Page 1
See appendix for differences in the
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
activa 135 S Patchwork Edition
Page 2
In choosing BERNINA, you are assured of years of rewarding sewing. For over 100 years my family
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
has concentrated on providing complete satisfaction to our customers. And it is my personal wish to
continue this tradition of offering you Swiss precision engineering combined with state of the art
”Welcome to
the BERNINA
family”
H.P. Ueltschi
Owner BERNINA
Sewing Machine Company
technology and an after sales service second to none.
The new BERNINA activa 135 S and 145 S are characterized by a youthful appeal which is combined
with a range of added value features to give you, dear Customer, more sewing pleasure than ever
before.
Enjoy modern, creative sewing with BERNINA: our wide range of accessories as well as
our sewing publications brimming with imaginative ideas and practical tips all add to the joy of
sewing BERNINA style.
Any questions you have will be dealt with courteously and efficiently by our highly
trained BERNINA dealers, who will also be glad to service your sewing computer for you.
•
Fritz Gegauf Ltd.
BERNINA Sewing Machines •CH-8266 Steckborn/Switzerland
Page 3
2
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical machine, basic safety precautions should
always be followed, including the following.
Read all instructions before using this sewing computer.
When the sewing computer is not in use, it should be
disconnected from the electricity supply by removing the plug
from the outlet.
DANGER
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. A sewing computer should never be left unattended when
plugged in.
2. Always unplug the sewing computer from the electric outlet
immediately after using and before cleaning.
3. Always unplug before replacing light bulb. Replace the bulb
with the same type rated 12 volts/5 watts.
WARNING
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury
to persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy.
Close attention is necessary when the sewing computer is
used by or near children and infirm persons.
2. Use this sewing computer only for its intended use as
described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended
by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this sewing computer if
•
it has a damaged cord or plug
•
it is not working properly
•
it has been dropped or damaged
•
it has fallen into water
Return the sewing computer to the nearest authorized
BERNINA dealer or service center for examination, repair,
electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the computer with any air openings blocked.
Keep ventilation openings of the sewing computer and foot
control free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is
required around the sewing needle.
Page 4
3Safety instructions
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
6. Always use the BERNINA original needle plate. The wrong plate
can cause the needle to break.
7. Do not use bent needles.
8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the
needle causing it to break.
9. Turn power switch to «0» when making any adjustments
in the needle area, such as threading or changing the needle,
threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot.
10. Always unplug the sewing computer from the electrical outlet
when removing covers, lubricating or when making any other
user servicing adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual.
11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
12. Do not use outdoors.
13. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or
where oxygen is being administered.
14. Before disconnecting, turn all controls to the off («0») position
then remove the plug from the outlet.
15. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord but grasp the plug.
16. No responsibility will be taken for any possible damage as the
result of misuse of the sewing computer.
17. This sewing computer is provided with double insulation.
Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for
Servicing of double-insulated machines.
SERVICING DOUBLEINSULATED PRODUCTS
In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a
double-insulated product nor should a means for grounding be
added to the product. Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should only be
done by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a
double-insulated product must be identical to those parts in the
product. A double insulated product is marked with the words
«DOUBLE INSULATION» or «DOUBLE INSULATED».
The symbol may also be marked on the product.
This sewing computer is intended for household use only.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS!
Page 5
Details4
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Details of the sewing computer
11
14
Front view
9
13
8
19 20 21
18
12
7
6
5
2
1
3
15
16
17
25
4
22
23
27
24
26
28
Page 6
11
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Details
5
Right end
32
33
10
27
29
14
30
31
34
1 Bobbin cover
2 Stitch plate
3 Attachment base for
special accessories
4 Sewing table socket
5 Presser foot
6 Needle clamp with
fixation screw
7 Thread guide
8 Thread take up cover
9 Thread path
10 Thread tension
adjustment
11 Bobbin pre-tension
12 Reverse button/quick and
continuous
13 Screen
14 Bobbin winder with
on/off switch and thread
cutter
15 Stitch width button
16 Needle position button
17 Stitch length button
18 Needle stop up/down
19 1/2 speed
20 Pattern end
21 Mirror image
22 mem (memory) button
23 Alphabet buttons
24 Stitch selection buttons
25 #-button
26 clr/del-button
27 Handwheel
28 FHS connection
29 Balance adjustment knob
30 Power switch on/off
31 Power plug socket
32 Drop feed-dog
33 Foot control socket
34 Spool pin (vertical,
collapsible)
Page 7
Details6
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
43
42
40
36
45
37
3
39
2
4
Back view
Page 8
Details
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
7
35
36
42
37
38
46
35 Carrying handle
36 Presser foot lifter
(manual)
37 Thread cutter
38 Thread take up
39 Darning ring connection
40 Accessory box connection
41 Thread tension disc
42 Rear thread guide
43 Horizontal spool pin
44 Accessory box catch
44
41
45 Needle Threader
46 Lens holder
43
Left end
Sewing computer with Accessory box
Accessory box
Page 9
8 Setting up the sewing computer
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Accessories
•
foot control
•
instruction manual
•
power cable
•
warranty card
•
Accessory box
•
presser foot lifter
Standard accessories*:
4 bobbins (+ 1 in the capsule
in the sewing computer)
Selection of 130/705H needles
Seam ripper
Screwdriver
Angle key Torx
Screwdriver Torx
Lint brush
Seam guide
Compensating plate
3 spool discs
Foam pad
Oiler
Fabric cover
•
protects from dust and dirt
•
compartment for accessories
Lens Set: **
We recommend the use of the
BERNINA Lens Set for more
comfort when sewing.
Caution!
To avoid injury always attach
the protective cover of the
magnifying glass holder
when the magnifying glass is
not in use.
Start-stop-unit**
B
A
* can vary from country to country;
see presser foot selection p. 33
** available as a special accessory
Please refer to the safety
instructions!
With the Start-stop-unit (SSU)
the start-stop-function can be
controlled by hand.
•
press start-stop-button A =
stitching starts
•
with the speed regulator B
the sewing speed can be
regulated by hand
•
to interrupt or stop sewing =
press start-stop-button A
again
Note:
If the foot control is connected with the sewing machine,
the Start-stop-unit is out
functions.
CFL **
Contrary to an ordinary bulb, the CFL
sewing light has a better illumination
and a longer life.
Caution:
Please note that a defective CFL
sewing light must ONLY be replaced
by an authorized technician. The
sewing computer must be brought
to an authorized BERNINA dealer!
Page 10
Accessory box
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Setting up the sewing computer 9
D
F
G
A
H
E
B
C
Free standing accessory box
•
pull both feet out until they click into
place
•
stand box in chosen position
Storing accessories
Standard accessories are supplied in a
plastic bag.
The box is equipped with one small and
one large drawer (B and C) as well as compartments for bobbin holders D and presser
feet E. (Additional compartments and
drawers are available as optional extras.)
•
push the bobbins into the compartments
provided
•
to remove a bobbin, press the compartment holder F lightly
•
insert the presser feet into the slot E
•
the needle selection box can be stored in
compartment G
Attaching the accessory box to the
sewing computer
•
close the doors
•
push feet back into position
•
attach the box to the sewing computer
(catch A must engage); inserting
the presser foot lifter into the opening H
Note: first lower the presser foot lifter!
Removing the accessory box
•
press catch A on the top of the box
•
remove box to the rear
Available as a special accessory
Page 11
Setting up the sewing computer10
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Power cable
C
Power switch
Foot control
The power cable
•
plug A into sewing computer
•
plug B into wall socket
Foot control cable
•
plug C into sewing computer
Important! (USA/Canada only)
A
This sewing computer has a
polarized plug (one blade
B
wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock,
this plug is intended to fit in a
polarized outlet only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in
the outlet, reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a
qualified electrican to install
the proper outlet. Do not
modify the plug in any way.
The switch is on the handwheel
side of the computer
1 the computer is switched on
0 the computer is switched off
The sewing light is switched on
and off with the power switch.
The foot control regulates the
sewing speed
Sewing speed is adjusted by
applying more or less pressure
to the foot control.
Important! (USA/Canada only)
Use only foot controller type
SR-1 with sewing computers
activa 135 S/145 S.
Self storing cord
•
wind the cord on the reel
•
insert the plug into the groove provided
When sewing
•
unwind the cable
Refer to the safety
instruction!
Page 12
Sewing table
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
11Setting up the sewing computer
Increases the sewing surface.
To attach
•
raise the needle and presser
foot
•
place the table over the free
arm and press firmly so that it
To remove
•
raise the needle and presser
foot
•
pull the table out of the
fixing cam
•
pull in horizontal position to
the left
Seam guide
•
•
engages on the fixing cam
Scale
•
«0» corresponds to the centre
needle position
Free-Hand-System (FHS) presser foot lifter* (knee-operated)
Attaching the presser foot
lifter
Insert into the opening in the
base plate: you should be able
to operate the lifter with your
knee in your normal sitting
position.
Note:
Your dealer can adjust it if
necessary.
The presser foot lifter raises
and lowers the presser foot
•
push to the right
•
the presser foot is raised
•
the feed-dog is lowered
simultaneously
•
the feed-dog is raised as soon
as the first stitch is sewn
* Special accessory can vary from
insert into the groove (underside of table) from the right or
left
it can be freely adjusted over
the whole width of the table
Note: Remove the presser
foot when attaching the seam
guide!
country to country
Page 13
Setting up the sewing computer12
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Winding the bobbin
Winding the bobbin
•
turn power switch on
•
place empty bobbin on
spindle
Note:
When winding the bobbin
on the vertical spool holder
(p. 15), it may be necessary to
adjust the speed.
•
following the direction of the arrow take thread through the rear
guide and round the pre-tension stud
•
wind it several times round the empty bobbin
•
press the engaging lever against the bobbin
•
press the foot control
•
the motor will stop automatically when the bobbin is full
•
remove the bobbin
Thread cutter
•
cut the thread on the thread
cutter
Page 14
Bobbin case
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
13Setting up the sewing computer
A
To remove the bobbin case
•
raise the needle
•
turn power switch to «0»
•
open the bobbin cover
•
grasp the latch of the bobbin
case
•
remove case
To insert the bobbin case
•
hold the bobbin case latch
•
the finger on the case should
point upwards
•
insert so that it clicks into
place
Bobbin thread cutter
•
insert the bobbin case
•
take the thread over cutter A
•
thread is cut
•
close the bobbin cover
Note:
The bobbin thread does not
have to be brought up as
the loose end is just the right
length to start sewing.
Refer to the safety
instruction!
Page 15
Setting up the sewing computer14
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Inserting the bobbin
Insert the bobbin
Insert the bobbin so that the
thread runs clockwise.
Changing the needle
Pull the thread counter clockwise into the slot.
Removing the needle
•
raise the needle
•
turn power switch to «0»
•
lower the presser foot
•
loosen the needle clamp screw
•
pull the needle down to remove
Inserting the needle
•
flat side of needle to the back
•
insert the needle as far as it will go
•
tighten the needle clamp screw
Pull the thread to the left
under the spring until ...
... it lies in the T-shaped slit at
the end of the spring.
The bobbin must turn clockwise when thread is pulled.
Refer to the safety
instruction!
Page 16
Changing the presser foot
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
15Setting up the sewing computer
Presser foot with shank
•
raise the needle and
•
presser foot
•
turn power switch to «0»
Supplementary spool pin
Collapsible vertical spool pin
•
found on the back of the sewing computer
behind the handwheel
•
essential aid for sewing with more than one thread, i.e. double
needle work
•
raise the pin until it clicks into its vertical position
•
when using large reels, add the foam pad A for stability
•
raise the clamping lever
•
remove the presser foot
Attaching the presser foot
•
guide the foot upwards
•
over the cone
•
press the clamping lever
down
Refer to the safety
instruction!
A
Page 17
Setting up the sewing computer16
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Threading the upper thread
A
•
raise the needle and presser foot
•
turn the power switch to «0»
•
place spool on pin and attach the appropriate
spool disc – diameter of spool = disc size
•
take thread through rear guide A
•
then into slit of upper thread tension
•
pull thread down to the right of the take-up cover to B
•
then up to the left of the cover to C
•
and down through guides D and E
C
C
C
S
D
E
B
D
E
Refer to the safety
instruction!
Page 18
Needle Threader
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
17Needle Threader
A
B
Thread in hook
· lower the presser foot
· lay the thread behind
hook B and hold lightly
Lever down
· press lever A down and
simultaneously guide the
thread around hook B to
the right to the needle
Thread in front of needle
· put the thread from the
front into the guide until
it catches in the hook
Release the lever and thread
· let go of lever A and
thread
Page 19
Setting up the sewing computer18
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Bringing up the lower thread
•
hold the upper thread
•
sew one stitch
•
pull the upper thread until the bobbin thread appears
in the stitch plate hole
•
pull bobbin thread out of the hole and insert both
threads through the slit in the presser foot towards the back
•
pull threads over the cutter
Thread cutter
•
pull both threads from front to back over the
cutter
•
the threads release as soon as the first stitch is
sewn
Note:
The bobbin thread must be
brought up through the stitch
plate for certain types of
work. The length of thread
is sufficient for most normal
work if the lower thread
cutter has been used.
Page 20
Stitch plate
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
1
15/
1
/
8
4
Feed-dog
19Setting up the sewing computer
Stitch plate markings
•
5
/
4
1
/
8
the stitch plate is marked with seam guide lines in mm and inches
•
the millimetre markings are at the front
•
the inch markings are at the back
•
the measurements show the distance (with needle position centre) from
needle to line
•
10 201020
lines are provided to the right and left of the needle
•
they are very useful guide lines for precise seaming
•
the horizontal lines are useful for sewing corners, etc.
Button below the handwheel
Button flush with housing =
sewing position
Button depressed = feed-dog is lowered
•
for free-hand sewing (darning, embroidery, etc.)
Page 21
Setting up the sewing computer20
3
5
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Thread tension
The basic setting
•
is indicated when the red line on the tension
adjustment wheel is in line with the marking A
•
A
the tension does not need adjusting for normal
The tension is factory set for the best results.
Metrosene 100/2 (Arova Mettler, Switzerland)
is used to set both the upper and lower thread
tension.
sewing work
•
for special sewing work, the tension can be
adjusted to suit the fabric
If other sewing or embroidery threads are used,
the tension may need adjusting to suit the fabric
and chosen stitch.
For example:
To reduce the tension
turn to between 3 and 1
To increase the tension
Metallic thread approx. 3 90
Tension Needle
turn to between 5 and 10
Monofilament approx. 2– 4 80
Page 22
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030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
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21Operating instructions
Main switch to 1
•
the sewing sewing computer is ready to sew
The screen shows
1
1 stitch width basic setting blinks constantly
2 stitch length basic setting blinks constantly
4
3 needle position (9 positions)
4 needle stop up/down (generally up)
5 stitch number 1 (straight stitch)
6 presser foot number 1 indicator (recommended foot
2
for selected stitch)
Page 23
Operating instructions22
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Stitch* selection
•
stitches 1–10:
touch the number of your choice; stitch number and basic width and
length settings appear
Note: touch «0» to select stitch number 10 (standard buttonhole)
•
to select stitches 11–30 (activa 135 S) or 11–50 (activa 145 S):
touch #-button and the appropriate number
* see p. 30 for the complete stitch selection; for activa 135 S PE see appendix A1
Stitch width
•
left button = narrow the stitch width
•
right button = widen the stitch width
•
the basic settings of the chosen stitch blink constantly
Needle position
•
left button = needle to the left
•
right button = needle to the right
Stitch length
•
left button = shorten the stitch length
•
right button = increase the stitch length
Page 24
Functions
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Functions are ...
activated when the symbol appears on the screen.
deactivated when the symbols no longer appear on the screen.
23Operating instructions
Reverse sewing
quick reverse:
•
press button
•
Sewing computer sews reverse until button
is released (max. stitch length 3 mm)
Applications:
•
programming buttonholes
•
programming darning program
•
switch to straight stitch securing program
(stitch No. 5)
•
manual securing (seam begin and end)
continous reverse:
•
press button quickly twice
•
the sewing computer sews the chosen stitch
in reverse
•
press button once to cancel
1/2 speed
•
press the button and the sewing speed will be
halved
•
press the button again to revert to full speed
Needle stop
•
basic setting needle stop up
•
press button
•
arrow points down = sewing computer stops
with needle down
•
press button again
•
arrow points up = sewing computer stops
with needle up
Note:
Press key a bit longer = the needle will go automatically up or down.
Stitch end
•
press button
•
sewing computer stops at the end of a single
stitch or stitch combination (in Memory)
Mirror image*
•
press button
•
mirror image of selected stitch will be sewn
*activa 145 S only
Page 25
Operating instructions24
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
#-button
Stitch selection button (see p. 22)
clr/del (clear/delete)
•
press button = reverts to basic settings
•
other selected functions are cleared
Exceptions:
•
needle stop down
•
1/2 speed
•
altered basic settings for buttonholes =
press «clr/del»-button twice
Letters, numbers and punctuation marks
(only activa 145 S)
•
press the alphabet button
•
letters appear on the screen
•
press the right button to scroll letters and
numbers forwards (A B C ...)
•
press the left button to scroll letters and
numbers backwards (9 8 7 ...)
Alphabet contents
ABCEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVXYZ
_-.’! ? % ( ) [ ] Д Ц Ь Е ЖŒШСИЙКАВ
0123456789
mem (Memory)
•
press the centre button to open memory
(capacity of 30)
•
use the left and «mem+»-buttons to scroll and
programme stitches, letters and numbers
Altered Stitch Memory
•
any stitch length or width alterations will be
saved automatically
For example:
•
sew altered stitch, e.g. zig-zag
•
select another stitch, e.g. straight stitch
•
return to zig-zag, your alterations are still
active
Return to basic settings
•
basic settings can be restored manually for
individual stitches
•
all altered settings are lost when the
«clr/del»-button is pressed or when the
sewing computer is turned off
Application
•
for all stitches and fabrics
•
particularly useful for switching between
:
different applications
Page 26
Memory
mem
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030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
25Operating instructions
Any combination of 30 stitches, letters or numbers can be saved
in Memory, which is long term. They remain saved until deleted
by the user. Power failures or disconnection from the electricity
23451
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mem
Memory buttons
•
press left button (<) to scroll
contents backwards
•
press centre button (mem) to
open and close Memory
•
press right button (mem+)
to scroll contents forwards
Open Memory
5
•
press «mem»-button to open
4
Memory
3
• if the Memory is empty, the
2
cursor and number 30 (=
empty memories) blink
1
• if the Memory is not empty,
0
the saved stitches, letters or
numbers appear on the
screen; scroll forwards until
the cursor and number of
empty memories blink
supply do not affect the Memory. Alterations to the stitch length,
width or needle position can be made at any time. Individual
stitches, letters or numbers can be deleted or overwritten.
Example: saved stitch
•
saved stitch (28) is shown
To program stitches see p. 25
Example: saved letter
•
saved letter (E) is shown
To program letters and numbers
see p. 27
Page 27
Operating instructions26
mem
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030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Delete complete Memory
•
press «clr/del» and «mem»button at the same time
•
release both buttons
•
leave Memory by pressing the
mem button
•
Memory is now completely
deleted
Programming practical and
decorative stitches
•
open Memory (p. 25)
•
select stitch (p. 22)
•
stitch number appears on the
screen (here 21)
•
press «mem+» to program
(save)
•
the number of remaining
empty memories (here 29)
and the cursor blink
•
select next stitch, press
+
«mem
» and continue in
this manner
Scroll backwards
press left button = the programmed stitch numbers scroll
backwards
Scroll forwards
press «mem
+
»-button = the
programmed stitch numbers
scroll forwards
Begin sewing
• press the foot control = the
sewing computer starts automatically at the beginning of
a stitch sequence
• select Pattern End ( ) as well
= the sewing computer stops
automatically at the end of a
stitch sequence
Note:
The following special programs
cannot be saved in Memory:
No. 5, Securing program
Nos. 10–12, Buttonholes
No.13, Button sewing-on
program
No. 14, Darning program
No. 15, Basting stitch
Page 28
27Operating instructions
mem
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Programming letters, numbers
and punctuation marks
(activa 145 S only)
•
open Memory (p. 25)
•
press Alphabet button
•
select letter or number (p. 24)
•
press «mem+» to program
(save)
•
the number of remaining
empty memories (here 29)
and the cursor blink
•
select next letter/number,
press «mem
+
» and continue
in this manner
•
programme single words or
sentences/numbers
•
select (_) to program spacing
Note:
If the stitch length and/or
width of letters or numbers
have been altered, the alterations will affect all of them.
If you only want to alter
single letters or numbers, this
must be done individually.
Corrections in Memory
Changing individual stitches,
letters and numbers
•
scroll with the right or left
button to find the stitch you
want to change or correct
•
then correct or change:
stitch
letter
number
stitch length or width
needle position
etc.
•
press «mem+» to save the
change(s)
Delete single stitch, letter or
number
•
scroll to find the stitch
•
press «clr/del» to delete
• stitch/letter/number is deleted
Page 29
Operating instructions28
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3
4
5
0
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Leave Memory
•
press «mem»-button =
contents are saved
•
Memory is closed
«mem»-symbol disappears from
the screen
The contents of the memory
remain saved even when the
sewing computer is disconnected from the electricity
supply. They can be recalled
at any time.
The contents of the memory
will be lost if the sewing computer is switched off without
pressing the mem button
before closing the memory.
Page 30
Balance
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
29Operating instructions
Note:
If the balance has been
adjusted, return it to the
normal setting once sewing
is completed.
Your sewing computer has
been tested and factory set
using a double layer of
cretonne fabric and Metrosene
100/2 threads (Arova Mettler,
Switzerland).
Normal position Denser stitch formation
Different fabrics, threads and
stabilisers can naturally affect
the stitch balance so that they
are sewn too close together or
not close enough.
This can be remedied with
Balance to suit the fabric and
produce perfect results.
(shorter stitch length)
Applications:
Practical stitches, e.g.
Honeycomb stitch on jersey,
decorative stitches, fantasy stitches, letters, buttonholes, etc.
Finer stitch formation
(longer stitch length)
Page 31
Stitches30
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Stitches
Practical and decorative
1 Straight stitch
2 Zig-zag
3 Vari-overlock
4 Running stitch
5 Securing stitch
6 Triple straight and zig-zag
7 Blind stitch
8 Double overlock
9 Super stretch stitch
10 Standard buttonhole
11 Keyhole buttonhole
12 Straight stitch buttonhole
13 Button sewing-on program
14 Darning program
15 Basting stitch
16 Sewn-out zig-zag
17 Universal stitch
18 Gathering stitch
19 Honeycomb stitch
activa 135 S
20–22 Quilting stitches
23–30 Decorative stitches
*
activa 135 S
activa 145 S
activa 145 S
20–28 Quilting stitches
29–50 Decorative stitches
*activa 135 S PE see appendix A1
Page 32
Stitch selection*
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
31Stitches
1 Straight stitch
1
4
7
2
5
8
3
2 Zig-zag
3 Vari-overlock
4 Running stitch
6
5 Securing stitch
6 Triple straight and
triple zig-zag
7 Blind stitch
8 Double overlock
9 Super stretch
All non-stretch fabrics. All straight stitch work
Most fabric types; all simple zig-zag such as oversewing fine
fabrics. Sewing on elastic and lace
Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch overlock seams and hems
Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams
All types of fabric. Secures the beginning and end of seams sewn
with straight stitch
Reinforced seams in tough, heavy fabrics
Most types of fabric; blind hems, shell edging on soft jerseys and
fine fabrics, decorative seams
All types of knit; Overlock = sew and neaten in one operation
Open seam for all super-stretch fabrics
*activa 135 S PE see appendix A
Page 33
Stitches32
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
10
14
19
11
20
12
14 Darning program
19 Honeycomb stitch
20 Quilt/hand stitching
10 Standard buttonhole
11 Keyhole buttonhole
12 Straigth stitch buttonhole
Automatic darning for fine and medium weight fabrics
Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics; visible seams
and hems
Hand stitched effect: only the one stitch (lower thread) is visible;
the other stitch (upper thread = monofilament) is invisible; increase
upper thread tension to suit the fabric (6–9)
Fine to medium weight woven fabrics; blouses, shirts, trousers,
bedlinens, etc.
Heavy weight, non stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, trousers,
leisure wear, etc.
Pre-stitch program for bound buttonholes (Foot No. 3A) or pocket
openings (Foot No. 3, special accessory)
Page 34
2
Standard foot selection
1
5
3A
37
9
20
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
33Presser feet
1
Reverse pattern foot
Practical and decorative stitches
5
Blind stitch foot
Blind hems, edge stitching
activa 135 S = 6 feet (1, 2, 3A, 4, 5, 9)
activa 135 S PE = 7 feet (1, 3A, 4, 5, 9, 20, 37)
activa 145 S = 7 feet (1, 2, 3A, 4, 5, 9, 37)
2
Overlock foot
Overlock seam, hems, oversewing
edges, narrow satin stitch
9
Darning foot
Freehand quilting for light to
medium weight quilts; darning
3A
Buttonhole foot with slide
Buttonhole on smooth fabrics,
darning
20
Open Embroidery foot
4
Zipper foot
Sewing in zips
37
Patchwork foot
Patchwork with seam allowance
1/4” or 1/8” (≈ 6 or 3 mm)
Page 35
Selected practical stitches: Straight stitch with securing program34
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Securing program
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Securing program No. 5*
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton/polyester
raised (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Securing program
•
for all fabrics
•
secures seam begin and end
•
sews exactly over the previous stitches
Seam begin
•
sewing computer secures automatically (5 stitches forwards,
5 reverse)
•
continues sewing straight stitch forwards
Seam end
•
press the reverse button = sewing computer secures
automatically (5 stitches reverse, 5 forwards)
•
stops automatically when securing is complete
* 135 S PE see appendix A2
Page 36
Basting stitch
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
35Selected practical stitches: Basting stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
TIP
Basting stitch No. 15 (activa 135 S PE No. 14)
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton/polyester
lowered (darning position)
No. 9
Basting stitch
•
for all work which requires a very long stitch
•
for basting seams, hems, quilts, etc.
•
easy to remove
Preparation:
•
pin work horizontally to basting direction to prevent the
layers slipping
Basting
•
lower the feed-dog
•
position work under the presser foot and sew one stitch;
hold threads when starting to sew
•
pull work from behind to the required length of the stitch
•
sew one stitch and repeat the procedure
Securing/fixing the thread
•
sew a few basting stitches at the beginning and end of a seam
Basting
•
use a fine darning thread for basting as it is easier to remove
Page 37
Selected practical stitches: Blind hem36
5
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Blind hem
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Sewing
•
the needle should just pierce
the edge of the fold (same as
hand sewing)
•
adjust the stitch width to suit
the fabric
•
after sewing about 10 cm
(4"), check both sides of
fabric and adjust width again
if necessary
Blind stitch No. 7
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Blind stitch foot No. 5
Blind hem
for «invisible» hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool
and blended fabrics
Preparation
•
neaten raw edges
•
prepare seam as for sewing by hand
•
place work under the presser foot (see drawing)
Wrong side of
fabric
Wrong side of
fabric
Right side of fabric
TIP
Fine stitch width adjustment
Guide the folded edge evenly
along the metal guide on the
foot = even depth
Page 38
Darning program
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
37Selected practical stitches: Darning
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Darning Program No.14 (activa 135 S PE No. 13)
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
darning thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Buttonhole foot No. 3A
Quick darning of holes or worn areas
Replacement of damaged fibres/threads
Darning with Reverse pattern foot No. 1 (auto stitch counter)
•
insert needle in top left of damaged area
•
sew the first length and stop the sewing computer
•
press the securing button: length is programmed
•
complete the darn; the sewing computer stops automatically
Large areas:
•
the darning area can be extended by moving the work
under the foot
•
clear the programme by pressing the «clr/del»-button
Darning with Buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A
•
use for small tears and damaged areas, not more than
1
3 cm (1
•
use same method as with foot No. 1
/4”) long
TIP
Reinforcement
use fine fabric or interlining as
a backing
Preparation
stretch fabric into darning
ring* prevents puckering
*The darning ring is available as a
special accessory
Page 39
Selected practical stitches: Zippers38
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Zippers
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
4
TIP
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Zipper foot No. 4
far right or far left
Preparation:
•
baste in zipper
•
fabric edges should meet over the center of the zipper
Sewing
•
sew in the zipper, each side from bottom to top
•
once with needle position far right and once with
needle position far left
•
the edge of the foot runs along the teeth of the zip
•
the needle inserts close to the teeth
To sew around zipper pull
•
close zipper and sew up to
about 5 cm (2") away from
the pull
•
insert needle, raise the
Seam begin
hold thread firmly when
starting to sew = pull fabric
slightly to the back (fewer
stitches)
presser foot, open the zipper,
lower the foot and continue
to sew
Zipper or fabric is thick or
densely woven
use a 90–100 needle for even
stitch formation
Page 40
Everything you need to know about buttonholes
1
2
3
4
0
5
0
23451
5.5
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Thread tension
•
thread the bobbin thread through the finger of the bobbin case = the bobbin tension is
a little tighter
•
this gives the beads on the right side of the fabric a slightly rounded appearance
•
the buttonhole looks more attractive
· gimp reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance (pages 47, 48)
Buttonholes are not only
practical closures, they can
also be used to decorative
effect
Select the buttonhole of your
choice (No. 10 or 11);
the following appears on the
screen:
39Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
1
3
1 Buttonhole number
2 Buttonhole symbol
3 Presser foot number
Mark the length of
automatic buttonholes
•
mark the length of just
one buttonhole
•
after sewing the first
2
buttonhole, the length for all
subsequent buttonholes is
automatically programmed
•
mark only the beginning of
all subsequent buttonholes
Mark the length of manual
buttonholes
•
mark the buttonhole length
in the appropriate position
•
stitch using buttonhole foot
No. 3 (optional accessory)
Mark the length of keyhole
buttonholes
•
mark the bead length only
•
the correct length eye will be
added when the buttonhole
is sewn
Page 41
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes40
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Note:
When all buttonholes have
been sewn, return balance to
the normal setting!
Test sewing
•
always test sew on the fabric and stabilizer you intend to use
•
select the buttonhole type you intend to use
•
sew the buttonhole in the same direction on the fabric (with or
against the grain)
•
cut the buttonhole open
•
push the button through and adjust the buttonhole length if
necessary
Corrections
To adjust the bead width:
•
alter the stitch width
•
altered stitch widths can be deleted by pressing the «clr/del»button
Altering the stitch length:
•
any alterations to the stitch length affect both beads (denser or
less dense)
•
altered stitch length can be deleted by pressing the «clr/del»button
Balance for automatic/manual buttonholes
•
any balance alterations to the 6-step manual and auto length
buttonholes affects both beads identically because they are sewn
in the same direction
TIP
If a buttonhole is to be sewn at
right angles to a seam, we
recommend the use of the buttonhole leveler. Insert the plate
from behind between the
fabric and the foot up to and
over the thicker area.
Page 42
Automatic standard buttonhole with auto length
3A
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
Note:
The automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A must lie perfectly flat on
the fabric. If the foot lies on a seam, the length cannot be measured accurately.
41Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Standard buttonhole No. 10
size and type suitable for fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Automatic standard buttonhole
•
insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case (p. 39)
•
when using Buttonhole foot No. 3A, the length of the buttonhole is automatically registered by the lens on the foot = exact
duplication and automatic sequence change when the maximum
length has been sewn
•
each step of the sewing sequence blinks on the screen
Note:
When any automatic buttonhole is selected,
presser foot No. 3 is indicated on the screen.
Page 43
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes42
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
1
Note:
When all buttonholes have
been sewn, return balance to
the normal setting!
Programme the standard buttonhole
1 sew the first bead forwards, stop the sewing computer
•
press the reverse button
•
«auto» and presser foot No. 3A are indicated on the screen =
the buttonhole length is programmed
2 the sewing computer sews reverse straight stitch automatically
3 the first bar tack
4 the second bead forwards
5 the second bar tack and securing stitches
5432
•
sewing computer stops and returns automatically to buttonhole
begin
Auto buttonhole
•
all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn to exactly the same
length (no need to press the reverse button)
•
press the «clr/del»-button to delete the programme
•
the programmed buttonhole can be saved in the long term
memory (see p. 49)
Corrections see p. 40
Balance
•
any changes to the balance affect both beads of auto length
buttonholes, because both beads are sewn in the same direction
TIP
Exact duplicates
the auto function ensures that
each buttonhole will be exactly
the same length as the previous one
Marking
mark only the beginning of the
buttonholes – a real time
saver!
Sewing speed
•
sew at moderate speed for
best results
•
sew all buttonholes at the
same speed for a consistent
bead density
Compensating plates for
buttonholes (special accessory)
If a buttonhole is to be sewn
horizontally to the edge of the
garment, it is worth using the
compensating plates.
This accessory provides an even
surface for the buttonhole foot
with slide which results in a perfect buttonhole (see tips p. 40).
Page 44
3A
Automatic keyhole buttonhole with auto length
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
43Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Keyhole buttonhole No. 11
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Automatic keyhole buttonhole
•
insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case (p. 37)
•
when using Buttonhole foot No. 3A, the length of the buttonhole is automatically registered by the lens on the foot = exact
duplication and automatic sequence change when the maximum
length has been sewn
Marking the keyhole buttonhole
•
mark the bead length only. The correct eye length will be added
when the buttonhole is sewn.
•
each step of the sewing sequence blinks on the screen
Page 45
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes44
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Programming the buttonhole
1 sew the straight stitch forward, stop the sewing
computer,
•
press the reverse button
•
auto and presser foot No. 3A are displayed on
1
the screen = buttonhole length is programmed
2 the sewing computer automatically sews the eye
3 the first bead in reverse
Exact duplicates
the auto function ensures
that each buttonhole will be
exactly the same length as
the previous one
TIP
4 sews second straight stitch
5 sews second bead in reverse
2
3
54
6
6 sews bartack and securing stitches
•
the sewing computer stops and returns automatically
to buttonhole begin
Marking
mark only the beginning of
the buttonholes – a real time
saver!
Note:
When all buttonholes have
been sewn, return balance to
the normal setting!
Auto buttonhole
•
all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn automatically
to the same length (without pressing the reverse button)
•
Press the «clr/del»-button to delete the programme
•
the programmed buttonhole can be saved in the long
term memory (see p. 49)
Corrections see p. 40
Balance
•
any changes to the balance affect both beads of auto
length buttonholes, because both beads are sewn in the
same direction
•
any distortions to keyhole buttonholes can be corrected
with balance
Double sewn keyhole
buttonholes
•
keyhole buttonholes can be
sewn twice on thick fabrics
•
after sewing the first buttonhole, do not move the work
•
simply tap the foot control
once to begin sewing again
Page 46
Manual buttonhole (all types)
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Manual buttonholes are particularly suitable for single buttonholes or for repairing
existing buttonholes.
Individual steps can be eliminated or repeated. The number of steps
corresponds to the buttonhole type. Manual buttonholes cannot be saved.
45Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
any buttonhole
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Buttonhole foot No. 3 (optional accessory)
Preparation
•
select the desired buttonhole
•
screen shows:
buttonhole number (10 or 11)
presser foot No. 3
the buttonhole symbol (the first step blinks on the
screen)
•
insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin
case
Always test sew buttonholes
•
test on the fabric and stabilizer you intend to use
•
sew buttonholes in the same grain direction
(with or against)
Note: Corrections see p. 40
Page 47
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes46
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Sewing a manual standard buttonhole
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
The individual steps blink on the screen.
1 sew the first bead forward, stop the sewing computer
•
press the reverse button
2 sew reverse straight stitch, stop the sewing computer at the first
1
2
stitch (buttonhole begin)
•
press the reverse button
3 sew the bartack and the second bead, stop the sewing computer
•
press the reverse button
4 sew the bartack and the securing stitches
3
4
Manual keyhole buttonhole
Sew both forward and reverse beads at the same speed.
The individual steps blink on the screen.
1 sew straight stitch forwards, stop the sewing computer, press the reverse button
2 sew the eye and the first bead in reverse, stop the sewing computer at the first
stitch (buttonhole begin), press the reverse button
21
3 sew straight stitch forwards and stop at the keyhole, press the quick
reverse button
4 sew the second bead in reverse, stop the sewing computer at the first stitch
(buttonhole begin), press the reverse button
345
5 sew bartack and securing stitches
Page 48
Buttonhole with gimp
3A
3A
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Gimp
•
gimp cord reinforces buttonholes and enhances their
appearance
•
the loop of the cord should
be at the end of the buttonhole most subject to wear
cord loop = where button is
sewn on
•
position the work accordingly
•
gimp cord is particularly
recommended for standard
and stretch buttonholes
Ideal cords
•
Perle yarn No. 8
•
strong hand sewing thread
•
fine crochet yarn
Hooking the cord in the buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A
•
insert the needle at the
beginning of the buttonhole
•
raise the presser foot
•
guide the cord under the foot
to the right
•
hook the cord over the pin at
the back of the foot
•
bring the cords to the front of
the foot
•
pull them into the slit
•
sew the buttonhole
Sewing
•
sew the buttonhole in the
usual manner
•
do not hold the cord tightly
•
the buttonhole will form over
the cord, covering it
47Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Hooking the cord onto presser
foot No. 3
•
insert the needle at the
beginning of the buttonhole
•
raise the presser foot
•
hook the cord over the centre
pin on the front of the foot
Page 49
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes48
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
•
place both ends of the cord
in the grooves on the sole of
the foot and pull them to the
back
•
lower the presser foot
Sewing
•
sew the buttonhole in the
usual manner
•
do not hold the cord tightly
•
the buttonhole will form over
the cord, covering it
Securing the cord
•
pull the cord through the
buttonhole
•
pull cords through to back of
fabric
•
knot or secure with stitches
Cutting buttonholes open
with the seam ripper
•
use the back of the seam
ripper to nick the stitches
•
cut from both ends towards
the middle
Buttonhole cutter and block
(special accessory)
•
place the fabric on the wood
•
place the cutter in the centre
of the buttonhole
•
press down on the cutter
with your hand or a hammer
Page 50
Programmed buttonholes
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Saving programmed buttonholes in long term memory
•
after programming press the «mem+»-button
•
the buttonhole is now saved in long term memory
Opening saved buttonholes
Programmed saved buttonholes can be opened for re-use even after the sewing computer
has been disconnected.
•
select the buttonhole
•
press the «mem»-button
•
sew the programmed buttonhole
•
only one of any style buttonhole can be saved, if a new length is saved
with «mem
+
», it overwrites the previously saved buttonhole
49Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Page 51
Selected practical stitches: Button sewing-on program50
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Button sewing-on program
Stitch:
Stitch width
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Button sewing-on program No. 13 (activa 135 S PE No. 12)
depends on distance between the holes
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
down (darning position)
Foot No. 9
Button sew-on foot No. 18 (optional accessory)
Sewing on buttons
•
sews buttons with 2 or 4 holes
•
buttons being sewn on for decorative purposes only
can be stitched without forming a thread shank
•
the length of the shank (= thread between button and fabric)
can be made shorter or longer as required with foot No.18
Sewing on buttons with foot No. 9
•
select Button Sew-on program
•
sew the securing stitches; hold the threads when starting to sew
•
check distances between holes with the handwheel and adjust
stitch width if necessary
•
sew
•
sewing computer stops automatically when program is
completed and is ready for the next button
Beginning and ending threads
•
the threads are secured and can be trimmed
For added security
•
after sewing on the button, pull the upper thread ends
through to the wrong side and knot
Page 52
Sewing on buttons with foot No.18
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
•
set the shank length with the screw on the foot
•
select Button sewing-on program and continue as
with foot No. 9 (p. 50)
Beginning and ending threads
•
the threads are secured and can be trimmed
For added security
•
after sewing on the button, pull the upper thread ends
through to the wrong side and knot or
•
using the upper thread ends to sew a «shank» by hand
TIP
4-hole button
•
sew the front holes
•
carefully move the button
forward
•
sew the back holes
•
cut the diagonal joining
thread
51Selected practical stitches: Button sewing-on program
Page 53
Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams52
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Vari-overlock seam
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
2
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2 or
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
The pin on the foot produces more thread in each stitch so that
the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
Closed seam
Stretchy seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and interlock.
Sewing
•
guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
•
the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric
TIP
Knits and jersey
use a new needle to prevent
damaging the loops
Sewing stretch fabrics
if necessary use a stretch
needle (130/705H-S) = needle
point slides between the fibers
Page 54
Double overlock seam
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
53Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
2
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Double overlock No. 8
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2 or
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
The pin on the foot produces more thread in each stitch so that
the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
Closed seam
overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits and jerseys
Sewing
•
guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
•
the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric
TIP
Knits and jersey
use a new needle to prevent
damaging the loops
Sewing stretch fabrics
if necessary use a stretch
needle (130/705H-S) = needle
point slides between the fibers
Page 55
Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams54
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Ribbing with overlock seam
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
2
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2 or
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
The pin on the foot produces more thread in each stitch so that
the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
Ribbing with overlock seam
for all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey
Preparation
•
fold ribbing in half
•
pin and baste to opening, right side outside
Sewing
•
sew Vari-overlock over the raw edge
•
guide the edge along the pin on the foot
Back view
Front view
TIP
Needle stop down
needle stays in fabric when
you stop to adjust the ribbing
Page 56
Self-facing with Honeycomb stitch
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
55Selected practical stitches: Honeycomb stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Note:
After sewing return balance
to the normal setting!
Honeycomb No. 19 (activa 135 S PE No. 15)
universal, ballpoint or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No.1
Ribbing with visible seam
for all cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey
Preparation
press 1 cm (3/8") to wrong side
Sewing
•
sew from the right at a foot's width from the edge
•
trim surplus fabric (wrong side)
Balance/corrections
bring stitch together
open out stitch
TIP
Needle stop down
needle stays in fabric when
you stop to adjust the ribbing
Page 57
Needles, Threads56
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Important facts about sewing computer needles
Sewing computer, needle and thread
Your BERNINA uses needle system 130/705H.
Needle and thread
The most commonly sold needles are nos. 70 –120.
The finer the needle, the lower the number. The table
shows which needle is suitable for which threads.
Needle appropriate
for thread
When sewing, the thread
runs in the long groove on
the needle.
Needle inappropriate
for thread
If the needle is too fine, the
groove will be too narrow for
the thread and faulty stitching
or thread breakage can occur.
Needle and fabric
Condition of needle
The needle must be in perfect
condition. Problems can occur
with damaged needles.
Needle 70 80 90 100 110–120
Darning thread
Embroidery thread
Mercerised
cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Thick threads,
synthetic mercerised
thread
Buttonhole thread
for decorative
seams (cordonnet)
••
•
••
••
••
••
bent needle
blunt needle
hooked needle
Page 58
Special materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used.
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Special needles are available at your BERNINA dealer.
57Needles
Needle table
Standard
needle
Special
needles
Double needle
Triple needle
Description
130/705 H
130/705-SES
130/705 H-SUK
130/705 H-S
130/705 H-J
130/705
H-LR + H-LL
130/705 H
ZWI
130/705 H
DRI
Needle point
Normal point,
slightly
rounded
Fine ball point
Medium ball
point
Medium ball
point
Extra fine point
Cutting point
Widths:
1,6 / 2,0 / 2,5
3,0 / 4,0
Widths:
2,5 / 3,0
Suitable for
Universal needle for woven, needle synthetic and
natural fibers, e.g. linen, chiffon, batiste, organdie,
wool, satin, decorative stitching, embroidery
Fine knits, especially for synthetic fibers
Heavier knits in synthetic or natural fibers
Special needle for delicate or difficult stretch fabrics
Overalls, heavy linen, denim, canvas.
Pierces dense fabrics easily
Natural and synthetic leather, plastic, coated
and waxed fabric
Visible hems in stretch fabrics, pintucks,
decorative sewing
Decorative sewing
Hemstitch
needle
130/705 H
HO
Width:
2,0
Hemstitch in loose weaves
Page 59
Needle, thread, fabric feed58
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Feed-dog and fabric feed
Feed-dog and stitch length
With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step.
The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected.
With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are also short.
The fabric moves under the foot quite slowly, even at full sewing
speed. Buttonholes, satin stitch and decorative stitches are all
sewn with a very short stitch length.
Important
Let the fabric feed evenly! Holding back will result in
Pulling or pushing will result in
gaps.
knots.
Page 60
Feed-dog and fabric feed with compensating plates
1
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
59Needle, thread, fabric feed
1
The feed-dog can work
normally when the foot is level.
Thick fabrics: feed-dog and sewing corners
If the foot is at an angle, e.g.
when sewing over thick to thin
or vice-versa, the feed-dog
cannot grip and feed the fabric
and the fabric hangs up.
The gap between the two rows
of teeth is relatively large due
to the width of the stitch plate
hole.
When sewing corners only a
small section of the fabric is
actually on the feed-dog so
that it cannot grip the fabric
well.
Uneven layers
To solve this problem, place
one, two or three compensating plates as required behind
the needle under the presser
foot.
To correct the height in front of
the foot, place one or more
plates to the right of the foot
close to the needle. Sew until the
foot is level again and remove
the plates.
Correct this by placing one
or more compensating
plates as close as possible
to the edge of the fabric.
Page 61
Cleaning and maintenance60
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Cleaning
If the sewing computer is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a
warm room about one hour before use.
Cleaning
Clean the sewing computer after every use
•
turn power switch to «0»
•
remove presser foot and needle
•
open the free-arm cover
•
unscrew the stitch plate (with screwdriver
TORX)
•
lift and remove it
•
clean the area with the brush
•
replace the stitch plate
Cleaning the hook
•
turn power switch to «0»
•
remove the bobbin case
•
push the release lever to the left
•
push the locking lever to the left and fold
down the hook race cover
•
remove the hook
•
clean the hook race with a cloth or brush,
never use a sharp instrument
•
replace the hook, turning the handwheel if
necessary so that the hook driver is on the left
•
close the hook race cover and secure with the
locking lever, the locking pin must engage
•
check by turning the handwheel
•
insert the bobbin case
Cleaning the screen and the sewing computer
•
wipe with a damp cloth
CAUTION
Disconnect plug
from the socket
before cleaning
and servicing
Lubricating
•
squeeze 2–3 drops of oil into the hook race
•
run the machine for a short time without
thread to prevent oil soiling your work
Important!
Never use alcohol, petrol, white spirit or any
type of solvent to clean the sewing computer!
Refer to the safety instruction!
Page 62
Sewing light
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Replacing the bulb
•
turn power switch to «0»
•
loosen the screw
•
remove the cover by lifting it
slightliy and detaching from
the top
Replacing the Sewing Light**
•
remove the bulb
•
insert the new bulb
•
replace cover and tighten
screw
61Cleaning and maintenance
CAUTION
Disconnect plug
from the socket
before cleaning
and servicing
Note:
Use bulb type
12 V 5 W.
W 2.1 x 9.5 d.
Light bulbs get hot.
Allow to cool down before
removal.
Refer to the safety
instruction!
Please refer to the safety instructions!
Contrary to an ordinary bulb,
the CFL sewing light has
a better illumination and a
longer life.
Caution:
Please note that a defective
CFL sewing light must ONLY
be replaced by an authorized
technician. The sewing computer must be brought to an
authorized BERNINA dealer!
** Available as a special accessory
Page 63
Faults62
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Trouble shooting
In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy faults
by checking the following.
Check whether:
•
the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly
•
the needle is inserted correctly
•
the needle size is correct – check the needle/thread table p. 57
•
the sewing computer is clean – brush out any thread fluff
•
the hook race is clean
•
any threads are trapped between the tension discs or under the
bobbin case spring
•
the bobbin runs smoothly in the case or if remnants or lint need
removing
Upper thread breaks
•
The upper thread tension
is too tight.
•
The needles are of a poor
quality. Ideally needles should
be purchased from your
BERNINA dealer.
•
The needle is bent or blunt.
•
Poor quality, knotted or dried
out thread has been used.
•
Use the correct spool disc.
•
Stitch plate or hook tip
Lower thread breaks
•
The lower thread tension is
too tight.
•
The bobbin is jamming in
the bobbin case. Remove and
replace the bobbin.
•
The hole in the stitch plate
has been damaged by the
needle. This must be
repolished by an expert.
•
The needle is blunt or bent.
damaged. Take your sewing
computer to your BERNINA
dealer.
Skipped stitches
•
Wrong needles used.
Use only 130/705H system.
•
The needle is blunt, bent or
incorrectly inserted.
•
Push right to the top when
inserting.
•
Needle inserted all the way
to the top.
•
The needle point does not
suit the fabric being sewn.
If necessary use a ball point
for knitted fabrics and
cutting point for hard leather.
Needle breaks
•
Needle clamp screw loose.
•
Fabric taken out in front
instead of behind presser foot.
•
When sewing over thick area,
the fabric was pushed with
the needle still in the fabric.
•
Poor quality thread, unevenly
wound or knotted.
•
See pages 56 and 57 for
information about needles
Faulty stitching
•
Remnants of thread between
the tension discs.
•
Remnants of thread under
the bobbin case spring.
•
Lower thread still threaded in
the bobbin case finger.
•
Sewing computer threaded
with foot down.
•
Incorrect threading. Check
upper and lower threads.
•
Use the correct spool disc.
Sewing computer fails to run
or runs slowly
•
Plug not properly inserted.
•
Power switch in off position.
•
Sewing computer has been
standing in a cold room.
•
Bobbin winder still switched
on.
Page 64
Index
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
63
A
Accessory box 8, 9
B
Balance 29, 49, 55
Basting stitch 35
Blanket stitch A3
Blind hem 36
Bobbin 12
Bobbin case 13
Bobbin thread cutter 13
Bringing up the lower thread 18
Button sewing-on program 50
Buttonholes 39–49
•
Altering buttonholes 49
•
Automatic keyhole buttonhole 43
•
Automatic standard buttonhole 41
•
Buttonhole with gimp 47
•
Manual buttonhole 45
•
Programmed buttonholes 49
C
Changing the needle 14
Changing the presser foot 15
CFL 8, 61
Cleaning 60
Compensating plates 59
D
Darning program 37
Details of the sewing computer 4–7
Double blanket stitch A3
Double overlock seam 53
F
Fabric cover 8
Fabric feed, Needles, Threads 56–59
Feather stitch A6
Feed-dog 18, 58
Foot control 10
Functions 23
•
#-button 24
•
1/2 speed 23
•
clr/del (clear/delete) 24
•
Letters 24
•
mem (Memory) 24
•
Mirror image 23
•
Needle stop 23
•
Reverse sewing 23
•
Stitch end 23
H
Handlook quilt stitch A5
Honeycomb stitch 55
I
Inserting the bobbin 14
K
Keyhole buttonhole 43
Knits and jersey 52, 53
L
Letters programming 27
Lower thread 18
Lens Set 8
M
Maintenance 60, 61
Memory 25
•
Balance 29
•
Corrections in Memory 27
•
Leave Memory 28
•
Memory buttons 25
•
Open Memory 25
Page 65
Index64
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
•
Programming letters, numbers and
punctuation marks 27
•
Programming practical and decorative
stitches 26
•
Scroll backwards/forwards 26
•
Stitches 30, 31, 32
N
Needle position 22
Needles, Threads, Fabric feed 56–59
Needle Threader 17
O
Overlock seam 54
P
Power cable 10
Presser feet 33
Presser foot lifter 11
Q
Quilters securing program A2
Quilt stitch (Handlook quilt stitch) A5
R
Ribbing with overlock seam 54
Reverse sewing 23
S
Screen shows 21
Seam guide 11
Securing program 34
Self-facing with Honeycomb stitch 55
Sewing light 61, 8
Sewing table 11
Single blanket stitch A3
Spool pin 15
Standard accessories 8
Standard buttonhole 41
Stiches 30, A1
Stipple stitch A4
Stitch length/width 22
Stitch plate 19
Stitch selection 22
Stretch fabrics 52, 53
Supplementary spool pin 15
T
Threads, Fabric feed, Needles 56–59
Thread cutter 12, 18
Thread tension 20
Threading the upper thread 16
Trouble shooting 62
U
Upper thread 16
V
Vari-overlock seam 52
W
Winding the bobbin 12
Z
Zippers 38
Page 66
2 Important safety Instructions
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
4 Details
10 Setting up the sewing computer
21 Operating instructions
30 Stitches
33 Presser feet
Selected practical stitches:
34 • Securing program
35 • Basting stitch
36 • Blind hem
37 • Darning program
38 • Zippers
39 • Buttonholes
50 • Button sewing-on program
52 • Overlock
65Contents
55 • Honeycomb
56 Needle, Thread, Fabric Feed
60 Cleaning, Maintenance, Troubleshooting
63 Index
A1–A6 Appendix
Page 67
66
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Impressum
Typesetting, Layout, DTP: Silvia Bartholdi
Graphics: Müller-Melzer ID, Kreuzlingen
© copyright 2003 by Fritz Gegauf AG, Steckborn
03/03 EN 030 529 52 04
Page 68
Stitches
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
A1activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Stitches
Practical
1 Straight stitch
2 Zig-zag
3 Vari-overlock
4 Running stitch
5 Quilters securing program
6 Triple straight and zig-zag
7 Blind stitch
8 Double overlock
9 Blanket stitch
10 Standard buttonhole
11 Keyhole buttonhole
12 Button sewing-on program
13 Darning program
14 Basting stitch
15 Honeycomb stitch
16 Sewn-out zig-zag
17 Universal stitch
18 Gathering stitch
Quilting stitches
19 Stipple stitch
20 Handlook Quilt stitch
21 Double blanket stitch
22 Feather stitch
23–30 Decorative stitches
activa 135 S PE
1
4
7
#
11
16
21
26
12
17
22 23
27
2
5
8
0
1413
18
28 29
19
24
a 135 S 6 feet standard
a 145 S 7 feet standard
a 135 S PE 7 feet standard
3
–#2
+#20
+#37
6
9
clr
del
15
20
25
30
Page 69
activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Straight stitch with securing programA2
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Quilters securing program
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Quilters securing program No. 5
80 Quilting, Jeans, Sharp, or Microtex
cotton/polyester or Monofilament for the upper thread
and cotton or polyester for the lower thread
raised (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Walking foot No. 50 (optional)
Securing program
•
for all fabrics
•
secures seam begin and end
Seam begin
•
sewing computer secures automatically (6 short stitches forwards)
•
continues sewing straight stitch forwards
Seam end
•
press the reverse button = sewing computer secures
automatically (6 short stitches forwards)
•
stops automatically when securing is complete
TIP
•
when quilting, the quilt
securing program can be
combined for example with
the handlook quilt stitch
No. 20
•
for work which is likely to be
subjected to heavy wear or
laundering, use straight stitch
No. 1 for securing
Page 70
Blanket stitch
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
A3activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Blanket stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Single blanket stitch No. 9 or Double blanket stitch No. 21
80
machine thread
sewing
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Open Embroidery Foot No. 20
center
Preparation
•
cut desired applique shapes
•
fuse or baste as desired to a background fabric
Sewing
•
place the fabric under the needle and position it so the wide
portion of the stitch will form on the applique and the straight
portion will fall just outside of it on the background fabric
•
stitch around entire applique shape
TIP
•
for a hand-stitched look,
increase the stitch length and
width when appliqueing
heavy fabrics such as felt,
flannel, and Ultra Suede®
Page 71
activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Stipple stitchA4
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Stipple stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Stipple stitch No. 19
80
machine thread
sewing
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
center
Preparation
•
prepare a «quilt sandwich» by placing a layer of batting
between the quilt top and the backing fabric (fabric will be
right sides out)
•
pin or baste layers together
Sewing
•
place the quilt sandwich under the needle and sew the stipple
stitch as desired across the fabric.
Bild PE 140
Nähanleitung S. 24
oben rechts
Page 72
Handlook quilt stitch
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
A5activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Handlook quilting
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Tension:
Balance:
Hand-look quilt stitch No. 20
80 Quilting, Jeans, Sharp, or Microtex
0.044 monofilament for the upper thread and
40 or 30 weight cotton for the lower thread
sewing
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Walking foot No. 50 (optional)
as desired
tighten to 6– 9
adjust if necessary
Preparation
•
prepare a «quilt sandwich» by placing a layer of batting
between the quilt top and the backing fabric (fabric will be
right sides out)
•
pin or baste layers together
Sewing
•
place the quilt sandwich under the needle and sew the handlook quilt stitch as desired across the fabric
•
the bobbin thread should pull to the surface of the fabric and
give the appearance of a hand-sewn running stitch
TIP
•
moderate speed for best
results
Page 73
activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Feather stitchA6
030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN
Feather stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Feather stitch No. 22
80
machine thread
sewing
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Open Embroidery Foot No. 20
center
Use this delicate embroidery stitch to embellish fabric or
to cover patchwork seams.
Preparation
•
piece patchwork shapes as desired
Sewing
•
place the fabric under the needle and position it so the center
portion of the stitch will fall «in-the-ditch» of the seam
•
stitch, embellishing seams as desired
TIP
•
for variety, increase or
decrease the length and
width of the pre-programmed
feather stitch
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