971 to 42.987

0.25mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.721 to 42.737

0.50mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.471 to 42.487

C16 NZ2, 18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.970 to 48.988

0.25mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.720 to 48.738

0.50mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.470 to 48.488

2A•2 SOHC engine procedures

Page 37

Crankshaft and bearings (continued)

Big-end bearing shell colour codes (all models):

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . None

0.25 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Blue

0.50 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . White

Main and big-end bearing journal out-of-round (all models) . . . . . . . . . 0.04 mm maximum

Main bearing permissible movement (mm):

14 NV, 16 SV, C16 NZ and X16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.017 to 0.047

C16 NZ2, 18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.040

Big-end bearing permissible movement (mm):

14 NV, 16 SV, C16 NZ and X16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.019 to 0.071

C16 NZ2, 18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.031

Crankshaft endfloat (mm):

14 NV, 16 SV, C16 NZ and X16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 to 0.2

C16 NZ2, 18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.152

Connecting rod endfloat (mm) (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 to 0.24

Piston and cylinder bores (Ø in mm) Bore diameter Piston dia ID mark

14 NV:

Production size 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.56 77.54 6

77.57 77.55 7

77.58 77.56 8

Production size 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.59 77.57 99

77.60 77.58 00

77.61 77.59 01

77.62 77.60 02

0.5 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78.07 78.05 7 + 0.5

16 SV, C16 NZ and X16 SZ:

Production size 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78.95 78.93 5

78.96 78.94 6

78.97 78.95 7

78.98 78.96 8

Production size 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78.99 78.97 99

79.00 78.98 00

79.01 78.99 01

79.02 79.00 02

Production size 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.03 79.01 03

79.04 79.02 04

79.05 79.03 05

79.06 79.04 06

Production size 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.07 79.05 07

79.08 79.06 08

79.09 79.07 09

79.10 79.08 1

0.5 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.48 79.45 7 + 0.5

C16 NZ2:

Production . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.98 n/a 98

79.90 n/a 99

80.00 n/a 00

80.01 n/a 01

80.02 n/a 02

18 SV and C18 NZ:

Production size 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.78 mm 84.76 mm 8

Production size 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.79 mm 84.77 mm 99

84.80 mm 84.78 mm 00

84.81 mm 84.79 mm 01

84.82 mm 84.80 mm 02

0.5 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85.27 mm 85.25 mm 7 + 0.5

20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH:

Production size 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85.98 mm 85.96 mm 8

Production size 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85.99 mm 85.97 mm 99

86.00 mm 85.98 mm 00

86.01 mm 85.99 mm 01

86.02 mm 86.00 mm 02

0.5 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.47 mm 86.45 mm 7 + 0.5

Piston clearance in bore (mm) (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 to 0.04

SOHC engine procedures 2A•3

Page 38

Piston rings

Number (per piston) (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 compression, 1 oil control

Ring end gap (mm):

Compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5

Oil control (top and bottom sections) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 to 1.4

Ring gap offset (to gap of adjacent ring)* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180º

* See Section 32 for oil control ring sections

Cylinder head

Material (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light alloy

Maximum permissible distortion of sealing face (all models) . . . . . . . . . 0.025 mm

Height of cylinder head (sealing surface to sealing surface) (all models) . . 96.00 ± 0.25 mm Valve seat width (mm):

14 NV, 16 SV, C16 NZ, X 16 SZ and C16 NZ2

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 1.5

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 to 1.8

18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.5

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7 to 2.2

Camshaft

Camshaft bearing journal diameter: Normal (mm) 0.1 mm undersize

14 NV, 16 SV, C16 NZ and X16 SZ:

No 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.435 to 39.455

No 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.685 to 39.705

No 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.935 to 39.955

No 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.185 to 40.205

No 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.435 to 40.455

C16 NZ2, 18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH:

No 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.455 to 42.470 42.355 to 42.370

No 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.705 to 42.720 42.605 to 42.620

No 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.955 to 42.970 42.855 to 42.870

No 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.205 to 43.220 43.105 to 43.120

No 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.455 to 43.470 43.355 to 43.370

Camshaft bearing diameter in housing:

14 NV, 16 SV, C16 NZ and X16 SZ:

No 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.500 to 39.525

No 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.750 to 39.775

No 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.000 to 40.025

No 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.250 to 40.275

No 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.500 to 40.525

C16 NZ2, 18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH:

No 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.500 to 42.525 42.400 to 42.425

No 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.750 to 42.775 42.650 to 42.675

No 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.000 to 43.025 42.900 to 42.925

No 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.250 to 43.275 43.150 to 43.175

No 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.500 to 43.525 43.400 to 43.425

Cam lift (mm):

14 NV (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.12

16 SV and C16 NZ:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.61

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.12

C16 NZ2, 18 SV and C18 NZ

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.01

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.39

C20 NE and 20 NE (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.67

20 SEH (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.70

Maximum permissible radial run-out (mm) (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04

Endfloat (mm) (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.09 to 0.21

Timing belt (engines without automatic tension roller)

Tension, using Vauxhall gauge KM-51 0-A (see Section 11):

14NV, 16 SV and C16 NZ:

New belt, cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5

New belt, warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0

Used belt, cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0

Used belt, warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0

2A•4 SOHC engine procedures

Page 39

18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH:

New belt, cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5

New belt, warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5

Used belt, cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5

Used belt, warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0

Valves and guides Inlet Exhaust

Overall length - production (mm):

14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105.0 105.0

16 SV, X 16 SZ and C16 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101.5 101.5

C16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104.2 104.2

18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104.2 104.0

Overall length - service (mm):

14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104.6 104.6

16 SV, X 16 SZ and C16 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101.1 101.1

C16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103.8 103.8

18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103.8 103.6

Head diameter (mm):

14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.0 29.0

16 SV, X 16 SZ, C16 NZ and C16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.0 31.0

18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.8 36.5

Stem diameter (mm), (all engines):

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.998 to 7.012 6.978 to 6.992

0.075 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.073 to 7.087 7.053 to 7.067

0.150 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.148 to 7.162 7.128 to 7.142

0.250 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.248 to 7.262 7.228 to 7.242

Valve guide bore (mm), (all engines):

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.030 to 7.050

0.075 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.105 to 7.125

0.150 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.180 to 7.200

0.250 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.280 to 7.300

Valve clearance in guide (mm), (all engines):

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.018 to 0.052

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.038 to 0.072

Valve seat angle:

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44º

Valve clearances:

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Automatic adjustment by hydraulic lifters

Flywheel

Maximum permissible lateral run-out of starter ring gear (all models) . . 0.5 mm Refinishing limit - maximum depth of material that may be removed

from clutch friction surface (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 mm

Lubrication system

Lubricant type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Lubricants and fluids in “Weekly checks”

Lubricant capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications

Oil pump clearances:

Inner-to-outer gear teeth clearance (backlash) (all models) . . . . . . . . 0.0 to 0.2 mm

Gear-to-housing clearance (endfloat):

14 NV, 16 SV, C16 NZ and X 16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 to 0.15 mm

C16 NZ2, 18 SV, C18 NZ, 20 NE, C20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . 0.03 to 0.10 mm

Oil pressure at idle (engine warm) (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 bar (21.8 lbf/in2)

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Note: Use new bolts where asterisked (*). The torque settings stated for the cylinder head are only applicable to latest specification bolts, available

from Vauxhall. Earlier type or alternative make, head bolts may require different torques. Consult your supplier.

Air inlet pre-heat to exhaust manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Alternator and inlet manifold to brackets:

1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Alternator to bracket (M8) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Alternator to bracket (M10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Alternator to shackle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Big-end bearing cap: *

1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2)

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 30º

SOHC engine procedures 2A•5

Page 40

Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm lbf ft

Big-end bearing cap: *

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 45º

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 15º

Camshaft housing cover to housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Camshaft pulley to camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Camshaft thrust plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Coolant outlet to thermostat housing:

C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Coolant pump to cylinder block:

1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C 16 NZ2) (M6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre (M8) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Crankshaft sensor wheel:

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 10

Cylinder head to cylinder block: *

1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 60º

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 60º

Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 60º

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 90º

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 90º

Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 90º

Drivebelt (ribbed) pulley/timing belt drive to crankshaft: *

1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 45º

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 15º

Drivebelt pulley to timing belt drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Drivebelt (ribbed) tensioner to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Drivebelt (ribbed) tensioner to support:

1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Engine bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Engine bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Engine mounting bracket to engine bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Engine mounting to engine mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48

Engine mounting to front axle housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Engine mounting to power steering pump support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Engine mounting to side member . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48

Exhaust manifold to cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Exhaust pipe to manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Flexplate to crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Flywheel to crankshaft: *

1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 30º

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 15º

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 30º

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 15º

Front timing belt cover to rear cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3

Fuel pump to camshaft housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Guide sleeve, release bearing to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Heat shield sleeves to cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Inlet manifold to cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Knock sensor to cylinder block (X16 SZ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 10

Main bearing cap: *

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 45º

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 15º

Oil filter to oil pump/cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4

2A•6 SOHC engine procedures

Page 41

Oil pick-up pipe bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4

Oil pick-up pipe to oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Oil pipes to radiator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Oil pressure switch to oil pump:

1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Oil pressure relief valve to oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Oil pump cover to oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4

Oil pump to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4

Oxygen sensor to exhaust manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Power steering pump bracket to support:

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Power steering pump to support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Right engine mounting to subframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48

Shackle to alternator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Starter to cylinder block (M10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Starter to cylinder block (M12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Sump:

1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Support to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26

Temperature sender to cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Thermostat housing:

1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Timing belt tensioner to oil pump:

1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Timing belt cover to oil pump/camshaft housing:

1.4 and 1.6 litre, (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4

Timing belt drive gear to crankshaft:

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 96

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by between 40º to 50º

Transmission to engine (M10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Transmission to engine (M12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

1 General description

General

The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line single or double overhead camshaft type (depending on model), mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle.

The crankshaft runs in five shell-type bearings, and the centre bearing incorporates a thrust bearing shell to control crankshaft endfloat.

The connecting rods are attached to the crankshaft by horizontally split shell-type big-end bearings. On single overhead camshaft (SOHC) models, the pistons are attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon pins, which are an interference fit in the connecting rod small-end bore. The aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with three piston rings: two compression rings and an oil control ring.

The camshaft on SOHC engines is driven from the crankshaft by a toothed composite rubber belt. Each cylinder has two valves (one

inlet and one exhaust), operated through rocker arms that are supported at their pivot ends by hydraulic self-adjusting valve lifters (tappets).

The inlet and exhaust valves are each closed by a single valve spring, and operate in guides pressed into the cylinder head.

A gear-type oil pump is located in a housing attached to the front of the cylinder block, and is driven directly from the crankshaft. A full-flow type oil filter is fitted.

The distributor is driven directly from the end of the camshaft. On carburettor models, the mechanical fuel pump is operated from the front end of the camshaft. The coolant pump is located at the front of the cylinder block, and is driven by the timing belt.

Chapter 2A describes the SOHC engine repair procedures. Many repairs and specifications to the DOHC engine are similar to the

2.0 litre SOHC. However where they differ, details can be found in Chapter 2B.

Engine identification codes general

Before ordering spare parts, or carrying out any repair or overhaul operations on the engine, it is essential to identify the exact

engine type being worked on. Later engines, although outwardly similar in appearance, often have significant differences in repair procedures, even though they may be of the same displacement and model year.

The following sub-Sections in this Chapter are mainly specific to engine type, as will be noted from the sub-Section headings. Check the engine identification code first, which is located on a horizontal surface on the exhaust manifold side of the cylinder block, at the distributor end. On later engines, the code is on the cylinder block-to-transmission flange, next to the engine oil dipstick.

2 Crankcase ventilation

system - description and

maintenance

Description

1 A crankcase ventilation system is fitted to all models, but the systems differ in detail depending on the model concerned. 2 Oil fumes and blow-by gases (combustion gases that have passed by the piston rings) are drawn from the crankcase into the area of

SOHC engine procedures 2A•7

Page 42

the cylinder head above the camshaft(s) through a hose. From here the gases are drawn into the inlet manifold/throttle body (as applicable) and/or the air box on the carburettor (where applicable), where they are re-burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture, hence reducing harmful exhaust emissions.

Maintenance

3 Certain models have a mesh filter inside the camshaft cover, which should be cleaned in paraffin if clogging is evident (see

illustration). 4 On high mileage vehicles, particularly when

regularly used for short journeys, a jelly-like deposit may be evident inside the crankcase ventilation system hoses. If excessive deposits are present, the relevant hose(s) should be removed and cleaned. 5 Periodically inspect the system hoses for security and damage, and renew as necessary. Note that damaged or loose hoses can cause various engine running problems that can be difficult to trace. 6 The crankcase breather/dipstick tube can be unbolted from the cylinder block after disconnecting the hose. Use a new gasket when refitting.

3 Compression test -

description

Description

1 If engine performance is poor, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel system, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble on a high mileage engine before any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be at operating temperature, the battery must be fully charged, and the spark plugs must be removed. The help of an assistant will also be required. 3 Disable the ignition system by disconnecting the coil LT (“+15”) wire. Fit the compression tester to No 1 cylinder spark plug hole.

4 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide open and crank the engine on the starter. Record the highest reading obtained on the compression tester. 5 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure developed in each. 6 The difference in pressure between any two cylinders should be no more than 1.0 bar (14.5 lbf/in2). If the pressure in any cylinder is low, pour a teaspoonful of clean engine oil into the spark plug hole, and repeat the test. 7 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that cylinder bore or piston ring wear was responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head gasket may be to blame. 8 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket leaking between them. 9 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the coil LT wire.

4 Major operations possible

with the engine in the vehicle

1 The following operations may be carried out

without removing the engine from the vehicle:

a) Removal and refitting of oil pressure relief

valve (see Section 30)

b) Removal and refitting of timing belt and

sprockets

c) Removal and refitting of camshaft housing

(SOHC engines) d) Removal and refitting of camshaft(s) e) Removal and refitting of cylinder head f) Removal and refitting of sump g) Removal and refitting of oil pump h) Removal and refitting of

piston/connecting rod assemblies i) Removal and refitting of flywheel j) Renewal of crankshaft front oil seal k) Removal and refitting of

engine/transmission mountings

Note: It is possible to renew the crankshaft rear oil seal with the engine in the vehicle, but this requires the use of special tools, and is a difficult operation, due to the lack of working space. For this reason, this operation is described with the engine removed from the vehicle.

5 Major operations requiring

engine removal

The engine must be removed from the

vehicle to carry out the following operations:

a) Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings b) Removal and refitting of the crankshaft c) Renewal of crankshaft rear oil seal

6 Method of engine removal

The engine may be removed either on its own, or together with the transmission. Unless work is also necessary on the transmission, it is recommended that the engine is removed on its own. In either case, the engine or engine/transmission assembly must be lifted out through the top of the engine compartment, using a hoist and lifting tackle.

7 Engine - removal and refitting,

(leaving transmission in car)

Note: A hoist and lifting tackle will be required for this operation. If the torque converter is removed (even partially) from the transmission, a considerable amount of the fluid inside it will leak out. To prevent this, when prising the engine from the transmission and removing it, be careful to keep the torque converter pressed firmly into the transmission. If the transmission is to be removed for some time, retain the torque converter by bolting a strip of metal across the bellhousing mating surface.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the bonnet (Chapter 11). 3 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front

of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 4 Drain the cooling system, remove the radiator and transmission fluid cooler hoses (automatic models), as described in Chapter 3. 5 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1, remove the oil filter and discard, safely. 6 Remove the air cleaner (or air cleaner cover), the air cleaner trunking, and the air box from the carburettor or throttle body (as applicable), referring to Chapter 4A or 4B, if necessary. On carburettor models, disconnect the hot air hose from the exhaust manifold hot air shroud and the air cleaner, and remove the hose. On automatic models, disconnect additional wiring, hoses, etc., from the carburettor, as described in Chapter 4A. 7 Remove the alternator, as described in Chapter 5. 8 On models with power steering, remove the hydraulic pump, as described in Chapter 10. 9 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the inlet manifold. 10 Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle lever and the bracket on the carburettor or inlet manifold, as applicable. 11 On carburettor models, disconnect the coolant hoses from the automatic choke housing, and disconnect the wiring from the automatic choke heater and the choke pull-down solenoid (see illustrations). Also disconnect the air box vacuum pipe from the carburettor.

2A•8 SOHC engine procedures

2.3 Crankcase ventilation filter removed from camshaft cover -

1.6 litre engine

Page 43

12 Disconnect the pressure sensor vacuum pipe from the carburettor (see illustration). 13 Remove the coolant hose(s) from the inlet

manifold and/or throttle body, as applicable. 14 Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel pump and vapour separator on carburettor models or from the fuel pipes at the right-hand side of the engine compartment on other models. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends of the pipes and hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel leakage (see

illustrations). 15 Disconnect all relevant wiring connections

and plugs, and remove the fuel injection wiring harness. Pull up on the wiring harness housing, and compress the wiring plug retaining clips to release the harness housing from the fuel injectors (see illustration).

16 Disconnect the heater coolant hoses from the coolant gallery at the rear of the cylinder block. 17 Disconnect the wiring from the following components (where applicable):

a) Starter motor b) Distributor (note HT lead positions) c) Oil pressure switch d) Oil temperature switch e) TDC sensor f) Oil level sensor g) Knock sensor h) Coolant temperature sensor i) Temperature gauge sender

18 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been disconnected, and that they are positioned clear of the engine. 19 Remove the front section of the exhaust system, as described in Chapter 4C. 20 Unbolt and remove the bellhousing cover plate (see illustration). 21 Remove the clutch (if applicable), as described in Chapter 6. On automatic models, use chalk or a felt-tip pen to mark the relationship of the torque converter to the flexplate before unbolting the torque converter. Refer to note at the beginning of this Section and to Chapter 7B for further information. 22 Remove the crankshaft pulley. Some pulleys are secured by four bolts, which must be unscrewed using an Allen key or hexagon bit. Unscrew each of the three bolts in turn and remove them. On other engines, the pulley is secured by a single bolt, which also

secures the crankshaft sprocket. On manual transmission models, if the engine is in the vehicle, the crankshaft can be prevented from turning by having an assistant engage first gear and depress the brake pedal. Alternatively, the flywheel (or flexplate, on automatics), ring gear teeth can be jammed, through the bellhousing cover aperture using a large screwdriver, or similar tool. Access to the crankshaft pulley is most easily obtained through the right-hand wheel arch, after removing the roadwheel. 23 Attach a hoist and lifting gear to the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head, and support the weight of the engine. 24 Unscrew and remove two of the three upper engine-to-transmission bolts, accessible from the engine compartment, leaving one fastened for safety. 25 Unbolt the right -hand engine mounting from the body and from the cylinder block, and withdraw the mounting bracket. 26 Unscrew and remove the four lower engine-to-transmission bolts. 27 Support the transmission using a trolley jack and interposed block of wood. Remove the last upper transmission bolt. 28 Manipulate the engine as necessary to separate it from the transmission. Note that the transmission locates on dowels in the cylinder block. 29 Carefully raise the hoist, and lift the engine from the vehicle, taking care not to damage any of the surrounding components in the engine compartment.

SOHC engine procedures 2A•9

7.12 Disconnect the pressure sensor vacuum pipe from the carburettor -

1.6 litre model

7.20 Removing the transmission bellhousing cover plate

7.15 Removing the fuel injection wiring harness -

2.0 litre SOHC model

7.14B Fuel hose-to-pipe connections at

right-hand side of engine compartment -

2.0 litre SOHC model

7.14A Disconnecting a fuel hose from the fuel pump - 1.6 litre model

7.11B . . .and disconnect the choke

heater/pull-down solenoid wiring plug -

1.6 litre model

7.11A Disconnect the coolant hoses from the automatic choke housing . . .

Page 44

30 With the engine removed, the transmission can be supported by placing a length of wood between the bellhousing and the front suspension subframe. Once the wooden support is in place, remove the trolley jack from under the transmission.

Refitting

Note: New left and right-hand engine/transmission mounting-to-body bolts must be used on refitting.

31 Use an M10 x 1.25 bottoming tap to clean the threads in the torque converters threaded bosses and ensure that new bolts are available for reassembly, where applicable.

32 Support the transmission with a trolley jack and remove the length of wood from between the bellhousing and the subframe. 33 Support the engine with the hoist and lifting tackle, and gently lower it into position in the engine compartment. 34 Mate the engine and transmission together, ensuring that the transmission locates on the dowels in the cylinder block, then refit the three upper engine-to-transmission bolts. 35 Tighten all nuts and bolts to their specified torque wrench settings. When tightening the torque converter-to-flexplate bolts to their specified torque wrench settings, a commercially available adapter will be required (see illustration). 36 If the clutch is still bolted to the flywheel, ensure that the weight of the transmission is not allowed to hang on the input shaft as it is engaged with the clutch friction disc. 37 Refit the four lower engine-to-transmission bolts, but again do not fully tighten them at this stage. 38 Fit the right-hand engine mounting bracket to the cylinder block, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque.

39 Manipulate the engine and transmission as necessary to enable the right-hand engine mounting-to-body bolts to be fitted, then fit new bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. 40 Tighten all the engine-to-transmission bolts to the specified torque, then disconnect the lifting tackle and hoist from the engine, and remove the trolley jack from beneath the transmission. 41 Refit the transmission bellhousing cover plate. 42 Refit the clutch, as described in Chapter

6. 43 Refit the front section of the exhaust system, as described in Chapter 4C. 44 Refit the crankshaft pulley using a reversal of the removal procedure described earlier in paragraph 22, and tighten the securing bolt(s) to the specified torque.

45 Lower the vehicle to the ground. 46 Refit all relevant wires, pipes and hoses,

etc., using a reversal of the removal procedure described earlier. 47 Where applicable, refit the power steering pump, tension the pump drivebelt, and bleed the hydraulic fluid circuit, as described in Chapter 10. 48 Refit the alternator and tension the drivebelt, as described in Chapter 5. 49 Refit the air cleaner components, referring to Chapter 4A or 4B, if necessary. On carburettor models reconnect the hot air hose to the exhaust manifold hot air shroud. 50 Fit a new oil filter (if not already replaced), and fill the engine with oil, as described in Chapter 1. 51 Refit the radiator and refill the cooling system, as described in Chapter 3. 52 Refit the bonnet as described in Chapter

11.

53 Reconnect the battery negative lead. 54 Refer to Section 37

8 Engine and transmission -

removal, separation, reconnection and refitting

Note: A hoist and lifting tackle will be required for this operation

Removal

1 Proceed as described in Section 7, paragraphs 1 to 18 inclusive. 2 Working in the engine compartment, remove the gear selector linkage, as described in Chapters 7A and 7B, as appropriate. 3 On manual transmission models, remove the retaining clip, then slide the clutch cable from the release lever, pushing the release lever back towards the bulkhead if necessary to allow the cable to be disconnected. On automatic models disconnect the selector cable from the actuating lever, then either unbolt the cable bracket or release the cable from the bracket. In either case, pull the cable

support from the bracket on the transmission casing, then move the cable and secure to one side out of the way, taking note of its routing. 4 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing lamp switch, which is located at the front of the manual transmission casing, above the left-hand mounting bracket. On automatic models, disconnect the transmission wiring by unplugging the five connector plugs from the various switches, solenoids and sensors. Release also the wiring from any clips or ties securing to the vehicle. 5 Where applicable, withdraw the automatic transmission breather hose from under the battery bracket. Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring if fitted. 6 Unscrew the securing sleeve, and disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission. 7 Unscrew the retaining nut, and disconnect the earth strap from the transmission endplate. 8 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes, wires etc. have been disconnected, and that they are positioned clear of the engine and transmission. 9 Proceed as described in Section 7, paragraphs 19 and 22. 10 Disconnect the inboard ends of the driveshafts from the differential, referring to the relevant paragraphs of Chapter 8. Be prepared for oil spillage as the driveshafts are withdrawn, and plug the apertures in the differential, to prevent further loss of oil and dirt ingress. Support the driveshafts by suspending them with wire or string - do not allow them to hang down under their own weight. 11 Attach a hoist and lifting gear to the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head, and support the weight of the engine. 12 Remove the left-hand transmission mounting completely by unscrewing the two bolts securing the rubber mounting to the vehicle, body, and the three bolts securing the mounting bracket to the transmission (see

illustration). 13 Unbolt the right -hand engine mounting

from the body and from the cylinder block, and withdraw the mounting bracket.

2A•10 SOHC engine procedures

8.12 Left-hand transmission mounting viewed from underside of vehicle

7.35 Commercially-available torque

wrench adapter being used to tighten

torque converter bolts

If a tap is not available, cut two slots into the threads of one of the old flywheel bolts

and use the bolt to remove the locking compound from the threads.

Page 45

14 Working under the vehicle, unscrew and remove the two nuts securing the engine/transmission rear mounting to the front subframe, and the three bolts securing the mounting bracket to the transmission, then withdraw the mounting bracket (see

illustrations). 15 Carefully swing the engine/transmission

assembly across the engine compartment as necessary, to allow the assembly to be lifted vertically from the vehicle by raising the hoist. Take care not to damage any of the surrounding components in the engine compartment.

Separation

16 With the engine/transmission assembly removed, support the assembly on blocks of wood positioned on a workbench, or failing that, on a clean area of the workshop floor. 17 Clean away any external dirt using paraffin or a water-soluble solvent and a stiff brush. 18 Unbolt and remove the transmission bellhousing cover plate. 19 Ensure that both engine and transmission are adequately supported, then unscrew and remove the engine-to-transmission bolts. 20 Carefully withdraw the transmission from the engine, ensuring that the weight of the transmission is not allowed to hang on the input shaft while it is engaged with the clutch friction disc. Note that the transmission locates on dowels positioned in the cylinder block. 21 On automatic models unbolt the transmission bellhousing cover plate (three bolts), then use chalk or a felt-tip pen to mark the relationship of the torque converter to the flexplate before unbolting the torque converter. Note: If the torque converter is

removed (even partially) from the transmission, a considerable amount of the fluid inside it will leak out. To prevent this, when prising the transmission off its locating dowels and removing it, be careful to keep the torque converter pressed firmly into the transmission. If the transmission is to be removed for some time, retain the torque converter by bolting a strip of metal across the bellhousing mating surface. Applying a spanner to the crankshaft

pulley/sprocket bolt, rotate the crankshaft until the first bolt appears, then use a

screwdriver or similar to jam the flexplate ring gear teeth to prevent it from rotating as the bolt is unscrewed. Unscrew each of the three bolts in turn and remove them.

Reconnection

22 Before beginning the refitting operations, check that the two original bolts that secured the left-hand transmission rubber mounting to the vehicle body rotate freely in their threaded bores in the body. If necessary, re-cut the threaded bores using an M10 x 1.25 mm tap.

23 Where applicable, if the clutch assembly has been removed from the flywheel, it will prove easier to refit after the transmission has been refitted. 24 On automatics, if any fluid was spilled from the torque converter, be careful to refill it as much as possible. Wipe clean the converter’s spigot to prevent damage to the transmission’s input shaft oil seal as the converter is installed, and ensure that the converter engages correctly on the fluid pump shaft. 25 If the transmission has been renewed, be careful to flush clean the radiator fluid cooler passages. Vauxhall recommend the use of low-pressure compressed air, but this will require great care to avoid deforming the radiator. 26 Be very careful to ensure that all components are scrupulously clean, to avoid the risk of dirt getting into the system. 27 Use an M10 x 1.25 bottoming tap to clean the threads in the torque converters threaded bosses and ensure that new bolts are available for reassembly, where applicable. 28 Tighten all nuts and bolts to their specified torque wrench settings. 29 Refer also to Section 7, paragraphs 35 and 36. 30 Carefully offer the transmission to the engine until the bellhousing is located on the dowels in the cylinder block, then refit the engine-to-transmission bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque. 31 Refit the transmission bellhousing cover plate.

Refitting

32 Working under the vehicle, refit the rear engine/transmission mounting to the transmission, using new locking plates under the bolt heads, and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 33 Fit the two bolts securing the engine/ transmission rear mounting to the front subframe, but do not fully tighten at this stage. 34 Fit the right-hand engine mounting bracket to the cylinder block, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. 35 Fit new right-hand engine mounting-to-body bolts, but do not fully tighten them at this stage. 36 Fit the left -hand transmission mounting bracket to the transmission, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. 37 Fit new left-hand transmission mounting-to-body bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque. 38 Tighten the right -hand engine mountingto-body bolts and the engine/transmission rear mounting-to-front subframe bolts to their specified torques, then remove the lifting tackle and hoist from the engine. 39 Where applicable, the clutch can now be fitted, and the transmission input shaft can be pressed into engagement with the splined hub of the clutch friction disc, (see Chapter 5). 40 Reconnect the inboard ends of the driveshafts to the differential, with reference to the relevant paragraphs of Chapter 8, and using new snap rings. 41 Refit the front section of the exhaust system, as described in Chapter 4C. 42 Refit the crankshaft pulley, using a reversal of the removal procedure described in Section 7, paragraph 22, and tighten the securing bolt(s) to the specified torque. 43 On automatic models, connect the wires to the various switches, solenoids and sensors. Replace the transmission breather hose and oxygen sensor (if fitted). 44 Reconnect the transmission earth strap, and tighten the securing nut.

45 Lower the vehicle to the ground. 46 Reconnect the speedometer cable to the

transmission, and tighten the securing sleeve.

47 Reconnect the reversing lamp wiring. 48 On manual transmission models, refit the

clutch cable to the bracket on the transmission casing, then reconnect the cable to the release lever, and adjust the cable as described in Chapter 6. Ensure that the cable is routed as noted during removal. 49 Refit the gear selector linkage, as described in Chapter 7A, if applicable. 50 Proceed as described in Section 7, paragraphs 41 to 52 inclusive. 51 Top-up the transmission oil level, as described in Chapters 7A and 7B. 52 Adjust the selector cable on completion, and refill the transmission with fluid (see above).

53 Reconnect the battery negative lead. 54 Refer to Section 37

SOHC engine procedures 2A•11

8.14B Rear engine/transmission mountingto-transmission bolts (arrowed)

8.14A Rear engine/transmission mounting-to-front subframe nuts

If a tap is not available, cut two slots into the threads of one of the old flywheel bolts and use the bolt to remove

the locking compound from the threads.

Page 46

9 Engine and transmission

mountings - renewal

Note: New left and right-hand engine/transmission mounting-to-body bolts must be used on refitting

1 The engine/transmission assembly is suspended in the engine compartment on three mountings, two of which are attached to the transmission, and one to the engine.

Right-hand mounting

2 If not already done, apply the handbrake, then raise the front of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).. 3 Attach lifting tackle and a hoist to the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head, and support the weight of the engine. 4 Working under the vehicle, unbolt the engine mounting bracket from the cylinder block, and unbolt the mounting block from the body, then withdraw the bracket/mounting assembly (see illustration). 5 Unbolt the mounting block from the bracket. 6 Fit the new mounting block to the bracket, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. 7 Refit the mounting bracket to the cylinder block, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. 8 Fit new mounting block-to-body bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque. 9 Disconnect the lifting tackle and hoist from the engine. 10 Lower the vehicle to the ground.

Left-hand mounting

11 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 and 3. 12 Working under the vehicle, unbolt the mounting block from the mounting bracket and the body (see illustration).

13 Before fitting the new mounting block, check that the original engine bolts which secured the mounting block to the body rotate freely in their threaded bores in the body. If necessary, re-cut the threaded bores using an M10 x 1.25 mm tap.

14 Fit the new mounting block to the bracket, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. 15 Fit new mounting block-to-body bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque. 16 Proceed as described in paragraphs 9 and 10.

Rear mounting

17 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 and 3. 18 Working under the vehicle, unbolt the mounting block from the front subframe and the mounting bracket. 19 Fit the new mounting block to the subframe and mounting bracket, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. 20 Proceed as described in paragraphs 9 and 10.

10 Engine dismantling and

reassembly - general

General

1 Ideally, the engine should be mounted on a dismantling stand, but if this is not available, stand the engine on a strong bench, at a comfortable working height. Failing this, the engine will have to be stripped down on the floor. 2 Cleanliness is most important, and if the

engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with paraffin in an upright position. 3 Avoid working with the engine directly on a concrete floor, as grit presents a real source of trouble. 4 If the engine oil appears extremely dirty or contaminated, avoid inverting the engine until the sump has been removed. This will prevent any contaminated “sludge” from entering the oilways. 5 As parts are removed, clean them in a paraffin bath. Do not immerse parts with internal oilways in paraffin, as it is difficult to remove, usually requiring a high pressure hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners. 6 It is advisable to have containers available to hold small items, to prevent loss and confusion when refitting. 7 Always obtain complete sets of gaskets when the engine is being dismantled. Keep the old gaskets as they can be used as patterns to make replacements should new gaskets not be available. 8 Where possible, refit nuts, bolts and washers to their locations after removal of the relevant components, as this helps protect the threads, and will also prove helpful during reassembly. 9 Retain unserviceable components, to compare them with the new components supplied. 10 Many of the engine components are secured using socket-headed “Torx” or “Allen” bolts, and tools will be required to remove and refit such bolts. 11 Read through each relevant Section of this Chapter carefully before beginning work, to ensure that any special tools that may be required are available. Many components (gaskets, oil seals, and certain bolts) must be renewed on reassembly; where applicable, obtain the required new components before starting work. 12 Before beginning a complete strip of the engine, the following ancillary components can be removed once the engine has been removed from the vehicle:

2A•12 SOHC engine procedures

9.4 Right-hand engine mounting

1 Mounting block-to-body bolts

2 Mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts

9.12 Left-hand engine/transmission mounting

1 Mounting block-to-body bolts

2 Mounting block-to-mounting bracket bolts

If a tap is not available, cut two slots into the threads of one of the old flywheel bolts and use the bolt to remove

the locking compound from the threads.

Page 47

a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (where

applicable) b) Starter motor c) Rear coolant gallery and hoses d) Oil pressure switch e) Oil temperature switch (where applicable) f) Oil level sensor (where applicable) g) Knock sensor (where applicable) h) TDC sensor (where applicable) i) Distributor components j) Fuel pump (where applicable) k) Thermostat/housing (N 16 NZ2, 1.8 and

2.0 litre models)

l) Power steering pump and mounting

bracket (where applicable) m)Alternator mounting bracket n) Engine lifting brackets o) Dipstick/crankcase breather tube p) Inlet manifold mounting bracket (where

applicable)

13 To ensure maximum life, with minimum trouble, from a rebuilt engine, not only must everything be correctly assembled, but it must also be spotlessly clean. All oilways and coolant passages must be clear, and all washers must be fitted in their original positions. Oil all bearings and other moving surfaces thoroughly with clean engine oil during assembly. 14 Before assembly begins, renew any bolts or studs with damaged threads. 15 Obtain a torque wrench, an angle -torque gauge, sockets and bits, an oil can, clean lint-free rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil seals, together with a new oil filter.

16 If they have been removed, new cylinder head bolts, flywheel bolts, big-end bearing cap bolts and main bearing cap bolts will also be required. 17 On completion of reassembly, refit the applicable ancillary components listed in paragraph 12.

18 Follow procedure shown in Section 37.

11 Timing belt and sprockets

(without automatic tensioner) -

removal, refitting and adjustment

Note: A two-legged puller may be required to remove the crankshaft sprocket on N 16 NZ2,

1.8 and 2.0 litre models. Some of the later 1.4 and 1.6 litre engines, identifiable by the squared-off top surfaces of the timing belt covers, are fitted with spring-loaded auto-

matic timing belt tensioners to ensure correct belt tensioning on assembly.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 On models with power steering, remove the

pump drivebelt, see Chapters 1 and 10. 3 Remove the alternator drivebelt, as described in Chapter 5. 4 On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, disconnect the wiring from the temperature gauge sender. 5 Release the securing clips (or hexagonheaded screws, if fitted), and remove the main outer timing belt cover, then unclip the smaller outer timing belt cover from the coolant pump. Where applicable, three screws retain the lower (small) outer cover to the rear cover, the fourth secures the tensioner (see illustrations). 6 On 1.6 litre models with power steering, remove the power steering pump, as described in Chapter 10. 7 Turn the crankshaft using a socket or spanner on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, until the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the notch in the rear timing belt cover, and the notch in the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the pointer on the rear timing belt cover (see illustrations). Note that on 1.4 litre engine there are two notches in the crankshaft pulley, representing 5° and 10° BTDC, and the 10° BTDC notch should be aligned with the pointer (see illustration). 8 Loosen the three coolant pump securing bolts (see illustration), and turn the pump to relieve the tension in the timing belt, then slide the belt from the camshaft sprocket.

SOHC engine procedures 2A•13

11.5C Timing belt lower (small) outer

cover screws (A), tensioner screw (B),

ignition timing fixed reference mark (C)

11.8 Loosening a coolant pump securing bolt - 2.0 litre engine

11.7C Crankshaft pulley 10° BTDC notch aligned with pointer on rear timing belt

cover - 1.4 litre engine

11.7B . . .and notch in crankshaft pulley aligned with pointer on rear timing belt

cover - 2.0 litre engine

11.7A Camshaft sprocket TDC mark aligned with notch in rear timing belt

cover . . .

11.5B . . .and the smaller cover from the coolant pump - 2.0 litre engine

11.5A Remove the main outer timing belt cover . . .

Page 48

9 The crankshaft pulley must now be removed. On 1.4 and 1.6 litre engines (except C 16 NZ2), the pulley is secured by a single bolt, which also secures the crankshaft sprocket. On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines, the pulley is secured by four bolts, which must be unscrewed using an Allen key or hexagon bit. On manual transmission models, if the engine is in the vehicle, the crankshaft can be prevented from turning by having an assistant engage first gear and depress the brake pedal. Alternatively, the flywheel ring gear teeth can be jammed using a large screwdriver or similar tool. 10 With the crankshaft pulley removed, the timing belt can be withdrawn. 11 If desired, the sprockets and the rear timing belt cover can be removed as follows, otherwise go on to paragraph 23. 12 To remove the camshaft sprocket, first

disconnect the breather hose(s) from the camshaft cover, then unscrew the securing bolts noting the locations of the HT lead brackets and any other wiring brackets, and remove the camshaft cover. 13 Recover the gasket. Prevent the camshaft from turning by holding it with a spanner on the flats provided between No’s 3 and 4 camshaft lobes, and unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt. 14 Withdraw the sprocket from the end of the camshaft. 15 To remove the crankshaft sprocket on 1.4 and 1.6 litre engines (except C 16 NZ2), if necessary, remove the lower securing bolts from the main rear timing belt cover and use two large screwdrivers behind the cover to lever off the sprocket. Remove the Woodruff key if it is loose. 16 To remove the crankshaft sprocket on C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines, it will be

necessary to prevent the crankshaft from turning, as described in paragraph 9. Take care when unscrewing the sprocket bolt, as it is very tight. If necessary, use a two-legged puller to remove the sprocket. Recover the Woodruff key and the thrustwasher from the end of the crankshaft. 17 To remove the main rear timing belt cover on C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models disconnect the TDC sensor wiring plug and unclip the wiring from the belt cover. Then unscrew the two upper securing bolts and the lower securing bolt(s) (one in the case of C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines, two on other SOHC engines). Withdraw the cover, manipulating it from the smaller rear belt cover on the coolant pump (see illustrations). 18 If desired, the smaller rear belt cover can be removed from the coolant pump, after unscrewing the securing bolt (see illustration), by rotating it to disengage it from the retaining flange on the pump.

Refitting

19 Refit the rear timing belt cover(s) using a reversal of the removal procedure, and ensuring that the main cover engages correctly with the smaller cover on the coolant pump. 20 On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines, refit the thrustwasher and the Woodruff key to the end of the crankshaft. Then refit the crankshaft sprocket, and tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque in the two stages given in the Specifications. Ensure that the washer is in place under the bolt head, and prevent the crankshaft from turning as during removal (see illustrations).

2A•14 SOHC engine procedures

11.17A Loosening the main rear timing belt cover lower securing bolt -

2.0 litre engine

11.18 Unscrewing the coolant pump rear belt cover securing bolt - 2.0 litre engine

11.20E Tighten the bolt to the specified torque . . .

11.20D . . .and the washer and bolt11.20C . . .the crankshaft sprocket . . .

11.20B . . . the Woodruff key . . .11.20A Refit the thrustwasher . . .

11.17B Main rear timing belt cover lower securing bolts (arrowed) - 1.6 SV engine

Page 49

21 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre engines (except C 16

NZ2), refit the Woodruff key to the end of the crankshaft where applicable. Then refit the crankshaft sprocket with the flange and locating lug for the crankshaft pulley outermost (see illustration). 22 Refit the camshaft sprocket, ensuring that the locating pin on the end of the camshaft engages with the hole in the sprocket, and tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque. Prevent the camshaft from turning as during removal. Check the condition of the camshaft cover gasket and renew if necessary, then refit the camshaft cover, ensuring that the HT lead brackets and any other wiring bracket are correctly located, and reconnect the breather hose(s) (see

illustrations). 23 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley and

ensure that the crankshaft pulley and

camshaft sprocket timing marks are still aligned as described in paragraph 7, then refit the timing belt around the sprockets (see illustration), starting at the crankshaft sprocket. 24 Refit the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the securing bolt(s) to the specified torque (see illustrations). If necessary, prevent the crankshaft from turning as during removal. 25 Adjust the timing belt tension, as described in Section 11. 26 On 1.6 litre models with power steering, refit the power steering pump, as described in Chapter 10. 27 Refit the outer timing belt covers, and on C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, reconnect the temperature gauge sender wiring. 28 Refit the alternator drivebelt and adjust the drivebelt tension, as described in Chapter

29 On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models with power steering, refit the power steering pump drivebelt and adjust the drivebelt tension, as described in Chapters 1 and 10. 30 Reconnect the battery negative lead.

Adjustment

Note: The manufacturers specify the use of a special gauge Vauxhall tool No KM-510-A for checking the timing belt tension. If access to a gauge cannot be obtained it is strongly recommended that the vehicle is taken to a Vauxhall dealer to have the belt tension checked at the earliest opportunity

31 The tension of a used timing belt should be checked with the engine at normal operating temperature. The tension of a new timing belt should be checked with the engine cold.

SOHC engine procedures 2A•15

11.22A Refit the camshaft sprocket . . .

11.24B Tightening a crankshaft pulley securing bolt - 2.0 litre engine

11.24A Refitting the crankshaft pulley -

1.6 litre engine

11.23 Refitting the timing belt -

2.0 litre engine

11.22D . . . fit the cover and tighten the

bolts. Note position of HT lead brackets

11.22C Fit the camshaft cover gasket . . .11.22B . . . and tighten the securing bolt to

the specified torque - 2.0 litre engine

11.21 Crankshaft sprocket fits with flange and pulley locating lug outermost -

1.6 litre engine

11.20F . . .then through the specified angle

- 2.0 litre engine

Page 50

32 Release the securing clips and remove the main outer timing belt cover, then unclip the smaller outer timing belt cover from the coolant pump. 33 Turn the crankshaft through at least quarter of a turn clockwise using a socket or spanner on the crankshaft sprocket bolt. 34 If the special gauge is available, place the locked gauge at the centre of the belt run between the coolant pump and the camshaft sprocket. The gauge should locate on the timing belt (see illustration). 35 Slowly release the operating lever on the gauge, then lightly tap the gauge two or three times, and note the reading on the scale (see

illustration). 36 If the reading is not as specified, loosen

the three coolant pump securing bolts, and rotate the pump in the required direction to achieve the desired reading on the gauge. Rotate the pump clockwise to increase the belt tension, or anti-clockwise to decrease the tension. 37 Lightly tighten the coolant pump securing bolts. 38 Remove the tensioning gauge, and turn the crankshaft through one full turn clockwise. 39 Re-check the belt tension as described in paragraphs 4 and 5. 40 If the tension is not as specified, repeat paragraphs 6 to 9 inclusive until the desired, consistent, reading is obtained. 41 On completion of adjustment, remove the checking gauge, tighten the coolant pump bolts to the specified torque, and refit the outer timing belt covers. 42 If the special checking gauge is not available, the timing belt tension can be checked approximately by twisting the belt between the thumb and forefinger, at the centre of the run between the coolant pump and the camshaft sprocket. It should just be possible to twist the belt through 90° using moderate pressure (see illustration). If adjustment is necessary, continue as described previously in this Section, but have the belt tension checked by a Vauxhall dealer using the special gauge at the earliest opportunity. If in doubt, err on the tight side when adjusting the tension, as if the belt is too slack, it may jump on the sprockets, which could result in serious engine damage.

12 Timing belt and tensioner 1.4

and 1.6 models (not C16 NZ2) -

removal, refitting and adjustment

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt outer covers as described in Section 11, paragraphs 1 to 5. 2 To lock the tensioner in its slackest position for removal and refitting, move the tensioner indicator arm clockwise until the holes align in the baseplate and the arm. Then insert a close-fitting pin, such as a drift, to retain them (see illustration). The tensioner can then be unbolted, or the belt can be removed. 3 Check that the tensioner roller rotates smoothly and easily, with no noises or signs of free play, roughness or notchy movement. Check also that there is no sign of physical wear or damage. If the tensioner is faulty in any way, or if there is any reason to doubt the continued efficiency of its spring, the complete assembly must be renewed.

Refitting

4 On refitting, ensure that the tensioner baseplate lug engages with the hole in the oil pump housing, then tighten the tensioner bolt securely and remove the locking pin; the tensioner should be quite free to move. 5 Set the belt tension as described below.

Adjustment

6 Whenever the timing belt is disturbed, whether during belt renewal or any other

engine overhaul work, its tension must be set on assembly - note that this procedure must

only be carried out on a cold engine. 7 It is assumed that the belt has been

removed and refitted, i.e. that the crankshaft pulley and timing belt outer covers are removed, that the tensioner is unlocked (see above) and that No 1 cylinder is in its firing position (just before TDC on the compression stroke). Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley bolt and remove the spark plugs so that the crankshaft can be rotated easily. 8 Note also that turning the coolant pump with the precision required is a great deal easier if a special spanner (Kent-Moore Part No KM-421-A) is used. Alternatives are available from manufacturers such as Sykes-Pickavant (Part No 031300) (see

illustration). 9 With the belt refitted and correctly routed

(see Section 11), ensure that the punch mark on the crankshaft sprocket and the stamped line on the camshaft sprocket are aligned with their respective timing belt rear cover notches

(see illustrations). 10 Tighten the belt by slackening its three

securing bolts, and turning the coolant pump clockwise until the holes align in the tensioner indicator arm and baseplate (the tensioner indicator arm will then have moved fully clockwise to its stop). Lightly tighten the pump securing bolts, just sufficiently to prevent the pump from moving. 11 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft smoothly

2A•16 SOHC engine procedures

11.34 Tension blade KM-510-A correctly

positioned on timing belt. Belt must pass

through points A, B and C - SOHC engines

11.42 Checking timing belt tension by

twisting belt through 90º between thumb

and forefinger

12.8 Using a special spanner to adjust the timing belt by moving the coolant pump

12.2 Using a close-fitting drift to lock the tensioner. Note baseplate lug engaged in

oil pump housing (arrowed)

11.35 Note the reading on the scale of the tension gauge -

1.6 litre engine

Page 51

(without jerking it or the belt may jump a tooth), through 2 complete revolutions (720°) clockwise, until the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket timing marks are once again aligned as described in paragraph 13. The position of the coolant pump must not alter. 12 Slacken the timing belt by turning the coolant pump anti-clockwise until the tensioner’s indicator pointer is in the centre of its baseplate notch; the timing belt tension is then correct (see illustration). Tighten the coolant pump bolts to the specified torque wrench setting (see Chapter 3), then turn the crankshaft through two further turns clockwise and recheck the setting. 13 If the pointer and notch are not aligned, the operation must be repeated from paragraph 7. On completion, refit all components removed.

13 Timing belt cover aperture,

1.4 and 1.6 models - general

General

The rear timing belt cover fitted to 1991 and 1992 model year 1.4 and 1.6 litre engines, incorporates a small aperture just above the oil pump housing. In certain circumstances, it is possible for foreign objects, such as gravel, to penetrate through this aperture and cause the timing belt to jump a tooth on its sprockets. For this reason, it is desirable to cover the aperture to prevent the possibility of this occurrence. A modified cover without an aperture was introduced for 1993 models.

A piece of suitably moulded sponge rubber (P/N 90469594), is available from Vauxhall dealers to enable the aperture to be covered. On models without power steering, the sponge rubber can be inserted into the cover aperture from above. If power steering is fitted, the sponge rubber is inserted into place from below. If access is difficult, particularly if the drivebelt is of the ribbed V-belt type, it may be easier to remove the alternator/power steering pump drivebelt as described in Chapter 5. Refit, and where applicable adjust, the belt tension on completion.

14 Timing belt and tensioner C16

NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre - removal,

refitting and adjustment

Removal

1 An alternative type of spring loaded automatic timing belt tensioner is fitted to these engines, from 1993 onward (see illustration). The tensioner assembly is similar to other automatic tensioners, but the removal and refitting procedures vary as follows. 2 The timing belt main outer cover may be secured either by clips or by hexagon-headed screws to the rear cover; in some cases, a combination of clips and screws may be used. 3 To release the belt tension before removal, unscrew the timing belt tensioner securing bolt slightly then, with a tool inserted in the slot on the tensioner arm, turn the tensioner arm until the timing belt is slack. If necessary,

remove completely and examine the tensioner as described in Section 12.

Refitting

4 Refit the tensioner into position and tighten the securing bolt slightly. 5 Ensure that the coolant pump is correctly positioned by checking that the lug on the coolant pump flange is aligned with the corresponding lug on the cylinder block. If this is not the case, slacken the coolant pump mounting bolts slightly and move the pump accordingly (see Chapter 3). Tighten the bolts to the specified torque on completion. 6 Refit the timing belt then tension it as follows.

Adjustment

7 Slacken the automatic tensioner securing bolt and move the tensioner arm anticlockwise, until the tensioner pointer lies at its stop. Tighten the tensioner securing bolt to hold the tensioner in this position.

SOHC engine procedures 2A•17

12.12 Timing belt tension is correct when the tensioner indicator pointer aligns with

the centre of the baseplate notch

12.9B . . . and stamped line (A) on

camshaft sprocket with timing belt rear

cover notch (B)

12.9A Align punch mark (A) on crankshaft sprocket with timing belt rear

cover notch (B) . . .

14.1 Timing belt automatic tensioner details (alternative type)

A Alignment lugs on coolant pump and cylinder block B Tensioner pointer aligned with notch in tensioner bracket 1 Move the tensioner arm anti-clockwise to release the belt tension 2 Move the tensioner arm clockwise to tension the belt

Page 52

8 Turn the crankshaft through two complete revolutions in the normal direction of rotation, and check that with the crankshaft pulley TDC mark aligned with the pointer on the rear timing belt cover. The TDC mark on the camshaft sprocket is still aligned with the notch in the timing belt rear cover. Slacken the automatic tensioner securing bolt again and move the tensioner arm clockwise, until the tensioner pointer is aligned with the notch in the tensioner bracket. In the first few hours of operation a new belt will be subjected to ‘settling-in’, (known as the running-in procedure). If you are refitting a used belt (one that has been ‘run-in’), align the pointer to approximately 4 mm to the left of the notch

(see illustration). 9 Tighten the tensioner securing bolt

securely. Turn the crankshaft through one complete revolution, in the normal direction of rotation, and check that the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks still align. Then refit the remainder of the components as described in Section 12. 10 With the timing belt adjustment set in this way, correct tension will always be maintained by the automatic tensioner and no further checking or adjustment will be necessary.

15 Camshaft front oil seal -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 The camshaft front oil seal may be renewed with the engine in the vehicle without removing the camshaft as follows. 2 Remove the timing belt and the camshaft sprocket, as described in Section 11. 3 Punch or drill a small hole in the centre of the now-exposed oil seal. Screw in a self-tapping screw, and pull on the screw with pliers to extract the seal.

Refitting

4 Clean the oil seal seat with a wooden or plastic scraper. 5 Grease the lips of the new seal, and drive it into position until it is flush with the housing, using a socket or tube. Take care not to damage the seal lips during fitting. 6 Refit the camshaft sprocket and the timing belt and tension the timing belt as described in Section 11.

16 Camshaft rear oil seal -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 The camshaft rear oil seal may be renewed with the engine in the vehicle without removing the camshaft as follows. 2 Remove the distributor as described in Chapter 5

3 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16 NZ2), the seal takes the form of an O-ring on the rear of the distributor body. Prise off the old O-ring carefully, using a screwdriver. 4 On C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, prise the seal from the camshaft housing

Refitting

5 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16 NZ2), fit the new O-ring, and refit the distributor as described in Chapter 5. 6 On C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, fit the new seal so that it is flush with the end of the housing, then refit the distributor components as described in Chapter 5.

17 Camshaft housing and

camshaft - general

Note: The engine must be cold when

removing the camshaft housing. Do not remove the camshaft housing from a hot engine. New cylinder head bolts must be used on refitting and sealer will be required when refitting the camshaft housing. Also see paragraph 3 before starting work:

General

1 The camshaft can only be removed without disturbing the housing, if a special tool is available to depress the cam followers whilst the camshaft is withdrawn.

2 If such a tool is available, the camshaft can be removed, after removing the timing belt and camshaft sprocket as described in Section 11. 3 If the special tool is not available, the camshaft housing must be removed. Since the cylinder head bolts must be removed, it is strongly recommended that a new cylinder head gasket is fitted. If the gasket is not renewed, and it “blows” on reassembly, the cylinder head will have to be removed to renew the gasket, and another new set of bolts will have to be obtained for refitting. You have been warned! 4 Removal and refitting of the camshaft housing is described in Section 18, along with cylinder head removal and refitting. If it is decided not to disturb the cylinder head, the relevant paragraphs referring specifically to cylinder head removal and refitting can be ignored. 5 Removal of the camshaft from the housing is described in Section 18.

18 Camshaft housing and

camshaft - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

Dismantling

1 With the camshaft housing removed from the cylinder head as described in Section 18, continue as follows. 2 Remove the distributor and it’s components as described in Chapter 5 and on C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre, carefully prise out the camshaft rear oil seal. 3 On carburettor models, remove the fuel pump, referring to Chapter 4A, if necessary. 4 Working at the distributor end of the camshaft, unscrew the two camshaft thrustplate securing bolts, using an Allen key or hexagon bit (see illustration). 5 Withdraw the thrustplate, noting which way round it is fitted (see illustration). 6 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the distributor end of the camshaft housing, taking care not to damage the bearing journals (see illustration).

2A•18 SOHC engine procedures

14.8 Timing belt adjustment

1 Alignment for new belts 2 Alignment for ‘run-in’ belts (gap is approximately 4 mm to the left of centre)

18.4 Camshaft thrustplate and securing bolts -

1.6 litre engine

Page 53

Inspection

7 With the camshaft removed, examine the bearings in the camshaft housing for signs of obvious wear or pitting. If evident, a new camshaft housing will probably be required. 8 The camshaft itself should show no marks or scoring on the journal or cam lobe surfaces. If evident, renew the camshaft. Note that if the camshaft is renewed, all the rocker arms should also be renewed. 9 Check the camshaft thrustplate for signs of wear or grooves, and renew if evident. 10 It is advisable to renew the camshaft front oil seal as a matter of course if the camshaft has been removed. Prise out the old seal using a screwdriver (see illustration).

Reassembly

11 Carefully drive in the new front seal until it is flush with the housing, using a socket or tube. On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, fit a new camshaft rear oil seal. Replace the distributor O-ring on other models (see

illustrations). 12 Begin reassembly by liberally oiling the

bearings in the housing and the oil seal lip. Carefully insert the camshaft into the housing from the distributor end, taking care to avoid damage to the bearings. 13 Refit the thrustplate, and tighten the securing bolts (see illustration). Check the camshaft endfloat by inserting a feeler blade between the thrustplate and the camshaft end flange. If the endfloat exceeds that specified, renew the thrustplate.

14 Where applicable, refit the fuel pump, referring to Chapter 4, if necessary. 15 Refit the distributor as described in Chapter 5. 16 Refit the camshaft housing, as described in Section 18. 17 If a new camshaft has been fitted, it is important to observe the following running-in schedule (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer) immediately after initially starting the engine:

One minute at 2000 rpm One minute at 1500 rpm One minute at 3000 rpm One minute at 2000 rpm

18 Change the engine oil (but not the filter, unless due) approximately 600 miles (1000 km) after fitting a new camshaft.

19 Camshafts, “undersize” C16

NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines

- general

General

1 The camshafts and camshaft housings for these engines are sorted on production into one of two size groups; standard and 0.10 mm “undersize”. Note that this is not intended to provide replacements for worn engines, but is to allow for production tolerances; either may be fitted to new engines. 2 “Undersize” components are marked with a spot of violet-coloured paint, that on the camshaft housing being applied on top at the timing belt end.

3 Whenever the camshaft or its housing are to be renewed, check (by direct measurement, if necessary) whether they are standard or undersize and ensure that only matching items are obtained for reassembly.

20 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting (engine in vehicle)

Note: The engine must be cold when the cylinder head is removed. Do not remove the cylinder head from a hot engine. New cylinder head bolts and a new cylinder head gasket must be used on refitting and sealer will be required when refitting the camshaft housing. The torque settings stated are only applicable to latest specification head bolts, available from Vauxhall. Earlier type or alternative make, head bolts may require different torques. Consult your supplier.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Drain the cooling system, as described in

Chapter 3. 3 Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold, referring to Chapter 4C. 4 The cylinder head can be removed complete with the manifolds, or the manifolds can be detached from the cylinder head before removal, with reference to the relevant Sections of Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C. If no work is to be carried out on the inlet manifold, it can be unbolted from the cylinder head and

SOHC engine procedures 2A•19

18.10 Prising out the camshaft front oil seal - 2.0 litre engine

18.13 Tightening a camshaft thrustplate securing bolt - 2.0 litre engine

18.11B Fitting a new camshaft rear oil seal

- 2.0 litre engine

18.11A Fitting a new camshaft front oil

seal using a special tool - 2.0 litre engine

18.6 Withdrawing the camshaft from the housing - 2.0 litre engine

18.5 Removing the camshaft thrustplate -

2.0 litre engine

Page 54

supported to one side out of the way, thus avoiding the need to disconnect the relevant hoses, pipes and wiring. 5 If the cylinder head is to be removed complete with the manifolds, disconnect all relevant hoses, pipes and wiring from the inlet manifold and associated components, referring to Chapter 4A or 4B. On carburettor models, disconnect the hot air hose from the shroud on the exhaust manifold. Loosen the alternator mountings, with reference to Chapter 5, then unbolt the upper alternator mounting from the inlet manifold. 6 If the inlet manifold is to be left in the engine compartment, continue as follows, otherwise go on to paragraph 15. 7 Disconnect the air cleaner trunking from the air box on the carburettor or throttle body, or directly from the throttle body (as applicable), and disconnect the camshaft cover breather hose that runs to the carburettor or throttle body (as applicable), (see illustration). 8 On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, disconnect the smaller coolant hose from the top of the thermostat housing. 9 On 1.6 litre models (except C 16 NZ2), disconnect the breather hose (which runs from the camshaft cover to the inlet manifold) at the camshaft cover. 10 On fuel injection models, unbolt the two wiring harnesses earth leads from the camshaft housing (see illustration). 11 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C 16 NZ2), disconnect the stub hose that connects the crankcase breather tube to the rear of the

camshaft housing (see illustration). 12 Loosen the alternator mountings, referring to Chapter 5, then unbolt the upper alternator mounting from the inlet manifold. 13 Make a final check to ensure that all necessary hoses, pipes and wires have been disconnected, then unscrew the securing nuts, noting the location of the engine lifting bracket, and lift the inlet manifold from the cylinder head. Ensure that the manifold is properly supported, taking care not to strain any of the hoses, pipes and wires, etc., which are still connected. 14 Recover the manifold gasket from the cylinder head. 15 If desired, remove the exhaust manifold, with reference to Chapter 4C. 16 Remove the timing belt and the camshaft sprocket, as described in Section 11. 17 Unscrew the two upper rear timing belt cover securing bolts from the camshaft housing. 18 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs and the coil, labelling them if necessary to aid refitting, and remove the distributor cap, referring to Chapter 5. Where applicable, disconnect the distributor wiring plug. 19 If not already done, disconnect the stub hose that connects the crankcase breather tube to the camshaft housing. If applicable unscrew the bolt securing the crankcase breather tube bracket to the end of the cylinder head (see illustrations). 20 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the thermostat housing.

21 On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel pump. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent further fuel loss and dirt ingress. 22 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires, etc., have been disconnected. 23 Working from the outside inwards in a spiral pattern as shown (see illustration), loosen all the cylinder head bolts by a quarter of a turn. Then loosen all the bolts by half a turn, and finally loosen and remove the bolts. Recover the washers. 24 Lift the camshaft housing from the cylinder head (see illustration). If necessary, tap the housing gently with a soft-faced mallet to free it from the cylinder head, but do not lever at the mating faces. Note that the camshaft housing is located on dowels. 25 Lift the rocker arms and their thrust pads from the cylinder head, keeping them in order so that they can be refitted in their original positions (see illustrations). 26 Lift the hydraulic valve lifters from the cylinder head, and place them upright in an oil bath until they are to be refitted (see illustration). Ensure that the depth of oil is sufficient to fully cover the valve lifters, and keep the lifters in order, so that they can be refitted in their original positions. 27 Lift the cylinder head from the cylinder block (see illustration). If necessary, tap the cylinder head gently with a soft-faced mallet to free it from the block, but do not lever at the mating faces. Note that the cylinder head is located on dowels.

2A•20 SOHC engine procedures

20.7 Disconnecting a camshaft cover breather hose -

2.0 litre engine

20.11 Disconnecting the crankcase breather tube stub hose -

1.6 litre engine

20.23 Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence - SOHC engines

20.19B Unbolting the crankcase breather tube bracket from the cylinder head -

2.0 litre model

20.19A Disconnecting the crankcase breather tube stub hose -

2.0 litre engine

20.10 Unbolting the fuel injection wiring harness earth leads from the camshaft

housing - 2.0 litre engine

Page 55

28 Recover the cylinder head gasket and

discard it.

Refitting

29 Clean the cylinder head and block mating faces, and the camshaft housing and cylinder head mating faces by careful scraping. Take care not to damage the cylinder head and camshaft housing, which are made of light alloy and are easily scored. Cover the coolant passages and other openings with masking tape or rag to prevent dirt and carbon falling in. Mop out all the oil from the bolt holes; if oil is left in the holes, hydraulic pressure could crack the block when the bolts are refitted. 30 If desired, the cylinder head can be dismantled and inspected as described in Sections 22 and 23, and the camshaft housing can be dismantled as described in Section 18.

31 Begin refitting by locating a new gasket on the block so that the word “OBEN” or “TOP” can be read from above (see

illustrations). 32 With the mating faces scrupulously clean,

locate the cylinder head on the block so that the positioning dowels engage in their holes. 33 Refit the hydraulic valve lifters, thrust pads and rocker arms to the cylinder head in their original positions. Liberally oil the valve lifter bores, and if new lifters are being fitted initially immerse each one in a container of clean engine oil and compress it (by hand) several times to charge it. Lubricate the contact faces of the valve lifters, thrust pads and rocker arms with a little molybdenum disulphide grease (see illustration). 34 Temporarily refit the crankshaft sprocket, and ensure that the timing marks are still positioned as they were before the timing belt was removed (see Section 11).

35 Apply sealing compound (Vauxhall part No 90094714, or equivalent) to the cylinder head top mating face (see illustration), then refit the camshaft housing to the cylinder head. 36 Fit the new cylinder head bolts, ensuring that the washers are in place under their heads, and screw the bolts in by hand as far as possible (see illustration). 37 Tighten the bolts working from the inside outwards in a spiral pattern as shown (see illustration). Tighten the bolts in the four stages given in the Specifications - i.e. tighten all bolts to the Stage 1 torque, then tighten all bolts to Stage 2 and so on (see illustrations). 38 Further refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, remembering the following points. 39 Ensure that the HT leads are refitted to their correct cylinders.

SOHC engine procedures 2A•21

20.25B . . . and their thrust pads from the cylinder head - 1.6 litre engine

20.35 Apply sealing compound to the cylinder head top mating face

20.33 Lubricate the valve lifter contact

faces with molybdenum disulphide grease

20.31B Cylinder head gasket correctly located over dowel in cylinder block

20.31A Cylinder head gasket “Oben/TOP” markings

20.27 Lifting the cylinder head from the cylinder block - 1.6 litre engine

20.26 Lift the hydraulic valve lifters from the cylinder head - 1.6 litre engine

20.25A Lift the rocker arms . . .20.24 Lifting the camshaft housing from

the cylinder head - 1.6 litre engine

Page 56

40 Refit the camshaft sprocket and the timing belt and tension the timing belt as described in Section 11. 41 Where applicable, refit the manifolds to the cylinder head, with reference to Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C, using new gaskets. 42 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the manifold, using a new gasket, referring to Chapter 4C, if necessary. 43 Refit the upper alternator mounting to the inlet manifold, then adjust the alternator drivebelt tension, as described in Chapter 5. 44 Refill the cooling system, as described in Chapter 3. 45 On completion, check that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires, etc., have been reconnected. 46 When the engine is started, check for signs of leaks. 47 Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, check and if necessary adjust the idle speed (where applicable) and the mixture (where applicable), with reference to Chapter 4A or 4B.

21 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting (engine removed)

Note: New cylinder head bolts and a new cylinder head gasket must be used on refitting, and sealer will be required when refitting the camshaft housing. The torque settings stated are only applicable to latest specification head bolts, available from Vauxhall. Earlier type or alternative make, head bolts may require different torques. Consult your supplier.

Removal

1 The cylinder head can be removed complete with the manifolds, or the manifolds can be detached from the cylinder head before removal, with reference Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C. 2 Remove the timing belt and the camshaft sprocket, as described in Section 11. 3 Unscrew the two upper rear timing belt cover securing bolts from the camshaft housing (see illustration).

4 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, labelling them if necessary to aid refitting, and remove the distributor cap referring to Chapter 5. 5 If not already done, disconnect the stub hose that connects the crankcase breather tube to the camshaft housing. If applicable, unscrew the bolt securing the crankcase breather tube bracket to the end of the cylinder head. 6 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been disconnected.

Refitting

7 Proceed as described in Section 21, paragraphs 23 to 41 inclusive, but in addition note the following. 8 On completion check that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires, etc., have been reconnected.

22 Cylinder head - dismantling

and reassembly

Note: A valve spring compressor tool will be required for this operation. New valve stem oil seals must be used on reassembly

Dismantling

1 With the cylinder head removed as described in Section 21, clean away all external dirt. 2 If not already done, remove the thermostat housing, and on 1.4 and 1.6 litre models, the

thermostat, as described in Chapter 3. Remove the manifolds as described in Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C. Remove the spark plugs if not already done. 3 To remove a valve, fit a valve spring compressor tool. Ensure that the arms of the compressor tool are securely positioned on the head of the valve and the spring cap (see

illustration). 4 Compress the valve spring to relieve the

pressure of the spring cap acting on the collets. If the spring cap sticks on the valve stem, support the compressor tool and give the end a light tap with a hammer to help free the spring cap. 5 Extract the two split collets, then slowly release the compressor tool. 6 Remove the spring cap, spring, valve stem oil seal, and the spring seat, then withdraw the valve.

2A•22 SOHC engine procedures

20.36 Fit new cylinder head bolts, ensuring that the washers are in place

20.37B Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the specified torque . . .

22.3 Valve spring compressor tool fitted to No 1 exhaust valve - 2.0 litre engine

21.3 Upper rear timing belt cover securing bolts (arrowed) - 1.6 litre engine

20.37C . . .then through the specified angle - 2.0 litre engine

20.37A Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - SOHC engines

Page 57

7 Repeat the procedure for the remaining

valves, keeping all components in strict order, so that they can be refitted in their original positions (see illustration). 8 The cylinder head and valves can be inspected for wear and damage as described in Section 23.

Reassembly

9 With all components cleaned, begin reassembly as follows. 10 Starting at one end of the cylinder head, fit the valve components as follows. 11 Insert the appropriate valve into its guide, ensuring that the valve stem is well lubricated with clean engine oil (see illustration). Note that if the original components are being refitted, all components must be refitted in their original positions.

12 Fit the spring seat (see illustration).

13 New valve stem oil seals should be

supplied with a fitting sleeve, which fits over the collet groove in the valve stem, to prevent damage to the oil seal as it is slid down the valve stem (see illustration). If no sleeve is supplied, wind a short length of tape round the top of the valve stem to cover the collet groove. 14 Push the valve stem oil seal down the valve stem using a tube until the seal is fully engaged with the spring seat (see illustrations). Remove the fitting sleeve or tape, as applicable, from the valve stem.

15 Fit the valve spring and the spring cap (see illustrations). 16 Fit the spring compressor tool, and

compress the valve spring until the spring cap passes beyond the collet groove in the valve stem. 17 Apply a little grease to the collet groove, then fit the split collets into the groove, with

the narrow ends nearest the spring (see illustration). The grease should hold them in the groove. 18 Slowly release the compressor tool, ensuring that the collets are not dislodged from the groove. When the compressor is fully released, give the top of the valve assembly a sharp tap with a soft-faced mallet to settle the components. 19 Repeat the procedure for the remaining valves, ensuring that all components are refitted in their original positions, where applicable. 20 Where applicable, refit the manifolds as described in Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C, and/or the thermostat and thermostat housing as described in Chapter 3. Refit the spark plugs if desired. 21 Refit the cylinder head as described in Section 21.

SOHC engine procedures 2A•23

22.12 Fit the valve seat (exhaust valve shown)

22.17 Retain the split collets with a little grease

22.15B . . .and the spring cap22.15A Fit the valve spring . . .

22.14B . . . and push onto the spring seat using a socket

22.14A . . . then fit the valve stem oil seal . . .

22.13 Slide the oil seal fitting sleeve down the valve stem . . .

22.11 Inserting an exhaust valve into its guide

22.7 Inlet (1) and exhaust (2) valve components

Page 58

23 Cylinder head - inspection

and renovation

Note: Refer to a dealer for advice before attempting to carry out valve grinding or valve seat reciting operations, as these operations may not be possible for the DIY mechanic. This is due to the fitment of hardened valve seats for use with unleaded petrol

Inspection

1 Remember that the cylinder head is of light alloy construction and is easily damaged, use a blunt scraper or rotary wire brush to clean all traces of carbon deposits from the combustion spaces and the ports. The valve stems and valve guides should also be freed from any carbon deposits. Wash the combustion spaces and ports down with paraffin and scrape the cylinder head surface free of any foreign matter with the side of a steel rule, or a similar article. 2 If the engine is installed in the car, clean the pistons and the top of the cylinder bores. If the pistons are still in the block, it is essential that great care is taken to ensure that no carbon gets into the cylinder bores. This could scratch the cylinder walls or cause damage to the pistons and rings. To ensure this does not happen, first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are at the top of their bores. Insert rag into the other two bores or seal them off with paper and masking tape. The waterways should also be covered with small pieces of masking tape, to prevent particles of carbon entering the cooling system and damaging the coolant pump. 3 Press a little grease into the gap between the cylinder walls and the two pistons that are to be worked on. With a blunt scraper, carefully scrape away the carbon from the piston crown, taking great care not to scratch the aluminium. Also scrape away the carbon from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall. When all carbon has been removed, scrape away the grease that will now be contaminated with carbon particles, taking care not to press any into the bores. To assist prevention of carbon build-up, the piston crown can be polished with a metal polish. Remove the rags or masking tape from the other two cylinders, and turn the crankshaft so that the two pistons that were at the

bottom are now at the top. Place rag or masking tape in the cylinders that have been decarbonised, and continue as just described. 4 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting and burning, especially the heads of the exhaust valves. The valve seatings should be examined at the same time. If the pitting on the valve and seat is very slight, the marks can be removed by grinding the seats and valves together with coarse, and then fine, valve grinding paste. 5 Where bad pitting has occurred to the valve seats, it will be necessary to recut them and fit new valves. This latter job should be entrusted to the local dealer or engineering works. In practice it is very seldom that the seats are so badly worn. Normally it is the valve that is too badly worn for refitting, and the owner can easily buy a new set of valves and match them to the seats by valve grinding.

Renovation

6 Valve grinding is carried out as follows. Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste on the seat face and apply a suction grinder tool to the valve head. With a semi-rotary motion, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the process with fine carborundum paste, lifting and turning the valve to redistribute the paste as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced, on both valve and valve seat faces, the grinding operation is complete. Carefully clean away every trace of grinding compound, taking great care to leave none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean the valves and valve seats with a paraffin-soaked rag, then with a clean rag, and finally, if an air line is available, blow the valves, valve guides and valve ports clean. 7 Check that all valve springs are intact. If any one is broken, all should be renewed. Check the free height of the springs against new ones. If some springs are not long enough, replace them all. Springs suffer from fatigue and it is a good idea to renew them even if they look serviceable.

8 The cylinder head can be checked for warping either by placing it on a piece of plate glass or using a straight-edge and feeler blades. If there is any doubt or if its block face is corroded, have it re-faced by your dealer or motor engineering works. 9 On 1.8 and 2.0 litre, always renew the sealing ring between the cylinder head and the thermostat housing when the head is removed for overhaul (see illustration). Reference to Chapter 21 will show that a considerable amount of work is involved if it is wished to renew the sealing ring with the cylinder head installed. 10 If the oil pressure regulating valve in the cylinder head is to be renewed, access is gained through the circular plug covering the end of the valve (see illustration). The old valve must be crushed, then its remains extracted, and a thread (M10) cut in the valve seat to allow removal using a bolt. A new valve and plug can then be driven into position. In view of the intricacies of this operation, it is probably best to have the valve renewed by a Vauxhall dealer if necessary.

24 Hydraulic valve lifters -

inspection

Inspection

1 On engines that have covered a high mileage, or for which the service history (particularly oil changes) is suspect, it is possible for the valve lifters to suffer internal contamination. In extreme cases this may result in increased engine top end noise and wear. To minimise the possibility of problems occurring later in the life of the engine, it is advisable to dismantle and clean the hydraulic valve lifters as follows whenever the cylinder head is overhauled. Note that no spare parts are available for the valve lifters, and if any of the components are unserviceable, the complete assembly must be renewed (see

illustration). 2 With the cylinder head removed and

dismantled as described in Sections 21 and 23, first inspect the valve lifter bores in the

2A•24 SOHC engine procedures

23.10 Oil pressure regulating valve (1) and plug (2) - 2.0 litre engine

23.9 Renewing the thermostat housing sealing ring - 2.0 litre engine

Warning: The exhaust valves fitted to 20 XEJ and C 20 XE (DOHC) models are fitted with

sodium to improve their heat transfer. Sodium is a highly reactive metal, which will ignite or explode spontaneously on contact with water (including water vapour in the air). These must NOT be disposed of with ordinary scrap. Seek advice from a Vauxhall dealer or your Local Authority, if the valves are to be disposed of.

Page 59

cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is evident, the cylinder head must be renewed. Also check the valve lifter oil holes in the cylinder head for obstructions. 3 Starting with number 1 valve lifter, carefully pull the collar from the top of the valve lifter cylinder. It should be possible to remove the collar by hand - if a tool is used, take care not to distort the collar. 4 Withdraw the plunger from the cylinder, and recover the spring.

5 Using a small screwdriver, carefully prise the cap from the base of the plunger. Recover the spring and ball from under the cap, taking care not to lose them as the cap is removed. 6 Carefully clean all the components using paraffin or solvent, paying particular attention to the machined surfaces of the cylinder (internal surfaces), and piston (external surfaces). Thoroughly dry all the components using a lint-free cloth. Carefully examine the springs for damage or distortion - the

complete valve lifter must be renewed if the springs are not in perfect condition. 7 Lubricate the components sparingly with clean engine oil of the correct grade, then reassemble as follows. 8 Invert the plunger, and locate the ball on its seat in the base of the plunger (see

illustration). 9 Locate the smaller spring on its seat in the

plunger cap, then carefully refit the cap and spring, ensuring that the spring locates on the ball. Carefully press around the flange of the cap, using a small screwdriver if necessary, until the flange is securely located in the groove in the base of the plunger (see

illustrations). 10 Locate the larger spring over the plunger

cap, ensuring that the spring is correctly seated, and slide the plunger and spring assembly into the cylinder (see illustrations). 11 Slide the collar over the top of the plunger, and carefully compress the plunger by hand, until the collar can be pushed down to engage securely with the groove in the cylinder (see illustration). 12 Repeat the above procedures on the remaining valve lifters.

SOHC engine procedures 2A•25

24.11 Slide the collar (1) over the top of the plunger and engage with the

groove (2) in the cylinder

24.10B . . .then slide the plunger and spring assembly into the cylinder

24.9B Locate the cap flange in the plunger groove

24.9A Spring (1) located in plunger cap, and ball (2) located on seat in plunger

24.10A Locate the spring over the plunger cap . . .

24.8 Locate the ball (1) on it’s seat (2) in the base of the plunger24.1 Hydraulic valve lifter components - SOHC engines

1 Collar 2 Plunger

3 Ball 4 Small spring

5 Plunger cap 6 Large spring

7 Cylinder

Page 60

25 Flywheel - removal, inspection

and refitting

Note: New flywheel securing bolts must he used on refitting. Certain models are fitted with a ‘Pot type’ flywheel. Although, it has a deeply recessed surface for the clutch disc, the operations below are the same.

Removal

1 If not already done, remove the clutch, (Chapter 6), and the starter motor, (Chapter 5). 2 If the engine is in the vehicle, remove the clutch release bearing and its guide sleeve, as described in Chapter 6. 3 Although the flywheel bolt holes are offset so that the flywheel can only be fitted in one position, it will make refitting easier if alignment marks are made between the flywheel and the end of the crankshaft. 4 Prevent the flywheel from turning by jamming the ring gear teeth using a large screwdriver or similar tool. Access is most easily obtained through the starter motor aperture if the engine is in the vehicle. 5 Unscrew the securing bolts, and remove the flywheel (see illustration). Take care, as

the flywheel is heavy!

Inspection

6 With the flywheel removed, it can be inspected as follows. 7 If the teeth on the flywheel starter ring are badly worn, or if some are missing, then it will be necessary to remove the ring and fit a new one. 8 The old ring can be split with a cold chisel, after making a cut with a hacksaw blade between two gear teeth. Take great care not to damage the flywheel during this operation, and use eye protectors always. Once the ring has been split, it will spread apart and can be lifted from the flywheel. 9 The new ring gear must be heated to 180 to 230°C (356 to 446°F) and unless facilities for heating by oven or flame are available, leave the fitting to a dealer or motor engineering works. The new ring gear must not be overheated during this work, or the temper of the metal will be altered.

10 The ring should be tapped gently down onto its register, and left to cool naturally - the contraction of the metal on cooling will ensure that it is a secure and permanent fit. 11 If the clutch friction disc contact surface of the flywheel is scored, or on close inspection, show’s evidence of small hairline cracks (caused by overheating), it may be possible to have the flywheel surface ground. This is provided that the overall thickness of the flywheel is not reduced too much. Consult a specialist engine repairer and if it is not possible, renew the flywheel complete.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points. 13 Align the previously made marks on the flywheel and crankshaft, and fit new flywheel securing bolts. Tighten them to the specified torque in the two stages given in the Specifications, whilst preventing the flywheel from turning, as during removal (see illustrations). 14 Where applicable, refit the clutch release bearing, guide sleeve, and the clutch, as described in Chapter 6.

26 Flexplate (automatic

transmission) - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Remove the transmission (Chapter 7B). 2 Prevent the flexplate from turning by

jamming its ring gear teeth using a large screwdriver or similar tool. 3 Unbolt and remove the flexplate. Examine the bolts and renew them all as a set if there is the slightest doubt about their condition. 4 The ring gear can be checked, and renewed if necessary, as described in Section 25.

Refitting

5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. If the bolts are to be re-used, use a wire brush to clean their threads, apply a few drops of thread-locking compound (Vauxhall Part No 90167347, or equivalent) to the threads of each bolt on refitting. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

6 Refit the transmission, refer to Chapter 7B if necessary.

27 Crankshaft front oil seal -

renewal

Renewal

1 Remove the timing belt and the rear timing belt cover, as described in Section 11. 2 Ensure that the Woodruff key is removed from the end of the crankshaft. 3 Punch or drill a small hole in the centre of the now-exposed oil seal. Screw in a self-tapping screw, and pull on the screw with pliers to extract the seal. Several attempts may be necessary. Be careful not to damage the sealing face of the crankshaft. 4 Clean the oil seal seat with a wooden or plastic scraper. 5 Before fitting the new oil seal, steps must be taken to protect the oil seal lips from damage, and from turning back on the shoulder at the front end of the crankshaft. Grease the seal lips, and then wind tape around the end of the crankshaft to form a gentle taper. 6 Tap the seal into position using a large socket or tube, until the seal is flush with the outer face of the oil pump housing. 7 Refit the rear timing belt cover and the timing belt tension the timing belt as described in Section 11.

2A•26 SOHC engine procedures

25.13C . . .and then through the specified angle -

1.6 litre engine

25.13B Tighten the flywheel securing bolts to the specified toque . . .

25.13A Tool for locking flywheel fitted to engine-to-transmission bolt hole -

1.6 litre engine

25.5 Removing the flywheel -

1.6 litre engine

Page 61

28 Crankshaft rear oil seal -

renewal

Renewal

1 With the engine removed from the vehicle, remove the flywheel, or flexplate (as applicable) as described in Sections 25 and

26. 2 Punch or drill a small hole in the centre of the now-exposed oil seal. Screw in a self-tapping screw, and pull on the screw with pliers to extract the seal. Several attempts may be necessary. Be careful not to damage the sealing face of the crankshaft. 3 Clean the oil seal seat with a wooden or plastic scraper.

4 Grease the lips of the new seal, then tap the seal into position using a tube, until flush with the outer faces of the cylinder block and rear main bearing cap (see illustration). 5 Refit the flywheel or flexplate (if applicable), as described in Sections 25 or 26.

29 Sump - removal and refitting

Note: The sump gasket(s) must be renewed on refitting and sealer will be required for use on the oil pump and rear main bearing cap-to-cylinder block joints

Removal

1 If the engine is in the vehicle, continue as follows, otherwise go on to paragraph 9.

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 3 Drain the engine oil, referring to Chapter 1 if

necessary, then refit and tighten the drain plug. 4 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 5 Remove the front section of the exhaust system, as described in Chapter 4C. 6 Where applicable, disconnect the wiring from the oil level sensor. 7 Unscrew the securing bolts and remove the engine-to-transmission blanking plate from the bellhousing.

8 Remove the securing bolts, and withdraw the sump. Note that on most models, the sump baffle will probably be pulled away from the cylinder block with the sump, but cannot be removed until the oil pick-up pipe has been removed. 9 On 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, to remove the sump baffle, it is necessary to unbolt the bracket securing the oil pick-up pipe to the cylinder block. The baffle can then be manipulated over the oil pick-up pipe. On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, prise the rubber gasket from the sump baffle. 10 If need be, the oil pick -up pipe can be removed by unscrewing the single bolt securing the support bracket to the cylinder block (if not already done). Then remove the two bolts securing the end of the pipe to the oil pump. Recover the O-ring. 11 Clean all traces of old gasket and sealing compound from the mating faces of the cylinder block, sump baffle (where applicable), and sump.

Refitting

12 Begin refitting by applying sealing compound (Vauxhall part No 90485251 or equivalent) to the joints between the oil pump and cylinder block, and the rear main bearing cap and cylinder block (see illustrations). 13 On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre locate a new rubber gasket over the sump baffle flange, ensuring that it is seated correctly (see

illustration). 14 On 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, offer the

sump baffle up to the cylinder block, manipulating it over the oil pick-up pipe where applicable. 15 If the oil pick-up pipe has been removed, refit it to the oil pump using a new O-ring and tighten bolts to the specified torque (see

illustrations). 16 Where applicable, refit the bracket

securing the oil pick-up pipe to the cylinder block, ensuring that it passes through the relevant hole in the sump baffle, if applicable

(see illustration). 17 Coat the sump securing bolts with

thread-locking compound (i.e. Vauxhall part No. 90167347), then refit the sump, and tighten the bolts to the specified torque (see illustrations).

SOHC engine procedures 2A•27

29.12B Applying sealing compound to the joint between the oil pump and cylinder

block - 2.0 litre engine

29.15B . . .and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque - 2.0 litre engine

29.15A Fit a new O-ring to the oil pick-up pipe . . .

29.13 Locate a new rubber gasket over the sump baffle flange - 2.0 litre engine

29.12A Apply sealing compound (arrowed) to oil pump and rear main bearing cap

joints before refitting sump

28.4 Fitting a new crankshaft rear oil seal -

2.0 litre engine

Page 62

18 If the engine is in the vehicle, further refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but refit the front section of the exhaust system referring to Chapter 4C. On completion, refill the engine with oil, as described in Chapter 1.

30 Oil pump - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt, sprockets and the rear timing belt cover, as shown in Section 11. 2 Remove the sump, oil pick-up pipe and sump baffle (where applicable), as described in Section 29.

3 On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines, unscrew the oil filter from its mounting on the oil pump, referring to Chapter 1, if necessary. 4 Disconnect the wiring from the oil pressure switch mounted on the oil pump. 5 Remove the securing bolts, and withdraw the oil pump from the cylinder block. Recover the gasket. 6 The oil pump can be dismantled for inspection, as described in Section 31.

Refitting

7 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the oil pump and cylinder block, then locate a new gasket on the block (see illustration). 8 Before refitting the oil pump, steps must be taken to protect the oil seal lips from damage, and from turning back on the shoulder at the front end of the crankshaft. Grease the seal

lips, and then wind tape around the crankshaft to form a gentle taper. 9 Refit the oil pump, ensuring that the inner gear engages with the flats on the crankshaft, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque, then remove the tape from the end of the crankshaft (see illustrations). 10 Reconnect the wiring to the oil pressure switch. 11 On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines, fit a new oil filter, with reference to Chapter 1. 12 Refit the sump baffle (where applicable), oil pick-up tube and sump, as described in Section 29. 13 Refit the rear timing belt cover and the timing belt, and tension the timing belt as described in Section 11.

31 Oil pump - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

Note: A new crankshaft front oil seal must be used on reassembly

Dismantling

1 With the oil pump removed as described in Section 30, continue as follows. 2 Remove the securing screws and withdraw the rear cover (see illustration). The screws may be very tight, in which case it may be necessary to use an impact driver to remove them.

2A•28 SOHC engine procedures

29.16 Refitting the oil pick-up pipe bracket

- 2.0 litre engine

29.17B Refitting the sump - 2.0 litre engine

31.2 Removing an oil pump rear cover securing screw -

2.0 litre SOHC engine

30.9C Tighten the oil pump securing bolts to the specified torque -

2.0 litre SOHC engine

30.9B . . .and with two flats (arrowed) on

1.8 and 2.0 litre engines

30.9A Oil pump inner gear must engage

with hexagon flats on crankshaft (arrowed)

on 1.4 and 1.6 litre engines . . .

30.7 Fit a new oil pump gasket to the cylinder block - 2.0 litre engine

29.17A Coat the sump securing bolts with thread-locking compound before fitting

Page 63

Inspection

3 Check the clearance between the inner and outer gear teeth (backlash) using a feeler blade (see illustration). 4 Check the clearance between the edges of the gears and the housing (endfloat) using a straight edge and a feeler blade (see

illustration). 5 If any of the clearances are outside the

specified limits, renew the components as necessary. 6 Ensure that the gears and the interior of the pump body are scrupulously clean before reassembly, and note that the outer gear is marked with a punch dot to indicate the gear outer face. 7 The oil pressure relief valve components can be removed from the pump by unscrewing the cap (see illustration). Examine the spring and plunger, and renew if necessary.

Reassembly

8 Thoroughly clean the components before refitting. 9 Always renew the crankshaft front oil seal at the front of the oil pump housing. Prise out the old seal using a screwdriver, and fit the new seal using a socket or tube, so that it is flush with the outer face of the housing (see

illustrations). 10 Ensure that the mating faces of the rear

cover and the pump housing are clean, then coat the pump housing mating face with sealing compound (Vauxhall part No 90485251, or equivalent) and refit the rear cover. Refit and tighten the securing screws.

11 Refit the pump, as described in Section 30.

32 Pistons and connecting rods

- removal and refitting

Note: New big-end cap bolts must be used on refitting

Removal

1 Remove the cylinder head, as described previously in Section 20. 2 Remove the sump, oil pick-up pipe and sump baffle (where applicable), as described in Section 29.

3 If the connecting rods and big-end caps are not marked to indicate their positions in the cylinder block (i.e. cylinder numbers), centre-punch them at adjacent points either side of the cap/rod joint. Note to which side of the engine the marks face (see illustration). 4 Unscrew the big-end cap bolts from the first connecting rod, and remove the cap. If the bearing shells are to be re-used, tape the cap and shell together. 5 Check the top of the piston bore for a wear ridge. If evident, carefully scrape it away with a ridge reaming tool, otherwise as the piston is pushed out of the block, the piston rings may jam against the ridge. 6 Place the wooden handle of a hammer against the bottom of the connecting rod, and push the piston/rod assembly up and out of the cylinder bore. Recover the bearing shell, and tape it to the connecting rod if it is to be re-used. 7 Remove the remaining three assemblies in a similar way. Rotate the crankshaft as necessary to bring the big-end bolts to the most accessible position. 8 The piston can be separated from the connecting rod by removing the circlips that secure the fully floating gudgeon pin. Note the orientation of the piston and connecting rod before separation, and if necessary, make alignment marks. Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling ensuring that the piston and connecting rod are correctly orientated. 9 The pistons and connecting rods can be examined for wear and damage, as described in Section 33, and the bearings can be examined as described in Section 35.

Refitting

10 Begin reassembly by laying the piston/connecting rod assemblies out in their correct order, complete with bearing shells, ready for refitting into their respective bores in the cylinder block. 11 Ensure that the seats for the bearing shells are absolutely clean, and then fit the shells into the seats. 12 Wipe out the cylinder bores and oil them. Oil the piston rings liberally, and ensure that the ring gaps are positioned as described in Section 33. 13 Fit a piston ring compressor tool to the first assembly to be installed.

SOHC engine procedures 2A•29

31.7 Oil pressure relief valve components

- 2.0 litre SOHC engine

32.3 Big-end cap centre punch

identification marks (circled). Note that lug

on bearing cap faces flywheel end of

engine - 2.0 litre SOHC engine

31.9B . . .and fit the new seal using a socket - 2.0 litre SOHC engine

31.9A Prise out the old crankshaft front oil seal . . .

31.4 . . .and between the edges of the gears and the housing -

2.0 litre SOHC engine

31.3 Check the clearance between the inner and outer gear teeth . . .

Page 64

14 Insert the rod and piston into the top of the cylinder bore, so that the base of the compressor stands on the block. Check that the connecting rod markings are towards the side of the engine noted during removal. Note that the arrow or notch, as applicable, on the piston crown should point towards the timing belt end of the engine, and the lugs on the connecting rods should point towards the flywheel end of the engine (see illustrations). 15 Apply the wooden handle of a hammer to the piston crown and tap the assembly into the bore, at the same time releasing the compressor (see illustration). 16 Oil the relevant crankpin, then guide the big-end of the connecting rod near to the crankpin, and pull it firmly onto the crankpin. Ensure that the bearing shell remains in position in the connecting rod. 17 Fit the big -end cap, with the markings towards the side of the engine noted during removal (see illustration). Note that the lug should point towards the flywheel end of the engine. 18 Fit new big -end cap bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque in the two stages given in the Specifications (see illustrations). 19 Repeat the procedure on the remaining three assemblies. 20 Refit the sump baffle (where applicable), oil pick-up pipe and sump, as described in Section 29. 21 Refit the cylinder head, as described previously in this Section 20.

33 Pistons and connecting rods

- examination and renovation

Examination

1 Examine the mating faces of the big-end caps to see if they have ever been filed, in a mistaken attempt to take up bearing wear. This is extremely unlikely, but if evident, the offending connecting rods and caps must be renewed. 2 Check the alignment of the rods visually, and if all is not well, take the rods to a Vauxhall dealer for a more detailed check. 3 The gudgeon pins are an interference (shrink) fit in the connecting rod small ends. Separation of the pistons and rods is a job for a dealer due to the special tools required, as

is any remedial action required if the gudgeon pin is no longer an interference fit in the rod. 4 Examine the pistons for ovality, scoring and scratches. 5 If new rings are to be fitted to the existing pistons, expand the old rings over the tops of the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler blades will be helpful in preventing the rings dropping into empty grooves. Note that the oil control ring is in three sections, and note which way up each ring is fitted, for use when refitting (see illustrations).

Renovation

6 Before fitting the new rings to the pistons, insert them into their relevant cylinder bores, and check that the ring end gaps are within the specified limits using a feeler blade (see illustration). Check the ring gaps at the upper and lower limits of the piston travel in the bores.

2A•30 SOHC engine procedures

32.14A Piston crown arrow must point towards timing belt end of engine -

1.6 litre engine

32.14C Lugs (arrowed) on connecting rod and big-end cap must point towards

flywheel end of engine - 1.6 litre engine

33.5A Using a feeler blade to aid removal of a piston ring - 2.0 litre SOHC engine

32.18B . . .then through the specified angle - 2.0 litre SOHC engine

32.18A Tighten the big-end cap bolts to the specified torque . . .

32.17 Fitting a big-end bearing cap -

2.0 litre SOHC engine

32.15 Tapping a piston into its bore -

2.0 litre SOHC engine

32.14B . . .and similarly for the 2.0 litre SOHC engine

Page 65

7 If any of the ring end gaps exceed the

specified tolerance, the relevant rings will have to be renewed, and if the ring grooves in the pistons are worn, new pistons may be required. 8 Clean out the piston ring grooves using a piece of old piston ring as a scraper. Take care not to scratch the surface of the pistons. Protect your fingers, piston ring edges are sharp. Also probe the groove oil return holes, to ensure that they are not blocked. 9 Check the cylinder bores for signs of wear ridges towards the top of the bores. If wear ridges are evident, and new piston rings are being fitted, the top ring must be stepped to clear the wear ridge, or the bore must be de-ridged using a scraper. 10 Fit the oil control ring sections with the lower steel ring gap offset 25 to 50 mm to the right of the spreader ring gap, and the upper steel ring gap offset by the same distance to the left of the spreader ring gap. 11 Fit the lower compression ring, noting that the ring is tapered or stepped. The ring should be fitted with the word “TOP” uppermost. 12 Fit the upper compression ring, and offset the ring gap by 180° to the lower compression ring gap. If a stepped ring is being fitted, fit the ring with the smaller diameter of the step uppermost. 13 If new pistons are to be fitted, they must be selected from the grades available, after measuring the cylinder bores as described in Section 36. 14 Normally the appropriate oversize pistons are supplied by the dealer when the block is rebored.

15 Whenever new piston rings are being installed, the glaze on the original cylinder bores should be “broken”, using either abrasive paper or a glaze-removing tool in an electric drill. If abrasive paper is used, use strokes at 60° to the bore centre line, to create a cross-hatching effect.

34 Crankshaft and bearings -

removal and refitting

Note: New main bearing cap bolts must be used on refitting

Removal

1 With the engine removed from the vehicle, continue as follows. 2 Remove the cylinder head, as described previously in Section 20. 3 Remove the sump, oil pick-up pipe and sump baffle (where applicable), as described in Section 29. 4 Remove the oil pump, as described in Section 30. 5 Remove the flywheel or flexplate (if applicable), as described in Sections 25 and

26. 6 Remove the pistons and connecting rods, as described in Section 32. 7 Invert the engine so that it is standing on the top face of the cylinder block. 8 The main bearing caps are numbered 1 to 4 from the timing belt end of the engine. The rear (flywheel end) cap is not marked. To

ensure that the caps are refitted the correct way round, note that the numbers are read from the coolant pump side of the engine with the engine inverted (see illustration). 9 Unscrew and remove the main bearing cap bolts, and tap off the bearing caps. If the bearing shells are to be re-used, tape them to their respective caps. 10 Note that the centre bearing shell incorporates thrust flanges to control crankshaft endfloat. 11 Lift the crankshaft (complete with timing sensor wheel, if fitted), from the crankcase. 12 Extract the upper bearing shells, and identify them for position if they are to be re-used. 13 The crankshaft, bearings and sensor wheel can be examined for wear and damage, as described in Section 35, and the cylinder block and bores can be examined as described in Section 36.

Refitting

14 Begin refitting by ensuring that the crankcase and crankshaft are thoroughly clean, and that all oilways are clear. If possible, blow through the oil drillings with compressed air, and inject clean engine oil into them.

15 If the crankshaft is being replaced, where applicable, transfer the timing sensor wheel and tighten to correct torque. 16 Wipe clean the bearing shell seats in the crankcase and the bearing caps, then fit the upper bearing shells to their seats. 17 Note that there is a tag on the back of each bearing shell, which engages with a groove in the relevant seat in the crankcase or bearing cap (see illustration). 18 If new bearing shells are being fitted, wipe away all traces of protective grease.

SOHC engine procedures 2A•31

33.6 Measuring a piston ring end gap using a feeler blade

34.8 Main bearing cap identification mark (arrowed) - 1.6 litre engine

34.17 Main bearing shell tag (arrowed)

engages with groove in cylinder block -

2.0 litre SOHC engine

33.5C Sectional view showing correct

orientation of piston rings - all engines

33.5B Removing the centre section of the oil control ring - 2.0 litre SOHC engine

A good alternative to compressed air, is to use a water dispersing lubricant spray into each hole, using

the spout provided.

Page 66

19 Note that the central bearing shells have thrust flanges which control crankshaft endfloat (see illustration). Note also that the shells fitted to the crankcase all have oil duct holes, while only the centre main bearing cap shell has an oil duct hole. 20 When the shells are firmly located in the crankcase and the bearing caps, lubricate them with clean engine oil. 21 Fill the lips of a new crankshaft rear oil seal with grease, and fit it to the end of the crankshaft. 22 Carefully lower the crankshaft into position in the crankcase (see illustration). 23 If necessary, seat the crankshaft using light blows with a rubber hammer on the crankshaft balance webs. 24 Lubricate the main bearing journals and shells (see illustration), and then fit numbers 2, 3 and 4 main bearing caps, and tighten the new bolts as far as possible by hand.

25 Fill the side grooves of the rear main bearing cap with RTV jointing compound (Vauxhall part No 90485251, or equivalent). Coat the lower surfaces of the bearing cap with sealing compound (Vauxhall part No 15 04 200, or equivalent), (see illustrations). Fit the bearing cap, and tighten the new bolts as far as possible by hand. 26 Fit the front (No 1) main bearing cap, and tighten the new bolts as far as possible by hand, ensuring that the bearing cap is exactly flush with the end face of the cylinder block. 27 Working from the centre bearing cap outwards, tighten the bearing cap securing bolts to the specified torque in the two stages given in the Specifications; i.e. tighten all bolts to Stage 1, then tighten all bolts to Stage 2 and Stage 3 (see illustrations).

28 When all bolts have been fully tightened, inject further RTV jointing compound into the side grooves of the rear main bearing cap, until it is certain that they are full. 29 Now rotate the crankshaft, and check that it turns freely, with no signs of binding or tight spots. 30 Check that the crankshaft endfloat is within the specified limits, using a dial gauge, or by inserting a feeler blade between the thrust flange of the centre main bearing shell and the machined surface of the crankshaft (see illustrations). Before measuring, ensure that the crankshaft is fully forced towards one end of the crankcase, to give the widest possible gap at the measuring location. Incorrect endfloat will most likely be due to crankshaft wear or to incorrect regrinding, assuming that the correct bearing shells have been fitted.

2A•32 SOHC engine procedures

34.19 Fitting a central main bearing shell. Note thrust flanges -

2.0 litre SOHC engine

34.24 Lubricate the main bearing shells before fitting the caps -

2.0 litre SOHC engine

34.30B . . .or a feeler blade -

2.0 litre SOHC engine

34.27A Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the specified torque . . .

34.27B . . .then through the specified angle - 2.0 litre SOHC engine

34.30A Check crankshaft endfloat using a dial gauge . . .

34.25B . . .and the lower surfaces with sealing compound -

2.0 litre SOHC engine

34.25A Fill the side grooves of the rear main bearing cap with RTV jointing

compound . . .

34.22 Lowering the crankshaft into the

crankcase -

2.0 litre SOHC engine

Page 67

31 Refit the previously removed

components, referring to the relevant Sections of this Chapter.

35 Crankshaft and bearings -

examination

Examination

1 Examine the crankpin and main journal surfaces for signs of scoring or scratches, and check the ovality and taper of the crankpins and main journals. If the bearing surface dimensions do not fall within the tolerance ranges given in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter, the crankpins and/or main journals will have to be reground. 2 Big-end and crankpin wear is accompanied by distinct metallic knocking, particularly noticeable when the engine is pulling from low revs, and some loss of oil pressure. 3 Main bearing and main journal wear is accompanied by severe engine vibration rumble

- getting progressively worse as engine rev’s increase - and again by loss of oil pressure. 4 If the crankshaft requires regrinding, take it to an engine reconditioning specialist, who will machine it for you and supply the correct undersize bearing shells. 5 Inspect the big-end and main bearing shells for signs of general wear, scoring, pitting and scratches. The bearings should be matt grey in colour. With leadindium bearings, should a trace of copper colour be noticed, the bearings are badly worn, as the lead bearing material has worn away to expose the indium underlay. Renew the bearings if they are in this condition, or if there are any signs of scoring or pitting. You are strongly advised

to renew the bearings - regardless of their condition at time of major overhaul. Refitting used bearings is a false economy.

6 The undersizes available are designed to correspond with crankshaft regrind sizes. The

bearings are in fact, slightly more than the stated undersize, as running clearances have been allowed for during their manufacture. 7 Main and big-end bearing shells can be identified as to size by the marking on the back of the shell. Standard size shell bearings are marked STD or .00, undersize shells are marked with the undersize such as 0.020 u/s. This marking method applies only to replacement bearing shells, and not to those used during production. 8 An accurate method of determining bearing wear is by using a Plastigage. The crankshaft is located in the main bearings (and, if necessary, the big-end bearings), and the Plastigage filament is located across the journal. Vauxhall recommend that the crankshaft journal and bearing shells are lightly lubricated, to prevent the Plastigage from tearing as the bearing cap is removed. The bearing cap should be fitted, and the bolts tightened to the specified torque. The cap is then removed, and the width of the filament is checked against a scale that shows the bearing running clearance. The clearance should be compared with that given in the Specifications. 9 Where applicable, check the teeth of the crankshaft TDC sensor wheel for damage (see illustration). If evident, the crankshaft must be renewed. 10 Similarly, check the condition of the pins in the front crankshaft balance weight, which serve as detect points for the plug-in diagnostic sensor used by Vauxhall dealers

(see illustration).

36 Cylinder block and bores -

examination and renovation

Examination

1 Examine the cylinder bores for taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by

carefully examining the top of the cylinder bores. If they are at all worn, a very slight ridge will be found on the thrust side. This marks the top of the piston ring travel. The owner will have a good indication of the bore wear before dismantling the engine, or removing the cylinder head. Excessive oil consumption, accompanied by blue smoke from the exhaust, is a sure sign of worn cylinder bores and piston rings. 2 Measure the bore diameter across the block, and just below any ridge. This can be done with an internal micrometer or a dial gauge. Compare this with the diameter of the bottom of the bore, which is not subject to wear. If no measuring instruments are available, use a piston from which the rings have been removed, and measure the gap between it and the cylinder wall with a feeler blade. Refer to the Specifications. If the cylinder wear exceeds the permitted tolerances, then the cylinders will need reboring, in which case note the following points:

a) Piston and cylinder bores are closely

matched in production. The actual diameter of the piston is indicated by numbers on its crown; the same numbers stamped on the crankcase indicate the bore diameter

b) After reboring has taken place, the

cylinder bores should be measured accurately and oversize pistons selected from the grades available to give the specified piston-to-bore clearance

c) For grading purposes, the piston diameter

is measured across the bottom of the skirt

3 If the wear is marginal and within the tolerances given, new special piston rings can be fitted to offset the wear. 4 Thoroughly examine the crankcase and cylinder block for cracks and damage, and use a piece of wire to probe all oilways and waterways to ensure that they are unobstructed.

SOHC engine procedures 2A•33

35.10 Check the condition of the pins (arrowed) in the front crankshaft balance weight - 2.0 litre SOHC engine

35.9 Check the condition of the TDC sensor wheel teeth at the front of the crankshaft - 2.0 litre SOHC engine

Page 68

5 Note that the rubber plug located next to the bellhousing flange on the cylinder block covers the aperture for the installation of a diagnostic TDC sensor. The sensor, when connected to a monitoring unit, indicates TDC from the position of the pins set into the crankshaft balance weight.

37 Examination and renovation

- general

General

1 With the engine completely stripped, clean all components and examine them for wear. Each component should be checked, and where necessary renewed or renovated, as described in the relevant Sections of this Chapter. 2 Renew main and big-end bearing shells as a matter of course, unless it is known that they have had little wear, and are in perfect condition. 3 If in doubt whether to renew a component that is still just serviceable, consider the time and effort that will be incurred should the component fail at an early date after rebuild. Obviously, the age and expected life of the vehicle must influence the standards applied.

4 Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel, cylinder head, and main and big-end bearing cap bolts must be renewed, because of the high stress to which they are subjected. 5 Renew the engine core plugs while they are easily accessible, if they show signs of leakage. Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smear the new plugs with sealing compound, and tap them squarely into position.

38 Initial start-up after major

overhaul or repair

1 Make a final check to ensure that everything has been reconnected to the engine, and that no rags or tools have been left in the engine compartment. 2 Check that oil and coolant levels are correct. 3 Start the engine. This may take a little longer than usual, as fuel is pumped to the engine. 4 Check that the oil pressure warning lamp goes out when the engine starts. This may take a few seconds as the new oil filter fills with oil.

5 Run the engine at a fast tickover, and check for leaks of oil, fuel and coolant. If a new camshaft has been fitted, pay careful attention to the running-in procedure given in Section 18, paragraphs 17 and 18. Where applicable, check the power steering and/or automatic transmission fluid cooler unions for leakage. Some smoke and odd smells may be experienced, as assembly lubricants and sealers burn off the various components. 6 Bring the engine to normal operating temperature. Check the ignition timing, idle speed and the mixture (where applicable), as described in Chapter 4A or 4B. 7 Allow the engine to cool, then recheck the oil and coolant levels. Top-up if necessary 8 If new bearings, pistons, etc., have been fitted, the engine should be run-in at reduced speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800 km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine oil and filter after this mileage.

2A•34 SOHC engine procedures

Page 69

Note: All specifications as for 2.0 litre SOHC engines, unless shown otherwise

General

Type (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, water-cooled, transversely mounted. Double

belt-driven overhead camshafts, acting on hydraulic valve lifters

Manufacturer’s engine codes:

20 XEJ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litre (1998 cc)

C20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litre (1998 cc) + catalyst

X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litre (1998 cc) + catalyst. ‘Ecotec’ type engine

Compression ratio:

20 XEJ and C20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.5 : 1

X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.8 : 1

Maximum power:

20 XEJ and C20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 kW (150 bhp) at 6000 rpm

X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 kW (136 bhp) at 5400 rpm

Maximum torque:

20 XEJ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Nm at 4800 rpm

C20 XE

Up to model year 1993 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Nm at 4800 rpm

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Nm at 4600 rpm

X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Nm at 4000 rpm

Cylinder Head

Overall height of cylinder head (sealing surface to sealing surface):

20 XEJ and C20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135.58 to 135.68 mm

X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134.00 mm

Installation height of valve guide:

20 XEJ and C20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.70 to 11.00 mm

X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.70 to 14.00 mm

Camshaft

Camshaft bearing journal diameter (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27.939 to 27.960 mm

Camshaft bearing diameter in housing (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.000 to 28.021 mm

Cam lift:

20 XEJ and C20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 mm

X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm

Maximum permissible radial run-out:

20 XEJ and C20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 mm

X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.06 mm

Endfloat (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.040 to 0.144 mm

Chapter 2 Part B:

DOHC engine procedures

Camshaft front oil seal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Camshafts - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Cylinder head - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . .8

Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine removed) . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Engine - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Engine/transmission mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Oil cooler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Timing belt, sprockets and belt tensioner and idler pulleys - removal,

refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Timing belt, with automatic adjuster - removal, refitting and

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Valve lifters - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

2B•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 70

Valves and guides Inlet Exhaust

Overall length - production (mm):

20 XEJ and C20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105.0 105.0

X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102.0 92.0

Overall length - service (mm):

20 XEJ and C20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104.6 104.6

X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101.7 91.8

Head diameter (mm):

20 XEJ and C20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.0 ± 0.1 29.0 ± 0.1

X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.0 ± 0.1 29.0 ± 0.1

Stem diameter (mm):

20 XEJ and C20 XE

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.955 to 6.970 6.945 to 6.960

0.075 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.030 to 7.045 7.020 to 7.035

0.150 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.105 to 7.120 7.095 to 7.110

0.250 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.205 to 7.220 7.195 to 7.210

X20 XEV

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.955 to 5.970 5.945 to 5.960

0.075 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.030 to 6.045 6.020 to 6.035

0.150 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.105 to 6.120 6.095 to 6.110

Valve guide bore (mm):

20 XEJ and C20 XE

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.000 to 7.015

0.075 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.075 to 7.090

0.150 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.150 to 7.165

0.250 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.400 to 7.415

X20 XEV

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.000 to 6.012

0.075 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.075 to 6.090

0.150 mm oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.150 to 6.165

Valve seat angle (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44° 40’

Lubrication system

Lubricant capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications

Oil pressure at idle (engine warm):

20 XEJ and C20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar

X20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 bar

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Note: Use new bolts (or nuts, if applicable), where asterisked (*).

Alternator to cylinder block bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26

Brake servo line to inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Camshaft bearing cap to cylinder head (M6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Camshaft bearing cap to cylinder head (M8) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Camshaft bearing cap to head (X20 XEV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Camshaft pulley to camshaft (1993-on models):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 60°

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 15°

Coolant pipe to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Cover to cylinder head (M6 bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Cover to cylinder head (M8 nuts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Cover to exhaust manifold (X20 XEV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4

Crankshaft pulse pick-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4

Exhaust manifold to cylinder head * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Exhaust pipe to adapter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Inlet manifold support to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Intermediate shaft bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Knock sensor to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 14

Oil cooler lines to adapter/oil cooler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Oil filter to oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Oil dipstick flange to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Oil pump safety valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Oil pump, threaded adapter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17

Power steering pump to support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Spark plug lead cover to cylinder head cover:

20 XEJ and C20 XE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

X 20 XEV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4

2B•2 DOHC engine procedures

Page 71

Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm lbf ft

Starter to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Starter support to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Temperature regulator plug (M20) * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Timing belt cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Timing belt drive gear to crankshaft: *

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 184

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by between 40° and 50°

Timing belt guide roller bracket to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Timing belt guide roller to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Timing belt guide roller to cylinder block:

Engines up to 1993

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 45°

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle tighten by 15°

1993-on engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Transfer box bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Transmission to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

1 General

This part of Chapter 2 describes procedures that are specific to the DOHC engine. It should be read in conjunction with Part A.

The lower engine is basically the same as the 2.0 litre SOHC. However the pistons are attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon pins, which are fully floating, and are secured by circlips.

Both camshafts on these engines are driven from the crankshaft by one toothed composite rubber belt. Each cylinder has four valves (two inlet and two exhaust), operated directly from the camshafts by hydraulic self-adjusting valve lifters. One camshaft operates the inlet valves, and the other operates the exhaust valves.

DOHC models are fitted with a remotely mounted oil cooler.

The distributor is driven directly from the exhaust camshaft.

2 Engine - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Carry out procedure in Chapter 2A, noting the following differences. 2 With the car safely raised, remove the engine undershield. 3 The fuel hoses need to be disconnected from the fuel rail. 4 Disconnect coolant hoses from the cylinder block and cylinder head. Also disconnect the oil cooler pipe unions from the oil pump. 5 Unbolt the right-hand driveshaft centre bearing support bracket from the rear of the cylinder block.

Refitting

6 Refitting the engine is similar to the

procedure in Chapter 2A. The exceptions being, replacement of the right-hand driveshaft centre bearing support bracket at the rear of the cylinder block and retightening the securing bolts.

7 Replace the undershield.

3 Engine/transmission

mountings - renewal

The procedure for replacing the engine/ transmission is similar to SOHC models, see Chapter 2A. However this engine is fitted with an undershield that needs to be removed before replacing the mounts. Do not forget to replace the undershield before lowering the car.

4 Timing belt, sprockets and belt

tensioner and idler pulleys -

removal, refitting and adjustment

Note: The timing belt should be renewed on refitting. A two-legged puller may be required to remove the crankshaft sprocket

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2 Disconnect the air cleaner trunking from the

airflow meter, then remove the cover and the air cleaner element from the air cleaner. If desired, for improved access, the complete air cleaner assembly can be removed, as described in Chapter 4B. 3 Remove the power steering pump drivebelt, as described in Chapter 10. 4 Remove the alternator drivebelt, as described in Chapter 5. 5 Remove the three securing screws, and withdraw the outer timing belt cover. Recover the rubber grommets from the screw holes in the cover if they are loose. 6 Turn the crankshaft using a Torx socket on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, until the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are aligned with the notches in the camshaft cover. The notch in the crankshaft pulley should also be aligned with the pointer on the rear timing belt cover (see illustrations). 7 Extract the six securing bolts using a splined bit, and withdraw the crankshaft pulley (see illustration). If necessary, counterhold the crankshaft using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket bolt. If the engine is in the vehicle, the crankshaft can be prevented from turning by having an assistant engage first gear and depress the brake pedal. Alternatively, the flywheel ring gear teeth can be jammed using a large screwdriver or similar tool. Before removing the pulley, check that the timing marks are still aligned.

DOHC engine procedures 2B•3

4.6B . . .and notch in crankshaft pulley aligned with pointer on rear timing belt

cover (circled)

4.6A Camshaft sprocket TDC mark

aligned with notch in camshaft cover

Page 72

8 Loosen the securing bolt and release the timing belt tensioner pulley, then slide the belt from the sprockets and pulleys (see

illustration). 9 If desired, the sprockets, tensioner and idler

pulleys, and the rear timing belt cover can be removed as follows, otherwise go on to paragraph 27. 10 To remove the camshaft sprockets, first disconnect the breather hoses from the camshaft cover (see illustration). 11 Extract the two securing bolts and remove the spark plug cover (see illustration), then disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, and unclip them from the end of the camshaft cover. If necessary, mark the HT leads for position, to avoid confusion when refitting. 12 Unscrew the twenty securing bolts and withdraw the camshaft cover (see

illustration).

13 Recover the one-piece rubber gasket (see illustration). 14 Prevent the relevant camshaft from

turning by holding it with a spanner on the flats provided in front of No 1 cam lobe, and unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt (see

illustration). 15 Withdraw the sprocket from the end of the

camshaft, then repeat the procedure for the remaining camshaft sprocket. 16 Remove the crankshaft sprocket. It will be necessary to prevent the crankshaft from turning by bolting a metal bar to the sprocket using two of the crankshaft pulley bolts, or by jamming the flywheel ring gear teeth. A Torx socket will be required to unscrew the sprocket bolt - take care, as the bolt is very tight. If necessary, use a two-legged puller to remove the sprocket. Recover the thrustwashers from the end of the crankshaft, and from under the bolt head.

17 To remove the belt tensioner pulley, simply unscrew the securing bolt from the centre of the pulley, then withdraw the pulley complete with mounting plate (see illustration). Recover the spacer sleeve from the pulley bolt. 18 To remove the belt idler pulley, unscrew the securing bolt from the centre of the pulley, then withdraw the pulley and recover the spacer sleeve from the pulley bolt. 19 The rear timing belt cover can now be removed after unscrewing the upper and middle studs for the timing belt outer cover screws. Note that the upper stud simply unscrews from the cylinder head, but the middle stud is secured by a bolt. Unscrew the two upper and single lower right-hand rear belt cover securing bolts, and withdraw the rear belt cover (see illustrations).

Refitting

20 Refit the rear timing belt cover using a reversal of the removal procedure. 21 Refit the belt idler and tensioner pulleys, noting that the spacer sleeves should be fitted with their smaller diameters against the pulleys (see illustration). Do not fully tighten the tensioner pulley bolt at this stage. 22 Refit the thrustwasher to the end of the crankshaft, then refit the crankshaft sprocket.

2B•4 DOHC engine procedures

4.7 Crankshaft pulley and securing bolts viewed through right-hand wheel arch

4.10 Disconnecting a breather hose from the rear of the camshaft cover

4.17 Timing belt pulley components

1 Tensioner pulley securing bolt 2 Tensioner pulley mounting plate 3 Idler pulley securing bolt

4.14 Spanner positioned to counterhold exhaust camshaft

4.13 Camshaft cover removed to show one-piece rubber gasket

4.12 Unscrewing a camshaft cover securing bolt

4.11 Removing the spark plug cover

4.8 Timing belt tensioner pulley securing bolt (arrowed)

Page 73

Apply a little grease to the threads of the securing bolt, and tighten it to the specified torque in the two stages given in the Specifications. Ensure that the thrustwasher is in place under the bolt head, and prevent the crankshaft from turning as during removal. 23 Refit the camshaft sprockets. Ensure that the locating pins on the ends of the camshafts engage with the holes in the sprockets and with the sprocket timing marks facing forwards. Then tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque in the two stages given in the Specifications. Prevent the camshafts from turning as during removal. 24 Check the condition of the camshaft cover rubber gasket and renew if necessary, then refit the camshaft cover and tighten the securing bolts (see illustration). 25 Refit the HT leads to the spark plugs (ensuring that they are refitted to their correct cylinders), then clip the leads to the end of the camshaft cover. Refit the spark plug cover and tighten the securing bolts. 26 Reconnect the breather hose to the camshaft cover. 27 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and ensure that the crankshaft pulley and camshaft sprocket timing marks are still aligned as described in paragraph 6. Then fit a new timing belt around the sprockets and pulleys, starting at the crankshaft sprocket. 28 Refit the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. If necessary, prevent the crankshaft from turning as during removal.

29 Adjust the timing belt tension, as described from paragraph 35 onwards. 30 Refit the outer timing belt cover, ensuring that the rubber grommets are in place in the screw holes, and tighten the securing screws. 31 Refit the alternator drivebelt and adjust the drivebelt tension, as described in Chapter

5. 32 Refit the power steering pump drivebelt and adjust the drivebelt tension, as described in Chapter 10. 33 Refit the air cleaner components as applicable, referring to Chapter 4B, if necessary. 34 Reconnect the battery negative lead.

Adjustment

Note: The manufacturers specify the use of special adjustment wrench Vauxhall tool No KM-666 for adjusting the timing belt tension. If access to this tool cannot be obtained an approximate adjustment can be achieved using the method described in this Section. However it is emphasised that the vehicle should be taken to a dealer at the earliest possible opportunity to have the tension adjusted using the special tool. Do not drive the vehicle over any long distance until the belt tension has been adjusted by a dealer

Approximate adjustment

35 No checking of timing belt adjustment is

specified, and the following adjustment procedure applies to a newly fitted belt. The adjustment must be carried out with the engine cold.

36 With the timing belt cover removed and the tensioner pulley bolt slackened, ensure that the TDC marks on the camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft pulley are aligned as described in paragraph 6. If necessary, turn the crankshaft to achieve alignment. 37 Have an assistant press the tensioner pulley against the belt until the belt can just be twisted through 45°, using moderate pressure with the thumb and forefinger, on the longest belt run between the exhaust camshaft sprocket and the belt idler pulley. 38 Have the assistant hold the tensioner pulley in position, and tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to the specified torque in the two stages given in the Specifications. 39 Turn the crankshaft clockwise through two complete revolutions, and check that, with the crankshaft pulley TDC mark aligned with the pointer on the rear timing belt cover, the TDC marks on the camshaft sprockets are still aligned with the notches in the camshaft cover. 40 Proceed as described in paragraphs 30 to 34, inclusive. 41 Have the belt tension adjusted by a Vauxhall dealer using the manufacturer’s special tool at the earliest opportunity.

Adjustment using Vauxhall special tool (KM-666)

42 Proceed as described in paragraphs 35

and 36. 43 Fit the special tool KM -666 to the belt tensioner pulley mounting plate, in accordance with the tool manufacturer’s instructions. 44 Working anti-clockwise from the TDC mark on the exhaust camshaft sprocket, mark the seventh tooth on the sprocket (see

illustration). 45 Turn the crankshaft clockwise until this

tooth is aligned with the TDC notch in the camshaft cover. The crankshaft must be turned evenly and without jerking, to prevent the timing belt from jumping off the sprockets and pulleys. 46 Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to the specified torque in the two stages given in the Specifications. 47 Remove the special tool.

DOHC engine procedures 2B•5

4.21 Belt tensioner pulley and spacer sleeve. Note that smaller diameter of

spacer sleeve fits against pulley

4.44 Working anti-clockwise from the TDC mark on the exhaust camshaft sprocket,

mark the seventh tooth on the sprocket

4.24 Tightening a camshaft cover securing bolt

4.19B Rear timing belt cover lower righthand securing bolt

4.19A Timing belt outer cover screw upper stud (1) and rear belt cover upper

securing bolts (2)

Page 74

48 Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the TDC marks on the camshaft sprockets are aligned with the notches in the camshaft cover, and check that the crankshaft pulley TDC mark is aligned with the pointer on the rear timing belt cover. 49 Proceed as described in paragraphs 30 to 34 inclusive.

5 Timing belt, with automatic

adjuster - removal, refitting

and adjustment

Removal

1 The operations are essentially the same as described in Section 4, except that the tensioner pulley incorporates an automatic adjuster that simplifies the procedure as follows. 2 To release the belt tension before removal, unscrew the timing belt tensioner pulley securing bolt slightly then, with a large screwdriver (or similar tool) inserted in the slot on the tensioner arm, turn the tensioner arm until the timing belt is slack. Tighten the securing bolt slightly to hold the tensioner in this position.

Refitting

3 To refit the timing belt, first ensure that the coolant pump is correctly positioned by checking that the lug on the coolant pump flange is aligned with the corresponding lug on the cylinder block. If this is not the case, slacken the coolant pump mounting bolts slightly and move the pump accordingly. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque on completion (see Chapter 3). 4 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4, then tension it as follows.

Adjustment

5 Slacken the tensioner pulley securing bolt and move the tensioner arm anti-clockwise, until the tensioner pointer lies at its stop. Tighten the tensioner pulley securing bolt to hold the tensioner in this position. 6 Turn the crankshaft through two complete revolutions in the normal direction of rotation and check that with the crankshaft pulley TDC mark aligned with the pointer on the rear timing belt cover, the TDC marks on the camshaft sprockets are still aligned with the notches in the camshaft cover. 7 Slacken the tensioner pulley securing bolt once again and move the tensioner arm clockwise, until the tensioner pointer is aligned with the notch in the tensioner. In the first few hours of operation a new belt will be subjected to ‘settling-in’, (known as the running-in procedure). If you are refitting a used belt (one that has been ‘run-in’), align the pointer to approximately 4 mm to the left of the notch, refer to Section 14 in Chapter 2A. Tighten the tensioner pulley securing bolt securely. Turn the crankshaft through one

complete revolution in the normal direction of rotation and check that the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks still align, then refit the remainder of the components as described in Section 4. 8 With the timing belt adjustment set in this way, correct tension will always be maintained by the automatic tensioner and no further checking or adjustment will be necessary.

6 Camshaft front oil seal -

removal and refitting

Note: A new timing belt should be used on refitting

Removal

1 The camshaft front oil seals may be renewed with the engine in the vehicle without removing the camshafts as follows. 2 Remove the timing belt and the relevant camshaft sprocket(s), as described in Section 4. 3 Punch or drill a small hole in the centre of the now-exposed oil seal. Screw in a self-tapping screw, and pull on the screw with pliers to extract the seal. 4 Clean the oil seal seat with a wooden or plastic scraper. 5 Turn the camshaft until the locating peg for the camshaft sprocket is uppermost, then lubricate the lips of a new camshaft front oil seal with a little grease, and fit the oil seal, using a tube or socket of similar diameter with a washer and the camshaft sprocket bolt.

Screw the camshaft sprocket bolt into the end of the camshaft to draw the oil seal into position on its shoulder (see illustration). 6 Where applicable, repeat the procedure on the remaining camshaft oil seal.

Refitting

7 Refit the camshaft sprockets, the timing belt and tension the timing belt as described in Sections 4 and 5.

7 Camshafts - removal,

inspection and refitting

Note: A new timing belt should be used on refitting

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt and the relevant camshaft sprockets, as described in Section 4. 2 If the exhaust camshaft is to be removed, unscrew the two securing bolts and remove the distributor from the end of the cylinder head, referring to Chapter 5, if necessary. 3 Check the camshaft bearing caps for identification marks, and if none are present, make corresponding marks on the bearing caps and the top surface of the cylinder head using a centre punch. Note the orientation of the bearing caps before removal, as they must be refitted in exactly the same positions from which they are removed (see illustration). 4 Loosen the relevant camshaft bearing cap nuts by half a turn, then loosen all the nuts by a further half turn and so on (this is necessary to slowly relieve the tension in the valve springs). Note that the exhaust camshaft rear bearing cap that also supports the distributor is secured by four nuts (see illustration). 5 Remove the bearing cap nuts and the bearing caps, then carefully lift the relevant camshaft from the cylinder head without jerking. 6 Repeat the procedure for the remaining camshaft if desired.

Inspection

7 With the camshaft(s) removed, examine the bearing surfaces in the cylinder head and bearing caps for signs of obvious wear or

2B•6 DOHC engine procedures

6.5 Using the camshaft sprocket bolt,

washer, and a tube to fit a new camshaft

front oil seal

7.4 Exhaust camshaft rear bearing cap securing nuts (arrowed)

7.3 Camshaft bearing cap. Note position of identification mark (arrowed)

Page 75

pitting. If evident, the cylinder head and all bearing caps must be renewed as a matched set, as there is no provision for refacing if the bearing caps cannot be renewed individually. 8 The camshaft(s) should show no marks or scoring on the journal or cam lobe surfaces. if evident, renew the camshaft(s). 9 It is advisable to renew the camshaft front oil seal(s) as a matter of course. Prise the old seal(s) from the front of the camshaft(s) and discard them.

Refitting

10 Begin refitting by liberally coating the contact faces of the hydraulic valve lifters and the camshaft(s) with molybdenum disulphide paste. 11 Coat the mating faces of the front and rear bearing caps with sealing compound and refit the bearing caps in their original positions as noted during removal. 12 Tighten the camshaft bearing cap nuts to the specified torque in half-turn stages, as when loosening the nuts. Note that when refitting the exhaust camshaft, the two smaller rear bearing cap securing nuts should be tightened after all the main camshaft bearing cap nuts have been tightened. Note also that the two smaller nuts should be tightened to a lower torque wrench setting than the main nuts. 13 Turn the camshaft until the locating peg for the camshaft sprocket is uppermost, then lubricate the lips of a rear camshaft front oil seal with a little grease, and fit the oil seal, using a tube or socket of similar diameter with a washer and the camshaft sprocket bolt. Screw the camshaft sprocket bolt into the end of the camshaft to draw the oil seal into position on its shoulder. 14 Repeat the procedure for the remaining camshaft. 15 Refit the distributor with reference to Chapter 5. Fit a new timing belt and the camshaft sprockets, then adjust the timing belt as described in Section 4 or 5, as applicable.

8 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting (engine in vehicle)

Note: The engine must be cold when the cylinder head is removed. Do not remove the cylinder head from a hot engine. New cylinder head bolts, a new cylinder head gasket and a new timing belt must be used on refitting. The torque settings (as shown in Chapter 2A) are only applicable to latest specification head bolts, available from Vauxhall. Earlier type or alternative make, head bolts may require different torques. Consult your supplier

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Drain the cooling system, as described in

Chapter 3.

3 Remove the front section of the exhaust system, as described in Chapter 4C. 4 The cylinder head can be removed complete with the inlet manifold, or the inlet manifold can be detached from the cylinder head before removal, with reference to Chapter 4B. If no work is to be carried out on the inlet manifold, it can be unbolted from the cylinder head and supported to one side out of the way, thus avoiding the need to disconnect the relevant hoses, pipes and wiring. 5 If the cylinder head is to be removed complete with the inlet manifold, disconnect all relevant hoses, pipes and wiring from the inlet manifold and associated components, referring to Chapter 4B, and unbolt the manifold support bracket from the manifold. Loosen the alternator mountings with reference to Chapter 5, then unbolt the upper alternator mounting from the inlet manifold. 6 If the inlet manifold is to be left in the engine compartment, continue as follows, otherwise go on to paragraph 17. 7 Disconnect the wiring plug from the airflow meter, and the breather hose from the air box on the throttle body. Disconnect the air cleaner trunking and remove the airflow meter/air box assembly from the throttle body. Refer to Chapter 4B if necessary. 8 Disconnect the end of the throttle cable from the throttle valve lever, then unbolt the throttle cable support bracket and remove it from the inlet manifold. 9 Unscrew the two earth lead securing nuts from the fuel rail (one at each end of the rail) and disconnect the three earth leads. 10 Disconnect the wiring plug from the throttle position switch. 11 Pull up on the wiring harness housing, and disconnect the wiring plugs from the fuel injectors by compressing the retaining clips. Move the wiring harness housing to one side. 12 Disconnect the two breather hoses from the rear of the camshaft cover. 13 Loosen the alternator mountings, with reference to Chapter 5, then unbolt the upper alternator mounting from the inlet manifold. 14 Unbolt the manifold support bracket from the manifold.

15 Make a final check to ensure that all necessary hoses, pipes and wires have been disconnected, then unscrew the securing nuts and lift the inlet manifold from the cylinder head. Ensure that the manifold is properly supported, taking care not to strain any of the hoses, pipes and wires, etc., which are still connected. 16 Recover the manifold gasket from the cylinder head. 17 Remove the timing belt, camshaft sprockets, and timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys, as described in Section 4. 18 Unscrew the upper and middle studs for the timing belt outer cover screws. Note that the upper stud simply unscrews from the cylinder head, but the middle stud is secured by a bolt. 19 Unscrew the two upper rear timing belt cover securing bolts from the cylinder head. 20 Remove the distributor cap and HT leads with reference to Chapter 5.

21 Disconnect the distributor wiring plug. 22 Disconnect the coolant hose from the

left-hand end of the cylinder head. 23 Unscrew the bolt securing the crankcase breather tube bracket to the end of the cylinder head. 24 Disconnect the radiator top hose from the thermostat housing, and disconnect the wiring plugs from the temperature gauge sender and the coolant temperature sensor (both situated in the thermostat housing). 25 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been disconnected. 26 On X20 XEV models, remove the camshaft, as described in Section 7. 27 Using a Torx socket, and working in the order shown (see illustrations), loosen all the cylinder head bolts by a quarter of a turn, then loosen all the bolts by half a turn, and finally loosen and remove the bolts. Recover the washers. Note that the loosening sequence on X20 XEV differs to other DOHC engines. 28 Lift the cylinder head from the cylinder block. If necessary, tap the cylinder head gently with a soft-faced mallet to free it from the block, but do not lever at the mating faces. Note that the cylinder head is located on dowels.

DOHC engine procedures 2B•7

8.27B Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence - (X 20 XEV engines)

8.27A Cylinder head bolt loosening

sequence - (20 XEJ and C 20 XE engines)

Page 76

29 Recover the cylinder head gasket and discard it. 30 Clean the cylinder head and block mating faces by careful scraping. Take care not to damage the cylinder head, which is made of light alloy and is easily scored. Cover the coolant passages and other openings with masking tape or rag, to prevent dirt and carbon falling in. Mop out all the oil from the bolt holes; if oil is left in the holes, hydraulic pressure could crack the block when the bolts are refitted. 31 If desired, the cylinder head can be dismantled and inspected as described in Section 10.

Refitting

32 Begin refitting by locating a new gasket on the block so that the word “OBEN” or “TOP” is uppermost at the timing belt end of the engine. 33 With the mating faces scrupulously clean, locate the cylinder head on the block so that the positioning dowels engage in their holes. 34 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft sprockets, and ensure that the timing marks are still positioned as they were before the timing belt was removed (see Section 4).

35 Fit the new cylinder head bolts, ensuring that the washers are in place under their heads, and screw the bolts in by hand as far as possible.

36 Tighten the bolts in the order shown (see illustrations). Note that the tightening

sequence on X20 XEV differs to other DOHC engines. Tighten the bolts in the four stages given in the Specification (see Chapter 2A, as

2.0 litre) - i.e. tighten all bolts to the Stage 1 torque, then tighten all bolts to Stage 2 and so on (see illustrations). 37 Further refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, remembering the following points. 38 Refit the timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys, camshaft sprockets and a new timing belt as described in Section 4, and tension the timing belt as described in Sections 4 and 5. 39 Where applicable, refit the inlet manifold to the cylinder head with reference to Chapter 4B, using a new gasket. 40 Refit the front section of the exhaust system as described in Chapter 4C, using a new gasket. 41 Refit the upper alternator mounting to the inlet manifold (where applicable), then adjust the alternator drivebelt tension, as described in Chapter 5.

42 Refill the cooling system, (Chapter 3).

43 On completion, check that all relevant

hoses, pipes and wires, etc., have been reconnected. 44 When the engine is started, check for signs of leaks. 45 Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, check and if necessary adjust the mixture (where applicable) with reference to Chapter 4B.

9 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting (engine removed)

Note: New cylinder head bolts, a new cylinder head gasket, and a new timing belt must be used on refitting. The torque settings (as shown in Chapter 2A) are only applicable to latest specification head bolts, available from Vauxhall. Earlier type or alternative make, head bolts may require different torques. Consult your supplier.

Removal

1 The cylinder head can be removed complete with the inlet manifold, or the inlet manifold can be detached from the cylinder head before removal, with reference to Chapter 4B. 2 Proceed as described in Section 8, paragraphs 17 to 19 inclusive. 3 If not already done, remove the distributor cap and HT leads, referring to Chapter 5.

2B•8 DOHC engine procedures

8.36A Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence 20 XEJ and C 20 XE engines

8.36C Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the specified torque . . .

8.36D . . .and then through the specified angle

8.36B Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence X 20 XEV engines

Warning: The exhaust valves fitted to 20 XEJ and C 20 XE models are fitted with sodium to

improve their heat transfer. Sodium is a highly reactive metal, which will ignite or explode spontaneously on contact with water (including water vapour in the air). These must NOT be disposed of with ordinary scrap. Seek advice from a Vauxhall dealer or your Local Authority, if the valves are to be disposed.

Page 77

4 Unscrew the bolt securing the crankcase breather tube bracket to the end of the cylinder head. 5 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been disconnected. 6 Continue as described in Section 8, paragraphs 26 to 31.

Refitting

7 Proceed as described in Section 8, paragraphs 32 to 38 inclusive but in addition note the following. 8 On completion, check that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires, etc., have been reconnected.

10 Cylinder head - dismantling

and reassembly

Dismantling

1 With the cylinder head removed as described in Section 8, clean away all external dirt. 2 If not already done, remove the thermostat housing and thermostat as described in Chapter 3, and remove the manifolds as described in Chapters 4B and 4C. 3 Remove the spark plugs (if not already done), and remove the distributor with reference to Chapter 5. 4 Remove the camshafts as described in Section 7. 5 Remove the hydraulic valve lifters from their bores using a rubber suction plunger tool - do not invert the cylinder head to remove the valve lifters. Keep the valve lifters upright at all times (oil groove at bottom (see illustration)), and immerse them in order of removal in a container of clean engine oil until they are to be refitted. 6 To remove the valve components, continue as described in Chapter 2A, Section 22,

paragraphs 3 to 7 inclusive. 7 The cylinder head and valves can be inspected for wear and damage as described in Chapter 2A, Section 23.

Reassembly

8 With all components cleaned, refit the valve components as described in Chapter 2A, Section 22, paragraphs 10 to 19 inclusive. 9 Refit the hydraulic valve lifters to the cylinder head in their original positions. Liberally oil the valve lifter bores, and if new lifters are being fitted, initially immerse each one in a container of clean engine oil and compress it (by hand) several times to charge it. 10 Refit the camshafts, as described in Section 7. 11 Refit the spark plugs if desired, and refit the distributor with reference to Chapter 5. 12 Where applicable, refit the manifolds and/or the thermostat and housing. 13 Refit the cylinder head, as described in Sections 8 and 9, as applicable.

11 Valve lifters - general

Although the valve lifters on these engines cannot be dismantled they should be carefully inspected for obvious signs of wear on the contact faces. Also check the valve lifter oil holes for obstructions and for any signs of oil sludge build-up. If excessive wear is evident (this is unlikely), all the valve lifters must be renewed as a set.

12 Crankshaft front oil seal -

renewal

1 The procedure is similar to SOHC models

(see Chapter 2A), noting the following points. 2 The spacer ring (if fitted), from the end of the crankshaft, must be removed, before refitting. 3 After fitting the new seal, coat the oil pump mating face of the spacer ring with sealing compound, then push the spacer ring onto the end of the crankshaft, until it is seated against the oil pump.

4 The timing belt should be renewed. 5 Refit the rear timing belt cover and the

timing belt, as described in Section 4. Adjust it as described in Section 4 and 5.

13 Sump - removal and refitting

Note: Sump gaskets, cannot be reused. Ensure that new gaskets are obtained before removing the sump

Removal

1 The procedure is similar to SOHC models (see Chapter 2A), with the following variations.

2 The engine undershield must be removed. 3 Remove both the cork gaskets and clean all

sealing surfaces, scrupulously.

Refitting

4 Locate a new gasket on the cylinder block, if necessary applying a little sealing compound to hold it in place. 5 Locate the remaining new gasket on the sump baffle, but do not use sealing compound.

14 Oil pump - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Apart from the following variations, the procedure is the same as for SOHC models. 2 If the engine is still in the vehicle, disconnect the oil cooler pipe unions from the oil pump, and move the pipes to one side out

DOHC engine procedures 2B•9

14.2 Oil cooler pipe unions at oil pump

10.5 Remove the hydraulic valve lifters using a rubber plunger. Inset (A) shows valve lifter upright, with oil groove (arrowed) at bottom

Page 78

of the way (see illustration). 3 Remove the spacer ring from the end of the crankshaft (see illustration).

Refitting

4 Coat the oil pump mating face of the spacer ring with sealing compound, then push the spacer ring onto the end of the crankshaft until it is seated against the oil pump. 5 The timing belt should be renewed, see Sections 4 and 5, for details. 6 Remember also to reconnect the oil cooler pipes to the oil pump, and tighten the unions.

15 Oil cooler - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 To gain sufficient access to remove the oil cooler, the radiator must be removed (as described in Chapter 3). Alternatively, the front bumper can be removed, as described in Chapter 11 (see illustration). 2 With the appropriate component(s)

removed for access, unscrew the oil cooler pipe unions from the oil cooler. Be prepared for oil spillage, and plug the open ends of the pipes, to prevent further oil leakage and dirt ingress. 3 Unscrew the two securing nuts, and withdraw the oil cooler from its mounting brackets.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on completion, check and if necessary top-up the engine oil level, as described in Chapter 1.

2B•10 DOHC engine procedures

15.1 Oil cooler viewed through front spoiler. Securing nuts arrowed

14.3 Oil pump securing bolts (arrowed) and crankshaft spacer ring (A)

Page 79

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressurised, with remote expansion tank. Coolant pump driven by

timing belt

Coolant

Type/specification (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Lubricants and fluids in “Weekly checks”

Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications

Thermostat

Starts to open at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92°C

Fully open at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107°C

Operating temperature (approx.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80°C

Expansion tank cap

Opening pressure (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20 to 1.35 bar

Boiling point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125°C

Cooling fan switch

Switches on at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100°C

Switches off at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95°C

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Coolant pump bolts:

1.4 and 1.6 litre models

(except C16 NZ2), (M6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models (M8) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Oil pipes to radiator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Outlet to thermostat housing,

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Temperature sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8

Thermostat housing to cylinder head:

1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Coolant mixture - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Coolant pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Cooling fan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Cooling fan switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Cooling system - draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Cooling system - filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Cooling system - flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Expansion tank and coolant level sensor - removal and refitting . . . .13

Facia ventilation nozzles - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Heater blower motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Heater control panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Heater matrix - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Radiator (automatic transmission) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .7

Radiator (manual transmission) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Radiator - inspection and cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Temperature gauge sender - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Thermostat - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Thermostat - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

3•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 80

1 General description

Engine cooling is achieved by a conventional pump-assisted system, in which the coolant is pressurised. The system consists of a radiator, a coolant pump driven by the engine timing belt, an electric cooling fan, a thermostat, an expansion tank, and connecting hoses. Hoses also carry coolant to and from the heater matrix, which provides heat for the ventilation and heating system.

The system works in the following way. Cold coolant from one side of the radiator, which is mounted at the front of the engine compartment, passes to the coolant pump, which forces the coolant through the coolant passages in the cylinder block and cylinder head. The coolant absorbs heat from the engine, and then returns to the radiator through the heater matrix. As the coolant flows across the radiator it is cooled, and the cycle is repeated.

Air flows through the radiator, to cool the coolant as a result of the vehicle’s forward motion. However, if the coolant temperature exceeds a given figure, a temperature-sensitive switch in the radiator switches on the electric fan, to increase the airflow through the radiator. The fan only operates when necessary, with a consequent reduction in noise and energy consumption.

To reduce the time taken for the engine to warm up when starting from cold, the thermostat, located in the cylinder head outlet, prevents coolant flowing to the radiator until the temperature has risen sufficiently. Instead, the outflow from the cylinder head bypasses the radiator, and is redirected around the engine. When the temperature reaches a given figure, the thermostat opens, to allow coolant to flow to the radiator. The thermostat is operated by the expansion of a temperature sensitive wax capsule.

An expansion tank is incorporated in the system, to allow for coolant expansion. The system is topped up through a filler cap on the expansion tank.

Note that later models may be fitted with self-tensioning spring clamps to secure the cooling system (including heater) hoses. These clamps can be released by squeezing together their free ends using a large pair of self-grip pliers or similar so that the clamp can be moved up the hose, clear of the union. Check that the clamp is securely seated, and check for leaks on reassembly.

2 Cooling system - draining

1 With the vehicle parked on level ground, remove the expansion tank filler cap. If the engine is warm, cover the filler cap with a thick cloth, and unscrew the cap slowly, to gradually relieve the system pressure. Take care to avoid scalding by steam or coolant escaping from the pressurised system. 2 On DOHC models, remove the engine undershield, with reference to Chapter 11. 3 Position a container beneath the radiator bottom hose connection, then slacken the hose clip and ease the hose from the radiator stub. If the hose joint has not been disturbed for some time, it will be necessary to manipulate the hose to break the joint. Allow the coolant to drain into the container. 4 As no cylinder block drain plug is fitted, and the radiator bottom hose may be situated halfway up the radiator, the system cannot be drained completely. Care should therefore be taken when refilling the system to maintain antifreeze strength. 5 If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided it is clean and less than two years old, it can be re-used. 6 If the coolant has been drained for renewal, and is badly contaminated, the coolant system should be flushed as described in Section 4. As the system cannot be drained completely, it is advisable to flush the system whenever the coolant is renewed, to minimise the impurities remaining in the system.

3 Cooling system - flushing

1 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time the cooling system will gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits and other sediment. To restore coolant system efficiency, it is necessary to flush the system clean. 2 The radiator should be flushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination. 3 To flush the radiator, disconnect the top hose at the radiator, then insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet (the bottom hose should have been disconnected to drain the system). If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is important that the manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and flush the radiator in reverse. 4 To flush the engine, continue as follows.

1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16 NZ2)

5 Remove the thermostat as described in Section 9, then temporarily refit the thermostat cover. 6 With the radiator top and bottom hoses disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator bottom hose. Direct a flow of clean water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator top hose. 7 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat, and reconnect the hoses.

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models

8 Remove the thermostat and cover assembly, as described in Section 9. 9 With the radiator bottom hose disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator bottom hose. Direct a flow of clean water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the thermostat housing. It is advisable to place a sheet of plastic under the thermostat housing to deflect water away from the engine and surrounding components during the flushing process. 10 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and cover assembly, reconnect the hoses and remove the sheet of plastic.

4 Cooling system - filling

1 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the alloy engine components - refer to Section 5. 2 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16 NZ2), disconnect the wire and unscrew the coolant temperature sender from the inlet manifold. 3 Remove the expansion tank cap, and fill the system by slowly pouring the coolant into the expansion tank to prevent air locks from forming. 4 If the coolant is being renewed, begin by pouring in a couple of pints of water, followed by the correct quantity of antifreeze (see Section 5), then top-up with more water. 5 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16 NZ2), refit the coolant temperature sender when coolant free of air bubbles emerges from the orifice in the inlet manifold. 6 Top-up the coolant level to the “COLD” (or “KALT”) mark on the expansion tank, then refit the expansion tank cap. 7 Start the engine and run it until it reaches normal operating temperature, then stop the engine and allow it to cool. 8 Check for leaks, particularly around disturbed components. Check the coolant

3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

When renewing any hoses, use a little soapy water as a lubricant, or soften the hose in hot water. Do not use oil or

grease, as this may attack the rubber.

Page 81

level in the expansion tank, and top-up if necessary. Note that the system must be cold before an accurate level is indicated in the expansion tank. If the expansion tank cap is removed while the engine is still warm, cover the cap with a thick cloth and unscrew the cap slowly, to gradually relieve the system pressure. Take care to avoid scalding by steam or coolant escaping from the pressurised system. 9 On DOHC models, refit the engine undershield on completion.

5 Coolant mixture - general

1 It is important to use an antifreeze mixture

in the cooling system all year round, to prevent corrosion of the alloy engine components. The coolant mixture should be made up from clean, preferably soft, tap water, and a good quality antifreeze containing corrosion inhibitor. Ensure that the antifreeze is ethylene glycol based, as the cheaper methanol based types evaporate over a period of time. 2 The proportions of water and antifreeze used will depend on the degree of protection required. A coolant mixture containing 25% antifreeze should be regarded as the minimum strength required to maintain good anti-corrosion properties. Details of the degree of protection provided against freezing will be supplied with the antifreeze by the manufacturers. For absolute protection, use a 50% antifreeze mixture. 3 The coolant mixture should be renewed every two years, as the corrosion inhibitors will deteriorate with time. 4 Before filling the system with fresh coolant, drain and flush the system, as described in Sections 2 and 3, and check that all hoses are secure and that the clips are tight. Antifreeze has a searching action, and will leak more

rapidly than plain water. 5 Refill the system as described in Section 4. All future topping-up should be carried out using a coolant mixture of the same proportions as that used to initially fill the system. 6 Do not use antifreeze in the windscreen wash system, as it will attack the vehicle paintwork. Note that antifreeze is poisonous, and must be handled with due care.

6 Radiator (manual

transmission) - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 The radiator can be removed complete with the coolant fan and shroud if there is no need to disturb the fan. If desired, the fan and its shroud can be removed from the radiator, with reference to Section 12. 2 Drain the cooling system, as described in Section 2. 3 Disconnect the radiator top hose and the expansion tank at the radiator. 4 Disconnect the battery negative lead, then disconnect the wiring from the cooling fan switch, located at the bottom right-hand side of the radiator.

5 Disconnect the cooling fan wiring connector, noting its location for use when refitting. 6 Compress and remove the two radiator securing clips, located at the top corners of the radiator (see illustration). 7 Pull the top of the radiator back towards the engine to free it from the top mountings, then lift the radiator to disengage the lower securing lugs. Move the radiator clear of the vehicle, taking care not to damage the cooling fins (see illustrations).

Refitting

8 The radiator can be inspected and cleaned as described in Section 8. 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points. 10 Ensure that the radiator rubber mountings are in good condition and renew if necessary, and ensure that the lower securing lugs engage correctly as the radiator is refitted.

11 Refill the cooling system, (Section 4).

7 Radiator (automatic

transmission) - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 On models with automatic transmission, the radiator left-hand side tank incorporates a heat exchanger to cool the transmission fluid. It is connected to the transmission by a pair of flexible hoses, with a metal pipe at each end. 2 When removing the radiator, either clamp the transmission fluid cooler flexible hoses, or slacken their clamps, work them off their unions and swiftly plug or cap each hose end and union to minimise the loss of fluid and to prevent the entry of dirt.

Refitting

3 On refitting, reverse the removal procedure and do not forget to check the transmission fluid level, topping-up as necessary to replace the lost fluid, as described in Chapter 7B.

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3

6.7B Withdrawing the radiator -

2.0 litre SOHC model

6.7A Radiator freed from top right-hand mounting -

1.6 litre model

6.6 Compressing a radiator securing clip -

2.0 litre SOHC model

Page 82

8 Radiator - inspection and

cleaning

1 If the radiator has been removed due to suspected blockage, reverse-flush it as described in Section 3. 2 Clean dirt and debris from the radiator fins, using an air jet or a soft brush. Take care, as the fins are easily damaged and are sharp. 3 If necessary, a radiator specialist can perform a “flow test” on the radiator, to establish whether an internal blockage exists. 4 A leaking radiator must be referred to a specialist for permanent repair. Do not attempt to weld or solder a leaking radiator, as damage to the plastic components may result. 5 In an emergency, minor leaks from the radiator can be cured by using a radiator sealant.

9 Thermostat - removal and

refitting

Note: A new O-ring should be used when refitting the thermostat

1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16 NZ2)

Removal

1 Partially drain the cooling system, as

described in Section 2. 2 Remove the timing belt and the camshaft sprocket, as described in Chapters 2A or 2B, (as applicable). 3 Unscrew and remove the two upper bolts securing the rear timing belt cover to the cylinder head, and the lower right-hand bolt securing the cover to the cylinder block. 4 Disconnect the coolant hose from the thermostat housing. 5 Pull the rear timing belt cover forwards, away from the cylinder head, for access to the two thermostat housing securing bolts. 6 Unscrew and remove the two thermostat housing securing bolts, and lift off the thermostat housing (see illustration).

7 Withdraw the thermostat from the cylinder head, noting that coolant may be released from the radiator bottom outlet as the thermostat is withdrawn, even though the cooling system has been partially drained

(see illustration). 8 Remove the sealing ring from the edge of

the thermostat. 9 If desired, the thermostat can be tested, as described in Section 10.

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, using a

new sealing ring, and bearing in mind the following points. 11 Refit the camshaft sprocket and timing belt, and tension the timing belt, as described in Chapters 2A or 2B. 12 Refill the cooling system, (Section 4).

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models

Removal

13 Remove the engine undershield, if fitted.

Partially drain the cooling system, as described in Section 2. 14 Disconnect the radiator top hose from the thermostat cover. 15 Unscrew and remove the thermostat cover securing bolts, and withdraw the cover complete with thermostat. Recover the O-ring

(see illustrations). 16 If desired, the thermostat can be tested,

as described in Section 10. 17 Note that if it is necessary to renew the thermostat, the complete cover and thermostat must be renewed as an assembly, as the two cannot be separated.

Refitting

18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a

new O-ring, and on completion refill the cooling system, as described in Section 4.

10 Thermostat - testing

1 A rough test of the thermostat may be made by suspending it with a piece of string in a container full of water. Heat the water to bring it to the boil - the thermostat must open by the time the water boils. If not, renew it. 2 If a thermometer is available, the precise opening temperature of the thermostat may be determined, and compared with the figures given in the Specifications. The opening temperature is also marked on the thermostat

(see illustration). 3 A thermostat that fails to close as the water

cools must also be renewed.

11 Coolant pump - removal and

refitting

SOHC models

Removal

1 If the engine is in the vehicle, drain the

cooling system, as described in Section 2. 2 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16 NZ2), remove the rear timing belt cover. On

3•4 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

9.6 Remove the thermostat housing . . . 9.15A Withdraw the thermostat cover complete with thermostat . . .

10.2 View of thermostat showing opening temperature markings - 1.6 litre model

9.15B . . .and recover the O-ring -

2.0 litre SOHC model

9.7 . . .and withdraw the thermostat -

1.6 litre model

Page 83

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, remove the timing belt. Details are as described in Chapter 2A. 3 Remove timing belt tension roller from oil pump, where applicable. 4 Unscrew and remove the coolant pump securing bolts (see illustration). 5 Withdraw the coolant pump from the cylinder block, and recover the O-ring (see illustrations). It may be necessary to tap the pump lightly with a plastic-faced hammer to free it from the cylinder block. 6 If desired, the rear timing belt cover can be removed from the pump by rotating the cover to release it from the flange on the pump. 7 No overhaul of the coolant pump is possible, and if faulty, the unit must be renewed.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in

mind the following points. 9 Use a new O-ring when refitting the pump. Before refitting the pump, smear the pump mounting face in the cylinder block and the Oring with a silicone grease or petroleum jelly. 10 Do not fully tighten the pump securing bolts until the timing belt has been fitted and tensioned. 11 Refit and tension the timing belt, as described in Chapter 2A. 12 If the engine is in the vehicle, refill the cooling system, as described in Section 4.

DOHC models

Removal

13 Remove the engine undershield. 14 If the engine is in the vehicle, drain the

cooling system, as described in Section 2. 15 Remove the timing belt, camshaft sprockets, crankshaft sprocket, timing belt tensioner and idler rollers, and the timing belt rear cover, as described in Chapter 2B. 16 Proceed as described in paragraphs 4 and 5. 17 No overhaul of the coolant pump is possible, and if faulty, the unit must be renewed.

Refitting

18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing

in mind the following points.

19 Always use a new O -ring. Before fitting the pump, smear the pump mating face in the cylinder block and the O-ring with a silicone grease or petroleum jelly. 20 Refit the pump, and ensure that the lugs on the pump and the cylinder block are aligned before tightening the pump securing bolts (see illustration). 21 Refit the remaining components, and tension the timing belt, as described in Chapter 2B. 22 If the engine is in the vehicle, refill the cooling system, as described in Section 4. Replace the undershield.

12 Cooling fan - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Disconnect the wiring from the cooling fan,

noting the location of the wiring connector for use when refitting. 3 Unscrew the two upper fan shroud securing bolts from the top corners of the shroud, then tilt the assembly back slightly towards the engine, and withdraw it upwards away from the radiator (see illustration). 4 To separate the fan motor from the shroud, unscrew the three securing nuts. If desired, the fan blades can be separated from the motor by removing the securing spring clip from the end of the motor shaft.

5 No spare parts are available for the motor, and if the unit is faulty, it must be renewed.

Refitting

6 Reassembly (where applicable), and refitting are reversals of the dismantling and removal procedures, but ensure that the lower end of the fan shroud locates correctly on the radiator. 7 On completion, start the engine and run it until it reaches normal operating temperature, then continue to run the engine and check that the cooling fan cuts in and functions correctly.

13 Expansion tank and coolant

level sensor - removal and

refitting

Expansion tank

Removal

1 The expansion tank is secured by a single

screw at its front edge. If the tank is to be moved for access purposes, it should be possible to move it sufficiently within the confines of the hoses once the securing screw has been removed. If the tank is to be removed completely, continue as follows. 2 Disconnect the two hoses from the top of the expansion tank, and suspend them above the height of the engine to prevent coolant loss. 3 Remove the tank securing screw, then manipulate the tank from its location, holding it as high as possible above the engine.

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5

11.5B . . .and recover the O-ring -

2.0 litre SOHC model

12.3 Withdrawing the fan shroud assembly

- 2.0 litre SOHC model

11.20 Lugs (arrowed) on coolant pump and cylinder block must be aligned -

DOHC models

11.5A Withdraw the coolant pump . . .11.4 Coolant pump securing bolt

(arrowed) - 2.0 litre SOHC model

Page 84

4 Position a container beneath the tank, then disconnect the bottom hose and allow the contents of the tank to drain into the container. Suspend the bottom hose as high as possible above the engine to prevent coolant loss.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on

completion check and if necessary top-up the coolant level, as described in Section 4. The coolant drained from the expansion tank during removal can be re-used, provided it has not been contaminated.

Coolant level sensor

6 The coolant level sensor, where fitted, is an integral part of the expansion tank cap. If the level sensor is faulty, the complete cap assembly must be renewed.

14 Temperature gauge sender -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 The sender is screwed into the inlet manifold on 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16 NZ2), and into the thermostat housing on C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models (see

illustrations). 2 Partially drain the cooling system, as

described in Section 2, to minimise coolant spillage.

3 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

4 Disconnect the wiring from the switch, then

unscrew the switch from its location.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points. 6 Coat the sender threads with sealant before fitting. 7 Top-up the cooling system, as described in Section 4. 8 On completion, start the engine and check the operation of the temperature gauge. Also check for coolant leaks.

15 Cooling fan switch - removal

and refitting

Note: A new sealing ring should be used when refitting the switch

Removal

1 The cooling fan switch is located at the bottom right-hand corner of the radiator (see

illustration). 2 If a faulty switch is suspected, the circuit to

the fan motor can be tested by temporarily bridging the terminals in the switch wiring plug, and switching on the ignition. If the cooling fan now operates, the switch is faulty and should be renewed. To remove the switch, continue as follows. 3 Disconnect the battery negative lead, then disconnect the switch wiring plug if not already done.

4 Drain the cooling system, as described in Section 2. 5 Unscrew the switch from the radiator and recover the sealing ring.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a new sealing ring, and refill the cooling system as described in Section 4. 7 On completion, start the engine and run it until it reaches normal operating temperature, then continue to run the engine and check that the cooling fan cuts in and functions correctly.

16 Heater control panel -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the passenger side footwell trim,

the steering column shrouds, and the instrument panel lower and upper trim panels, as described in Chapter 11. 3 Remove the clock or trip computer, as applicable, from the facia, referring to Chapter 12 if necessary. 4 Remove the two heater control panel securing screws from the clock/trip computer aperture, and the remaining securing screw from the right-hand end of the panel (exposed by removing the instrument panel lower trim panel), (see illustrations).

3•6 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

14.1A Disconnecting the wiring from the

temperature gauge sender - 1.6 litre model

14.1C Temperature gauge sender location (arrowed) - 2.0 litre DOHC model

16.4B . . . and the remaining screw from the right-hand end of the panel

16.4A Remove the two heater control

panel securing screws from the clock/trip

computer aperture . . .

15.1 Cooling fan switch location -

2.0 litre SOHC model viewed from below

14.1B Temperature gauge sender location (arrowed) - 2.0 litre SOHC model

Page 85

5 Working through the passenger footwell,

reach up behind the facia, and disconnect the bowden cables from the control levers at the rear of the heater control panel. Note that each cable is secured by a plastic clip, and in some cases, by an additional metal clip, which must be released before the cable end can be disconnected from the control lever (see illustration). This is a tricky operation, and some patience will be required. Mark the cables to ensure that they are refitted in their original positions. 6 Withdraw the heater control panel from the facia, and disconnect the wiring plugs from the rear of the panel.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on completion, move all the control levers through their full extent of travel, and check the heater mechanism for correct operation.

17 Heater matrix - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system, (Section 2). 2 Working in the engine compartment,

disconnect the coolant hoses from the heater matrix pipes at the bulkhead. 3 Working inside the vehicle, remove the front centre console section, (Chapter 11). 4 Extract the two front and two rear securing screws, and remove the plastic cover from under the heater matrix (see illustration).

5 Remove the two front retaining screws from the heater matrix securing straps, then lower the securing straps and withdraw the heater matrix from the facia (see illustration). The pipes at the rear of the matrix must be fed through the bulkhead, and the grommets in the heater matrix housing may be displaced as the matrix is withdrawn. Where applicable, recover the grommets.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points. 7 Ensure that the coolant pipe grommets are seated correctly in the heater matrix housing, as shown (see illustration). 8 Ensure that the rubber mounting strips are correctly seated between the mounting straps and the matrix. 9 On completion, refill the cooling system, as described in Section 4.

18 Heater blower motor -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 The heater blower motor is situated under the windscreen cowl panel. 2 Remove the windscreen cowl panel, as described in Chapter 11. 3 Remove the windscreen wiper motor and linkage, as described in Chapter 12.

4 Unclip the cover from the top of the motor (see illustration). 5 Disconnect the motor wiring plug.

6 Remove the two clamp screws, then lift off

the clamp and withdraw the motor assembly from its housing (see illustration). 7 It is possible to renew the motor resistor by pressing the retaining clips together to release the resistor bracket. Fit the new resistor, ensuring that the retaining clips lock it into position (see illustration). 8 No overhaul of the motor assembly is possible, and if faulty, the unit must be renewed.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring that the mounting rubber is correctly seated between the clamp and the motor.

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•7

17.5 Unscrewing a heater matrix securing strap screw

18.6 Unscrewing a heater blower motor clamp screw

18.7 Heater blower motor resistor retaining clip (arrowed)

18.4 Unclip the cover from the heater blower motor

17.7 Heater matrix coolant pipe grommet location

1 Coolant pipe 2 Engine compartment bulkhead 3 Heater matrix housing 4 Grommet

17.4 Removing the plastic cover from the heater matrix

16.5 Heater control cables disconnected, showing cable end securing clips

Page 86

19 Facia ventilation nozzles -

removal and refitting

Centre facia ventilation nozzles

Removal

1 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise the cap

from the hazard warning flasher switch. 2 Carefully prise the nozzle assembly from the facia, using a screwdriver with a piece of card under the blade, to avoid damage to the facia trim (see illustrations). 3 If desired, the nozzle housing can be removed as follows. 4 Move the knurled airflow adjuster wheel to the “O” position, then pull the actuating rod sideways from its carrier. 5 Release the two lower securing clips by levering with a screwdriver and pull the housing from the facia.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note

that if the housing has been removed, the airflow adjuster actuating rod must be pulled out to its stop, then pressed into its carrier with the adjuster wheel in the “O” position.

Passenger side facia ventilation nozzle

Removal

7 Carefully prise the nozzle from the facia,

using a screwdriver with a piece of card under the blade, to avoid damage to the facia trim. 8 If desired, the nozzle housing can be removed as follows. 9 Move the knurled airflow adjuster wheel to the “O” position, then pull the actuating rod sideways from its carrier. 10 Extract the single screw securing the housing to the facia, then release the securing clips and pull the housing from the facia.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, with

reference to paragraph 6.

Driver’s side facia ventilation nozzle

12 The procedure is as described for the passenger side nozzle, except that there is no screw securing the housing to the facia.

Side window demister nozzles

Removal

13 Simply prise the nozzle from the facia,

taking care not to damage the facia trim.

Refitting

14 To refit, push the nozzle into position until

it locks.

3•8 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

19.2A Using a screwdriver with protected blade . . . 19.2B . . . to release the centre facia ventilation nozzles

Page 87

General

Fuel tank capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61.0 litres

Fuel octane rating:

Leaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 RON (4-star)

Unleaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON (Premium)

Carburettor type (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pierburg 2E3

Air cleaner element

Application:

Round type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W103

Square type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U512

14 NV engine

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 925 ± 25 rpm

Idle mixture (CO content) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5%

Fast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2200 to 2600 rpm

Choke valve gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 3.5 mm

Choke pull-down gap:

“Small” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7 to 2.1 mm

“Large” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 to 2.9 mm

Idle fuel jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Idle air bleed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130

Primary Secondary

Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.0 mm 24.0 mm

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X95 X110

Chapter 4 Part A:

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

Accelerator pump - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Air cleaner inlet air temperature control - description and testing . . . .4

Air cleaner - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Automatic choke unit - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . .19

Automatic choke vacuum pull-down units - removal, refitting and

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Carburettor - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Carburettor - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Carburettor filter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Fuel level sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Fuel pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Fuel pump - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Fuel system - precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Fuel tank - removal, examination and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Fuel vapour separator (1.6 and 1.8 litre models) - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Idle cut-off solenoid (1.8 litre models) - description and testing . . . .25

Idle speed and mixture - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Idle speed increase valve - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Needle valve and float - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . .15

Power valve diaphragm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Secondary throttle valve vacuum diaphragm - testing, removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Throttle cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Throttle pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Throttle position sensor (automatic transmission models) - removal

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Throttle valve dashpot (automatic transmission models) -

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

4A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 88

16 SV engine

Idle speed

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 925 ± 25 rpm

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 825 ± 25 rpm (in ‘park’ or ‘neutral’)

Idle mixture (CO content) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5%

Fast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2000 to 2400 rpm

Choke valve gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 3.5 mm

Choke pull-down gap:

Up to 1990:

“Small” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 1.7 mm

“Large” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 to 2.3 mm

From 1990:

“Small” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 1.7 mm

“Large” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 to 2.2 mm

Idle fuel jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Idle air bleed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.5

Primary Secondary

Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.0 mm 24.0 mm

Main jet:

Up to 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X95 X105

From 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X92.5 X105

18 SV engine

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 925 ± 25 rpm

Idle mixture (CO content) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5%

Fast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1900 to 2300 rpm

Choke valve gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 3.5 mm

Choke pull-down gap:

“Small” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 ± 0.2 mm

“Large” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.3 ± 0.2 mm

Idle fuel jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.5

Idle air bleed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.5

Primary Secondary

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107.5 125

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Exhaust downpipe-to-manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Exhaust fixings except flexible joint bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Exhaust flexible joint bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Fuel pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Fuel tank mounting strap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Inlet manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

1 General description

The fuel system on all carburettor models comprises a fuel tank, a fuel pump, a vapour separator (1.6 and 1.8 litre models only), a downdraught carburettor, and a thermostatically-controlled air cleaner.

The fuel tank is mounted under the rear of the vehicle, forward of the rear suspension. The tank is ventilated to the atmosphere, and has a simple filler pipe and a fuel gauge sender unit.

The fuel pump is a mechanical diaphragm type, actuated by a pushrod bearing on the camshaft.

The fuel vapour separator is used to stabilise the fuel supply to the carburettor. Vapour is purged from the carburettor fuel supply, thus improving hot starting qualities.

The carburettor is a Pierburg 2E3 type, a full description of which is given in Section 12.

The air cleaner has a wax or vacuumcontrolled air inlet supplying a blend of hot and cold air to suit the prevailing engine operating conditions. A fuller description is given in Section 4.

All engines available within the Cavalier range can be operated on unleaded petrol see Chapter 5.

2 Fuel system - precautions

1 Certain adjustment points in the fuel system

are protected by tamperproof caps, plugs or seals. In some territories, it is an offence to drive a vehicle with broken or missing tamperproof seals. Before disturbing a tamperproof seal, check that no local or national laws will be broken by doing so, and fit a new tamperproof seal after adjustment is complete, where required by law. Do not break tamperproof seals on a vehicle that is still under warranty.

2 When working on fuel system components, scrupulous cleanliness must be observed, and care must be taken not to introduce any foreign matter into fuel lines or components. Carburettors in particular are delicate instruments, and care should be taken not to disturb any components unnecessarily. Before attempting work on a carburettor, ensure that the relevant spares are available. Full overhaul procedures for carburettors have not been given in this Chapter. Complete stripdown of a carburettor is unlikely to cure a fault that is not immediately obvious, without introducing new problems. If persistent problems are met, it is recommended that the advice of a Vauxhall dealer or carburettor specialist is sought. Most dealers will be able to provide carburettor re-setting and servicing facilities, and if necessary it should be possible to buy a reconditioned carburettor. 3 Refer to Chapter 5, for precautions to be observed when working on vehicles fitted with an engine management system.

4A•2 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

Page 89

3 Air cleaner - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Remove the air cleaner element, as described in Chapter 1. 2 Release the crankcase ventilation hose from the plastic clip on the left-hand side of the air cleaner body. 3 Disconnect the inlet duct from the hot air hose on the exhaust manifold (see illustration), and lift the air cleaner body from the carburettor. 4 With the body tilted to the rear, disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the stub on the underside of the body (see illustration). Where applicable, disconnect the vacuum hose from the air temperature control flap thermostat. 5 Remove the seal from under the air cleaner body.

Refitting

6 Check the hot air hose for condition, and renew it if necessary. 7 Fit a new air cleaner body-to-carburettor seal. 8 Connect the crankcase ventilation hose to the stub on the underside of the body, and connect the vacuum hose for the air temperature control flap. 9 Locate the body on the carburettor, and at the same time locate the inlet duct on the hot air hose on the exhaust manifold. 10 Engage the crankshaft ventilation hose in the plastic clip. 11 Refit the air cleaner element, referring to Chapter 1 if necessary.

4 Air cleaner inlet air

temperature control -

description and testing

Description

1 The air cleaner is thermostaticallycontrolled, to provide air at the most suitable temperature for combustion with minimum exhaust emission levels. 2 The optimum air temperature is achieved by drawing in cold air from an inlet at the front of the vehicle, and blending it with hot air

drawn from a shroud on the exhaust manifold. The proportion of hot and cold air is varied by the position of a flap valve in the air cleaner inlet spout, which is controlled by either a vacuum diaphragm or wax-type unit. The vacuum diaphragm type is regulated by a heat sensor located within the air cleaner body (see illustration).

Testing

3 To check the operation of the air temperature control, the engine must be cold. First check the position of the flap valve. On the vacuum type, remove the air cleaner cover and check that the flap is open to admit only cold air from outside the car. Then start the engine and check that the flap now moves to admit only hot air from the exhaust manifold. On the wax type, the flap should already be positioned to admit only hot air from the exhaust manifold. 4 Temporarily refit the cover on the vacuum type. 5 Run the engine until it reaches its normal operating temperature. 6 On the vacuum type, remove the air cleaner cover and check that the flap is now positioned to admit only cold air from outside the car. In cold weather it should be a mixture of hot and cold air. Refit the cover after making the check. On the wax type, use a mirror to check that the flap is positioned in the same way as given for the vacuum type. 7 If the flap does not function correctly, the air cleaner casing must be renewed. Note that the vacuum type thermostat can be renewed separately if necessary.

5 Fuel pump - testing

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding 1 Disconnect the ignition coil LT lead. 2 Place a clean piece of rag under the pump

outlet, then disconnect the pump outlet hose. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. 3 Have an assistant crank the engine on the starter. Well-defined spurts of fuel must be ejected from the pump outlet - if not, the pump is probably faulty (or the tank is empty). Dispose of the fuel-soaked rag safely. 4 No spare parts are available for the pump, and if faulty, the unit must be renewed.

6 Fuel pump - removal and

refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Removal

1 The fuel pump is located at the rear righthand end of the camshaft housing.

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 3 Disconnect the fuel hoses from the pump (see illustration). If necessary, label the

hoses so that they can be reconnected to their correct locations. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage.

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•3

3.4 Disconnecting the crankcase ventilation hose (arrowed)

6.3 Disconnecting a fuel hose from the fuel pump - 1.6 litre model

4.2 Air cleaner flap valve operating mechanism

1 Flap valve 2 Operating rod

3.3 The air cleaner body locates over the hot air hose

Warning: Many of the procedures given in this Chapter involve the

disconnection of fuel pipes and system components, which may result in some fuel spillage. Before carrying out any operation on the fuel system, refer to the precautions given in the “Safety first!” Section at the beginning of this manual and follow them implicitly. Petrol is a highly dangerous and volatile substance, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed.

Page 90

4 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and withdraw the pump from the camshaft housing (see illustration). 5 Recover the plastic insulating block.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the fuel hoses are reconnected to their correct locations as noted during removal, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. 7 Run the engine and check for leaks on completion. If leakage is evident, stop the engine immediately and rectify the problem without delay. Note that the engine may take a longer time than usual to start when the pump has been removed, as the pump refills with fuel.

7 Fuel tank - removal,

examination and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank

through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a clean metal container that can be sealed. 3 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”) placed under the body side members. 4 Disconnect the exhaust system front flexible joint. Suspend the front section of the exhaust system with wire or string from the underbody. 5 Disconnect the rear section of the exhaust system from its rubber mountings, and allow it to rest on the rear suspension torsion beam. It is advisable to support the rear section of the exhaust at its front end, with wire or string from the underbody, to avoid straining the system. 6 Unclip the handbrake cable from the bracket on the left-hand fuel tank securing strap. 7 Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel level sender unit located in the right-hand side of the fuel tank. Make a note of the hose

positions for use when refitting. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss. 8 Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel level sender unit. 9 Disconnect the filler and vent hoses from the rear of the fuel tank. 10 Support the weight of the fuel tank on a jack with an interposed block of wood. 11 Unscrew the securing bolts from the tank mounting straps, then remove the straps and lower the tank sufficiently to enable the disconnection of the remaining vent hose. 12 With the aid of an assistant, withdraw the tank sideways from the right-hand side of the vehicle. Note that as the tank is withdrawn, some residual fuel may be released.

Examination

13 If the tank contains sediment or water, it may be cleaned out using two or three rinses with clean fuel. Shake vigorously using several changes of fuel, but before doing so, remove the fuel level sender unit, as described in Section 8. This procedure should be carried out in a well-ventilated area, and it is vital to take adequate fire precautions refer to the “Safety first!” Section at the beginning of this manual for further details. 14 Any repairs to the fuel tank should be carried out by a professional. Do not under any circumstances attempt to weld or solder a fuel tank. Removal of all residual fuel vapour requires several hours of specialist cleaning.

Refitting

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring that all hoses are reconnected to their correct locations as noted during removal. 16 On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run the engine and check for leaks. If leakage is evident, stop the engine immediately and rectify the problem without delay. Note that the engine may take a longer time than usual to start when the fuel tank has been removed, as the pump refills with fuel.

8 Fuel level sender unit -

removal and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank

through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a clear metal container that can be sealed. 3 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”) placed under the body side members. 4 The sender unit is located in the right-hand side at the fuel tank. 5 Make alignment marks on the sender unit and the fuel tank, so that the sender unit can be refitted in its original position.

6 Disconnect the fuel hoses from the sender unit. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss. 7 Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel level sender unit. 8 To remove the sender unit, engage a flat piece of metal as a lever between two of the slots on the sender unit rim, and turn it anticlockwise. 9 Withdraw the unit carefully, to avoid bending the float arm. 10 Recover the sealing ring.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points. 12 Examine the condition of the sealing ring, and renew if necessary. 13 Ensure that the marks made on the sender unit and fuel tank before removal are aligned. 14 Ensure that the hoses are reconnected to their correct locations as noted during removal. 15 On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run the engine and check for leaks. Also check that the fuel gauge reads correctly. If leakage is evident, stop the engine immediately and rectify the problem without delay. Note that the engine may take a longer time than usual to start when the sender unit has been removed, as the fuel pump refills with fuel.

9 Fuel vapour separator (1.6

and 1.8 litre models) -

removal and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Removal

1 The fuel vapour separator is located on a bracket attached to the side of the carburettor. 2 Note the locations of the three fuel hoses, labelling them if necessary for use when refitting, then disconnect the hoses from the vapour separator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage. 3 Remove the two securing screws, and lift the vapour separator from its bracket. 4 Check the body of the separator for cracks or leaks before refitting, and renew if necessary.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the three fuel hoses are connected to their correct locations as noted during removal. 6 Run the engine and check the hose connections for leaks on completion. If leakage is evident, stop the engine immediately and rectify the problem without delay.

4A•4 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

6.4 Withdrawing the fuel pump and plastic insulating block - 1.6 litre model

Page 91

10 Throttle pedal - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Working inside the vehicle, remove the lower trim panel from the driver’s footwell. 2 Slide the cable retainer from the bracket on the top of the pedal, and disconnect the cable end from the pedal. 3 Extract the circlip from the right-hand end of the pedal pivot shaft, then slide out the pivot shaft from the left-hand side of the pivot bracket (see illustration). Recover the pivot bushes and the pedal return spring. 4 Examine the pivot bushes for wear, and renew if necessary.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on completion check the throttle mechanism for satisfactory operation, and check the throttle cable adjustment, as described in Section 11.

11 Throttle cable - removal,

refitting and adjustment

Removal

1 Remove the air cleaner, on early models. On later models, disconnect the air trunking from the air cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe and breather hose from the air

box. Extract the three securing screws and lift off the air box, complete with air trunking (see

illustration). 2 Extract the clip from the cable end fitting at

the bracket on the carburettor, then slide the cable end grommet from the bracket (see

illustrations). 3 Slide the cable end from the throttle valve

lever on the carburettor. 4 Working inside the vehicle, remove the lower trim panel from the driver’s footwell. 5 Slide the cable retainer from the bracket on the top of the pedal, and disconnect the cable end from the pedal. 6 Make a careful note of the cable routing, then withdraw the cable through the bulkhead into the engine compartment.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points. 8 Ensure that the cable is correctly routed, as noted before removal. 9 Ensure that the bulkhead grommet is correctly seated in its hole.

Adjustment

10 On completion, check the throttle mechanism for satisfactory operation, and if necessary adjust the cable, as described in the following paragraphs. 11 Two points of cable adjustment are provided. A stop screw is located on the pedal arm to control the fully released position of the pedal stop (see illustration). A clip is located on a threaded section of the cable sheath at the bracket on the carburettor, to adjust the cable free play.

12 The cable should be adjusted so that when the throttle pedal is released, there is very slight free play in the cable at the carburettor end. 13 Check that when the throttle pedal is fully depressed, the throttle valve is fully open. Adjust the position of the clip on the cable sheath, and the pedal stop screw, to achieve the desired results.

12 Carburettor - general

1 The Pierburg 2E3 carburettor is of twin-

venturi, fixed-jet sequential throttle type. The primary throttle valve operates alone except at high engine speeds and loads, when the secondary throttle valve is operated, until at full-throttle, both are fully open. This arrangement allows good fuel economy during light acceleration and cruising, but also gives maximum power at full-throttle. The secondary throttle valve is vacuum-operated, according to the vacuum produced in the primary venturi. The primary throttle barrel and venturi diameters are smaller than their secondary counterparts. The carburettor is a complicated instrument, with various refinements and sub-systems added to achieve improved driveability, economy and exhaust emission levels (see illustrations).

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•5

11.2A Extract the throttle cable end clip . . .

12.1A Side view of carburettor, showing

accelerator pump (1) and main choke pull-

down diaphragm unit (2)

11.11 Throttle pedal stop screw11.2B . . .and slide the grommet from the

bracket

11.1 Removing an air box securing screw10.3 Throttle pedal pivot assembly. Circlip

arrowed

Page 92

2 A separate idle system operates independently from the main jet system, supplying fuel by way of the mixture control screw. 3 The main jets are calibrated to suit engine requirements at mid-range throttle openings. To provide the necessary fuel enrichment at full throttle, a vacuum-operated power valve is used. The valve provides extra fuel under the low vacuum conditions associated with wide throttle openings. 4 To provide an enriched mixture during acceleration, an accelerator pump delivers extra fuel to the primary main venturi. The accelerator pump is operated mechanically by a cam on the throttle linkage. 5 A fully automatic choke is fitted, operated by a coolant and electrically heated bi-metal coil. When the engine is cold, the bi-metal coil is fully wound up, holding the choke plate (fitted to the primary barrel) closed. As the engine warms up, the bi-metal coil is heated and therefore unwinds, progressively opening the choke plate. A vacuum operated pulldown system is employed, whereby, if the engine is under choke but is only cruising (i.e. not under heavy load) the choke plate is opened against the action of the bi-metal coil. The pull-down system prevents an over-rich mixture, which reduces fuel economy and may cause unnecessary engine wear when the engine is cold. A secondary pull-down solenoid is fitted, which operates in conjunction with the main diaphragm unit to modify the pull-down characteristics, improving fuel economy. 6 1.8 litre models are fitted with an idle cut-off solenoid. This is an electrically operated valve, which interrupts the idle mixture circuit when the ignition is switched off, this preventing engine “run-on”.

13 Carburettor - removal,

overhaul and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. New gasket(s) must be used when refitting the carburettor. A tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser will be required to check the idle speed and mixture on completion

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the air cleaner, on early models.

On later models, disconnect the air trunking from the air cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe and breather hose from the air box. Extract the three securing screws and lift off the air box, complete with air trunking. 3 On 1.4 litre models, disconnect the fuel supply hose from the carburettor, and on 1.6 and 1.8 litre models, disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses from the vapour separator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the ends of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage. 4 Extract the clip from the throttle cable end fitting at the bracket on the carburettor, then slide the cable end grommet from the bracket, and slide the cable end from the throttle valve lever. 5 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the automatic choke housing noting their locations, as an aid to refitting. Be prepared for coolant spillage, and plug the hoses, or secure them with their ends facing upwards, to prevent further coolant loss. 6 Disconnect the vacuum pipes from the front of the carburettor, noting their locations and routing for use when refitting (see

illustration). 7 Disconnect the choke heater wire and any

additional wiring.

8 Unscrew the three securing nuts, and withdraw the carburettor from the inlet manifold studs. 9 Recover the gasket(s) and insulator block that fit between the carburettor and the inlet manifold.

Overhaul

10 With the carburettor removed from the vehicle, drain the fuel from the float chamber and vapour separator (where applicable). Clean the outside of the carburettor, then remove the top cover (Section 15). 11 Blow through the jets and drillings with compressed air, or air from a foot pump - do not probe them with wire. If it is wished to remove the jets, unscrew them carefully with well-fitting tools. 12 Remove the fuel filter gauze from the inlet union, refer to Section 21, for details. Vauxhall recommend that it is renewed whenever the carburettor is cleaned.

4A•6 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

12.1B Side view of carburettor, showing automatic choke

housing (1), vapour separator (2) and secondary throttle valve

vacuum diaphragm (3)

12.1C Side view of carburettor, showing secondary choke pulldown solenoid (1) and power valve (2)

13.6 Disconnecting the air box vacuum

pipe from the carburettor - 1.6 litre model

Aerosol cans of carburettor cleaner are widely available and can prove useful in helping to clean internal

passages of stubborn obstructions.

Page 93

13 Clean any foreign matter from the float chamber. Renew the float, the float needle valve and seat if wear is evident, or if the float is punctured or otherwise damaged. Check that the needle valve closes completely before the float reaches the top of its movement. See Section 15, for details of float level checking. 14 Renew the diaphragms in the part -load enrichment valve and in the accelerator pump. If additional pump or valve parts are supplied in the overhaul kit, renew these parts also. 15 Further dismantling is not recommended. Pay particular attention to the throttle opening mechanism arrangement if it is decided to dismantle it; the interlocking arrangement is important. 16 Reassemble in the reverse order to dismantling. Use new gaskets and seals throughout; lubricate linkages with a smear of molybdenum based grease.

Refitting

17 Carry out the following procedure before refitting.

a) Position the fast idle adjustment screw on

the highest step of the fast idle cam.

b) Use a gauge rod or twist drill of the

specified diameter to measure the opening of the primary throttle valve.

c) Adjust if necessary at the fast idle

adjustment screw.

d) Note that this is a preliminary adjustment;

final adjustment of the fast idle speed should take place with the engine running.

18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but renew the gasket(s). 19 After refitting, carry out the following checks and adjustments. 20 Check the throttle cable free play and adjust if necessary, as described in Section 11. 21 Check and if necessary top-up the coolant level, as described in Chapter 3. 22 Check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture, as described in Section 14.

14 Idle speed and mixture -

adjustment

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. To carry out the adjustments, an accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required

1 To check the idle speed and mixture adjustment, the following conditions must be met:

a) The engine must be at normal operating

temperature

b) All electrical consumers (cooling fan,

heater blower, headlamps, etc.) must be switched off

c) The ignition timing and spark plug gaps

must be correctly adjusted - see Chapters 1 and 5

d) The throttle cable free play must be

correctly adjusted - see Section 11

e) The air inlet trunking must be free from

leaks, and the air filter must be clean

f) On automatic models, always select

position, “P”.

2 Connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser to the vehicle, according to the equipment manufacturer’s instructions. 3 Start the engine, and run it at 2000 rpm for approximately 30 seconds, then allow it to idle. If the idle speed is outside the specified limits, adjust by means of the throttle stop screw (see illustration). 4 When the idle speed is correct, check the CO level in the exhaust gas. If it is outside the specified limits, adjust by means of the idle mixture adjustment screw. In production, the screw is covered by a tamperproof plug; ensure that no local or national laws are being broken before removing the plug (see

illustration). 5 On automatic models, when position “D” is

selected (all electrical systems switched off), the idle speed should not drop perceptibly. If it does, the vehicle should be taken to a Vauxhall dealer for the idle-up system to be checked using special Vauxhall test equipment. 6 With the idle mixture correct, readjust the idle speed if necessary. 7 If the cooling fan cuts in during the adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments, and continue when the cooling fan stops. 8 When both idle speed and mixture are correctly set, stop the engine and disconnect the test equipment. 9 Fit a new tamperproof plug to the idle mixture adjustment screw, where this is required by law.

15 Needle valve and float -

removal, inspection and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A new carburettor top cover gasket must be used on reassembly. A tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser will be required to check the idle speed and mixture on completion

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the round air cleaner, on

applicable models. On other models, disconnect the air trunking from the air cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe and breather hose from the air box. Extract the three securing screws and lift off the air box, complete with air trunking. 3 Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the carburettor. 4 Disconnect the fuel supply hose at the carburettor. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the end of the hose, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage. 5 Identify the automatic choke coolant hose locations as an aid to refitting, then disconnect the hoses. Be prepared for coolant spillage, and either plug the hoses, or secure them with their ends facing upwards, to prevent further coolant loss.

6 Disconnect the choke heater wiring plug. 7 Disconnect the lower vacuum hoses from

the choke pull-down unit. 8 Remove the four carburettor top cover securing screws, noting their locations, as two lengths of screw are used (see illustration). 9 Lift off the top cover and recover the gasket.

Inspection

10 Hold the cover vertically, so that the float is hanging from its pivot. Then tilt the cover until the float needle valve is just closed - the needle spring must not be compressed by the weight of the float.

11 Measure the distance, dimension x (see illustration), from the bottom of the float to

the gasket surface on the top cover’s

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•7

15.8 Carburettor top cover securing screws (arrowed)

14.4 Tamperproof plug (arrowed) covering idle mixture adjustment screw

14.3 Carburettor idle speed adjustment (throttle stop) screw (arrowed)

Page 94

underside. If the distance measured exceeds, or is less than, that specified, the float weight is incorrect and the float must be renewed. 12 When the float level is known to be correct, reassemble the carburettor, using a new top cover gasket. Check the idle speed and mixture settings as described in Section

14. 13 Using a pin punch, tap the float retaining pin from the base of the top cover, and lift out the float and needle valve. 14 Inspect the components for damage, and renew as necessary. Check the needle valve for wear, and check the float for leaks by shaking it to see if it contains petrol. 15 Clean the mating faces of the carburettor body and top cover.

Refitting

16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points. 17 After refitting, check the float and needle valve for full and free movement. 18 Use a new gasket between the top cover and the carburettor body. 19 Ensure that all hoses, pipes and wires are correctly reconnected. 20 On completion, check and if necessary top-up the coolant level, as described in Chapter 3, and check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture, as described in Section 14.

16 Secondary throttle valve

vacuum diaphragm - testing,

removal and refitting

Note: The diaphragm unit must be renewed in its entirety, as no spares are available

Testing

1 If a vacuum source incorporating a gauge is available, apply approximately 300 mbars (9 in Hg) to the diaphragm unit, at the hose nearest the carburettor body. Close off the vacuum source, and check that the vacuum is held. If there is a leak, rectify or renew the leaking component. Alternately, testing of a suspect vacuum unit must be by the substitution of a known good item.

Removal

2 Remove the air cleaner, on early models. On later models, disconnect the air trunking from the air cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe air breather hose from the air box. Extract the three securing screws and lift off the air box, complete with air trunking. 3 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the diaphragm unit. 4 Prise the diaphragm operating rod balljoint from the secondary throttle valve linkage. 5 On 1.6 and 1.8 litre models, remove the two securing screws and lift the vapour separator from the bracket. Move the vapour separator to one side, taking care not to strain the fuel hoses.

6 Remove the three securing screws, and withdraw the diaphragm unit complete with its bracket from the carburettor body.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

17 Power valve diaphragm -

removal and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the air cleaner, on early models.

On later models, disconnect the air trunking from the air cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe and breather hose from the air

box. Extract the three securing screws and lift off the air box, complete with air trunking. 3 Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the area around the power valve housing. 4 Remove the two securing screws, and lift off the power valve cover, spring, and diaphragm assembly.

Refitting

5 Clean the mating faces of the cover and housing. 6 Locate the spring on the cover and diaphragm assembly, ensuring that it is correctly seated, then press the diaphragm assembly and cover together. Note that the vacuum hole in the diaphragm must align with the corresponding holes in the housing flange and cover. 7 Further refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the diaphragm is correctly seated

(see illustration).

18 Accelerator pump - testing,

removal and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Testing

1 It will be necessary to feed the float chamber with fuel from a small reservoir during this test. 2 Position the primary barrel over an accurate measuring glass. Fully open and close the throttle ten times, taking approximately one second for each opening, and pausing for three seconds after each return stroke. Make sure that the fast idle cam is not restricting throttle travel at either end. 3 Measure the quantity of fuel delivered, and compare this with the specified value.

4A•8 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

15.11 Measuring the float level “X”

17.7 Carburettor power valve components

1 Cover 2 Spring

3 Diaphragm

assembly

Page 95

4 If adjustment is necessary, release the clamp screw and turn the cam plate in the desired direction. Tighten the clamp screw, and recheck the pump delivery (see illustration).

Removal

5 Proceed as described in Section 17, paragraphs 1 and 2. 6 Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the area around the accelerator pump housing. 7 Remove the four securing screws and lift off the accelerator pump cover. Recover the diaphragm, spring, valve retainer and valve. Note the orientation of the valve retainer.

Refitting

8 Clean the mating faces of the cover and housing. 9 Check the condition of the valve, and renew if necessary. 10 Begin refitting by locating the valve, valve retainer and spring in the housing. Note that the valve retainer can only be fitted in one position. The larger diameter of the spring should rest against the valve retainer. 11 Locate the diaphragm on the housing, ensuring that the spring is correctly seated, and refit the cover. Tighten the cover securing screws progressively to avoid distorting the diaphragm (see illustration).

12 Further refitting is a reversal of removal.

19 Automatic choke unit -

removal, refitting and adjustment

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser will be required to check the idle speed and mixture on completion. If the coolant housing is removed, new O-rings will be required for refitting

Removal

1 Proceed as described in Section 17, paragraphs 1 and 2. 2 Note the position of the bi-metal housing alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if necessary making additional marks for clarity, then remove the three securing screws and lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing to one side, taking care not to strain the coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring. 3 Remove the three screws securing the choke housing to the carburettor body, and withdraw the choke assembly, taking care not to bend the choke operating rod. 4 If it is necessary to remove the bi-metal housing for renewal, continue as follows; otherwise go on to paragraph 8. 5 Identify the automatic choke coolant hose locations as an aid to refitting, then disconnect the hoses. Be prepared for coolant spillage, and either plug the hoses, or secure them with their ends facing upwards, to prevent further loss of coolant. 6 Disconnect the wiring from the electric choke heater, and withdraw the bi-metal housing. 7 The coolant housing can be separated from the bi-metal housing by unscrewing the central securing bolt. Recover the O-rings from under the bolt head, and from the rim of the coolant housing.

Refitting

8 Begin refitting by locating the choke assembly on the carburettor body, ensuring that the lever on the choke assembly engages with the choke operating rod. Tighten the three securing screws. 9 Check and if necessary adjust the choke valve gap and the fast idle cam position, as described in paragraphs 15 to 19, of this Section.

10 Connect the bi-metal spring to the choke lever, position the bi-metal housing on the choke housing, and loosely fit the securing screws. Align the marks on the bi-metal housing and the choke housing as noted during removal, then tighten the securing screws. 11 Where applicable, refit the coolant housing to the bi-metal housing, using new Orings if necessary, and reconnect the coolant hoses and electric choke heater wiring. 12 Further refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points. 13 If the coolant hoses have been disconnected, check the coolant level, as described in Chapter 3. 14 Check and if necessary adjust the fast idle speed, as described in paragraphs 25 to 34, of this Section.

Adjustment

Choke valve gap

15 With the bi-metal housing removed as

described in paragraphs 2 to 4, of this Section, continue as follows. 16 Press the choke operating lever fully clockwise, and retain it in position with a rubber band. 17 Move the throttle lever to the fully open position, and measure the choke valve gap between the lower side of the choke plate and the wall of the primary barrel. Check that the gap is as given in the Specifications. 18 If necessary, adjust the choke valve gap by bending the “adjuster segment (2)” If the gap is too small, enlarge gap “B”, by levering with a screwdriver. If the gap is too large, decrease gap “B” using a pair of pliers (see

illustration). 19 If no further adjustments are to be carried

out, refit the bi-metal housing, as described in paragraphs 10 to 14, of this Section.

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•9

18.11 Carburettor accelerator pump components

1 Cover with operating lever 2 Diaphragm 3 Spring

4 Valve 5 Air passage

18.4 Accelerator pump delivery adjustment: “+” to increase, “-” to reduce

Page 96

Fast idle cam position

20 With the bi-metal housing removed, and

the choke valve gap “B”, correctly set, continue as follows. 21 Open the throttle valve, then close the choke valve using light finger pressure on the choke drive lever (see illustration). Close the throttle valve. 22 Check that the fast idle speed adjustment screw is resting against the stop on the second highest step of the fast idle cam. 23 If adjustment is required, first check that the choke return spring is correctly positioned, then adjust by bending the adjustment lever. 24 Refit the bi-metal housing, as described in paragraphs 10 to 14 of this Section.

Fast idle speed

Note: To carry out the adjustment, an

accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required

25 Check the idle speed and mixture, as described in Section 14. The idle speed must be correct before attempting to check or adjust the fast idle speed. 26 With the engine at normal operating temperature, and a tachometer connected according to the equipment manufacturer’s instructions, continue as follows. 27 Position the fast idle speed adjustment screw on the second highest step of the fast idle cam (see illustration). 28 Start the engine without touching the throttle pedal, and check that the fast idle speed is as specified. If adjustment is required, stop the engine and continue as follows.

29 Remove the tamperproof cap from the fast idle speed adjustment screw, ensure that no local or national laws are being broken by doing so (see illustration). 30 Ensure that the adjustment screw is still resting on the second highest step of the fast idle cam, then start the engine, again without touching the throttle pedal. 31 Turn the adjustment screw using a screwdriver, until the specified fast idle speed is obtained. 32 If the cooling fan cuts in during the adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments, and continue when the cooling fan stops. 33 On completion of adjustment, stop the engine and disconnect the tachometer. 34 Fit a new tamperproof cap to the fast idle speed adjustment screw, where this is required by law.

20 Automatic choke vacuum

pull-down units - removal,

refitting and adjustment

Main diaphragm unit

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A new star clip must be used when refitting the diaphragm unit. Test vacuum units as described in Section 16, paragraph 1.

Removal

1 Proceed as described in Section 17,

paragraphs 1 and 2. 2 Disconnect the diaphragm unit vacuum pipes. 3 Using a pin punch, tap out the roll pin securing the diaphragm unit to the carburettor top cover. 4 Note the position of the bi-metal housing alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if necessary making additional marks for clarity, then remove the three securing screws, and lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing to one side, taking care not to strain the coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring.

4A•10 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

19.18 Choke valve gap adjustment

1 Choke operating lever 2 Adjuster segment B Choke valve gap

19.21 Fast idle cam adjustment

1 Fast idle cam 2 Adjustment lever 3 Choke drive lever 4 Fast idle speed adjustment screw

19.29 Tamperproof cap (arrowed) fast idle speed adjustment screw

19.27 Fast idle speed adjustment

3 Fast idle speed adjustment screw 4 Screw positioned on second highest step of cam

Page 97

5 Remove the three screws securing the choke assembly to the carburettor body. Allow the choke assembly to drop down, but do not disconnect the choke linkage. 6 Remove the star clip that secures the diaphragm unit to the carburettor top cover, and withdraw the diaphragm unit.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a

new star clip to secure the diaphragm unit to the carburettor top cover. Before refitting the air box to the top of the carburettor, check and if necessary adjust the choke pull-down, as follows.

Vacuum pull-down

Adjustment

8 With the air cleaner or air box removed from

the top of the carburettor, as described in Section 17, paragraph 2, continue as follows. 9 Note the position of the bi-metal housing alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if necessary making additional marks for clarity, then remove the three securing screws, and lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing to one side, taking care not to strain the coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring. 10 Position the fast idle speed adjustment screw on the highest step of the fast idle cam, and check that the choke valve is closed. 11 Move the pull-down arm towards the diaphragm unit by pushing on the adjustment screw until resistance is felt. Hold the arm in this position. 12 Using a drill shank of appropriate diameter, or a similar item, measure the clearance between the lower side of the choke plate and the wall of the primary barrel (see illustrations). Check that the clearance is as given for the “small” choke pull-down gap in the Specifications. 13 If adjustment is necessary, turn the adjustment screw in the appropriate direction, using an Allen key, until the clearance is correct.

14 Now push the pull-down arm towards the diaphragm unit as far as its stop, and hold the arm in this position. 15 As before measure the clearance between the lower side of the choke plate and the wall of the primary barrel. Check that the clearance is as given for the “large” choke pull-down gap in the Specifications. 16 If adjustment is necessary, turn the adjustment screw in the appropriate direction until the clearance is correct. 17 Connect the bi-metal spring to the choke lever, position the bi-metal housing on the choke housing and loosely fit the securing screws. Align the marks on the bi-metal housing and the choke housing as noted during removal, then tighten the securing screws. 18 Refit the air box to the top of the carburettor on completion.

Secondary pull-down solenoid

Removal

19 This unit operates in conjunction with the

main diaphragm unit. 20 To remove the solenoid unit, first continue as described in Section 17, paragraphs 1 and

2. 21 Disconnect the diaphragm unit vacuum pipe.

22 Disconnect the wiring plug, then unscrew the securing screw, and withdraw the solenoid unit and its mounting bracket from the carburettor. Note that the securing screw also secures the wiring plug earth lead (see

illustration).

Refitting

23 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but

ensure that the wiring plug earth lead is in place under the solenoid bracket securing screw.

21 Carburettor filter - removal

and refitting

Removal

1 A small tubular filter gauze is fitted into the carburettor top cover’s fuel inlet union to remove any particles of dirt from the fuel. 2 To ensure a clean fuel supply and to prevent the risk of misfiring, poor starting or other problems due to a restricted fuel supply, this filter must be cleaned and/or renewed at the interval specified in Chapter 1. 3 To reach the filter, remove the air cleaner or air box, as applicable, then disconnect and plug the hose from the fuel pump or vapour separator to the top cover union. 4 Remove the filter by hooking it out with a small screwdriver, or by snaring it with a long thin screw (3 mm thread size, screwed approximately 5 mm into the filter). 5 If the filter is blocked or heavily fouled, or if it is torn, distorted or damaged in any way, it must be renewed. If it is fit for further use, clean it using a jet of compressed air or by brushing away particles of dirt with an old soft toothbrush. Then flushing it in clean solvent, taking care not to allow any overspray to get into your eyes; if petrol is used, take care to prevent the risk of fire.

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•11

20.12B Checking the vacuum pull-down gap using a twist drill

20.22 Secondary choke pull-down

solenoid securing screw and earth lead

20.12A Choke vacuum pull-down adjustment

1 Adjustment screw 2 Diaphragm unit A Twist drill

Page 98

Refitting

6 On refitting the filter, press it into the union until it catches (see illustration). The remainder of the reassembly procedure is the reverse of removal.

22 Throttle valve dashpot

(automatic models) -

adjustment

1 Remove the air cleaner or air box, refer to Section 3. 2 Ensure that the lever (see illustration) is in the idling position. 3 Slacken the locknut and unscrew the dashpot until a gap of 0.05 mm (0.002 in) exists between the lever and the dashpot tip. Then screw the dashpot downwards 2.5 full turns and tighten the locknut.

4 Refit all removed components.

23 Throttle position sensor

(automatic transmission models) - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor. 3 Either unscrew the two securing screws

and withdraw the sensor from its bracket, or unbolt the bracket.

Refitting

4 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points.

a) Install the sensor when the throttle valve

is fully closed and ensure that the adapter, “1” (see illustration), seats correctly on the throttle valve spindle.

b) Tighten the screws carefully.

24 Idle speed increase valve -

testing

1 Certain models are fitted with an idle speed increase valve that is attached to the side of the carburettor. 2 To test the operation of this valve first remove the air filter and vacuum hose. 3 With the valve’s plug connected, have someone turn the ignition on (but do not start the engine). A mechanical shifting noise should be heard. If not replace the unit. 4 After refitting replace the vacuum hose and air filter.

25 Idle cut-off solenoid (1.8 litre

models) - description and

testing

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Description

1 On 1.8 litre models, the carburettor is fitted with an idle cut-off solenoid. This is an electrically operated valve, which interrupts the idle mixture circuit when the ignition is

switched off, thus preventing the engine from running-on (see illustration). 2 The idle cut-off solenoid is energised all the time that the ignition is switched on. A defective solenoid, or a break in its power supply, will cause the engine to stall or idle roughly, although it will run normally at speed.

Testing

3 If the operation of the solenoid is suspect, first check that battery voltage is present at the solenoid terminal when the ignition is switched on. Use a 12 volt test lamp or similar test device. 4 If no voltage is present, then the fault lies in the wiring to the solenoid. If voltage is present, the solenoid can be tested as follows. 5 With the solenoid unscrewed from the carburettor, connect the body of the solenoid to the negative terminal of a 12 volt battery. When the battery positive terminal is connected to the solenoid centre terminal, there should be an audible click, and the needle at the tip of the solenoid should retract. 6 A defective idle cut-off solenoid must be renewed.

26 Inlet manifold - removal and

refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A new manifold gasket must be used on refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Drain the cooling system, as described in

Chapter 3. 3 Proceed as described in Section 13, paragraphs 2 to 7 inclusive, ignoring the reference to coolant spillage in paragraph 5.

4A•12 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

21.6 Refitting the carburettor fuel filter

23.4 Throttle position sensor - models with automatic transmission

1 Adapter 2 Sensor

22.2 Adjusting the throttle valve dashpot - models with automatic transmission

1 Lever 2 Locknut 3 Dashpot

Page 99

4 Disconnect the coolant hose from the rear of the manifold (see illustration). 5 Where applicable, disconnect the camshaft cover breather hose from the rear of the manifold (see illustration). 6 Unscrew the union and disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the manifold. 7 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models, disconnect the wiring from the temperature gauge sender. 8 Unscrew and remove the top alternator mounting nut and bolt. 9 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models, disconnect and remove the stub hose that connects the crankcase breather tube to the rear of the camshaft housing. 10 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been disconnected. 11 Unscrew the securing nuts, and withdraw the manifold from the cylinder head (see illustration). Note the position of the rear engine lifting bracket, which is secured by one of the manifold nuts, and recover the manifold

gasket. 12 It is possible that some of the manifold studs may be unscrewed from the cylinder head when the manifold securing nuts are unscrewed. In this event, the studs should be screwed back into the cylinder head once the manifold has been removed, using two manifold nuts locked together. 13 If desired, the carburettor can be removed from the manifold, referring to Section 13, if necessary.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points. 15 If the carburettor has been removed from the manifold, refit it, using a new gasket. 16 If the alternator mounting bracket has been unbolted from the manifold, refit it before refitting the manifold, as access to the securing bolt is extremely limited once the manifold is in place. 17 Refit the manifold using a new gasket,

and ensure that the engine lifting bracket is in place under the relevant manifold nut. Tighten the nuts to the specified torque. 18 Ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires are correctly reconnected. 19 Refill the cooling system, as described in Chapter 3. 20 Check the throttle cable free play and adjust if necessary, as described in Section

11. 21 If the carburettor has been disturbed, check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture, as described in Section 14.

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•13

26.5 . . .and the camshaft cover breather hose (arrowed) from the inlet manifold -

1.6 litre model

26.11 Withdrawing the inlet manifold -

1.6 litre model

26.4 Disconnecting the coolant hose . . .

25.1 Carburettor idle cut-off solenoid (arrowed) - 1.8 litre models

Page 100

4A•14

Notes

Opel Vectra 1998 1995 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual