Brother Innov-is NS80e User's Guide

Operation Manual

Sewing Machine

Product Code: 888-M50/M60/M62/M63

Be sure to read this document before using the machine.
We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.

INTRODUCTION

• This machine is approved for use in the country of
purchase only.

Thank you for purchasing this machine. Before using this
machine, carefully read the “IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS”, and then study this manual for the
correct operation of the various functions.
In addition, after you have finished reading this manual,
store it where it can quickly be accessed for future
reference.

IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS

Please read these safety instructions before attempting to
use the machine.

DANGER

- To reduce the risk of electrical shock

1Always unplug the machine from the electrical

outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in
this manual, or if you are leaving the machine
unattended.

WARNING

- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electrical shock, or
injury to persons.

2Always unplug the machine from the electrical

outlet when making any adjustments mentioned in
the instruction manual.

• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the
symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp the
plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not
pull on the cord.

• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
Do not use an extension cord.

• Always unplug your machine if there is a power
failure.

3Electrical Hazards:

• This machine should be connected to an AC power
source within the range indicated on the rating
label. Do not connect it to a DC power source or
converter. If you are not sure what kind of power
source you have, contact a qualified electrician.

4Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord

or plug, if it is not working properly, has been
dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit.
Return the machine to the nearest authorized
Brother dealer for examination, repair, electrical or
mechanical adjustment.

• While the machine is stored or in use if you notice
anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the
machine immediately and unplug the power cord.

• When transporting the machine, be sure to carry it
by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other part
may damage the machine or result in the machine
falling, which could cause injuries.

• When lifting the machine, be careful not to make
any sudden or careless movements, which may
cause a personal injury.

5Always keep your work area clear:

• Never operate the machine with any air openings
blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine
and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust,
and loose cloth.

• Do not store objects on the foot controller.

• Never drop or insert foreign objects in any opening.

• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are
being used or where oxygen is being administered.

• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as
a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord
or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire
or an electric shock.

• Do not place this machine on an unstable surface,
such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise the
machine may fall, resulting in injuries.

6Special care is required when sewing:

• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use
bent or damaged needles.

• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special
care is required around the machine needle.

• Switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to
turn it off when making any adjustments in the
needle area.

• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as
it could cause the needle to break.

• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and
follow careful instruction when free motion stitching
so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to
break.

1

7This machine is not a toy:

SAVE THESE

• Your close attention is necessary when the machine
is used by or near children.

• The plastic bag that this machine was supplied in
should be kept out of the reach of children or
disposed of. Never allow children to play with the
bag due to the danger of suffocation.

• Do not use outdoors.

8For a longer service life:

• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight
and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the
machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or
other hot objects.

• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the
case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can
damage the case and machine, and should never be
used.

• Always consult the Operation Manual when
replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser
feet, needle or other parts to assure correct
installation.

INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended

for household use.

FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES
EXCEPT CENELEC COUNTRIES

This appliance is not intended for use
by persons (including children) with
reduced physical, sensory or mental
capabilities, or lack of experience and
knowledge, unless they have been
given supervision or instruction
concerning use of the appliance by a
person responsible for their safety.
Children should be supervised to
ensure that they do not play with the
appliance.

9For repair or adjustment:

• If the light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by
an authorized Brother dealer.

• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is
required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the
back of the Operation Manual to inspect and adjust
the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please
consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

Use this machine only for its intended use as described
in the manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as
contained in this manual.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this
product are subject to change without notice.

For additional product information and updates, visit
our website at www.brother.com

FOR USERS IN CENELEC
COUNTRIES

This appliance can be used by children
aged from 8 years and above and
persons with reduced physical, sensory
or mental capabilities or lack of
experience and knowledge if they have
been given supervision or instruction
concerning use of the appliance in a
safe way and understand the hazards
involved. Children shall not play with
the appliance. Cleaning and user
maintenance shall not be made by
children without supervision.

2

FOR USERS IN THE UK,

EIRE, MALTA

AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse

approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the

mark, rating as marked on plug.

• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with

the fuse cover omitted.

• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the

plug supplied with this equipment, you should
contact your authorized Brother dealer to obtain the
correct lead.

Trademarks

App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc.
Android and Google Play are trademarks of Google, Inc.
Use of these trademarks are subject to Google Permissions.

3

CONTENTS

CONTENTS

Chapter 1 GETTING READY 5

Names of Machine Parts ....................................... 5

Included accessories .............................................................. 7

Optional accessories .............................................................. 8

Attaching the stitch pattern plate

(For models equipped with the stitch pattern plate) ................ 8

Turning the Machine On/Off................................ 9

LCD Operation ................................................... 10

Changing the Machine Settings........................... 11

Winding/Installing the Bobbin............................ 12

Winding the bobbin ............................................................. 12

Installing the bobbin............................................................. 14

Upper Threading ................................................ 15

Threading the upper thread .................................................. 15

Pulling up the bobbin thread ................................................ 18

Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations.................. 19

Replacing the Needle.......................................... 20

Checking the needle............................................................. 20

Replacing the needle............................................................ 20

Replacing the Presser Foot.................................. 21

Replacing the presser foot .................................................... 21

Removing and attaching the presser foot holder ................... 22

Chapter 2 SEWING BASICS 23

Sewing ................................................................ 23

Basic sewing ........................................................................ 23

Sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches .................................. 25

Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching............................ 25

Reinforcement priority.......................................................... 27

Setting the stitch width/stitch length ..................................... 27

Adjusting the thread tension............................... 27

Useful Sewing Tips ............................................. 28

Sewing Tips.......................................................................... 28

Sewing an even seam allowance.......................................... 29

Sewing Various Fabrics ........................................................ 30

Sewing decorative stitch patterns.......................................... 32

Chapter 4 APPENDIX 55

Care and Maintenance ....................................... 55

Restrictions on oiling........................................................... 55

Precautions on storing the machine ..................................... 55

Cleaning the race................................................................. 55

Troubleshooting ................................................. 57

Upper thread tightened up ................................................... 57

Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric................................ 57

Incorrect thread tension ....................................................... 58

Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed ..... 59

If the thread becomes tangled under the bobbin winder

seat...................................................................................... 61

List of symptoms.................................................................. 61

Error messages..................................................................... 65

Operation beeps.................................................................. 65

Index.................................................................. 66

Chapter 3 VARIOUS STITCHES 33

Stitch Chart ........................................................ 33

Utility stitches .................................................... 38

Overcasting Stitches............................................................. 38

Blind Hem Stitching ............................................................. 39

Buttonhole sewing................................................................ 40

Button sewing ...................................................................... 43

Zipper Insertion.................................................................... 44

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching.............................. 45

Other Stitching Applications................................................. 49

Making adjustments

(For 80/60/50 stitches models)........................... 54

4

Names of Machine Parts

a

b

c

d

e

f

g

h

k

l

m

j

i

n

o

Chapter 1

GETTING READY

Names of Machine Parts

■ Main parts

The appearance of the machine differs depending on the
model.

p

q

r

s

E Thread tension dial (page 27)
F Handwheel

Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to raise and
lower the needle to sew one stitch.

G Thread guide cover (page 13)
H Handle

Carry the machine by its handle when transporting.

I Presser foot lever

Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the
presser foot.

J Feed dog position switch

Use the feed dog position switch to raise and lower the feed
dogs. (page 48)

K Main power switch (page 9)
L Power supply jack (page 9)
M Foot controller (page 24)
N Foot controller jack (page 24)
O Air vent

The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to circulate.
Do not cover the air vent while the machine is being used.

■ Needle and presser foot section

i

a

h

1

GETTING READY

b

y

x

u

v

w

1 Bobbin winding thread guide and pretension disk

(page 13)

2 Thread guide (page 13)
3 Spool cap (page 12)
4 Spool pin (page 12)
5 Hole for extra spool pin

This holds an extra spool pin for sewing with the twin needle.
(page 52) This is not a hole for lubrication. Do not insert oil into
this hole.

6 Bobbin winder (page 12)
7 LCD (liquid crystal display) (page 10)
8 Operation keys (page 6)

9 Stitch pattern display window (page 23)

0 Stitch pattern selection dial (page 23)
A Operation buttons and sewing speed controller

B Flat bed attachment (page 7, 29)
C Thread cutter (page 17)
D Needle threader lever (page 17)

The operation keys differ depending on the model.

(Equipped on 16 stitches model)

(page 6)

t

g

f

e

1 Needle bar thread guide (page 16)
2 Needle plate (page 29)
3 Needle plate cover (page 14)
4 Bobbin cover/bobbin case (page 14, 56)
5 Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.

6 Presser foot

The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as
the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for
the selected stitch.

7 Presser foot holder (page 22)
8 Presser foot holder screw (page 22)
9 Buttonhole lever (page 42)

d

c

5

Names of Machine Parts

e

a

b

d

c

■ Operation buttons

b

a

cd e

1 “Start/Stop” button

Press the “Start/Stop” button to start or stop sewing.

2 Reverse stitch button

Press the reverse button to sew reverse or reinforcement
stitches depending on the selected stitch pattern.

3 Reinforcement stitch button

Press the reinforcement button to sew a single stitch
repeatedly and tie-off. (page 25)
For decorative stitches, press this button to end with a full
stitch instead of at a mid-point.
The LED beside the button automatically lights up while the
stitch is being sewn and goes off when sewing is finished. (For
models equipped with the LED)

4 Needle position button

Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle.
Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.

5 Sewing speed controller

Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.

■ Operation panel and operation keys

The appearance of the machine differs depending on the
model.

1 LCD (liquid crystal display)

Selected stitch pattern settings and messages are displayed.
(page 10)

2 Stitch length keys

Press the stitch length keys to adjust the stitch length.
(page 27)

3 Stitch width keys

Press the stitch width keys to adjust the stitch width. (page 27)

4 Needle mode selection key (single/twin)

(Equipped on 80/60/50 stitches models)

Press the needle mode selection key to use the twin needle.
Each press of this key switches between the twin needle mode
and the single needle mode. (page 52)

5 Automatic reverse/reinforcement key

Press the automatic reverse/reinforcement key to use the
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching function. (page 25)

6

Names of Machine Parts

Note

J

G

I

M

A

*2*1

N

Included accessories

Included accessories may differ from the table below depending on the machine model you purchased. For more details on
included accessories and their part codes of your machine, refer to the additional sheet “Included Accessories”.

Pull the top of the flat bed attachment to open the accessory compartment.

■ Included accessories

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

R

Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) Overcasting foot “G” Zipper foot “I” Blind stitch foot “R” Button fitting foot “M” Buttonhole foot “A”

7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

1

GETTING READY

Needle set
(A needle set of the two is included with this machine.)

12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.

Disc-shaped screwdriver Screwdriver (large) Extra spool pin Spool cap (large) Spool cap (medium)

18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23.

Spool net Bobbin case

*1

75/11 2 needles, 90/14 2 needles, 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)

*2

75/11 1 needle, 90/14 1 needle, 100/16 1 needle

• (For U.S.A. only) Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code 888-M50/M60/M62/M63. The product code is
mentioned on the machine rating plate.

(on machine)

Twin needle
2/11 needle

Foot controller Accessory bag Operation Manual Quick Reference Guide

Bobbin (4)
(One bobbin is on machine.)

Seam ripper Cleaning brush

(on machine)

Spool cap (small)

■ Accessories included depending on the model

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Monogramming foot “N” Eyelet punch Screwdriver (small) Stitch pattern plate Stitch pattern plate holder

7

Names of Machine Parts

Memo

Optional accessories

The following are available as optional accessories to be
purchased separately.

1. 2. 3.

4. 5. 6.

P

7. 8. 9.

10. 11.

• To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your
authorized Brother dealer or visit our site http://
s.brother/cpjah/.

• All specifications are correct at the time of printing.
Please be aware that some specifications may change
without notice.

• A variety of feet are available to enable different types of
stitching and finishes. Visit your nearest authorized
Brother dealer or our site http://s.brother/cpjah/

for a
complete listing of optional accessories available for
your machine.

• Always use accessories recommended for this
machine.

Attaching the stitch pattern plate
(For models equipped with the stitch pattern
plate)

The stitch pattern plate shows the stitches and the stitch
numbers. Attach the stitch pattern plate to the stitch pattern
plate holder, and then attach the stitch pattern plate holder to
the handle of the sewing machine as shown in the illustration
below.

No. Part Name

1. Quilting foot SA129 F005N:

2. Walking foot SA140 F033N:

3. Quilting guide SA132 F016N:

4. Side cutter “S” SA177 F054:

5. Adjustable zipper/

piping foot

6. Stitch guide foot
“P”

7. Non stick foot SA114 F007N:

8. Open toe foot SA186 F060:

9. 1/4" piecing foot SA125 F001N:

10. 1/4" piecing foot

with guide

11. Wide table SAWT5 WT15:

Americas Europe Others

SA161 F036N:

SA160 F035N:

SA185 F057:

Part Code

XC1948-052

XG6623-001

XC2215-052

XC3879-152

XC1970-052

XG6609-001

XC1949-052

XG6687-001

XC1944-052

XC7416-252

XG8750-001

F005N

F033N
F033CN

F016N
F016CN

F054
F054CN

F036N

F035N

F007N
F007CN

F060

F001N

F057

WT15AP
WT15CN

(For models equipped with the hard case)

When storing the machine, the stitch pattern plate can be
hung from the hard case.

8

Turning the Machine On/Off

WARNING

CAUTION

1

2

Turning the Machine On/Off

• Use only regular household electricity for the
power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the
machine.

• Make sure that the plugs on the power cord
are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet
and the power cord receptacle on the
machine. Otherwise, a fire or electric shock
may result.

• Do not insert the plug on the power cord into
an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.

• Turn the main power to OFF and remove the
plug in the following circumstances:

• When you are away from the machine

• After using the machine

• When the power fails during use

• When the machine does not operate correctly

due to a bad connection or a disconnection

• During electrical storms

•(For U.S.A. only)
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade
wider than the other). To reduce the risk of
electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a
polarized electrical outlet only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in the electrical
outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit,
contact a qualified electrician to install the
proper electrical outlet. Do not modify the
plug in any way.

Make sure that the machine is turned off (the main

a

power switch is set to “ ”), and then plug the power
cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the
machine.

Insert the plug of the power cord into a household

b

electrical outlet.

1

GETTING READY

• Use only the power cord included with this
machine.

• Do not use extension cords or multi-plug
adapters with any other appliances plugged
into them. Fire or electric shock may result.

• Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric
shock may result.

• When unplugging the machine, always turn
the main power to OFF first. Always grasp the
plug to remove it from the electrical outlet.
Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or
lead to fire or electric shock.

• Do not allow the power cord to be cut,
damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled,
twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy
objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to
heat. These things may damage the cord, or
cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug
is damaged, take the machine to your
authorized Brother dealer for repairs before
continuing use.

• Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to
be used for a long period of time. Otherwise, a
fire may result.

1 Power supply jack
2 Main power switch

Press the right side of the main power switch on the

c

right side of the machine to turn the machine on (set it
to “I”).

 The light for working area and LCD will light up

when the machine is turned on. The needle and the
feed dogs will make a sound when they move; this is
not a malfunction.

To turn off the machine, press the left side of the main

d

power switch (set it to “ ”).

9

LCD Operation

Memo

ba c d

f e

c d

f e

1 Stitch number
2 Presser foot

a

b

LCD Operation

When the machine is turned on, the LCD will light up and the following screen is displayed.

To change the displayed settings, use the operation keys and stitch pattern selection dial.

The LCD differs depending on the model.

No. Display Item Name Explanation Page

1 Presser foot Shows the symbol for the presser foot to be used. Before sewing, attach one of the

presser feet shown here.

Zigzag foot “J” Buttonhole foot “A”

21

Monogramming foot “N” Blind stitch foot “R”

Overcasting foot “G”

* The symbols for certain presser feet, such as zipper foot “I” and the quilting foot,

may not appear in the screen.

2 – Stitch number Shows the number of the currently selected stitch pattern. 33
3 Needle position setting Shows whether the needle is in the programmed raised or lowered position. In

4 Stitch length Shows the stitch length of the currently selected stitch pattern. 27

5 Stitch width Shows the stitch width of the currently selected stitch pattern. 27

6 Automatic reverse/

reinforcement stitching

addition, shows whether the single needle mode or twin needle mode is selected.
(The twin needle mode indicator appears only on models equipped with the needle
mode selection key.)

: Single needle/down position : Twin needle/down position

: Single needle/up position : Twin needle/up position

Shows the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is currently turned on. 25

11

• On models without the stitch number and the presser foot displayed in the LCD, the stitch number and presser foot are
shown in the stitch pattern display window.

10

Changing the Machine Settings

Memo

Memo

Memo

CAUTION

Changing the Machine Settings

■ Turning on/off the buzzer

The buzzer can be turned off.

■ Changing the needle stop position

The needle position when stitching is finished can be
changed from the down position to the up position.

Press the needle position button and hold for

a

approximately 3 seconds.

 The machine beeps twice, and the needle stop

position changes to the up position.

Press and hold “–” stitch width key while turning on

a

the machine.

 The machine starts up with no beep, and the buzzer

is turned off.

• When the same operation is performed, the machine
beeps once, and the buzzer is turned on.

• When the needle stop position or initial needle
position is changed, the machine will beep,
even if the buzzer has been turned off.

1

GETTING READY

• When the same operation is performed, the machine
beeps once, and the needle stop position changes to
the down position.

• When this setting is changed, the machine beeps, even
if the buzzer is turned off.

■ Changing the initial needle position (For 80/
60/50 stitches models)

The stitch automatically selected when the machine is
turned on can be changed from “1 Straight stitch (Left)” to
“3 Straight stitch (Middle)”.

Press and hold the “–” stitch length key while turning

a

on the machine.

 The machine beeps once, and the initial needle

position changes to “3 Straight stitch (Middle)”.

• When the same operation is performed, the machine
beeps once, and the initial needle position changes to
“1 Straight stitch (Left)”.

• When this setting is changed, the machine beeps, even
if the buzzer is turned off.

11

Winding/Installing the Bobbin

CAUTION

Memo

2

1

CAUTION

Memo

1 Spool cap (small)
2 Spool (cross-wound

thread)

3 Space

2

1

3

Winding/Installing the Bobbin

• Only use the plastic bobbin that comes with

this machine or bobbins of the same type
(SA156/SFB: XA5539-151/SFB). The bobbin's
height is 11.5 mm (approx. 7/16 inch). Using
other bobbins may cause damage to the
machine. SA156 is Class 15 type bobbin.

• Bobbins previously manufactured may not

have the “b” mark on the bobbin. However,
they can be used with this machine if they are
the same type (SA156/SFB: XA5539-151/SFB).

Winding the bobbin

This section describes how to wind thread onto a bobbin.

Remove the spool cap and place the spool of thread for

b

the bobbin onto the spool pin.

Slide the spool onto the spool pin so that the thread
unwinds to the front from the bottom. Otherwise the
thread may become tangled around the spool pin.

1

1 The thread unwinds to the front from the bottom.

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

c

Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as
shown, with the rounded side on the left.

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so that the

a

notch in the bobbin aligns with the spring on the shaft,
and then slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right until
it snaps into place.

1 Notch in the

bobbin

2 Bobbin winder

shaft spring

• Checking the installation orientation of the bobbin will
be helpful in later procedures. By placing the bobbin
into the bobbin case in the same orientation that it was
on the bobbin winder shaft, the bobbin can be installed
with the correct winding direction of the bobbin thread.

• If the spool or the spool cap is not installed
correctly, the thread may become tangled
around the spool pin, causing the needle to
break.

• Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing
you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is too
small for the spool being used, the thread may
catch on the slit in the spool or the machine
may be damaged.
For more information, refer to “Memo” on
page 12.

• When using the spool as shown below, use the small
spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap
and the spool.

The “b” mark on one side of the bobbin included with
this machine can be used as a reference.

12

• When using thread that winds off quickly, such as
transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the
spool net over the spool before placing the spool of
thread onto the spool pin.
If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the
spool.

Winding/Installing the Bobbin

Note

Note

CAUTION

1

2

3

Memo

Note

CAUTION

Pass the thread under the thread guide, then under the

d

thread guide cover and to the front.

a

1 Thread guide
2 Thread guide cover

Pass the thread under the hook on the bobbin winding

e

thread guide, and then wind it counterclockwise under
the pretension disk.

1 Bobbin winding thread guide
2 Pretension disk
3 Pull it in as far as possible

b

Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the bobbin

g

winding speed. Slide the controller to the right to
increase the speed; slide it to the left to reduce the
speed.

• We recommend winding stretch thread, such as
transparent nylon thread, at a low speed since the
thread may stretch.

Turn on the machine.

h

Press the “Start/Stop” button once to start winding the

i

bobbin.
When the foot controller is plugged in, press down on
the foot controller.

1

GETTING READY

• Make sure that the thread is passed under the
pretension disk.

Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin 5 or 6

f

times, pass the thread through the guide slit in the
bobbin winder seat, and then pull the thread to cut it.

a

1 Guide slit in bobbin winder seat

(with built-in cutter)

• Be sure to wind the thread clockwise around the
bobbin, otherwise the thread will become wrapped
around the bobbin winder shaft.

• Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the
bobbin is wound without cutting the thread
using the cutter built into the guide slit in the
bobbin winder seat, the thread may become
tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend
or break when the bobbin thread starts to run
out.

• When winding transparent nylon thread on the bobbin,
stop bobbin winding when the bobbin is 1/2 to 2/3 full. If
the bobbin was fully wound with transparent nylon
thread, it may not be wound neatly, or sewing
performance may suffer. In addition, extreme pressure
may be applied to the bobbin, it may not be possible to
remove the bobbin from the bobbin winder shaft, or the
bobbin may break.

When the bobbin winding becomes slow, press the

j

“Start/Stop” button once to stop the machine.
When the foot controller is plugged in, remove your
foot from the foot controller.

• When the bobbin winding becomes slow, stop
the machine, otherwise the machine may be
damaged.

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left

k

until it snaps into place, and then remove the bobbin.

13

Winding/Installing the Bobbin

Memo

CAUTION

Memo

CAUTION

Slide the sewing speed controller to desired sewing

l

speed position.

Remove the spool for the bobbin thread from the spool

m

pin.

Installing the bobbin

Install the bobbin wound with thread.
You can begin sewing immediately without pulling up the
bobbin thread by simply inserting the bobbin in the bobbin
case and guiding the thread through the slit in the needle
plate cover.

• If the threads will be pulled to create gathers or the
thread at the beginning of sewing will be finished, for
example, when free motion quilting, first pull up the
bobbin thread.
For details, refer to “Pulling up the bobbin thread” on
page 18.

Place the bobbin in the bobbin case so that the thread

f

unwinds to the left.

• For the correct winding direction of the bobbin thread,
be sure to place the bobbin into the bobbin case in the
same orientation that it was on the bobbin winder shaft.

The “b” mark on one side of the bobbin included with
this machine can be used as a reference.

• Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound
with thread, otherwise the needle may break
or the thread tension will be incorrect.

• Before inserting or changing the bobbin, be
sure to turn off the machine, otherwise injuries
may occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any
other button is pressed and the machine starts
operating.

Turn on the machine.

a

Press (Needle position button) once or twice to

b

raise the needle.

Turn off the machine.

c

Raise the presser foot lever.

d

Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right and remove

e

the bobbin cover.

Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right hand

g

(1), and then guide the end of the thread around the
tab of the needle plate cover with your left hand (2).

1 Tab

• Be sure to hold down the bobbin with your
finger and unwind the bobbin thread
correctly, otherwise the thread may break or
the thread tension will be incorrect.

14

While lightly holding down the bobbin with your right

Memo

Memo

Memo

CAUTION

Note

h

hand (1), guide the thread through the slit in the
needle plate cover (2) and lightly pull it with your left
hand (3).

Upper Threading

Upper Threading

1

• By guiding the thread around the tab of the needle plate

cover, passing the thread as shown by 2 in this
illustration, then lightly pulling the thread at 3, the
thread will enter the tension spring of the bobbin case to
apply the appropriate tension to the bobbin thread
during sewing.

While lightly holding down the bobbin with your right

i

hand (1), continue guiding the thread through the slit
with your left hand (2). Then, cut the thread with the
cutter (3).

• When threading the upper thread, carefully

follow the instructions. If the upper threading
is not correct, the thread may become tangled
or the needle may bend or break.

• Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.

• Use the needle and the thread in the correct

combination. (page 19)

Threading the upper thread

 When threading the upper thread, carefully follow

the instructions.

GETTING READY

• Be sure to complete the bobbin threading correctly
according to these instructions. If the thread is simply
placed in the slit in the needle plate cover, the bobbin
thread will not be correctly threaded, resulting in poor
sewing performance or incorrect thread tension.

Reattach the bobbin cover.

j

Insert the tab of the bobbin cover into the notch of the
needle plate cover, and then lightly press down on the
right side.

• You can begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin
thread. If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before
starting to sew, pull up the thread according to the
procedure in “Pulling up the bobbin thread” on page 18.

Turn on the machine.

a

Raise the presser foot lever to raise the presser foot.

b

• If the presser foot is not raised, the machine cannot be
threaded.

15

Upper Threading

CAUTION

CAUTION

1

Press (Needle position button) once or twice to

c

raise the needle.

The needle is correctly raised when the mark on the



handwheel is at the top, as shown below. Check the

handwheel and, if this mark is not at this position, press
(Needle position button) until it is.

Turn off the machine.

d

• Before threading the needle, be sure to turn off
the machine, otherwise injuries may occur if
the “Start/Stop” button or any other button is
pressed, causing the machine to start
operating.

Pass the thread under the thread guide, then under the

g

thread guide cover and to the front.

Hold the thread with your right hand so that there is no
slack in the thread that is pulled out, and then pass the
thread under the thread guide cover with your left hand.

a

1 Thread guide
2 Thread guide cover

Pass the thread through the thread channel in the order

h

shown below.

b

Remove the spool cap and place the spool of thread

e

onto the spool pin.

Slide the spool onto the spool pin so that the thread
unwinds to the front from the bottom. Otherwise the
thread may become tangled around the spool pin.

1 The thread unwinds to the front from the bottom.

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

f

Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as
shown, with the rounded side on the left.

• Choose a spool cap that best fits the size of
spool being used. For more information
regarding the choice of spool caps for your
thread choice, refer to “Memo” on page 12.

Make sure that the thread is passed into the thread

i

take-up lever as shown below.

Slide the thread behind the needle bar thread guide.

j

The thread can easily be slid behind the needle bar
thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand,
then feeding the thread with your right hand, as shown.
Make sure that the thread is passed through to the left of
the tab of the needle bar thread guide.

1 Needle bar thread

2

1

guide

2 Tab

• If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned
correctly, the thread may become tangled
around the spool pin or the needle may break.

16

Upper Threading

Note

Note

Check that the needle and thread are compatible with

k

the needle threader. If they are compatible, continue
with the next step.

• The needle threader can be used with machine
needles 75/11 through 100/16.

• The needle threader cannot be used with the wing
needle or the twin needle.

• When thread such as transparent nylon
monofilament or specialty threads are used, it is not
recommended to use the needle threader.

• If the needle threader cannot be used, insert the
thread through the eye of the needle from front to
back by hand. At this time, be sure that the machine
has been turned off as described in step

Pull the end of the thread, which has been passed

l

through the needle bar thread guide, to the left, pass
the thread under the notch, and then firmly pull the
thread to fully insert it from front to back into the slit
of the thread guide disk (marked “7”).

d.

Lower the presser foot lever to lower the presser foot.

n

Lower the needle threader lever on the left side of the

o

machine as much as possible to make the hook turn.

After the threader thread guide disk is lowered (1), the
hook turns (2).

1

2

1

GETTING READY

2

1

1 Notch of the threader thread guide
2 Threader thread guide disk

Cut the thread with the thread cutter on the left side of

m

the machine.

• If the thread is pulled through and cannot be cut
correctly, lower the presser foot lever so that the thread
is held in place before cutting the thread. If this
operation is performed, proceed to step

• When using thread that quickly winds off the spool,
such as metallic thread, it may be difficult to thread the
needle if the thread is cut.
Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter, pull out
about 8 cm (approx. 3 inches) of thread after passing it
through the threader thread guide disk (marked “7”).

o.

3

1 Needle threader lever
2 Needle
3 Hook

• If the needle is not raised to it's highest position, the
needle threader cannot thread the needle. Turn
handwheel counterclockwise until the needle is at its
highest position. The needle is correctly raised when the
mark on the handwheel is at the top, as shown under

c on page 15.

step

Raise the needle threader lever slowly.

p

Carefully pull the end of thread that was passed

q

through the eye of the needle.

If the needle was not completely threaded, but a loop in
the thread was formed in the eye of the needle, carefully
pull the loop through the eye of the needle to pull out
the end of the thread.

17

Upper Threading

Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the thread

r

through and under the presser foot, and then pull out
about 5 cm (approx. 2 inches) of thread toward the
rear of the machine.

Turn on the machine.

s

Pulling up the bobbin thread

If the threads will be pulled to create gathers or the thread at
the beginning of sewing will be finished, for example, when
free motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread.

Refer to “Threading the upper thread” on page 15 to

a

thread the machine with the upper thread and thread
the needle.

Follow steps a to f “Installing the bobbin” on

b

page 14 for installing the bobbin and to insert the
bobbin into the bobbin case.

Pull up the bobbin thread, pass it under the presser

g

foot and pull it about 10 cm (4 inches) toward the back
of the machine, making it even with the upper thread.

Reattach the bobbin cover.

h

Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.

c

Do not cut the thread with the cutter, otherwise it will
be difficult to pull up the bobbin thread.

Turn on the machine.

d

While lightly holding the upper thread with your left

e

hand, press (Needle position button) twice to lower

and then raise the needle.

 The bobbin thread is looped around the upper thread

and can be pulled up.

Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull out the

f

end of the bobbin thread.

18

Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations

CAUTION

Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations

• Needles that can be used with this machine: Home sewing machine needles (size 65/9 - 100/16)
* The larger the number, the larger the needle. As the numbers decrease, the needles get finer.

• Thread that can be used with this machine: 30 - 90 weight
* Never use thread of 20 weight or lower. It may cause machine to malfunction.
* The smaller the number, the heavier the thread. As the numbers increase, the thread gets finer.

• The machine needle and thread that should be used depends on the type and thickness of the fabric. Refer to
the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

- The combinations shown in the table provide a general guideline. Be sure to sew trial stitches on the actual number of

layers and type of fabric to be used in your project.

- The machine needles are consumables. For safety and best results, we recommend replacing the needle regularly. For

details on when to replace the needle, refer to “Checking the needle” on page 20.

• In principle, use a fine needle and thread with lightweight fabrics, and a larger needle and heavier thread with
heavyweight fabrics.

• Select a stitch appropriate for the fabric, and then adjust the stitch length. When sewing lightweight fabrics,
make the stitch length finer (shorter). When sewing heavyweight fabrics, make the stitch length coarser
(longer). (page 27)
When sewing stretch fabrics, refer to “Sewing stretch fabrics” on page 31.

1

GETTING READY

Fabric Type/Application

Lightweight
fabrics

Medium weight
fabrics

Heavyweight
fabrics

Stretch fabrics
(knit fabrics, etc.)

For top-stitching

Lawn, georgette, challis, organdy,
crepe, chiffon, voile, gauze, tulle,
lining, etc.

Broadcloth, taffeta, gabardine,
flannel, seersucker, double gauze,
linen, terry cloth, waffle weave,
sheeting, poplin, cotton twill, satin,
quilting cotton, etc.

Denim (12 ounces or more), canvas,
etc.

Denim (12 ounces or more), canvas,
tweed, corduroy, velour, melton
wool, vinyl-coated fabric, etc.

Jersey, tricot, T-shirt fabric, fleece,
interlock, etc.

Cotton thread,

Cotton thread,

Cotton thread

Cotton thread,

Polyester thread,

Cotton thread,

Polyester thread,

Cotton thread

Thread

Type Weight

Polyester

thread

Silk thread

Polyester

thread

Silk thread

Polyester

thread,

Polyester

thread

Silk thread

Silk thread

60 - 90

50 - 80

60 - 90

50 - 60

30 100/16

60

30 - 50

50

30 90/14 - 100/16

50 - 60 75/11 - 90/14

■ Transparent nylon thread

Use a home sewing machine topstitching needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.

Size of needle

65/9 - 75/11

75/11 - 90/14

90/14 - 100/16

Ball point needle

75/11 - 90/14

Stitch length

mm (inch)

Fine stitches

1.8-2.5

(1/16-3/32)

Regular stitches

2.0-3.0

(1/16-1/8)

Coarse stitches

2.5-4.0

(3/32-3/16)

Setting appropriate for

the fabric thickness

Setting appropriate for

the fabric thickness

■ Sewing decorative stitch patterns (needles and threads)

When sewing lightweight, medium weight or stretch fabrics, use a ball point needle (gold colored) 90/14. When sewing
heavyweight fabrics, use a home sewing machine needle 90/14.
In addition, #50 to #60 thread should be used.

• The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the preceding table. If the
combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing heavy fabrics (such
as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the
stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

19

Replacing the Needle

CAUTION

Note

1 2

c

d

e

CAUTION

CAUTION

1

Replacing the Needle

• Only use recommended home sewing machine
needles. Use of any other needle may bend the
needle or damage the machine.

• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

Checking the needle

Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a
flat surface and check that the distance between the needle
and the flat surface is even.

1 Flat side
2 Needle type marking
3 Flat surface
4 Even
5 Not even

Turn off the machine.

c

• Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off
the machine, otherwise injuries may occur if
the “Start/Stop” button or any other button is
pressed and the machine starts operating.

Hold the needle with your left hand, and then use a

d

screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw toward
you (counterclockwise) to remove the needle.

• Do not apply a strong force when loosening or
tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain
parts of the machine may be damaged.

With the flat side of the needle toward the rear of the

e

machine, insert the new needle until it touches the
needle stopper. Using the screwdriver, tighten the
needle clamp screw by turning it clockwise.

• The machine needles are consumables. Replace the
needle in cases such as those described below.

- If an unusual sound is produced when the needle

enters the fabric. (The tip of the needle may be broken
or dull.)

- If stitches are skipped. (The needle may be bent.)

- Generally, after completing one project, such as a

piece of clothing.

Replacing the needle

Use the screwdriver and a new needle that has been
determined to be straight according to the instructions in
“Checking the needle” on page 20.

Press (Needle position button) once or twice to

a

raise the needle.

Place fabric or paper under the presser foot to cover

b

the hole in the needle plate to prevent the needle from
falling into the machine.

1 Needle stopper

• Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the
needle stopper and securely tighten the needle
clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise
the needle may break or damage may result.

Turn on the machine.

f

20

Replacing the Presser Foot

CAUTION

Note

CAUTION

/

a

b

J

1

4

2

3

a

b

c

d

• Use the appropriate presser foot for the type
of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the
needle may hit the presser foot, causing the
needle to bend or break. For details on the
presser foot that should be used with the
selected stitch, refer to “Stitch Chart” on
page 33.

• Only use presser feet designed specifically for
this machine. Use of any other presser foot
may result in injuries or damage to the
machine.

• When a stitch is selected, the symbol for the presser
foot that should be used is shown in the LCD or the
stitch pattern display window. Check that the
appropriate presser foot is attached before starting to
sew. If the wrong presser foot is attached, attach the
appropriate presser foot.
The position where the symbol for the presser foot is
shown differs depending on the model.

Replacing the Presser Foot

Raise the presser foot lever.

c

Press the black button at the back of the presser foot

d

holder in order to remove the presser foot.

1 Black button
2 Presser foot holder

Place the appropriate presser foot below the presser

e

foot holder so that the presser foot pin is aligned with
the notch in the presser foot holder.

1 Presser foot holder
2 Notch in the presser foot

holder

3 Presser foot pin
4 Presser foot type

Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser

f

foot pin snaps into the notch in the presser foot holder.

1

GETTING READY

* The symbols for certain presser feet, such as zipper foot “I”

and the quilting foot, may not appear in the screen.

Replacing the presser foot

Press (Needle position button) once or twice to

a

raise the needle.

Turn off the machine.

b

• Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to
turn off the machine, otherwise injuries may
occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any other
button is pressed and the machine starts
operating.

1 Presser foot lever
2 Presser foot holder
3 Notch in the presser foot holder
4 Presser foot pin

 The presser foot is attached.

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the presser

g

foot is securely attached.

Turn on the machine.

h

21

Replacing the Presser Foot

a

b

CAUTION

Removing and attaching the presser foot
holder

Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the machine or
when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser
foot holder, such as the walking foot and quilting foot.

■ Removing the presser foot holder

Turn off the machine.

a

Remove the presser foot.

b

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” on
page 21.

Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot holder

c

screw.

Turn the screw toward the back of the machine
(counterclockwise).

• The presser foot holder screw can also be loosened
or tightened with the disc-shaped screwdriver.

Hold the presser foot holder in place with your right

d

hand, and then tighten the screw using the screwdriver
in your left hand.

Turn the screw toward you (clockwise).

• Be sure to securely tighten the presser foot
holder screw, otherwise the presser foot
holder may fall off and the needle may strike
it, causing the needle to bend or break.

■ Attaching the presser foot holder

Turn off the machine.

a

Raise the presser foot lever.

b

Align the notch in the presser foot holder with the

c

screw.

1 Screw
2 Notch in presser foot

holder

22

Sewing

CAUTION

Note

Chapter 2

SEWING BASICS

Sewing

• While the machine is in operation, pay special
attention to the needle location. In addition,
keep your hands away from all moving parts
such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise
injuries may occur.

• Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while
sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the
needle may break.

• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

• Make sure that the needle does not strike
basting pins, otherwise the needle may break
or bend.

Basic sewing

• First, perform a trial sewing, using a piece of fabric and
thread that are the same as those used for your project.

Prepare the appropriate needle and thread for the type

a

of fabric. (page 19)

If necessary, replace the needle. (page 20)

Wind thread onto a bobbin, and then install it into the

b

machine. (page 12)

Thread the upper thread. (page 15)

c

Turn the stitch pattern selection dial to select a stitch.

d

The position where the stitch number is shown differs
depending on the model.

2

SEWING BASICS

• For details on the built-in stitch patterns, refer to
“Stitch Chart” on page 33.

• If necessary, change the stitch width or stitch length.
(page 27)

• For details on the LCD viewing, refer to “LCD
Operation” on page 10.

23

Sewing

CAUTION

a

b

Memo

Memo

Check the symbol for the presser foot shown in the

e

LCD or stitch pattern display window, and then attach
the appropriate presser foot. Attach zigzag foot “J” in
this procedure. (It is on the machine when purchased.)

• For details on changing the presser foot, refer to
“Replacing the Presser Foot” on page 21.

• Always use the appropriate presser foot. If the
wrong presser foot is used, the needle may
strike the presser foot and bend or break,
possibly resulting in injury.
Refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33 for presser
foot recommendations.

Press the “Start/Stop” button to start sewing. (When

i

the foot controller is plugged in, slowly press down on
the foot controller.)

Guide the fabric lightly by hand.

• When the foot controller is being used, you cannot start
sewing by pressing the “Start/Stop” button.

Press the “Start/Stop” button again to stop sewing.

j

(When the foot controller is plugged in, remove your
foot from the foot controller.)

Set the fabric under the presser foot. Hold the fabric

f

and thread with your left hand, and rotate the
handwheel counterclockwise or press (Needle
position button) to set the needle in the sewing start
position.

Lower the presser foot lever.

g

Adjust the sewing speed with the sewing speed

h

controller.

You can use this controller to adjust sewing speed
during sewing.

1 Fast
2 Slow

Press (Needle position button) to raise the needle.

k

Raise the presser foot lever, and then remove the

l

fabric.

Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine, and then

m

cut the threads by using the thread cutter.

Check the sewing finish. If necessary, adjust the thread

n

tension. (page 27)

■ Using the foot controller

You can also use the foot controller to start and stop
sewing.

24

• When the foot controller is connected, you cannot use
the “Start/Stop” button.

• Bobbin winding can be started and stopped with the
foot controller.

Turn off the machine.

a

Insert the foot controller plug into the foot controller

Memo

Memo

1

Memo

a

b

cd

b

jack on the machine.

1 Foot controller jack

Sewing

Turn on the machine.

c

Slowly depress the foot controller to start sewing.

d

• The speed that is set using the sewing speed controller
will be the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.

Release the foot controller to stop the machine.

e

Sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches

Reverse/reinforcement stitches are generally necessary at the
beginning and end of sewing. With reinforcement stitches, 3
to 5 stitches are sewn at the same place. With reverse stitches,
the stitching is sewn in the opposite direction. Depending on
the selected stitch, reverse or reinforcement stitches are sewn

while (Reverse stitch button) is pressed continuously.

• When a reverse stitch pattern or reinforcement stitch

pattern is selected, pressing (Reverse stitch button)
continuously will sew reverse stitches.

When any other stitch is selected, pressing (Reverse
stitch button) continuously will sew reinforcement
stitches.
For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

• Pressing (Reinforcement stitch button) continuously
sews 3 to 5 stitches at the same place when any stitch

pattern is selected.

1 Reverse stitch
2 Reinforcement stitch
3 (Reverse stitch button)

4 (Reinforcement stitch button)

• (For models equipped with an LED beside the
reinforcement stitch button)
The green LED beside (Reinforcement stitch button)
lights up while a stitch is being sewn. The LED goes off
when sewing of the reinforcement stitch is finished.

Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching

After selecting a stitch pattern, turn on the automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitching function before sewing, and the
machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches (or
reverse stitches, depending on the stitch pattern) at the
beginning and end of sewing.

If the machine is turned off, automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching will be turned off.

Select a stitch.

a

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Basic
sewing” on page 23.

Press (Automatic reverse/reinforcement key) to set

b

the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
function.

 appears in the LCD.

Set the fabric in the start position and press the “Start/

c

Stop” button to begin sewing.

2

SEWING BASICS

1 Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)

 The machine will automatically sew reverse stitches

(or reinforcement stitches) and then continue sewing.

25

Sewing

Memo

Once you have reached the end of the stitching, press

d

(Reverse stitch button) or (Reinforcement stitch

button).

1 Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)

 The machine will sew reverse stitches (or

reinforcement stitches) and stop.

The operation performed when either of these buttons is
pressed differs depending on the selected stitch pattern. Refer
to the following table for details on the operation that is
performed when the button is pressed.

When the automatic
reverse/
reinforcement
stitching function is
not active with a
reverse stitch pattern
selected:

Reverse stitch

button

Machine sews
reverse stitches
while holding the
button.

Reinforcement

stitch button

Machine sews 3 - 5
reinforcement
stitches while
holding the button.

When the automatic
reverse/
reinforcement
stitching function is
not active with a
reinforcement stitch
pattern selected:

When the automatic
reverse/
reinforcement
stitching function is
not active with a
stitch other than
reverse or
reinforcement stitch
pattern selected.

When the automatic
reverse/
reinforcement
stitching function is
not active with a
decorative stitch
pattern selected.

When the automatic
reverse/
reinforcement
stitching function is
active with a reverse
stitch pattern
selected:

Machine sews
reverse stitches
while holding the

*

button.

Machine sews 3 - 5
reinforcement
stitches while
holding the button.

Machine sews 3 - 5
reinforcement
stitches while
holding the button.

Machine sews
reverse stitches and
stops sewing when
the button is
pressed.
(At the beginning of
sewing, reverse
stitches are sewn
automatically when
“Start/Stop” button
is pressed.)

Machine sews 3 - 5
reinforcement
stitches while
holding the button.

Machine sews 3 - 5
reinforcement
stitches while
holding the button.

Machine sews 3 - 5
reinforcement
stitches after
completing the
pattern, when the
button is pressed.

Machine sews
reinforcement
stitches and stops
sewing when the
button is pressed.
(At the beginning of
sewing, reverse
stitches are sewn
automatically when
“Start/Stop” button
is pressed.)

When the automatic
reverse/
reinforcement
stitching function is
active with a
reinforcement stitch
pattern selected:

When the automatic
reverse/
reinforcement
stitching function is
active with a stitch
other than reverse or
reinforcement stitch
pattern selected.

When the automatic
reverse/
reinforcement
stitching function is
active with a
decorative stitch
pattern selected.

Reverse stitch

button

Machine sews
reverse stitches and
stops sewing when
the button is
pressed.
(At the beginning of
sewing,
reinforcement
stitches are sewn
automatically when
“Start/Stop” button
is pressed.)

Machine sews
reinforcement
stitches and stops
sewing when the
button is pressed.
(At the beginning of
sewing,
reinforcement
stitches are sewn
automatically when
“Start/Stop” button
is pressed.)

Machine sews 3 - 5
reinforcement
stitches and stops
sewing when the
button is pressed.
(At the beginning of
sewing,
reinforcement
stitches are sewn
automatically when
“Start/Stop” button
is pressed.)

*

Reinforcement

stitch button

Machine sews
reinforcement
stitches and stops
sewing when the
button is pressed.
(At the beginning of
sewing,
reinforcement
stitches are sewn
automatically when
“Start/Stop” button
is pressed.)

Machine sews
reinforcement
stitches and stops
sewing when the
button is pressed.
(At the beginning of
sewing,
reinforcement
stitches are sewn
automatically when
“Start/Stop” button
is pressed.)

Machine sews 3 - 5
reinforcement
stitches and stops
sewing after
completing the
pattern, when the
button is pressed.
(At the beginning of
sewing,
reinforcement
stitches are sewn
automatically when
“Start/Stop” button
is pressed.)

* When reinforcement priority is turned “ ”,

reinforcement stitches will be sewn instead of
reverse stitches.
Refer to “Reinforcement priority” on page 27.

• Some stitches, such as buttonholes and bar tacks,
require reinforcement stitches at the beginning of
sewing. If you select one of these stitches, the machine
will automatically turn on this function ( appears on
the LCD when the stitch is selected).

26

Adjusting the thread tension

Memo

Memo

CAUTION

1

2

3
4

Reinforcement priority

When reinforcement priority is turned on, reinforcement
stitches will be sewn at the beginning and/or end of sewing a

reinforcement stitch pattern, even if (Reverse stitch button)
is pressed. For details, refer to “Automatic reverse/

reinforcement stitching” on page 25.

Turn off the machine.

a

While pressing (Reinforcement stitch button), turn

b

on the sewing machine.

Press the “-” or “+” key.

c

 The value in the LCD changes from “ ” to

“”.

Turn off the machine, then turn it on again.

d

 Reinforcement priority is turned on.

• When the same operation is performed, the
reinforcement priority is turned off.

■ Setting the stitch width

The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to make the
stitch wider or narrower.

When the stitch width is changed from the default setting,

around disappears. When the stitch width is reset

back to the default setting, reappears around .

■ Setting the stitch length

The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch coarser
(longer) or finer (shorter).

When the stitch length is changed from the default setting,

around disappears. When the stitch length is reset

back to the default setting, reappears around .

2

SEWING BASICS

Setting the stitch width/stitch length

This machine is preset with the default settings for the
stitch width and stitch length for each stitch. These settings
can be changed as needed.

• To return the settings to their defaults, turn off the
machine, or select a different stitch.

• If a straight stitch or triple stretch stitch is selected,
changing the stitch width changes the needle position.
Increasing the width moves the needle to the right;
reducing the width moves the needle to the left.
(page 27)

• After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise)
and check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot,
the needle may bend or break.

• If the stitches are bunched together, increase
the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the
stitches bunched together may result in the
needle bending or breaking.

Adjusting the thread tension

You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the
fabric and thread being used.

■ Correct thread tension

The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near
the center of the fabric. Only the upper thread should be
visible from the right side of the fabric, and only the
bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of the
fabric.

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread

27

Useful Sewing Tips

Note

Note

Note

1

2

3
45

1

2

3
4

5

Note

■ Upper thread is too tight

If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the
fabric, the upper thread is too tight. Loosen the thread
tension.

Useful Sewing Tips

Sewing Tips

• If the bobbin thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper
thread may be too tight. In this case, refer to “Installing
the bobbin” on page 14 and rethread the bobbin thread.

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread
5 The bobbin thread is visible

from the right side of the
fabric.

Turn the thread tension dial counterclockwise to loosen the
upper thread tension.

■ Upper thread is too loose

If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the
fabric, the upper thread is too loose. Tighten the thread
tension.

• If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper
thread may be too loose. In this case, refer to “Upper
Threading” on page 15 and rethread the upper thread.

■ Trial s ewing

Before starting your sewing project, we recommend sewing
trial stitches using thread and scrap fabric that are the same as
those used for your project.

While checking the sewing results, adjust the thread tension
as well as the stitch length and width according to the number
of fabric layers and stitch that is sewn.

• Other factors, such as fabric thickness, stabilizer
material, etc., also have an effect on the stitch, so you
should always sew a few trial stitches before beginning
your project.

• When sewing decorative satin stitch or satin stitch
patterns, there may be shrinking or bunching of
stitches, so be sure to use a stabilizer material.

■

Changing the sewing direction

When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the machine.

a

Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle

remains up when the machine stops sewing, press
(Needle position button) to lower the needle.

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread
5 The upper thread is visible

from the wrong side of the
fabric.

Turn the thread tension dial clockwise to tighten the upper
thread tension.

• If the upper thread is not threaded correctly or the
bobbin is not installed correctly, it may not be possible
to set the correct thread tension. If the correct thread
tension cannot be achieved, rethread the upper thread
and insert the bobbin correctly.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric.

b

Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

Lower the presser foot lever and continue sewing.

c

■ Sewing curves

Sew slowly while slightly changing the sewing direction to
sew around the curve. For details on sewing with an even
seam allowance, refer to “Sewing an even seam allowance”
on page 29.

28

When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select
a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.

Useful Sewing Tips

12

0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0

34 56

1

2

a

b

d

c

ef

a

b

c

■ Sewing cylindrical pieces

Removing the flat bed attachment allows for free-arm sewing,
making it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs
and pant legs.

Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.

a

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the free arm,

b

and then sew from the top.

When you are finished with free arm sewing, install the

c

flat bed attachment back in its original position.

Sewing an even seam allowance

To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam allowance
is to the right of the presser foot, and the edge of the fabric is
aligned with either the right edge of the presser foot or a
marking on the needle plate.

■ Changing the needle position

The needle position used as the baseline is different for the
straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch
(middle (center) needle position).

1 Straight stitch (left

needle position)

2 Straight stitch (middle

(center) needle
position)

When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left needle
position) is set to its standard setting (0.0 mm), the
distance from the needle position to the right side of the
presser foot is 12 mm (1/2 inch). If the stitch width is
changed (between 0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle
position will also change. By changing the stitch width
and sewing with the right side of the presser foot aligned
with the edge of the fabric, a seam allowance can be sewn
with a fixed width.

1 Stitch width setting
2 Distance from the

needle position to the
right side of the
presser foot

3 12.0 mm (1/2 inch)
4 10.0 mm (3/8 inch)
5 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
6 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)

30.866 mm30. mm

• For details, refer to “Setting the stitch width” on
page 27.

■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking

The markings on the needle plate show the distance from
the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch
(left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the
fabric aligned with a marking on the needle plate. The
distance between the markings in the upper scale is
1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the markings in
the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).

For stitches with a left needle position
(Stitch width: 0.0 mm)

1 Seam
2 Presser foot
3 Centimeters
4 Inches
5 Needle plate
6 1.6 cm (5/8 inch)

2

SEWING BASICS

■ Aligning the fabric with zigzag foot “J”

The marking on zigzag foot “J” can be used to sew about 5
mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric. When using
this feature, select a straight stitch, and set the stitch width
to 2.0 mm.

1 Stitch width 2.0 mm
2 Marking
3 5 mm (3/16 inch)

29

Useful Sewing Tips

a

CAUTION

Sewing Various Fabrics

■ Sewing thick fabrics

 If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot

The presser foot lever can be raised to two different
positions. If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot,
for example, when sewing together thick fabrics, raise the
presser foot lever to its highest position so that the fabric
can be placed under the presser foot.

Release the presser foot locking pin (black button).

d

 The presser foot remains level, allowing the fabric to

be fed.

 After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will return to

its original angle.

• If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is
sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much
force, the needle may bend or break.

 If the fabric does not feed

When sewing thick fabric such as denim or quilting, the
fabric may not feed at the start of sewing if the presser foot
is not level, as shown below. In this case, use the presser
foot locking pin (black button on the left side) of zigzag
foot “J” so that the presser foot remains level while sewing,
allowing the fabric to be fed smoothly.
If the presser foot misalignment is too large, place thick
paper or fabric (with the same thickness as the fabric being
sewn) under the heel of the presser foot to be able to start
sewing smoothly.

a

c

b

1 Sewing direction
2 Misalignment
3 Fabric being sewn
4 Fabric or thick paper

Raise the presser foot lever.

a

d

■ Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics such as chiffon, the stitching may
become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. Move
the needle (be sure to use a fine needle) to the furthest left or
right hand position so that the fabric does not get pulled down
into the feed dog area. If this occurs or there is shrinkage of
the stitching, place non-woven water soluble stabilizer under
the fabric and sew them together.

1 water soluble stabilizer

(non-woven)

1

Align the beginning of stitching, and then position the

b

fabric.

While holding zigzag foot “J” level, push in and hold

c

the presser foot locking pin (black button on the left
side), and lower the presser foot lever.

1 Presser foot

locking pin (black
button)

30

■ Sewing stretch fabrics

Note

1

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

1

a

Note

CAUTION

Note

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without
stretching the fabric. If the stitching is misaligned, place non­woven water soluble stabilizer under the fabric and sew them
together.

1 Basting

For best results when sewing on knit fabrics use the stretch
stitches. Also be sure to use a needle for knits (Ball Point
needle (gold colored)). The recommended stitches and their
stitch numbers are shown below.

No.

Stitch

05 05 05 10

Useful Sewing Tips

• The walking foot can only be used with straight or

zigzag stitch patterns. Do not sew reverse stitches with
the walking foot.

• When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed

between slow and medium.

• When using the walking foot, test sew on a scrap piece

of leather or vinyl that is to be used in project to make
sure foot does not leave any marks.

2

■ Sewing hook-and-loop fastener tape

SEWING BASICS

• Use only the adhesive-free hook-and-loop

fastener tape which is designed for sewing.
When the glue adheres to the needle or the
bobbin case, it may cause malfunction.

• If the hook-and-loop fastener tape is sewn with

the thin needle (65/9-75/11), the needle may
bend or break.

06 06 06 03

10 09 09 09

• Be sure to follow manufacturer's instructions when
using water soluble stabilizer. It may not be compatible
with some fabrics.

■ Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics

When sewing fabrics that may stick to the presser foot, such as
leather or vinyl fabrics, replace the presser foot with the
walking foot* or non stick foot* .

* Items sold separately, please contact your authorized

Brother dealer.

1 Leather

If the leather or vinyl fabric sticks to the flat bed attachment,
sew with copy paper or tracing paper placed on top of the flat
bed attachment so the fabric moves smoothly.

• Before sewing, baste together the fabric and the hook­and-loop fastener tape.

Make sure that the needle passes through the hook-and-loop
fastener tape by turning the handwheel and lower the needle
into the hook-and-loop fastener tape before sewing. And then,
sew the edge of the hook-and-loop fastener tape at a slow
speed.

If the needle does not pass through the hook-and-loop
fastener tape, replace the needle with the needle size for
thicker fabrics. For details, refer to “Fabric/Thread/Needle
Combinations” on page 19.

1 Edge of the hook-and-loop

fastener tape

1

If the paper is positioned so that it does not cover the needle
plate, the paper will not be sewn together with the fabric.

1 Copy paper or tracing paper

31

Useful Sewing Tips

Sewing decorative stitch patterns

Fabric When sewing on stretch fabrics, lightweight

Thread #50 - #60

Needle With lightweight, regular, or stretch fabrics: the Ball

fabrics, or fabrics with coarse weaves, attach
stabilizer on the wrong side of the fabric. An
alternative would be to place the fabric on thin
paper such as tracing paper.

1 Fabric
2 Stabilizer
3 Thin paper

point needle (gold colored) 90/14
With heavyweight fabrics: home machine needle
90/14

32

Stitch Chart

Memo

Stitch

No.

80 stitches 01 02 03 04 07 08 09 10 15 16 18

60 stitches 01 02 03 04 07 08 – 09 14 – 16

50 stitches 01 02 03 04 07 08 – 09 14 – 16

16 stitches 01 – 02 – 04 – – 09 – – –

1 Left needle position
2 Middle (center) needle position
3 Right needle position
4 Reverse stitch pattern
5 Reinforcement stitch pattern

a

b

c

d

e

d

e

Note

80 stitches

model

60 stitches

model

50 stitches

model

16 stitches

model

Chapter 3

VARIOUS STITCHES

Stitch Chart

■ Utility stitches

• When any of the following stitches (reverse stitch patterns and reinforcement stitch patterns) are selected, pressing
(Reverse stitch button) will sew reverse stitches.

When any other stitch is selected, pressing (Reverse stitch button) will sew reinforcement stitches.

• The stitch pattern symbols indicate the following.

3

VARIOUS STITCHES

• The walking foot can only be used with straight or zigzag stitch patterns. Do not sew reverse stitches with the walking
foot.

*1

Twin needle can be used by attaching zigzag foot “J”. (page 33 to 36)

*2

When using the twin needle, set the stitch width between 1.0 mm (1/16 inch) and 6.0 mm (15/64 inch).

*3

When using the twin needle, set the stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

No.

Stitch width

Stitch

*1

01

*1

02

*1

03

*1

04

05

*1

01

02

03

04

05

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

01

02

03

04

05

*1

*1

*1

02

*1

*1

Presser

foot

01 J

–J

*1*2

–J

10 J

Straight stitch (Left)

General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.

Straight stitch (Left)

General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.

Straight stitch (Middle)

J

General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.

Straight stitch (Middle)

General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.

Triple stretch stitch

General sewing for reinforcement and
decorative topstitching

Stitch name/Applications

(mm (inch))

Auto.

Manual

0.0 (0)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

0.0 (0)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

0.0 (0)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

Stitch length

(mm (inch))

Auto.

Manual

2.5 (3/32)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

33

Stitch Chart

80 stitches

model

60 stitches

model

50 stitches

model

16 stitches

model

Stitch

No.

Presser

foot

Stitch name/Applications

Stitch width

(mm (inch))

Auto.

Manual

Stitch length

(mm (inch))

Auto.

Manual

06

07

08

09

10

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

06

07

08

*1

*1

*1

06

07

08

*1

*1

*1

*1*3

03

*1*3

04

–J

––– J

09

*1

09

*1

09

*1*3

11 10 10 05 G

12 11 11 06 G

13 12 12 – G

14

*1

13

*1

13

*1

–J

15 14 14 – J

16 – – – J

17 15 15 – J

18 16 16 – J

19 17 – – J

20 18 17 – J

21 19 18 07 R

22 20 19 08 R

23

24

*1

*1

21

22

*1

*1

20

21

*1

*1

*1*3

11

–J

Stem stitch

J

Reinforced stitching, sewing and decorative
applications

Zigzag stitch

J

For overcasting, mending.

Zigzag stitch

For overcasting, mending.

Zigzag stitch (Right)

Start from right needle position, zigzag sews to
left.

3 steps elastic zigzag stitch

J

Overcasting (medium, heavyweight and stretch
fabrics), tape and elastic

Overcasting stitch

Reinforcing of light and medium weight fabrics

Overcasting stitch

Reinforcing of heavyweight fabric

Overcasting stitch

Reinforcing of medium, heavyweight and easily
friable fabrics or decorative stitching.

Overcasting stitch

Reinforced seaming of stretch fabric

Piecing stitch (Right)

Piecework/patchwork 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)
right seam allowance

Piecing stitch (Middle)

Piecework/patchwork -.-

Hand-look quilting stitch

Quilting stitch made to look like hand quilting
when using transparent nylon thread for the
upper thread and a thread color matching the
quilt for the bobbin thread.
Sew with a tight thread tension so that the
bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the
fabric.
Use a needle between 90/14 and 100/16.

Quilting appliqué zigzag stitch

Zigzag stitch for quilting and sewing on appliqué
quilt pieces

Quilting appliqué stitch

Quilting stitch for invisible appliqué or attaching
binding

Quilting stippling stitch

Background quilting

Blind hem stitch

Hemming woven fabrics

* The stitch width setting is in neither

millimeters nor inches.

Blind hem stretch stitch

Hemming stretch fabric

* The stitch width setting is in neither

millimeters nor inches.

Blanket stitch

J

Appliqués, decorative blanket stitch

Blanket stitch

Appliqués, decorative blanket stitch

1.0 (1/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

2.5 - 5.0

(3/32 - 3/16)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

2.5 - 5.0

(3/32 - 3/16)

5.0 (3/16)

2.5 - 5.0

(3/32 - 3/16)

5.0 (3/16)

3.5 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

5.5 (7/32)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

0.0 (0)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

1.5 (1/16)

0.0 - 3.5
(0 - 1/8)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

00

-3 - 3

00

-3 - 3

3.5 (1/8)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.0 - 4.0

(0 - 3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.0 - 4.0

(0 - 3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.3 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.0 - 4.0

(0 - 3/16)

1.8 (1/16)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

34

Stitch

80 stitches

model

60 stitches

model

50 stitches

model

16 stitches

model

No.

Presser

foot

Stitch name/Applications

Stitch width

(mm (inch))

Auto.

Manual

Stitch Chart

Stitch length

(mm (inch))

Auto.

Manual

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

*1

–J

–N

–J

–J

–J

–J

*1*3

12

–J

33 31 30 – N

34

35

36

*1

*1

*1

32

33

34

*1

*1

*1

31

32

33

*1

*1

*1

–J

–J

–N

37 35 34 – N

38 36 35 – N

39 – – – N

40

41

*1

*1

37

38

*1

*1

36

*1

–N

–– N

42 39 37 15 A

43 – – – A

44 40 38 14 A

45 41 39 – A

Shell tuck edge stitch

Shell tuck edge finish on fabrics

Satin scallop stitch

Decorating collar of blouse, edge of
handkerchief

Patchwork join stitch

Patchwork stitches, decorative stitching

Patchwork double overlock stitch

Patchwork stitches, decorative stitching

Couching stitch

Decorative stitching, attaching cord and
couching

Smocking stitch

Smocking, decorative stitching

Feather stitch

J

Fagoting, decorative stitching

Fagoting cross stitch

Fagoting, bridging and decorative stitching

Ladder stitch

Decorative stitching

Rick-rack stitch

Decorative top stitching

Decorative stitch

Decorative stitching

Serpentine stitch

Decorative stitching and attaching elastic

Hemstitching

Decorative hems, lace attaching pin stitch

Hemstitching

Decorative hems, daisy stitch

Hemstitching

Heirloom, decorative hems

Hemstitching

Heirloom, decorative hems

Hemstitching

Heirloom, decorative hems

Narrow rounded buttonhole stitch

Buttonhole on light to medium weight fabrics

Tapered round ended buttonhole stitch

Reinforced waist tapered buttonholes

Narrow squared buttonhole stitch

Buttonholes for light to medium weight fabrics

Stretch buttonhole stitch

Buttonholes for stretch or woven fabrics

4.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

5.5 (7/32)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

6.0 (15/64)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

3.0 - 6.0

(1/8 - 15/64)

5.0 (3/16)

3.0 - 6.0

(1/8 - 15/64)

5.0 (3/16)

3.0 - 6.0

(1/8 - 15/64)

6.0 (15/64)

3.0 - 6.0

(1/8 - 15/64)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.1 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

3.0 (1/8)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

3.0 (1/8)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

3.5 (1/8)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

4.0 (3/16)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.4 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

1.0 (1/16)

0.5 - 2.0

(1/32 - 1/16)

3

VARIOUS STITCHES

35

Stitch Chart

80 stitches

model

60 stitches

model

50 stitches

model

16 stitches

model

Stitch

No.

Presser

foot

Stitch name/Applications

Stitch width

(mm (inch))

Auto.

Manual

Stitch length

(mm (inch))

Auto.

Manual

46 42 40 – A

47 43 41 16 A

48 44 – – A

49 – – – A

50 45 42 13 A

Heirloom buttonhole stitch

Buttonholes for heirloom and stretch fabrics

Keyhole buttonhole stitch

Buttonholes in heavyweight or thick fabrics for
larger flat buttons

Tapered keyhole buttonhole stitch

Buttonholes in medium to heavy weight fabrics
for larger flat buttons

Keyhole buttonhole stitch

Buttonholes with vertical bar tack for
reinforcement in heavyweight or thick fabrics

Bar tack stitch

Reinforcement at opening of pocket, etc.

6.0 (15/64)

3.0 - 6.0

(1/8 - 15/64)

7.0 (1/4)

3.0 - 7.0

(1/8 - 1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

3.0 - 7.0

(1/8 - 1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

3.0 - 7.0

(1/8 - 1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

1.0 - 3.0

(1/16 - 1/8)

1.5 (1/16)

1.0 - 3.0

(1/16 - 1/8)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.3 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

36

Stitch Chart

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

Decorative Stitches

Decorative

satin stitches

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

Satin stitches

Cross stitch stitches

■ Decorative stitches

Use monogramming foot “N”.
The twin needle can only be used with satin stitch. In addition, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J” when using the twin needle.

Stitch

No.

51 46 – –

52–––

53–––

54 47 – –

55 48 43 –

56–––

57 49 – –

58 50 – –

59–––

Stitch

No.

68 52 45 –

69–––

70 53 46 –

71 54 47 –

72 55 – –

73 56 – –

74 57 48 –

75–––

76 58 – –

3

VARIOUS STITCHES

60 51 44 –

61–––

62–––

63–––

64–––

65–––

*

– – – – – – –

66–––

67–––

77 59 49 –

78 60 50 –

79–––

80–––

* Pattern for making adjustments. (page 54)

37

Utility stitches

CAUTION

CAUTION

G

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

CAUTION

1

Utility stitches

• Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to
turn off the machine, otherwise injuries may
occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any other
button is pressed and the machine starts
operating. For details on changing the presser
foot, refer to “Replacing the Presser Foot” on
page 21.

Overcasting Stitches

Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric against

c

the presser foot guide, and then lower the presser foot
lever.

1 Presser foot guide

a

Rotate the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).

d

Check that the needle does not touch the presser foot.

1 The needle should

not touch the
presser foot center
bar

Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to
prevent them from fraying.

■ Using overcasting foot “G”

Attach overcasting foot “G”.

a

Select a stitch.

b

No.

Stitch

11 10 10 05

12 11 11 06

13 12 12 –

Sew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot

e

guide.

1 Needle drop point

• Be sure to pull the fabric backward after
finished sewing. If you pull the fabric toward
side or forward, the presser foot pin may be
damaged.

• If thread is tangled on the presser foot, remove
the entangled thread, and then raise the
presser foot lever to remove the presser foot. If
the presser foot is raised while entangled with
thread, the presser foot may be damaged.

Press the “Start/Stop” button to stop sewing when you

f

are finished, and raise the presser foot and needle to
pull the fabric under the presser foot towards the back
of the machine.

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

• When using overcasting foot “G”, be sure to
select a stitch that can be used with
overcasting foot “G”. If you sew with the
incorrect stitch, the needle may hit the presser
foot, bending the needle or damaging the
presser foot.

38

Utility stitches

Memo

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

a

b

c

1

2

1

2

1

3

3

4

2

1

3

6

5

1

1

2

7

4

a

b

f

c

a

a

c

d

a

f

a

a

b

e

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

■ Using zigzag foot “J”

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

Select a stitch.

b

No.

Stitch

07 07 07 04

09 − − –

10 09 09 09

14 13 13 –

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

Sew along the edge of the fabric with the needle

c

dropping off the edge at the right.

1 Needle drop point

a

Using tailor's chalk, mark the fabric about 5 mm (3/16

c

inch) from the edge of the fabric, and then baste it.

356

1

1

1

2

4

2

2

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Lower edge of fabric
4 Desired length for hem
5 5 mm (3/16 inch)
6 Basting

<Thick fabric>

<Normal fabric>

<Seen from the side>

Fold back the fabric inside along the basting.

d

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Lower edge of fabric
4 Desired length for hem
5 5 mm (3/16 inch)
6 Basting
7 Basting point

<Thick fabric>

<Normal fabric>

<Seen from the side>

Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the fabric with

e

the wrong side facing up.

3

VARIOUS STITCHES

Blind Hem Stitching

Secure the lower edge of skirts and pants with a blind hem.

• When the size of cylindrical pieces is too small to slide

onto the arm or the length is too short, the fabric will not
feed and desired results may not be achieved.

Turn the skirt or pants inside out.

a

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Lower edge of fabric

Fold the lower edge of fabric to the desired length to

b

be hemmed and then press.

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Lower edge of fabric
4 Desired length for hem

<Thick fabric>

<Seen from the side>

<Normal fabric>

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Edge of fabric
4 Desired edge of hem
5 Basting point
6 Basting

<Thick fabric>

<Normal fabric>

<Seen from the side>

Attach blind stitch foot “R”.

f

Select a stitch.

g

No.

Stitch

21 19 18 07

22 20 19 08

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

39

Utility stitches

Memo

a

a

b

Note

Remove the flat bed attachment to use the free arm.

h

Slide the item that you wish to sew onto the free arm,

i

make sure that the fabric feeds correctly, and then start
sewing.

1 Free arm

Position the fabric with the edge of the folded hem

j

against the presser foot guide, and then lower the
presser foot lever.

1 Wrong side of

fabric

2 Fold of hem
3 Presser foot guide

Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly catches

k

the fold of the hem. (page 27)

Press the “Start/Stop” button to stop sewing when you

m

are finished, and raise the presser foot and needle to
pull the fabric under the presser foot towards the back
of the machine.

• Be sure to pull the fabric towards the back of the
machine after sewing. If you pull the fabric toward side
or forward, the presser foot may be damaged.

Remove the basting stitching and turn the fabric with

n

the right side facing out.

1 Wrong side of

fabric

2 Right side of

1

2

fabric

Buttonhole sewing

The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8
inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).

Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the
back, as shown below.

1 Needle drop point

When you change the needle drop point, raise the
needle, and then change the stitch width.

* To make fine adjustments to the needle drop point,

adjust the stitch width setting. (The stitch width
setting is in neither millimeters nor inches.)

1 Thick fabric
2 Normal fabric

1 Reinforcement stitching

• Blind hem stitches cannot be sewn if the left needle
drop point does not catch the fold. If the needle catches
too much of the fold, the fabric cannot be unfolded and
the seam appearing on the right side of the fabric will be
very large, leaving an unattractive finish.

Sew with the fold of the hem against the presser foot

l

guide.

40

Utility stitches

Note

a

b

3

2

1

2

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

The part names of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used to create
buttonholes, are indicated below.

1 Button guide plate
2 Presser foot scale

1

2

5

3

4

A

3 Presser foot pin
4 Marks on

buttonhole foot

5 5 mm (3/16 inch)

• Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch length and
width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of
fabric used for your project.

Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position and length

a

of the buttonhole.

■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate

Add together the diameter and thickness of the button,
and then set the button guide plate to the calculated
length. (The distance between the markings on the presser
foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

1 Presser foot scale
2 Length of

buttonhole
(diameter +
thickness of
button)

3 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16
inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button
guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.

1 10 mm (3/8 inch)

1

2 15 mm (9/16 inch)

3

VARIOUS STITCHES

1 Marks on fabric
2 Buttonhole sewing

Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole foot “A”,

b

and then insert the button that will be put through the
buttonhole.

 The size of the buttonhole is set.

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

c

Position the upper thread under the presser foot by
guiding thread through the hole in the presser foot
before attaching the buttonhole foot “A”.

Select a stitch.

d

No.

Stitch

42 39 37 15

43–––

44 40 38 14

45 41 39 –

46 42 40 –

47 43 41 16

48 44 – –

49–––

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

41

Utility stitches

Note

Memo

A

a

b

c

CAUTION

1

Position the fabric with the front end of the buttonhole

e

mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the
buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

1 Mark on fabric

(front)

2 Red marks on

buttonhole foot

3 Upper thread

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front
of the presser foot, otherwise the bar tack will not be
sewn with the correct size.

• If there is difficulty in aligning the marks, slowly turn the
handwheel toward you to check where the needle will
enter the fabric, and then align the mark on the fabric
with that point.

Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at the end

j

of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching
from being cut.

1 Pin

Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open

k

the buttonhole.

1 Seam ripper

1

For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make
a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then
use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.

1 Eyelet punch

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.

f

1 Buttonhole lever

a

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket
on the buttonhole foot.

1 Buttonhole lever
2 Bracket

1

2

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left

g

hand, and then start sewing.

1

• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or
some other protective sheet under the fabric before
punching the hole in the fabric.

• When opening the buttonhole with the seam
ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting
direction, otherwise injuries may result if the
seam ripper slips.

• Do not use the seam ripper in any other way
than how it is intended.

■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics

When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp
thread.

Hook the gimp thread onto the part of buttonhole foot

a

“A” shown in the illustration.

 Once sewing is completed, the machine

automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then
stops.

Press (Needle position button) to raise the needle,

h

raise the presser foot, and then pull out the fabric
before cutting the threads.

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.

i

42

It fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.

b

Utility stitches

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

CAUTION

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

a

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

c

Select a stitch.

d

No.

Stitch

45 41 39 –

46 42 40 –

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the gimp

e

thread.

Lower the presser foot lever and the buttonhole lever,

f

and then start sewing.

When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp thread to

g

remove any slack.

Select a stitch.

d

No.

Stitch

07 07 07 04

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as the

e

distance between the holes in the button.

Place the button in the position where it will be sewn,

f

and lower the presser foot lever.

1 Button

• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two
holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that
the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of
the machine, and then sew them in the same way.

3

VARIOUS STITCHES

Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp thread to the

h

wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it.

Button sewing

Buttons can be sewn on with the machine. Buttons with two
or with four holes can be attached.

Measure the distance between the holes in the button

a

to be attached.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the feed dog

b

position switch, located at the rear of the machine on
the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of
the machine).

 The feed dogs are lowered.

Attach button fitting foot “M”.

c

Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to

g

check that the needle correctly goes into the two holes
of the button.

If it seems as if the needle will hit the button, remeasure
the distance between the holes in the button. Adjust the
stitch width to the distance between the button holes.

• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not
touch the button, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.

Sew about 10 stitches at a slow speed.

h

Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so that the
speed will be slow).

43

Utility stitches

Memo

1

1

2

3

a

b

a

b

1

Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin

i

thread at the beginning of the stitching.

Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching to the
wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin
thread.

When you are finished attaching the button, slide the

j

feed dog position switch, to (to the right as seen
from the rear of the machine) and turn the handwheel
to raise the feed dogs.

• The feed dogs come up when you start sewing again.

■

Attaching a shank to a button

To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with
space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread
by hand. This attaches the button securely.

Zipper Insertion

■ Inserting a centered zipper

Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted against each
other.

1 Right side of fabric
2 Stitching
3 End of zipper opening

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.

b

With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew
reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.

1 Reverse stitches
2 End of zipper opening

Place the button into button fitting foot “M”, and then

a

pull the shank lever toward you.

1 Shank lever

After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread with

b

plenty of excess, wind it around the thread between
the button and the fabric, and then tie it to the upper
thread at the beginning of the stitching.

Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at the end
and at the beginning of the stitching at the wrong side of
the fabric.

Cut off any excess thread.

c

Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the edge of

c

the fabric.

1 Basting stitching
2 Wrong side of fabric

Press open the seam allowance from the wrong side of

d

the fabric.

1 Wrong side of fabric

Align the seam with the center of the zipper, and then

e

baste the zipper in place to the seam allowance.

44

1

2

3

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting stitching
3 Zipper

Remove about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of the

CAUTION

2

1

I

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

1

2

3

4

CAUTION

Memo

Note

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

f

basting on the outside.

1 Wrong side of fabric

2

3

Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin of zipper

g

foot “I”.

4

1

2 Zipper basting
3 Outside basting
4 5 cm (2 inches)

1 Pin on the right side
2 Needle drop point

Utility stitches

• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not
touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.

• If the presser foot contacts the zipper slider, leave the
needle lowered (in the fabric) and raise the presser foot.
After moving the slider so it will not contact the presser
foot, lower the presser foot and continue sewing.

Remove the basting stitching.

j

3

Select a stitch.

h

No.

Stitch

03 03 03 02

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

• When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select
the straight stitch (middle (center) needle
position), and slowly turn the handwheel
toward

you (

counterclockwise)

to check that
the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a
different stitch is selected or the needle hits
the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.

Topstitch around the zipper.

i

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching

■ Appliqué stitching

Baste or glue the appliqué piece to the base fabric to

a

secure it.

• If glue is used to hold the appliqué in place on the
fabric, do not apply glue to areas that will be sewn with
the machine. If glue adheres to the needle or bobbin
case, the machine may be damaged.

Attach the zigzag foot “J”.

b

Select a stitch.

c

No.

Stitch

18 16 16

19 17 – –

*1

–

VARIOUS STITCHES

1 Stitching
2 Right side of fabric
3 Basting stitching
4 End of zipper opening

23 21 20 11

24 22 21 –

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.
*1 For the 16 stitches model, select stitch “04”, and use

the reinforcement stitch button. Do not use reverse
stitching.

45

Utility stitches

CAUTION

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

Memo

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

1

1

Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise),

d

and then begin sewing around the edge of the
appliqué, making sure that the needle drops just
outside of the appliqué.

When sewing around corners, stop the machine with
the needle in the fabric just outside of the appliqué,
raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric as
needed to change the sewing direction.

■ Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching

Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and place it

a

over the lower piece.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Select a stitch.

c

• The stitches shown below are examples. Select the
desired stitch.

No.

Stitch

18 16 16

27 25 24 –

*1

–

■ Piecing

Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The
fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam
allowance.

Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the
right side or the left side of the presser foot.

Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the fabric

a

that you wish to piece together.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Select a stitch.

c

No.

Stitch

15 14 14

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.
*1 For the 16 stitches model, select stitch “02”, and use

the reinforcement stitch button. Do not use reverse
stitching and automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching.

Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned with the

d

edge of the fabric.

 For a seam allowance on the right side

Align the edge of the fabric with the right side of the
presser foot, and set the stitch width 5.5 mm (7/32 inch)

and sew using stitch .

1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

*1

–

28 26 25 –

29 27 26 –

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

*1 For the 16 stitches model, select stitch “04”, and use

the reinforcement stitch button. Do not use reverse
stitching and automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching.

Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the stitch

d

pattern spans over both pieces.

Use pins if necessary.

• Do not stitch over pins.

 For a seam allowance on the left side

Align the left side of the presser foot with the edge of the
fabric, and set the stitch width 1.5 mm (1/16 inch) and

sew using stitch .

1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

• To change the width of the seam allowance (needle
position), adjust the stitch width. For details, refer to
“Setting the stitch width” on page 27 and “Sewing an
even seam allowance” on page 29.

46

Utility stitches

Note

CAUTION

a

b

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

■ Quilting

Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of
fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily be sewn using the
walking foot* and the quilting guide*.

* Items sold separately, please contact your authorized

Brother dealer.

• Thread the needle manually when using the walking
foot, or attach the walking foot only after threading the
needle using the needle threader.

• When quilting, use a 90/14 home sewing machine
needle.

• The walking foot can only be used with straight or
zigzag stitch patterns. Do not sew reverse stitches with
the walking foot.

• When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed
between slow and medium.

• When using the walking foot, test sew on a scrap piece
of fabric that is to be used in project.

Baste the fabric to be quilted.

a

Remove the presser foot and the presser foot holder.

b

• For details, refer to “Removing and attaching the
presser foot holder” on page 22.

Select a stitch.

e

No.

Stitch

04 04 04

18 16 16

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.
*1 For the 16 stitches model, select stitch “02”, and use

the reinforcement stitch button. Do not use reverse
stitching and automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching.

*2 For the 16 stitches model, select stitch “04”, and use

the reinforcement stitch button. Do not use reverse
stitching and automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching.

Place one hand on each side of the presser foot, and

f

then evenly guide the fabric while sewing.

*1

–

*2

–

3

VARIOUS STITCHES

Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot onto the

c

needle clamp screw.

1 Connecting fork
2 Needle clamp screw

Lower the presser foot lever, and then tighten the

d

presser foot holder screw with the screwdriver.

• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch
the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

• Before starting to sew, slowly turn the
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise)
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot,
the needle may bend or break.

and

 Using the quilting guide (sold separately)

Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are
equally spaced.

Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the hole at the

a

rear of the walking foot or presser foot holder.

 Walking foot  Presser foot holder

Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that the guide

b

aligns with the seam that has already been sewn.

47

Utility stitches

CAUTION

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

Note

CAUTION

■ Free motion quilting

We recommend attaching the foot controller and sewing at a
consistent speed. You can adjust the sewing speed with the
speed control slide on the machine.

• With free motion quilting, control the feeding
speed of the fabric to match the sewing speed.
If the fabric is moved faster than the sewing
speed, the needle may break or other damage
may result.

The quilting foot* is used for free motion quilting with
zigzag or decorative stitches or for free motion quilting of
straight lines on fabric with an uneven thickness.
* Items sold separately, please contact your authorized

Brother dealer.

 Quilting foot

Attach the quilting foot by positioning the pin of the

d

quilting foot above the needle clamp screw and
aligning the lower-left of the quilting foot and the
presser bar.

1 Pin

a

c

• Make sure that the quilting foot is not slanted.

Hold the quilting foot in place with your right hand,

e

and tighten the presser foot holder screw using the
screwdriver with your left hand.

b

2 Needle clamp screw
3 Presser bar

1 Presser foot holder

screw

Slide the feed dog position switch, located at the rear

a

of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen
from the rear of the machine).

 The feed dogs are lowered.

Select a stitch.

b

No.

Stitch

04 04 04

18 16 16

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.
*1 For the 16 stitches model, select stitch “02”, and use

the reinforcement stitch button. Do not use reverse
stitching and automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching.

*2 For the 16 stitches model, select stitch “04”, and use

the reinforcement stitch button. Do not use reverse
stitching and automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching.

*1

–

*2

–

• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the
included screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle
may touch the quilting foot, causing it to bend
or break.

Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and then

f

move the fabric at a consistent pace in order to sew
uniform stitches roughly 2.0 mm - 2.5 mm (approx.
1/16 inch - 3/32 inch) in length.

1 Stitch

a

After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog position

g

switch lever to (to the right as seen from the rear
of the machine) and turn the handwheel to raise the
feed dogs.

Remove the presser foot holder.

c

• For details, refer to “Removing and attaching the
presser foot holder” on page 22.

48

Utility stitches

CAUTION

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

3

1

2

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

1

Other Stitching Applications

■ Elastic attaching

When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of
clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched
elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of
the elastic tape be used.

Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the fabric.

a

Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make
sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Select a stitch.

c

No.

Stitch

■ Bar tack stitching

Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to strain, such as
pocket corners and openings.

As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at pocket
corners is described below.

Determine the desired length of the bar tack.

a

Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot “A” to the
desired length. (The distance between the markings on
the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

1 Presser foot scale
2 Length of bar tack
3 5 mm (3/16 inch)

• A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm
(1–1/8 inches) can be sewn.

3

VARIOUS STITCHES

10 09 09 09

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while stretching the

d

tape so that it is the same length as the fabric.

While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with
your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front
of the presser foot with your right hand.

• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not
touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend
or break.

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

b

Position the upper thread under the presser foot by
guiding thread through the hole in the presser foot
before attaching the buttonhole foot “A”.

Select a stitch.

c

No.

Stitch

50 45 42 13

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

Position the fabric so that the opening of the pocket

d

faces toward you, and then lower the presser foot lever
so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of
the pocket opening.

1 2 mm (1/16 inch)

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.

e

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left

f

hand, and then start sewing.

49

Utility stitches

2

1

3

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

After sewing is finished, raise the presser foot lever,

g

remove the fabric, and then cut the threads.

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.

h

■ Fagoting

Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It is used
on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more
decorative when thicker thread is used.

Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric along their

a

seams.

Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by about 4

b

mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a sheet of water
soluble stabilizer.

If you draw a line down the middle of the thin paper, or
water soluble stabilizer, sewing is easier.

1 Thin paper or water

soluble stabilizer

2 Basting stitching
3 4 mm (3/16 inch)

■ Scallop stitching

The wave-shaped repeated stitch pattern that looks like shells
is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of blouses and
to decorate the edges of projects.

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

a

Select a stitch.

b

No.

Stitch

26 24 23 –

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure not to

c

sew directly on the edge of the fabric.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c

Select a stitch.

d

No.

Stitch

31 29 28 12

32 30 29 –

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).

e

Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned along

f

the center of the two pieces of fabric.

Trim along the stitches.

d

• Be careful not to cut the stitches.

■ Smocking

The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering
over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the
front of blouses or cuffs.

The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the stitch

b

length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen the thread
tension.

After sewing is finished, remove the paper.

g

50

Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm (3/8 inch)

c

and pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.

Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

Utility stitches

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

Select a stitch.

d

No.

Stitch

30 28 27 –

31 29 28 12

32 30 29 –

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

Stitch between the straight stitches and pull out the

e

threads for the straight stitches.

Sew while making sure that the needle drops slightly

d

off the edge of the fabric.

One fold at a time, continue folding the fabric along the
line, then sewing it.

1 Needle drop point

a

After sewing is finished, remove the fabric. Unfold the

e

fabric, and then iron the tucks down to one side.

■ Joining

Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam
allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy
quilt.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

Sew together the right sides of the two pieces of fabric,

b

and then open up the seam allowances.

3

VARIOUS STITCHES

■ Shell tuck stitching

The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. They
are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made
of thin fabrics.

Draw equally spaced lines along the bias, and then fold

a

the fabric along the lines.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Select a stitch, and then increase the thread tension.

c

No.

Stitch

25 23 22 –

Select a stitch.

c

No.

Stitch

27 25 24 –

28 26 25 –

29 27 26 –

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

Turn the fabric over so that the right side faces up, and

d

then sew over the seam with the center of the presser
foot aligned with the seam.

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

51

Utility stitches

CAUTION

CAUTION

CAUTION

a

■ Using the twin needle

With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the
same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads
should have the same thickness and quality.

The procedure for using the twin needle differs depending on
the model.

• Only use the twin needle (2/11 needle, part
code: X59296-121), and never use the needle
threader with the twin needle.
Otherwise, the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.

• (For models not equipped with a needle mode
selection key)
For stitch patterns that can use the twin
needle, refer to the “Stitch Chart” on page 33.
After specifying the settings, turn the
handwheel toward you and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot.

Install the twin needle.

a

Thread the machine with the second upper thread.

e

Without passing the thread behind the needle bar
thread guide, manually thread the right needle with the
second upper thread.

Insert the thread through the eye of the needle from the
front to the back.

1 Needle bar

thread
guide

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

f

• For details on changing the presser foot, refer to
“Replacing the presser foot” on page 21.

• When using the twin needle, be sure to attach
zigzag foot “J”.

• For details on installing a needle, refer to “Replacing
the Needle” on page 20.

Pass the first upper thread behind the needle bar

b

thread guide.

• For details, refer to steps a through j of
“Threading the upper thread” on page 15.

Manually thread the left needle with the first upper

c

thread.

Insert the thread through the eye of the needle from the
front to the back.

Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of the

d

machine and put the spool of thread onto the extra
spool pin.

1 Thread spool

a

2 Extra spool pin

Turn on the machine.

g

Select a stitch.

h

• For stitch selection refer to “Basic sewing” on
page 23.

• Refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33 for stitches that
can be sewn with a twin needle. You can also sew
with a twin needle when you select a satin stitch
pattern. In this case, use zigzag foot “J”.

• When using the twin needle, be sure to select
an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle
may break or the machine may be damaged.

b

52

Utility stitches

CAUTION

CAUTION

CAUTION

80

stitches

60

stitches

50

stitches

16

stitches

Set the machine to use the twin needle setting. The

i

setting procedure differs depending on the model.

 For models equipped with a needle mode selection key

Press (Needle mode selection key).

 The twin needle mode is selected.

• When using the twin needle, be sure to select
the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle
may break or the machine may be damaged.

 For models not equipped with a needle mode selection

key

When the following stitch is selected, set the stitch
width between 1.0 mm (1/16 inch) and 6.0 mm (15/64
inch) .

No. 02

Stitch

■ Heirloom stitching

When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are
enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to
decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or medium weight
fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics. (Only for models
that include monogramming foot “N”)

Install the wing needle.

a

• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.

• For details on installing a needle, refer to “Replacing
the needle” on page 20.

• The needle threader cannot be used with the wing
needle, otherwise the machine may be damaged.
Manually pass the thread through the eye of the
needle from the front to the back.

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

b

Select a stitch.

c

No.

Stitch

3

VARIOUS STITCHES

When any of the following stitches is selected, set the
stitch width to 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

No. 03 04 09 11 12

Stitch

After specifying the settings, turn the handwheel toward
you and check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot.

Start sewing.

j

• Do not try turning the fabric while the twin
needle is down in the fabric, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.

• If bunched stitches occur, use monogramming
foot “N” (for 80/60/50 stitches models) or
attach stabilizer material.

37 35 34 –

38 36 35 –

40 37 36 –

41 38 – –

• For details, refer to “Stitch Chart” on page 33.

• When sewing with the wing needle, select a
stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less,
otherwise the needle may bend or break.

• After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you (

counterclockwise)
and check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot,
the needle may bend or break.

Start sewing.

d

53

Making adjustments (For 80/60/50 stitches models)

Memo

Note

Note

Making adjustments
(For 80/60/50 stitches models)

Your stitch pattern may sometimes turn out poorly, depending
on the type or thickness of fabric, the stabilizer material used,
sewing speed, etc. If your sewing does not turn out well, sew
trial stitches using the same conditions as the real sewing, and
adjust the stitch pattern as explained below. If the stitch
pattern does not turn out well even after making adjustments
based on the stitch pattern described below, make
adjustments for each stitch pattern individually.

• This adjustment can be made to (Quilting stippling
stitch), decorative stitches, decorative satin stitches,
satin stitches and cross stitch stitches. For details on
the built-in stitch patterns, refer to “Stitch Chart” on
page 33.

Turn the stitch pattern selection dial to select (--).

a

 If the stitch pattern has gaps:

Press the “–” stitch length key.

 The displayed value decreases each time the button

is pressed and the stitch pattern will shorten.

Sew the stitch pattern again.

e

• If the stitch pattern still comes out poorly, make
adjustments again. Adjust until the stitch pattern
comes out correctly.

• Sewing speed controller cannot be used with this stitch
pattern.

Attach monogramming foot “N” and sew the stitch

b

pattern.

• Be sure to use monogramming foot “N”. Adjustments
may not be made correctly with any other presser foot.

Compare the finished stitch pattern to the illustration

c

of the correct stitch pattern below.

Adjust the stitch pattern with the stitch length keys.

d

 If the stitch pattern is bunched:

Press the “+” stitch length key.

 The displayed value increases each time the button is

pressed and the stitch pattern will lengthen.

54

Care and Maintenance

CAUTION

Note

Chapter 4

APPENDIX

Care and Maintenance

• Unplug the power cord before cleaning the
machine, otherwise injuries or an electric
shock may occur.

If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a cloth in
neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and then wipe the
surface of the machine. After cleaning it once with a damp
cloth, wipe it again with a dry cloth.

If the screen is dirty, gently wipe it with a soft, dry cloth. Do
not wipe the LCD screen with a damp cloth. Do not use
organic solvents or detergents.

Restrictions on oiling

In order to prevent damaging this machine, it must not be
oiled by the user.

This machine was manufactured with the necessary amount
of oil applied to ensure correct operation, making periodic
oiling unnecessary.

If problems occur, such as difficulty turning the handwheel or
an unusual noise, immediately stop using the machine, and
contact your authorized Brother dealer or the nearest Brother
authorized service center.

Cleaning the race

Sewing performance will suffer if lint and dust collects in the
bobbin case, therefore, it should be cleaned regularly.

Press (Needle position button) to raise the needle.

a

Turn off the machine.

b

Unplug the power cord from the power supply jack on

c

the right side of the machine.

Raise the presser foot to remove the needle, presser

d

foot and presser foot holder.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the Needle” on
page 20 and “Replacing the Presser Foot” on
page 21.

Remove the flat bed attachment if it is attached.

e

Remove the bobbin cover.

f

Place the index finger of your right hand near the

g

bottom of the latch on the needle plate cover.
Insert the tip of the index finger of your left hand into
the notch at the back of the needle plate cover.
Place the thumb of your left hand at the front of the
needle plate cover.

4

APPENDIX

Precautions on storing the machine

Do not store the machine in any of the locations described
below, otherwise damage to the machine may result, for
example, rust caused by condensation.

• Exposed to extremely high temperatures

• Exposed to extremely low temperatures

• Exposed to extreme temperature changes

• Exposed to high humidity or steam

• Near a flame, heater or air conditioner

• Outdoors or exposed to direct sunlight

• Exposed to extremely dusty or oily environments

• In order to extend the life of this machine, periodically
turn it on and use it.
Storing this machine for an extended period of time
without using it may reduce its efficiency.

Slide the needle plate cover toward you to remove it.

h

55

Care and Maintenance

a

b

a

b

ab

CAUTION

Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.

i

Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to remove

j

any lint and dust from the race and the surrounding
area.

1 Cleaning brush
2 Race

• Do not apply oil to the bobbin case.

Insert the bobbin case so that the  mark on the

k

bobbin case aligns with the

 mark on the machine.

Reattach the bobbin cover.

m

•

Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new bobbin
case, contact your nearest Brother authorized
service center.

• Be sure that the bobbin case is correctly
installed, otherwise the needle may break.

• Align the  and

1  mark
2

 mark

3 Bobbin case

• Make sure that the indicated points are aligned
before installing the bobbin case.

Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into the

l

needle plate, and then slide the cover back on.

 marks.

c

56

Troubleshooting

a

b

c

d

e

Troubleshooting

If the machine stops operating correctly, check the
following possible problems before requesting service.
You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need
additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the
latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at “ http://
s.brother/cpjah/ ”.
If the problem persists, contact your Brother dealer or the
nearest Brother authorized service center.

■ Frequent troubleshooting topics

Detailed causes and remedies for common troubleshooting
topics are described below. Be sure to refer to this before
contacting us.

Upper thread tightened up page 57

Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric page 57

Incorrect thread tension page 58

Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot
be removed

If the thread becomes tangled under the
bobbin winder seat

page 59

page 61

Upper thread tightened up

■ Symptom

• The upper thread appears as a single continuous line.

• The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the
fabric. (Refer to the illustration below.)

• The upper thread has tightened up, and comes out
when pulled.

• The upper thread has tightened up, and wrinkles
appear in the fabric.

• The upper thread tension is tight, and the results do
not change even after the thread tension is adjusted.

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Bobbin thread visible from right side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Right side of fabric
5 Bobbin thread

4

APPENDIX

■ Cause

Incorrect bobbin threading

If the bobbin thread is incorrectly threaded, instead of the
appropriate tension being applied to the bobbin thread, it
is pulled through the fabric when the upper thread is
pulled up. For this reason, the thread is visible from the
right side of the fabric.

■ Remedy/check details

Correctly install the bobbin thread. (page 14)

Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric

■ Symptom

• The thread becomes tangled on the wrong side of the
fabric.

• After starting sewing, a rattling noise is made and
sewing cannot continue.

• Looking under the fabric, there is tangled thread in
the bobbin case.

57

Troubleshooting

a

b

c

d

e

a

f

c

d

e

Note

■ Cause

Incorrect upper threading

If the upper thread is incorrectly threaded, the upper
thread passed through the fabric cannot be firmly pulled
up and the upper thread becomes tangled in the bobbin
case, causing a rattling noise.

■ Remedy/check details

Remove the tangled thread, and then correct the upper
threading.

Remove the tangled thread. If it cannot be removed,

a

cut the thread with scissors.

• For details, refer to “Cleaning the race” on page 55.

Remove the upper thread from the machine.

b

Correct the upper threading by following the

c

instructions in “Threading the upper thread” on
page 15.

• If the bobbin was removed from the bobbin case,
refer to “Installing the bobbin” on page 14 to
correctly install the bobbin.

Incorrect thread tension

■ Cause/remedy/check details

 Cause 1

The machine is not correctly threaded.

<With symptoms 1 and 2 described above>
The bobbin threading is incorrect.
Return the thread tension dial to “4”, and then refer to
“Upper thread tightened up” on page 57 to correct the
threading.

<With symptoms 3 and 5 described above>
The upper threading is incorrect.
Return the thread tension dial to “4”, and then refer to
“Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric” on page 57 to
correct the upper threading.

 Cause 2

A needle and thread appropriate for the fabric are not
being used.

The machine needle that should be used depends on the
type of fabric sewn and the thread thickness.
If a needle and thread appropriate for the fabric are not
being used, the thread tension will not be adjusted
correctly, causing wrinkles in the fabric or skipped
stitches.

• Refer to “Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations” on
page 19 to check that a needle and thread
appropriate for the fabric are being used.

■ Symptoms

• Symptom 1: The bobbin thread is visible from the
right side of the fabric. (Refer to illustration below)

• Symptom 2: The upper thread appears as a straight
line on the right side of the fabric.

• Symptom 3: The upper thread is visible from the
wrong side of the fabric. (Refer to illustration below)

• Symptom 4: The bobbin thread appears as a straight
line on the wrong side of the fabric.

• Symptom 5: The stitching on the wrong side of the
fabric is loose or has slack.

 Symptom 1  Symptom 3

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Bobbin thread visible from right side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Right side of fabric
5 Bobbin thread
6 Upper thread visible from wrong side of fabric

 Cause 3

An appropriate upper tension is not selected.

Select an appropriate thread tension.
Refer to “Adjusting the thread tension” on page 27.
The appropriate thread tension differs depending on the
type of fabric and thread being used.

* Adjust the thread tension while test sewing on a

piece of scrap fabric that is the same as that used in
your project.

• If the upper threading and bobbin threading are
incorrect, the thread tension cannot be adjusted
correctly. Check the upper threading and bobbin
threading first, and then adjust the thread tension.

• If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric

Turn the thread tension dial counterclockwise to
loosen the upper thread tension.

• If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
the fabric
Turn the thread tension dial clockwise to tighten the
upper thread tension.

58

Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot

Note

Note

be removed

If the fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed,
the thread may have become tangled under the needle plate.
Follow the procedure described below to remove the fabric
from the machine. If the operation cannot be completed
according to this procedure, instead of attempting to remove it
forcefully, contact your nearest Brother authorized service
center.

Troubleshooting

Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner mini

i

attachment to remove any lint or dust from the race
and its surrounding area.

1 Cleaning brush
2 Race

a

b

■ Removing the fabric from the machine

Immediately stop the machine.

a

Turn off the machine.

b

Remove the needle.

c

If the needle is lowered into the fabric, turn the
handwheel away from you (clockwise) to raise the
needle out of the fabric, and then remove the needle.

• Refer to “Replacing the Needle” on page 20.

Remove the presser foot and presser foot holder.

d

If the thread is entangled on the presser foot, remove the
entangled thread, and then raise the presser foot lever to
remove the presser foot. Otherwise, the presser foot may
be damaged.

• Refer to “Replacing the Presser Foot” on page 21.

Lift up the fabric and cut the threads below it.

e

If the fabric can be removed, remove it. Continue with
the following steps to clean the race.

Remove the needle plate cover.

f

• Refer to “Cleaning the race” on page 55.

Cut out the tangled threads, and then remove the

g

bobbin.

If the fabric could be removed. Continue with step p.

If the fabric could not be removed. Continue with step j.

• Compressed can air is not recommended to be used.

Use the included disc-shaped screwdriver to loosen the

j

two screws on the needle plate.

• Be careful not to drop the removed screws in the
machine.

Slightly lift up the needle plate, cut any tangled

k

threads, and then remove the needle plate.

Remove the fabric and threads from the needle plate.

4

APPENDIX

Remove the bobbin case.

h

If threads remain in the bobbin case, remove them.

If the fabric cannot be removed, even after completing
these steps, contact your nearest Brother authorized
service center.

59

Troubleshooting

Memo

Note

Note

Remove any threads in the race and around the feed

l

dogs.

Turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.

m

Align the two screw holes in the needle plate with the

n

two holes at the needle plate mounting base, and then
fit the needle plate onto the machine.

Lightly finger-tighten the screw on the right side of the

o

needle plate. Then, use the disc-shaped screwdriver to
firmly tighten the screw on the left side. Finally, firmly
tighten the screw on the right side.

Turn the handwheel to check that the feed dogs move
smoothly and do not contact the edges of the slots in the
needle plate.

a

1 Correct position of feed dogs
2 Incorrect position of feed dogs

b

Insert the bobbin case by following step k in

p

“Cleaning the race” on page 55.

Attach the needle plate cover according to step l in

q

“Cleaning the race” on page 55.

Check the condition of the needle, and then install it.

r

If the needle is in a poor condition, for example, if it is
bent, be sure to install a new needle.

• Refer to “Checking the needle” on page 20 and
“Replacing the needle” on page 20.

• Since the needle may have been damaged when the
fabric was caught in the machine, we recommend
replacing it with a new one.

Slowly turn the handwheel toward you

c

(counterclockwise), and look from all sides to check
that the needle falls at the center of the opening in the
needle plate.

If the needle contacts the needle plate, remove the
needle plate, and then install it again, starting with step

m in “Removing the fabric from the machine” on

page 59.

1 Opening in the needle

plate

a

2 Handwheel

b

Select stitch . At this time, increase the stitch length

d

and width to their maximum settings.

• For details on changing the settings, refer to “Setting
the stitch width” on page 27 and “Setting the stitch
length” on page 27.

Slowly turn the handwheel toward you

e

(counterclockwise) and check that the needle bar and
feed dogs operate correctly.

If the needle or feed dogs contact the needle plate, the
machine may be malfunctioning; therefore, contact
your nearest Brother authorized service center.

Turn off the machine, and then install the bobbin and

f

presser foot.

Never use a scratched or damaged presser foot.
Otherwise, the needle may break, or sewing
performance may suffer.

• Refer to “Installing the bobbin” on page 14 and
“Replacing the presser foot” on page 21.

Correctly thread the machine.

g

• For details on threading the machine, refer to “Upper
Threading” on page 15.

Perform trial sewing with cotton fabric.

h

■ Checking machine operations

If the needle plate has been removed, check machine
operations to confirm that installation has been completed
correctly.

Turn on the machine.

a

Select stitch .

b

• Do not yet install the presser foot and thread.

60

• Incorrect sewing may be the result of incorrect upper
threading or sewing thin fabrics. If there are poor results
from the trial sewing, check the upper threading or the
type of fabric being used.

Troubleshooting

CAUTION

a

If the thread becomes tangled under the
bobbin winder seat

If the bobbin winding starts when the thread is not passed
under the pretension disk of the bobbin-winding thread guide
correctly, the thread may become tangled under the bobbin
winder seat.

• Do not remove the bobbin winder seat even if
the thread become tangled under the bobbin
winder seat. Otherwise, the cutter in the
bobbin winder seat may be damaged.

• Do not remove the screw on the bobbin
winder guide post, otherwise the machine may
be damaged; you cannot wind off the thread
by removing the screw.

1 Screw of the bobbin winder guide post

Stop the bobbin winding.

a

Cut the thread with scissors beside the bobbin-winding

b

thread guide.

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left, and then

c

remove the bobbin from the shaft and cut the thread
leading to the bobbin in order to be able to completely
remove the bobbin from shaft.

Hold the thread end with your left hand, and wind off

d

the thread clockwise from under the bobbin winder
seat with your right hand as shown below.

List of symptoms

Check the following possible problems before requesting
service. If the reference page is “*”, contact your authorized
Brother dealer or the nearest Brother authorized service
center.

■ Getting ready

Symptom, Cause/solution

Cannot thread the needle.

Needle is not in the correct position.

• Press the “Needle position” button to raise the
needle.

Needle is installed incorrectly. 20

Needle is turned, bent or the point is dull. 20

Upper threading is incorrect.
The needle threader lever is not lowered until it
clicks.

The needle threader hook is bent and does not
pass through the eye of the needle.

The needle threader lever cannot be moved or
returned to its original position.

A size 65/9 needle is being used.

• The needle is incompatible with the needle
threader. Manually pass the thread through the
eye of the needle.

Bobbin thread does not wind neatly on the bobbin.

The thread is not passed through the bobbin
winding thread guide correctly.

The thread that was pulled out from the bobbin­winding thread guide was incorrectly wound onto
the bobbin.

Reference

6

15

*

*

17

12

13

4

APPENDIX

The empty bobbin was not set on the pin
properly.

While winding the bobbin, the bobbin thread was
wound below the bobbin winder seat.

The thread was incorrectly passed under the
pretension disk on the bobbin-winding thread
guide.

• Remove any entangled thread, and then wind
the bobbin.

The bobbin thread cannot be pulled up.

Needle is turned, bent or the point is dull. 20

Bobbin is set incorrectly. 14

Nothing appears in the LCD.

Main power switch is not turned on. 9

The plug of the power cord is not inserted into an
electrical outlet.

12

12, 61

9

61

Troubleshooting

1 Notch

a

1 Notch

a

Symptom, Cause/solution

The sewing lamp does not come on.

The sewing light is damaged.

• Contact your authorized Brother dealer or the

nearest Brother authorized service center.

The LCD screen is fogged up.

Condensation has formed on the LCD screen.

• After a while, the cloudiness will disappear.

■ While sewing

Symptom, Cause/solution

Machine does not operate.

“Start/Stop” button was not pressed. 23

The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to the right. 12

There is no stitch selected. 23

Presser foot is not lowered. 24

Reference

–

–

Reference

Symptom, Cause/solution

Bobbin is set incorrectly. 14

Presser foot is attached incorrectly. 21

Screw of the presser foot holder is loose. 22

Fabric is too thick. 19, 30

Fabric is fed forcefully when sewing thick fabric
or thick seams.

Stitch length is too short. 27

Bobbin thread is incorrectly wound. 12

Upper thread breaks.

Machine is not threaded correctly (used the
wrong spool cap, spool cap is loose, the thread
did not catch the needle bar threader, etc.).

Knotted or tangled thread is being used. –

The selected needle is not appropriate for the
thread being used.

Reference

30

15

19

“Start/Stop” button was pressed with the foot
controller attached.

Needle breaks.

Needle is installed incorrectly. 20

Needle clamp screw is not tightened. 20

Needle is turned or bent. 20

Using improper needle or thread for the selected
fabric.

Wrong presser foot was used. 21

Upper thread tension is too tight. 27

Fabric is pulled during sewing. –

Spool of thread is set incorrectly. 12

There are scratches around the opening in the
needle plate.

* There is a notch on the left side of the opening

in the needle plate. This is not a scratch.

24

19

*

Upper thread tension is too tight. 27

Thread is tangled. 57

Needle is turned, bent or the point is dull. 20

Needle is installed incorrectly. 20

There are scratches around the opening of the
needle plate.

* There is a notch on the left side of the opening

in the needle plate. This is not a scratch.

There are scratches around the opening in the
presser foot.

There are scratches on the bobbin case. *

Using improper needle or thread for the selected
fabric.

A bobbin designed specifically for this machine is
not used.

*

*

19

12

There are scratches around the opening in the
presser foot.

There are scratches on the bobbin case. *

A bobbin designed specifically for this machine is
not used.

Upper threading is incorrect. 15

62

*

12

The thread is tangled on the wrong side of the fabric.

Upper threading is incorrect. 15, 58

Using improper needle or thread for the selected
fabric.

19

The upper thread is too tight.

The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed. 14, 57

Troubleshooting

Symptom, Cause/solution

Bobbin thread breaks.

Bobbin is set incorrectly. 14

Bobbin thread is incorrectly wound. 12

A scratched bobbin is being used. 14

Thread is tangled. 59

A bobbin designed specifically for this machine is
not used.

Fabric puckers.

There is a mistake in the upper or bobbin
threading.

Spool of thread is set incorrectly. 12

Using improper needle or thread for the selected
fabric.

Needle is turned, bent or the point is dull. 20

Stitches are too long when sewing thin fabrics. 27

Thread tension is set incorrectly. 27, 58

Wrong presser foot was used. 21

The stitch is not sewn correctly.

The presser foot that is used is not appropriate
for the type of stitch that you wish to sew.

The thread tension is incorrect.

The thread is tangled, for example, in the bobbin
case.

Feed dogs are set in the down position.

• Slide the feed dog position switch to the right

().

Skipped stitches

Machine is threaded incorrectly. 12, 15

Using improper needle or thread for the selected
fabric.

Needle is turned, bent or the point is dull. 20

Needle is installed incorrectly. 20

Reference

12

12, 15

19

21

27, 58

59

5, 48

19

Symptom, Cause/solution

Not stitching

Needle is turned, bent or the point is dull. 20

Bobbin is set incorrectly. 14

Upper threading is incorrect. 15

High-pitched sound while sewing

Dust or lint is caught in the feed dogs. 55

Pieces of thread are caught in the race. 55

Upper threading is incorrect. 15

A bobbin designed specifically for this machine is
not used.

There are needle holes or friction scratches in the
bobbin case.

Fabric does not feed through the machine.

Feed dogs are set in the down position.

• Slide the feed dog position switch to the right

().

Stitches are too close together. 27

Wrong presser foot was used. 21

Needle is turned, bent or the point is dull. 20

Thread is entangled. 59

Zigzag foot “J” is slanted on a thick seam at the
beginning of stitching.

The fabric feeds in the opposite direction.

The feed mechanism is damaged. *

The needle contacts the needle plate.

The needle clamp screw is loose. 20

Needle is turned, bent or the point is dull. 20

Fabric being sewn with the machine cannot be
removed.

Thread is tangled below the needle plate. 59

Reference

12

*

5

30

4

APPENDIX

Dust or lint has collected under the needle plate. 55

Thin or stretch fabrics are being sewn.

• Sew with non-woven water soluble stabilizer
under the fabric.

30

63

Troubleshooting

Symptom, Cause/solution

A broken needle has fallen into the machine.

• Turn off the machine, and remove the needle
plate. If the needle that fell into the machine
can be seen, use tweezers to remove it. After
removing the needle, return the needle plate to
its original position and insert a new needle.
Before turning on the machine, slowly turn the
handwheel toward you to check that it turns
smoothly and that the new needle enters
through the center of the needle plate opening.
If the handwheel does not turn smoothly or the
needle that fell into the machine cannot be
removed, consult your authorized Brother
dealer or the nearest Brother authorized
service center.

The handwheel does not turn smoothly.

Thread is tangled in the bobbin case. 55, 57,

■ After sewing

Symptom, Cause/solution

Reference

59

59

Reference

Symptom, Cause/solution

The thread is tangled, for example, in the bobbin
case.

Reference

55

Thread tension is incorrect.

Upper threading is incorrect. 15, 58

Bobbin is set incorrectly. 14, 58

Using improper needle or thread for the selected
fabric.

Presser foot holder is not attached correctly. 21

Thread tension is set incorrectly. 27, 58

Bobbin thread is incorrectly wound. 14

Needle is turned, bent or the point is dull. 20

A bobbin designed specifically for this machine is
not used.

Decorative stitch patterns are misaligned.

Wrong presser foot was used. 33

Stitch pattern adjustment settings were set
incorrectly.

Stitch pattern is irregular.

19

12

54

Wrong presser foot was used. 21

Thin or stretch fabrics are being sewn.

• Attach stabilizer material to the fabric.

Thread tension is set incorrectly. 27, 58

Fabric was pulled, pushed or fed at an angle
while it was being sewn.

• Sew while guiding the fabric with your hands
so that the fabric is fed in a straight line.

64

30

23

Troubleshooting

Error messages

When erroneous operations are performed messages and advice on operation will be displayed on the LCD. Follow what is
displayed. The error message will disappear if an operation button is pressed or the correct operation is performed while the error
message is displayed.

Error Messages

80/60/50 stitches

models

16 stitches model

This message is displayed when a button,
such as the “Start/Stop” button, is pressed
(The foot controller was depressed if it is
connected.) while the presser foot was
raised.

This message is displayed when the
buttonhole lever is down, a stitch other than a
buttonhole is selected, presser foot is
lowered and a button, such as the “Start/
Stop” button, is pressed (The foot controller
was depressed if it is connected.).

This message is displayed when the
buttonhole lever is up, a buttonhole stitch is
selected, presser foot is lowered and a
button, such as the “Start/Stop” button, is
pressed (The foot controller was depressed if
it is connected.).

This message is displayed when a button,
such as the Reverse stitch button, is pressed
while the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the
right.

Cause Solution

Lower the presser foot lever before
continuing the operation.

Raise the buttonhole lever before continuing
the operation.

Lower the buttonhole lever before continuing
the operation.

Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left
before continuing the operation.

4

APPENDIX

−

−

F* F*

This message is displayed when the “Start/
Stop” button is pressed while the foot
controller is connected.

The motor locked up because the thread
became tangled.

This message is displayed when the needle
mode selection key is pressed while a stitch that
cannot be used with the twin needle is selected.

This message is displayed when (Twin
needle) is turned on, and a stitch pattern that

cannot be sewn with the twin needle is
selected.

This message is displayed when the needle
plate cover is removed while the machine is
still turned on.

If error message “F*” appears in the LCD
while the machine is being used, the machine
may be malfunctioning.

(“*” will be replaced with a number.)

Disconnect the foot controller, and then press
the “Start/Stop” button. Otherwise, operate
the machine by using the foot controller.

Clean the race to remove the tangled thread
(page 55).
After cleaning the race, insert the bobbin
case properly. If the needle is bent or broken,
replace the needle. Then, thread the upper
and bobbin threads properly, and continue
the operation.

Select a stitch that can be used with the twin
needle.

Switch to the single needle mode, and
replace the twin needle with a single needle
before continuing the operation.

Turn off the machine, and then attach the
needle plate cover before continuing the
operation.

Contact your nearest Brother authorized
service center.

Operation beeps

If a correct operation is performed, the machine beeps one time.

If an incorrect operation is performed, the machine beeps two or four times.

If the machine locks up, for example, because the thread is tangled, the machine continues to beep for seven seconds, and then
the machine automatically stops. Be sure to check for the cause of the error, and correct it before continuing to sew.

65

Index

Index

A

Appliqué ...................................................................................... 45

B

Ball point needle .......................................................................... 19

Bar tack stitch
Blind hem stitch
Bobbin
Bobbin case
Bobbin installation
Bobbin thread
Bobbin winding
Bobbin winding thread guide
Button sewing
Buttonhole

.............................................................................. 49

........................................................................... 39

......................................................................................... 12

................................................................................. 56

....................................................................... 14

.............................................................................. 12

........................................................................... 12

....................................................... 12

.............................................................................. 43

................................................................................... 40

C

Cleaning ...................................................................................... 55

Cylindrical pieces

........................................................................ 29

D

Denim ................................................................................. 19, 30

E

Elastic tape ................................................................................... 49

Error messages
Even seam allowance

............................................................................. 65

................................................................... 29

F

Fabric .................................................................................. 19, 30

Fagoting

....................................................................................... 50

Feed dog position switch
Feed dogs
Foot controller
Free motion quilting

...................................................................................... 5

............................................................................. 24

....................................................... 5, 48

..................................................................... 48

H

Heirloom stitching ....................................................................... 53

I

Included accessories ...................................................................... 7

J

Joining ......................................................................................... 51

L

LCD ....................................................................................... 6, 10

Leather

......................................................................................... 31

M

Maintenance ................................................................................ 55

Metallic thread

..................................................................... 12, 17

N

Needle ................................................................................. 19, 20

Needle plate
Needle plate cover
Needle position

.......................................................................... 5, 59

................................................................. 5, 55

........................................................... 10, 11, 29

Needle threader

.......................................................................... 17

O

Operation beep .................................................................... 11, 65

Optional accessories
Overcasting stitches

..................................................................... 8

.................................................................... 38

P

Patchwork ................................................................................... 46

........................................................................................ 46

Piecing
Power supply
Presser foot
Presser foot holder
Pulling up bobbin thread

................................................................................ 9

........................................................... 10, 21, 24, 33

......................................................................... 5

............................................................. 18

Q

Quilting ....................................................................................... 47

Quilting guide

............................................................................. 47

R

Race ............................................................................................ 56

Reinforcement priority
Reinforcement stitch
Reverse stitch

....................................................................... 25, 33

................................................................. 27

............................................................. 25, 33

S

Scallop stitching .......................................................................... 50

Sewing speed controller
Shell tuck stitch
Smocking
Speed
Spool cap
Spool net
Stitch length
Stitch width
Straight stitch
Stretch fabrics

.................................................................................... 50

................................................................................... 13, 24

.................................................................................... 12

..................................................................................... 12

................................................................................ 27

................................................................................. 27

................................................................ 29, 33, 46

.............................................................................. 31

................................................................ 6

........................................................................... 51

T

Thick fabrics ................................................................................ 30

Thin fabrics
Thread
Thread tension
Transparent nylon thread
Troubleshooting
Twin needle

................................................................................. 30

......................................................................................... 19

..................................................................... 27, 58

............................... 12, 13, 17, 19, 34

.......................................................................... 57

................................................................................ 52

U

Upper thread ........................................................................ 15, 19

V

Vinyl fabrics ................................................................................ 31

W

Walking foot ............................................................................... 47

Wing needle

................................................................................ 53

Z

Zigzag stitch ................................................................................ 27

......................................................................................... 44

Zipper

66

Please visit us at http://s.brother/cpjah/ where you can
get the support information (Instruction Videos, FAQs, etc.)
for your Brother product.

To get information about Winding/Installing the Bobbin,
please go to http://s.brother/cvjac/.

To get information about Upper threading, please go to
http://s.brother/cvjad/.

To get information about troubleshooting, please go to
http://s.brother/cfjah/.

Brother SupportCenter is a mobile app that provides the support
information (Instruction Videos, FAQs, etc.) for your Brother product.
Visit the App Store or Google Play™ to download.

English

888-M50/M60/M62/M63

XH1927-2012