Crivit Bottom Feeder Fishing Reel Combo User Manual

Assembly
instructions

1. The salt water
stationary reel is
assembled on the
rod.

2. Check the proper fit
and the secure hold
of the reel on the
rod.

3. Open the bail arm of
the reel.

4. Pull the line through
all line rings of the
rod.

5. Affix the heavy sea
swivel at the end of
the line with a half
locked blood knot.

6. Check this knot for
fit and hold by
pulling for try-out.

7. Hang a loop of the
mackerel leader in
the open karabiner
of the swivel.

8. Close the karabiner
of the swivel.

9. Organize and
stretch the mackerel
leader.

10. Hang the second
sea swivel in the
free loop of the
mackerel leader.

11. Check the
connection of the
mackerel leader by
pulling for try-out.

12. Hang heavy
sinker or jigger in
the open karabiner
at the end of the
leader.

13. Close the karabiner
part of the swivel.

14. Close the bail arm.

15. Adjust the brake of
the stationary reel
to the strength of
the line.

16. Have the following
accessories with
you:

a) stunning equipment
b) knife
c) unhooking pliers
d) measuring device
e) landing aid

Assembly of the

sea/boat rod

Swivel assembly

Affix swivel with half, lok­ked blood knot

1) Pass line through the eye
of the swivel

2) Lay at least 5 turns
around the main line

3) Pass the end of the line through
the eye between the swivel and the
turns and lock it

4) Do slightly moisten the
line (tip of the tongue) and
pull it to a knot

Casting sinker or jigger assembly
Hang the eye of the sinker or

the jigger in the karabiner
of the swivel and close it

Swivel assembly

with loop

1) Loop is passed
through the eye

of the swivel

2) Swivel is passed through
the loop

3) The loop is strained with
a strong tension and the
connection is checked

4) Hang in the salt water
swivel in the lower loop
of the mackerel leader

Reel assembly

Fixed reel seat

Screw-in reel
holder with
lock nut

Moveable
reel seat

Nut

Lock nut

Fix reel seat with nut and
secure it with the lock nut

Insert reel foot
into the reel seats

© Reprint and publication in extracts only
with permission of the HoSpo-Verlag,
51674 Wiehl

- GERMANY -

C AU T I O N

!

Keep hooks and small parts away
from children and pets. These arti­cles may only be used under gui­dance of grown ups.

GB

With this kind of fishing that is the most known
one at the seas, mackerel, herring, codling and
other marine fish species are caught.

The equipment

Basic requirement is a strong rod with a
casting weight of 150-300 gram. A large, sta­tionary reel that is suitable for fishing in salt
water is also necessary. The line should have
a diameter of at least 0.5mm and a lifting capa­city of at least 25 pounds.

The rod must be considerably longer than the
leader. With a shorter rod it would not be pos­sible to heave the mackerels with one tug over
the rail. They could strike against the ship’s
side or shake themselves free. Rods of 2.40 to

2.70 m have proved their worth.

The baits

A mackerel leader that is one to two metres
long and provided with several hooks is used
as bait.

The standard mackerel leader is 1.75 m long
and has up to 6 hooks.

Lures are tied to these hooks, mostly coloured
feathers but also tin foils, tinsel or plastic imita­tions of crabs, fish and octopuses.

The form of the lure does not play an important
role. In a shoal, fish react on everything that
has the size of their prey.

The leader has a loop on both ends. With one
of these loops, it is attached to the karabiner of
the main line, with the other, the weight, a
casting sinker or jigger is affixed.

Fishing

When the boat has reached a promising area,
it is stopped and one can start fishing.
The bail arm is thrown and the line with the
mackerel leader and the casting weight is cast
by means of a forearm cast.

The cutters are often completely occupied,
thus mutual consideration is essential. One
endangers others and oneself by overhead
casts, a too low weight drives the mackerel lea­der in the lines of the fishing mates.

One lets the line run from the reel until the
casting weight has contact with the bottom.
Then, the bail arm is closed and the weight is
winded up approximately 1 m.

In order that the lure becomes alive, the tip of
the rod is slightly lifted and lowered. If no fish

bites within one minute, one winds the line up
2-3 m for trying the same in a new water depth.
This procedure is repeated so many times until
the casting weight has reached the surface
again. Then, it is cast again.

As the boat is drifting during fishing , that
means not anchored, one fishes new areas
again and again.

If a fish bites, this makes itself felt by a heavy
jerk. Experienced fishermen do, however, not
pull a single fish out of the water but wait until
more fish have bitten on the remaining free
hooks. Only then do they take in the line.

In doing so it is important, to count the crank
revolutions. With this trick, one can determine
the water depth in which the shoal is.

The mackerel is not drilled. For this, it is to light
in comparison to the line strength. The hooked
mackerel is not brought into the boat with a lan­ding aid, either; it is simply lifted out of the
water. The strong rod and the strong line make
this possible.

After the unhooking and feeding of the fish, the
return stop of the reel is turned off and the lure
is let into the water by turning the crank bak­kwards, that means not cast.
The number of crank revolutions corresponds
to that with which we have earlier fetched the
fish out of the water. In doing so, the lure rea­ches the depth where the mackerels are.

Already on the boat, the fish are professionally
gutted and cleaned. One should pay attention
that there are no blood spots on the clothes
afterwards. Fish blood can only be removed
very hard.
After the fish are cleaned, they are stored in
the brought along ice box. Freezer packs in the
ice boxes have not proved their worth – parti­cularly on hot summer days. Better is dry ice,
that keeps the fish fresh for about 24 hours.

When fishing with the mackerel rod, also cod­ling, coalfish, garpike, horse mackerel and pol­lack are caught, especially if a jigger is used as
the casting weight.
When unhooking the horse mackerel, one
must be especially careful. The fish has large,

sharp back spines which can easily hurt you.
At the end, a special characteristic of the mak­kerel should be mentioned: as member of the
family of the bonitos, mackerels have a blood
heat that is only a little bit higher than that of
the surrounding water. That is one reason for
their unbelievable temperament.

The mackerel has a size of 30-35 cm and
weighs 400 to 500 gram. The hitherto heaviest
exemplar was caught by an American, weight:

3.397 gram. The German record mackerel,
however, put only 1.476 gram on the scales.

Jigging with the sea rod

After possible loose line has been reeled, one
can start with the jig movement. One accelera­tes the movement when lifting the rod tip and
decelerates the movement when dropping the
tip.
As loose line is reeled with every jig move­ment, one leads the jigger across the bottom
until the line runs almost parallel to the boat
body.

Then, the jigger is carefully reeled for a new
cast. In jigging aground, the lure/hook must not
drift under the boat as it could otherwise get
caught with the equipment of the fishermen on
the other side of the boat.

The bite of a fish – also in great depths – can
be felt by a clear resistance. A knocking in the
rod indicates that it is no hanger (jigger getting
stuck at the bottom).

The reel brake must be adjusted in such a way
that the fish can swim away with a tractive
force that lies below the tear strength of the
line.

The fish is drilled to the surface by pum­ping (lifting of the rod and reeling of the
line when at the same time lowering
the rod tip). The rod tip is lowe­red so far that the distance to
the water surface is approxi­mately 1m.

Smaller fish that are hooked
well are fetched on board with
an even sweep over the rail. For
bigger fish, your neighbour must
help you with landing equipment.
Heavier fish must not be lifted
over the water surface, as there is the danger
of tearing the line or unhooking.

Undersized fish are carefully unhooked and
gently thrown back into the sea. Sized fish are
stunned; only then are they unhooked and
stabbed.

Sea rod “wind and drifting direction“

Lure weight
approx. 100g

Lure weight
approx. 200g

Fishing with the sea/boat rod

Casting of the mak­kerel system with the
forearm cast

Swinging forward

Swinging backward

When the line is swinging
forward for the second
time, release it

Jigging with the sea/boat rod aground

Sailor’s knot
(for mackerel
leader)

“Jigging” in
free water

As sembly inst ructions

1. The large stationary reel is
assembled on the rod.

2. Check the proper fit and the
secure hold of the reel on the
r o d .

3. Open the bail arm of the reel.

4. Starting from the reel, pull the
line through all line rings of the
r o d .

5. The first stopper is assembled.

6. The bead is threaded.

7. Add a sliding float with a load
bearing capacity of between 20
and 50 g.

8. Thread the sliding lead being
s u fficient for balancing the float
on the main line.

9. Assemble the second stopper.

10. Fasten the large swivel by
means of a half, locked blood
knot at the main line.

11. Check the knot for right fit and by
a tensile test.

12. Push the second stopper (see
point 10) until the half blood knot
of the swivel.

13. Hang a leader with a length of at
least 45 cm with noose and hook
in the open karabiner of the
s w i v e l .

14. Close the karabiner of the
s w i v e l .

15. The stability of the leader must

under no circumstances be
higher than that of the main line.

16. Check the mounting parts of the
leader by means of a tensile test.

17. Close the bail arm of the reel.

18. Adjust the brake of the stationary
r e e l .

19. Have the following accessories
with you:

(a) Mesh landing net/Gaff
(b) Measuring device
(c) Stunning equipment
(d) K n i f e
(e) Unhooker or

unhooking pliers

The fish species that are most often
caught using this fishing method are:
Z a n d e r, pike, sheatfish and large
salmonids (lake trout).

Assembly instructions

for the pike/zander rod

© Reprint and publication in extracts only
with permission of the HoSpo-Verlag,
51674 Wiehl

- GERMANY -

C AU T I O N

!

Keep hooks and small parts away
from children and pets. These arti­cles may only be used under gui­dance of adults.

GB

Steel leader assembly

Hang the steel leader with triplet
or alternatively with single hooks

in the karabiner of the swivel

and close it.

Stopper assembly

Pass the line through the float rubber
(valve rubber)

Repeat the procedure

Tighten the line

Glass bead

Round sliding
lead

Sliding float assembly

English method

Swivel assembly

Fasten the swivel with a
half, locked blood knot

1. Pass the line
through the eye of
the swivel

2. Lie at
least 5 turns
around the
main line

3. Pass the
end of the line
through the eye

between the swivel

and the turns and

lock it

4. Slightly moisten the
line (tip of the tongue)
and pull it to a knot

The leader must be weaker
than the main line

Large predatory fish burden our waters.
They hardly convert ingested food into
own weight.

In its first years of life, the pike, for
example, utilises food very well. It con­verts three pounds forage fish into one
pound own weight. This relation of 3:1
does, however, not apply any more if the
pike has reached a weight of 14 or 15
pounds. For large pikes, the relation bet­ween food and increase in weight dete­riorates to 50:1.

This heavy burden of the fishing resour­ces in our waters must be countered
using preserving measures. One fishes
systematically in the predatory fish’s
habitat.

The equipment

The predatory fish rod is at least 2.70 m
long as it is often necessary to carry out
the lift at great distance. Drilling, an
evenly strong, parabolic action tires the
large predator more quickly. Good
casting, catch a nd drill characte ristics
are best guaranteed by the carbon fibre
rod. It is to be preferred to the glass fibre
rod.

Due to the heavy bait, the rod must have
a casting weight of up to 100 g.

The line should have a dia me ter o f at
least 0.40 mm, the reel should have
space for a line with at least 175 m. This
length is necessary as predatory fish are
often fished at large distance.

Apart from the tape measure, the stun­ning device, the knife and the unhooking
pliers, a large, stable lip grip as well as a
spacious mesh landing net or a handy
gaff belong to the equipment, as well.

An absolute must for removing the hook
is the mouth lock. The mild mouth lock
does not hurt the fish. The angle lock of
the mouth lock is adjusted according to
the size of the fishcaught.

The baits

If the artificia l lure has turned out to be
i n e ffective, a dead or a living bait fish is
caught.

Only in absolutely preserving measures
must the living fish be used as bait fish.
Anything else cannot be arranged with
the animal protection law. Fishing with
living bait fish must be applied for and
approved by the fisheries agency.

You choose the fishspecies that are

most common in the water, like road,
rudd or chub. Predatory fish are "stan­dardised” to the forage animals living in
their waters. Apart from dead fish, also
parts of fis h are used as bait. The bait
must not be too small. A road being e.g.
20 cm long has the correct size.
Many fishermen use baits that are too
small.

Fishing

In order to act as fish-friendly as possi-

ble, single hook assembly and lip baiting
are used.

It is wrong to assemble the hook starting
insid e the mouth. This often le ads to
"wrong bites” as upon swallowing of the
bait, the hook is pushed further into the
bait and the lift carried out by the fisher­man will only hit the bait.

It is correct to push the hook via the
nostril into the mouth. Thus, "wrong
bites” are avoided.

Before casting, the brake is
set to "soft”, as after casting,
the torque increases becau­se of the reduction in the
reele d line and the brake
reaches a higher performan­ce.

If you have, for example, a
full reel (180 m, 0 .40mm l ine) and you
set the brake to half the load bearing
capacity of the line and, upon catch, the
bait is 90 m (that means half of the total
line length) away, the brake power has

doubled due to the reduced line reserve
on the reel. In case of a heavy escape,
the line is overloaded and tears.

With a living bait fish, no longcasts are
carried out. The fish is carefully put into

the water. One choo­ses a place fro m
which one knows due
to lo ng observati ons
that it is the habitat of
a predatory fish.

You will also be suc­cessful with a dead
bait fish. It is off e r e d
as "stellfish” (th at
means on the spot) or
as dead spinning bait
with diff e r e n t
systems.

A long steel lea der
with a length of up to
1 m is important. T h e
reason for this is
obvious: the gastric pouch is located in
the middle of the fish. If a predatory fish
of 1,20 m size swallows the offered bait,
it has at the same time swallowed a 60
cm steel leader. If the leader is too short,
the teeth of the predatory fish touch the
monofil main line.

If the leader is too short, th e floating
lead would moreover hit the flanks of the
fish and the predatory
fish would spit out the
taken bait again.

The bite of the preda­tory fish is immediate­ly acknowledged by a
catch. It is neither
necessary to wait
until the fish has actu­ally swallowed the
bait nor is it in accor­dance with good
huntsmanship.

A delayed catch is
only justified in bait
fish being longer than
20 cm.

As dealing wit h the
predatory fish rod is
one of the most d iff i­cult fishing methods,
it is recommended to
have an experienced
perso n with you who
can assist you during
your first fishing trip.

The predatory fish’s
sense organs:

1. The sense of hearing

2. The sense of touch and feel

3. The sense of smelling

4. The sense of light
(seeing and recogni)

5. The sense of taste

Fishing with the pike/zander rod

WRONG l
ip baiting

CORRECT

lip baiting

Hook system
with dead bait fish

Hook system 1 for spin fishing
with the dead bait fish

Hook system 2 for spin fishing
with the dead bait fish

mouth lock
(half-opened)

angle
lock

Lines

Some time ago, pre pare d animal inte stine, then
horsehair and later braided silk lines were used as
fishing lin es. To d a y, you fish using the mo nofil
nylon line and the multifil Dyneema line.
The monofil nylon line has many advantages:

1. It offers a correspondi ng load bearing capacity
despite being very thin.

2. Under load, its stretching is very low.

3. If maintained correctly, it has a relative long
service life.

Monofil lines
must be treated
c o r r e c t l y. A l r e a d y
when ree ling the
line you ha ve to
see to it tha t no
twis t is tran sfe r­red. It is best to
lead the line from
the bough t line
spool th roug h the side s of a thi ck book onto the
reel.
Monofil industrial yarns are available in approxima­tely 70 different colours and 30 different qualities.
The smal lest ca pacity of the spools is 25m. T h e y
are also called leader spools as mainly leaders are
produced of the 25m line.

The lengths that are most often bought are 200 to
300 m bonus spools.
Monofi l l ines are ava ilable in differe nt d iameter s
and colours. The general rule is: the finer and ligh­ter rod and reel are, the thinner and weaker the line
may be. The stronger rod and reel are desig ned,
the stronger the line must be. In case of doubt, you
have to prioritise the stronger line.

It is true that monofil lines have many advantages;
there are, however, also disadvantages. The line is
very sensitive to heat an d ( UV) light. If i t lies, for
example, for several days on the hat rack of a car
durin g summer, it loo ses up to 90 percent of its
load bearing capacity. Monofil lines are also sensi­tive to the rougheni ng up of the surfac e. Even
finest te ars deepen q uick ly and d estroy the l ine.
That is why all parts being in contact with the l ine
(bail arm, line roller, edge of the spool and all rings)
must always be smooth and free from damage.

After fishin g, e spe cial ly a fte r bottom fishing, the
fron t piece of th e line should be ch ecke d. If it is
roughened up, you have to cut it off. At home, you
should wind the cut off piece round your hand and
cut it several times. If you l eave it on site, animals
and human
being s could
get caug ht up
in the line and
could be inj u­red or even kil­led.

After fishin g in
salt water, the
line must be
properly rinsed with fresh water. The salt c r y s t a l s
destroy the line.

Due to the inf lue nce of light, air, water, the load
during cast and drill as well as over-expansion, the
line se asons. In most c ases, the line has l ost 50
percent of i ts q ualities a fter one a vera ge fish ing
y e a r. Thus, a new fishing season should only be
started with a new line.

The leader, also called "pre-line”, is the connection
between the main line and the hook.

The leader must always have a lower load bearing
capacity than the main line. So it is guaranteed that
in the case of an overload, only the leader and not
the main line will tear.

Fishing with weaker leaders is fish and environmen­tally friendly. Environmentally friendly as only a small
piece o f nylo n remains in nature if the leaderline
tears and fish friendly as the hooked fish is only left
with a small piece of line."

There are different leader designs and lengths. T h e
normal, mon ofil leade rs to which the sin gle hook
for catching non-predacious fish is attached are 40
to 70 cm long. Leaders for catching predatory fish
are in most cases made of fine, plastic-coated steel
fibres that cannot be damaged or bitten through by
the fish. These steel leaders are available from 15
cm to 1 m. For catching sharks, steel leaders up to
a length of 9.65 m are used.

All conne ctio ns are esta blished usin g knots or a
SIMPL (easy).
The knot is the weakest link in the chain. A s i m p l e
knot in the line, for example, reduces the load bea­ring capacity by up to 50 percent.

There are four different kinds of knots:

1. Knots for compactly linking two line ends.

One of these knots is called "double blood knot”.
And although i t reduces the load bearing capacit y
by 10 to 15 percent, it is to this day the best knot for
connecting two lines.

The double blood knot is often used in surf fishing
where the mai n li ne i s co nnected with the shock
leader.

2. Knots for secure ly conn ecting th e li ne with an
eye like swivel, artificial fly and eyed hook.

The eye and the line are often connected using a
half, locked blood knot.

This knot reduces the load bearing capacity by 15
percent.

A secure connect ion without reduction of the load
bearing capacity is established by the knots shown
in the two drawings.

None of th e two kno ts did res ult in a lo ss of the
load bearing capacity; in tests, the line always only
tore in the free part.

3. Knots for tying a loop.
The mo re tu rns the loop has, the higher the load

bearing capacity is. If you have 5 turns, this results
in alm ost 100 pe rcent. The pro babi lity of the line
tearing is then the same in the free part of the line
as at the knot.

4. Knots for connection the line with a shaft and/or
spade end hooks.

The figures sho w the ideal shaft knot for connec­ting spade end hooks.

Using this knot, the load bearin g ca pacity is only
reduced by 5 percent. This is an acceptable value.

Anoth er si mple hel p for connecting lines and
hooks, swivels or lines with each other is the
SIMPL. Apart from
the s impl e hand­ling, the SI MPL
maintains 100 per­cent of the knot’s
load bearing capa­city as a knot in the usual sense is not attached.

Hooks

In many countries, people still fish without rod and
reel or other accessor ies. Line and hook are,
h o w e v e r, indispensable. The first fishing hooks, so-

called ratchet hooks or toggle hooks, have already
been produc ed several 1000 yea rs ago. The rat­chet hooks were r eplaced by the bent fish hoo k.
These hooks are still used today.

The line can be fastened at an eye or a plate using
d i fferent knots or the SIMPL, at an eyed hook using
a half, lo cked blo od knot, at a spa de end hook
using a special hook knot.

Depending on the kind of fishing, there are diff e r e n t
hook size s a nd forms . Th e si ze scale goes from
10/0 to 28.
For fresh water, the following rule applies: The hig­her the hook n umber, th e sm aller the hook. T h e

hook gets, however, larger if
the number is higher if there
is a /0 behind the number
(4/0 is larger than 3/0).

When it co mes to the h ook
form s, there are the follo­wing differences:
The most popular forms are
the Limerick form and the
round bend hook . Ve r s i o n s
of the simple fish hoo k are
the b arbless hook a nd the
hook with jigge red poin t
used f or fishing to control
and contain certain species.

Apart from that, there are
twin, treble and quad hooks.
They mu st not be u sed for
fishing no n-pred acious fish
but ar e mainly use d toget­her with art ific ial baits and
when fishing predacious
fish.

So that the h ook point is always sharp, it sho uld
regularly be re-grinded using a grinding stone.
To d a y, fish hooks are made of fine ste el an d are
thus especially thin-w ired. In order to prote ct the
hook against rust, it is burnished, nickel or gold pla­ted.

To d a y, particularly high-quality hooks are produced
of so -called carbon st eel. So that the point s are
particularly fine an d sharp, th ese ho oks a re cut
using a lase r. In addition to the usual te mpering
procedures hea tin g and quenching, the ho ok is
moreover tempered in chemical baths.

Tips and tricks for fishing

Useful things about lines, h o o k s, fl o ats and leads

Double blood knot

Half locked blood knot

Correct winding up
of the line onto the
reel

Correct chopping
of the used line

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

1.

2.

3.

4.

Normal loop knot

Loop knot with safety loop

1.

2.

3.

4.

Filling of the spool

Too much Too little

Correct

Ratchet hook

Swivel

Hook

Main line

Leader

Limerick hook

Round bend hook

Hook wi th jigger ed
point/barbless hook

treble hook

1

2

3

4

5

6

1. Leader,

2. Hook point,

3. Barb,

4. Small plate/eye,

5. Hook shank,

6. Hook bend

Floats

The bite indicator enables the fisherman to hear or
see when the fish bites.

The most famous b ite indicator is the float. A p a r t
from indicating the bi te, the float often serves for
offering the bait in the corresponding water depth.
The standard float consists of body, antenna, float
rings o r floa t rub bers – and a so-cal led pilot. T h e
struc tur e an d the antenna body depe nds on the
nature of the water and the fish sp ecies to be fis­hed.

There are many materials of which floats are pro ­duced – from co rk and balsa w ood to porc upine
bristles and plastic.

There are two possibilities for assembling the float
to the line: the fixed and the sliding assembly.

In the fixed ass embly, the float is clampe d to the
line using so-called float rubb ers. There is, howe ­v e r, always the possibility to move the float on the
line.

For floa t fishing,
the float m ust be
balan ced accor­d i n g l y. You attac h
so ma ny lea d
shots or olives to
the line so that you
can only see the
pilot when using
floats with pilots or
only the upper part
of the antenn a
when using floa ts
with antennae.

When using the fixed assembly, the maximum
depth for fishing is determined by the length of the
rod.

The sliding method, however, allows for fishing in
all water depths.

When using the slidin g metho d, the float move s
free ly on the li ne, o nly co nne cte d with rin gs.
Towards the rod, the float is stopped by a stopper,

towards the hook by the
swivel at the latest.

Import ant acces sor ies for
floats th at a re assembled
in a sliding way are glass
or plastic beads as well as
different stoppers.

You should al ways add a
glass b ead bet ween float
and st opper. Its reliab ly
prevents the stopper from
getti ng caught in the sli­ding ring of the float.

You can produce the stopper knot on your own or
use textile or rubber stoppers industrially marketed
that fulf il th eir
task perfectly.

As texti le stop­pers are very
fine, you can
mount several at
the same time; if
an old stopp er is worn out, it can be rep laced
without disassembling the float.

When using the sliding method, you diff e r e n t i a t e
between the following methods:

1. The conventional method

2. The passing method

3. The English method
Method 2 and 3 have gained acce ptance as they
prevent the line from wrapping the antenna.

An interesting development on the float market is
the luminous float that is equipped with a light-emit­ting diode and is especially popular amongst night
fishermen (eel, zander, sheatfish, carp, etc.).

Snaplight s are also counted among luminous flo­ats. Here, two chemicals are mixed with each other
by ben ding the p lastic bod y and so start lighting.
The snaplight is assembled to the float antenna or
the tip of the rod.

Leads
The lead is necessary in order to

1. balance the float,

2. keep the bait at the desired place,

3. increase the casting weight so that the bait can
be cast.
In fishing, different leads are used.

Lead shot/clamp lead

This lead, available from 0.05 to

2.5 gram is mainl y used to
balance floats with a load be a­ring capacity up to 10 g. A s
good lead shot is very soft, you
can clamp it onto the line using
your fingers. Especially soft lead come from Great
Britain – the British have their own d enominations
for their lead shot sizes.

Wrapping lead

Wrapping leads are s mall lead
plates about as thick as pape r
that can be cut to the desired size
and be clamped onto the line.
This lead is especially suitable for
balancing even very small floats.
Using these longish, thin lead
strips, there are no misbites. The
fish may, however, mistake the clamped lead shot
for a hemp grain.

Drop lead

This l ead is – as all following
leads – a sliding lead, that means
that the lead is able to move free­ly on the line to the position of the
stopper (swivel or knot). Like the
lead shot, it is used for balancing
floats. D rop leads are ava ilable
from 0.25 to 8 gram.

When beadin g the lead, you ha ve to mak e su re
that the heavier part always p oints in the direction
of the hook. Otherwise, it results in rollovers when
casting what could lead to a twisting of the line.

Lead olive or ball lead

These sliding leads that are formed like an olive or
a ball are used for balancing e specially he avy flo­ats; they are used
in bottom fishing.
In order to protect
the kn ot, sliding
leads bein g hea­vier than 10 gram
should a lways be
assemble d w ith
stopper or bead.

Coffin lead

These leads having a form that
is similar to a coffin are availa­ble from 15 to 150 gram. Coff i n
leads prove of value in bottom
fishing when it depen ds on
keeping the bait securely at its
place. The large bearing surfa­ce prevent s the lead from sin­king into the subsurface.

Bar or Catherine lead

Using this lead, it is possible to sub­sequently insert different weights.

During the assembly, the line is first
of all inserted in the slot of the ba r
and then in the slot of the lead.
Then, bar and lead are stuck toget­her and t he parts are rotated b y
some degrees against each other. It
is import ant that the broad part of th e conical bar
points at the swivel. If the lead is assembled in the
opposite direction, the bar falls out of the lead alre­ady after only a few casts. The body of the bar lead
has the form of an olive or a coffin.

Casting lead

The casting lead having the
form of a pear and a cas t-in
swivel or wire eye at the end of
the lead body is the lead that is
most often used in bo ttom fis­hing, both, in fresh and i n salt
w a t e r. Casti ng l eads ha ve
excellent aerodyna mics. A n o t­her advantage: the large eye of
the wire or the swivel letting the
line pass unhinderedly after the
bite when used as sliding lead.
So that the lead cannot get
stuck on the knot, a glass bead is pre-assembled.

Spike lead

This version of the casting
lead is used in surf fishing.
In the sandy bot tom, the
spikes keep the bait secu­rely at its pl ace. In addi­tion, they are so flexible
that they can also be bend
up again during reeling.

Stand-up lead

When fishing in stagnan t water, this an d o ther
leads featuring buoyan cy b odies ha ve prove n of
value . It pre vents the bait
from bei ng drawn into t he
muddy subsu rfa ce. Even if
the lead sink s into the mud ,
the line c an still pass f reely.
These leads a re also perf ect
for fishing in heavi ly stre a­ming water. The bait is able to
move just ov er the bottom of
the stream.

The carp / anti-tangle lead

Another very famous lead that is reliably pre­venting a rollover of the l eader is the carp /
anti-tan gle lead. The lon g, pre -asse mbled
sliding tube reliably prevents the hook or the
leade r fr om getti ng stuck in the main line
during casting.

Small bell, silver paper

A bite indicator for bottom fishing without
float that is both, simple and reasonable
is a smal l bell that is attached to the tip
of the rod or to the line. Upo n the sligh­test tug of the fis h at the ba it, the bell
signal resounds.
Even more simple and as effective is a strip
of silve r pa per that is wrapped ar ound the
line between the first and the second ring of
the rod. If the fish pulls
at the line, he pulls the
silver paper with it.

Pilot

Antenna

Body

Keel

Passing eye

Stagnant water float

Moving water float

Fixed assembly

1.
Conventional
method

2. Passing
method

3.

English
method
(Waggler)

Lead

wrongly

Lead

correctly

Tips and tricks for fishing

Useful things about lines, h o o k s, fl o ats and leads

© Reprint and publication in extracts only
with permission of the HoSpo-Verlag,
51674 Wiehl

- GERMANY -

C AU T I O N

!

Keep hooks and small parts away
from children and pets. These arti­cles may only be used under gui­dance of adults.

S NA P L I G H T S

According to the directive 1999 /
4545 EG, this product
has been classified as being safe.

Safety data sheet
91 / 155 / EWG

GB