Bernina 880 Plus User Manual

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Page 1

BERNINA 880 PLUS

Page 2

Introduction

Dear BERNINA Customer

Congratulations! You have decided on BERNINA and therefore on a product which will delight you for years. For more than 100 years our family company has attached greatest importance to satisfied customers. As for me, it is a matter of personal concern to offer you Swiss development and precision at the height of perfection, futureorientated sewing technology and a comprehensive customer service.

The BERNINA 880 PLUS is our top model - and during its development not only was focus placed on technique and ease of use but also the design of the product was well considered. After all we sell our products to creative people like you, who do not only appreciate high quality but also form and design. By means of the BERNINA sewing and embroidery system 880 PLUS, sewing and embroidering becomes faster, more intelligent, more constant, more creative and is even more fun.

Enjoy creative sewing, embroidering and quilting on your new BERNINA 880 PLUS and keep informed about the various accessories at www.bernina.com. On our homepage you will also find a lot of inspiring sewing instructions, to be downloaded for free.

Our highly trained BERNINA dealers will provide you with more information on service and maintenance offers.

I wish you lots of pleasure and many creative hours with your new BERNINA.

H.P. Ueltschi Owner BERNINA International AG CH-8266 Steckborn www.bernina.com

1st Edition

Page 3

Safety Instructions

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:

Read all the instructions before using this sewing-/embroidery computer.

When the sewing-/embroidery computer is not in use, it should be disconnected from the electricity supply by removing the plug from the outlet.

DANGER!

To reduce the risk of electrical shock:

1. The sewing-/embroidery computer should

never be left unattended when plugged in.

2. Always unplug this sewing-/embroidery

computer from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

3. LED Radiation – Do not view directly with

optical instruments. Class 1M LED product.

WARNING!

To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:

1. Use this sewing-/embroidery computer only

for purposes as described in this manual. Use only attachments, accessories and parts recommended by the manufacturer.

2. Do not allow this sewing-/embroidery

computer to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing-/embroidery computer is used by or near children and infirm persons. The sewing-/embroidery computer is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the sewing-/embroidery computer by a person responsible for their safety. To ensure children do not play with

the sewing-/embroidery computer they must be supervised.

3. Never operate this sewing-/embroidery

computer if:

⦁

it has a damaged cord or plug

⦁

it is not working properly

⦁

it has been dropped or damaged

⦁

it has fallen into water Return the sewing-/embroidery computer to your local authorized BERNINA dealer for examination or repair.

4. Never operate the sewing-/embroidery

computer with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing-/ embroidery computer free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts.

Special care is required around the sewing needle.

6. Never insert any objects into any openings on

the sewing-/embroidery computer.

7. Do not use the sewing-/embroidery computer

outdoors.

8. Do not operate the sewing-/embroidery

computer where aerosol products (sprays) or oxygen are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

9. Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching.

This may deflect the needle, causing it to break.

10. Do not use bent needles.

11. Always use the original BERNINA stitch plate.

The wrong stitch plate can cause needle breakage.

12. To disconnect, turn power switch to «0» (off),

then remove the plug from the outlet. Do not unplug by pulling the cord, instead grasp the plug to pull it from the outlet.

13. Turn power switch to «0» (off) when making

any adjustments in the needle area, such as changing the needle or the presser foot, etc.

14. Always unplug the sewing-/embroidery

computer from the electrical outlet when carrying out cleaning or maintenance work or any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual.

15. This sewing-/embroidery computer is provided

with double insulation (except USA and Canada). Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for servicing of doubleinsulated products.

Page 4

Safety Instructions

SERVICING DOUBLEINSULATED PRODUCTS

In a double-insulated product two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a doubleinsulated product, nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should be done only by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a double-insulated product must be identical to the original parts in the product. A double-insulated product is marked with the words: «DOUBLE INSULATION» or «DOUBLE INSULATED».

The symbol product.

may also be marked on the

DISCLAIMER

Environmental Protection

BERNINA is committed to the protection of the environment. We strive to minimize the environmental impact of our products by continuously improving product design and our technology of manufacturing.

When your sewing computer won't be used anymore, dispose this product in an environmentally responsible way according to the national directive. Do not throw away this product with your household waste. In case of doubt, please contact your BERNINA dealer.

If the sewing computer is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a warm room about one hour before use.

No liability will be assumed for any possible damage which arises from misuse of this sewing-/ embroidery computer. This sewing-/embroidery computer is intended for household use only. This sewing-/embroidery computer meets the European Standard 2004/108/EC concerning the electromagnetic tolerance.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS!

Please find the latest version of your instruction manual at www.bernina.com

Page 5

Contents

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS 2

Environmental Protection 3

Key to Signs 10

Breadcrumb navigation 10

Formatting the USB stick 10

Accessory Sewing 11

Standard Accessories 11

Presser feet 12

Accessory box free standing 13

Bobbin 13

Overview sewing computer 14

Front view 14

Detail view 14

Important Sewing information 16

Thread 16

Needle, thread and fabric 16

Needles, threads 17

⦁

Correct needle/Thread combination 17

⦁

Too thin thread or too thick needle 17

⦁

Too thick thread or too thin needle 17

Overview needles 18

Sewing preparation 19

Battery 19

Power Switch/Power Cable 19

Magnetic holder for Touchscreen pen 19

Foot control 20

Slide-on table 20

⦁

Seam guide 20

Presser foot lifter 21

Pivotable Triple Spool Holder 21

Winding the Bobbin 22

⦁

Preparation 22

⦁

Winding the Bobbin 22

⦁

Manual mode 22

⦁

Interrupting the winding process 22

⦁

Continuing the winding process 22

Removing the Bobbin 23

⦁

Removing the Bobbin 23

⦁

Inserting the Bobbin 23

⦁

Threading lower thread 23

⦁

Thread cutter lower thread 23

⦁

Check the threading path 23

Threading the Upper Thread 24

⦁

Automatic 24

⦁

Manual 24

Changing the needle 25

⦁

Removing the needle 25

⦁

Inserting the needle 25

Threading Double/Triple Needle 26

⦁

Threading Double Needle 26

⦁

Working with the Double needle 26

⦁

Triple Needle 26

⦁

Changing the thread 26

Changing the presser foot 27

⦁

Removing the presser foot 27

⦁

Attaching the presser foot 27

Stitch plate 27

⦁

Marks on the stitch plate 27

⦁

Removing the Stitch Plate 27

⦁

Replacing the Stitch Plate 27

Thread-Guide-and-Lubricating Unit 28

⦁

As a thread-guide eyelet (Fig. 1) 28

⦁

As a thread lubricator (Fig. 2) 28

⦁

Assembly 28

⦁

Various Options of Application 29

Radial Thread Guide 29

⦁

Application 29

Upper thread tension 30

⦁

Altering upper thread tension 30

⦁

Saving the upper thread tension 30

⦁

Back to basic settings 30

Lower Thread Tension 31

Security Program 32

⦁

Display 32

⦁

Selecting the needle 32

⦁

Selecting the stitch plate 32

⦁

Saving 32

Needle Chart 32

⦁

Selecting needle 32

Selecting a Presser Foot 33

⦁

Display 33

⦁

Optional presser feet 33

⦁

Saving 33

⦁

Return to basic settings 33

Altering presser foot pressure 34

⦁

When sewing thick material, e.g. quilting 34

⦁

Saving presser foot pressure 34

⦁

Resetting the basic setting 34

Feed dog position 34

⦁

Feed dog position down 34

⦁

Feed dog position up 34

Bobbin filling 34

Alarm 35

⦁

Setting the time of the alarm 35

⦁

Individual alarm message 35

⦁

Deleting an alarm message 35

⦁

Corrections 35

⦁

Alarm Display 35

Feed dog and Fabric feed 36

Functions 38

Overview «Function»-buttons 38

⦁

«Start/Stop»-button 38

⦁

«Quick reverse»/«Permanent reverse sewing»-button 38

⦁

Slide speed control 38

⦁

«Automatic threader»-button 38

Page 6

Contents

⦁

Programmable «Pattern end-/Securing»-button 38

⦁

«Needle stop»-button 39

⦁

«Automatic Securing Program»-button 39

⦁

«Presser foot position»-button 39

⦁

«Automatic thread cutter»-button 39

⦁

Stitch width and Stitch length Knobs (Multifunction) 39

⦁

«Needle position»-buttons 39

⦁

Needle stop position up and «Quick reverse»-button 39

⦁

Needle stop position down and «Quick reverse»button 39

Display 40

Overview Main Display 40

⦁

System settings 40

⦁

External Functions/Views 40

⦁

Menu Selection 40

⦁

Selection 41

⦁

Stitch Pattern Area 41

⦁

Stitch Pattern Display 41

Functions - Display 42

Sewing Functions Overview 42

Scrolling Functions 42

General Functions 42

Overview Functions Buttonholes 46

Overview Functions Alphabets 47

Overview Functions Combi mode 48

⦁

Deleting Welcome text 60

⦁

Corrections 60

Monitoring 60

⦁

Upper-/Lower thread indicator/Thread knots 60

Altering the acoustic signals 61

⦁

Selecting Stitch Pattern/Function/BSR 61

Sewing computer settings 61

⦁

Language selection 61

⦁

Display settings 62

⦁

Display Calibration 62

⦁

Basic setting 63

Cleaning/Update 64

⦁

Calibrating Buttonhole foot No. 3A 64

⦁

Updating the sewing-/embroidery computer 64

⦁

Cleaning the thread clamp/Thread catcher 65

⦁

Cleaning the thread catcher 65

⦁

Lubricating the machine 66

⦁

Packing position 66

⦁

Setting the clock 66

Information 67

⦁

Version 67

⦁

Dealer details 67

⦁

Service data 67

⦁

ID Number 68

⦁

UPGRADE 68

Tutorial 69

Overview Tutorial 69

Setup-Program 52

Overview «Setup»-Display 52

Sewing settings 53

⦁

Altering Upper thread tension 53

⦁

Sewing speed control 53

⦁

Securing stitches when starting to sew 53

⦁

Programming «Function»-buttons/«Function»-icon 54

⦁

Automatic securing program 54

⦁

Automatic thread cutter 54

⦁

Raising the presser foot 54

⦁

Programming «Securing»-button 54

⦁

Hover position of the presser foot 54

⦁

Automatic thread cutter and securing stitches 55

⦁

Programming «Quick reverse»-button 55

⦁

Presser foot position with needle stop down 55

⦁

Programming the foot control 56

⦁

Programming securing stitches 56

⦁

Automatic thread cutter 56

⦁

Raising the presser foot 56

Embroidery settings 57

⦁

Centering or opening embroidery motifs in the original position 57

⦁

Calibrating the embroidery hoop 57

⦁

Fabric Thickness 58

⦁

Function thread removal on/off 58

⦁

Programming the securing stitches 58

⦁

Adjusting the thread cut 59

⦁

Changing the measuring unit 59

Personal settings 60

⦁

Welcome text 60

Creative Consultant 70

Overview Creative Consultant 70

Overview Sewing techniques/Recommendations 70

Leaving the Creative consultant 70

Help Program 71

⦁

Stitch patterns 71

⦁

Functions 71

⦁

Leaving the Help Program 71

Balance 72

Practical and decorative stitches, alphabets 72

⦁

Practical and decorative stitches 72

⦁

Corrections 72

⦁

Sideways-motion patterns 72

⦁

Vertical corrections 73

⦁

Horizontal corrections 73

⦁

Back to basic settings 73

BERNINA Dual Transport 73

⦁

Balance BERNINA Dual Transport 73

⦁

Back to basic setting 73

eco description 74

⦁

Activating eco 74

⦁

Deactivating eco 74

Page 7

Contents

Practical stitches 76

Overview Practical stitches 76

Selecting stitch pattern 78

⦁

Direct-Option 1 78

⦁

Direct-Option 2 78

⦁

By stitch number 78

⦁

Cancelling 78

Customizing stitch patterns individually 79

Temporary Altered Stitch Memory 79

Personal memory permanent 80

Altering stitch width and stitch length 81

Application Examples of Practical Stitches 82

Straight stitch 82

Triple Straight Stitch 82

Triple Zig-zag 83

Zipper 84

Manual darning 85

Automatic Darning 86

Reinforced darning, automatic 87

Reinforced Darning program 87

Finishing Edges 88

Double overlock 88

Topstitching edges 89

Blind Hems 90

Visible Hem 90

Securing Program 91

Basting Stitch 91

Flat joining seam 92

Height Compensation of uneven layers 93

Sewing Corners 93

Buttonholes 94

Overview Buttonholes 94

Important information 96

⦁

Marking the length of manual buttonholes 96

⦁

Marking the length of automatic buttonholes 96

⦁

Marking the length of keyhole buttonholes 96

⦁

Test sample 96

⦁

Adjusting the bead width 96

⦁

Altering the stitch length 96

Stabilizer 97

Cord 98

⦁

Ideal cords 98

⦁

Cord with the automatic Buttonhole foot No. 3A 98

⦁

Cord with the Buttonhole foot No. 3C (optional accessory) 98

⦁

Fixing the cord 98

⦁

Cutting buttonholes open with the seam ripper 98

⦁

Cutting open buttonholes with the buttonhole cutter (optional accessory) 98

Altering the balance 99

⦁

Balance with direct entry length buttonholes 99

⦁

Balance with direct entry length keyhole or round buttonholes 99

⦁

Balance for manual keyhole or round buttonhole 99

⦁

Balance for manual standard buttonhole 99

⦁

Balance for stitch counter buttonhole 99

⦁

Clear Balance 99

Programming buttonholes 100

Standard and stretch buttonhole with auto-length, automatically 100

Automatic with Direct Entry Length 101

Automatic with Button measuring 101

Automatic round and keyhole buttonhole 102

Heirloom Buttonhole 104

Stitch Counter Buttonhole 104

Buttonhole in Long Term Memory 105

7- or 5-step Buttonhole, manually 107

Button sew-on program 108

Eyelet Program 109

Decorative Stitches 110

Overview Decorative Stitches 110

Application 110

Tapering 111

⦁

Altering angle 111

⦁

Tapering Functions 112

Stitch Designer 114

Stitch designer functions 114

Creating or editing stitch design 116

⦁

Opening the Stitch Designer 116

⦁

Creating a stitch design using the guides 116

⦁

Creating stitch designs using screen dots 116

⦁

Free hand drawing 116

⦁

Selecting and moving a single point 117

⦁

Moving several stitches 117

⦁

Inserting a point 117

⦁

Duplicating 117

⦁

Reversing the stitch sequence 118

⦁

Sewing stitch designs 118

Application examples of Decorative stitches 119

Cross Stitch 119

Pintucks 120

Bobbin-Play Sewing 122

Quilt Stitches 123

Overview Quilt Stitches 123

Application examples of Quilt stitches 124

Handlook quilt stitch 124

Free-motion quilting 125

Page 8

Contents

BSR (BERNINA Stitch Regulator) 126

Quilting with BSR 126

⦁

BSR-Function 126

⦁

BSR function with straight stitch No. 1 126

⦁

BSR function with zig-zag No. 2 126

⦁

Two different BSR modes 126

⦁

Preparation 127

⦁

Remove presser foot sole 127

⦁

Attaching the presser foot sole 127

Functions in the BSR mode 128

⦁

Needle stop down (standard) 128

⦁

Needle stop up 128

⦁

Raising or lowering the needle 128

⦁

Securing with «Start/Stop»-button (only Mode 1) 128

⦁

Securing function (only Mode 2) 128

⦁

Free motion quilting (only Mode 2) 128

⦁

Free motion quilting without BSR activation 128

⦁

Beeper (audio signal) activation/deactivation 129

⦁

Selecting sound for BSR in the Setup Program 129

⦁

Selecting sound for BSR in the «BSR»-Display 129

⦁

Activating BSR Sewing Function 130

⦁

Deactivating BSR Sewing Function by using «Start/Stop»-button 130

⦁

BSR Function deactivation 130

BERNINA Dual Feed 132

⦁

Presser Feet Selection 132

⦁

Switching on BERNINA Dual Feed 132

⦁

Switching off BERNINA Dual Feed 132

Fabrics 133

Alphabets 134

Overview Alphabets 134

⦁

Lettering 134

⦁

Perfect stitch formation 134

Combining characters 135

⦁

Selecting the next letter 135

⦁

Large view of the Display 135

⦁

Corrections 135

Correcting the combination 136

⦁

Inserting character 136

⦁

Deleting Letters 136

Alphabet in combination with functions 136

⦁

Selecting lower case letters 136

⦁

Altering font size 136

Monograms 137

⦁

Monogram Sizes 138

⦁

Balance 138

Personal Program 139

Creating a personal Display 139

Preparing stitch patterns 139

⦁

Programming/Saving first stitch pattern 139

⦁

Programming/Saving second stitch pattern 140

⦁

Stitch pattern selection in the Personal program 140

⦁

Personal Display 140

Altering/Overwriting stitch patterns 141

Deleting stitch patterns 142

Combi Mode 143

Creating Stitch pattern combinations 143

⦁

Programming and saving 143

Deleting Stitch patterns 144

⦁

Deleting individual stitches 144

⦁

Deleting entire combination 144

Overview Combination 144

Opening a saved combination 145

Correcting a stitch pattern combination 146

⦁

Inserting a stitch pattern 146

⦁

Altering stitch patterns 146

⦁

Adjusting the length within the combination 146

⦁

Adjusting the width within the combination 147

⦁

Mirroring complete combinations 147

⦁

Combination subdivider 1 147

⦁

Combination Subdivider 2 147

⦁

Moving individual stitch patterns in a combination 148

⦁

Moving multiple stitch patterns in a combination 148

⦁

Sewing individual stitch patterns of a combination in any direction 148

⦁

Sewing the complete combination in any direction 148

Stitch pattern combination 149

⦁

Overwriting 149

⦁

Deleting 149

History 150

Accessory Embroidery 151

Standard Accessory 151

Embroidery module 152

Detail view 152

Important Embroidery information 153

Embroidery threads 153

Lower threads 153

Choosing the embroidery motif 154

Embroidery test 154

Scaling/Sizing motifs 154

Selecting the embroidery file format 154

Different stitch types 155

⦁

Underlay stitches 155

⦁

Satin stitch 155

⦁

Step stitch 155

⦁

Connecting stitches 155

Preparing for embroidery 156

Attaching the Module 156

Embroidery foot/Embroidery needle 156

Straight-/CutWork stitch plate 157

Threading lower thread 157

⦁

Checking the thread position 157

Thread-up command 157

Page 9

Contents

Embroidery hoop 158

⦁

Center determination 158

⦁

Using the embroidery hoop 158

⦁

Embroidery template 158

⦁

Hooping the material 158

Stabilizer 159

Stabilizers 159

Adhesive Spray 159

Iron-on interfacing 160

⦁

Paper-backed adhesive stabilizer 160

⦁

Water soluble stabilizer 160

Functions 161

Overview «Function»-buttons embroidery computer 161

⦁

«Start/Stop»-button 161

⦁

«Automatic thread cutter»-button 161

⦁

«Presser foot position»-button 161

⦁

«Automatic threading»-button 161

⦁

Slide speed control 161

⦁

Stitch width and stitch length knob 161

Overview Display 162

Entry to Embroidery mode 162

My Designs 178

⦁

Motif Overview 178

Motifs in combination with functions 179

Moving the motif 179

Rotating the motif 179

Altering the embroidery motif size proportionally 179

Altering the embroidery motif size disproportionally 180

Mirror motifs 180

Pinpoint placement 180

Grouping embroidery motifs 182

Changing the sequence within an embroidery motif combination 182

Undoing entries 183

Select hoop 184

⦁

Motif Center 184

⦁

Grid 184

Absolute Embroidery check 185

⦁

Checking the motif size 185

Zoom 186

⦁

Moving the motif 186

Motif size and embroidery time 186

Embroidery consultant 163

Overview Embroidery consultant 163

Overview Material 163

Overview Embroidery techniques/ recommendations 163

Embroidery Alphabet 164

BERNINA Embroidery motifs 166

BERNINA Stitch patterns 166

My Designs 167

Embroidery motif from USB stick 167

«Edit»-Display 168

Overview «Edit»-Display 170

Scrolling Functions 170

General Functions 170

Overview Embroidery menu 174

Overview Selection menu 175

Overview Color Display 176

Motifs 177

Selecting a motif 177

Alphabets 177

⦁

Selecting alphabet 177

⦁

Entering/Correcting lettering 177

⦁

Deleting lettering 177

⦁

Corrections 177

BERNINA embroidery motifs 178

⦁

Motif Overview 178

Stitch patterns 178

⦁

Stitch pattern overview 178

Endless Embroidery 187

⦁

Increase/decrease number of motifs 187

⦁

Increase/decrease spacing 187

⦁

Fit to hoop 187

Free arm embroidering 189

Shape designer 190

⦁

Selecting the formation 190

⦁

Increasing/reducing the number of motifs 190

⦁

Altering the size of the formation shape 190

⦁

Rotating the motifs 191

⦁

Mirroring motifs 191

⦁

Embroidering the motifs 191

⦁

Closing the «Shape designer»-Display 191

Combinations 192

Creating combinations 192

⦁

Adding a motif 192

⦁

Duplicating a motif 192

⦁

Duplicating a combination 192

Lettering 193

⦁

Combining 193

⦁

Positioning 193

⦁

Further text lines 193

Lettering and Embroidery motifs 194

⦁

Combining 194

⦁

Adjusting text to motif 194

⦁

Lettering Manipulation 194

⦁

Deleting stitch patterns/individual characters/text 194

Change stitch type 195

Fill stitch types 196

⦁

Changing stitch type 196

⦁

Altering stitch density 196

Page 10

Contents

Motif colors 197

⦁

Reallocating motif colors 197

⦁

Changing the colors of the motif via the color wheel 197

⦁

Adjusting the brightness of the colors 198

⦁

Changing the thread brand 198

⦁

Embroidering the motif by color 199

⦁

Reducing color changes 199

⦁

Embroidering motifs in one color 199

⦁

Embroidering lettering in multi colors 199

⦁

Embroidering lettering in one color 199

Basting 200

⦁

Deactivating basting 200

Endless Embroidery 200

Importing stitch patterns from the sewing mode 201

⦁

Selecting stitch patterns in the sewing mode 201

⦁

Selecting stitch patterns in the embroidery mode 201

Saving the motif 202

Memory Embroidery computer 202

USB stick 202

Overwriting motifs 203

Deleting saved single motif 204

⦁

Cancelling delete 204

Deleting all saved motifs 205

⦁

Cancelling delete 205

Starting to embroider 206

Select hoop 206

⦁

Attaching the embroidery hoop 206

⦁

Attaching the hoop to the embroidery arm 206

⦁

Removing the hoop 206

Embroidery menu 207

Embroidering using the «Start/Stop/hover»button 207

⦁

Interrupting the process 207

⦁

Completing the color 207

⦁

Color change 207

⦁

«Embroidery»-Display 207

⦁

Embroidery speed 207

⦁

End of embroidery 208

Embroidering via foot control 208

⦁

Interrupting the process 208

⦁

Completing the color 208

⦁

Color change 208

⦁

«Embroidery»-Display 208

Troubleshooting 212

Overview Stitch patterns 221

Practical stitches 221

Buttonholes 221

Decorative stitches 221

Quilt stitches 225

Alphabets 227

Overview Motifs 236

Diane Gaudynski 236

Exotic Rainforest 238

Floral Etchings 241

Projects 243

Shaping designs 245

Monograms 249

DesignWorks designs 251

BC Embellishment 252

BC Quilting 254

BC Borders 256

BC Flowers 258

BC Seasons 260

BC Children 261

BC Hobby 263

BC Animals 264

BC Flowers Outline 265

BC Switzerland 266

Projects 267

Charming Monograms 268

Homedeco 270

Alphabets 272

Index 274

Thread breakage when embroidering 209

Upper or lower thread breaks 209

Embroidery sequence control when thread breaks 209

⦁

Returning to original position 209

⦁

Resuming embroidery 209

Cleaning 210

⦁

Exchanging the battery 211

Page 11

Key to Signs

DANGER!

Very important! Risk of injury!

ATTENTION!

Very important! Risk of damage!

Tips!

Breadcrumb navigation

Formatting the USB stick

1 Setup program is selected 2 Sewing settings are selected 3 Programming «Function»-button/«Function»-icon is selected 4 Programming hovering position of the presser foot is selected

⦁

having selected the corresponding icon (as for this example 1-3) the desired display opens

USB stick must be inserted into the PC and be formatted as FAT 32 before use.

For technical and product improvement reasons, the sewing computer's features, parts and accessory are subject to unannounced changes and alterations at any time. The accessory included can differ from country to country.

Page 12

Accessory Sewing

Standard Accessories

Accessory

1 Presser foot lifter 2 Foot control 3 Soft Cover with pocket 4 Accessory box 5 Power cable 6 Seam guide for slide-on table 7 Straight-/CutWork stitch plate 8 Slide-on table

1213 11

9 Bobbins (one of them in the sewing computer) 10 Adjustable guides

11 Wire threader for threading cording for bobbin

play

12 Tweezers 13 2 nets 14 Cording attachment 15 Small screwdriver, gray 16 Magnifying glass adapter/Spool Holder 17 Touchscreen pen 18 Seam ripper

19 Lint brush 20 Multifunction tool 21 Manual threader

22 Spool disc small 23 Holder for king-size spools, cone holder 24 Height compensating tool 25 Needle pack 130/705H 26 Lubricator 27 Monitoring mirror 28 USB stick 29 Hook cleaning tool 30 Thread-Guide-and-Lubricating Unit

Page 13

Accessory

Presser feet

21 4

1 No. 1C Reverse pattern foot 2 No. 1D Reverse pattern foot 3 No. 2A Overlock foot 4 No. 3A Automatic buttonhole foot

with slide

5 No. 3C Buttonhole foot 6 No. 4D Zipper foot 7 No. 5 Blind stitch foot 8 No. 18 Button sew-on foot

10 11

9 No. 20C Open embroidery foot 10 No. 40C Sideways motion foot 11 No. 42 BSR foot

12 No. 26 Embroidery foot

Visit www.bernina.com for more accessory information.

Page 14

Accessory box free standing

Accessory

⦁

on the back of the box, pull both extensions out until they click into place

Lay-out

The box is equipped as standard with one large 1 and one small 2 drawer as well as a compartment for bobbin holders 5 and presser feet 7.

⦁

to remove a bobbin, press the compartment holder 6 lightly

⦁

buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A can be stored in the left compartment 4

⦁

store the needle package in the special compartment 3

Storage example

Bobbin

ATTENTION!

Treat the bobbins with care. Keep the white sensor surfaces free of scratches or stains to ensure correct functioning of the lower thread indicator. Store the bobbins in the respective compartment of the accessories box.

The bobbin of the B 880 PLUS, exclusive to BERNINA, supplies up to 40% more lower thread. If the bobbin is not inserted correctly, an error message is displayed.

You can preselect a bobbin fill of 25%, 50% or 100%.

Page 15

Overview sewing computer

Front view

10 9

1314

Detail view

Page 16

Overview sewing computer

1 Bobbin cover 2 Stitch plate 3 Special-accessories port 4 Presser foot 5 LED-Sewing light 6 Needle clamp 7 «Quick reverse»-button 8 «Start/Stop»-button 9 «Automatic thread cutter»-

button

10 «Presser foot lift»-button 11 «Securing»-button 12 «Needle stop up/down»-

button

13 «Pattern end»-button 14 «Automatic needle

threader»-button

15 Slide speed control 16 Display 17 Carrying handle 18 «Sewing support»-buttons

⦁

«Home»-button

⦁

«Setup»-button

⦁

«Tutorial»-button

⦁

«Creative-/Embroidery Consultant»-button

⦁

«Help»-button

⦁

«eco»-button

⦁

«clr»-button (clear)

19 Stitch width knob 20 Stitch length knob

21 «Needle position»-buttons 22 Magnetic holder for

Touchscreen pen

23 Bobbin winder 24 Thread cutter for bobbin

winder

25 Threading slit 26 Bobbin pre-tension 27 Triple spool pin 28 Telescope 29 Handwheel 30 USB-connection 31 PC-connection 32 Foot control socket 33 Power switch On «I»/

Off «0»

34 Power plug socket 35 Air vents 36 Connection for Magnifying

glass (optional accessory)

37 Thread cutter on the

headframe

38 Special-accessories port 39 BSR-connection 40 BERNINA Dual Feed 41 Darning hoop connection 42 Slide-on table socket 43 Free Hand System

connection

USA/Canada only: The sewing computer has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way!

Page 17

Important Sewing information

Thread

Be sure to select the appropriate thread type and weight for the fabric. For a perfect sewing result, thread and fabric quality play an important role. It is recommended to use quality brands.

Cotton threads

 cotton threads have the advantage of being a natural fiber and therefore

are especially suitable for sewing cotton fabrics

 if cotton thread is mercerized, it has a slight sheen that is not lost with

washing

Polyester threads

 polyester threads have a high tensile strength and are particularly colorfast  polyester threads are more flexible and are recommended where a strong

and elastic seam is required

Rayon threads

 rayon threads are made of natural fibers and have a brilliant sheen  rayon threads are suitable for decorative stitches and achieve a more

beautiful effect

Needle, thread and fabric

ATTENTION!

Check the needle condition. As a guide: Replace the needle before starting a new sewing project. A defective needle does not only damage the sewing project but also the sewing computer.

Care must be taken when choosing needle and thread.

The correct needle size depends on the selected thread and fabric. The fabric weight and type determine the thread weight, needle size and point form.

Page 18

Needles, threads

Important Sewing information

Correct needle/Thread combination

To sew optimally, the thread should travel smoothly down the long groove on the front of the needle.

Too thin thread or too thick needle

The thread has too much clearance in the long groove. Skipped stitches and damage to the thread can occur.

Too thick thread or too thin needle

The thread rubs on the edges of the long groove and can get jammed. This can result in thread breakage.

Guidelines

Material and thread Needle size

Light weight materials: Fine thread (darning thread, embroidery thread) 70-75

Medium weight materials: Sewing thread 80-90

Heavy weight materials: Sewing thread (quilting thread, topstitching) 100, 110, 120

130/705 H-S/70

1 130 Shank length 2 705 Flat shank 3 H Needle scarf 4 S Needle point (here e.g. medium ball point) 5 70 Needle size 0.7 mm

Page 19

Important Sewing information

Overview needles

Universal

130/705 H/60-100

Normal point, slightly rounded

For nearly all natural and synthetic fabrics (woven and knitted)

Jersey/Stretch

130/705 H-S, H-SES, H-SUK/70-90

Ball point

Jersey, knit and stretch material

Leather

130/705 H-LL, H-LR/90-100

With cutting point

All types of leather, synthetic leather, plastic, sheeting

Jeans

130/705 H-J/80-110

Metafil

130/705 H-MET/75-80 or H-SUK/90-100

Large eye

Sewing with metallic threads

Cordonnet (Topstitching)

130/705 H-N/80-100

Small ball point, long eye

Topstitching with thick thread

Wing needle (Hemstitch needle)

130/705 HO/100-120

Wide needle (wing)

Hemstitching

Double wing needle

130/705 H-ZWI-HO/100

Very fine sharp point

Heavy weight fabrics such as denim, canvas, overalls

Microtex

130/705 H-M/60-90

Especially fine sharp point

Mircro fiber fabrics and silk

Quilting

130/705 H-Q/75-90

Fine sharp point

Straight and topstitching

Embroidery

130/705 H-SUK/70-90

For special effects with hemstitch embroidery

Double needle

130/705 H-ZWI/70-100

Needle distance:

1.0/1.6/2.0/2.5/3.0/4.0/6.0/8.0

Visible hems in stretch fabrics, pintucks, decorative sewing

Triple needle

130/705 H-DRI/80

Needle distance: 3.0

Visible hems in stretch fabrics; Decorative sewing

Large eye, slight ball point

Embroidery on all natural and synthetic fabrics

Page 20

Sewing preparation

Battery

Power Switch/Power Cable

Sewing preparation

⦁

please remove the protective sticker of the battery before taking the sewing computer in use

1 Power Switch The sewing computer is switched on («I») and off («0») with the power switch.

1 2

Magnetic holder for Touchscreen pen

I the sewing computer is switched on 0 the sewing computer is switched off

2 Power plug socket 3 Foot control socket 4 PC-connection 5 USB-connection

The Touchscreen pen can be stored easily and securely at the two magnets 1.

Page 21

Sewing preparation

Foot control

6 5

Connecting the foot control

⦁

unwind the cable

⦁

plug the cable in the outlet 1

⦁

unwind the cable to the desired length and slip into 4 or 5

Sewing speed control Control the sewing speed by pressing the foot control 2.

Raising or lowering the needle

⦁

sink the heel back 3 on the foot control

►

the needle adjusts the position up/down

In the Setup-Program additional functions for the «back heel kicking» can be programmed.

Removing the foot control

⦁

wind the cable around the reel

⦁

plug cable into 6

Slide-on table

USA/Canada only: Use only foot controller type LV-1 with sewing computer B 880 PLUS.

The slide-on table increases sewing surface.

Attaching the slide-on table

⦁

turn the handwheel or press the «Needle stop up/down»-button (see page 15)

►

needle is raised

⦁

press «Presser Foot lift»-button

►

presser foot is raised

⦁

slide table to the right, over the free arm until it engages

ATTENTION!

Remove the slide-on table only when bobbin cover is closed.

Removing the slide-on table

⦁

raise the needle and presser foot

⦁

press button 1 down

⦁

pull slide-on table to the left

Seam guide

⦁

press the release button and insert into the groove (underside of table) from left or right

Can be moved over the entire table length.

Page 22

Presser foot lifter

Sewing preparation

Raising or lowering presser foot via FHS.

Pivotable Triple Spool Holder

Attaching the Free Hand System

⦁

insert into the opening 1

Raising and lowering the presser foot

⦁

with your knee, push lever to the right

⦁

you should be able to operate the FHS with your knee in your normal sitting position

►

the presser foot is raised; the feed dog is lowered simultaneously. The thread tension is released

►

the feed dog is raised as soon as the first stitch is sewn

Your dealer can adjust the FHS if necessary.

⦁

remove spool-pin cover vertically upwards

⦁

pull up the telescopic rod and ensure that all the parts snap into place

⦁

swing spool pin to the right until it is engaged

►

this ensures a good overall view and access to the spool pins

►

eyelet 1 is used when winding a bobbin

Page 23

Sewing preparation

Winding the Bobbin

Preparation

⦁

turn power switch on (to «I»)

⦁

place empty bobbin on Pin 1, white mark in front

►

the bobbin winding screen appears

►

the amount of bobbin fill is recognized by the system and displayed by a bar above the selectable bobbin fill

⦁

place thread spool on the front spool pin 2 and thread the respective guides 3 on the telescope

Winding the Bobbin

⦁

hold thread with both hands, guide the thread in the thread guide on the swivel plate 4 in the direction of the arrows and around the bobbin pretension 5

⦁

wind the thread one to two times around the empty bobbin 6 following the direction of the arrows and pull any excess thread in the direction of the arrows, cut off on the thread cutter 7

⦁

select the bobbin filling, standard = 100%

⦁

touch the green «Start»-icon 8

⦁

adjust the winding speed via the «+»- or «-»-icon or the stitch width or stitch length knob

►

winding process stops as soon as the selected fill percentage is reached

⦁

remove the bobbin and pull the thread over the thread cutter

►

the screen is closed

⦁

touch the «i»-icon in the bobbin winder Display

►

an animation how to wind the lower thread appears

Manual mode

⦁

touch the «man»-icon

►

the winder will run as long as the «Start»-icon is pressed

Interrupting the winding process

⦁

the winding process can be interrupted while winding by touching the «Start»-icon 8 and the Display can be closed by touching the «Close»-icon top right

Continuing the winding process

⦁

touch the «bobbin»-icon 9

►

the winding Display opens

⦁

touch «Start» to start winding process

►

the winding process is continued

It is possible to wind the bobbin while embroidering.

We recommend, however, to reduce the winding speed.

Page 24

Removing the Bobbin

Sewing preparation

ATTENTION!

Only remove the bobbin if the hook is at the end position (threading position).

Removing the Bobbin

⦁

open bobbin cover

►

the hook system swings to the front

⦁

push the latch in the center of the bobbin to the left

⦁

the bobbin pops out and can be removed

Inserting the Bobbin

⦁

with bobbin markings facing the front, place the bobbin into the hook and push until it clicks into place

Threading lower thread

⦁

pull the thread to the right into slit 1 then left under the spring

Thread cutter lower thread

⦁

pull thread over thread cutter 2 and cut

Check the threading path

⦁

after threading the hook, hold the mirror under the swung-out hook unit as shown in the pictures below

►

position of bobbin thread when threaded for sewing

⦁

close the bobbin cover slowly

►

the hook swings back to the rear

Page 25

Sewing preparation

Threading the Upper Thread

ATTENTION!

Do not start the threaded sewing-/embroidery computer if there is no fabric on the stitch plate. The sewing-/embroidery computer must be switched ON for threading.

Automatic

⦁

place thread spool on the rear or center spool pin 1

⦁

thread the corresponding guide 2 on the telescopic rod

⦁

hold with both hands and guide into the threading opening 3 of the sewing computer until ...

⦁

... taking it up to the thread guide in the needle clamp 4

⦁

then lead it to the left into the thread clamp 5 and pull it over the thread cutter 6 from the back to the front

⦁

touch the «Automatic threader»-button

►

this will be indicated by a message and shown in an animation

►

during threading the «Start/Stop»-button is illuminated red

►

if the thread has been threaded correctly the «Start/Stop»-button is illuminated green

Manual

⦁

follow the five first steps as described above

⦁

touch the «Manual threading»-icon in the Display

⦁

touch the «Automatic threading»-button, then thread the needle by hand

 when using unruly threads, slip the net over the upper thread

spool  large net for large spools, small net for small spools  this prevents the upper thread from slipping and gives an even

thread feed  place the thread(s) under the presser foot and to the back before

starting to sew

Page 26

Changing the needle

Sewing preparation

Removing the needle

⦁

raise the needle

⦁

remove or lower presser foot (see page 27, 39)

⦁

turn power switch to «0» (off)

⦁

loosen the needle clamp screw 1 using the gray screwdriver

⦁

pull the needle down to remove

Inserting the needle

⦁

flat side of needle to the back

⦁

insert the needle with the mulitfunction tool as far as it will go

⦁

tighten needle clamp 1 using the gray screwdriver

Page 27

Sewing preparation

Threading Double/Triple Needle

Threading Double Needle

⦁

touch the «Security Program»-icon

⦁

touch the corresponding needle icon in the «Security Program»-Display

⦁

close the «Security Program»-Display

⦁

place a thread spool on the center spool pin and one on the rear spool pin and thread the corresponding guides on the telescopic rod

⦁

insert the two threads together into the threading slit, guiding the thread of the rear spool pin behind the thread-tension disc 1 while guiding the thread of the center spool pin in front of the tension disc 1. Then guide the two threads through the thread guide at the needle clamp

⦁

touch the «Manual Threading»-icon in the threading animation Display. Next touch the illuminated automatic threading button

⦁

using the manual threader in your accessory kit, manually thread the left needle and then the right needle

Working with the Double needle

To achieve the best sewing quality: Upper threads must be guided separately into the thread guide of the needle clamp.

⦁

at that point, thread the first thread behind the wire as usual (red arrow), thread the second thread in front of the wire (picture 2)

⦁

the recommended optimal speed for Double Needles ranges from about 350-500 stitches per minute. Set the slide speed control as shown below (picture 3)

⦁

make sure that the threads are not twisted after the thread take-up lever. For a better sight the cover can be removed

As a general guideline:

⦁

replace the needle before starting a new sewing project Needles are wearing parts and by frequent use they change their features. Even after 1.5 hours of useage first abrasions are recognizable. After about 8 hours, increases in thread breakage, loops and poor stitch formation may occur.

Triple Needle

⦁

touch the «Security Program»-icon

⦁

touch the icon of the triple needle in the «Security Program»-Display

⦁

place a thread spool on each spool pin and thread the respective guides on

the telescopic rod

⦁

thread as usual, guiding the thread from the rear and center spool pin in the

threading slit to the rear of thread tension disc 1 and the thread from the

front spool pin in front of the tension disc

Changing the thread

⦁

cut the spool thread before the pre-tension and pull out of the sewing

computer in front of near the needle

Page 28

Changing the presser foot

Stitch plate

Sewing preparation

Removing the presser foot

⦁

raise the needle and presser foot

⦁

turn power switch to «0» (off)

⦁

raise the clamping lever 1

⦁

remove the presser foot

Attaching the presser foot

⦁

guide the presser foot upwards over the cone

⦁

press the clamping lever 1 down

Marks on the stitch plate

 the stitch plate is marked with vertical, horizontal and diagonal lines in mm

and inches

 the lines help to guide the fabric for sewing seams and precise topstitching,

etc.

 the horizontal markings are helpful for sewing corners and buttonholes, etc.  the diagonal markings are useful for quilting  needle insertion point is position «0» (center needle position)  the vertical measurements correspond to the distance between the needle

and the line

 measurements are marked to the right and to the left of center needle

position

9 mm

5.5 mm (optional accessory)

Removing the Stitch Plate

⦁

raise the presser foot and needle

⦁

turn power switch to «0» (off)

⦁

press the stitch plate down at the right back corner 1 until it flips up

►

remove stitch plate

Replacing the Stitch Plate

⦁

place the stitch plate over the opening 2 and press down until it clicks into

place

Exchanging the Stitch Plate

Whenever the stitch plate is exchanged, it is imperative to adjust the settings in Security Program accordingly, see page 32.

Page 29

Sewing preparation

Thread-Guide-and-Lubricating Unit

ATTENTION!

The silicone fluid must ONLY be used for thread lubrication. Never use it to lubricate the hook system!

As a thread-guide eyelet (Fig. 1)

Use the unit without lubricator for a controlled guiding of the thread into the pretensioner, e.g. when using lively thread types.

As a thread lubricator (Fig. 2)

Using the lubricator is advisable when using e.g. threads with high function values, metallic threads, loosely twisted thread types etc. The silicone fluid improves the threads‘ gliding properties considerably and therefore helps to produce flawless stitching results.

Assembly

⦁

insert the unit into the spool-holder cover fixture and push down entirely

(Fig. 1)

⦁

insert the lubricator into the holder on the left side of the unit, taking care to

place the lubricator in such way that the openings for the thread are in line

with the thread flow or thread direction (Fig. 2)

⦁

moisten the felt, add a few drops of silicone fluid

⦁

place the thread spool onto the middle or rear spool pin as usual. Then

guide the thread through the respective eyelet of the telescopic rod and the

eyelet of the thread-guide-and-lubricating unit

⦁

hold the thread with both hands, pull it in to the slit of the felt, pulling it

down as far as it goes so that it‘ll stay in the felt during machine operation

(Fig. 3)

⦁

continue and complete threading the sewing computer as normal

⦁

take care that the felt remains moistened. It mustn‘t dry out. Apply some

drops of silicone fluid once in a while to keep it moist

During the initial threading of the sewing computer and when the radial thread release is used it is advisable to pull an extra inch of thread from the spool before the threader button is pushed (Fig. 4).

When using the Thread-Guide-and-Lubrification Unit and depending on the type of thread used it might be necessary to reduce the upper-thread tension slightly to achieve perfect stitching results.

⦁

to remove the Thread-Guide-and-Lubrification Unit, push the entire unit up

⦁

Reattach the Thread-Guide-and-Lubrification Unit. Thread the sewing

computer as usual, including the eyelet of the unit (Fig. 2).

Page 30

Sewing preparation

ATTENTION!

It is absolutely essential to use the correct foam disc under the thread spool.

Various Options of Application

 Vertical thread unwinding (with or without lubricator) from normal spool pin

or optional multiple spool holder (Fig. 5-7)

Radial Thread Guide

 Radial thread unwinding (with or without lubricator) (Fig. 8)  during the initial threading of the sewing computer and when the radial

thread release is used it is advisable to pull an extra inch of thread from the

spool before the threader button is pushed (Fig. 9)

How to use the thread guide:

It is preferable to replace the standard foam disc with the foam rotary disc (with white plastic inner part) on the rear spool pin.

Application

The extra thread guide ensures the consistent thread release, when using threads i.e. metallic, lively or evenly wound thread spools.

 place thread spool on spool pin and guide thread through thread guide.

Then run thread via middle eyelet of telescopic rod. Continue threading the

sewing computer as normal

 during the initial threading of the sewing computer and when the radial

thread release is used it is advisable to pull an extra inch of thread from the

spool before the threader button is pushed

Any of the two spool pins (see arrow markings) can be used. However, it is best to use the rear pin due to its more favorable unwinding angle. Refrain from using the pin of the winder.

In order to achieve perfect stitching results, it might be necessary to reduce the upper-thread tension slightly when using the radial thread unwinding and depending on the thread used.

Page 31

Sewing preparation

Upper thread tension

Higher upper thread tension = the upper thread is tightened, which pulls the lower thread up to the top of the fabric. Lower upper thread tension = the upper thread is loosened, which enables it to be pulled to the back of the fabric.

Basic settings are applied automatically when a stitch pattern or program is selected.

The upper thread tension is set optimally at the BERNINA factory and the sewing computer has been tested. Metrosene-/Seralon thread size 100/2 (Company Mettler, Switzerland) is used for upper and lower thread.

In case of using other types of sewing or embroidery threads, the optimal tension may vary. Therefore it may be necessary to adjust the upper thread tension according to the fabric and the desired stitch pattern.

Altering upper thread tension

⦁

touch the «Upper thread tension»-icon

►

the white bar within the scale and the number in the icon show the basic

setting

⦁

touch the «+»/«-»-icon or

⦁

turn stitch width or stitch length knob to the left or to the right or

⦁

move the slider in the Display using the Touchscreen pen or the finger

►

upper thread tension is tightened or loosened

►

the alteration of the upper thread tension is visible in the yellow-framed icon

and in the «Upper thread tension»-icon

►

basic setting remains visible (small white dot on the slider)

►

the alteration of the upper thread tension only affects the selected stitch

Saving the upper thread tension

⦁

touch the «Close»- or «Upper thread tension»-icon

►

the settings are saved and the Display closes

Back to basic settings

⦁

touch the yellow-framed icon

►

basic setting is reset

⦁

switch off the sewing computer

►

any alterations are deleted

Page 32

Lower Thread Tension

Sewing preparation

⦁

hold bobbin case 1 firmly with your left hand

⦁

with your right hand, turn the hand wheel clockwise until the setting tool can

be slid over the lug at the slider

Basic value:

 lug of the slider matches with the marking of the bobbin carrier, or  lug is shifted 1-2 points to the right, or  lug is shifted 1-2 points to the left

⦁

turn lug to the left with the setting tool

►

thread tension becomes looser

⦁

turn lug to the right with the setting tool

►

thread tension becomes tighter Change per point = 4 g.

⦁

bring hook into the position shown in the illustration by turning the

handwheel clockwise in order to be able to thread it properly

Page 33

Sewing preparation

Security Program

⦁

touch the «Needle»- or «Stitch plate»-icon

►

«Needle-/Stitch plate overview»-Display appears

Display

►

yellow flag = recommended, optimal selection

►

green flag = optimal element is selected

If an inappropriate needle/stitch plate has been selected for the selected stitch pattern, an animation will be displayed and the sewing computer cannot be started. The function remains active even when the sewing computer is turned off and on.

Selecting the needle

⦁

touch the desired «Needle»-icon

►

stitch width is limited automatically

►

this prevents the inserted special needle (double needle etc.) from hitting

the presser foot or the stitch plate = no needle breakage

►

numbers in the needle icons indicate the needle distance in mm

⦁

touch the «Standard needle»-icon

►

Standard needle is activated again

►

the stitch width limitation is deactivated

Needle Chart

Selecting the stitch plate

⦁

touch desired «Stitch plate»-icon

►

stitch width is limited automatically

►

this prevents the inserted needle from hitting the presser foot or the stitch

plate = no needle breakage

Saving

⦁

touch the «Close»-icon or «Needle»- or «Stitch plate»-icon

►

the settings are saved and the Display closes

⦁

press «Needle minder»-icon

►

«Needle index»-Display appears

Selecting needle

⦁

select attached needle and needle size

Page 34

Sewing preparation

Selecting a Presser Foot

For every selected stitch pattern the optimal presser foot is displayed in «Presser foot selection»-icon.

ATTENTION!

It is IMPORTANT to select the attached presser foot to enable the sewing computer to recognize it and to activate the respective safety settings.

Display

►

yellow flag = optional choice for selected stitch pattern

►

green flag = optimal element is selected

⦁

attach the recommended presser foot

⦁

touch the «Presser foot selection»-icon

►

the «Presser foot selection»-Display appears

⦁

touch the icon showing the attached presser foot or attach another presser

foot which is displayed in the overview and specially marked as optimal

presser foot and touch the respective icon in the «Presser foot selection»-

Display

⦁

scroll through the overview via the arrow icons below the presser foot icons

or touch «0-9»-icon and enter the number directly

►

if the needle risks hitting the presser foot, the sewing computer cannot be

started and an error message appears

►

the attached presser foot is now displayed in «Presser foot selection»-icon

Optional presser feet

⦁

touch the «Optional presser feet»-icon

►

the optional presser feet for the selected stitch pattern are displayed directly

Saving

⦁

touch the «Presser foot selection»- or the «Close»-icon

►

the settings are saved and the Display closes

Return to basic settings

⦁

touch the icon with the selected presser foot or «clr»-button

►

no presser foot is selected

Page 35

Sewing preparation

Altering presser foot pressure

⦁

touch the «Presser foot pressure»-icon

►

presser foot pressure scale is displayed

⦁

turn stitch width or stitch length knob to the left or to the right or

⦁

touch the «-»- or «+»-icon

►

presser foot pressure is increased or decreased

►

alteration of the presser foot pressure is displayed in the scale and in the

yellow-framed icon

►

basic setting remains visible (small white dot on the slider)

When sewing thick material, e.g. quilting

⦁

turn stitch width or stitch length knob to the left or

⦁

touch the «-»-icon

►

the presser foot pressure decreases to minus

►

the presser foot is slightly raised and the material can be moved more

easily

Feed dog position

Bobbin filling

Saving presser foot pressure

⦁

touch the «Close»-icon or «Presser foot pressure»-icon

►

the settings are saved and the Display closes

Resetting the basic setting

⦁

touch the yellow-framed icon

►

basic setting is reset

Reset the presser foot pressure to basic setting after finishing the task.

Feed dog position down

⦁

touch the «Feed dog»-icon

►

the feed dog is lowered

Feed dog position up

⦁

touch the yellow framed «Feed dog»-icon

►

the feed dog is raised at the next stitch

Amount of remaining thread

The remaining thread on the bobbin is displayed in a colored bar as well as in percentage.

Page 36

Alarm

⦁

touch the «Clock»-icon

Sewing preparation

Setting the time of the alarm By touching the icon 1 the input fields are activated or deactivated.

⦁

touch icon 1

⦁

turn stitch width or stitch length knob or

⦁

touch the «+»- or «-»-icon

►

the time of the alarm (hh:mm) is set

⦁

touch the text box 2

Individual alarm message

⦁

create or edit the individual alarm message

►

the alarm message appears in the text box 3 above the keyboard

⦁

confirm by touching

⦁

touch the «Clock»- or «Close»-icon 5

►

the Display closes

►

the changed clock symbol indicates that an entry has been made

Deleting an alarm message

⦁

touch the text box 3

►

the entered text is deleted completely

Corrections

⦁

touch icon 4

►

the entered text is deleted from the right to the left

Alarm Display

When the entered time is due, the alarm Display appears.

⦁

confirm by touching

►

the alarm Display closes

Page 37

Sewing preparation

Feed dog and Fabric feed

With each stitch the feed dog moves forward by one step. The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected.

With a very short stitch length the steps are very short. The fabric moves relatively slowly under the presser foot, even at full sewing speed, e.g. buttonholes and satin stitch and decorative stitches are sewn with a very short stitch length.

Let the fabric feed evenly.

ATTENTION!

Pulling, pushing or holding back the fabric can result in damages of the needle and stitch plate.

Pulling, pushing or holding back the fabric will result in uneven stitches.

Page 38

Notes

Page 39

Functions

Overview «Function»-buttons

«Start/Stop»-button

 starts and stops the sewing computer when

operating with or without foot control

 starts and stops the BSR-Function if the BSR

foot is attached and activated

 raise the presser foot slightly quick press while

sewing to pivot or move the sewing work

«Quick reverse»/«Permanent reverse sewing»button

 secures the seam beginning and end: sews in

reverse as long as the button is pressed  used to program the buttonhole length  used to program the darning length  used to determine end of stitching in straight

stitch Securing Stitch No. 5  used for securing in Quilters securing program

No. 1324

Slide speed control

 the sewing and embroidering speed is infinitely

variable with the slide

ATTENTION!

The «Automatic threader»-button mustn‘t be activated with one of these presser feet attached nos. 48, 50, 55, 85, 86, 93 and the cut'n'sew No. 80.

«Automatic threader»-button

⦁

touch button = finishes the threading process and threads the needle

Double, triple and wing needles require manual threading after the button has been pressed. Use the «Automatic needle threader»-button for needle sizes 70-120. Metallic threads, thick threads like cordonnet and difficult to work with threads should be threaded by hand.

Programmable «Pattern end-/Securing»-button

⦁

press button before or during sewing

►

single pattern is secured at the end, with the selected number of stitches programmed

⦁

press button before or during sewing of a combination

►

the active pattern of the combination is secured at the end, with the selected number of stitches programmed

⦁

the number and type of the securing stitches can be programmed in the Setup-Program

►

a stop symbol which appears during sewing indicates that the function is activated

Page 40

Functions

«Needle stop»-button

⦁

press the button

►

the needle is raised or lowered in the same

way as by sinking the heel back on the foot

control

«Automatic Securing Program»-button

⦁

press the button before sewing start = the

individual pattern/combination is secured at

the beginning with the number of programmed

stitches

⦁

keep the button pressed while sewing = the

sewing computer stops at once and sews the

number of programmed stitches

⦁

the number and type of the securing stitches

can be programmed in the Setup-Program

«Presser foot position»-button

⦁

press the button

►

the presser foot is lowered and raised a bit

again for easy positioning of the material

►

the presser foot is lowered on the fabric when

start sewing

⦁

press the button again

►

the foot is raised and the feed dog is lowered

simultaneously

«Automatic thread cutter»-button

 the upper and the lower threads are cut

automatically  2-6 securing stitches can be programmed in

the Setup-Program. These are sewn before

the thread is cut

Stitch width and Stitch length Knobs (Multifunction)

 to adjust stitch width or stitch length  to alter thread tension  to set the buttonhole slit width or the button

size  to adjust the balance  various alterations in the Setup-Program  various alterations when embroidering

«Needle position»-buttons

⦁

press the left button

►

needle moves to the left

⦁

press the right button

►

needle moves to the right

⦁

keep button pressed

►

quick change  total of 11 needle positions (5 left, 5 right,

1 center = 0)

Needle stop position up and «Quick reverse»button

If «Quick reverse»-button is pressed while sewing or after stopping (e.g. zig-zag) with programmed needle stop up, the sewing computer sews one stitch forward before it switches to sewing in reverse.

Needle stop position down and «Quick reverse»-button

If «Quick reverse»-button is pressed after stopping (e.g. zig-zag) with programmed needle stop down, the sewing computer switches to sewing in reverse immediately.

Page 41

Display

Overview Main Display

System settings 1 Home 2 Setup-Program 3 Tutorial 4 Creative Consultant/Emboidery Consultant 5 Help

6 ECO 7 Clear settings

External Functions/Views 8 Upper thread tension 9 Security needle 10 Presser foot indicator/Presser foot selection 11 Presser foot pressure 12 Security stitch plate 13 Feed dog recognition 14 Filling bobbin/Winding the lower thread 15 Time/Alarm

Menu Selection 16 Stitch selection by number 17 Practical stitches 18 Decorative stitches 19 Alphabets 20 Buttonholes 21 Quilt stitches 22 Personal program/Memory 23 History

Page 42

Display

Selection 24 Fit to screen 25 Single and combi mode 26 Stitch Designer 27 Scroll right/left

2524

Stitch Pattern Area 28 Stitch pattern selection

Stitch Pattern Display 29 Display of the stitch pattern selected 30 Information

Page 43

Functions - Display

Sewing Functions Overview

⦁

touch the «i»-icon

►

«Function»-Display appears

465

9 10

13 14 15 16

Scrolling Functions

When not all functions are shown directly, please proceed as follows:

⦁

touch the «Function»-Display using the finger or the Touchscreen pen, keep it pressed and move it up

►

additional functions appear

Functions 1 Needle stop down/up (permanent) 2 Pattern begin 3 Pattern repeat 4 Mirror Image left/right 5 Mirror Image down/up 6 Balance 7 Altering pattern length/Stitch density 8 Stitch Counter 9 Long stitch 10 Multi-Directional sewing 11 Distorting stitch patterns 12 Balance BERNINA Dual Transport 13 Permanent reverse sewing 14 Backstepping 15 Personal memory permanent 16 Reset

Needle stop down/up (permanent)

⦁

touch the icon

►

the needle symbol jumps down

►

the sewing computer stops with needle down

⦁

touch the icon again

►

the needle symbol jumps up

►

the sewing computer stops with needle up

General Functions

Information

⦁

touch the icon

►

another Display is opened

⦁

touch the icon

►

the previous Display appears

►

any alterations are accepted

Confirm selection

⦁

touch the icon

►

alteration/selection is activated or confirmed

Escape Display

⦁

touch the icon

►

the Display is closed

►

the previous Display appears

Pattern begin

►

the function appears, when the sewing computer is stopped while sewing a single pattern or a pattern combination

⦁

touch the icon

►

the selected stitch pattern or program is set to pattern begin

Pattern repeat

⦁

touch icon 1x

►

number 1 appears: the sewing computer stops at the end of an individual stitch or a stitch combination

⦁

touch icon 2-9x

►

numbers 2-9 appear: the sewing computer stops at the end of an individual stitch pattern or a stitch combination after the number of repeats selected

Mirror Image left/right

The sewing computer sews the stitch pattern mirrored, left/right referring to the sewing direction.

Mirror Image up/down

The sewing computer sews the stitch pattern mirrored up/down referring to the sewing direction.

Balance

To balance forward and reverse stitches.

Page 44

Functions - Display

Altering stitch density 3

Certain decorative stitches (e.g. No. 401) allow an alteration of the stitch density. The set stitch pattern length will not be affected.

⦁

touch the «+»-icon

►

the stitch density is reduced in 0.05 mm-steps

►

the stitch distance is increased

⦁

touch the «-»-icon

►

the stitch density is increased in 0.05 mm-steps

►

the stitch distance is decreased

►

touch the «Back»-icon 1

►

the Function Overview appears again

Altering the pattern length 4

⦁

move slider in the Display using the Touchscreen pen or the finger

►

pattern length (Standard = 100%) is infinitely variable

⦁

extend or shorten in 1%-steps using «+»/«-» or

⦁

touch the «+100%»-icon 2

►

pattern length is extended in 100%-steps Maximum length is 1000%, shortest length 10%. Some stitch patterns are limited and cannot be extended to 1000%.

Stitch Counter

⦁

when the desired length is obtained, press the «Quick

reverse»-button

►

the Display changes to «auto»

►

the selected stitch pattern is temporarily programmed

Long stitch

 the sewing computer sews every second stitch (max. stitch

length 12 mm)

 applicable for practical and decorative stitches

Exception: buttonholes, alphabets

Multi-Directional sewing

⦁

use the stitch width knob to rotate the stitch pattern or

combination in 0.5°-steps, the stitch length knob for

1°-steps or the «Direct-selection»-buttons for 45°-steps

into the desired direction

►

the sewing direction is shown in the left part of the Display

►

the start is marked with a white dot and the end with a red

cross

►

the function only appears if the selected stitch can be sewn

in multiple directions

Page 45

Functions - Display

Distorting stitch patterns

⦁

touch the icon

⦁

touch the upper «+» or «-» icon or turn the stitch width knob

to the right or to the left

►

the stitch pattern will be distorted in 0.01 mm steps to the

right or to the left

Balance BERNINA Dual Transport

Adjusting the feed of the upper fabric layer.

Permanent reverse sewing

The sewing computer sews the selected stitch pattern in reverse.

Backstepping

The last 200 needle penetrations of a stitch pattern are retraced, i.e. sewn backwards.

⦁

touch the lower «+» or «-» icon or turn the stitch length knob

to the right or to the left

►

the stitch pattern will be distorted in 0.01 mm steps forwards

or backwards

Personal memory permanent

⦁

select a stitch pattern and alter e.g. stitch length or stitch width

⦁

touch the icon

►

the altered stitch pattern is saved

Reset

⦁

touch the icon

►

any alterations of the selected stitch pattern are reset to basic setting

Page 46

Notes

Page 47

Functions - Display

Overview Functions Buttonholes

⦁

press the «Buttonhole»-button

⦁

select the buttonhole

⦁

touch the «i»-icon

Altering the buttonhole 1 Programming the buttonhole length 2 Buttonhole length direct entry 3 Stitch counter buttonhole

4 Manual buttonhole 5 Buttonhole slit width

6 Balance 7 Distorting stitch patterns

8 Backstepping 9 Personal memory permanent 10 Reset

Programming buttonhole length

►

the icon is active automatically after a buttonhole has been selected

⦁

determine the buttonhole length by pressing the «Quick reverse»-button or

⦁

program the indicated length directly in the icon below by touching the icon

►

function turns inactive after programming the length

⦁

if a new length is to be programmed, touch the icon again

Buttonhole length direct entry

Determine the bottonhole length via the stitch width or stitch length knob. Length in mm.

Stitch counter buttonhole

Having sewn the desired length of the 1st bead, then

⦁

press «Quick reverse»-button

Having sewn the desired length of the 2nd bead, then

⦁

press «Quick reverse»-button

►

Display shows «auto»

►

the buttonhole is programmed

Manual buttonhole

⦁

sew a manual buttonhole in 5 or 7 steps (depending on buttonhole type)

⦁

select every step via the arrow icons «up»/«down» or via the direct selection

Backstepping

The last 200 needle penetrations of a stitch pattern are retraced, i.e. sewn backwards.

Personal memory permanent

⦁

select a stitch pattern and alter e.g. stitch length or stitch width

⦁

touch the icon

►

the altered stitch pattern is saved

Reset

⦁

touch the icon

►

any alterations of the selected stitch pattern are reset to the original basic setting

Buttonhole slit width

⦁

set the buttonhole slit width to between 0.1 mm and

2.0 mm using the stitch width or the stitch length knob

Balance

To balance forward and reverse stitches.

Page 48

Overview Functions Alphabets

4 6

7 8

11 12313

Functions - Display

⦁

touch the «Alphabet»-button

⦁

select Alphabet

⦁

touch the «i»-icon

Altering Alphabet 1 Pattern repeat 2 Mirror Image left/right 3 Mirror Image up/down 4 Balance 5 Altering the pattern length 6 Font size in alphabets 7 Multi-Directional sewing 8 Distorting stitch patterns 9 Balance BERNINA Dual Transport 10 Permanent reverse sewing 11 Backstepping 12 Personal memory permanent 13 Reset

Pattern repeat

⦁

touch icon 1x

►

number 1 appears: the sewing computer stops at the end of an individual stitch patttern or a stitch pattern combination

⦁

touch icon 2-9x

►

numbers 2-9 appear: the sewing computer stops at the end of an individual stitch patttern or a stitch pattern combination after the number of repeats selected

Mirror Image left/right

The sewing computer sews the stitch pattern mirrored, left/right referring to the sewing direction.

Mirror Image up/down

The sewing computer sews the stitch pattern mirrored up/down referring to the sewing direction.

Balance

To balance forward and reverse stitches.

Altering the pattern length

⦁

move the slider in the Display using the Touchscreen pen or the finger

►

pattern length (Standard = 100%) is infinitely variable

⦁

extend or shorten in 1%-steps using the «+»/«-»-icons or

⦁

touch the «+100%»-icon

►

the pattern length is extended in 100%-steps Maximum length is 200%, shortest length is 10%.

Font size in alphabets

⦁

select alphabet

►

font size is 9 mm

⦁

touch the icon

►

the small «A» is activated

►

the font size is reduced

Multi-Directional sewing

⦁

use the stitch width knob to rotate the stitch pattern or combination in 0.5°-steps, the stitch length knob for 1°-steps or the «Direct-selection»-buttons for rotating in 45°-steps into the desired direction

►

the sewing direction is shown in the left part of the Display

►

the start is marked with a white dot and the end with a red cross

►

the function only appears if the selected stitch can be sewn in multiple directions

Balance BERNINA Dual Transport

Adjusting the feed of the upper fabric layer.

Permanent reverse sewing

The sewing computer sews the selected stitch pattern in reverse.

Backstepping

The last 200 needle penetrations of a stitch pattern are retraced, i.e. sewn backwards.

Personal memory permanent

⦁

select a stitch pattern and alter e.g. stitch length or stitch width

⦁

touch the icon

►

the altered stitch pattern is saved

Reset

⦁

touch the icon

►

any alterations of the selected stitch pattern are reset to basic setting

Page 49

Functions - Display

Overview Functions Combi mode

4 5

7 8

⦁

touch the «Combi mode»-icon

⦁

select stitch pattern

⦁

touch the «i»-icon

Combination mode 1 Mirror Image left/right

2 Mirror Image up/down 3 Deleting 4 Editing the whole combination 5 Editing a combination at cursor position 6 Balance 7 Altering the pattern length

8 Font size in alphabets 9 Long stitch (without alphabets) 10 Multi-Directional sewing 11 Distorting stitch patterns 12 Balance BERNINA Dual Transport 13 Permanent reverse sewing 14 Backstepping

Mirror Image left/right

The sewing computer sews the stitch pattern mirrored, left/right referring to the sewing direction.

Mirror Image up/down

The sewing computer sews the stitch pattern mirrored up/down referring to the sewing direction.

Deleting

Deletes an individual stitch.

Editing the whole combination

⦁

touch the icon

►

Display appears

Editing a combination at cursor position

⦁

touch the icon

►

Display appears

Balance

To balance forward and reverse stitches.

Altering the pattern length

⦁

move the slider in the Display using the Touchscreen pen or the finger

►

pattern length (Standard = 100%) is infinitely variable

⦁

extend or shorten in 1%-steps using «+»/«-»-icons or

⦁

touch the «+100%»-icon

►

the pattern length is extended in 100%-steps Maximum length is 1000%, shortest length 10%. Some stitch patterns are limited and cannot be extended to 1000%.

Long stitch (without alphabets)

 the sewing computer sews every second stitch

(max. stitch length 12 mm)

 applicable for practical and decorative stitches

Exception: alphabets

Multi-Directional sewing

⦁

►

the sewing direction is shown in the left part of the Display

►

the start is marked with a white dot the end with a red cross

►

the function only appears if the selected stitch can be sewn in multiple directions

Balance BERNINA Dual Transport

Adjusting the feed of the upper fabric layer.

Permanent reverse sewing

The sewing computer sews the selected stitch pattern in reverse.

Backstepping

The last 200 needle penetrations of a stitch pattern are retraced, i.e. sewn backwards.

Font size in alphabets

⦁

select Alphabet

►

font size is 9 mm

⦁

touch icon

►

small «A» is activated

►

the font size is reduced

Page 50

Functions - Display

⦁

touch the «Combi mode»-icon

⦁

select the stitch pattern

⦁

touch the «i»-icon

⦁

touch the «Cursor position»-icon

Functions 1 Combination subdivider 2 Combination subdivider

3 Securing

Combination subdivider

 every combination can be subdivided into several

parts

 only the combination section where the cursor is

located will be sewn

 to sew another section, the cursor must be placed

into this part

Combination subdivider

 each combination can be interrupted as desired  after stopping, the needle moves to the next part to

be sewn

Securing

 to program the function within a pattern combination  each individual pattern of the combination can be

secured at the start or the end

Page 51

Functions - Display

⦁

touch the «Combi mode»-icon

⦁

select the stitch pattern

⦁

touch the «i»-icon

⦁

touch the «Edit whole combination»-icon

Functions 1 Combination repeat

2 Mirror Image left/right 3 Deleting 4 Editing the whole combination 5 Multi-Directional sewing

Combination repeat

⦁

touch icon 1x

►

number 1 appears: the sewing computer stops at the end of a pattern combination

⦁

touch icon 2-9x

►

numbers 2-9 appear: the sewing computer stops at the end of a stitch combination after the number of repeats selected

Mirror Image left/right

The sewing computer sews the whole combination mirrored, left/right referring to the sewing direction.

Deleting

Deletes the whole combination.

Editing the whole combination

⦁

touch the icon

►

Display appears

Multi-Directional sewing

⦁

►

the sewing direction is shown in the left part of the Display

►

the start is marked with a white dot the end with a red cross

►

the function only appears if the selected stitch can be sewn in multiple directions

Adjusting the width in the combination

⦁

touch the «Stitch width Display»-icon 6

►

«Stitch width»-Display appears

⦁

touch the «Adjust width in combination»-icon

►

the width of all the stich patterns are adjusted to the widest stitch pattern within the combination

Adjusting the length in the combination

⦁

touch the «Stitch length Display»-icon 7

►

«Stitch length»-Display appears

⦁

touch the «Adjust Length in Combination»-icon

►

the length of all the stich patterns are adjusted to the longest stitch pattern within the combination

Page 52

1 2

5 6

7 8

9 10

Functions - Display

⦁

touch the «Combi mode»-icon

⦁

creating combinations

⦁

touch the «Editing mode»-icon

⦁

touch the «i»-icon

Functions 1 Connecting stitches/Moving single patterns in a combination 2 Moving multiple stitch patterns of a combination 3 Mirror Image left/right 4 Mirror Image up/down

5 Balance 6 Multi-Directional sewing 7 Long stitch 8 Font size in alphabets 9 Deleting 10 Editing the whole combination

Connecting stitches/Moving single patterns in a combination

Opens the Display to add connecting stitches.

Moving single stitch patterns in a combination

Single stitch patterns of combinations can be moved horizontally, vertically or diagonally.

Moving multiple stitch patterns of a combination

Multiple stitch patterns of combinations can be moved horizontally, vertically or diagonally.

Mirror Image left/right

The sewing computer sews the stitch pattern mirrored, left/right referring to the sewing direction.

Mirror Image up/down

The sewing computer sews the stitch pattern mirrored up/down referring to the sewing direction.

Balance

To balance forward and reverse stitches.

Multi-Directional sewing

⦁

►

the sewing direction is shown in the left part of the Display

►

the function only appears if the selected stitch can be sewn in multiple directions

Long stitch

 the sewing computer sews every second stitch

(max. stitch length 12 mm)

 applicable for practical and decorative stitches

Exception: alphabets

Font size in alphabets

⦁

select alphabet

►

font size is 9 mm

⦁

touch the icon

►

small «A» is activated

►

the font size is reduced

Deleting

Deletes an individual stitch.

Editing the whole combination

⦁

touch the icon

►

functions are activated

Page 53

Setup-Program

Overview «Setup»-Display

21 3

The Setup-Program enables an individual adjustment of the Display surface and the settings according to your personal requirements. After setting the sewing computer to your personal requirements, all changes made in the Setup-Program are saved, even when the sewing computer is switched off. Exceptions from this rule are outlined within the description of the function concerned in each case.

⦁

press «Setup»-button

►

«Setup-Program»-Display is opened

1 Sewing settings 2 Embroidery settings 3 Personal settings 4 Monitoring 5 Audio system 6 Sewing computer settings

5 64

Page 54

Sewing settings

Setup-Program

⦁

touch the «Sewing setting»-icon

1 Altering Upper thread tension

2 Sewing speed control 3 Securing stitches when starting to sew 4 Programming «Function»-buttons/«Function»-icon 5 Programming the foot control

Altering Upper thread tension

⦁

touch the «Thread tension»-icon

⦁

move the slider in the Display to the left/right using the Touchscreen pen or the finger or

⦁

turn the stitch width or the stitch length knob or

⦁

touch the «+»/«-»-icon

►

alters the basic setting of the upper thread tension 1 at plus or minus two basic values

►

0.0 = basic setting

Sewing speed control

⦁

touch the «Sewing speed control»-icon

⦁

move the slider in the Display to the left/right using the Touchscreen pen or the finger or

⦁

turn the stitch width or the stitch length knob or

⦁

touch the «+»/«-»-icon

►

alters the maximal sewing speed 2

►

the number in the yellow-framed icon indicates the stitches per minute, the basic value is displayed by a small white dot

Securing stitches when starting to sew

The securing stitches are sewn after the thread cutter or the threader have been used.

►

the function is active (standard)

►

before sewing the stitch pattern, 4 securing stitches are sewn first

⦁

touch gray icon

►

function is inactive = no securing stitches will be sewn

Page 55

Setup-Program

Programming «Function»-buttons/«Function»-icon

⦁

touch the «Function»-icon

1 Automatic securing program

2 Programming «Securing»-button

3 Hover position of the presser foot 4 Automatic thread cutter and securing stitches 5 Programming «Quick reverse»-button

6 Presser foot position with needle stop down

⦁

select desired icon

Automatic securing program

⦁

touch the «Securing program»-icon

The number and type of the securing stitches of the external «Pattern end/ Securing»-button can be programmed.

►

standard = four securing stitches sew in place

⦁

select function 7 to secure with small stitches sewn in a forward direction

⦁

via «+»/«-»-icons three to six securing stitches can be programmed

Automatic thread cutter

►

if function 8 is activated, the upper and lower thread are automatically cut

after sewing the securing stitches

Raising the presser foot

►

if function 9 is activated the presser foot is raised after securing

►

if function is not activated, the presser foot remains down

Programming «Securing»-button

⦁

touch the «Securing Button»-icon

The number and type of the securing stitches can be programmed using the «Securing»-button.

►

standard = four securing stitches in the same place

⦁

select function 10 for small securing stitches sewn in a forward direction

⦁

via «+»/«-»-icons two to six securing stitches can be programmed

Hover position of the presser foot

⦁

touch the «Hover position»-icon

⦁

turn the stitch width or stitch length knob or

⦁

touch the «+»/«-»-icon

⦁

the margin of raising can be adjusted from 0 mm to 7 mm

►

Standard = 2 mm

►

the set value = the distance between material and presser foot, is displayed in the icon 11

Back to basic settings

⦁

touch the yellow-framed icon

►

basic setting is restored

Page 56

12 13 14

Setup-Program

Automatic thread cutter and securing stitches

⦁

touch «Thread cutter»-icon

The number and type of the securing stitches before the thread is cut can be programmed.

►

standard = no securing stitches programmed

⦁

touch icon 12

►

icon 13 is activated

►

four securing stitches are sewn at the place

⦁

select icon 14 to secure with small stitches sewn in a forward direction

⦁

via «+»/«-»-icons two to six securing stitches can be programmed

When sewing with BSR, no securing stitches are sewn.

Programming «Quick reverse»-button

⦁

press «Quick reverse»-icon

►

with activated icon 15 the sewing computer sews in continuous reverse when pressing «Quick reverse»-button

►

with activated icon 16 the sewing computer sews backwards stitch-by-stitch when pressing «Quick reverse»-button

15 16

17 18 19

Presser foot position with needle stop down

⦁

touch the «Presser foot position»-icon

►

with activated icon 17, the presser foot remains down when the sewing computer stops

►

with activated icon 18, the presser foot is raised enough to pivot the fabric (hover position)

►

with activated icon 19, the presser foot is raised into its highest position

Page 57

Setup-Program

5 6

Programming the foot control

⦁

touch the «Foot control»-icon

Standard = icon 1 is activated.

⦁

back heel kick in the foot control

►

the needle is raised or lowered

⦁

touch icon 2

Programming securing stitches

►

when the icon 3 is activated, the number and type of securing stitches can

be programmed via back-heel-kick on the foot control

►

Standard = four securing stitches at the place

⦁

touch icon 4 for securing stitches forward

⦁

using the «+»/«-»-icons two up to six securing stitches can be programmed

Automatic thread cutter

►

with icon 5 activated, the upper and the lower thread are cut automatically by back heel kick

►

is the icon deactivated, the threads cannot be cut

Raising the presser foot

►

with the icon 6 activated, the presser foot is raised by back heel kicking

►

is the icon deactivated, the presser foot remains down

Page 58

Embroidery settings

1 3

4 6

7 8 9

Embroidery settings

Setup-Program

⦁

touch the «Embroidery settings»-icon

1 Altering Upper thread tension 2 Altering Embroidery speed control 3 Centering embroidery motifs 4 Calibrating the hoop 5 Fabric Thickness 6 Function thread removal on/off 7 Activating or deactiving securing stitches 8 Automatic cut 9 Changing the measuring unit

The settings for the upper thread tension 1 and embroidery speed 2 can be adjusted in the same way like the settings for sewing (see page 53).

⦁

touch the desired icon

Centering or opening embroidery motifs in the original position

When the embroidery motif is openend on the machine, it is always centered to the embroidery hoop. If you want the embroidery motif to be opened in its original position (defined by the BERNINA embroidery software), the function «Center the embroidery motif» must be activated.

⦁

touch the icon «Center the embroidery motif»

⦁

press the switch in the right section

►

a previously moved embroidery motif which has been saved in the new position is opened in the saved position after selecting

⦁

press the switch in the right section again

►

the embroidery motif is centered to the embroidery hoop

Calibrating the embroidery hoop

The calibration of the embroidery hoop is the coordination of the needle to the center of the embroidery hoop.

Prerequisite: The embroidery module is connected and the embroidery hoop with the appropriate embroidery template is attached

⦁

touch the icon «Setup Program»

⦁

touch the icon «Embroidery settings»

⦁

touch the icon «Calibrate the hoop»

►

the machine recognizes the embroidery hoop automatically

⦁

touch the icon «Delete» (1) to delete the present calibration

⦁

center the needle via the arrow icons on the display

Page 59

Setup-Program

Fabric Thickness

⦁

touch the «Fabric thickness»-icon

⦁

if the fabric 7 is ticker than 4 mm, e.g. toweling, select 7.5 mm-icon or 10 mm-icon

►

this ensures that the embroidery hoop is only moved when the needle is no longer in the material

►

when the embroidery computer is switched off and then restarted again, the setting is 4 mm

Function thread removal on/off

To bring up the thread end after cutting and to pull it out of the fabric, the function must be activated. As for embroidery motifs with long stitches it is recommended to deactivate the function thread removal.

⦁

touch the icon «Thread removal»

⦁

touch the switch using the touchscreen pen/finger to activate the function thread removal

⦁

touch the switch using the touchscreen pen/finger again to deactivate the function thread removal

Programming the securing stitches

Embroidery motifs are programmed either with or without securing stitches. The machine recognizes when no securing stitches are programmed and adds some. If securing stitches are not wanted, they can be deactivated.

⦁

touch the icon «Setup Program»

⦁

touch the icon «Embroidery settings»

⦁

touch the icon «Securing stitches on/off»

⦁

press the switch in the upper right section to deactivate the securing stitches at the start

►

if the embroidery motif has programmed securing stitches, they will be embroidered

►

if the embroidery motif doesn't have any programmed securing stitches, none are embroidered

⦁

press the switch again to activate the securing stitches at the start

►

if the embroidery motif has programmed securing stitches, they will be embroidered

►

if the embroidery motif doesn't have any programmed securing stitches, the securing stitches are added and will be embroidered

⦁

press the switch in the lower right section to deactivate the securing stitches at the end

►

if the embroidery motif has programmed securing stitches, they will be embroidered

►

if the embroidery motif doesn't have any programmed securing stitches, none are embroidered

⦁

press the switch again to activate the securing stitches at the end

►

if the embroidery motif has programmed securing stitches, they will be embroidered

►

if the embroidery motif doesn't have any programmed securing stitches, the securing stitches are added and will be embroidered

Page 60

Setup-Program

Adjusting the thread cut

The settings for the thread cut can be customized. Deactivate the thread cut after a color change 8 or adjust the length of the connecting stitch 10. The machine does the cutting of the connecting threads at the determined length for you. Please adjust the length first from where the connecting stitches are to be cut.

The length of the connecting thread can be adjusted between 1 mm and 15 mm, the default setting is 6 mm. This means that all connecting stitches longer than 6 mm are cut automatically. If the value is reduced to 1 mm, more thread cuts are carried out, it takes longer to embroider and more loose thread ends can be seen on the wrong side of the fabric, especially when the function ‘Threadaway’ is activated too. On the right side of the fabric there will be practically none or merely very short connecting stitches which results in a wonderful stitch formation. Reducing the length of the thread cut to 1 mm is particularly of advantage when embroidering texts where usually many short connecting threads occur. As for other embroidery motifs (specifically when both sides of the embroidery motifs are visible) it may be reasonable to not reduce the length of the thread cut so much so that there won’t be too many loose thread ends on the wrong side of the fabric. These loose ends get sewn over and can hardly be removed afterwards. Always adjust the length of the connecting stitches first. Then select the embroidery motif.

⦁

touch the «Thread cut»-icon

⦁

touch icon 8

►

when changing the thread color the automatic cut of the thread is activated

or deactivated

⦁

touch icon 9

⦁

touch the switch in the middle section of the display so that the machine will stop after about 7 stitches and the remaining thread can be cut manually

►

touch the icons «-» or «+» 11 to adjust the length from where the connecting stitches are cut

1011

Changing the measuring unit

The measuring unit in the embroidery mode can be changed from mm to inch. The standard setting is in mm.

⦁

touch the icon «Change measuring unit»

►

touch the icon «Inch» 1 to change the measuring unit in the embroidery mode to inch

►

touch the icon «mm» 2 to change the measuring unit in the embroidery

mode to mm

Page 61

Setup-Program

Personal settings

⦁

select «Personal setting»-icon

⦁

select the desired Display and wallpaper color

⦁

touch the «Text»-icon 1

4 765

Monitoring

Welcome text

⦁

create or change Welcome Text 2

Space bar is at the bottom of the letter keys.

►

Welcome text appears in the text icon 2 above the letter keys

⦁

touch to confirm

Deleting Welcome text

⦁

touch the «Text»-icon 2

►

all entered text is deleted

Corrections

⦁

touch icon 3

►

the entered text is deleted from right to left

4 «ABC» upper case characters (standard) 5 «abc» lower case characters (standard) 6 «1,2,3» numbers and mathematical characters 7 «@&!...» special characters

⦁

touch the «Monitoring»-icon

The following monitoring functions can be activated or deactivated:

1 Upper thread indicator 2 Lower thread indicator 3 Optimal interlocking of upper and lower thread

Upper-/Lower thread indicator/Thread knots

►

open eye = function active

⦁

touch gray icon

►

closed eye = function inactive The sound type for the monitoring functions is set in the audio settings of the functions.

Page 62

Altering the acoustic signals

Sewing computer settings

4 5

Setup-Program

Selecting Stitch Pattern/Function/BSR

⦁

touch the «Acoustic signal»-icon

By touching 1 the signals are activated or deactivated.

Stitch patterns and function selection 2 can be confirmed acoustically.

⦁

select the desired sound for the stitch patterns/functions by touching the

sound icon 1-4

⦁

activate or deactivate the sound for quilting with BSR by touching the

«Loudspeaker»-icon 3

⦁

touch the «Loudspeaker»-icon

►

the sounds are deactivated for the respective category

⦁

touch the «Sewing computer settings»-icon

1 Language selection 2 Display settings 3 Calibrating the Display 4 Basic settings 5 Cleaning/Update 6 Information

Language selection

⦁

touch the «Language selection»-icon

⦁

select the desired language

Page 63

Setup-Program

Display settings

⦁

touch the «Display setting»-icon

Brightness

⦁

move the slider 1 in the upper part of the Display to the left/right using the

Touchscreen pen or the finger or

⦁

turn the stitch width knob or

⦁

touch the «+»/«-»-icon

►

the brightness of the Display changes

►

the basic setting is displayed by a small white dot

►

alterations are visible in the yellow-framed icon

Sewing light

►

when icon 2 is active, the sewing light is on

⦁

touch gray icon

►

the sewing light is turned off

Brightness sewing light

⦁

move the slider 3 in the Display to the left/right using the Touchscreen pen

or the finger or

⦁

turn the stitch length knob or

⦁

touch the «+»/«-»-icon

►

the brightness of the sewing light changes

►

the basic setting is displayed by a small white dot

►

alterations are visible in the yellow-framed icon

The Display calibration can be opened as follows:

⦁

turn off the sewing-/embroidery computer

⦁

touch the two needle positioning buttons on the front panel and keep them pressed

⦁

turn on the sewing-/embroidery computer and release the buttons as soon as the Display appears

Display Calibration

⦁

touch «Display calibration»-icon

⦁

touch the center of the cross using the Touchscreen pen

►

the cross moves to the next position

⦁

repeat this until all three positions shown are calibrated

►

the Display closes

►

the calibration is saved

Page 64

Setup-Program

Basic setting

⦁

touch the «Basic settings»-icon

Back to basic setting

Choose from following options:

1 Reset Sewing 2 Reset Embroidery 3 Reset All

⦁

touch the icon, whose settings should be reset to basic setting

⦁

having touched Reset Sewing, also deletes the data in the personal

program

⦁

touch to confirm

►

having touched Reset All, the sewing computer must be restarted

Delete user data

Choose from following options:

4 Sewing «Personal program» 5 Embroidery «My Designs» 6 Embroidery «USB stick» (the USB stick must be inserted in the sewing

computer)

⦁

touch the icon, whose data should be deleted

⦁

touch to confirm

►

the data is deleted

Exceptions:

Thread tension, brilliance, brightness, display color and speed need to be reset to basic state knowingly according to the corresponding function.

Page 65

Setup-Program

Cleaning/Update

1 3

⦁

touch the «Cleaning/Update»-icon

1 Calibrating Buttonhole foot No. 3A 2 Updating the sewing-/embroidery computer 3 Cleaning the thread clamp/Thread catcher 4 Lubricating sewing-/embroidery computer 5 Packing position 6 Setting the clock

64 5

Calibrating Buttonhole foot No. 3A

⦁

touch the «Calibration»-icon

⦁

attach Buttonhole foot No. 3A

⦁

press «Start/Stop»-button

►

the Buttonhole foot No. 3A moves forward and backwards

►

the Buttonhole foot No. 3A is calibrated and the sewing computer indicates

whether the calibration has been successful The Buttonhole foot No. 3A is calibrated to this sewing computer and should only be used on this sewing computer.

Updating the sewing-/embroidery computer

ATTENTION!

Do not remove the BERNINA USB stick until there is a message which indicates the end of the update.

⦁

insert BERNINA USB stick with the new software version

⦁

touch the «Update»-icon

It is recommended to save the data and the settings of the sewing computer before the update is carried out.

⦁

touch icon 1

►

the data of the sewing computer is saved on the USB Stick

⦁

touch the «Update»-icon 2 to start the procedure

It is then checked if:

►

a BERNINA USB stick is inserted

►

there is enough free space available

►

the correct software version is on the stick

►

the data and settings are accepted After the successful update a message appears and sewing-/embroidery computer is ready for use.

►

if the update cannot be started or if there are problems during the update

process, an error message appears If the data and the settings aren't on the sewing computer anymore after the update:

⦁

touch icon 3

►

the data on the stick are saved on the sewing computer

Page 66

Setup-Program

Cleaning the thread clamp/Thread catcher

⦁

touch the «Cleaning»-icon

Cleaning the thread clamp

⦁

touch icon 1

⦁

clean the thread clamp according to the instructions

Cleaning the thread catcher

⦁

touch icon 2

⦁

clean the thread catcher according to the instructions

Page 67

Setup-Program

Lubricating the machine

⦁

touch the icon «Lubricating the machine»

⦁

lubricate the machine according to the instructions on the display

Packing position

Do not move the embroidery arm of the embroidery module by hand. Follow the on-screen instructions to fit the embroidery module back into its original packaging.

⦁

touch the «Packing position»-icon

1 2 3

4 5

Setting the clock

⦁

touch the «Clock»-icon

⦁

turn the stitch width knob or

⦁

touch the «+»/«-»-icon below the hour Display

►

the hours 1 are set

⦁

turn the stitch length knob or

⦁

touch the «+»/«-»-icon below the minute Display

►

the minutes 2 are set

Standard = hours are displayed on the scale of 0-24.

⦁

touch icon 3

►

hours are displayed on the scale of 0-12

⦁

touch icon 4

►

am = the displayed hours 0-12 ante meridiem

⦁

touch icon 5

►

pm = the displayed hours 0-12 post meridiem

Page 68

Information

1 2 3

4 5

Setup-Program

Information

⦁

touch the «Information»-icon

1 Version 2 Dealer details 3 Service data 4 ID Number 5 Upgrade

Version

⦁

touch the «Version»-icon

►

the present version of the sewing computer and the attached embroidery

module are visible

►

the total number of stitches and the number of stitches sewn since the last

servicing by the dealer are displayed

Dealer details

⦁

touch the «Dealer details»-icon

⦁

touch respective icon Following details of the BERNINA-dealer can be registered:

⦁

store name

⦁

address

⦁

telephone number

⦁

website or e-mail address

Service data

⦁

touch «Service data»-icon

The service data of the present condition of the sewing-/embroidery computer can be saved on a USB stick and sent to the BERNINA-dealer:

⦁

insert USB stick to sewing-/embroidery computer

⦁

touch the «LOG»-icon

►

data is saved on the USB stick

⦁

remove USB stick

Page 69

Setup-Program

UPGRADE

ID Number

⦁

the ID number of the machine is displayed

⦁

touch the icon «ID Number»

►

the machinen ID number appears

UPGRADE

⦁

the upgrade is fee-based and has to be activated via an activation key

⦁

touch the icon «UPGRADE»

►

enabled means that the update has been successful

Page 70

Tutorial

Overview Tutorial

Tuto ria l

The tutorial provides information and explanations about the different areas of sewing.

⦁

touch the «Tutorial»-button

►

«Tutorial»-Display appears

1 3

11 12

2 Sewing techniques 3 BSR 4 Embroidery

1 Threading

5 Embroidery Techniques 6 Presser foot 7 Buttonholes 8 Quilting 9 Needle 10 Miscellaneous 11 Free Hand System (FHS) 12 Trouble Shooting

⦁

select desired topic, e.g. presser foot

►

topic overview about the presser foot appears

⦁

select desired topic, e.g. changing the presser foot

►

information on the desired topic is shown

⦁

scroll through the topics using the knobs or the finger

⦁

touch «Next»

►

the next page appears

⦁

touch «Back»

►

the previous page appears

⦁

touch «Close»-icon

►

the «Tutorial»-Display closes

►

the previous Display appears

Page 71

Creative Consultant

Overview Creative Consultant

The creative consultant provides information and help with various sewing techniques. After selecting the fabric and the desired sewing technique suggestions for suitable needles, presser feet etc. are displayed.

►

presser foot pressure and upper thread tension are set automatically

⦁

touch the «Creative-/Embroidery Consultant»-button

►

«Creative Consultant»-Display appears

1 Light weight woven 2 Medium weight woven 3 Heavy weight woven 4 Denim 5 Light weight knit 6 Medium weight knit 7 Heavy weight knit 8 Fur 9 Toweling 10 Fabric with a pile 11 Leather and Vinyl 12 Tulle and Laces

Overview Sewing techniques/Recommendations

⦁

touch icon of the desired material, e.g. light weight woven

1 Seams

8 9

2 Overcasting 3 Blind hem 4 Buttonhole 5 Zipper 6 Decorative stitching 7 Machine quilting 8 Free-motion stitching 9 Appliqué

⦁

select the desired sewing technique, e.g. buttonhole If the desired sewing technique is not in the list, choose a similar sewing technique.

►

recommendations for the selected material and the desired sewing

technique are displayed

⦁

touch to confirm

►

the Display with the programmed stitch patterns appears

Leaving the Creative consultant

⦁

touch

Page 72

Help Program

The Help Program provides information about individual stitch patterns and function icons in the Display.

⦁

touch the «Help Program»-button

⦁

select the desired stitch pattern or the desired function

Stitch patterns

The Display shows the following information:

►

stitch pattern name

►

suitable materials

►

recommendation

Functions

The Display shows the following information:

►

function name

►

function explanation

►

recommendation

Leaving the Help Program

⦁

touch the «Close»-icon

►

the Help program is closed

►

the previous Display appears

Page 73

Balance

Practical and decorative stitches, alphabets

The sewing computer is tested and optimally set before it leaves the BERNINA factory. Different fabrics, threads and stabilizers can affect programmed stitches so that they are not sewn out properly. These effects can be corrected with the electronic Balance so that the stitch formation can be adjusted where necessary to suit the material.

⦁

touch the «i»-icon

⦁

touch the «Balance»-icon

Practical and decorative stitches

►

in the left part of the Display the stitch pattern is shown as it is set originally (programmed)

►

in the right part of the Display any alterations are directly visible

Corrections

The stitch sewn on the fabric (e.g. the Honeycomb stitch) opens up and it does not look correct:

⦁

adjust the stitch pattern length via the stitch length knob or «+»/«-»-icons, until the stitch in the right part of the Display is identical with the stitch on the fabric

►

the alteration is shown with a number in the yellow-framed icon

⦁

touch the «Close»- or «i»-icon

►

alterations are saved

►

the previous Display appears

Sideways-motion patterns

►

in the left part of the Display the stitch pattern is shown as it is originally programmed

►

in the right part of the Display any alterations are directly visible

Page 74

BERNINA Dual Transport

Balance

The stitch sewn on the fabric e.g. stitch pattern No. 212 is vertically and horizontally distorted.

Vertical corrections

⦁

adjust the stitch pattern length via the stitch length knob or «+»/«-»-icons, until the stitch in the right part of the Display is identical with the stitch on the fabric

Horizontal corrections

⦁

adjust the stitch pattern width via the stitch width knob or «+»/«-»-icons, until the stitch in the right part of the Display is identical with the stitch on the fabric

Back to basic settings

⦁

touch the «i»-icon

⦁

touch the yellow-framed «Balance»-icon

⦁

touch the yellow-framed icon

►

basic setting is reset

⦁

touch the «i»-icon

⦁

touch the «Balance Dual Transport»-icon

Balance BERNINA Dual Transport

The top fabric layer is fed too little (the bottom layer extends past the cut edge) = it becomes longer in relation to the bottom fabric layer:

⦁

turn the stitch width knob clockwise or

⦁

touch the «+»-icon or

⦁

move the slider in the Display up using the finger or the Touchscreen pen

►

the feed of the top fabric layer is increased and the relocation is balanced The top fabric layer is fed too strongly = the bottom layer is shorter than the cut edge:

⦁

turn the stitch width knob counterclockwise or

⦁

touch the «-»-icon or

⦁

move the slider in the Display down using the finger or the Touchscreen

pen

►

the feed of the top fabric layer is decreased and the relocation is balanced

Back to basic setting

⦁

touch the yellow-framed icon

►

returns to basic setting

Page 75

eco

eco description

When the work is interrupted for longer periods, the sewing-/embroidery computer can be put into energy-saving mode.

Activating eco

⦁

touch the «eco»-button

►

the Display gets dark

►

power consumption is reduced and the sewing light turns off

Deactivating eco

⦁

touch the «eco»-button

►

the sewing-/embroidery computer is ready for use

The energy-saving mode also acts as a child safety feature. The Display is inactive and the sewing-/embroidery computer cannot be started.

Page 76

Notes

Page 77

Practical stitches

Overview Practical stitches

⦁

touch the «Practical stitch»-button

►

the practical stitches are visible in the Display

⦁

further practical stitches are visible by scrolling

Straight stitch

For non-elastic materials; all straight stitch work, such as seams, topstitching, sewing zippers

Zig-zag

Zig-zag work such as overcasting edges, attaching elastic and lace

Vari overlock

For fine jerseys; stretch overlock seams, hems and stretch seams

Running stitch

Most types of fabric; mending, patching, reinforcing seams, etc.

Securing Program

For all materials; secures the beginning and end of seams by straight stitching

Blind stitch

For most types of materials; Blind hems; shell edging effect on soft jerseys and fine material; decorative seams

Double overlock

For any knit materials; overlock seam = sewing and finishing in one step

Super stretch stitch

For highly elastic fabrics; highly elastic open seam for all types of clothing

Gathering stitch

Most types of fabric; gathering with shirring elastic. Butted seams = butting two pressed edges and sewing together, decorative stitches

Stretch overlock

For medium weight knits, toweling and firm woven; overlock seams, flat joining seams

Triple straight stitch

Reinforced seams in heavy fabrics, visible seams and topstitching

Triple Zig-zag

Reinforced seams in heavy fabrics; visible hems and seams

Honeycomb stitch

For all types of jersey and smooth materials; visible seams in lingerie, clothing, linen, mending etc.

Jersey stitch

For jersey materials; visible hems, visible seams in lingerie, sweaters, mending jersey

Universal stitch

For firm fabrics such as felt and leather; flat joining seams, visible seams, attaching elastic, decorative seams

Sewn-out Zig-zag

Edge finishing and reinforcing, attaching elastic, decorative seam

Page 78

Practical stitches

Lycra stitch

All two-way stretch fabrics; flat joining seams and hems, reinforced seaming on underwear

Stretch stitch

For highly elastic fabrics; open seam for sportswear

Reinforced overlock

For medium-weight knitware and toweling; overlock seams, flat joining seams

Knit overlock

For knit material, hand- and machine made items; overlock seam = sewing and finishing in one step

Basting stitch

Basting seams, hems, etc. temporarily

Blindstitch narrow

For blind hems in fine materials

Triple Straight stitch with long stitch

Reinforced seams in heavy fabrics, visible hems and seams

Single Straight stitch

As a connecting stitch between two individual decorative stitch patterns in a combination

Three Single Straight stitches

As a connecting stitch between two individual decorative stitch patterns in a combination

Darning stitch

Use for darning in conjunction with the «Permanent Reverse» function

Simple darning program

Automatic darning of fine to medium weight materials

Reinforced darning program

Automatic darning of firm materials

Bartack Program

Reinforcing pocket openings, sewing belt loops etc.

Bartack Program

Reinforcing pocket openings, sewing on belt loops, securing zippers and seam ends

Large Fly stitch

For medium weight to thick materials; reinforcing pocket openings, zippers and slits

Finished edge overlock

For sewing a seam and reinforcing in one step with medium weight knits

Overlock

For medium weight knits

Reinforced overlock

For sewing a seam and reinforcing in once step with medium weight knits

Chainstitch

Decorative reinforcement stitch for most woven fabrics

Cover stitch effect

For decorative seams and hems on firm knitted and woven fabrics

Small fly stitch

For fine to medium weight fabrics; reinforcing pocket openings, zippers and slits

Cover stitch effect

For decorative seams and hems on firm knitted and woven fabrics

Page 79

Practical stitches

Selecting stitch pattern

Direct-Option 1

⦁

select the desired main category 1-5

1 Practical stitches

2 Decorative stitches

3 Alphabets 4 Buttonholes

5 Quilt stitches

6 Personal program/Memory 7 History

►

the available stitch patterns are visible in the Display area 8

⦁

select desired stitch pattern

⦁

further stitch patterns are visible by scrolling 9

Direct-Option 2

⦁

select the desired main category 1-5

⦁

touch icon 10

►

the stitch menu expands

►

the number of the visible stitches is much bigger

►

all the other stitch patterns become visible by touching the scroll icons

►

the categories, e.g. of decorative stitches, are visible directly

⦁

touch the icon 10 again

►

the Display view is reset

By stitch number

⦁

touch the «0-9»-icon

►

numbers for entering are visible in the Display area 13

⦁

1211

1415

enter stitch number

►

the entered stitch number appears in the window 11

⦁

touch icon 12

►

last digit is deleted

⦁

touch icon 11

►

complete number is deleted

⦁

touch icon 14 to confirm

Cancelling

⦁

touch the «0-9»-icon or

⦁

touch icon 15

►

the previous Display appears

An invalid stitch number will be indicated in icon 11 with 3 question marks.

Page 80

Customizing stitch patterns individually

A stitch pattern can be individually altered according to the fabric and the application. The adjustments described here are applicable for all practical and many decorative stitches.

The personal memory is unlimited; it can hold as many stitch alterations as needed:

Temporary Altered Stitch Memory

Any altered stitch width and stitch length is automatically saved.

Practical Stitches

 Stitch length  Stitch width  Needle position  Pattern extend  Mirror Images  Long stitch function  Thread tension  Balance  Pattern repeat 1-9x

Example:

 sew with an altered stitch (e.g. zig-zag)  select and sew another stitch, e.g. straight stitch  when selecting the individually altered zig-zag again, your alterations are

still active

Return to basic settings

Individual stitch patterns can be reverted to basic settings manually.

⦁

select the stitch width/stitch length Display and touch the yellow-framed

icon in the respective Display or

⦁

touch the «-»/«+»-icon or

⦁

move the slider in the Display using the Touchscreen pen or the finger or

⦁

press «clr»-button

►

any altered values of the active stitch return to basic setting

⦁

switch off the sewing computer

►

any alterations of all stitches are deleted

Page 81

Practical stitches

Personal memory permanent

The basic settings programmed by BERNINA can be altered and saved and remain active even when the sewing computer is switched off.

Altering basic settings

⦁

select stitch pattern, e.g. zig-zag

⦁

alter stitch width and stitch length via the knobs

Saving alterations

⦁

touch the «i»-icon

⦁

touch the «Save»-icon

⦁

touch the «Close»- or «i»-icon

►

the alterations are saved

Return to basic settings

⦁

touch the «i»-icon

⦁

touch the «Reset»-icon

⦁

touch the «Close»- or «i»-icon

►

the basic setting is reset

Page 82

Altering stitch width and stitch length

Practical stitches

⦁

turn the knobs or

⦁

touch stitch width or stitch length Display

⦁

touch the «-»/«+»-icon in the respective Display or

⦁

move the slider in the Display using the Touchscreen pen or the finger Can be altered while sewing.

When sewing practical or quilting stitches the actual stitch length 1 is displayed.

With other stitch patterns, including alphabets, the overall length of a stitch pattern 2 is displayed. The actual stitch length 3 is only visible when the stitch length Display is opened.

Page 83

Practical stitches

Application Examples of Practical Stitches

Straight stitch

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C/1D

Straight Stitch No. 1

After turning on the sewing computer the straight stitch will appear.

►

the needle is up

Application

Suitable for all fabrics.

Adjust the stitch length to suit the fabric

E. g. use a longer stitch length (approximately 3-4 mm) with denim, a shorter length with fine fabirc (approx. 2-2.5 mm).

Adjust the stitch length to suit the thread

E. g. use a longer stitch length when using cordonnet thread for topstitching (approx. 3-5 mm).

Activate needle stop down

This prevents the fabric from shifting when you adjust or pivot the sewing project.

Triple Straight Stitch

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C/1D

Triple straight stitch No. 6

Open seam

Durable seam for firm or dense materials such as denim and corduroy.

For firm or densely woven materials

A Jeans needle and Jeans foot No. 8 will help when sewing denim or canvas.

Decorative top stitch

Lengthen stitch and use the triple straight stitch for decorative topstitching.

Page 84

Triple Zig-zag

Practical stitches

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C/1D

Triple Zig-zag No. 7

In firm materials, particularly for denim, deckchair covers, awnings.

Seams on often washed items. Finish raw edges first. Use Jeans needle for very firm materials.

Page 85

Zipper

Practical stitches

Zipper foot No. 4D

Straight stitch No. 1

Preparation

⦁

close seam to the zipper beginning

⦁

sew securing stitches

⦁

baste seam closed and clean

⦁

finish the seam allowance

⦁

iron the seam

⦁

open the zipper

⦁

baste the zipper: baste or pin zipper in place so that fabric folded edges

meet over the center of the zipper

Sewing in the zipper

⦁

open zipper a little

⦁

move needle position to the right

⦁

start sewing from top left

⦁

position the foot so the needle stitches along the edge of the zipper coils

⦁

stop in front of the pull (needle position down)

⦁

raise the presser foot

⦁

close the zipper again

⦁

continue to sew, stop in front of the base of the zipper, needle position

down

⦁

raise the presser foot

⦁

turn the sewing project

⦁

sew across the seam, stop with needle position down

⦁

raise the presser foot

⦁

turn sewing project again

⦁

sew the second side from bottom to top

Variation: Sew both sides of zipper from bottom to top

Suitable for all fabrics with nap or grain (e.g. velvet).

⦁

prepare zipper as described above

⦁

start sewing in the center of the seam at the end of the zipper, needle

position on the right

⦁

sew diagonal along the edge of the zipper coils

⦁

first side 1 sew from bottom to top

⦁

move needle position to the left

⦁

second side 2 sew in the same way from bottom to top

Sew around the zipper pull

 sew up to about 5 cm away from the zipper pull  stop with the needle down, raise the presser foot, open the

zipper, finsih sewing (use Free Hand System)

Starting to sew

 hold thread firmly when starting to sew = pull fabric slightly to the

back (fewer stitches) or

 sew about 1-2 cm reverse first, and continue to sew as usual

Zipper or fabric is thick or densely woven

For even stitch formation use a 90-100 needle.

Page 86

Manual darning

Practical stitches

Darning foot No. 9 (optional accessory)

Straight stitch No. 1

Holes or worn areas

«Replacing» threads along the lengthside and crosswise in every material.

Preparation

⦁

lower the feed dog

⦁

attach the Slide-on table

⦁

hoop the fabric into the round embroidery hoop (optional accessory)

►

the darning area stays evenly taut and cannot be distorted

Sewing

 work from the left to the right, guide the fabric evenly without using

pressure

 move in curves when changing direction on top and on bottom. Avoid

points as this can cause holes and thread breakage

 work the rows in irregular lengths. The thread is better spread over the

fabric

1 Sew the first rows to cover the hole

⦁

first rows just beyond the worn area and not too close together

⦁

work the rows in irregular lengths

⦁

turn work by a quarter turn -90

1 2

2 Sew over the first rows

⦁

first rows not too close

⦁

turn fabric by half turn -180°

3 Finish darning the hole

⦁

sew another loose row

Poor stitch formation

 if the thread is lying on top, slow down the fabric movement  if there are knots on the wrong side of the fabric, move the fabric

more quickly

Thread breaks

Guide the fabric more consistently.

Page 87

Practical stitches

Automatic Darning

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Buttonhole foot No. 3A

Simple darning program No. 22

Quick darning of holes or worn areas

Replaces threads along the lengthwise grain in all materials.

Preparation

⦁

hoop light weight materials in the round embroidery hoop (optional

accessory)

►

the darning area stays evenly taut and cannot be distorted

Darning with Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Start sewing top left.

⦁

sew first row

⦁

stop the sewing computer

⦁

press «Quick reverse»-button

►

the length is programmed

⦁

finish sewing the darning program

►

the sewing computer stops automatically

⦁

press «clr»-button

►

the programmed settings are cleared

Darning with the buttonhole foot No. 3A

 for darning worn and damaged areas  darning length max. 3 cm  same procedure as with Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Reinforcement

Use fine material or (adhesive) interlining as a backing.

If the darning becomes distorted

Correct with the Balance function (more about Balance-Function see page 72).

Page 88

Reinforced darning, automatic

Practical stitches

Buttonhole foot No. 3A

Reinforced darning program No. 23

Quick darning of holes or worn areas

Replaces threads along the lengthwise grain in all materials.

Preparation

⦁

hoop light weight materials in the round embroidery hoop (optional

accessory)

►

the darning area stays evenly taut and cannot be distorted

Darning with the Buttonhole foot No. 3A

Start sewing top left.

⦁

sew first row

⦁

stop sewing computer

⦁

press «Quick reverse»-button

►

the length is programmed

⦁

finish sewing the darning program

►

the sewing computer stops automatically

⦁

press «clr»-button

►

the programmed settings are cleared

Reinforced Darning program

If the darning does not cover the whole worn or damaged area

Reposition the work under the foot to continue covering the worn or damaged area. Begin sewing; the program will repeat as often as desired (the length is saved).

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Darning program No. 34

The Darning program No. 34 is particularly useful for mending heavy weight or durable garments, such as jeans and overalls.

Page 89

Practical stitches

Finishing Edges

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Zig-zag No. 2

 for all fabrics  for finishing raw edges  elastic seams  decorative sewing

Finishing edges

⦁

guide edge of fabric into the center of the presser foot

⦁

do not select too wide a stitch

⦁

do not select too long a stitch

⦁

needle goes into fabric on one side and over the edge into the air on the

other side  the edge of the fabric should lie flat and not roll  use darning thread for fine materials

Satin stitch

 dense, short zig-zag (stitch length 0.5-0.7 mm)  use satin stitch for appliqué, embroidery, etc

Double overlock

As a variation the satin stitch No. 1354 can be used.

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Overlock foot No. 2A

Double overlock No. 10

Closed seam

Double overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits and jerseys.

Knits and jersey

 use a new Jersey needle to prevent damaging the loops  if necessary loosen presser foot pressure

Sewing stretch materials

If necessary use a stretch needle (130/705H-S).

Page 90

Topstitching edges

Practical stitches

Blindstitch foot No. 5 Reverse pattern foot No. 1C Edge stitch foot No. 10/10C/10D (optional accessory)

Straight stitch No. 1

Narrow edgestitching

25 15 15

5/85/8

5/8

Outer edges

⦁

place edge of fold left against the guide on the blindstitch foot

⦁

select the needle position left in the desired distance to the edge

Hem edges

⦁

25 15 15

5/85/8

5/8

place edge of fold (inside upper edge of hem) right against the guide on the blindstitch foot

⦁

select needle position to the right to sew along the upper edge

Blindstitch foot No. 5

Needle position left or far right.

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C and Edge stitch foot No. 10/10C/10D (optional accessory)

Any needle position possible.

Wide edgestitching

25 15 15

5/8

Material guidance

Presser foot as guide:

⦁

guide the folded edge along the edge of the presser foot

Stitch plate as guide:

⦁

guide the folded edge along the marks on the stitch plate (1 to 2.5 cm)

25 15 15

5/85/8

5/8

Seam guide as guide: Presser foot

⦁

loosen the screw on the back of the presser foot

⦁

insert the seam guide into the hole of the presser foot

⦁

adjust width as desired

⦁

tighten the screw

⦁

guide the folded edge along the seam guide

To sew parallel wider lines, guide the seam guide along a previously sewn line of stitches.

Page 91

Practical stitches

Blind Hems

Wrong side of the material

25 15 15

5/85/8

5/8

Blindstitch foot No. 5

Blindstitch No. 9

For invisible hems in medium to heavy weight cotton, wool and blended materials.

Preparation

⦁

finish the raw edges

⦁

fold the hem and baste or pin in place

⦁

fold the fabric back over the right side of the fabric to expose the finished lower edge

⦁

place under presser foot and

⦁

move the folded edge against the metal guide on the presser foot

Sewing

The needle should just pierce the edge of the fold, as when hand blindstitching.

⦁

after sewing about 10 cm, check both sides of fabric and adjust width again if necessary

Right side of the material

Visible Hem

Fine stitch width adjustment

Guide the folded edge evenly along the metal guide on the foot = even depth.

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C/1D

Jersey stitch No. 14

For visible, elastic hems in jersey, cotton, synthetic and mixed fibers.

Preparation

⦁

iron the hem, baste if necessary

⦁

reduce the presser foot pressure if necessary

Sewing

⦁

sew the hem at preferred depth on the right side

⦁

trim excess fabric from the wrong side

Page 92

Securing Program

Practical stitches

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Securing Program No. 5

 for all fabrics  secures beginning and end of seam

Sewing long seams with straight stitch

Even securing by defined stitch count.

Sewing start

⦁

press the foot control

►

the sewing computer secures automatically when beginning to sew (5 stitches forward, 5 stitches in reverse)

⦁

sew seam with straight stitches in desired length

Sewing end

⦁

press «Quick reverse»-button

►

the sewing computer secures seam automatically (5 stitches in reverse, 5 stitches forward)

►

the sewing computer stops automatically at the end of the securing program

Basting Stitch

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C/1D

Basting stitch No. 21

 straight stitch, sews out every fourth stitch, i.e. longest stitch possible is

24 mm, when the stitch length is set at 6 mm. Recommended stitch length

3.5-5 mm  for work which requires a very long stitch  basting seams, hems, Quilts etc.  temporary joining  easy to remove

Preparation

⦁

pin work at a right angle to basting direction

►

to prevent the layers from slipping

Securing/fixing the thread

Sew 3-4 securing stitches at the beginning and at the end.

Thread

Use a fine darning thread for basting as it is easier to remove.

Page 93

Practical stitches

Flat joining seam

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Stretch overlock No. 13

Ideal for fluffy or thick materials such as terry cloth, felt and leather etc.

Sewing

⦁

overlap fabric edges

⦁

sew along the fabric edge

⦁

the needle should sew over the edge of the top layer on the right side

►

very flat durable seam

Page 94

Height Compensation of uneven layers

Practical stitches

The feed dog works accurately when the foot is level.

If the presser foot is at an angle when sewing over a thick seam, the feed dog cannot grip. The fabric may jam.

To solve this problem, place one, two or three compensating plates as required behind the needle under the presser foot to level it.

To correct the height in front of the foot, place one or more plates under the foot close to the needle. Sew until the foot is level again and remove the plates.

Needle stop down.

Sewing Corners

Due to the width of the stitch plate hole the outer feed dog rows are relatively far apart.

When sewing corners only a small section of the fabric is actually on the feed dog. Therefore it cannot grip the fabric well. Place one or more plates of the height compensation tool parallel to the presser foot close to the edge of the fabric.

►

the fabric is fed evenly

Needle stop down.

Page 95

Buttonholes

Overview Buttonholes

Buttonholes are not only practical closures, they can also be used as a decorative effect. All buttonholes can be programmed and sewn in different ways.

⦁

touch the «Buttonhole»-button

⦁

scroll to see more buttonholes

Standard buttonhole

For light to medium weight fabrics; blouses, shirts, trousers, bedlinens, etc.

Standard buttonhole narrow

For light- to medium weight fabrics; blouses, dresses, children's and baby clothes, crafts

Stretch buttonhole

For any highly elastic jersey made from cotton, wool, silk and synthetic fibers

Round buttonhole with normal bartack

For medium- to heavy weight materials: dresses, jackets, coats, rainwear

Round buttonhole with horizontal bartack

For medium- to heavy weight fabrics of all types: dresses, jackets, coats, rainwear

Keyhole buttonhole with horizontal bartack

For firmer, non-elastic materials; jackets, coats, leisure wear

Straight stitch buttonhole

Program for staystitching buttonholes, for pocket openings, reinforcing buttonholes; especially for buttonholes in leather and imitation leather

Heirloom buttonhole

For light- to medium weight woven fabrics; blouses, dresses, leisure wear, bed linen

Double rounded buttonhole

For medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types

Double rounded Heirloom buttonhole

For light to medium weight woven fabrics, blouses, dresses and bed linens

Keyhole buttonhole

For heavy weight, non-stretch materials; jackets, coats, leisure wear

Keyhole buttonhole with pointed bartack

For firmer, non-stretch materials: jackets, coats, leisure wear

Buttonhole with double Pointed Bartack, narrow

Decorative buttonhole for medium weight materials; blouses, dresses, jackets

Double pointed bartack buttonhole

For medium weight woven fabrics, blouses, dresses and jackets

Page 96

Decorative Keyhole buttonhole with horizontal bartack

For firmer, non-stretch materials: jackets, coats, leisure wear

Buttonholes

Decorative buttonhole with double pointed bartack

For decorative buttonholes in firmer, non-elastic fabrics

Decorative Stretch Buttonhole

For light to medium weight knits

Button sew-on program

For buttons with 2 and 4 holes

Eyelet with small zig-zag

Openings for cords and narrow ribbons, decorative work

Straight-stitch eyelet

Openings for cords and narrow ribbons, decorative work

Page 97

Buttonholes

Important information

Marking the length of manual buttonholes

⦁

mark the buttonhole length in the desired position

⦁

use Buttonhole foot No. 3C (optional accessory)

Marking the length of automatic buttonholes

⦁

mark the length of just one buttonhole

►

after sewing the first buttonhole the length is programmed

⦁

mark only the beginning of all subsequent buttonholes

⦁

use automatic Buttonhole foot No. 3A

Marking the length of keyhole buttonholes

⦁

mark the bead length only

►

the correct eye length will be added when the buttonhole is sewn

►

after sewing the first buttonhole the length is programmed

⦁

mark only the beginning of all subsequent buttonholes

⦁

use automatic Buttonhole foot No. 3A

Test sample

⦁

always sew a test sample on the same fabric and

⦁

stabilizer to be used for the project

⦁

select the buttonhole type you intend to use

⦁

sew the buttonhole in the same direction on the fabric (horizontal or vertical, with or against the grain)

⦁

cut the buttonhole open

⦁

insert the button through the buttonhole

⦁

adjust the buttonhole length if necessary

Adjusting the bead width

⦁

alter the stitch width

Altering the stitch length

Stitch length adjustments affect both buttonhole beads.

►

spacing between the stitches

After stitch length adjustment:

⦁

re-program the buttonhole

If a buttonhole is to be sewn at right angles to the seam, we recommend the use of the height compensation plates (optional accessory). Place the plates from the back between fabric and bottom of slide foot up to the thick part of the fabric and push to front.

When sewing a buttonhole in difficult materials, we recommend to using the Compensation plate for buttonholes (optional accessory). It can be used along with Buttonhole foot No. 3A.

Page 98

Stabilizer

Buttonholes

 interfacing provides durability and stability to the buttonhole  choose the interfacing according to the material being used

 when using thick or fluffy materials an embroidery stabilizer can be used

►

therefore the fabric feeds better

Page 99

Cord

Buttonholes

In general

 cords reinforce buttonholes and enhance their appearance  mainly suitable for buttonhole No. 51

⦁

position the work accordingly

Ideal cords

 Perle cotton No. 8  strong hand-sewing thread  fine crochet yarn

Cord with the automatic Buttonhole foot No. 3A

⦁

raise the Buttonhole foot No. 3A

⦁

insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole

⦁

guide the cord on the right side under the Buttonhole foot No. 3A

⦁

hook the cord over the pin at the back of the Buttonhole foot No. 3A

⦁

pull the cord on the left side under the Buttonhole foot No. 3A to the front

⦁

pull the cord ends into the slits

⦁

lower the Buttonhole foot No. 3A

Sewing

⦁

sew the buttonhole in the usual manner

⦁

do not hold the cord

►

the buttonhole will sew over the cord, covering it

Cord with the Buttonhole foot No. 3C (optional accessory)

⦁

raise the buttonhole foot

⦁

insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole

⦁

hook cord over the pin in the middle of the buttonhole foot (at the front)

⦁

pull both cord ends under the buttonhole foot sole to the back and

⦁

place both ends of the cord in the grooves on the sole

⦁

lower the buttonhole foot

Sewing

⦁

sew the buttonhole in the usual manner

⦁

do not hold the cord

►

the buttonhole will sew over the cord, covering it

Fixing the cord

⦁

pull the cord through the buttonhole until the loop disappears into the end of it

⦁

pull the ends of the cord through to wrong side of the fabric, using a hand stitching-needle

⦁

knot or secure with stitches

Before cutting the buttonhole open

Place a pin in each end of the buttonhole to avoid accidental cutting into ends of buttonhole.

Cutting buttonholes open with the seam ripper

⦁

cut the buttonhole from the ends to the middle

Cutting open buttonholes with the buttonhole cutter (optional accessory)

⦁

place the fabric on the wood

⦁

place the cutter in the center of the buttonhole

⦁

press down on the cutter with your hand

Page 100

Altering the balance

1 2

Buttonholes

⦁

touch the «i»-icon

⦁

touch the «Balance»-icon

Balance with direct entry length buttonholes

The balance alterations have the same effect on both beads.

Balance with direct entry length keyhole or round buttonholes

The balance alterations have the same effect on both beads. The keyhole or eye is balanced as follows:

⦁

sew straight stitches forward until

►

the sewing computer changes to the keyhole or eye, then

⦁

stop the sewing computer

⦁

touch the «Balance»-icon

⦁

turn the stitch length-knob until the picture in the right portion of the Display is identical with the sewn buttonhole

The keyhole is distorted to the right 1:

⦁

turn the stitch length-knob to the left

The keyhole is distorted to the left 2:

⦁

turn the stitch length-knob to the right

⦁

touch the «i»- or «Close»-icon and finish the buttonhole

Balance for manual keyhole or round buttonhole

Any balance alteration affects both beads differently: Left bead too dense 3:

⦁

turn the stitch length-knob to the left

►

the left bead is elongated, the right bead is shortened

Left bead too wide 4:

⦁

turn the stitch length-knob to the right

►

the left bead is shortened, the right bead is elongated

The keyhole or eye is balanced as follows: The keyhole is distorted to the right 1:

⦁

turn the stitch length-knob to the right

The keyhole is distorted to the left 2:

⦁

turn the stitch length-knob to the left

Balance for manual standard buttonhole

The balance alterations have the same effect on both beads.

Balance for stitch counter buttonhole

The balance has a different effect on both beads (see picture of the manual buttonhole).

⦁

re-program the buttonhole after each alteration in balance

Clear Balance

⦁

touch the yellow-framed icon in the special Balance-Display or

⦁

press «clr»-button

►

«clr» also deletes the programmed buttonhole!

Recommendation

Test-sewing of the buttonhole on the original material.

In all direct entry length and manual buttonholes each individual buttonhole sequence can be balanced separately. In stitch counter buttonholes the balance affects both beads differently (left and right): When altering the bead the keyhole or eye are automatically altered accordingly.

Bernina 880 Plus User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual