3B Scientific Low Temperature Stirling Engine Kit User Manual
3B SCIENTIFIC3B SCIENTIFIC
3B SCIENTIFIC®
3B SCIENTIFIC3B SCIENTIFIC
Low-temperature Stirling motor kit U10061
Instruction sheet
08/05 ALF
PHYSICSPHYSICS
PHYSICS
PHYSICSPHYSICS
cm
bo bp
bq
br
bs
bt
cp
bu
co
bn
bm
bl
9
cn
8
7
6
5
4
cr
cl
cq
ct
cs
1
2
3
1 Top plate
2 Wall of housing
3 Bottom plate
4 Displacer
5 Displacer socket
6 Displacer rod
7 Main piston
8 Main piston socket
9 Main cylinder
bl Bracket
bm Short connecting rod
bn Long connecting rod
bo Crank face
bp Insert
bq Crank disc
br Bearing socket
bs Flywheel
bt Gaskets (2x)
bu Ball bearings (4x)
cl Crankshaft
cm Crankshaft journal
5
cn Cylinder rods 1x8 (2x)
co Cylinder head screw M3x8
cp Countersunk screw M2x3
cq Threaded rod M2x5
cr Washers (6x)
cs Wide clamping discs (3x)
ct Narrow clamping disc
The low-temperature Stirling motor demonstrates how a
Stirling motor operates as well as the principles of its
design.
1. Description, technical data
The low-temperature Stirling motor is set in motion even
by the heat of the human hand. It only requires a temperature difference of 5°C between the ground and the
top plate. The main cylinder is made of precision glass.
The displacer cylinder and the flywheel are transparent
acrylic so that the motion of the main piston, the displacer piston and the crank drive can all be seen clearly.
The crankshaft and connecting rods have miniature precision bearings to minimise friction. Due to the matt black
coating of the top plate, the Stirling motor can also be
operated using solar power.
Speed: 80 rpm approx. at ∆T 10ºC
Flywheel: 110 mm Ø
Dimensions: 138 mm x 110 mm Ø
2. Assembly instructions
2.1 Finishing
• All components with burred edges should have their
burrs filed off using a flat or triangular file.
• File down the surfaces on any workpieces if desired.
2.2. Assembly
2.2.1. Making a permanent assembly
• We recommend use of “UHU plus endfest 300”, “UHU
plus schnellfest” or similar 2-component epoxy resin
adhesive. In order to prevent damage to the coating
of the top plate, avoid any contact with solvents.
Owing to the differing expansion coefficients of the
materials, do not allow any of the components to
increase temperature during the hardening of the
adhesive. Aluminium will contract much more on
cooling than the glass cylinder, thus creating tension
in the glass leading to a decrease in the internal diameter of the main cylinder or possibly even causing
it to break. Glueing together to make the connections
should generally be performed at a consistent temperature of approximately 20°C.
1. Glue the main cylinder 9 to the bracket bl at room
temperature, then glue it to the 1 top plate.
2. Fasten the bearings bu inside the bearing socket br.
Force the ball race bu onto the crankshaft cl and
apply a thin adhesive film to three points on its outer
surface. Then push the ball race bu into one of the
two recesses of the bearing socket br. Any surplus
adhesive should be removed with a cloth soaked in
white spirit. Always wipe towards the outside when
doing this to prevent adhesive penetrating into the
bearings. From the other side push another ball race
bu onto the crankshaft cl and proceed as before. To
achieve best alignment of the two ball races bu leave
the crankshaft cl in the same position until the
adhesive has hardened.
3. Glue the insert bp into its recess in the crank disc bq.
Make sure that both surfaces being adhered are flush
together. There is a marking on the outer surface of
the insert bp. Align this marking along the transverse
bore of the crank disc bq .
4. Next, glue the crank shaft journal cm into the bore of
the insert bp.
5. Glue cylinder rods cn into the bore of the displacer
rod 6 and the main piston 7. No adhesive residue
whatever may remain on the running surfaces of the
cylinder rods cn. Push the cylinder rods into the
relevant bores till about 2 mm protrudes and apply a
small amount of adhesive to the protruding end. Then
push the cylinder rod cn into its correct position and
remove any surplus adhesive as above. Make sure
the cylinder rod cn of the main piston 7 is glued so
that it is slightly recessed so that it does not damage
the running surface of the main cylinder 9 later on.
6. When glueing the displacer socket 5 into the bore
of the displacer 4 proceed as follows. Push the
displacer rod 6 into the main piston’s socket 8
then push the main piston 7 into the main cylinder
9. Next, attach the displacer socket 5 to the dis-
placer rod 6. Glue this into the bore of the displacer
4 and position the complete module on the under-
side of the displacer 4 so that the displacer 4 just
touches the top plate 1. Leave these components
in this position until the adhesive has fully hardened
to ensure that the displacer 4 and top plate 1
remain parallel.
7. Finally glue the bearing socket br into the bore of
the bracket bl.
2.2.2. Making a temporary assembly
1. Press the ball race bu into the bore of the connecting
rods bm and bn. All the bearings are supplied without lubricant. To ensure that the bearings bu run
smoothly always use the supplied, semi-spherical
washers cr in the assembly. The spherical side of the
washers cr should face the ball bearing bu.
2. Push the first washer cr, the long connecting rod
bn, the second washer cr and the face of the crank
bo onto the crankshaft journal cm.The small mark-
ing on the edge of the crank face bo should be to the
right of the crankshaft journal cm as seen in the
diagram.
3. Push the first wide clamping disc cs, the long connecting rod bn and the second wide clamping disc
cs onto the cylinder rod cn of the main piston 7,
having lubricated it slightly first. The diameter of the
6
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