Opel Omega 1994 1999 User Manual

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Service and Repair Manual

Mark Coombs and Spencer Drayton

Models covered

Vauxhall Omega Saloon and Estate models with petrol engines, including special/limited editions 1998 cc, 2498 cc & 2969 cc petrol engines

Does not cover diesel engine or bi-fuel (LPG) models

(3510 - 352)

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1 2 3

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 850960 510 9

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

Tour Aurore - La Défense 2, 18 Place des Reflets, 92975 PARIS LA DEFENSE Cedex France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Contents

LIVING WITH YOUR VAUXHALL OMEGA

Introduction Page 0•4 Safety First! Page 0•5

Roadside Repairs

Introduction Page 0•6 If your car won’t start Page 0•6 Jump starting Page 0•7 Wheel changing Page 0•8 Identifying leaks Page 0•9 Towing Page 0•9

Weekly Checks

Introduction Page 0•10 Underbonnet check points Page 0•10 Engine oil level Page 0•11 Coolant level Page 0•11 Brake (and clutch) fluid level Page 0•12 Power steering fluid level Page 0•12 Battery Page 0•13 Electrical systems Page 0•13 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14 Tyre tread wear patterns Page 0•14 Washer fluid level Page 0•15 Wiper blades Page 0•15 Lubricants and fluids Page 0•16 Tyre pressures Page 0•17

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing

Servicing specifications Page 1•2 Maintenance schedule Page 1•3 Maintenance procedures Page 1•6

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Contents

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

2.0 litre SOHC engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A•1

2.0 litre DOHC engine in-car repair procedures Page 2B•1

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine in-car repair procedures Page 2C•1 General engine overhaul procedures Page 2D•1 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3•1 Fuel and exhaust systems Page 4A•1 Emission control systems Page 4B•1 Starting and charging systems Page 5A•1 Ignition system Page 5B•1

Transmission

Clutch Page 6•1 Manual transmission Page 7A•1 Automatic transmission Page 7B•1 Final drive, driveshafts and propeller shaft Page 8•1

Brakes and Suspension

Braking system Page 9•1 Suspension and steering Page 10•1

Body equipment

Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1 Body electrical system Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•23

REFERENCE

Dimensions and weights Page REF•1 Conversion Factors Page REF•2 Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Page REF•3 General Repair Procedures Page REF•4 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF•5 Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system precaution Page REF•5 Tools and working facilities Page REF•6 MOT Test Checks Page REF•8 Fault Finding Page REF•12 Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF•20

Index Page REF•24

0•4 Introduction

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

The Vauxhall Omega was introduced into the UK in April of 1994 as a replacement for the Vauxhall Carlton and Senator. At its launch, the Omega was available in both Saloon and Estate body styles with a choice of either 2.0 litre (1998 cc) or a 2.5 litre (2498 cc) petrol engine both available with either a 5-speed manual transmission unit or a 4speed automatic transmission unit. Shortly afterwards a 3.0 (2968 cc) litre petrol engine was also introduced. A 2.5 litre Diesel engine (not covered in this manual) was also available. The petrol engines are all well-proven units which are used in many other Vauxhall vehicles; the engine is mounted at the front of vehicle with the transmission mounted on its rear.

Two versions of the four-cylinder 2.0 litre engine were used; low specification vehicles were fitted with a single overhead camshaft (SOHC) 8-valve engine were as all other vehicles were fitted with the

double overhead camshaft (DOHC) 16-valve engine often referred to as the ECOTEC engine. The 2.5 and 3.0 litre engines are both V6, double overhead camshaft (DOHC) units which are also often referred as ECOTEC engines.

All models have fully-independent front and rear suspension and are

equipped with front and rear disc brakes.

A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within the range to suit most tastes, including central locking, electric windows and an electric sunroof. An air conditioning system was available as an option on certain models.

Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, the vehicle should prove reliable and very economical. The engine compartment is well-designed, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible.

Vauxhall Omega 2.0 16V Select

Vauxhall Omega Estate CD

Your Vauxhall Omega manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

References to the ‘left’ and ‘right’ are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat, facing forwards.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Certain illustrations are the copyright of Vauxhall Motors Limited, and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

The Vauxhall Omega Team

Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included:

Authors Marc Coombs

Spencer Drayton Sub-editor Ian Barnes Editor & Page Make-up Steve Churchill Workshop manager Paul Buckland Photo Scans Steve Tanswell

John Martin Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing Wiring diagrams Matthew Marke

We hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s reliability and preserve its resale value.

Safety first! 0•5

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 Roadside repairs

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals

are clean and tight.

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank? M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads.

Check the condition and security of the battery connections

Check that the spark plug HT leads are securely connected by pushing them onto the plugs (where accessible)

Check that the spark plug HT leads are securely connected by pushing them onto the DIS module (where accessible)

Check that the engine management system wiring connectors are securely connected

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Roadside repairs 0•7

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are

three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

1 2 3

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of

connection. Turn off the lights etc.

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Take note of any special precautions

printed on the battery case.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting

0•8 Roadside repairs

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Wheel changing

Some of the details shown here will vary according to model.

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Preparation

M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so.

M Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.

M Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

M If you have one, use a warning triangle to

alert other drivers of your presence.

M Apply the handbrake and engage first or

reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission.

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

one being removed – a couple of large stones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of

wood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

On Saloon models unclip the luggage compartment left-hand trim panel then release the retaining strap and remove

the spare wheel . . .

On Estate models lift up the luggage compartment floor panel and remove the

tools from the centre of the spare wheel. Undo the retaining nut and remove the spare wheel . . .

. . . The tools and jack are stored in the smaller compartment on the right-hand

side of the luggage compartment. Remove the cover (where fitted) then unscrew the bolt and remove the jack and wheelbrace.

1 2 3

. . . then unscrew the retaining bolt and remove the jack from behind the wheel.

On models with steel wheels, use the

removal tool supplied to pull off the wheel

trim and on models with alloy wheels, use the tool supplied to unscrew the anti-theft bolt and remove the hub cap. Slacken each wheel bolt by half a turn.

Unclip the access cover from the sill trim panel then make sure the jack is located

on firm ground and engage the jack head correctly with the lifting point on the sill. Make sure that the lug on the jack head is correctly located in the sill seam cutout and the base of the jack is directly underneath the sill seam.

4 5

Raise the jack until the wheel is raised clear of the ground. Unscrew the wheel

bolts and remove the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and screw on the bolts. Lightly tighten the bolts with the wheelbrace then lower the vehicle to the ground.

Securely tighten the wheel bolts in a diagonal sequence then refit the hub

cap/wheel trim (as applicable). Note that the wheel bolts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque at the earliest possible opportunity.

7 8

Finally...

M Remove the wheel chocks. M Stow the punctured wheel, jack and tools

in the correct locations in the car.

Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure.

M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired

as soon as possible.

Roadside repairs 0•9

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distictively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home – or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points:

M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window. M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. M Both front and rear towing eyes are provided. They are located behind the access covers on the front and rear bumper. M Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. M Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. M On models with power steering, greater-

than-usual steering effort will also be required. M The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. M Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions. M On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result.

Towing

0•10 Weekly checks

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example;

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.

Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of

these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.

M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Introduction

2.0 litre DOHC engine

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion tank

Brake (and clutch) fluid reservoir

Battery

Power steering fluid reservoir

Underbonnet check points

2.5 and

3.0 litre engine

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion tank

Brake (and clutch) fluid reservoir

Battery

Power steering fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Weekly checks 0•11

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure that your car is on level ground. 4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See “Lubricants and fluids” on page 0•16).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil

(see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick!

The dipstick is located on the left-hand side of the engine (see Underbonnet check points on page 0•10 for exact

location). Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,

then withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the

upper (MAX) mark and lower (MIN) mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Rotate the cap through a quarter-turn anti-

clockwise and withdraw it. Top-up the level. A funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Do not overfill.

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

Coolant level

The coolant level varies with the temperature of the engine. When the

engine is cold, the coolant level should be slightly above the KALT/COLD mark on the side of the tank. When the engine is hot, the level will rise.

If topping up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold. Slowly unscrew the

expansion tank cap, to release any pressure present in the cooling system, and remove it.

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank until the coolant level is slightly above the KALT/COLD mark

then securely refit the expansion tank cap.

123

0•12 Weekly checks

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Brake and clutch* fluid level

*On manual transmission models the brake fluid reservoir also supplies fluid to the clutch master cylinder.

Warning: l Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. l Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Safety First!

l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

• Make sure that your car is on level ground.

• The fluid level in the

reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the “MIN” mark.

The upper (MAX) and lower (MIN) fluid level markings are on the side of the

reservoir, which is located in the righthand rear corner of the engine compartment. The fluid level must always be kept in between these two marks.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic

system.

Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it onto the surrounding components. Use

only the specified fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After topping-up to the correct level, securely refit the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid.

Power steering fluid level

Before you start:

4 Park the vehicle on level ground. 4 Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. 4 The engine should be turned off.

Safety First!

l The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

The power steering fluid reservoir is located on the left-hand side of the

engine compartment. Wipe clean the reservoir before unscrewing and removing the cap.

Wipe clean the filler cap dipstick then refit the filler cap and remove it again. Note the fluid level on the dipstick.

When the engine is cold the fluid level should be up to the lower mark up the

dipstick and when the engine is at operating temperature it should be at the upper mark. Top up the fluid level using the specified type of fluid (do not overfill) then securely refit the filler cap.

Weekly checks 0•13

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in "Safety first" at the start of this manual.

4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. 4 Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

The battery is located at the front lefthand corner of the engine compartment.

If necessary, unclip the fusible link housing (where fitted) from side of the relay box then open up the insulating cover to gain access to the battery.

The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such

as a cracked case or cover. Check the battery lead clamps for tightness to ensure good electrical connections and check the leads for signs of damage.

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the

battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores sell a tool for cleaning the battery post . . .

. . . as well as the battery cable clamps

Electrical systems

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

4 Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall or

garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

If a single indicator light, stop-light or headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb

has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stop lights have failed, it is possible that the switch has failed (see Chapter 12, Section 4).

If more than one indicator light or tail light has failed it is likely that either a fuse has

blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12). Most fuses are located behind in the fusebox, behind the cover on the driver’s side of the facia; depress the locking button and remove the cover to gain access. Additional fuses can be found in the engine compartment relay box and fusible link housing.

To replace a blown fuse, remove it, where applicable, using the plastic tool

provided. Fit a new fuse of the same rating, available from car accessory shops. It is important that you find the reason that the fuse blew (see Electrical fault finding in Chapter 12).

0•14 Weekly checks

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Tyre condition and pressure

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result. Tyre pressures are shown on page 0•17.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Weekly checks 0•15

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Wiper blades

Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of

deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually.

To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the screen until it

locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, press the locking tab with your fingers and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end.

Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will

freeze during cold weather. On no account use

coolant antifreeze in the washer system this could discolour or damage paintwork.

Washer fluid level

When topping-up the reservoir, a

screenwash additive should be added in

the quantities recommended on the bottle.

The reservoir for the windscreen/ tailgate/headlamps (as applicable) is

located at the front of vehicle. The fluid level in the reservoir can be checked using the dipstick attached to the filler cap.

0•16 Lubricants and fluids

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Lubricants and fluids

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 to 15W/50 to API

SG/CD or SH/CD (Duckhams QXR Premium Petrol Engine Oil or Duckhams Hypergrade Petrol Engine Oil)

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based antifreeze

(Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Coolant)

Manual transmission:

Early (pre 1999) vehicles:

Up to number JP3097A01361659* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall transmission oil 19 40 704

From number JP3097A01361659* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall transmission oil 19 40 764

Later (1999 onwards) vehicles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall transmission oil 19 40 768

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall transmission fluid 19 40 763

(Duckhams ATF Autotrans III)

Final drive unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 8 specifications

Braking and clutch system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid DOT 4

(Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid)

Power steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall transmission fluid 19 40 700

(Duckhams ATF Autotrans III)

*The identification number is stamped on the transmission housing. Note: There have been three different types of oil used in the transmission by Vauxhall. The different types of oil should never be mixed, and it is essential that the transmission is refilled either with the same type of oil as that drained, or the latest oil used in production from 1999 model year. If it is not known what type of oil has been drained, the transmission unit should be flushed before filling with the latest specification oil. To do this, refer to Chapter 7A, Section 2.

Engines need oil, not only to lubricate moving parts and minimise wear, but also to maximise power output and to improve fuel economy. By introducing a simplified and improved range of engine oils, Duckhams has taken away the confusion and made it easier for you to choose the right oil for your engine.

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS

• Beating friction

Without oil, the moving surfaces inside your engine will rub together, heat up and melt, quickly causing the engine to seize. Engine oil creates a film which separates these moving parts, preventing wear and heat build-up.

• Cooling hot-spots

Temperatures inside the engine can exceed 1000º C. The engine oil circulates and acts as a coolant, transferring heat from the hot-spots to the sump.

• Cleaning the engine internally

Good quality engine oils clean the inside of your engine, collecting and dispersing combustion deposits and controlling them until they are trapped by the oil filter or flushed out at oil change.

OIL CARE - FOLLOW THE CODE

To handle and dispose of used engine oil safely, always:

• Avoid skin contact with used engine oil. Repeated or prolonged contact can be harmful.

• Dispose of used oil and empty packs in a responsible manner in an authorised disposal site. Call 0800 663366 to find the one nearest to you. Never tip oil down drains or onto the ground.

Choosing your engine oil

DUCKHAMS ENGINE OILS

For the driver who demands a premium quality oil for complete reassurance, we recommend synthetic formula Duckhams QXR Premium Engine Oils. For the driver who requires a straightforward quality engine oil, we recommend Duckhams Hypergrade Engine Oils.

For further information and advice, call the Duckhams UK Helpline on 0800 212988.

Tyre pressures 0•17

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Tyre pressures

Note: Pressures apply to original-equipment tyres only and may vary if any other make or type of tyre is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or

supplier for correct pressures if necessary.

Note: Tyre pressures must always be checked with the tyres cold to ensure accuracy.

Saloon models

2.0 litre engine Front Rear

Up to 3 passengers (including driver) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.5 psi (2.0 bar) 28.5 psi (2.0 bar)

Fully loaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 psi (2.5 bar) 42 psi (2.9 bar)

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine

Up to 3 passengers (including driver) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.5 psi (2.2 bar) 31.5 psi (2.2 bar)

Fully loaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 psi (2.5 bar) 42 psi (2.9 bar)

Estate models

2.0 litre engine

Up to 3 passengers (including driver) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.5 psi (2.0 bar) 31.5 psi (2.2 bar)

4 or 5 passengers (including driver) and 60 kg of luggage . . . . 33.0 psi (2.3 bar) 45.0 psi (3.1 bar)

Fully loaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.0 psi (2.6 bar) 45.0 psi (3.1 bar)

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine

195/65 R 15 tyres:

Up to 3 passengers (including driver) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.5 psi (2.2 bar) 34.0 psi (2.3 bar)

4 or 5 passengers (including driver) and 60 kg of luggage . . . 34.0 psi (2.3 bar) 46.0 psi (3.2 bar)

Fully loaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.0 psi (2.7 bar) 46.0 psi (3.2 bar)

205/65 R 15 and 225/55 R 15 tyres:

Up to 3 passengers (including driver) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.5 psi (2.0 bar) 31.5 psi (2.2 bar)

4 or 5 passengers (including driver) and 60 kg of luggage . . . 33.0 psi (2.3 bar) 45.0 psi (3.1 bar)

Fully loaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.0 psi (2.6 bar) 45.0 psi (3.1 bar)

1•1

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air filter element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Automatic transmission fluid - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Automatic transmission fluid level - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Auxiliary drivebelt - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Bodywork/underbody corrosion protection - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Brake fluid - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Coolant - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Driveshaft gaiter condition - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Exhaust system - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Front and rear disc brakes - pad wear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Fuel filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Handbrake - shoe condition check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Handbrake operation - check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Headlight and auxiliary driving light beam alignment - check . . . . . . 12

Lock and hinge lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Monitoring, lighting and signalling equipment - check . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Pollen filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Regular maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Remote control keyfob battery - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Spark plugs - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Suspension and steering condition and operation - check . . . . . . . . 10

Timing belt - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Underbonnet/underbody hose and fluid leak - check . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Wheel alignment - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Wheel bolt torque - check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Lubricants and fluids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to end of Weekly checks on page 0•16

Capacities

Engine oil

2.0 litre engine:

SOHC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres

DOHC engine:

Engines with a one-piece sump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres

Engines with a two-piece sump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 litres

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.75 litres

Difference between MIN and MAX on dipstick (all engines) . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 litre

Cooling system Manual transmission Automatic transmission

2.0 litre engine:

SOHC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 litres 8.8 litres

DOHC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.8 litres 8.6 litres

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.7 litres 9.5 litres

Transmission

Manual transmission (approximate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 litres

Automatic transmission (approximate):

From dry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.4 litres

After removing main sump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.4 litres

Final drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 litre*

*On models with limited-slip differential, observe the notes in Chapter 8 regarding the correct mixture of oil and additive to be used when refilling the final drive unit.

Washer fluid reservoir

Without headlight washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 litres

With headlight washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.4 litres

Fuel tank

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 litres

Engine

Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion G102

Cooling system

Antifreeze mixture:

50% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -37ºC

55% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -45ºC

Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.

Fuel system

Air filter element:

2.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U595

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U601

Fuel filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L225

Ignition system

Spark plugs (gap not adjustable - see text) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC10DMC

Brakes

Friction material minimum thickness:

Front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm including backing plate

Rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 mm including backing plate

Handbrake shoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm excluding backing plate

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Automatic transmission fluid level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 24

Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Sump drain plug:

2.0 litre SOHC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

2.0 litre DOHC engine:

Hex-head bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Torx-head bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine:

Hex-head bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Torx-head bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

1•2 Servicing specifications

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to

perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,

more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, and/or still within its warranty period, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

Maintenance schedule 1•3

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months, whichever comes first

mm Engine oil and filter - renewal (Section 3)

Note: Vauxhall recommend that the engine oil and filter are changed every 10 000 miles or 12 months. However, oil and filter changes are good for the engine and we recommend that the oil and filter are renewed more frequently, especially if the vehicle is used on a lot of short journeys.

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or 4 years, whichever comes first

Carry out all the operations listed for the 15,000 km/12 month and the 30,000 km/2 year intervals, plus the following additional operations:

mm Spark plugs - renewal (Section 22)* mm Fuel filter - renewal (Section 23) mm Timing belt - renewal (Section 24)**

* Note: On pre-1999 model year vehicles, renew the spark plugs every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) regardless of the time elapsed.

**Note: Since the introduction of the Omega in 1994, Vauxhall have gradually increased the specified interval for timing belt renewal as follows:

1994 model year vehicle,

36 000 miles or 4 years, whichever comes first.

1995 and 1996 model year vehicles,

40 000 miles or 4 years, whichever comes first.

1997 model year vehicles onwards,

80 000 miles or 8 years, whichever comes first.

However, if the vehicle is used mainly for short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving, or if the vehicle’s history is unknown, it is recommended that the earlier (1994 model year) recommendation is adhered to. The actual belt renewal interval is very much up to the individual owner but, bearing in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks in use, we recommend you err on the side of caution.

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months, whichever comes first

mm Monitoring, lighting and signalling equipment -

check (Section 4)

mm Front and rear brakes - pad and disc wear check

(Section 5)

mm Auxiliary drivebelt condition and tension - check

and adjust (Section 6)*

mm Underbonnet/underbody hose and fluid leak -

check (Section 7)*

mm Bodywork/underbody corrosion protection - check

(Section 8)*

mm Handbrake operation - check and adjustment

(Section 9)*

mm Suspension and steering condition and operation -

check (Section 10)*

mm Wheel bolt torque - check and adjustment

(Section 11)

mm Headlight and auxiliary driving light beam

alignment - check (Section 12)*

mm Road test (Section 13) mm Wheel alignment - check (Section 14) mm Exhaust system - check (Section 15)*

* Note: On vehicles covering a high mileage (more than 20 000

miles/30 000 km annually) carry out the items marked with an asterisk at the 12 month interval; carry out the items not marked with an asterisk every 10 000 miles/15 000 km, regardless of elapsed time.

Every 70 000 miles (105 000 km) or 7 years whichever comes first

mm Automatic transmission fluid - renewal (Section 25)*

Note: This operation applies only to vehicles covering a high mileage

(more than 20 000 miles/30 000 km annually)

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 2 years, whichever comes first

Carry out all the operations listed for the 15,000 km/12 month interval, plus the following additional operations:

mm Air filter element - renewal (Section 16) mm Pollen filter - renewal (Section 17) mm Lock and hinge lubrication (Section 18) mm Automatic transmission fluid level check (Section 19) mm Handbrake - shoe condition check (Section 20) mm Driveshaft gaiter condition - check (Section 21)

Every 2 years, regardless of mileage

mm Brake fluid - renewal (Section 26) mm Remote control keyfob battery - renewal

(Section 27)

mm Coolant - renewal (Section 28)

1•4 Maintenance - component location

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Underbonnet view of a 2.0 litre DOHC engine model

1 Engine oil filler cap 2 Air cleaner 3 Front suspension strut

upper mounting

4 Brake (and clutch) fluid

reservoir

5 Relay box 6 Cooling system expansion

tank

7 Battery 8 Fusible link housing 9 Power steering pump 10 Engine oil level dipstick 11 Oil filter 12 Alternator 13 Airflow meter 14 Throttle housing 15 Power steering fluid

reservoir

Underbonnet view of a 2.5 litre engine model (3.0 litre engine similar)

1 Engine oil filler cap 2 Power steering fluid

reservoir

3 Front suspension strut

upper mounting

4 Relay box 5 Fusible link housing 6 Engine oil level dipstick 7 Battery 8 Multi-ram air intake system

pre-volume chamber

9 Airflow meter 10 Air cleaner 11 Cooling system expansion

tank

12 Brake (and clutch) fluid

reservoir

13 Exhaust gas recirculation

(EGR) valve

14 Inlet manifold 15 Idle speed adjuster valve

Maintenance - component location 1•5

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Front underbody view (2.0 litre DOHC engine shown - others similar)

1 Exhaust front downpipe 2 Oil filter 3 Engine oil drain plug 4 Air conditioning system

compressor

5 Front suspension lower

arm

6 Steering outer tie rod 7 Steering drop arm 8 Steering centre tie rod 9 Steering idler 10 Steering outer tie rod 11 Manual transmission 12 Oxygen sensor 13 Transmission unit rear

mounting crossmember

Rear underbody view (2.0 litre DOHC engine shown - others similar)

1 Exhaust tailpipe 2 Fuel tank 3 Final drive unit 4 Fuel filter 5 Rear shock absorber 6 Driveshaft 7 Rear suspension tie rod 8 Rear suspension lower

arm

9 Propeller shaft 10 Handbrake cable

1 General information

1 This Chapter is designed to help the home

mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. 2 The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components. 3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results. 4 As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwiseunrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components. 5 The first step in this maintenance pro-

gramme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

2 Regular maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the

routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C, as applicable) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a

compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (refer

to Weekly checks).

b) Check all the engine-related fluids (refer

to Weekly checks).

c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt (Section 6). d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 22). e) Check the condition of the air filter, and

renew if necessary (Section 16). f) Renew the fuel filter (Section 23). g) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leak.

5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations

All items listed under Primary operations, plus the following:

a) Check the charging system (refer to

Chapter 5A). b) Check the ignition system (refer to

Chapter 5B). c) Check the fuel system (refer to Chapter 4A).

3 Engine oil and filter -

renewal

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials.

Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain more easily, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. 3 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). Undo the retaining screws and remove the undercover from beneath the engine unit.

4 Remove the oil filler cap. 5 Using a spanner, or preferably a suitable

socket and bar, slacken the drain plug about half a turn (see illustration). Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely (see Haynes

Hint). 6 Allow some time for the oil to drain, noting

that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 7 After all the oil has drained, wipe the drain plug and the sealing washer with a clean rag.

Examine the condition of the sealing washer, and renew it if it shows signs of scoring or other damage which may prevent an oil-tight seal. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug complete with the washer and tighten it to the specified torque. 8 Move the container into position under the oil filter. On 2.0 litre engines the filter is located on the front end of the engine, where

1•6 Maintenance procedures

3.5 Removing the sump drain plug

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

Every 5000 miles or 6 months

As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it quickly away so that the stream of oil running out of the sump goes into the container and not over your arm

it is screwed onto the oil pump housing, and on 2.5 and 3.0 litre engines it is screwed onto the left-hand side of the cylinder block (see

illustration). 9 Use an oil filter removal tool to slacken the

filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way. Empty the oil from the old filter into the container. 10 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. 11 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw the filter into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools (see illustrations). If a genuine filter is being fitted and the special oil filter

tool (Tool no. KM-726A - a socket which fits over the end of the filter) is available, tighten the filter to the specified torque. 12 Refit the undercover, tightening its retaining screws securely, then remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle before lowering the vehicle to the ground. 13 Fill the engine through the filler hole, using the correct grade and type of oil (refer to Weekly Checks for details of topping-up). Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to drain into the sump. Continue to add oil, a small quantity at a time, until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately a further 1.0 litre will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick.

14 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the low oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the new oil filter and the engine oil galleries before the pressure builds up. 15 Stop the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 16 Dispose of the used engine oil safely with reference to General repair procedures.

Every 5000 miles 1•7

3.8 Oil filter location - 2.0 litre engine 3.11a Lubricate the sealing ring of the new filter with a smear of engine oil . . .

3.11b . . . then screw the filter on by hand only (2.5 litre engine shown)

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

4 Monitoring, lighting and

signalling equipment -

check

1 Turn the ignition switch to the second position and check that the instrument panel CHECK lamp lights up and then extinguishes after 4 approximately seconds. If the lamp fails to extinguish, observe the fault description message(s) displayed and rectify the cause. 2 Start the engine and check that all tell-tale system operation/fault lamps extinguish. Note that some lamps (such as the automatic transmission sport programme, or traction control system lamps) may remain lit, depending on the driving mode selected; consult your drivers handbook for the exact meaning of each lamp. 3 Release handbrake, depress the brake pedal and check that the brake lights fault display extinguishes. 4 Switch on all interior and exterior lights in turn and check their operation. Pay particular attention to the tail lamps, fog lamps, brake lamps, main and dipped beam headlamps, position lamps and front and rear direction indicators. Renew any blown bulbs with reference to Chapter 12.

5 Finally, check the operation of the horn.

5 Front and rear brakes -

pad and disc wear check

Front brakes

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, select first gear or P, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). Remove the front roadwheels. 2 For a quick check, the pad thickness can

be carried out via the inspection hole on the front surface of each caliper (see illustration). Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of each pad lining, including the backing plate. This must not be less than that indicated in the Specifications. 3 The view through the caliper inspection hole gives only a rough indication of the state of the brake pads. For a comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Chapter 9 contains a detailed description of how the brake discs should be checked for wear and/or damage. 4 If any pad’s friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed as an axle set; for example - if the pads in the left hand caliper are found to be worn, those in the right hand caliper must also be renewed, regardless of their condition. Refer to Chapter 9 for details. 5 On completion, refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Rear brakes

6 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). Remove the rear roadwheels.

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

5.2 The brake pad wear can be assessed by observing the thickness of the friction

material, visible through the inspection

aperture at the front of the brake caliper

7 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 4

inclusive, noting that the inspection aperture is at the rear of the caliper. 8 On completion, refit the rear roadwheels and lower the vehicle to the ground.

6 Auxiliary drivebelt -

check and renewal

Check

1 Although the drivebelt tension is automatically adjusted by the spring-loaded tensioner, the belt itself should still be regularly checked for damage or deterioration. 2 With the engine stopped, inspect the full length of the drivebelt for cracks and separation of the belt plies. It will be necessary to turn the engine (using a spanner or socket and bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt) in order to move the belt from the pulleys so that the belt can be inspected thoroughly. Twist the belt between the pulleys so that both sides can be viewed. Also check for fraying, and glazing which gives the belt a

shiny appearance. Check the pulleys for nicks, cracks, distortion and corrosion. 3 Check the position of the drivebelt tensioner assembly arm in relation to the backplate. On 2.0 litre engines the arm indicator should be in between the stops on the backplate and should be free to move. On

2.5 and 3.0 litre engines the stop on the tensioner mounting plate should be positioned between the lugs on the arm and the arm should be free to move (see

illustrations). 4 If the belt shows signs of wear or damage,

or the tensioner arm is against the stop, the belt must be renewed.

Renewal

2.0 litre engine

5 Prior to removal make a note of the correct

routing of the belt around the various pulleys. If the belt is to be reused, also mark the direction of rotation on the belt to ensure the belt is refitted the same way around. 6 Using a suitable spanner or socket fitted to the tensioner pulley centre bolt, lever the tensioner away from the belt until there is sufficient slack to enable the belt to be slipped off from the pulleys. Carefully release the tensioner pulley until it is against its stop then remove the belt from the vehicle. If necessary, the tensioner can be locked in the released position by aligning the arm hole with the hole in the backplate and inserting a suitable tool/pin. 7 Manoeuvre the belt into position, routing it correctly around the pulleys; if the original belt is being fitted use the marks made prior to removal to ensure it is fitted the correct way around. 8 Lever the tensioner roller back against is spring, and seat the belt on the pulleys. Ensure the belt is centrally located on all pulleys then slowly release the tensioner

pulley until the belt is correctly tensioned. Do not allow the tensioner to spring back and stress the belt. 9 Check the tensioner arm is correctly positioned in relation to the backplate (see paragraph 3).

2.5 and 3.0 litre engine

10 Remove the multi-ram air intake system

pre-volume chamber and the secondary air injection system front connecting pipe as described in the relevant Parts of Chapter 4. 11 Prior to removal make a note of the correct routing of the belt around the various pulleys. If the belt is to be reused, also mark the direction of rotation on the belt to ensure the belt is refitted the same way around. 12 Using a suitable spanner or socket fitted to the tensioner pulley centre bolt, lever the tensioner away from the belt until there is sufficient slack to enable the belt to be slipped off from the pulleys (see illustration). Carefully release the tensioner pulley until it is against its stop then remove the belt from the vehicle. 13 Manoeuvre the belt into position, routing it correctly around the pulleys; if the original belt is being fitted use the marks made prior to removal to ensure it is fitted the correct way around. 14 Lever the tensioner roller back against is spring, and seat the belt on the pulleys. Ensure the belt is centrally located on all pulleys then slowly release the tensioner pulley until the belt is correctly tensioned. Do not allow the tensioner to spring back and stress the belt. 15 Check the tensioner arm is correctly positioned in relation to the backplate (see paragraph 3) then refit the secondary air injection system connecting pipe and the multi-ram air intake system pre-volume chamber as described in the relevant part of Chapter 4.

1•8 Every 10 000 miles

6.12 Lever the tensioner away from the

belt then slip the belt off from its pulleys

(2.5 litre engine shown)

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6.3a On 2.0 litre engines check that the drivebelt tensioner arm

indicator (2) is correctly positioned between the stops (1 and 3) on

the backplate

6.3b On 2.5 and 3.0 litre engines ensure the stop (1) on the

drivebelt tensioner mounting plate is in between the lugs (2) on

the arm

7 Underbonnet/underbody

hose and fluid leak -

check

Cooling system

Warning: Refer to the safety information given in Safety First and Chapter 3 before disturbing

any of the cooling system components.

1 Carefully check the radiator and heater coolant hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or which shows signs of deterioration. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips that have been over-tightened can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks (see illustration). 2 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses, joint faces, etc) for leaks. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3.

Fuel system

Warning: Refer to the safety information given in Safety First and Chapter 4A before disturbing

any of the fuel system components.

3 Petrol leaks can be difficult to pinpoint, unless the leakage is significant and hence easily visible. Fuel tends to evaporate quickly once it comes into contact with air, especially in a hot engine bay. Small drips can disappear before you get a chance to identify the point of leakage. If you suspect that there is a fuel leak from the area of the engine bay, leave the vehicle overnight then start the engine from cold, with the bonnet open. Metal components tend to shrink when they are cold, and rubber seals and hoses tend to harden, so any leaks will be more apparent whilst the engine is warming up from a cold start. 4 Check all fuel lines at their connections to the fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter (petrol models), Examine each rubber fuel hose along its length for splits or cracks. Check for leakage from the crimped joints between rubber and metal fuel lines. Examine the unions between the metal fuel lines and the fuel filter housing. Also check the area around the fuel injectors for signs of O-ring leakage. 5 To identify fuel leaks between the fuel tank and the engine bay, the vehicle should raised and securely supported on axle stands.

Inspect the petrol tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 6 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, kinked lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or kinked, making tank filling difficult. Follow the fuel supply and return lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way for signs of damage or corrosion. Renew damaged sections as necessary.

Engine oil

7 Inspect the area around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected - what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak caused by gasket failure. Engine oil seeping from the base of the timing belt cover or the transmission bellhousing may be an indication of crankshaft or transmission input shaft oil seal failure. Should a leak be found, renew the failed gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this manual.

Automatic transmission fluid

8 Check the hoses leading to the transmission fluid cooler for leakage. Look for deterioration caused by corrosion and damage from grounding, or debris thrown up from the road surface. Automatic transmission fluid is a thin oil and is usually red in colour. Check the area around the propeller shaft seal at the rear of the transmission for signs of fluid leakage. Should a leak be found, check the fluid level as described in Section 19 then rectify the cause of leakage as soon as possible.

Power assisted steering (PAS) fluid

9 Examine the hose running between the fluid reservoir and the power steering pump, and the return hose running from the steering rack to the fluid reservoir. Also examine the high pressure supply hose between the pump and the steering rack. 10 Check the condition of each hose carefully. Look for deterioration caused by corrosion and damage from grounding, or debris thrown up from the road surface. 11 Pay particular attention to crimped unions, and the area surrounding the hoses that are secured with adjustable worm drive clips. Like automatic transmission fluid, PAS fluid is a thin oil, and is usually red or light brown in colour.

Every 10 000 miles 1•9

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

7.1 Possible causes of coolant hose failure

A leak in the cooling system will usually manifest itself as white or rust-coloured, crusty deposits on the area

adjacent to the leak

Air conditioning refrigerant

Warning: Refer to the safety information given in Safety First

and Chapter 3, regarding the dangers of disturbing any of the air conditioning system components.

12 The air conditioning system is filled with a liquid refrigerant, which is retained under high pressure. If the air conditioning system is opened and depressurised without the aid of specialised equipment, the refrigerant will immediately turn into gas and escape into the atmosphere. If the liquid comes into contact with your skin, it can cause severe frostbite. In addition, the refrigerant contains substances which are environmentally damaging; for this reason, it should not be allowed to escape into the atmosphere in an uncontrolled fashion. 13 Any suspected air conditioning system leaks should be immediately referred to a Vauxhall dealer or air conditioning specialist. Leakage will be shown up as a steady drop in the level of refrigerant in the system. 14 Note that water may drip from the condenser drain pipe, underneath the car, immediately after the air conditioning system has been in use. This is normal, and should not be cause for concern.

Brake fluid

Warning: Refer to the safety

information given in Safety First

and Chapter 9, regarding the dangers of handling brake fluid.

15 Examine the area surrounding the brake pipe unions at the master cylinder for signs of leakage. Check the area around the base of fluid reservoir, for signs of leakage caused by seal failure. Also examine the brake pipe unions at the ABS hydraulic unit. 16 If fluid loss is evident, but the leak cannot be pinpointed in the engine bay, the brake calipers and underbody brake lines should be carefully checked with the vehicle raised and supported on axle stands (see illustration). Leakage of fluid from the braking system is a serious fault that must be rectified immediately. 17 Brake/clutch hydraulic fluid is a toxic substance with a watery consistency. New fluid is almost colourless, but it becomes darker with age and use.

Manual transmission fluid

18 Check the area around the propeller shaft seal at the rear of the transmission for signs of fluid leakage. Should a leak be found, check the transmission fluid level as described in Chapter 7A then rectify the cause of leakage as soon as possible.

Final drive unit differential fluid

19 Check the area around the driveshaft and propeller shaft seals, and the flange seal on the rear of the final drive unit for signs of fluid

leakage. Should a leak be found, check the differential fluid level as described in Chapter 8 then rectify the cause of leakage as soon as possible.

Unidentified fluid leaks

20 If there are signs that a fluid of some description is leaking from the vehicle, but you cannot identify the type of fluid or its exact origin, park the vehicle overnight and slide a large piece of card underneath it. Providing that the card is positioned in roughly the right location, even the smallest leak will show up on the card. Not only will this help you to pinpoint the exact location of the leak, it should be easier to identify the fluid from its colour. Bear in mind, though, that the leak may only be occurring when the engine is running!

Vacuum hoses

21 Although the braking system is hydraulically-operated, the brake servo unit amplifies the effort applied at the brake pedal, by making use of the vacuum in the inlet manifold, generated by the engine. Vacuum is ported to the servo by means of a large-bore hose. Any leaks that develop in this hose will reduce the effectiveness of the braking system, and may affect the running of the engine. 22 In addition, a number of the underbonnet components, particularly the emission control components, are driven by vacuum supplied from the inlet manifold via narrow-bore rubber

and plastic hoses. A leak in a vacuum hose means that air is being drawn into the hose (rather than escaping from it) and this makes leakage very difficult to detect. One method is to use an old length of vacuum hose as a kind of stethoscope - hold one end close to (but not in!) your ear and use the other end to probe the area around the suspected leak. When the end of the hose is directly over a vacuum leak, a hissing sound will be heard clearly through the hose. Care must be taken to avoid contacting hot or moving components, as the engine must be running, when testing in this manner. Renew any vacuum hoses that are found to be defective.

8 Bodywork/underbody

corrosion protection -

check

1 This work should be carried out by a Vauxhall/Opel dealer in order to validate the vehicle warranty. The work includes a thorough inspection of the vehicle paintwork and underbody for damage and corrosion

9 Handbrake operation -

check and adjustment

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). Remove the rear roadwheels. 2 Fully release the handbrake lever, then apply it to the third notch. Check that both rear wheels can still rotate by attempting to turn them by hand (ensure that the transmission is in neutral). Release the handbrake lever. 3 Fully apply the handbrake lever, so that the rear wheels are locked, counting how many notches the lever passes through. If the handbrake lever passes through more than seven notches before the rear wheels lock, adjustment is required. 4 If adjustment is necessary, first fully release the handbrake, then pull it up to the third notch. 5 Working underneath the vehicle, unbolt the exhaust system heat shields from the floorpan. Locate the handbrake cable adjustment nut, at the cable compensation bar, above the propeller shaft. Fully slacken the adjustment nut so that there is a small amount of clearance between it and the compensation bar (see illustration). 6 Working on one brake disc at a time, position the hole in the disc over the serrated adjustment nut on the adjuster at the top of the backplate. Using a screwdriver inserted through the hole, turn the nut until the brake disc locks, then turn the nut in opposite direction until the disc is just free (see illustration). Repeat the adjustment on the remaining rear brake.

1•10 Every 10 000 miles

7.16 Inspecting the flexible hose

connection to a front brake caliper

9.5 Handbrake cable adjustment nut (arrowed)

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

7 Check that the handbrake lever is still positioned on the third notch, then working underneath the vehicle, tighten the handbrake cable adjustment nut against the compensation bar, until the handbrake shoes just start to take effect - test for this by turning the brake discs by hand. 8 Refit the rear wheels, then carry out a final check of the handbrake adjustment; the rear wheels should turn freely with the lever applied to the third notch and should be fully locked before passing through the seventh notch. Tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque then lower the car the ground. Check the operation of the handbrake before using the vehicle on the road. 9 After fitting new handbrake shoes, the shoes should be bedded-in by driving a short distance (approximately 300 metres) at low speed with the handbrake lever lightly applied. Check, and if necessary adjust the handbrake again after completing the bedding-in.

10 Suspension and steering

condition and operation -

check

Front suspension and steering check

1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). 2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 Check the power steering fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the outer balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be felt by

placing a hand over the rack-and-pinion rubber gaiter and gripping the track-rod. If the wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt at the inner joint if wear has taken place. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected, as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back-andforth, about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described. In addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and also check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Rear suspension check

8 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). 9 Working as described previously for the front suspension, check the rear hub bearings, the suspension bushes and the strut or shock absorber mountings (as applicable) for wear.

Shock absorber check

10 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the shock absorber is defective internally, and should be renewed.

Note: Shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle.

11 The efficiency of the shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking, the body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the shock absorber is probably suspect. Also examine the shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.

11 Wheel bolt torque -

check and adjustment

Note: As well as being potentially damaging to the vehicle’s roadwheels, over-tightened wheel bolts may cause problems if you have to change a wheel by the side of the road. By ensuring that the wheel bolts are tightened to the correct torque, you could save yourself a lot of time and trouble in an emergency situation.

1 Slacken the front wheel securing bolts slightly, then apply the handbrake firmly, raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). 2 Fully slacken the each of the wheel bolts in turn and clear any dirt of debris from the threads. Re-insert the wheel bolts and tighten them to the specified torque setting using a good quality torque wrench. 3 Repeat the operation at the opposite wheel, then lower the car the ground. 4 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). Repeat the operations described in paragraphs 2 and 3.

12 Headlight and auxiliary

driving light beam alignment

- check

1 Badly adjusted headlights and/or foglights cause poor visibility and can dazzle other road users. Accurate adjustment of the headlight and auxiliary driving light beams is only possible using optical beam-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Vauxhall/Opel dealer or suitably-equipped workshop. 2 For reference, the headlights can be adjusted using the adjuster assemblies fitted to the front upper outer mounting and to the rear inner mounting. The inner screw is for horizontal adjustment and the outer one for

Every 10 000 miles 1•11

9.6 Adjusting the handbrake screws using a screwdriver through the hole in the

disc/hub flange

10.4 To check for play in the wheel bearing, grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and

6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

vertical adjustment. When adjusting the headlight aim, ensure that the facia -mounted range adjustment switch is set to position 0 (see paragraph 3). 3 All models have an electric headlight beam adjustment range system, controlled via a rotary switch in the facia*. The recommended settings are as follows.

0 Front seat(s) occupied 1 All seats occupied 2 All seats occupied, and load in luggage

compartment

3 Driver’s seat occupied and load in the

luggage compartment

*On models built from 1998 onwards with Xenon headlights, an automatic headlamp range adjustment system is fitted, to which no manual adjustment can be made; see Chapter 12 for details.

13 Road test

Instruments and electrical equipment

1 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road feel. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch, transmission and driveshafts.

7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch action is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 Check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or notchy. 11 On automatic transmission models, make sure that all gearchanges occur smoothly, without snatching, and without an increase in engine speed between changes. Check that all of the gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they should be referred to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer.

Check the operation and performance of the braking system

12 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 13 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 14 Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 15 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. Depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum, then start the engine. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable give in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is now depressed again, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably harder.

14 Wheel alignment -

check

1 Accurate wheel alignment is essential for positive, accurate steering, stable road holding and to prevent abnormal tyre wear. Wheel alignment checking is carried out with the car loaded to its kerbside weight, and with the tyre pressures correctly adjusted. 2 The front toe setting, front camber angle, rear toe setting and rear camber angle are all adjustable, but can only be checked using specialised equipment; work of this nature should therefore be entrusted to a garage or suitably-equipped tyre specialist.

15 Exhaust system -

check

1 Park the vehicle on a level surface and switch off the engine. Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands - refer to Jacking and vehicle support in Reference. 2 With the engine cold (wait at least an hour after switching off the engine), check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. 3 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage. Make sure that all brackets and mountings are in good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight. Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black, sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. 4 Rattles and vibrations can often be traced to the exhaust system. Tap the silencer units with a soft mallet and listen for noises caused by corroded or displaced baffle material. Do not strike the catalytic converter, as this may damage the ceramic block inside. 5 Carefully rock the pipes and silencers from side to side on their mountings. If the components are able to come into contact with the body or suspension parts, look for broken or worn rubber mountings.

1•12 Every 10 000 miles

3510 Vauxhall/Opel Omega

16 Air filter element -

renewal

1 The air cleaner is located in the front righthand corner of the engine compartment. 2 Release the retaining clip and disconnect the intake duct from the air cleaner housing. 3 Release the retaining clips then lift the air cleaner cover and filter element out of position.

4 Wipe out the casing and the cover. 5 Fit the new filter, noting that the rubber

locating flange should be uppermost, and secure the cover with the clips.

6 Reconnect the intake duct to the air cleaner housing and secure it in position with the retaining clip.

17 Pollen filter -

renewal

1 Open the bonnet and support it in the upright position. 2 Carefully peel the rubber beading away from the bulkhead seam, at the rear of the engine compartment, on the drivers side of the car (see illustration).

Every 20 000 miles or 2 years

17.2 Carefully peel the rubber beading away from the bulkhead seam

+ 311 hidden pages

Opel Omega 1994 1999 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual