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Instruction Manual
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
ESSENTIAL PARTS
Names of Parts 6
Standard Accessories 7
Dust cover 7
Sewing table 8
Accessory box 8
Free arm Sewing 8
GETTING READY TO SEW
Connecting the Power Supply 9
Controlling the Sewing Speed 9
Presser foot lever 10
Changing the Presser Foot 10
Attaching and removing the presser foot holder 10
Changing the needle 11
Fabric and Needle Chart 11
Setting Spool Pins 12
Removing or Inserting the Bobbin Case 12
Winding the Bobbin 13
Threading the Bobbin Case 13
Threading the Machine 14
Needle threader 14
Drawing Up Bobbin Thread 15
Thread tension dial 15
Stitch pattern selector knob 16
Stitch length knob 16
Stitch width knob 16
Reverse sewing lever 17
Lowering and raising the feed dog 17
UTILITY STITCHES
Zigzag 19
Overcasting 20
3-step zigzag 20
Stretch-Overlock Stitch 21
Triple straight stitch 21
Triple zigzag 22
Sewing Buttons 22
Automatic Buttonhole 23
Buttonhole with cord 25
Zipper Application 26
Blindstitch 27
Rolled Hem 28
DECORATIVE STITCHING
Vari-Overlock (scallop hem) 29
Smocking 29
Appliqué 30
Stretch Stitch Patterns 30
CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Cleaning the Bobbin Case and the Shuttle Race 31
Dismantling Shuttle Race Unit 31
Assembling Shuttle Race Unit 31
Oiling 32
Cleaning the feed dog 32
Troubleshooting 33
STITCH PATTERN
Overview 34
BASIC SEWING
Straight stitch 18
Changing the Sewing Direction 18
Seam Guide Lines 19
Turning a Square Corner 19
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IMPORTANT
The following basic safety precautions must
be observed when operating an electrical
device:
Please read the instruction manual carefully
before using this machine.
Keep the instruction manual at a suitable
place with the machine and hand it over if you
give the machine to a third party.
When the machine is not in use or left
unattended, always disconnect the
machine from the power supply system.
Unplug it from the outlet.
DANGER!
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. Never leave the machine unattended
when it is plugged in.
2. Always unplug this machine from the
electric outlet immediately after using
and before cleaning.
3. LED RADIATION: Do not look directly at
the LED using an optical instrument.
WARNING!
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock
or injury to persons:
1. The machine mustn’t be used by children under 8 or by people with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities
or if there is a lack of experience and
knowledge how to operate the machine.
Unless they have been given instruction
concerning the use of the machine and
the involved risks by a person who is
responsible for their safety.
2. Do not use this machine as a toy. Close
attention is necessary when this machine
is used by children, near children or
people with reduced sensation.
3. Use this machine only for its intended
use as described in this manual. Use
only accessories recommended by the
manufacturer.
4. Children should be supervised to ensure
that they do not play with the machine.
5. Never operate this machine if it has a
damaged cord or plug, if it is not working
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properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the
machine to the nearest authorized dealer
or service centre for examination, repair,
electrical or mechanical adjustment.
6. Never operate the machine with any air
openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and the foot control
free from accumulation of lint, dust, and
loose cloth.
7. Keep fingers away from all moving parts.
Special care is required around the
machine needle.
8. Always use the proper stitch plate. Using
the wrong stitch plate can result in needle breakage.
9. Do not use bent needles.
10. Do not pull or push the fabric while sewing. This can result in needle breakage.
11. Switch the machine off (“O”) when making any adjustments in the needle area,
such as threading or changing the needle, threading the bobbin, or changing
the presser foot, and the like.
12. Always unplug the machine when performing cleaning or maintenance worksuch as replacing the sewing light or
when making any other user maintenance adjustments mentioned in the
instruction manual (disconnect the power
plug). Cleaning and maintenance work
must not be carried out by children without supervision.
13. Never drop or insert any object into any
openings.
14. Use this machine only in dry and protected areas. Never operate the machine
in a damp or wet environment.
15. Do not operate the machine where aerosol spray products are being used or
where oxygen is being administered.
16. To disconnect, turn the power switch to
(“O”)(off), then remove the plug from the
outlet. Do not unplug by pulling the cord,
instead grasp the plug to pull it from the
outlet.
17. If the supply cord of the foot control is
damaged, it must be replaced by the
manufacturer or an appropriate service
agent or a similar qualified person in
order to avoid endangerment.
18. Never place anything on the foot control.
19. The machine may only be used in combination with a type C-1028 (100-120 V)
or KD-2902 (220-240 V) foot control.
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20. The sound pressure level during normal
operation is lower than 75dB(A).
21. This machine is provided with double
insulation (except U.S.A/Canada). Use
only identical replacement parts. See
instructions for Servicing of double-insulated products.
SERVICING OF DOUBLE-INSULATED
PRODUCTS
All rights reserved
For technical and product improvement reasons, the machine‘s features, parts and accessory are subject to unannounced changes
and alterations at any time. The accessory
included can differ from country to country.
PLEASE NOTE:
If the machine is stored in a cold room, it should
be brought to a warm room about one hour
before use.
In a double-insulated product, two systems of
insulation are provided instead of grounding.
No grounding means is provided on a doubleinsulated product nor should a means for
grounding be added to the product. Servicing
a double-insulated product requires extreme
care and knowledge of the system and should
only be done by qualified service personnel.
Replacement parts for a double-insulated
product must be identical to those parts in the
product. A double insulated product is marked
with the words «DOUBLE INSULATION» or
«DOUBLE INSULATED».
The symbol may also be marked on the
product.
WARNING:
This machine is intended for household use
only. If used intensively or commercially, regular cleaning and especially attentive care is
required.
Signs of wear and tear owing to intensive or
commercial use are not covered automatically,
even if they occur within the warranty period.
The decision on how to deal with any such
cases rests with the local authorised servicing
staf f.
Please note that on disposal, this product
must be safely recycled in accordance with
relevant National legislation relating to electrical/electronic products. If in doubt please
contact your retailer for guidance. (European
Union only)
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS!
Europe only: This appliance may only be used by
children over eight and by persons with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities or by persons who lack experience and knowledge of how
to operate the machine under supervision, after
instruction on how to use the equipment safely and
once they have understood the potential dangers.
Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by
children without supervision.
Outside of Europe (except for the USA and Canada): This appliance may only be used by persons
(including children) with reduced physical, sensory
or mental capabilities or by persons who lack
experience and knowledge of how to operate the
machine under supervision and after instruction
on how to use the equipment safely by a person
responsible for their safety. Children should be
supervised to ensure that they do not play with the
appliance.
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ESSENTIAL PARTS
Names of Parts
Reverse sewing lever
Stitch pattern selector knob
Stitch length knob
Stitch width knob
Bobbin winder stopper
Bobbin winder spindle
Spool pin
Bobbin winder pre-tension
Thread guide
Thread take-up lever
Thread tension dial
Head cover
Thread cutter
Needle threader
Stitch plate
Sewing table (accessory box)
Presser foot holder
Needle clamp screw
Needle
Presser foot (Zigzag foot)
Carrying handle
Handwheel
Power switch
Power/Foot control connection
Free arm
Buttonhole lever
Presser foot lever
Foot control*
PLEASE NOTE:
To carry the sewing machine, hold the carrying
handle with your hand, and support the sewing
machine with the other hand.
PLEASE NOTE:
Design and specifications are subject to change
without prior notice.
* The foot control included may differ from the illustration.
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Standard Accessories
Bobbins (4x)
Seam ripper (buttonhole opener)
Screwdriver (large)
Screwdriver (small)
Needle assortment
Hemmer foot
Zipper foot
Satin stitch foot
Button-sew-on foot
Blindstitch foot
Buttonhole foot with slide
More information on optional accessories can be found
on our website:
http://www.mybernette.com/accessories
Dust cover
Sewing instructions for your own personalized dust
cover are available at:
www.mybernette.com/cover
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Sewing table
The sewing table increases the sewing area and is easy
to remove for freehand sewing.
• Removing the sewing table:
Pull the table away from the machine.
Sewing table
• Attaching the sewing table:
Slide the sewing table along the free arm and insert the
guides into the openings until the table locks into the
machine.
Free arm
Guide
Hole
Accessory box
The accessories are stored inside the sewing table.
Unfold the cover to open the accessory box.
Accessory box
Free arm Sewing
Free arm sewing is used for stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant legs or any other tubular garments. It is also
useful for darning socks or mending knees or elbows.
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GETTING READY TO SEW
Connecting the Power Supply
Switch off the power switch.
Insert the machine plug into the Power/Foot control
connection.
Insert the power supply plug into the wall outlet.
Turn the power switch on.
Power supply plug
Power switch
Wall outlet
Power/Foot control connection
Machine plug
CAUTION:
Before connecting to the power supply, make sure
the voltage shown on the machine conforms to
your electrical power.
WARNING:
While in operation, always keep your eyes on the
sewing area, and do not touch any moving parts
such as the thread take-up lever, handwheel or
needle.
Always turn off the power switch and unplug from
the power supply:
- when leaving the machine unattended.
- when attaching or removing parts.
- when cleaning the machine.
Do not place anything on the foot control, otherwise the machine will run intermittently.
Controlling the Sewing Speed
Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.
The harder you depress the foot control, the faster the
machine runs.
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Presser foot lever
The presser foot lever raises and lowers the presser foot.
You can raise it about 1/4˝ (0.6 cm) higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot, or
to help you place heavy fabric under the foot.
Lowered position
Normal up position
Highest position
Changing the Presser Foot
CAUTION:
Turn OFF the power switch before changing the
foot. Always use the foot that corresponds to the
selected stitch. The wrong foot can cause the
needle to break.
Presser foot release lever
Groove
Pin
• To remove:
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle bar
to its highest position.
Raise the presser foot.
Push the presser foot release lever to snap off the
presser foot holder.
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• To attach:
Place the presser foot so that the pin on the foot lines up
directly below the groove of the presser foot holder.
Lower the presser foot.
Attaching and removing the presser
foot holder
CAUTION:
Turn OFF the power switch before changing the
presser foot holder.
Setscrew
Presser foot holder
Threaded hole
• To remove:
Remove the setscrew by turning it counterclockwise with
a screwdriver.
• To attach:
Match the hole in the presser foot holder with the
threaded hole in the presser bar. Fit the setscrew into
the hole. Tighten the screw by turning it clockwise with
screwdriver.
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Changing the needle
CAUTION:
Always make sure to turn the power switch off and
disconnect the machine from power supply before
changing the needle.
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you
and lower the presser foot.
Switch off the power switch.
Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it coun-
terclockwise.
Remove the needle from the clamp.
Insert a new needle into the needle clamp with the
flat side of the needle to the rear.
When inserting the needle into the needle clamp,
push it up against the stopper pin and tighten the
needle clamp screw firmly.
• To check the needle:
To check needle straightness, place the flat side of the
needle onto something flat (a stitch plate, glass etc.) The
gap between the needle and the flat surface should be
consistent.
Never use a blunt needle.
Fabric Thread Needle
Lawn
Fine
Medium
weight
Heavy
weight
Georgette
Tricot
Organza
Crepe
Sheeting
Jersey
Broadcloth
Fleece
Denim
Tweed
Coating
Quilting
Silk #80-100
Cotton #80-100
Synthetic #80-100
Silk #50
Cotton #50-80
Synthetic #50-80
Silk #30-50
Cotton #40-50
Synthetic #40-50
#9/65-11/75
#11/7514/90
#14/9016/100
PLEASE NOTE:
The needle assortment includes 1 x blue shank
needle (no. 11/75), 2 x no. 11/75 needles and 2 x
no. 14/90 needles.
For optimal sewing results, it is recommend using
Organ needles.
Fabric and Needle Chart
• Use a needle size of 11/75 or 14/90 for general
sewing work.
• A fine thread and a fine needle must be used to
sew lightweight fabric to prevent damage to the
fabric.
• Heavy fabric requires a needle large enough to
pierce the fabric without the needle thread fraying.
• Always test the needle size on a spare section of
the fabric you will be using for sewing.
• In general, use the same thread for the needle
and the bobbin.
PLEASE NOTE:
Use a blue shank needle (available separately)
when sewing flexible fabrics, very fine fabrics and
synthetic fabrics. The blue shank needle effectively prevents skipped stitches.
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Setting Spool Pins
The spool pins are used for holding the spool of thread
in order to feed thread to the machine.
To use, pull up the spool pin. Push down for storage.
PLEASE NOTE:
When using thread which has tendency to tangle
around spool pin, thread through the hole of spool
pin as shown. The hole should face the thread
spool.
Upper thread
Hole
Tangle
Removing or Inserting the Bobbin Case
Remove the sewing table by pulling it to the left.
Open the bobbin cover.
Bobbin cover
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you.
Take out the bobbin case by holding the latch.
Latch
When inserting the bobbin case, place the horn into the
recess of the hook race.
Horn
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Winding the Bobbin
Pull the handwheel out.
Draw the thread from the spool.
Guide the thread around the bobbin winder pre-
tension.
Insert the thread through the hole in the bobbin
from the inside to the outside.
Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle.
Push it to the right.
With the free end of the thread held in your hand,
depress the foot control.
Stop the machine when it has made a few turns,
and cut the thread close to the hole in the bobbin.
Depress the foot control again.
When the bobbin is fully wound, stop the machine.
Return the bobbin winder spindle to its original
position by moving the spindle to the left, and cut
the thread.
Push the handwheel back into the original position.
PLEASE NOTE:
When stopping the machine, push the bobbin
winder spindle to the left.
Threading the Bobbin Case
Place the bobbin into the bobbin case.
Make sure the thread unwinds in the direction of
arrow.
Pull the thread into the bobbin case slot.
Draw the thread under the tension spring and into
the delivery eye.
* Pull a thread roughly 4" (10 cm) long from the bobbin.
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Threading the Machine
Raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position by
turning the handwheel toward you.
Raise the presser foot.
Place a spool on the spool pin as shown, with thread
coming from back of the spool.
Draw the thread into thread guide using both hands.
While holding the thread near spool, draw thread
down into the tension area and then around the
check spring holder.
Firmly draw the thread up and through the take–up
lever from right to left.
Then pull the thread downwards and guide it into
the thread guide on the bottom of the sewing head,
moving from right to left.
Pull the thread downwards and, on the left side of
the needle bar, insert it into the thread guide.
Thread the needle eye from front to back.
Needle threader
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
the handwheel toward you. Pull down the needle
threader as far as it will go.
Turn the needle threader away from you so the
hook comes out through the needle eye from
behind.
Pull the thread around the guide and under the
Hook. Take particular care with the point of the
needle when doing so.
Hook
Turn the needle threader toward you to pull the
thread through the needle eye. Release the needle
threader slowly while holding the thread end with
your hand. A loop of the thread is pulled up through
the needle eye.
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Drawing Up Bobbin Thread
Raise the presser foot and hold the needle thread
slightly with your left hand.
Use your right hand to slowly turn the handwheel
counterclockwise until the needle has been lowered. Continue turning the handwheel until the
thread take-up lever is at its highest point.
Slightly draw up the needle thread forming a loop of
the bobbin thread.
Pull 10 cm (4˝) of both threads back and under the
presser foot.
Thread tension dial
• Correct tension
The thread tension is adjusted depending on the sewing
materials, layers of fabric and sewing method.
In an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does not
show on the right side (top) of the fabric, and the needle
thread shows slightly on the wrong side (bottom) of the
fabric.
Needle thread (Top thread)
Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)
Right side (Top side) of fabric
Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
Thread tension dial
Setting mark
• The needle thread tension is too tight
When the bobbin thread (bottom thread) appears on the
right side (top side) of the fabric, loosen the needle
thread tension by moving the dial to a lower number.
• The needle thread tension is too loose
When the needle thread (top thread) appears on the
wrong side (bottom side) of the fabric, tighten the needle
thread tension by moving the dial to a higher number.
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Stitch pattern selector knob
Turn the stitch pattern selector knob so that the symbol
with the desired stitch pattern points at the setting mark.
Setting mark
CAUTION
To avoid needle or fabric damage, make sure the
needle is up and out of the fabric while selecting a
stitch.
Stitch length knob
Turn the stitch length knob so that the symbol with the
desired stitch length points at the setting mark.
The higher the number, the longer the stitch length.
Setting mark
+ –
S
• Set the knob for sewing with a zigzag stitch
between 0.5 and 4.
• Turn the knob to "S" to sew with stretch stitch pat-
terns, which are marked on the machine in red.
• If the stretch stitch pattern is irregular, turn the
stitch length knob towards "–" to condense the
stitch or towards "+" to expand the stitch.
Stitch width knob
Set the stitch width knob so that the symbol with the
desired stitch width points at the setting mark.
The higher the number, the wider the stitch width
Setting mark
PLEASE NOTE:
Raise the needle above the fabric, when you turn
the stitch width knob.
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Reverse sewing lever
As long as you keep the reverse sewing lever depressed,
the machine will sew in reverse.
Lowering and raising the feed dog
Remove the sewing table by pulling it to the left.
Open the bobbin cover.
Bobbin cover
To lower the feed dog, press the lever down and
move it in the direction indicated by the arrow (see
figure)
To raise the feed dog, press the lever down, move
it in the direction indicated by the arrow (see figure)
and turn the handwheel counterclockwise.
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BASIC SEWING
Straight stitch
Stitch selection: A
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2 – 6
Stitch length: 1.5 – 4
Needle position: (0) or (5)
• Starting sewing
Raise the presser foot and position the fabric with its
edge lining up with a seam guide line on the stitch plate.
Lower the needle into the fabric.
Lower the presser foot and smooth the threads toward
the back. Depress the foot control.
Gently guide the fabric along the guide line letting the
fabric feed by itself.
PLEASE NOTE:
Draw the threads to the left when sewing with the
buttonhole foot with slide.
To fasten the beginning of the seam, first sew several stitches in reverse then sew forward.
• Finishing sewing
For fastening the end of seams, press the reverse sewing lever and sew several reverse stitches.
Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric. Draw the
threads towards the back as you do so.
Cut the threads with the thread cutter .
The threads are now the proper length to begin sewing
the next seam.
Thread cutter
Changing the Sewing Direction
CAUTION:
Keep fingers away from the presser foot when
guiding the fabric. Otherwise fingers may be
struck and injured by the needle clamp screw.
Stop the machine and turn the handwheel toward you to
bring the needle down into the fabric.
Raise the presser foot.
Pivot the fabric around the needle to change sewing
direction as desired. Lower the presser foot and continue
sewing in the new direction.
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Seam Guide Lines
The numbers on the stitch plate indicate the distance
between the center needle position and the guideline.
The numbers in front are centimeters.
The numbers in back are fractions of an inch.
Number 10 15 20 3/8 4/8 5/8 6/8
Distance (cm) 1 1.5 2 — — — —
Distance
(inch)
— — — 3/8 1/2 5/8 3/4
Center needle position
Guide lines
Numbers
Turning a Square Corner
To turn a square corner 5/8˝ (1.6 cm) from the fabric
edge.
Stop stitching and lower the needle by turning the handwheel counterclockwise.
Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to line the
edge with the 5/8˝ (1.6 cm) seam guide.
Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new
direction.
Line up the fabric edge facing you with the cornering
guide shown.
Cornering guide
UTILITY STITCHES
Zigzag
Stitch selection: B
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2 – 5
Stitch length: 0.5 – 4
Stitch width: 0 – 5
Simple zigzag stitching is frequently used for overcasting, sewing on buttons, etc.
Adjust the stitch length to suit your sewing needs.
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Overcasting
Stitch selection: B
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1 – 4
Stitch length: 1 – 2
Stitch width: 5
Simple zigzag stitching is used to finish raw edges (overcasting) on most fabrics in order to prevent fraying. This
is the fastest way to finish an edge.
Place the fabric edge against the black guide on the foot.
Sew.
3-step zigzag
Stitch selection: C
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1 – 4
Stitch length: 0.5 – 4
Stitch width: 5
20
This stitch is used to finish the raw edge on synthetics
and other fabrics that tend to pucker.
Place your fabric to allow a 1.6 cm (5/8˝) seam.
Trim the seam allowance after sewing.
Be careful not to cut the stitches.
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Stretch-Overlock Stitch
Stitch selection: F
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1 – 4
Stitch length: S
Stitch width: 5
This knit stitch is ideal for sewing swimwear and stretch
velour because it provides the greatest amount of elasticity and strength.
Place your fabric to allow a 1.6 cm (5/8˝) seam.
Trim the seam allowance after sewing.
Be careful not to cut the stitches.
Triple straight stitch
Stitch selection: A
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2 – 6
Stitch length: S
Needle position: (0) or (5)
The stitch is sewn with two forward stitches and one
reverse stitch, creating a seam that is difficult to tear.
Use it to reinforce areas such as crotch and armhole
seams.
Also use it when constructing items such as backpacks
for extra strength.
Carefully guide the fabric while sewing as the fabric
moves back and forth.
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Triple zigzag
Stitch selection: B
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2 – 6
Stitch length: S
Stitch width: 2 – 5
Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a
zigzag stitch.
This stitch is also used as a decorative stitch.
Sewing Buttons
Stitch selection: B
Presser foot: Button-sew-on foot
Thread tension: 2 – 6
Stitch length: 0
Stitch width: Adjust as required
Feed dog: Lowered
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Lower the feed dog.
Match the holes in the button with the horizontal
slot on the presser foot.
Adjust the stitch width matching the distance of the
holes in the button.
Lower the foot to hold the button in place. Check to
see if the needle enters into the holes in the button
by turning the handwheel by hand.
Sew about ten (10) stitches.
To strengthen the shank, cut the threads leaving
about 4.0˝ (10.0 cm). Bring the needle thread down
through one of the holes in the button and wind it
around the shank. Bring the needle thread to the
wrong side (bottom side) and knot.
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Automatic Buttonhole
Stitch pattern:
Presser foot: Buttonhole foot with slide
Thread tension: 1 – 5
Stitch length:
Stitch width: 5
* The size of buttonhole is automatically set by placing
the button in the rear of the buttonhole foot with slide.
* The button holder of the foot takes a button size up to
1˝ (2.5 cm) in diameter.
* Sew a test buttonhole on a stitch that matches the
fabric, the interfacing and the seams on the actual item
of clothing.
* Use interfacing on stretch fabrics.
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward
you.
Raise the presser foot lever.
Attach the buttonhole foot with slide.
Groove
Pin
Pull the button holder to the back A, and place the
button in it.
Push back the button holder toward you B as far as
it will go.
Button holder
* If the button is extremely thick, make a test buttonhole.
If it is difficult to fit the button through the test buttonhole,
lengthen the buttonhole by pulling the button holder back
to create a gap.
Gap
Pull the buttonhole lever downward as far as it will
go.
Buttonhole lever
Insert the fabric under the foot. Turn the handwheel
toward you one rotation and remove the fabric to
the left to draw both threads to the left. Insert the
garment under the foot, and lower the needle at the
starting point. Then lower the buttonhole foot with
slide.
Starting point
PLEASE NOTE:
Make sure there is no gap between the slider and
spring holder, otherwise the left and right length
will be different.
Slider
Spring holder
There should be no gap.
Sewing gap
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Depress the foot control to sew a buttonhole.
The machine automatically sews the front bartack,
the left row, the rear bartack and the right row. Stop
the machine at the ending point.
Ending point
Raise the presser foot and cut the both needle and
bobbin threads leaving 10 cm (4˝) thread ends.
Draw the needle thread to wrong side of the fabric
by pulling the bobbin thread.
Then, knot the threads.
Place a pin on both buttonhole ends directly in front
of the bartacks to prevent the bartacks being cut
open. Cut the opening with the seam ripper.
Pin
Seam ripper
• Repeating buttonhole sewing
To repeat buttonhole sewing, turn the stitch selec-
tor to , then back to again, as shown.
Now, simply step on the foot control to sew an iden-
tical buttonhole.
When the buttonhole sewing is finished, push the
buttonhole lever upward as far as it will go.
Buttonhole lever
• Adjusting stitch density for buttonholes
Turn the stitch length knob to the right for a coarser density.
Turn the stitch length knob to the left for a tighter density.
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Buttonhole with cord
Stitch pattern:
Presser foot: Buttonhole foot with slide
Thread tension: 1 – 5
Stitch length:
Stitch width: 5
With the buttonhole foot with slide raised, hook the
filler cord on the cord pin at the back of the buttonhole foot with slide.
Bring the ends toward you under the buttonhole
foot with slide until they clear the front end.
Hook the filler cord into the slits on the front of the
buttonhole foot with slide to hold them tight.
Pin
Slits
Lower the needle into the garment where the but-
tonhole will start and lower the foot. Depress the
foot control gently and sew the buttonhole.
Both sides of the buttonhole and the bartacks are
sewn over the filler cord.
* The sewing steps are the same as the buttonhole sewing.
Remove the fabric from the machine and cut the
sewing threads.
Pull the left end of the filler cord to tighten it. Thread
the end through a darning needle, draw to the bottom side of the fabric and cut.
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Zipper Application
Stitch selection: A
Presser foot: Zipper foot
Thread tension: 2 – 6
Stitch length: 1.5 – 4
Stitch width: 5
Pin or baste zipper tape to fabric and place it under the
foot.
Pull the threads towards the back and lower the foot.
To sew the left side of the zipper, guide the zipper teeth
along the edge of the foot and stitch through the garment and zipper tape.
Turn the fabric and sew the other side of the zipper in the
same way as you did the left side.
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Blindstitch
Stitch selection: D or E
Presser foot: Blindstitch foot
Thread tension: 2 – 4
Stitch length: 1 – 3
Stitch width: 5
[A] [B]
On heavyweight fabrics that ravel, the raw edge
should be overcast first. Then fold the hem, as illustrated, leaving 1/4˝ (0.7 cm) of the hem edge showing.
Wrong side of the fabric
1/4˝ (0.7 cm)
[A] Heavy weight fabrics
[B] Fine or medium weight fabrics
Position the fabric, so that the needle at its leftmost
position just pierces the edge of the fold
. Turn the guide screw to adjust the guide aligning
with the folded edge.
Sew along the folded edge guiding the fabric so the
needle catches the folded edge.
Guide screw
Guide
Folded edge
After hemming is completed, press together both
sides of the finished hem. The top side of the fabric
should show only the blind stitches.
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Rolled Hem
Stitch selection: A
Presser foot: Hemmer foot
Thread tension: 2 – 6
Stitch length: 2
Stitch width: 5
Trim off the corner of the fabric 0.5 cm (3/16˝) by
0.8 cm (5/16˝) to avoid a bulkiness of the hem at
the corner.
Fold the fabric edge twice 0.3 cm (1/8˝) wide and 6
cm (2 3/8˝) long.
Wrong side of the fabric
0.5 cm
0.8 cm
Curl of the foot
Place the fabric aligning the hem edge with the
guide on the foot. Lower the foot and sew several
stitches while pulling both threads to the back. Stop
the machine with the needle in the fabric and raise
the presser foot. Insert the folded portion of the
fabric into the curl of the foot. Lower the foot and
sew. Raise the edge in the process so that it feeds
in evenly.
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DECORATIVE STITCHING
Vari-Overlock (scallop hem)
Stitch selection: F
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2 – 6
Stitch length: 2 – 3
Stitch width: 5
Use a lightweight fabric such as tricot. Fold the fabric
and stitch on the bias. You may need to increase the
needle thread tension slightly. Allow the needle to just
clear the folded edge of the fabric at zigzag stitches.
When sewing Vari-Overlock stitches, the distance
between the rows should be at least 5/8" (1.5 cm). The
Vari-Overlock can also be sewn in any direction on knitted fabrics or fabrics with a soft and smooth texture.
Smocking
Stitch selection: C
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1 – 4
Stitch length: S
Stitch width: 5
With the stitch length at “4”, sew straight stitching lines 1
cm (3/8˝) apart, across the area to be smocked.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull the bobbin
threads and distribute the gathers evenly.
Secure the threads at the other end.
Sew the decorative stitch between the gathering stitches.
Pull out the gathering stitches.
3/8˝ (1 cm)
PLEASE NOTE:
A similar effect can be achieved by using an elastic thread as the bottom thread. Wind the elastic
thread by hand onto the bobbin. Use a straight
stitch.
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Appliqué
Stitch selection: B
Presser foot: Satin stitch foot
Thread tension: 1 – 4
Stitch length: 0.5 – 1
Stitch width: 5
Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) appliqué pieces
on the fabric.
Sew on the appliqué, ensuring that the needle sews
along the outer edge of the appliqué.
When sewing corners, lower the needle down into the
fabric.
Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric to the right or
left.
Stretch Stitch Patterns
Stitch selection: A – K
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1 – 4
Stitch length: S
Stitch width: 5
The balance must be adjusted if the nature of the fabric
prevents a uniform forward and backward feed. To do so,
turn the stitch length knob as follows:
If the stitches are being condensed, turn the knob
towards "+".
If the stitches are being expanded, turn the knob
towards "–".
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CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Cleaning the Bobbin Case and the
Shuttle Race
WARNING:
Always switch off the power switch and /or unplug
the machine from the power supply before disassembling or cleaning the machine.
The machine must only be disassembled as
described in this section.
CAUTION:
Do not store the machine in a high-humidity area,
near a heat radiator, or in direct sunlight.
Dismantling Shuttle Race Unit
Raise the needle to its highest position and open the
bobbin cover.
Open the hinged latch of bobbin case and take it out of
the machine.
Open the shuttle race ring holders and remove the
shuttle race ring.
Remove the shuttle.
* Clean the shuttle race with a brush and a soft dry cloth.
Bobbin case
Shuttle race ring holder
Shuttle race ring
Shuttle
Shuttle race
Assembling Shuttle Race Unit
Hold the shuttle by the center pin and fit it carefully back
into the shuttle race, forming a perfect circle with the
shuttle driver.
Attach the shuttle race ring making sure the bottom pin
fits into the notch.
Lock the shuttle race ring by turning the holders back
into position. Insert the bobbin case.
Pin
Notch
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Oiling
WARNING:
• Always switch off the power switch and/or unplug
the machine from the power supply before oiling
the shuttle race unit.
• Remove the shuttle race unit as described.
• If the machine will not be used for the time being,
do not apply the oil until its next use.
• Only use high-quality oil that is suitable for sewing
machines.
• 1-2 drops of oil are sufficient.
• Remove any excess oil from the stitch plate as
otherwise it may contaminate the fabric.
• Oiling the shuttle race
Open the shuttle cover.
Remove the shuttle race ring and the shuttle. Clean the
hook area with a brush and a soft dry cloth.
Oil the indicated location.
Shuttle cover
Shuttle race ring
Shuttle
Cleaning the feed dog
CAUTION:
Always switch off the power switch and /or unplug
the machine from the power supply before cleaning the feed dog.
Remove the needle and the presser foot.
Remove the stitch plate setscrew and remove the stitch
plate.
Setscrew
Remove dust and lint from the feed dog using a brush.
Reset the stitch plate.
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Troubleshooting
Condition Cause Remedy
The needle thread
breaks.
1. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
2. The needle thread tension is too tight.
3. The needle is bent or blunt.
4. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
5. The needle thread and the bobbin thread are not set properly
under the presser foot at the beginning of sewing.
6. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when the sewing has finished.
7. The thread is either too heavy or too fine for the needle.
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The bobbin thread
breaks.
The needle breaks.
Skipped stitches.
Seam puckering
1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin
case and shuttle.
2. Lint has collected in the shuttle area.
3. The bobbin is damaged and does not turn smoothly.
1. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle clamp screw is loose.
4. The needle thread tension is too tight.
5. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when the sewing has finished.
6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn.
1. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle and/or threads are not suitable for the work being
sewn.
4. A blue shank needle is not being used for sewing stretch,
very fine fabrics and synthetics.
5. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
6. The wrong needle is being used.
1. The needle thread tension is too tight.
2. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn.
4. The stitch length is too long for the fabric.
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Replace the bobbin
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Change the needle
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Make the stitch shorter
The fabric is not
feeding smoothly.
The machine does
not work.
Noisy operation
1. Accumulation of lint on the feed dog.
2. The stitches are too fine.
1. The machine is not plugged in.
2. A thread is jammed in the shuttle race.
3. The clutch is disengaged. The handwheel is pulled out.
1. A thread is jammed in the shuttle race.
2. Lint has built up in the shuttle or the shuttle race.
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Make the stitch longer
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STITCH PATTERN
Overview
Description
Sewing together, top-stitching and sewing in zippers. Can also
be used as a basted seam. A stitch length of approx. 1/10" (2.5
mm) is ideal for normal seams, while the length should be
longer for basted seams or on firmer fabrics such as jeans.
Overcasting edges, sewing on bands, appliqué, sewing on
buttons and securing lace inserts. Reduce the stitch length to
roughly 1/50" (0.5 mm) for sewing appliqué.
Overcasting and reinforcing fabric edges, sewing on elastic
bands, decorative seams, darning tears and patching work.
For an invisible hem fastening with simultaneous edge over-
casting on elastic fabrics.
Overcasting double-knitted fabrics like tricot, jersey or other
lightweight fabrics on edges to create shell edging. Embellish-
ing any sewing projects.
Flat joining seams, visible hems, sewing on elastic bands and
decorative seams.
Thread
tension
Stitch
width
Stitch
length
Buttonhole slide 0.5 - 1.0 5 1-5 Standard button hole
One-step button-
hole
34
Stitch pattern Stitch Presser foot
A Straight stitch Zigzag foot 1.5 - 4.0 2-6
B Zigzag Zigzag foot 0.5 - 4.0 2-5 2-6
C 3-step zigzag Zigzag foot 0.5 - 4.0 5 1-4
D Elastic blindstitch Blindstitch foot 1.0 - 3.0 5 2-4
F Vari-Overlock Zigzag foot 2.0 - 3.0 5 2-6
E Blindstitch Blindstitch foot 1.0 - 3.0 5* 1-3 For an invisible hem fastening on woven fabrics.
G Universal stitch Zigzag foot 1.5 - 3.0 5 6-8
H Satin stitch Satin foot 0.5 - 1 5 3 Decorative stitch
I Satin stitch Satin foot 0.5 - 1 5 3 Decorative stitch
J Satin stitch Satin foot 0.5 - 1 5 3 Decorative stitch
K Decorative stitch Satin foot 0.5 - 1 5 3 Decorative stitch
Page 35
Description
For hard-wearing seams in firm fabrics, visible hems and visible
seams.
2-6
Thread
tension
Elastic, decorative stitch for decorative seams on flexible mate-
rials and for sewing on elastic thread and bands.
Decorative elastic stitch. For decorating knitted or woven fab-
rics. Also ideal for crazy quilting.
For sewing together and overcasting elastic fabrics in a single
operation. Also for decorating items of clothing, household tex-
tiles and handicrafts.
3 Decorative stitch
3 Decorative stitch
3 Decorative stitch
2-6 Elastic stitch for decorative hem ends and quilting seams.
1-4
1-4
1-4
1-4 Sewing together and simultaneously overcasting elastic fabrics.
1-4 Sewing together and simultaneously overcasting elastic fabrics.
3 Decorative cross stitch
5
Stitch
width
Stitch
length
2-5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5*
5
Stitch pattern Stitch Presser foot
A Triple straight stitch Zigzag foot S
B Triple zigzag Zigzag foot S
C Honeycomb stitch Zigzag foot S
D Florentine stitch Zigzag foot S
F Stretch overlock Zigzag foot S
E Reinforced overlock Zigzag foot S
G Double overlock Zigzag foot S
I Decorative stitch Satin foot S
J Decorative stitch Satin foot S
H Decorative stitch Satin foot S
K Cross stitch Satin foot S
* Stitch width max. 2 mm
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EN – 04/2017 – 2nd Edition
5060005.0.04 / 311801105
© BERNINA International AG
Steckborn CH, www.bernina.com
Page 39
Page 40
www.mybernette.com/blue-jeans
EN – 04/2017 – 2nd Edition
5060005.0.04 / 311801105
© BERNINA International AG
Steckborn CH, www.bernina.com
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