Janome HD3000 Instruction Manual

INSTRUCTION BOOK
IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this sewing machine.
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:
This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for household use only.
Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.
DANGERTo reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before replacing a sewing machine bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.
WARNING To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric
shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this ownerʼs manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this ownerʼs manual.
The design and specifications are subject to change without a prior notice.
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return this sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of this sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“O”) position, then remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch this sewing machine off (“O”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and the like.
15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments mentioned in this ownerʼs manual.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating t electrical/electronic products. If in doubt please contact you
retailer for guidance.
(European Union only)
o
r
1
Do’s and Don’ts
1. Always be aware of the up-and-down movement of the needle and do not turn your attention from the machine while it is running.
2. When leaving the sewing machine unattended, the main switch of the machine must be switched off or the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.
3. When servicing the sewing machine, or when removing covers or changing lamps, the machine must be disconnected from the supply by removing the plug from the socket-outlet.
4. Do not place anything on the foot control, otherwise the machine will start inadvertently, or the control or motor may burn out.
5. The maximum permissible power for the sewing lamp bulb is 15 watts.
6. When using your sewing machine for the first time, place a piece of waste fabric under the presser foot and run the machine without thread for a few minutes. Wipe away any oil which may have appeared.
2
SECTION I ESSENTIAL PARTS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECCTION IV UTILITY STITCHI
G
N
s
Name
of Parts ............................................................................................ 4~5
t
Foo
Storage Compartment ............................................................................. 6
Table(Accessory Storage Box) ...................................................... 7
Extensio
SECTION II GETTING READY TO S
Connectin Foo Sewin Pressur Droppin
To Snap On and Snap Off the Preser Foot ................................................... 11
To Re Sea Changin Threa Windin
Threading the Machine .................................................................................. 18
Needle Threader..........................................................................................
Drawin
Balancing Needle Thread Tension ................................................................ 21
Pattern Selector Dial ..................................................................................... 22
Zigzag Width Control ..................................................................................... 22
St Variabl
SECCTION III BASIC SEWI
Straigh Changin Straigh Zigza
n
W
E
g
the Machine to the Power Supply ................................................ 8
Control ..................................................................................................... 9
t
g
Light .................................................................................................... 9
e
Dial ................................................................................................. 10
g
the Feed Dogs ............................................................................... 10
Detach and Attach the Foot Holder ......................................................... 12
verse Stitch Button .................................................................................... 12
m
Guide Line ........................................................................................... 12
g
Needle ........................................................................................... 13
d
and Needle Chart .............................................................................. 14
the Bobbin .................................................................................15~17
g
. 19
.
g
Up Bobbin Thread ........................................................................... 20
itch Length Control ..................................................................................... 22
e
Needle Position ............................................................................... 22
G
N
Stitch Sewing ................................................................................... 23
t
g
the Sewing Directions ................................................................... 24
t
Stitching on Heavy Fabrics .............................................................. 24
g
Stitch .................................................................................................. 25
Overcasti Overedg Trico Triple
Outline Stretch Stitich .................................................................................... 27
Sewin Automati
Manual Buttonhole ................................................................................... 32~33
Corde Zippe Rolle Blin
SECCTION V DECORATIVE STITCHI
De Stretc
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................................................................... 42
Sm
Quilting ........................................................................................................... 43
n
Pi Shel Fagoti Appliq Patc
SECCTION VI CARE OF YOUR MACHI
Cleanin Cleanin Insertin Trouble
n
g .................................................................................................... 25
e
Stitch ............................................................................................. 26
Stitch .................................................................................................... 26
t
Strength Stitich .................................................................................... 27
g
Buttons .............................................................................................. 28
c
Buttonhole .............................................................................. 29~31
d
Buttonhole ......................................................................................... 34
r
Application .................................................................................... 35~37
d
Hem .............................................................................................. 38~39
d
Stitch Hemming .................................................................................... 40
N
G
corative Satin Stitch Patterns ................................................................... 41
h
Stitch Patterns ................................................................................... 41
ocking ....................................................................................................... 42
Tucking .................................................................................................... 44
l
Tuck ...................................................................................................... 45
g ......................................................................................................... 45
n u
e ......................................................................................................... 46
h
Work .................................................................................................... 46
E
N
the Bobbin Holder .......................................................................... 47
g g
the Hook Race ............................................................................... 48
g
the Bobbin Holder ........................................................................... 48
Shooting ..................................................................................... 49~50
3
Names of Parts
SECTION I ESSENTIAL PARTS
q Stitch length control w Zigzag width control e Bobbin winder stopper r Bobbin winder spindle t Foot storage compartment y Flip-top sewing instruction panel u Spool holder (large) i Spool pin o Top cover !0 Thread tension dial !1 Pressure dial !2 Face plate !3 Buttonhole lever !4 Thread cutter
Needle threader
!5 !6
Needle plate
!7
Hook cover plate
Hook cover plate release button
!8
Extension table
!9
(Accessory storage box)
Reverse stitch button
@0
!0
!1
!2
!3
!4 !5
!6
!7
o
i u y t
r
e
w q
@0
!8
!9
4
@2
@3
@4
@5
@1 @0
#2
#1
#0
@9
@0 Thread take-up lever @1 Carrying handle @2 Handwheel @3 Clutch knob @4 Pattern selector dial @5 Feed balance dial @6 Power switch @7 Machine socket @8 Needle clamp screw @9 Drop feed lever #0 Free arm #1 Presser foot #2 Presser foot lifter
@6
@7
@8
5
Foot Storage Compartmen
q
t
Each presser foot and pocket is lettered for easy
w
e
r
identification and storage. To achieve optimum sewing results, use the foot recommended for each sewing technique.
u
i
t
y
Needle
q
L. Quilter
w
G. Blind stitch hem foot
e
D. Hemmer foot
r
C. Overedge foot
t y
E. Zipper foot B. Transparent buttonhole foot
u
A. Zigzag foot
i
R. Automatic buttonhole foot
o
case
o
* The automatic buttonhole foot can be stored in the
extension table.
6
Extension Table (Accessory Storage Box)
Extension Table
The extension table provides added sewing surface and can be easily removed for free arm sewing.
For free arm sewing
Lift out the extension table, as illustrated .
For attaching the table
Position the two pins of the storage box on the base slit and push down gently.
Accessory storage box
¡
Sewing accessoires are conveniently located under the extension table.
7
SECTION II GETTING READY TO SEW
Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply
Before connecting the power, make sure the voltage and frequency of your electrical power conform to the machine.
Switch off the power, fit the nonreversible plug into the machine socket and plug the machine into the power supply.
Switch on the power.
While in operation, always keep your eyes o touch any moving parts such as the thread take-up lever, handwheel or needle
Always turn off the power switch and unplu
Do not place anything on the foot control, otherwise the machine will run intermittently.
.
- when leaving the machine unattended
- when attaching or removing parts.
- when cleaning the machine.
n the sewing area, and do not
g from the power supply: .
Operating Instructions:
The symbol "O" of a switch indicates the "off" position of a switch.
For an appliance with a polarized plug (one blad To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug i
polarized outlet only one way If it does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse th contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet.
Do no
t modify the plug in any way.
.
e wider than the other):
s intended to fit in a
e plug. If it still does not fit,
The foot controller Model YC-482J or TJC-150 i machine (US
8
A market only).
s used with this sewing
Foot Control
Sewing Light
Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control. The harder you press on the control, the faster the machine runs.
The sewing light is located behind the face plate.
[To replace the bulb]
(A)• To remove.........Turn to the left.
To replace.........Turn to the right.
(B)• To remove.........Push and twist to
the left.
To replace.........Push and twist to
the right.
NOTE: When replacing the bulb, unplug
the machine.
9
Pressure Dial
The pressure dial should be set at “3” for regular sewing. Reduce the pressure to “2” for appliques.
Dropping the Feed Dogs
Drop feed lever is located underneath of free arm bed.
To raise the feed dogs, push the lever to the direction of arrow as illustrated.
Set the pressure to “1” when sewing chiffon, lace, organdy and other fine fabrics. Velours and knits with a lot of stretch may also require a “1” setting.
10
For dropping the feed dogs, push the lever to the direction of arrow as illustrated.
* Feed dogs must always be up for normal sewing.
To Snap On and Snap Off the Presser Foot
To snap off
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its highest position. Raise the presser foot.
Press the lever on the back of the foot holder. The presser foot will drop off.
To snap on Additional Clearance
When attaching the presser foot, the pressure dial should always be at position “3”. Place the presser foot so the pin on the foot lies just under the groove of the foot holder. Lower the foot holder to lock the foot in place.
The presser foot can be raised higher for additional clearance.
11
15
20
5/8
6/8
To Detach and Attach the Foot Holder
To Detach
Remove the thumb screw by turning the screw counter-clockwise with the screwdriver.
To Attach
Align the hole in the foot holder with the threaded hole in the presser bar and fit the foot holder screw into the hole. Tighten the screw by turning it clockwise.
Reverse Stitch Button
As long as you keep the reverse stitch button depressed, the machine sews backwards.
Seam Guide Line
The numbers on the needle plate indicate the distance between the left needle position and the line.
The numbers in the front indicate in millimeters.
The numbers in the back indicate in inches.
12
Changing Needle
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you and lower the presser foot. Turn off the power switch.
Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it counter-clockwise.
Remove the needle from the clamp.
Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side away from you.
When inserting the needle into the clamp, push it up as far as it will go and tighten the clamp screw firmly with the screwdriver.
* Check your needles frequently for barbed or blunted points. Snags
and runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics are permanet and are almost always caused by a damaged needle.
13
Thread and Needle Chart
Fabrics
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
In general, fine threads and needles are used for sewing thin fabrics, and thicker threads and needles are used for sewing heavy fabrics. Always test
thread and needle size on a small piece of fabric which will be used for actual sewing.
Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.
When sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and synthetics, use a BLUE TIPPED needle. The blue tipped needle effectively prevents skipped stitches.
When sewing very fine fabrics, sew over a piece of paper to prevent yarn distortion.
Crepe de Chine, Voile
Lawn, Organdy, Georgette, Tricot
Linens, Cotton, Pique,
Serge Double Knits, Percale
Denim, Tweed, Gabardine,
Coating, Drapery and Upholstery Fabric
Fine Silk
Fine Cotton
Fine Synthetic
Fine Cotton Covered Polyester
50 silk
50 to 80 Cotton
50 to 60 Synthetic
Cotton Covered Polyester
50 silk
40 to 50 Cotton
40 to 50 Synthetic
Cotton Covered Polyester
Threads
Needle Size
9
or
11
11
or
14
14
or
16
14
Winding the Bobbin
Horizontal Spool Pin
Ordinary Spool
Small Spool
Lift up the spool pin. Place the spool of thread on the spool with the thread coming off the spool as shown. Attach the large spool holder pressing it firmly against the thread spool.
* The small spool holder is used with narrow or small thread spools.
Additional Spool Pin
The additional spool pin is used to wind extra bobbins without unthreading the machine. To use, insert the additional spool pin in the hole. Place the felt and the spool on the pin.
Removing the Bobbin
Gently slide the hook cover plate release button to the right, and remove the cover plate. Lift out the bobbin.
15
Threading the Bobbin Winder
e
r
t
w
er
Pull the clutch knob away from the machine to
q
disengage the clutch.
Draw the thread from the spool.
w
Guide the thread around the thread guide.
e
Guide the thread around the bobbin winder thread
r
guide.
Insert the thread through the hole the bobbin,
t
threading from the inside to the outside.
o
yui
Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle, and push it to the right.
y
q
With the free end of the thread held in your hand, depress the foot control.
u
Stop the machine when it has made a few turns, and cut the thread close to the hole in the bobbin. Depress the foot control again. When the bobbin is fully wound, it will sotp automatically.
Return the bobbin winder to its original position by moving the spindle to the left, and
i
cut the thread as shown.
Push in the clutch knob to engage clutch.
o
* The machine will not sew untill the clutch knob is pushed in.
16
Inserting the Bobbin
Place the bobbin in the bobbin holder with the thread running counter-clockwise.
Guide the thread into the notch A
on the front side of the bobbin holder. Draw the thread to the left sliding it between the tension spring blades.
Continue to draw the thread lightly
until the thread slips into notch B.
Pull out about 15 cm (6˝) of thread and attach the hook cover plate.
17
Threading the Machine
q
e
w
r
qw ert
Raise the take-up lever to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you. Raise the presser foot with the presser foot lifter and thread in the order from q to t.
q Lead the thread from the spool and pass it through the thread guide. Then draw it down along the
right slot.
w Guide the thread around the bottom of the thread guide plate from right to left, then draw it upward. e Firmly draw the thread from right to left over the take-up lever and down into the take-up lever eye. r Then guide it down along the left slot. t Slide the thread from the left behind the needle bar therad guide.
Thread the needle.
18
t
Needle Threader
q
Raise the needle to the
heighest position. Lower the
presser foot.
Pull the needle threader knob
as far as it will go. q Threader knob
Pass the thread
between the horn
and triangle as
shown.
w Horn e Triangle
e
r
w
Draw the thread to the left into the
groove on the back.
r Groove
t
y
Gently push the button.
The pin will push the thread
throgh the needle eye to the
back.
t Button y Pin
u
i
Raise the threader knob slowl
The thead loop is pulled up
throgh the needle eye.
Pull the thread loop to remove
the thread end to the rear.
u Threader loop i Threader end
y.
The needle threader can be
used with a #11 to #16 needle.
Thread size 50 to 90 should
also work well.
19
Drawing Up Bobbin Thread
Raise the presser foot and hold the
q w e Pull 15 cm (6˝) of both threads back and
needle thread lightly with your left hand.
20
Turn the handwheel slowly towards you with your right hand until the needle goes down and continue turning handwheel until the take-up lever is at its highest position. Lightly draw up the needle therad forming a loop of bobbin thread.
under the presser foot.
Balancing Needle Thread Tension
Thread Tension for Zigzag Sewing
The needle thread and the bobbin thread should interlock in the center of two layers of fabric in straight seams.
Set the desired number of the thread tension dial at setting mark.
Loosen the needle thread tension by moving the dial to a lower number.
Tighten the needle thread tension by moving the dial to a higher number.
To obtain better zigzag stitches, the needle thread tension should be slightly weaker than in the case of straight sewing. The needle thread should appear slightly on the reverse side of the fabric.
21
Pattern Selector Dial
Zigzag Width Control
Stitch Length Control
Variable Needle Position
Select the pattern by turning the pattern selector dial and the red signal shows the selected pattern.
* Raise the needle above the
fabrics and presser foot when you turn the pattern selector dial.
22
Higher the number, wider the stitch width.
This machine will sew the maximum 6.5mm (0.25˝) wide zigzag.
* Raise the needle above the
fabrics when you set the stitch width.
The higher the number, the longer the stitch length. You can select the suitable stitch length for fabrics that you plan to sew.
Note: Stitch length is automatically
set for stretch stitch pattern on pattern number 14 to 18.
When pattern number 13 is selected, you can move the needle between center and left needle positions.
Straight Stitch Sewing
Machine Setting
SECTION III BASIC SEWING
Raise the presser foot and position the fabric next to a stitching guide line on the needle plate.
Lower the presser foot and smooth the threads toward the back. Depress the foot control.
Gently guide the fabric along the guide line letting the fabric feed naturally.
For fastening the ends of seams, press the reverse stitch button and sew several reverse stitches.
Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric, drawing the threads to the back.
The threads are cut the proper length for starting the next seam.
23
Changing the Sewing Directions
Straight Stitching on Heavy Fabri
cs
Stop the machine and bring the needle down into the fabric by turning the handwheel. Raise the presser foot.
Pivot the fabric around the needle
to change sewing direction as desired. Lower the presser foot.
24
Lower the needle info the fabric at the point where you wish to start sewing. Press the small black button on the zigzag foot with your left hand to “lock” the presser foot to the fabric.
Lower the presser foot with your right hand, keeping pressu
re
on the black button with your left hand.
Release the black button and start sewin
g.
Zigzag Stitch
SECTION IV UTILITY STITCHING
Machine Setting
Simple zigzag stitch is widely used for overcasting, applique, sewing on buttons etc.
Machine Settin
g
Overcasting
This type of stitch is used on the seam allowance to prevent fabrics from fraying at raw edges. It can be used to finish a hem edge. Place the edge of the fabric next to the black prong of foot C .
25
Overedge Stitch
Tricot Stitch
Machine Setting
Place the edge of the fabric next to the black prong of foot. The wires on this foot prevent light weight fabric from rolling and creating a ridge. The black prong guides your sewing so the needle falls off the fabric wrapping the threads around the edge to stop raveling.
Machine Settin
g
Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the edge will be slightly inside the right hand side of the presser foot. Guide the work so the right hand stitches fall at the edge of the fabric.
26
Triple Strength Stitch
Machine Setting Machine Setting
Outline Stretch Stitch
This strong, durable stitch is recommended where both elasticity and strength are needed to insure comfort and durability.
Use it to reinforce areas such as crotch and armhole seams.
Also use when constructing items such as backpacks for extra strength.
The stitch is sewn with two stitches forward and one stitch backward forming a seam that does not rip easily.
Garments should be basted for fitting before seaming.
Pattern 14 is a narrow stretch stitch designed to eliminate puckering on knit fabrics and bias seams, while permitting the seam to be pressed completely flat.
For a 1.5 cm (5/8˝) seams, use the 2 cm (6/8˝) marking on the needle plate.
When sewing light weight fabrics, set the pressure dial at “1” or “2”.
27
Sewing Buttons
Machine Setting
Tape the button over the placement mark. A pin can be placed on top of the foot to from a shank. Before lowering the foot, test the needle swing making sure the needle drops in each hole. Adjust the stitch width if necessary. Lower the foot.
28
Align the both holes of button with the needle swing, lower the foot and depress the foot control.
To strengthen the shank, cut the threads leaving a 20 cm (8˝) tail. Bring the needle thread down through the hole in the button and wind it around the shank. Draw the thread to the wrong side of fabric and knot.
* When button sewing is finished, return the drop feed lever.
Automatic Buttonhole
Machine Setting
* The size of buttonhole is
automatically set by placing the button in the automatic buttonhole foot (R).
* The button holder of the foot
takes a button size up to 2.5 cm (1˝) in diameter.
* Make a test buttonhole on a
sample duplicating the fabric, interfacing and seams of the actual garment.
* Place the button on the fabric
sample and mark the top and bottom to determine the position of buttonhole.
* Use the interfacing on the stretch
fabrics.
(NOTE)
should
There be no gap
Spring holder
q w
Slider
e
q Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its highest
position. Raise the presser foot lifter.
w Set the pattern indicator at “BH” by turning the pattern selector
dial.
e Attach the automatic buttonhole foot (R).
NOTE: There should be no gap between the slider and spring holder
of the foot as shown above.
29
Touch
r t y u i
r Pull the button holder to the back, and
t Pull the buttonhole lever downward as far
Bottonhole lever
place the button in it. Push back the button holder toward you as far as it will go.
as it will go.
y Insert the fabric under the foot.
Turn the handwheel one complete turn by your hand.
u Remove the fabric to the left to draw both
threads to the left.
i Insert the garment under the foot, and lower
the needle at the starting point. Then lower the automatic buttonhole foot.
Starting point
Starting point
o
Sew slowly and stop the machine at the
o
strating point when a buttonhole is completed.
* The machine sews front bartack and left row
first, then the back bartack and right row.
30
!0 !1 !2 !3
!0 Cut the both needle and bobbin threads
leaving about 10 cm (4˝) thread ends. Draw the needle thread to wrong side of fabric by pulling the bobbin thread. Then, knot the threads.
!1 Insert a pin inside the bartack.
Then cut the opening with a seam ripper. Take care not to cut the stitches.
!2 To repeat buttonhole sewing.
After a buttonhole is sewn, move the indicator to pattern “1” ( ) by turning the pattern selector dial in the direction of arrow 1, then return the indicator back to “BH” by turning the dial in the direction of arrow 2 to reset for sewing the next buttonhole.
!3 When buttonhole sewing is
finished, push the buttonhole lever upward as far as it will go.
31
Manual Buttonhol
Machine Setting
e
q w e r t
* If the diameter of the button is
more than 2.5 cm (1˝), a buttonhole must be made manually as follows:
32
q Turn the handwheel toward you to raise
the needle to its highest position. Raise the presser foot lifter.
w Set the pattern indicator at “BH” by
turning the pattern selector dial.
e Attach the buttonhole foot (B).
Pull the buttonhole lever downward as far
r
as it will go.
t Lower the needle info the garment where
the buttonhole is to start, and lower the foot.
y u i
y
Sew the front bartack and left row, then stop the machine after sewing the desired total length of buttonhole.
u Pull the buttonhole lever toward you.
Starting point
i Sew the back bartack and right row, then
stop the machine at the starting point. * To cut the opening and to reset for
sewing the next buttonhole, refer to the instructions on page 30.
33
Corded Buttonhole
Machine Setting
* Set the stitch width in
accordance with the thickness of the cord used.
* To cut the opening and to reset
for sewing the next buttonhole, refer to the instructions on page
30.
q w e r t y u i
q With the buttonhole foot raised, hook the filler cord on the cord spur at the back of the buttonhole foot. w Bring the ends toward you under the buttonhole foot until they clear the front end. e Hook the filler cord info the forks on the front of the R foot to hold them tight. r Lower the needle into the garment where the buttonhole will start and lower the foot. t Depress the foot control gently and sew the buttonhole.
Each side of the buttonhole and the bartacks will be sewn over the cord.
y Remove the fabric from the machine and cut the sewing threads. u Pull the left end of the filler cord to tighten it. i Thread the end through a darning needle, draw to the bottom side of the fabric and cut.
34
Zipper Application
Machine Setting
q
w
q To sew the left side of the zipper, attach the zipper foot to
the pin on the right hand side.
w To sew the right side of the zipper, attach the zipper foot
to the pin on the left hand side.
Fabric Preparation:
Place right sides of fabric together and sew to the end of the zipper opening.
Reverse stitch to knot the stitches. Sew the zipper opening with a basting stitch.
35
To Sew:
Fold back the left seam allowance.
Turn under the right seam allowance to from a 0.2 to 0.3 cm (1/8˝) fold.
Place the zipper teeth next to the fold and pin in place.
36
Attach the zipper foot with the pin on the right hand side. Lower the zipper foot.
Sew through fold and zipper tape. Stop just before the zipper foot reaches the slider on the zipper tape.
Turn the handwheel by hand and lower the needle info the fabric. Raise the zipper foot and open the zipper. Lower the foot and sitich the remainder of the seam.
Close the zipper and spread the fabric flat with the right side facing up.
Move the zipper foot to the left pin. Guide the edge of the foot along the zipper teeth and stitch through garment and zipper tape. Stop about 5 cm (2˝) from the top of the zipper.
With the needle down in the fabric, raise the foot, remove the basting stitches and open the zipper. Then lower the foot and stitch the remainder of the seam making sure the fold is even.
37
Rolled Hem
Machine Setting
38
Make a double 0.25 cm (1/8˝) fold approximately 8 cm (3˝) in length.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the point where sewing is to begin, then lower the hemmer foot.
Sew 3 or 4 stitches while pulling the needle and bobbin threads.
Lower the needle into the fabric and lift the hemmer foot. Insert the folded portion of the fabric into the curl of the hemmer foot.
0.7 cm (1/4˝)
Lower the hemmer foot, then sew by lifting up the edge of the fabric to keep it feeding smoothly and evenly.
0.7 cm (1/
4˝)
Trim about 0.7 cm(1/4˝) from corners as illustrated, to reduce bulk.
39
Blind Stitch Hemming
Machine Setting
On lightweight fabrics the raw edge can be turned under and pressed. On heavy weight fabrics that ravel, the raw edge should be overcast first.
Fold up the hem the desired amount and pin in place.
Then fold the hem under the fabric as illustrated.
40
Position the fabric on the machine so that the needle just pierces the folded part of the fabric when the needle comes over to the extreme left side.
Lower the presser foot.
Turn the guide screw and move the sliding guide next to the folded edge. Sew guiding the folded edge along the sliding guide.
SECTION V DECORATIVE STITCHING
Decorative Satin Stitch Patterns
Machine Setting Machine Setting
Sew a row of stitches and adjust the thread tension so the needle thread should appear on the reverse side of the fabric Test the stitch on the actual fabric for the best results
.
.
Stretch Stitch Patterns
Stitch length of the automatic patterns (No.14 to 18) are preset, so you do not need to select the stitch length for these patterns
.
41
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance Smocking
Machine Setting
When patterns are compressed, correct by turning the dial in the direction of “ + ”.
1 cm (3/8˝)
If patterns are uneven when sewing with a particular fabric, adjust them with the feed balance dial.
* After sewing with an altered
dial setting, you must reset the dial to “ ”.
42
When patterns are drawn out, correct by turning the dial in the direction of “ – ”.
With the stitch length control at “4”, sew straight lines 1 cm(3/8˝) apart across the area to be smocked. Knot the threads along the ege. Pull the bobbin threads and distribute gathers evenly. Sew pattern stitches between the straight seams. Pull out the gathering stitches.
Quilting
Machine Setting
The quiliting guide will help to keep the stitchintg lines straight. Insert the quilter in the opening, and slide it at the desired width.
Sew guiding the quilter over the previous row of stitching.
43
Pin Tucking
Machine Setting
Fold the fabric with wrong sides together on the foldline.
44
Position the fabric so that the needle pierces 0.1 to 0.2 cm (1/16˝) inside of folded part and lower the presser foot.
Turn the guide screw and move the sliding guide next to the folded edge.
Sew guiding the folded edge along
the sliding guide.
Press the pin tucks to one side.
Shell Tuck
Machine Setting Machine Setting
Place the folded edge along the slot of foot. The needle should fall off the edge of the fabric on the right forming a tuck.
Fagoting
Fold under 1.5cm (1/12˝) on each fabric edge and press. Pin the two edges to paper 0.3cm (1/8˝) apart.
Sew slowly guiding the fabric so the needle catches the folded edge on each side.
Peel off the paper from the wrong side of the fabric.
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Applique
Patch Work
Machine Settin
g
Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. Stitch around the applique making sure the needle falls along the
Machine Setting
Sew seam and press seam allowance open. Sew pattern stitch on the right side of garment centering stitches over the seam
line. outer edge of the applique. When sewing corners, lower the needle down into the fabric. Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric to the right or left.
* When applique sewing is
finished, return the pressure dial to 3.
46
This machine never needs oiling but the bobbin area and hook race should be cleaned after completion of every garment. Do not store the machine in an area of high humidity, near a radiator or in direct sunlight. Clean the outside of the machine with a soft cloth and neutral soap. Raise the needle and unplug the machine before cleaning.
SECTION VI CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Cleaning the Bobbin Holder
Turn off the power switch or unplug the machine.
Remove the cover plate by sliding the hook cover plate release button to the right.
Take out the bobbin. Brush out dust and lint or you may use a vacuum cleaner.
Insert the bobbin
Attach the hook cover plate.
47
Cleaning the Hook Race Inserting the Bobbin Holder
Unplug the machine and remove the presser foot and needle. Remove the screw on the left hand side of the needle plate with the screwdriver. Remove the needle plate.
48
Take out the bobbin. Lift up the bobbin holder and remove it.
Clean the feed dogs, hook race and bobbin holder with the lint brush and a soft dry cloth.
Line up the triangle marks and position the bobbin holder so the notch fits next to the stopper in the hook race.
Trouble Shooting
Condition
The machine does n run smoothly and is noisy.
The needle thread breaks.
The bobbin thread breaks.
The needle break
s.
Cause
1. Threads have been caught in hook mechanis
ot
2. The feed dog is packed with lint.
1. The needle thread is not threaded properl
2. The needle thread tension is too tight.
3. The needle is bent or blunt.
4. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
5. The fabric is not being drawn to the rear when sewing is finished.
6. The thread is either too heavy or too fine for the needle.
1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin holde
2. Lint has collected in the bobbin holder.
3. The bobbin is damaged and does not turn smoothly.
1. The needle is incorrectly inserte
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle clamp screw is loose.
4. The tension of the needle thread is too tight.
5. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when sewing is finished.
6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn.
7. The pattern selector dial has been turned while the needle was in the material.
d.
m.
y.
r.
Reference
See Pages 47 and See Page 48
Se
e Page 18 See Page 21 See Page 13 See Page 13 See Page 23 See Page 14
Se
e Page 17 See Page 47 Exchange bobbin.
Se
e Page 13 See Page 13 See Page 13 See Page 21 See Page 23 See Page 14 See Page 22
48
Skipped stitches.
1. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle and/or threads are not suitable for the work being sewn.
4. A BLUE TIPPED
5. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
6. The presser foot pressure is not strong enough.
needle is not being used for sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and synthetics.
See Page 13 See Page 13 See Page 14 See Page 14 See Page 18 See Page 10
49
Condition
Cause
Reference
Seam Puckering.
Stitches form loo
ps
below the work.
The cloth is not feeding smoothly.
The machine does not work.
The buttonho
le stitches are not balanced.
1. The needle thread tension is too tight.
2. The needle thread is not threaded correctly.
3. The needle is too heavy for the cloth being sewn.
4. The stitches are too coarse for the fabric being sewn.
5. The presser foot pressure is not correctly adjusted. * When sewing extremely light weight materials, place a sheet of paper underneath the fabric.
1. The needle thread tension is too loos
e.
2. The needle is either too heavy or too fine for the thread.
1. The feed dog is packed with lin
t.
2. The presser foot pressure is too weak.
3. The stitches are too fine.
4. The feed dog is not raised afte
1. The machine is not plugged i
r “Drop feed” has been used.
n.
2. A thread is caught in the hook race.
3. Clutch knob is pulled away for the bobbin winding.
4. Bobbin winder spindle is in the winding position.
1. The stitch length is not suitable for the fabric being sew
n.
2. The work is being pulled or held back.
3. Interfacing is not used with stretch fine fabric
s.
See Page 21 See Page 18 See Page 14 Make the stitches denser. See Page 10
e Page 21
Se See Page 14
Se
e Page 48 See Page 10 Make the stitches coarser. See Page 10
See Page
8 See Page 48 See Page 16 See Page 16
See Page 29,32 and Do not force the fabric for guiding. See Page 29
34
50
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