3D Robotics IRIS Plus Upgrade Kit User Manual

Upgrade Kit Instructions
Thank you for purchasing an IRIS+ Upgrade Kit. You’re now ready to transform your IRIS into an IRIS+.
You will need:
-Phillips-head screwdriver
-2 mm hex key
-Glue for foam, preferably hot glue but Gorilla Glue or RC modeling adhesive will also work.
-Small, flat, prying tool for removing DF13 connectors.
IRIS+ Upgrade Kit Instructions vB | ©3D Robotics, Inc. | 10 November 2014
1
1 Disassemble
Remove the screws in the bottom shell and inside the battery compartment.
For more specific instructions on removing the replacing the shells, visit 3dr.com/iris/info.
In the next step, you’ll temporarily disconnect some of the cables connecting to Pixhawk:
DF13 connectors are difficult to remove without damaging the ports. Use the prying tool to lift the edges of the connector gently away from the port. Once the connector is separated from the port by a few millimeters, it will be easy to remove from the port. Do not pull on the wires or use heavy pressure when handling connectors. A video demonstrating DF13 connector removal can be found under the Upgrade Kit section at 3dr.com/iris/info.
Turn IRIS over, and remove the top shell. If there are any cables held together with zip ties, carefully cut the zip ties. Remove all cables from the pins at the end of Pixhawk, and disconnect the cables from the following Pixhawk ports:
-GPS
-POWER
-TELEM
-BUZZER
-SWITCH
-USB
On the I2C splitter (rectangular module with a row of five connectors), find the cable that connects the splitter to Pixhawk’s I2C port. Leave that cable in place, and disconnect all other cables from the I2C module.
You should now be able to pull the top shell away from the bottom shell completely. Set it aside for now.
Remove the three white, plastic screws holding the telemetry radio in place.
2
Remove the four screws holding each arm in place.
Turn IRIS over, and remove the bottom shell. You should be able to pull the arms partially away from the body of IRIS.
Now you’ll need to disconnect the two plates by tearing the foam. Try to separate the foam from the plate with the ESC as cleanly as possible at the surface of that plate so there is minimal foam attached to the smaller plate.
Once the smaller, bottom plate is detached from the foam. Turn it over and remove the four screws attaching the ESC to the plate. You should now be able to remove the ESC and the arms entirely from the plate.
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