Brother Innov-is NS80e User's Guide

Operation Manual
Sewing Machine
Product Code: 888-M50/M60/M62/M63
Be sure to read this document before using the machine. We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.
INTRODUCTION
• This machine is approved for use in the country of purchase only.
Thank you for purchasing this machine. Before using this machine, carefully read the “IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”, and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
DANGER
- To reduce the risk of electrical shock
1Always unplug the machine from the electrical
outlet immediately after using, when cleaning, making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended.
WARNING
- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electrical shock, or injury to persons.
2Always unplug the machine from the electrical
outlet when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
• Always unplug your machine if there is a power failure.
3Electrical Hazards:
• This machine should be connected to an AC power source within the range indicated on the rating label. Do not connect it to a DC power source or converter. If you are not sure what kind of power source you have, contact a qualified electrician.
4Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord
or plug, if it is not working properly, has been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest authorized Brother dealer for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
• While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat, discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine immediately and unplug the power cord.
• When transporting the machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.
• When lifting the machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements, which may cause a personal injury.
5Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot controller.
• Never drop or insert foreign objects in any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
• Do not place this machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise the machine may fall, resulting in injuries.
6Special care is required when sewing:
• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when free motion stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
1
7This machine is not a toy:
SAVE THESE
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• The plastic bag that this machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.
• Do not use outdoors.
8For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the Operation Manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle or other parts to assure correct installation.
INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended
for household use.
FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES EXCEPT CENELEC COUNTRIES
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
9For repair or adjustment:
• If the light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by an authorized Brother dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the Operation Manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in the manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information and updates, visit our website at www.brother.com
FOR USERS IN CENELEC COUNTRIES
This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision.
2
FOR USERS IN THE UK,
EIRE, MALTA
AND CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse
approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with
the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the
plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized Brother dealer to obtain the correct lead.
Trademarks
App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. Android and Google Play are trademarks of Google, Inc. Use of these trademarks are subject to Google Permissions.
3
CONTENTS
CONTENTS
Chapter 1 GETTING READY 5
Names of Machine Parts ....................................... 5
Included accessories .............................................................. 7
Optional accessories .............................................................. 8
Attaching the stitch pattern plate
(For models equipped with the stitch pattern plate) ................ 8
Turning the Machine On/Off................................ 9
LCD Operation ................................................... 10
Changing the Machine Settings........................... 11
Winding/Installing the Bobbin............................ 12
Winding the bobbin ............................................................. 12
Installing the bobbin............................................................. 14
Upper Threading ................................................ 15
Threading the upper thread .................................................. 15
Pulling up the bobbin thread ................................................ 18
Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations.................. 19
Replacing the Needle.......................................... 20
Checking the needle............................................................. 20
Replacing the needle............................................................ 20
Replacing the Presser Foot.................................. 21
Replacing the presser foot .................................................... 21
Removing and attaching the presser foot holder ................... 22
Chapter 2 SEWING BASICS 23
Sewing ................................................................ 23
Basic sewing ........................................................................ 23
Sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches .................................. 25
Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching............................ 25
Reinforcement priority.......................................................... 27
Setting the stitch width/stitch length ..................................... 27
Adjusting the thread tension............................... 27
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................. 28
Sewing Tips.......................................................................... 28
Sewing an even seam allowance.......................................... 29
Sewing Various Fabrics ........................................................ 30
Sewing decorative stitch patterns.......................................... 32
Chapter 4 APPENDIX 55
Care and Maintenance ....................................... 55
Restrictions on oiling........................................................... 55
Precautions on storing the machine ..................................... 55
Cleaning the race................................................................. 55
Troubleshooting ................................................. 57
Upper thread tightened up ................................................... 57
Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric................................ 57
Incorrect thread tension ....................................................... 58
Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed ..... 59
If the thread becomes tangled under the bobbin winder
seat...................................................................................... 61
List of symptoms.................................................................. 61
Error messages..................................................................... 65
Operation beeps.................................................................. 65
Index.................................................................. 66
Chapter 3 VARIOUS STITCHES 33
Stitch Chart ........................................................ 33
Utility stitches .................................................... 38
Overcasting Stitches............................................................. 38
Blind Hem Stitching ............................................................. 39
Buttonhole sewing................................................................ 40
Button sewing ...................................................................... 43
Zipper Insertion.................................................................... 44
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching.............................. 45
Other Stitching Applications................................................. 49
Making adjustments
(For 80/60/50 stitches models)........................... 54
4
Names of Machine Parts
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
k
l
m
j
i
n
o
Chapter 1
GETTING READY
Names of Machine Parts
Main parts
The appearance of the machine differs depending on the model.
p
q
r
s
E Thread tension dial (page 27) F Handwheel
Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to raise and lower the needle to sew one stitch.
G Thread guide cover (page 13) H Handle
Carry the machine by its handle when transporting.
I Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.
J Feed dog position switch
Use the feed dog position switch to raise and lower the feed dogs. (page 48)
K Main power switch (page 9) L Power supply jack (page 9) M Foot controller (page 24) N Foot controller jack (page 24) O Air vent
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the machine is being used.
Needle and presser foot section
i
a
h
1
GETTING READY
b
y
x
u
v
w
1 Bobbin winding thread guide and pretension disk
(page 13)
2 Thread guide (page 13) 3 Spool cap (page 12) 4 Spool pin (page 12) 5 Hole for extra spool pin
This holds an extra spool pin for sewing with the twin needle. (page 52) This is not a hole for lubrication. Do not insert oil into this hole.
6 Bobbin winder (page 12) 7 LCD (liquid crystal display) (page 10) 8 Operation keys (page 6)
9 Stitch pattern display window (page 23)
0 Stitch pattern selection dial (page 23) A Operation buttons and sewing speed controller
B Flat bed attachment (page 7, 29) C Thread cutter (page 17) D Needle threader lever (page 17)
The operation keys differ depending on the model.
(Equipped on 16 stitches model)
(page 6)
t
g
f
e
1 Needle bar thread guide (page 16) 2 Needle plate (page 29) 3 Needle plate cover (page 14) 4 Bobbin cover/bobbin case (page 14, 56) 5 Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
6 Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitch.
7 Presser foot holder (page 22) 8 Presser foot holder screw (page 22) 9 Buttonhole lever (page 42)
d
c
5
Names of Machine Parts
e
a
b
d
c
Operation buttons
b
a
cd e
1 “Start/Stop” button
Press the “Start/Stop” button to start or stop sewing.
2 Reverse stitch button
Press the reverse button to sew reverse or reinforcement stitches depending on the selected stitch pattern.
3 Reinforcement stitch button
Press the reinforcement button to sew a single stitch repeatedly and tie-off. (page 25) For decorative stitches, press this button to end with a full stitch instead of at a mid-point. The LED beside the button automatically lights up while the stitch is being sewn and goes off when sewing is finished. (For models equipped with the LED)
4 Needle position button
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
5 Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.
Operation panel and operation keys
The appearance of the machine differs depending on the model.
1 LCD (liquid crystal display)
Selected stitch pattern settings and messages are displayed. (page 10)
2 Stitch length keys
Press the stitch length keys to adjust the stitch length. (page 27)
3 Stitch width keys
Press the stitch width keys to adjust the stitch width. (page 27)
4 Needle mode selection key (single/twin)
(Equipped on 80/60/50 stitches models)
Press the needle mode selection key to use the twin needle. Each press of this key switches between the twin needle mode and the single needle mode. (page 52)
5 Automatic reverse/reinforcement key
Press the automatic reverse/reinforcement key to use the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching function. (page 25)
6
Names of Machine Parts
Note
J
G
I
M
A
*2*1
N
Included accessories
Included accessories may differ from the table below depending on the machine model you purchased. For more details on included accessories and their part codes of your machine, refer to the additional sheet “Included Accessories”.
Pull the top of the flat bed attachment to open the accessory compartment.
Included accessories
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
R
Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) Overcasting foot “G” Zipper foot “I” Blind stitch foot “R” Button fitting foot “M” Buttonhole foot “A”
7. 8. 9. 10. 11.
1
GETTING READY
Needle set (A needle set of the two is included with this machine.)
12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.
Disc-shaped screwdriver Screwdriver (large) Extra spool pin Spool cap (large) Spool cap (medium)
18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23.
Spool net Bobbin case
*1
75/11 2 needles, 90/14 2 needles, 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)
*2
75/11 1 needle, 90/14 1 needle, 100/16 1 needle
• (For U.S.A. only) Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code 888-M50/M60/M62/M63. The product code is mentioned on the machine rating plate.
(on machine)
Twin needle 2/11 needle
Foot controller Accessory bag Operation Manual Quick Reference Guide
Bobbin (4) (One bobbin is on machine.)
Seam ripper Cleaning brush
(on machine)
Spool cap (small)
Accessories included depending on the model
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Monogramming foot “N” Eyelet punch Screwdriver (small) Stitch pattern plate Stitch pattern plate holder
7
Names of Machine Parts
Memo
Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately.
1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
P
7. 8. 9.
10. 11.
• To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your authorized Brother dealer or visit our site http:// s.brother/cpjah/.
• All specifications are correct at the time of printing. Please be aware that some specifications may change without notice.
• A variety of feet are available to enable different types of stitching and finishes. Visit your nearest authorized Brother dealer or our site http://s.brother/cpjah/
for a complete listing of optional accessories available for your machine.
• Always use accessories recommended for this machine.
Attaching the stitch pattern plate (For models equipped with the stitch pattern plate)
The stitch pattern plate shows the stitches and the stitch numbers. Attach the stitch pattern plate to the stitch pattern plate holder, and then attach the stitch pattern plate holder to the handle of the sewing machine as shown in the illustration below.
No. Part Name
1. Quilting foot SA129 F005N:
2. Walking foot SA140 F033N:
3. Quilting guide SA132 F016N:
4. Side cutter “S” SA177 F054:
5. Adjustable zipper/
piping foot
6. Stitch guide foot “P”
7. Non stick foot SA114 F007N:
8. Open toe foot SA186 F060:
9. 1/4" piecing foot SA125 F001N:
10. 1/4" piecing foot
with guide
11. Wide table SAWT5 WT15:
Americas Europe Others
SA161 F036N:
SA160 F035N:
SA185 F057:
Part Code
XC1948-052
XG6623-001
XC2215-052
XC3879-152
XC1970-052
XG6609-001
XC1949-052
XG6687-001
XC1944-052
XC7416-252
XG8750-001
F005N
F033N F033CN
F016N F016CN
F054 F054CN
F036N
F035N
F007N F007CN
F060
F001N
F057
WT15AP WT15CN
(For models equipped with the hard case)
When storing the machine, the stitch pattern plate can be hung from the hard case.
8
Turning the Machine On/Off
WARNING
CAUTION
1
2
Turning the Machine On/Off
• Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
• Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power cord receptacle on the machine. Otherwise, a fire or electric shock may result.
• Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
• Turn the main power to OFF and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly
due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
•(For U.S.A. only) This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized electrical outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the electrical outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper electrical outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
Make sure that the machine is turned off (the main
a
power switch is set to “ ”), and then plug the power cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine.
Insert the plug of the power cord into a household
b
electrical outlet.
1
GETTING READY
• Use only the power cord included with this machine.
• Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with any other appliances plugged into them. Fire or electric shock may result.
• Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
• When unplugging the machine, always turn the main power to OFF first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the electrical outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
• Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord, or cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized Brother dealer for repairs before continuing use.
• Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise, a fire may result.
1 Power supply jack 2 Main power switch
Press the right side of the main power switch on the
c
right side of the machine to turn the machine on (set it to “I”).
The light for working area and LCD will light up
when the machine is turned on. The needle and the feed dogs will make a sound when they move; this is not a malfunction.
To turn off the machine, press the left side of the main
d
power switch (set it to “ ”).
9
LCD Operation
Memo
ba c d
f e
c d
f e
1 Stitch number 2 Presser foot
a
b
LCD Operation
When the machine is turned on, the LCD will light up and the following screen is displayed.
To change the displayed settings, use the operation keys and stitch pattern selection dial.
The LCD differs depending on the model.
No. Display Item Name Explanation Page
1 Presser foot Shows the symbol for the presser foot to be used. Before sewing, attach one of the
presser feet shown here.
Zigzag foot “J” Buttonhole foot “A”
21
Monogramming foot “N” Blind stitch foot “R”
Overcasting foot “G”
* The symbols for certain presser feet, such as zipper foot “I” and the quilting foot,
may not appear in the screen.
2 Stitch number Shows the number of the currently selected stitch pattern. 33 3 Needle position setting Shows whether the needle is in the programmed raised or lowered position. In
4 Stitch length Shows the stitch length of the currently selected stitch pattern. 27
5 Stitch width Shows the stitch width of the currently selected stitch pattern. 27
6 Automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitching
addition, shows whether the single needle mode or twin needle mode is selected. (The twin needle mode indicator appears only on models equipped with the needle mode selection key.)
: Single needle/down position : Twin needle/down position
: Single needle/up position : Twin needle/up position
Shows the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is currently turned on. 25
11
• On models without the stitch number and the presser foot displayed in the LCD, the stitch number and presser foot are shown in the stitch pattern display window.
10
Changing the Machine Settings
Memo
Memo
Memo
CAUTION
Changing the Machine Settings
Turning on/off the buzzer
The buzzer can be turned off.
Changing the needle stop position
The needle position when stitching is finished can be changed from the down position to the up position.
Press the needle position button and hold for
a
approximately 3 seconds.
The machine beeps twice, and the needle stop
position changes to the up position.
Press and hold “–” stitch width key while turning on
a
the machine.
The machine starts up with no beep, and the buzzer
is turned off.
• When the same operation is performed, the machine beeps once, and the buzzer is turned on.
• When the needle stop position or initial needle position is changed, the machine will beep, even if the buzzer has been turned off.
1
GETTING READY
• When the same operation is performed, the machine beeps once, and the needle stop position changes to the down position.
• When this setting is changed, the machine beeps, even if the buzzer is turned off.
Changing the initial needle position (For 80/ 60/50 stitches models)
The stitch automatically selected when the machine is turned on can be changed from “1 Straight stitch (Left)” to “3 Straight stitch (Middle)”.
Press and hold the “–” stitch length key while turning
a
on the machine.
The machine beeps once, and the initial needle
position changes to “3 Straight stitch (Middle)”.
• When the same operation is performed, the machine beeps once, and the initial needle position changes to “1 Straight stitch (Left)”.
• When this setting is changed, the machine beeps, even if the buzzer is turned off.
11
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
CAUTION
Memo
2
1
CAUTION
Memo
1 Spool cap (small) 2 Spool (cross-wound
thread)
3 Space
2
1
3
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
• Only use the plastic bobbin that comes with
this machine or bobbins of the same type (SA156/SFB: XA5539-151/SFB). The bobbin's height is 11.5 mm (approx. 7/16 inch). Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine. SA156 is Class 15 type bobbin.
• Bobbins previously manufactured may not
have the “b” mark on the bobbin. However, they can be used with this machine if they are the same type (SA156/SFB: XA5539-151/SFB).
Winding the bobbin
This section describes how to wind thread onto a bobbin.
Remove the spool cap and place the spool of thread for
b
the bobbin onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the spool pin so that the thread unwinds to the front from the bottom. Otherwise the thread may become tangled around the spool pin.
1
1 The thread unwinds to the front from the bottom.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
c
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as shown, with the rounded side on the left.
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so that the
a
notch in the bobbin aligns with the spring on the shaft, and then slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right until it snaps into place.
1 Notch in the
bobbin
2 Bobbin winder
shaft spring
• Checking the installation orientation of the bobbin will be helpful in later procedures. By placing the bobbin into the bobbin case in the same orientation that it was on the bobbin winder shaft, the bobbin can be installed with the correct winding direction of the bobbin thread.
• If the spool or the spool cap is not installed correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin, causing the needle to break.
• Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the machine may be damaged. For more information, refer to “Memo” on page 12.
• When using the spool as shown below, use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool.
The “b” mark on one side of the bobbin included with this machine can be used as a reference.
12
• When using thread that winds off quickly, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool.
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
Note
Note
CAUTION
1
2
3
Memo
Note
CAUTION
Pass the thread under the thread guide, then under the
d
thread guide cover and to the front.
a
1 Thread guide 2 Thread guide cover
Pass the thread under the hook on the bobbin winding
e
thread guide, and then wind it counterclockwise under the pretension disk.
1 Bobbin winding thread guide 2 Pretension disk 3 Pull it in as far as possible
b
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the bobbin
g
winding speed. Slide the controller to the right to increase the speed; slide it to the left to reduce the speed.
• We recommend winding stretch thread, such as transparent nylon thread, at a low speed since the thread may stretch.
Turn on the machine.
h
Press the “Start/Stop” button once to start winding the
i
bobbin. When the foot controller is plugged in, press down on the foot controller.
1
GETTING READY
• Make sure that the thread is passed under the pretension disk.
Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin 5 or 6
f
times, pass the thread through the guide slit in the bobbin winder seat, and then pull the thread to cut it.
a
1 Guide slit in bobbin winder seat
(with built-in cutter)
• Be sure to wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin, otherwise the thread will become wrapped around the bobbin winder shaft.
• Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the guide slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.
• When winding transparent nylon thread on the bobbin, stop bobbin winding when the bobbin is 1/2 to 2/3 full. If the bobbin was fully wound with transparent nylon thread, it may not be wound neatly, or sewing performance may suffer. In addition, extreme pressure may be applied to the bobbin, it may not be possible to remove the bobbin from the bobbin winder shaft, or the bobbin may break.
When the bobbin winding becomes slow, press the
j
“Start/Stop” button once to stop the machine. When the foot controller is plugged in, remove your foot from the foot controller.
• When the bobbin winding becomes slow, stop the machine, otherwise the machine may be damaged.
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left
k
until it snaps into place, and then remove the bobbin.
13
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
Memo
CAUTION
Memo
CAUTION
Slide the sewing speed controller to desired sewing
l
speed position.
Remove the spool for the bobbin thread from the spool
m
pin.
Installing the bobbin
Install the bobbin wound with thread. You can begin sewing immediately without pulling up the bobbin thread by simply inserting the bobbin in the bobbin case and guiding the thread through the slit in the needle plate cover.
• If the threads will be pulled to create gathers or the thread at the beginning of sewing will be finished, for example, when free motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread. For details, refer to “Pulling up the bobbin thread” on page 18.
Place the bobbin in the bobbin case so that the thread
f
unwinds to the left.
• For the correct winding direction of the bobbin thread, be sure to place the bobbin into the bobbin case in the same orientation that it was on the bobbin winder shaft.
The “b” mark on one side of the bobbin included with this machine can be used as a reference.
• Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound with thread, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.
• Before inserting or changing the bobbin, be sure to turn off the machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any other button is pressed and the machine starts operating.
Turn on the machine.
a
Press (Needle position button) once or twice to
b
raise the needle.
Turn off the machine.
c
Raise the presser foot lever.
d
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right and remove
e
the bobbin cover.
Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right hand
g
(1), and then guide the end of the thread around the tab of the needle plate cover with your left hand (2).
1 Tab
• Be sure to hold down the bobbin with your finger and unwind the bobbin thread correctly, otherwise the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.
14
While lightly holding down the bobbin with your right
Memo
Memo
Memo
CAUTION
Note
h
hand (1), guide the thread through the slit in the needle plate cover (2) and lightly pull it with your left hand (3).
Upper Threading
Upper Threading
1
• By guiding the thread around the tab of the needle plate
cover, passing the thread as shown by 2 in this illustration, then lightly pulling the thread at 3, the thread will enter the tension spring of the bobbin case to apply the appropriate tension to the bobbin thread during sewing.
While lightly holding down the bobbin with your right
i
hand (1), continue guiding the thread through the slit with your left hand (2). Then, cut the thread with the cutter (3).
• When threading the upper thread, carefully
follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
• Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.
• Use the needle and the thread in the correct
combination. (page 19)
Threading the upper thread
When threading the upper thread, carefully follow
the instructions.
GETTING READY
• Be sure to complete the bobbin threading correctly according to these instructions. If the thread is simply placed in the slit in the needle plate cover, the bobbin thread will not be correctly threaded, resulting in poor sewing performance or incorrect thread tension.
Reattach the bobbin cover.
j
Insert the tab of the bobbin cover into the notch of the needle plate cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.
• You can begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up the thread according to the procedure in “Pulling up the bobbin thread” on page 18.
Turn on the machine.
a
Raise the presser foot lever to raise the presser foot.
b
• If the presser foot is not raised, the machine cannot be threaded.
15
Upper Threading
CAUTION
CAUTION
1
Press (Needle position button) once or twice to
c
raise the needle.
The needle is correctly raised when the mark on the
handwheel is at the top, as shown below. Check the
handwheel and, if this mark is not at this position, press (Needle position button) until it is.
Turn off the machine.
d
• Before threading the needle, be sure to turn off the machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any other button is pressed, causing the machine to start operating.
Pass the thread under the thread guide, then under the
g
thread guide cover and to the front.
Hold the thread with your right hand so that there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out, and then pass the thread under the thread guide cover with your left hand.
a
1 Thread guide 2 Thread guide cover
Pass the thread through the thread channel in the order
h
shown below.
b
Remove the spool cap and place the spool of thread
e
onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the spool pin so that the thread unwinds to the front from the bottom. Otherwise the thread may become tangled around the spool pin.
1 The thread unwinds to the front from the bottom.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
f
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as shown, with the rounded side on the left.
• Choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. For more information regarding the choice of spool caps for your thread choice, refer to “Memo” on page 12.
Make sure that the thread is passed into the thread
i
take-up lever as shown below.
Slide the thread behind the needle bar thread guide.
j
The thread can easily be slid behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand, as shown. Make sure that the thread is passed through to the left of the tab of the needle bar thread guide.
1 Needle bar thread
2
1
guide
2 Tab
• If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break.
16
Upper Threading
Note
Note
Check that the needle and thread are compatible with
k
the needle threader. If they are compatible, continue with the next step.
• The needle threader can be used with machine needles 75/11 through 100/16.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle.
• When thread such as transparent nylon monofilament or specialty threads are used, it is not recommended to use the needle threader.
• If the needle threader cannot be used, insert the thread through the eye of the needle from front to back by hand. At this time, be sure that the machine has been turned off as described in step
Pull the end of the thread, which has been passed
l
through the needle bar thread guide, to the left, pass the thread under the notch, and then firmly pull the thread to fully insert it from front to back into the slit of the thread guide disk (marked “7”).
d.
Lower the presser foot lever to lower the presser foot.
n
Lower the needle threader lever on the left side of the
o
machine as much as possible to make the hook turn.
After the threader thread guide disk is lowered (1), the hook turns (2).
1
2
1
GETTING READY
2
1
1 Notch of the threader thread guide 2 Threader thread guide disk
Cut the thread with the thread cutter on the left side of
m
the machine.
• If the thread is pulled through and cannot be cut correctly, lower the presser foot lever so that the thread is held in place before cutting the thread. If this operation is performed, proceed to step
• When using thread that quickly winds off the spool, such as metallic thread, it may be difficult to thread the needle if the thread is cut. Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter, pull out about 8 cm (approx. 3 inches) of thread after passing it through the threader thread guide disk (marked “7”).
o.
3
1 Needle threader lever 2 Needle 3 Hook
• If the needle is not raised to it's highest position, the needle threader cannot thread the needle. Turn handwheel counterclockwise until the needle is at its highest position. The needle is correctly raised when the mark on the handwheel is at the top, as shown under
c on page 15.
step
Raise the needle threader lever slowly.
p
Carefully pull the end of thread that was passed
q
through the eye of the needle.
If the needle was not completely threaded, but a loop in the thread was formed in the eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.
17
Upper Threading
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the thread
r
through and under the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (approx. 2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.
Turn on the machine.
s
Pulling up the bobbin thread
If the threads will be pulled to create gathers or the thread at the beginning of sewing will be finished, for example, when free motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread.
Refer to “Threading the upper thread” on page 15 to
a
thread the machine with the upper thread and thread the needle.
Follow steps a to f “Installing the bobbin” on
b
page 14 for installing the bobbin and to insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.
Pull up the bobbin thread, pass it under the presser
g
foot and pull it about 10 cm (4 inches) toward the back of the machine, making it even with the upper thread.
Reattach the bobbin cover.
h
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
c
Do not cut the thread with the cutter, otherwise it will be difficult to pull up the bobbin thread.
Turn on the machine.
d
While lightly holding the upper thread with your left
e
hand, press (Needle position button) twice to lower
and then raise the needle.
The bobbin thread is looped around the upper thread
and can be pulled up.
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull out the
f
end of the bobbin thread.
18
Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations
CAUTION
Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations
• Needles that can be used with this machine: Home sewing machine needles (size 65/9 - 100/16) * The larger the number, the larger the needle. As the numbers decrease, the needles get finer.
• Thread that can be used with this machine: 30 - 90 weight * Never use thread of 20 weight or lower. It may cause machine to malfunction. * The smaller the number, the heavier the thread. As the numbers increase, the thread gets finer.
• The machine needle and thread that should be used depends on the type and thickness of the fabric. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
- The combinations shown in the table provide a general guideline. Be sure to sew trial stitches on the actual number of
layers and type of fabric to be used in your project.
- The machine needles are consumables. For safety and best results, we recommend replacing the needle regularly. For
details on when to replace the needle, refer to “Checking the needle” on page 20.
• In principle, use a fine needle and thread with lightweight fabrics, and a larger needle and heavier thread with heavyweight fabrics.
• Select a stitch appropriate for the fabric, and then adjust the stitch length. When sewing lightweight fabrics, make the stitch length finer (shorter). When sewing heavyweight fabrics, make the stitch length coarser (longer). (page 27) When sewing stretch fabrics, refer to “Sewing stretch fabrics” on page 31.
1
GETTING READY
Fabric Type/Application
Lightweight fabrics
Medium weight fabrics
Heavyweight fabrics
Stretch fabrics (knit fabrics, etc.)
For top-stitching
Lawn, georgette, challis, organdy, crepe, chiffon, voile, gauze, tulle, lining, etc.
Broadcloth, taffeta, gabardine, flannel, seersucker, double gauze, linen, terry cloth, waffle weave, sheeting, poplin, cotton twill, satin, quilting cotton, etc.
Denim (12 ounces or more), canvas, etc.
Denim (12 ounces or more), canvas, tweed, corduroy, velour, melton wool, vinyl-coated fabric, etc.
Jersey, tricot, T-shirt fabric, fleece, interlock, etc.
Cotton thread,
Cotton thread,
Cotton thread
Cotton thread,
Polyester thread,
Cotton thread,
Polyester thread,
Cotton thread
Thread
Type Weight
Polyester
thread
Silk thread
Polyester
thread
Silk thread
Polyester
thread,
Polyester
thread
Silk thread
Silk thread
60 - 90
50 - 80
60 - 90
50 - 60
30 100/16
60
30 - 50
50
30 90/14 - 100/16
50 - 60 75/11 - 90/14
Transparent nylon thread
Use a home sewing machine topstitching needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.
Size of needle
65/9 - 75/11
75/11 - 90/14
90/14 - 100/16
Ball point needle
75/11 - 90/14
Stitch length
mm (inch)
Fine stitches
1.8-2.5
(1/16-3/32)
Regular stitches
2.0-3.0
(1/16-1/8)
Coarse stitches
2.5-4.0
(3/32-3/16)
Setting appropriate for
the fabric thickness
Setting appropriate for
the fabric thickness
Sewing decorative stitch patterns (needles and threads)
When sewing lightweight, medium weight or stretch fabrics, use a ball point needle (gold colored) 90/14. When sewing heavyweight fabrics, use a home sewing machine needle 90/14. In addition, #50 to #60 thread should be used.
• The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the preceding table. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing heavy fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.
19
Replacing the Needle
CAUTION
Note
1 2
c
d
e
CAUTION
CAUTION
1
Replacing the Needle
• Only use recommended home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Checking the needle
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.
1 Flat side 2 Needle type marking 3 Flat surface 4 Even 5 Not even
Turn off the machine.
c
• Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any other button is pressed and the machine starts operating.
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then use a
d
screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw toward you (counterclockwise) to remove the needle.
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the machine may be damaged.
With the flat side of the needle toward the rear of the
e
machine, insert the new needle until it touches the needle stopper. Using the screwdriver, tighten the needle clamp screw by turning it clockwise.
• The machine needles are consumables. Replace the needle in cases such as those described below.
- If an unusual sound is produced when the needle
enters the fabric. (The tip of the needle may be broken or dull.)
- If stitches are skipped. (The needle may be bent.)
- Generally, after completing one project, such as a
piece of clothing.
Replacing the needle
Use the screwdriver and a new needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle” on page 20.
Press (Needle position button) once or twice to
a
raise the needle.
Place fabric or paper under the presser foot to cover
b
the hole in the needle plate to prevent the needle from falling into the machine.
1 Needle stopper
• Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.
Turn on the machine.
f
20
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