Apple macbookpro-2.4 2.2GHz-15 Service Manual

Page 1
 Service Source

MacBook Pro

(15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz Mid 2007
and Late 2007 CTO)
updated 1 November 2007
© 2007 Apple Inc. All rights reserved.
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 Apple Inc.
Under the copyright laws, this document may not be copied, in whole or in part, without the written consent of Apple.
Every eort has been made to ensure that the information in this document is accurate. Apple is
not responsible for printing or clerical errors.
Apple 1 Innite Loop Cupertino, CA 95014-2084 USA + 1 408 996 1010 www.apple.com
Apple, the Apple logo, Mac, and Macintosh are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries.
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MacBook Pro
(15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz Mid 2007 / Late 2007)

Contents

Basics
General Information 7
Adjustments
Latch Adjustment 14
Take Apart
Battery 18
Memory 20
Replacement Procedure 23
Top Case 25
Keyboard 38
Replacement Procedure 45
AirPort Extreme Card 50
Bluetooth Card 53
Bluetooth Antenna 56
Infrared Board 59
Replacement Procedure 61
Hard Drive 62
Replacement Procedure 67
Optical Drive 70
Handling Slot-Load Optical Drives 73 Replacement Procedure 76 Removing a Stuck Disc from an Optical Drive 77
Backup Battery 79
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Left Ambient Light Sensor 83
Right ALS Dust Cover 86
Fans 88
To remove the left fan: 89 To remove the right fan: 91
Logic Board 94
Battery Cable Assembly 103
Heatsink 106
Thermal Sensors 108
Speakers 111
To remove the left speaker: 112 To remove the right speaker: 11 3
Left I/O Board 116
ExpressCard Cage 122
Bottom Case 123
Display Assembly 125
Replacement Procedure 12 9
Display Rear Housing 130
Replacement Procedure 13 3
Display Hooks 134
Sleep Magnet 136
LED Display Driver Board 138
Troubleshooting
General Information 141
Wire and Flex Cables 141 Microphone and Camera wires 142 Hardware Diagnostics 142 Troubleshooting Aids and Tips 143 MacBook Pro Firmware Updates 144 Software Troubleshooting Tips and Tools 145 Application compatibility 147 Universal binary 147 Rosetta 147
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Hardware Symptoms 148
How to Use the Symptom Charts 148 Startup 14 8 AirPort Extreme 15 4 Battery 15 5 Bluetooth 15 8 Display 15 9 ExpressCard/34 16 0 Hard Drive 161 Apple Remote 16 2 Infrared Board 16 3 Built-in iSight Camera 16 3 Keyboard 16 5 Microphone 16 6 Modem (External) 16 6 Optical Drive 16 7 Ports 16 9 MagSafe Power Adapter 17 0 Sound 17 1 Trackpad 17 2 Video 17 3 Miscellaneous Symptoms 17 5
Views
Exploded View - Body 17 9 Screw Charts 180-182 Architecture 183
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 Service Source

Basics

(MacBook Pro 15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz
Mid 2007 / Late 2007 CTO)
© 2007 Apple Inc. All rights reserved.
Page 7
Product View

General Information

Overview
The MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) is the third generation in Apple’s line of Intel-based
professional notebook computers. Based on a newer and more robust Intel Core 2 Duo chip, the architecture supports faster clock speeds, now extended to a new CTO option of 2.6GHz, and
increases bus speeds to 800 MHz. Speed aside, the new system now addresses up to a full 4 GB of
DDR2 memory and sports a new on-board graphics chip: the NVIDIA GeForce 8600M GT.
The MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) also introduces a new LED-driven, power-ecient display backlight (the industry’s rst 15-inch) rather than using uorescent tube backlighting, eliminating
mercury from the display. Apple recently announced this technology publicly as part a new corporate directive toward a “Greener Apple.”
From the exterior, the MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) is identical in appearance to the previous
MacBook Pro (15-inch Core 2 Duo).
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Basics— General Information 7
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Main service and feature differences among 15-inch MacBook Pro models:
NOTE: On November 1, 2007 a new 2.6GHz CTO (congure to order) option was added to the line of MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) models. In addition, two previous CTO hard drive options
(200GB, 4200 rp m and 160GB, 7200 rp m) were upgraded to faster and larger capacity hard drives (250GB, 5400 rpm and 200GB 7200 rp m).
However, despite conguration changes all service procedures remain the same. See exploded views in the Views chapter for new part numbers.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz)
Microprocessor 2.4/2.2GHz Core 2 Duo
+ new 2.6GHz CTO option
Bus Speed 800 MHz 667 MHz 667 MHz
Max RAM 4 GB 3 GB 2 GB
Hard Drive(s)
(former Mid 2007
CTO options)
New Late 2007
CTO Hard Drives
Graphics Chip NVIDIA GeForce 8600M GT ATI x1600 ATI x1600
Display LED Backlight CCFL Backlight CCFL Backlight
Optical Drive 8x DVD Dual Layer
120GB, 5400 160GB, 5400 rp m (2.4)
200GB, 4200 rp m (c to ) 160GB, 7200 rp m (c to )
250GB, 5400 rpm (ct o) 200GB, 7200 rp m (c to )
SuperDrive
rp m (2.2)
MacBook Pro (15-inch Core 2 Duo)
2.33/2.16GHz
Core 2 Duo
120GB, 5400 rp m (2.16) 160GB, 5400 rp m (2.33) 200GB, 4200 rp m (c to )
6x DVD Dual Layer
Superdrive
MacBook Pro (15-inch and 15-inch Glossy)
2.16/2.0/1.83GHz
Core Duo
80GB, 5400 rpm (1.83) 100GB, 5400 rp m (2.0) 120GB, 5400 rp m (2.16) 100GB, 7200 rp m (c to )
4x DVD Superdrive
New Parts and Procedures
Main Logic Board
The main logic board of the MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) has a third thermal sensor connector near the left fan. This thermal sensor is attached to the bottom case.
Memory
The maximum supported amount of memory is 4 GB rather than 3 GB.
LED Backlight LCD Panel
The new LED backlit LCD panel can be easily identied in a couple ways. The display driver board is now at the bottom of the panel instead of the top. The LVDS cable no longer travels up the back of the display. In addition, the LED power is integrated into this cable.
This technology allows for a continuous backlight from the moment power is applied. Previously,
the uorescent tube required a warm-up period to reach operating brightness. Not only does
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Basics— General Information 8
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LED technology eliminate all mercury from the display, but also LEDs weigh less and provide
Correct Insertion Incorrect InsertionCorrect Insertion Incorrect Insertion
more brightness for the equivalent amount of power.
It is very important that the video ex connection to the LCD panel be properly inserted, aligned and seated in its connector on the panel. Misalignment can cause multiple video issues. During
insertion, the connector should be perfectly straight, not at an angle, and the connector should
slide into its mate in a at position, parallel to the LCD panel, not obliquely. See illustration below.
Keyboard
The side tabs on the upper right and left of the keyboard have been removed. The keyboard
drops right into the keyboard well rather than having to bend the corners to t in each side tab.
To compensate for the removal of the corner tabs, two screws have been added to the bottom.
ExpressCard Cage
The ExpressCard cage enclosure has multiple perforations in the metal to cut down on weight
and materials. In addition, “pocket screws” now secure the cage to the left I/O board. These larger
headed screws make contact with EMI gaskets on the bottom case for improved noise isolation.
Temperature Concerns
The customer may perceive this system to run hotter than previous models. However, the normal operating temperature is well within national and international safety standards. Still, customers may be concerned about the heat generated by their machine. To prevent an unnecessary repair, you can compare a customer’s computer to a running model, if available, at your repair site.
For more information on temperature concerns and customer perception, refer to Knowledge Base article 30612: Apple Notebooks: Operating Temperature.
Display Takeapart
With the MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz), we still utilize the whole display clamshell as a service part. However, some parts are accessible by the removal of the display rear housing.
Specically, a Service Provider can replace:
Display hooks • Sleep magnet• Display housing • Camera board
All other parts including the LVDS cable are serviced with the whole clamshell module.
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Identifying the MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz)
Below are external views of the MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) which has no external features
that dierentiate it from its predecessor, the MacBook Pro (Core 2 Duo).
Left side: MagSafe™ power connector; USB, microphone, headphone ports; ExpressCard34 slot
Right side: Security lock slot; USB, FireWire 400, FireWire 800, Ethernet and DVI video ports
Front: Infrared sensor window
Rear: Same wider rear venting as the previous MacBook Pro (Core 2 Duo).
Display bezel: MacBook Pro
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Basics— General Information 10
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Serial Number and Ethernet ID
The Serial Number and Ethernet ID are located in the battery bay.
Tools
The takeapart procedure for the MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) requires the following tools:
Clean non-marring work surface• ESD wrist strap and mat
Multi-compartment screw tray (such as a plastic ice cube tray) #0 Phillips screwdriver (magnetized) #1 Phillips screwdriver (magnetized) Torx T6 screwdriver (magnetized) 4 mm socket wrench
Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade tool
Razor knife Needle-point metal probe Needlenose pliers Tweezers Kapton tape (922-1731) (0.5-inch x 12-yard roll) Thermal grease (922-7144) Gasket kit (076-1261) Alcohol pads Fine-point felt-tip permanent marker Apple Pro keyboard and mouse (for troubleshooting)
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Electrostatic Discharge (ESD)
Use a properly grounded ESD wrist strap and mat when working on the inside of the computer.
Service Manual Note
In this manual, graphics or photos are intended to help illustrate procedures or information only,
and may show dierent levels of disassembly, board colors, congurations, or computer models,
than your computer.
Kapton® Tape Note
Kapton tape is used to secure cables and connectors where necessary.
During disassembly, note any Kapton tape use and locations—reapply in the same manner. Do
not over apply or build up tape on top of old tape; space tolerances are tight and build up or extraneous use of tape may cause pressure on other components.
Cable Routing Note
With the MacBook Pro’s one-inch enclosure height, the placement of parts and wiring is critical.
During disassembly, note cable routing. Reassemble in the same manner. Verify that cables do
not route over components when they should route into lower positions or channels. Verify that the cables are not strained or applying pressure onto other components.
Screw Measurement Note
All screw measurements given are the specied full length. Actual measured lengths may vary.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Basics— General Information 12
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 Service Source

Adjustments

(MacBook Pro 15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz
Mid 2007 / Late 2007 CTO)
© 2007 Apple Inc. All rights reserved.
Page 14

Latch Adjustment

Overview
To secure the display to the top case, the MacBook Pro uses a latch assembly that consists of two parts—a latch mechanism under the top case (actually attached to the bottom case frame) and two swinging latch hooks inside the display assembly clamshell. As the unit is closed, magnets inside the latch mechanism pull the metal latch hooks down into the bottom case, and an overhang on the latch mechanism clasps the hooks to the frame.
If the display does not properly latch to the top case, fails to remain closed, or pops up without the display release button being pushed, you can make adjustments to the latch hooks that may correct the issue. Alternately, you can send the computer to an Apple Repair Center for service.
Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
Black stick (or other non-marring nylon or plastic pointed tool) Magnet
Preliminary Steps
Warning: While performing the following procedures, take note of the position of the hooks as they are drawn out of the display housing and down into the slots in the top case. Any adjustments to these hooks must be very slight to stay within the slot on the top case.
Before performing the latch adjustment, test the current operation of the latches:
Push the display down to about two inches from the top case. Then push the display very 1. slowly until it just touches the top case, and immediately release.
If working properly, the latches should secure the display to the top case throughout the following tests:
Pounding rmly on the table top, to the left and right of the computer.
Pulling up on the sides of the display.
Repeat the above procedures several times to verify proper operation of the latches.
Whether or not the latches functioned properly during testing, use the following procedures 2. to achieve or to verify proper latching function.
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Procedure
Note: The latch mechanism under the top case of the computer has a small amount of right and left play (less than 1 mm), and can shift during normal operation.
The following procedures will test the latching function with the latch mechanism at its maximum right and left positions, and the latch hooks will be very slightly adjusted, as necessary.
Important: The latch hook metal can become brittle and break if it is bent too much, especially if it is over-bent and bent back. Work carefully and with due restraint to avoid over-bending the latch hook. If the latch hook breaks, new latch hooks will need to be ordered and replaced.
Open the display and note the edges of the latch mechanism underneath the top case, 1. shown below, just to the right and left of the latch release button. This mechanism catches both left and right latch hooks on the display assembly.
Use a black stick to push the latch mechanism, at the location shown below, to move it to 2. the left as needed (less than 1 mm) or its corresponding location on the left side of the latch release button to move it right (less than 1 mm).
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Perform the testing procedures in step 1 of the Preliminary Steps, above.3.
If the latch functions properly, skip to step 6; otherwise, if either or both latch hooks require 4. an adjustment, refer to the following steps.
If the latch mechanism does not function properly, adjust the latch hook(s) as follows:5.
Open the display to a 90-degree angle and use a magnet to draw the latch hook out. Tightly grasp it between your thumb and forenger as close to the display as possible, as shown.
Carefully exert a very slight controlled downward pressure on the latch hook.
Important: Do not push only with your thumb. Hold the latch hook tightly between your thumb and forenger to support the latch hook and prevent too much bending force.
Release the latch hook, adjust the other latch hook as needed, and perform the latch tests as 6. before. Continue the above procedure until both latches function properly.
Again, if needed, use a black stick to push on the latch mechanism, as shown below, to adjust 7. it slightly left or right (no more than 1 mm) or to re-center the mechanism over the latch release button.
Repeat the previous latch closing tests, and latch hook adjustment if needed, until the latch 8. works properly in this position.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Adjustments — Display Latch 16
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 Service Source

Take Apart

(MacBook Pro 15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz
Mid 2007 / Late 2007 CTO)
© 2007 Apple Inc. All rights reserved.
Page 18

Battery

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
Clean non-marring work surface
Preliminary Steps
Warning: Always shut down the computer before opening it to avoid damaging its internal components or causing injury. After you shut down the computer, the internal components can be very hot. Let the computer cool down before continuing.
Part Location
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Procedure
Warning: If the computer has been recently operating, allow it to cool down before performing this procedure.
Shut down the computer.1.
Disconnect the power cord and any other cables connected to the computer.2.
Place the computer face down.3.
Slide both battery latches away and lift the battery out of the battery bay.4.
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Memory

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
#0 Phillips screwdriver (magnetized) Clean non-marring work surface
ESD wrist strap and mat
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y
Part Location
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Procedure
Warning: If the computer has been recently operating, allow it to cool down before performing this procedure.
Place the computer face down.1.
Remove the three Phillips screws from the memory door. 2.
Remove the door, as shown. 3.
Notes:
If only one memory card is installed, the factory installs it in the bottom memory slot.
Memory must be removed from the top slot before removing from the bottom slot.
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To remove memory cards, carefully spread the two locking tabs for the slot (top or bottom) 4. away from the card on both sides and allow the card to pop up slightly.
Pull the card straight back and out of the memory slot. Handle the memory card by the 5. edges only, taking care not to touch the gold contacts.
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Replacement Procedure

Notes:
DDR memory cards do not t in this slot, only DDR2 (dierent notch location).• If installing two cards, install the rst card into the bottom slot before the top slot.
Align the notch in the memory card with the tooth in the slot before inserting.
To install memory cards, insert them at a 30-degree angle. ‘1.
Note: Insert the bottom card behind the locking tabs of the top slot.
Firmly push the card straight into the slot until it is fully and securely seated along its length. 2. Note: If the back of the card drops down before it is fully seated, raise it up enough to push it fully into the slot.
When the card is fully seated, push the card straight down until the tabs click onto both 3. sides of the card, locking it into place.
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Verify that the card is fully seated by pushing rmly with your thumbs. 4.
Check that the cards are secured by the brackets on both sides.5.
Install the memory door.6.
Replace the battery.7.
Use Apple System Proler to verify that the memory is recognized. (Choose the menu 8. bar Apple logo () > About This Mac, click More Info..., select the System Prole tab,
open the Memory Overview.)
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Top Case

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
#0 Phillips screwdriver (magnetized) Torx T6 screwdriver (magnetized)
Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade toolMulti-compartment screw tray (such as a plastic ice cube tray)
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y Memory Doo r
Part Location
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Procedure
Notes:
If replacing the top case, once the top case is removed, use a razor knife to carefully lift and • transfer the Serial Number and Ethernet ID labels to the replacement top case.
This procedure removes the top case and keyboard assembly. The keyboard is removable only after removing the top case.
Place the computer upside down on a soft, non-marring surface.1.
2. Remove the four Phillips and two Torx T6 screws shown.
3. Rotate the computer and remove the two Phillips screws along the front of the battery bay.
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4. Remove the four Phillips screws from each side.
5. Remove the two Phillips screws from the back edge.
.
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Face the computer toward you with the display open slightly past 90-degrees. Using your 6.
ngernails or the tips of your ngers, grasp just beneath the top case in the upper right and left corners. Lift upward a few inches, then work your hands around the top case toward the
front, slowly lifting and encouraging the clips and screw tabs to release. A snapping noise when the clips release is normal.
Note: Take care to preserve the cosmetic integrity of the plastic beading around the edges of the top case. If using a black stick for leverage to get the clips to release, don’t rotate the stick too much along the edges to avoid denting the soft plastic.
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Along the front, start at the left and slowly encourage the snaps and screw tabs (shown in 7. graphic below) to release as you move right. A snapping noise as the snaps release is normal. Again, take care to preserve the cosmetic integrity of the plastic beading around the edges
by pulling up with your ngernails rst. If a black stick is necessary to release the snaps, avoid
too much rotation along the edges to keep from denting the soft plastic.
Important: Do not lift the case once it is free—it is still connected to the bottom case by the keyboard ex cable.
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Important: To avoid bending screw tabs along the back edge of the top case, lift the top case
slightly so that it does NOT touch the bottom case, then rotate the front of the case up and back until you can disconnect the keyboard ex cable from the logic board.
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Replacement Procedure
Note: If replacing the top case, remove the keyboard and transfer to the replacement top case. (See keyboard section in next chapter for replacement instructions.)
Visually check to verify that all cables are connected and routed correctly with nothing raised 1. up or incorrectly placed over a component.
Check perimeter wiring and cables around clutches to verify that they will not be caught or 2. pinched by the top case during replacement.
On the computer, verify that all cables are secure and lay at.3.
On the top case, check cable connections and routing.4.
Note: Unique identiers for this top case: the right ALS dust cover mounted with adhesive and a small bit of copper tape under an opening in the black mylar lm over the keyboard.
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Check that the perimeter screw tabs and ribs are not bent. 5.
Note: The metal can quickly fatigue and break o. Be extremely careful to gently straighten
tabs, if needed.
Verify that the plastic spacer is on the front screw tab, shown. 6.
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Verify that the screw tabs in back are straight and guide them inside the bottom case. Work 7. your way around guiding the screw tabs into the bottom case along both sides.
If the back screw tabs are bent out, straighten by pressing the edge of the case on a hard at 8. surface and rolling to vertical.
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Any screw tabs that are not straight will not t or accept screws correctly. 9.
Use your nger and a black stick to carefully straighten bent screw tabs. 10.
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Connect the ex cable from the top case to the logic board.11.
Lift the top case o the bottom case slightly and rotate it down (verify that the keyboard 12.
cable stays connected and is folding properly) and align the corners.
Carefully pull or push tabs slightly, if needed. 13 .
Note: Guarded, controlled pushing with your thumb may be helpful to gently nesse the
tabs into place.
The two front screw tabs may need to be guided with a black stick through the battery bay.14.
Squeeze at the snap locations (shown below) along the front edge of the top case to verify 15 . that the they are seated. You should hear ve audible snaps when pressing down the front edge of the top case. The top case should lay at along all sides and top, if not, make sure
that cables and components are not interfering.
To minimize any cosmetic gaps between the edges of the top and bottom case, rmly press 16. down the top case with your ngers, squeezing the cases together at each location while
installing the left and right side screws, especially toward the front of the computer.
Important: Do not insert screws into the DVI port screw holes. If they get stuck, it may require removing the logic board to dislodge.
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Install the bottom Phillips screws and the two Torx T6 screws near the memory chips. 17.
Using the at end of a black stick to gently wedge the edge of the top case toward the 18. bottom case to minimize gaps, install the two Phillips screws along the back.
.
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Install the two Phillips screws in the battery bay. 19.
Important: For the screw shown, push in the display latch button while installing the screw.
Check that the edges of the top case sit ush with the bottom case around the entire 20. perimeter of the computer. If there are noticeable gaps, reinstall the top case taking extra care to secure top case top bottom when replacing the perimeter screws.
Install the memory door and replace the battery. 21.
Testing the computer should include:22.
Powering on, checking the keyboard and trackpad function.
Operate the computer in a darkened room to check for keyboard backlight function.Verify Bluetooth operation by checking that the it appears in either the Apple Menu bar • or in the Apple System Proler USB section.
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Keyboard

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
#0 Phillips screwdriver (magnetized)• Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade tool
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y Top Cas e
Part Location
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Procedure
Important Notes:
The MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) keyboard is not interchangeable with any previous
models, including the original MacBook Pro and the MacBook Pro (Core 2 Duo). If replacing
the keyboard, verify that the correct replacement keyboard and/or top case is ordered.
The keyboard comes as a multi-layered assembly and includes backlighting. Do not • disassemble the keyboard itself. Dust, ngerprints, or misalignment can cause improper
function and damage to the assembly.
On a clean at surface, turn the top case upside down.1.
Locate the protective cover over the ex cable connectors as shown below. 2.
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Rotate the top case to have the cable connectors facing you for better access. Carefully lift 3. the perimeter of the cover nearest the cable connectors to release the adhesive. If necessary, use a razor knife to lift up the edge enough to slide in a black stick (see inset below).
Gently lift and hold up that half of the cover with the black stick to provide adequate access 4. to the connectors. Important: Keep the cover and its underlying adhesive clean and intact.
Remove any Kapton tape, then very carefully lift the latches of the connectors to release the 5. cables. Important: The connectors are delicate. If damaged, the top case must be replaced.
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Note the positioning, then carefully peel o the insulator lm covering the back of the 6. keyboard well. Reserve the lm and keep it clean for reinstallation.
Important: Use care at the notches and narrow parts to avoid ripping or tearing the lm.
Important: If any rubber pads are present, do not remove them if not replacing the top case. If
replacing the top case, transfer them to the same location.
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Use needlenose pliers to gently straighten the six bend-tabs located along the bottom edge, 7. as shown. These tabs lock down and stien the top edge of the keyboard. Important: The bend-tabs are delicate. Bend them carefully to avoid damage. Avoid over-bending.
Remove the twelve Phillips #00 keyboard screws. Be sure to sandwich keyboard to top case 8. when removing the nal screws.
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To prevent the keyboard from falling out, support it with your hand, and raise the top case 9. up vertically. Note: This keyboard has no side tabs like previous models.
If you lean the top case toward you top rst, the keyboard may simply fall into your hands. 10.
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Note the six insert-tabs along the bottom edge of the keyboard that tuck into the lower 11. edge of the keyboard well.
Lift the keyboard up and away from the top case to release the tabs along the bottom edge 12. and carefully thread out the ex cables. Important: During this procedure, do not allow the
tabs or metal edge of the keyboard to scrape along the cosmetic surface of the top case; otherwise damage can result.
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Replacement Procedure

When replacing the keyboard, here are some key points to keep in mind:
Prevention of scratches to the cosmetics of the top case All tabs are properly seated
Keyboard lays at
Bend-tabs are not damaged Screw holes align Cables are not caught Cable connectors are not damaged and cables are secure Kapton tape is applied as before
Insulator lm is correctly installed
Before installing a replacement keyboard, verify that the six bend-tabs along the bottom 1. edge of the keyboard are straight and parallel with the edge (shown close-up below).
Important: Do not bend any other bend-tabs on the keyboard other than the six along the bottom. Other tabs hold the layered keyboard assembly together.
Guide the keyboard’s ex cables through the slot in the top case, as shown. Make sure that 2.
they do not catch, bend or get pinched behind the keyboard.
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Verify that the small backlight cable routes through the slot, as shown. 3.
Lower the keyboard into the well and seat all six tabs along the bottom, so that the keyboard 4. sits at and straight.
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Page 47
Verify that the bend-tabs are not caught.5.
Pull on the ex cables to verify that they are not bent or caught under the keyboard, and 6. that they extend to their connectors.
Verify that the screw holes align with the screw bosses, and, holding the keyboard in place 7. with your other hand, work outward from the middle to install all twelve keyboard screws.
Bend the six bend-tabs over the metal of the top case to secure the edge of the keyboard. 8. Important: The bend-tabs are delicate. Bend them carefully to avoid damage and no more than 90 degrees, or to, or within, any etch marks, if present. Avoid over-bending.
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Insert the two ex cables into their connectors and secure. Verify that the cables are fully 9. inserted and secured straight. Kapton tape will be applied to the small connector later.
Reinstall the protective cover over the area shown. Carefully burnish down the edges to 10. secure. (top case shown rotated)
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Replace the insulator lm in the same location from which it was removed. Ensure the holes 11 . in the lm match up correctly with the screw bosses. Avoid wrinkles and bulges. If installing a replacement top case, use the new lm if supplied.
Important: The lm must be installed in the same location to protect against contact and
electrical shorting in certain areas as well as to allow connection with the EMI spring on the logic board.
Install Kapton tape to secure the small ex cable connector.12.
Verify that any rubber pads (mentioned earlier) are installed in the correct locations.13 .
If the lm extends over the edge of the keyboard well, run your nger along the edges to 14. secure it to the top case.
Reassemble the computer.15 .
Testing the computer should include powering on the unit, checking keyboard and trackpad 16.
function. Operate the computer in a darkened room to check for keyboard backlight
function, as well as light leakage around the perimeter of the keyboard, speaker grill openings and side ports.
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Page 50

AirPort Extreme Card

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
Torx T6 screwdriver (magnetized)• Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade toolKapton tape (922-1731) (0.5-inch x 12-yard roll)
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y Top Cas e
Part Location
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Procedure
Remove the three antenna connectors. Lift straight up.1.
Remove the Torx T6 screw and bracket, and peel up any kapton tape holding down the 2. Airport card, if present. The card should rise up slightly.
3. Pull the card straight out.
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Verify that the antenna cables route at in the channel and underneath the two brackets on 4. the left speaker. Secure with Kapton tape, if necessary.
5. Connect each antenna cable to its respective terminal. Note that the color of each antenna cable corresponds with a matching color key located above the terminals.
6. Verify that the ambient light sensor ex cable is connected properly.
Reassemble the computer.7.
Testing should include AirPort function. 8.
Quick Test: Open up Apple System Proler to make sure the Airport Extreme card is
recognized under the AirPort Card tab in the Network section.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — AirPort Extreme Card 52
Page 53

Bluetooth Card

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
#0 Phillips screwdriver (magnetized)• Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade toolKapton tape (922-1731) (0.5-inch x 12-yard roll)
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y Top Cas e
Part Location
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Bluetooth Card 53
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Procedure
Disconnect the Bluetooth antenna connector from the Bluetooth card, pulling straight up.1.
Remove one Phillips screw from the lower right corner of the Bluetooth card.2.
Remove the plastic protective cover by sliding it gently o the card, taking care to preserve 3. its integrity for reuse. Set the cover aside to use with the replacement Bluetooth card.
Holding the Bluetooth card by its edges, use a black stick to disconnect the cable connector 4. from the card as shown below.
Replacement Note: Before attaching the new Bluetooth card to the top case, install the plastic cover retained from the old card over the replacement and secure with Kapton tape if necessary.
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Replacing the Bluetooth cable
To remove or replace the Bluetooth cable, gently pry up adhesive using a black stick.1.
Disconnect the other end of the cable as shown.2.
Quick Check: Use Apple System Proler to see if Bluetooth HCI appears under the USB Bus tab
in the USB device section.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Bluetooth Card 55
Page 56

Bluetooth Antenna

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
#0 Phillips screwdriver (magnetized)• Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade tool
Razor knife Kapton tape (922-1731) (0.5-inch x 12-yard roll)
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y Top Cas e
Part Location
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Bluetooth Antenna 56
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Procedure
Disconnect the Bluetooth antenna connector from the Bluetooth card, pulling straight up. 1.
Remove two captured Phillips #0 screws from black plastic antenna shield which are 2. accessible via screwdriver through two visible holes in the foam cover.
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Pry shield up from top case using a black stick, taking care to preserve adhesive underneath. 3.
Use a black stick to remove the antenna, prying it up to release the adhesive. 4.
Replacement Note: If you remove the Bluetooth board during antenna replacement, reapply its protective cover and secure with Kapton tape if necessary before reinstalling on the top case.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Bluetooth Antenna 58
Page 59

Infrared Board

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
Torx T6 screwdriver (magnetized)• Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade tool
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y Top Cas e
Part Location
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Infrared Board 59
Page 60
Procedure
Disconnect the cable.1.
Remove the Torx T6 screw and bracket.2.
Using a black stick, lift out the infrared board. Lifting from both ends may be helpful. 1.
Important: Lift on the board only. Do NOT lift the infrared lens or sensor piece. It is secured
to the main board with two wires and will bend out of alignment.
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Note the cable routing and remove. Be sure to slip the cable out from under the small peg in 2. the frame.

Replacement Procedure

Route the cable as above.1.
To install, insert the board all the way into the channel, then push it forward until it stops 2. and the infrared lens aligns with the window.
Important: Push on the board only. Do NOT push on the infrared lens or sensor piece. It is
secured to the main board with two wires and will bend out of alignment.
Connect the cable connector.3.
Quick Test: Open Apple System Proler and check to see that IR Receiver appears under the USB
Bus tab in the USB device section.
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Page 62

Hard Drive

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
#0 Phillips screwdriver (magnetized) Torx T6 screwdriver (magnetized)
Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade toolKapton tape (922-1731) (0.5-inch x 12-yard roll)
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y Top Cas e
Part Location
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Procedure
NOTE: Some hard drives may have a metal disk attached to them for vibration stabilization (as shown below) while other models may not.
Carefully pry up the ex cable from the hard drive. 1.
Lift up cabling to gain some clearance. 2.
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Remove the two Phillips #0 screws from the drive bracket.3.
Remove the hard drive bracket.4.
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Using a black stick, tilt the hard drive up slightly on the right side; then work the hard drive 5.
out of its grommet wells on the left side and lift up just enough to access the ex connector.
If there is Kapton tape securing the ex connector, remove it very carefully to ensure that 6.
you don’t damage the label. A damaged label voids the warranty of the hard drive.
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Kapton tape may wrap all the way around the ex connector to the back side of the hard 7.
drive. If so, hold the hard drive by its sides to turn it over and release the Kapton tape.
Gently pry the ex connector from the hard drive.8.
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Replacement Procedure

Transfer the rubber grommets and screws. Replace any Kapton tape around ex cable.1.
NOTE: Some hard drives may have a metal disk attached to them for vibration stabilization.
Do not transfer this disk if the replacement drive comes without one. If a replacement hard
drive needs this metal disk, it will come preattached.
Tilting the hard drive as you insert it, tuck the screws on the left side of the hard drive into 2. the grommets in the bottom case.
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After lowering drive into place, replace bracket and screws.3.
Make sure the ex cable is re-adhered to its spot under the infrared connector.4.
Note: Notice there may be a warning label that says Do Not Cover This Hole directly under the
hard drive/IR ex cable. Not to worry. Because the vent hole is recessed, the upper portion of the ex cable end can cover the hole without actually blocking it.
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However, be sure that the lower part of the ex cable (with the Infrared cable connector) is the
portion that actually adheres to the hard drive. The sticky area should not cover the hole. In the shot below you can see where the adhesive residue is located.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Hard Drive 69
Page 70

Optical Drive

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
#0 Phillips screwdriver (magnetized) Torx T6 screwdriver (magnetized)
Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade tool
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y Top Cas e
Part Location
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Procedure
Disconnect the ex connector, removing any Kapton tape securing it.1.
2. Remove two Phillips #0 screws on the main logic board (the one on the right with a blue
washer) and the two smaller Phillips #00 screws near the frame. Lift out the drive by edges.
Transfer three brackets, including one EMI gasket, and ex cable to the replacement drive.*3.
* Important: See the subsequent section about handling slot-load optical drives.
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MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Optical Drive 72
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Handling Slot-Load Optical Drives

Follow the instructions in this section carefully. This procedure shows how to handle slot-load optical drives when they are outside the computer.
Observe ESD (electrostatic discharge) guidelines when handling optical drives.
Handle the drive only by the sides and back edge.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Optical Drive 73
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Do not touch the front of the drive.
Do not press on the drive or lift it by the top and bottom cover.
Do not handle the drive by the gull wing edge only.
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When storing optical drives, use approved packaging boxes. Never stack loose drives.
When returning a defective optical drive, use the original packaging and an antistatic bag. Pack only one drive per box.
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Replacement Procedure

Verify that the EMI gasket is installed on the bottom case in the back of the drive bay.1.
Important: The optical drive must be installed so that it does not sit on top of the gasket. Insert the drive toward the logic board so that the gasket is pushed behind the drive.
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Removing a Stuck Disc from an Optical Drive

Important: This procedure applies only to 9.5-mm and 12.7-mm slot-load optical drives.
Remove the four identical screws that hold the top cover to the drive. 1.
Slide the top cover approximately 2 mm toward the back of the drive. Lift up the top cover 2. to remove it.
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Check the placement of the disc. It is either clamped to the turntable at the center of the 3. disc, or it is wedged under one or more posts at the outer edge of the disc.
Holding the edge of the disc, press on the center clamp or hold the posts steady as you 4. remove the disc from the drive.
Important: Do not touch any key components located near the disc.
Replace the top cover on the drive so that the small hooks on the top cover t into the slots 5.
on the bottom cover. Then slide the top cover into place.
Replace the four screws.6.
Install the replacement drive, and reassemble and test the computer.7.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Optical Drive 78
Page 79

Backup Battery

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade tool
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y Top Cas e Optical Driv e
Part Location
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Backup Battery 79
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Procedure
First note the cable routing. There is a notch in the logic board that allows you to tuck the 1. cable underneath it and next to the frame during replacement.
Disconnect the JST cable connector from the logic board. 2. Note: See the following section for information on inserting and removing JST connectors.
To remove the battery, use a black stick to pry it away from the bottom case, taking care to 3. preserve the adhesive backing for reuse if necessary.
To install the replacement backup battery, remove the adhesive protector and press the 4.
backup battery into place in the same location from which the rst battery was removed.
Connect the JST cable connector to the logic board. Check that it is fully seated. 5.
Quick Test: Check the time. Remove all power, both AC and battery, and wait 10 minutes. Boot the system again to check that the system continues to keep accurate time.
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JST Connectors
To disconnect a JST connector in the MacBook Pro, rmly hold the cables near the connector 1. and lift directly up out of the enclosure with a gentle tug.
Note: The following tools may also be helpful in safely disconnecting and lifting JST connectors.
To reseat or reconnect a JST connector, use a black stick or your nger to snap it into place, 2. making sure the connector sits perfectly at and ush with the sides of the connector well.
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Note: Given a very keen eye, one way to distinguish the right side up of a JST connector is by
looking for the word ‘push’ on the top side of the connector, as shown below.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Backup Battery 82
Page 83

Left Ambient Light Sensor

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
#0 Phillips screwdriver (magnetized) Torx T6 screwdriver (magnetized)
Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade tool
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y Top Cas e
Part Location
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Ambient Light Sensors 83
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Procedure
The left ambient light sensor is on a separate circuit board mounted with adhesive to the left speaker. Its dust cover is secured with one screw.
The right ambient light sensor is built into the main logic board. Its dust cover is adhered to the underside of the top case (see Right ALS Cover).
To remove the left ambient light sensor board:
Remove the Phillips screw and dust cover. 1.
Disconnect the 2. JST connector on the logic board to the right of the fan.
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Peel the ALS cable away from the fan, taking care to preserve the adhesive for future use.3.
Pry up the sensor board to release its adhesive and remove it from the speaker.4.
Reinstallation Note: When reinstalling the dust cover, carefully blow o any dust and gently
clean the lens with a soft, lint-free cloth if necessary.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Ambient Light Sensors 85
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Right ALS Dust Cover

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade tool
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y Top Cas e
Part Location
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Ambient Light Sensors 86
Page 87
Procedure
The right ambient light sensor is part of the logic board. Its dust cover is now mounted on the underside of the top case.
The left sensor is on a circuit board mounted to the left speaker (see Left Ambient Light Sensor).
To replace the right sensor’s dust cover:
Peel away dust cover from the top case and transfer as necessary.1.
Reinstallation Note: When reinstalling the dust cover, carefully blow o any dust and gently
clean the lens with a soft, lint-free cloth if necessary.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Ambient Light Sensors 87
Page 88

Fans

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
Torx T6 screwdriver (magnetized)• Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade tool
Razor knife Kapton tape (922-1731) (0.5-inch x 12-yard roll)
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y Top Cas e
Part Location
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Fans 88
Page 89

To remove the left fan:

Remove three Torx T6 screws. Note the black screw in the right lower corner. 1.
.
Disconnect the three cable connectors, the lower two being 2. JST connectors.
The top connector must be guided out laterally to the left with a black stick as shown below.3.
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Carefully peel the ex cable o the fan cover. 4.
Lift the fan up and to the left, carefully peeling the tape away from the heatsink, preserving it 5.
for reuse. Work the fan’s upper left screw bracket out from under the left speaker bracket.
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To remove the right fan:

Remove the three Torx T6 screws shown below.1.
Remove any Kapton tape, if necessary, and disconnect the fan cable 2. JST connector shown below by holding the cable just next to the connector and gently tugging straight up.
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Lift the fan up and to the right, carefully peeling the tape away from the heatsink, preserving 3. the tape for reuse during reinstallation.
Replacement Notes
After replacing either fan, position the tape directly over the heatsink ns 1. in the fan’s previous position and press rmly along the length of the tape to seal it to the heatsink.
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If needed, apply Kapton tape to secure the iSight camera and inverter cable bundle (top) and 2. the ambient light sensor cable bundle (bottom) to the left fan.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Fans 93
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Logic Board

Tools
This procedure requires the following tools:
#0 Phillips screwdriver (magnetized) Torx T6 screwdriver (magnetized)
Black stick (nylon probe 922-5065) or other non-conductive nylon or plastic at-blade tool
Multi-compartment screw tray (such as a plastic ice cube tray) Kapton tape (922-1731) (0.5-inch x 12-yard roll) Thermal grease (922-7144) Gasket kit (076-1238) Alcohol pads
Preliminary Steps
Before you begin, remove the following:
Batter y Memor y Top Cas e Fan s Optical Driv e
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Logic Board 94
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Part Location
Procedure
Disconnect the cables shown, unscrewing the Torx T6 screw to release the LVDS cable.1.
Note: Unlike the photo below, the hard drive need not be removed to take out the logic
board. If the hard drive is still installed, be sure to disconnect its ex cable as well.
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2. Tape the thermal sensor cable to the display assembly to avoid trapping it under the logic board and forgetting it during reassembly.
Remove nine silver Torx T6 screws and one black Phillips screw just above the right side of 3. the battery bay.
Note: The screw on the upper right corner of the logic board is actually underneath the LVDS cable (for which a longer Torx T6 screw was removed in step 1 of this procedure).
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Warning: Do NOT allow the logic board to ex at any time. Flexing the board can crack 4.
solder joints to components. Give special attention at the narrow neck of the fan cutout.
From the left side of the board, slowly begin to lift the board, avoiding any exing, until the 5. thermal material on the three chips underneath releases. Do not lift the board further.
Note: The thermal material should easily release. If not, verify that all screws and connectors have been removed.
Remove the connector under the board, shown.6.
Remove the logic board.7.
Warning: Hold the board vertically along the wide sides. Do not hold the board horizontally, by the ends, or by the neck at the fan cutout, as the board’s weight can cause excessive ex.
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Replacement Procedure
Verify that the EMI gaskets are in place along the port openings on the bottom case.1.
If the existing logic board was removed to facilitate another procedure and will be 2. reinstalled, the old thermal material must be removed from both the logic board and the heatsink, and new thermal material will be applied. See step 5 for reapplication instructions.
Use a black stick and alcohol wipes to clean the old thermal grease from the three chips.
Important: Use extreme care not to damage the chip or logic board components.
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Install EMI gaskets and tape on the ports from the gasket kit (076-1261).3.
\
Transfer the logic board sleeves (922-7538) to the replacement board, if needed.
Transfer the cosmetic shield, if needed.
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Use a black stick to remove as much old thermal grease as possible from the heatsink.4.
Use an alcohol wipe to clean the mating surfaces.5.
6. Note the contents of the syringe of the replacement thermal grease.
Important: One syringe (922-7144) contains 0.3 to 0.35 cubic centimeters (cc) of thermal
grease. That is enough for 0.1 to 0.12 cc of grease per chip for up to three chips. Use one-third of the syringe contents per chip. Using a felt-tip pen, mark the 1/3 points on the syringe
before applying the rst dab.
Important: Avoid unnecessary contact with new thermal material, as dirt and body oils reduce the material’s conductivity.
MacBook Pro (15-inch 2.4/2.2GHz) Take Apart — Logic Board 100
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