DUMMY RADIAL
ENGINE
ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING
INSTRUCTIONS
The Top Flite
®
Dummy Radial Engine (hereafter
referred to as
Radial
) is patterned after the Pratt &
Whitney radial engines that powered numerous air-
craft from the
Golden Age
of aviation. Modeled to
fit the Top Flite F4U Corsair and AT-6 Texan, this
1/7th scale Radial will fit any cowls with a frontal
opening of 6-1/2" to 7". Not only does the Radial
enhance scale appearance, but it also serves as
an air-flow baffle for more efficient engine cooling.
WARNING
Do not attempt to start your engine unless the
Radial has been modified to permit cooling airflow
to the engine! See text for more information.
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED (Not Included)
Hobby Knife with # 11 Blade
Hand Drill or Dremel
®
Moto-Tool
®
1/16" and 1/8" Drill Bits
CA - Medium (Great Planes
®
Pro
™
recommended)
1/8" x 8" x 8" Lite-ply
Round File or 1/2" Drum Sander
Small Paint Brushes
Paint (see painting instructions)
Scroll or Coping Saw
Rubber Cement or Spray Adhesive
100 & 240 Grit Sandpaper
ASSEMBLY
The following procedure covers the assembly and modifi-
cations required for a flying model. Static display models
require no modification.
❑ 1.
Measure the inside diameter of your cowl about
1-1/2" from the frontal opening and match this size to the
concentric circles on the Baffle Template.
The correct size
for the Top Flite Corsair and AT-6 is the innermost circle.
❑ 3.
Score around the inside corner of the Radial with a
hobby knife. Flex the plastic around the rim until it breaks off.
❑ 4. Cut away the prop shaft opening from the center of
the Radial. Smooth the edges with a round file or
drum sander.
❑ 5. Tape the Radial to the ply baffle, then test fit the
assembly inside the cowl. If necessary, sand the ply baffle
for a better fit. The forward edge of the Crankcase should
be flush with the outside forward edge of the cowl.
❑ 6. Drill a 1/8" hole through each of the
indented marks
around the perimeter of the Crankcase and also through
the
bottom
of each Rocker Arm Cover. Drill a 1/16" hole
through the
dimple
near the top of each Cylinder and also
into the Ignition Harness Ring between the Push
Rod holes.
❑ 7. Use 240 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the full length
of the 3 plastic tubes for better glue and paint adhesion.
Cut 18 pieces 1-1/4" long to use for the Push Rod Tubes.
❑ 8. Sand the 16" wire, then cut 9 pieces 1-1/2" long to
use for the Ignition Leads. Make a 90 degree bend 3/8"
from one end. Randomly bend the
long
section to
simulate flexible wires.
Note:
As you will probably be removing at least one
Cylinder when you use the Radial as an air baffle, you
need not install Push Rod Tubes and an Ignition Lead in
one Cylinder. Complete all 9 cylinders if you will only be
using the Radial for static display.
Painting Hint:
Most modelers find that it’s easier to paint
this type of structure before final assembly. If this is your
preference, skip down to the section on Painting then
return to step 9 when you are ready to proceed.
❑ 9. Insert the Push Rod Tubes into the Rocker Arm
Covers and the crankcase as shown in the photo. They
should protrude inside the Radial about 3/32" at each
end of each piece. Don’t worry about gluing them yet.
❑ 10. Insert the Ignition Leads into the Crankcase and
the Cylinders.
❑ 11. Turn the Radial over and apply a drop of CA to
both ends of all Push Rod Tubes and Ignition Leads.
(From the inside)
❑ 12. (Flight Modification) Trim away one of the
Cylinders but leave excess backing material in place.
This material will be trimmed off during final fitting to
the engine.
❑ 13. Glue the Radial to the ply baffle with CA. Be sure
to align the “removed Cylinder” with the opening in the
baffle. Hint:
Roughen the back surface of the Radial with
coarse sandpaper for a better glue bond.
1/16" HolesCrankcase Rocker Arm Cover1/8" Holes
Top Flite Models
3002 N. Apollo, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
(217) 398-8970
productsupport@top-flite.com
© Copyright 2004 RADIALP1
❑ 2. Trace or photocopy the Baffle Template, then glue
the copy to a sheet of 1/8" lite-ply (not included). Cut
around the circumference and the engine opening with a
scroll or coping saw.