Top Flite Piper Arrow II Assembly Instructions Manual

WARRANTY:Top Flite Models guarantees this kit

to be free from defects in both material and

workmanship at the date of purchase. This

warranty does not cover any component parts

damaged by use or modification. In no case shall

Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the

purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reser ves the right

to change or modify this warranty without notice.In

that Top Flite has no control ov er the final assemb ly

or material used for final assembly, no liability shall

be assumed nor accepted for any damage

resulting from the use by the user of the final user-

assembled product. By the act of using the user-

assembled product, the user accepts all resulting

liability.If the buyer is not prepared to accept the

liability associated with the use of this product,

the buyer is advised to return this kit

immediately in new and unused condition to

the place of purchase. To make a warranty claim

send the defective part or item to Hobby Services

at the address below.

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1

Champaign IL 61822

USA

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping

address, as much contact information as possible

(daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail

address), a detailed description of the problem and

a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt

of the package the problem will be evaluated as

quickly as possible.

Top Flite Models • Champaign, Illinois • Telephone [phone] ext. 5 • Fax [phone] • [e-mail]

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

ARO6PO4 V1.0

Entire Contents © Copyright 2004

Wingspan: 81 in [2060mm]

Wing Area: 1089 sq in [70.2 dm

2

]

Weight: 12–14 lb [5440–6350 g]

Wing Loading: 25–30 oz/sq ft [76–92 g/dm

2

]

Fuselage Length: 61.5 in [1560mm]

Radio: 6-channel, 1 high-torque servo, 5-7

standard servos, 1 micro servo (optional)

Engine: .61–.91 cu in [10.0–15.0cc] two-stroke,

.91 cu in [15.0cc] four-stroke

Top Flite Gold Edition Piper Arrow II Assembly Instructions

™

USA

MADE IN

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION....................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS......................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ............................4

Radio Equipment................................................4

Engine Recommendations.................................4

Landing Gear Options ........................................4

Cockpit & Pilots ..................................................5

Trim Scheme/Finishing Supplies........................5

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED .........................5

Hardware and Accessories................................5

Adhesives and Building Supplies.......................5

Optional Supplies and Tools...............................6

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ..........................6

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS................................7

DIE-CUT PATTERNS ........................................8&9

PREP ARE T O BUILD...........................................10

Build the Tail Surfaces ......................................10

Build the Vertical Stabilizer (Fin)......................10

Finish the Fin & Rudder...................................13

Build the Horizontal Stabilizer (Stab)...............14

BUILD THE WING................................................18

Make the Wing Skins.......................................18

Build the Center Panel.....................................18

Build the Outer Panels.....................................21

Fit the Fixed Landing Gear..............................23

Fit the Retractable Landing Gear.....................23

Finish Fitting the Landing Gear........................24

Sheet the Bottom of the Wing..........................25

Mount the Hatches and Landing Gear.............26

Build the Ailerons.............................................28

Build the Flaps.................................................29

Hinge the Flaps ................................................31

Mount the Flap and Aileron Servos .................32

Join the Wing...................................................33

BUILD THE FUSELAGE......................................34

Frame the Bottom of the Fuselage..................34

Sheet the Bottom of the Fuselage...................37

Mount the Fixed Nose Gear.............................39

Fit the Retractable Nose Gear.........................39

Mount the Engine .............................................40

Connect the Nose Steering and Throttle .........40

Cover the Horizontal Stabilizer.........................41

Mount the Horizontal Stabilizer........................43

Mount the Vertical Stabilizer (Fin)....................45

Sheet the Aft End of the Fuselage...................47

Build the Dorsal Fin..........................................48

Finish the Top of the Fuselage.........................48

Mount the Cabin Top ........................................49

Fit the Tail Cone...............................................51

FINAL CONSTRUCTION.....................................53

Mount the Cowl................................................53

Mount the Wing ................................................56

Build the Belly Pan...........................................57

FINISH THE MODEL ...........................................58

Covering...........................................................58

Painting............................................................61

Final Assembly and Systems Hookup.............62

Mount the Pilots...............................................66

Glue on the External Stringers ............................67

Apply the Decals..................................................67

Add Panel Lines ...................................................67

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY .....................67

Center the Controls & Check the Directions ....67

Set the Control Throws....................................68

Balance the Model (C.G.) ................................69

Balance the Model Laterally.............................69

PREFLIGHT.........................................................69

Identify Your Model...........................................69

Charge the Batteries........................................69

Balance Propellers...........................................70

Ground Check..................................................70

Range Check ...................................................70

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .....................70

AMA SAFETY CODE..........................................71

IMAA SAFETY CODE.........................................71

CHECK LIST........................................................72

FLYING ................................................................72

Takeoff..............................................................73

Flight ................................................................73

Landing ............................................................73

Fuselage/Wing Plan.........................center section

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Top

Flite

®

Gold Edition

Piper Arrow II. One of the unique

features of this Top Flite

Gold

kit is the scale

corrugations on the vertical and horizontal stab and on

all of the control surfaces. The corrugations are

optional, but add much to the scale effect of this model.

While this kit can be assembled by intermediate

builders, note that the corrugations take additional time,

skill and patience.Read through the manual to see ho w

the corrugations are made and how they are covered

before making a decision. Should you decide not to

build your Arrow with corrugated control surfaces

simply replace the die-cut, corrugated skins with

regular sheeting (not included).

Another option is to build the plane with fixed or

retractable landing gear. This kit was designed to fit

Robart retracts, so should you decide to install another

brand any modifications required would be up to you.

Flaps are another option. The manual is primarily

“geared” toward building the Arrow with flaps, but

instructions are also provided for building the model

without flaps.

Lastly, the cabin top is vacuum-formed from a clear,

PETG plastic sheet.The window outlines are molded

in.Finishing the cabin top requires masking, sanding

and painting around the windows. Since the cabin

top is molded from PETG, it may be painted with Top

Flite LustreKote

®

.

The level of scale detail you wish to achieve is up to

you. Simply by following the instructions you’ll end up

with a model that very much represents a Piper Arrow

II. But you could also “go all-out” by adding even more

scale details to make a model that would be a

contender in any level of scale competition.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections

to the Piper Arrow visit the Top Flite web site at

www
.top-flite.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then

select the Piper Arrow. If there is new technical

information or changes to this model a “tech notice”bo x

will appear in the upper left corner of the page.

- 2 -

AMA

We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model

Aeronautics) and a local R/C club. The AMA is the

governing body of model aviation and membership

is required to fly at AMA clubs. Though joining the

AMA provides many benefits, one of the primary

reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not

limited to flying at contests or on the club field. It

even applies to flying at public demonstrations and

air shows. Failure to comply with the Safety Code

(excerpts printed in the back of the manual) may

endanger insurance coverage. Additionally, training

programs and instructors are available at AMA club

sites to help you get started the right way.There are

over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone

number below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

IMPORTANT!!!

Two of the most important things you can do to

preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to

avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying

near or over groups of people.

IMAA

The Top Flite Piper Arrow II is an excellent scale

model and is eligible to fly in IMAA ev ents .The IMAA

(International Miniature Aircraft Association) is an

organization that promotes non-competitive flying of

giant-scale models. If you plan to attend an IMAA

event, obtain a copy of the IMAA Safety Code by

contacting the IMAA at the address or telephone

number below, or by logging on to their web site at:

www.fly-imaa.org/imaa/sanction.html

IMAA

205 S. Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

[phone]

Scale Competition

The outline of this Top Flite Gold Edition Piper Arrow

II was derived from three-view drawings and photos.

The scale is 1:4.6 which was calculated from

averaging the scale wingspan and the scale length.

Though the Top FlitePiper Arrow II may not hav e the

same level of detail as an “all-out” scratch-built

competition model, it is still a relatively detailed scale

model and is therefore ideal for competing in R/C

Sport Scale (Sportsman and Expert), R/C

Fun Scale

(Division 1 or Division 2), or even the Team Scale

classes in AMA competition (we receive many

favorable reports of Top Flite models in scale

competition!).In Fun Scale, to receive the five points

for scale documentation, the only proof required that

a full size aircraft of this type did exist in your

paint/markings scheme is a single sheet such as a

kit box cover from a plastic model, a photo, or a

profile painting, etc. If the photo is in black and white

other written documentation of color must be

provided. Contact the AMA for a rule book with full

details. Note: The propeller on the model on the kit

box cover is oversize for the engine, but provides a

scale appearance. It is a Master Airscrew 13 x 8

three-blade (MASQ1938). The model could actually

be flown with a three-blade prop, but it must be the

correct size to match your engine.

If you would like photos of the full-size Piper Arrow

for scale documentation, or if you would like to study

the photos to add more scale details, photo packs

are available from:

Bob’s Aircraft Documentation

3114 Y uk on Ave

Costa Mesa, CA 92626

Telephone: [phone]

Fax:[phone]

e-mail: www.bobsairdoc.com

1. Your Piper Arrow should not be considered a toy,

but rather a sophisticated, working model that

functions very much like a full-size airplane.

Because of its performance capabilities, the Piper

Arrow, if not assembled and operated correctly,

could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators

and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the

instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as

doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.

In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly

from the photos. In those instances the written

instructions should be considered as correct.

3. You must tak e time to build straight,trueand strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-

class condition, and a correctly sized engine and

components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the

building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other

components so that the model operates correctly on

the ground and in the air.

6. You must check the operation of the model before

every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and

that the model has remained structurally sound. Be

sure to check clevises or other connectors often and

replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not

flown this type of model before, we recommend that

you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in

your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a

member of a club, your local hobby shop has

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLO W THESE IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

- 3 -

- 4 -

information about clubs in your area whose

membership includes experienced pilots.

8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed

normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely

high stress flying, such as racing, or if an engine

larger than one in the recommended range is used,

the modeler is responsible for taking steps to

reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting

hardware more suitable for the increased stress.

Remember: Take your time and follow the

instructions to end up with a well-built model

that is straight and true.

Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit

with the Parts List and die drawings and note any

missing parts. Also inspect all parts to make sure

they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are

missing, broken or defective, or if you have any

questions about building or flying this airplane,

please contact Top Flite at the address or telephone

number below. If requesting replacement parts,

please provide the full kit name (Top Flite Gold

Edition Piper Arrow) and the part numbers as listed

in the Parts List.

Top Flite Product Support

3002 N Apollo Drive Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Telephone: [phone]

Fax:[phone]

E-mail: [e-mail].

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

This is a partial list of items required to finish the

Piper Arrow that may require planning or decision

making before starting to build. Order numbers are

provided in parentheses.

RADIO EQUIPMENT

Even though the Piper Arrow is giant-scale, it’s

basically a “.60-size” model. Therefore, the Arrow

doesn’t require any specialized, heavy-duty radio

gear.It may be flown safely with standard ser vos on

all of the flying surfaces except for the full-flying

stabilizer. The stabilizer should be controlled by a

ball bearing servo with at least 50 oz.-in. of torque.

Servo extensions and Y-harnesses will also be

required. Following is a list of servos and other gear

used to build the Piper Arrow as shown in this

manual. If you set up your model differently, other

radio gear may be required. Note: All of the part

numbers provided for R/C gear are for Futaba.

®

❏ (1) Stabilizer servo with at least 50 oz.-in. of

torque (Futaba S9001 or similar—FUTM0075)

❏ (5) Standard servos (1-nose wheel steering,

1-throttle, 2-ailerons, 1-rudder)

❏ (2) Hobbico 24"[610mm] servo extensions (for

ailerons—HCAM2721)

❏ (3) Hobbico 12"[305mm] servo extensions (for

stabilizer and rudder servos and coming from

receiver to hook up ailerons —HCAM2711)

❏ (1) Futaba dual extension cord (for ailerons—

FUTM4130)

A Great Planes Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set

was also used (GPMM1000)

The following items will also be required if

building optional flaps:

❏ (2) Standard servos

❏ (1) Hobbico Y-harness (HCAM2751)

❏ (1) 12"[305mm] servo extension (from receiver

to flap Y-harness—HCAM2711)

If installing retractable landing gear this

additional radio equipment will also be required.

❏ (1) Micro servo

❏ (1) 6"[150mm] servo extension (HCAM2701)

A receiver battery pack with a minimum of 1,000mAh

is also required. (Futaba HR4RB, FUTM1380)

ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS

The engine size recommendations for the Piper Arrow

are straightforward.See the recommendations on the

cover of this manual.Keep in mind that this is a scale

model of a four-seat, general aviation aircraft, not an

aerobatic air show plane. It is intended to fly “on the

wing” and will do so easily with a .61 two-stroke or a

.91 four-stroke.Do not overpower this aircraft. If using

an O.S.

®

Max SF or SX engine the Top Flite in-cowl

muffler may be used:

❏ TOPQ7920 Top Flite header for in-cowl muffler

(For O.S. Max engines)

❏ TOPQ7917 Top Flite In-cowl muffler

LANDING GEAR OPTIONS

The Piper Arrow requires two 3"[75mm] main wheels

and one 2-1/2"[64mm] nose wheel. If building the

Arrow with fixed landing gear, any brand of the

appropriate-size wheels is suitable. With retracts,

Robart wheels are recommended as they are narrow

and fit better into the wing. Note that a Robart 2-

1/4"[57mm] nose wheel is recommended as it will fit

on the nose strut better than a 2-1/2"[64mm] wheel

(the Robart 2-1/4"[57mm] wheel is actually closer to

2-3/8"[60mm], so it is only 1/8"[3mm] smaller than

recommended). Following are the part numbers for

the recommended wheels:

❏ Great Planes 3"[75mm] main wheels

(GPMQ4225)

❏ Great Planes 2-1/2"[64mm] nose wheel

(GPMQ4223)

-or-

❏ Robart 3"[75mm] main wheels (ROBQ1514)

❏ Robart 2-1/4"[57mm] nose wheel (ROBQ1511)

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you

with a top quality kit and great instructions, but

ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished

model depends on how you build it;therefore, we

cannot in any way guarantee the performance of

your completed model, and no representations

are expressed or implied as to the performance or

safety of your completed model.

The following items were also used to assemble

the Piper Arrow with retractable landing gear:

❏ Robart #530ARW pneumatic retractable

landing gear kit for Piper Arrow (ROBQ1621)

❏ Robart #188VR variable rate air control kit

(ROBQ2302, includes air tank, variable rate

valve, lines, fittings)

❏ (1 pkg.) Robart #190 Air Line Quick

Disconnects (ROBQ2395)

❏ Robart hand pump with gauge (or suitable

replacement) (ROBQ2363)

❏ Micro servo and 6"[150mm] servo extension

(previously listed under “Radio Equipment”)

❏ (2 pkgs.) Great Planes 0-80 (1/16”) threaded

ball link ball (GPMQ3842)

❏ Optional: 3/4 oz. [20g] glass cloth to reinforce

wing sheeting inside wheel wells (HCAR5000)

COCKPIT AND PILOTS

A scale cockpit kit is also available for this model

(TOPQ8414). It includes the floor, sides and back,

instrument panel, dashboard and four seats. Even

though the cockpit kit can’t be seen in great detail

unless you are up close or have the cabin top

removed, it adds MUCH to the overall scale effect

and really “finishes” the model. Installation

instructions are also included with the cockpit kit.

Two Williams Brother’s #62600 Sportsman 3"[75mm]

(1/4-scale) pilots (WBRQ2626) were used. Since the

pilots are not full-body, a platform was made from

3/32"[2.4mm] hard balsa to support them. Acrylic

paint found at craft stores and hobb y shops was used

for painting the pilots.Acrylic paint is favored because

it is easy to use and washes with water.

TRIM SCHEME/FINISHING SUPPLIES

The trim scheme on the model on the kit box cover

was inspired by a full-size Piper Arrow. All of the

wood surfaces were covered with Top Flite

MonoKote

®

. The cabin top, cowl and tail cone were

painted with Top Flite LustreK ote

®

.Modelers who are

experienced in the application of iron-on coverings

will find this trim scheme of medium difficulty. If a

simpler or different trim scheme is desired this one

could be used as a reference, or just follow the trim

scheme of another full-size subject. Following are

the part numbers of the MonoKote, LustreKote and

covering tools used.

COVERING

❏ (2) 6’ [1.8m] rolls White MonoKote (TOPQ0204)

❏ (1) 6’ [1.8m] roll Metallic red MonoKote

(TOPQ0405)

❏ (1) 6’ [1.8m] roll Metallic gold MonoKote

(TOPQ0404)

PAINT

❏ (2) White primer LustreKote (TOPR7801)

❏ (1) Jet White LustreKote (TOPR7204)

❏ (1) Metallic red LustreKote (TOPR7405)

❏ (1) Crystal clear-gloss LustreKote (TOPR7200)

❏1 roll of 1/4"[6.4mm] Metallic gold striping tape was

also used on the cowl and tail cone (GPMQ1530)

COVERING T OOLS

❏ Top Flite MonoKote trim seal iron (TOPR2200)

❏ 21

st

Century sealing iron (COVR2700)

❏ 21

st

Century iron cover (COVR2702)

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES

In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions Y ou

Must Make” section, follo wing is the list of hardw are

and accessories required to finish the Piper Arrow.

Order numbers are provided in parentheses.

❏ Propeller and spare propellers suitable for

your engine

❏ 14 oz. [420cc] fuel tank (GPMQ4106)

❏ Fuel line (3’ [910mm], GPMQ4131)

❏ 2-1/2"[65mm] spinner (white-GPMQ4520, black-

GPMQ4521, red-GPMQ4522)

-or-

❏ Three-blade aluminum True Turn spinner

(TRUQ2514)

❏ Acrylic paint and paint brushes for painting pilot

(found at craft stores)

❏ Auto body filler (Bondo or similar)

❏ R/C foam padding (1/4"[6mm] HCAQ1000,

1/2"[13mm] HCAQ1050)

❏ Sullivan #521 Kevlar pull-pull control cable set

(for nose wheel steering, SULQ3121)

❏ If building flaps: (1 pkg. of 6) Robart Super

Hinge Points (ROBQ2509)

ADHESIVES AND BUILDING SUPPLIES

In addition to common modeling tools (screw drivers,

hobby knives, drill, etc.), this is the “shor t list” of the

most important items required to build the Piper

Arrow.

We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and

Epoxy glue.

❏ 2 oz. [60g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6003)

❏ 2 oz. [60g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6009)

❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thick Pro CA- (GPMR6013)

❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)

❏ Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)

❏ Pro Aliphatic resin (2 oz. [60g], GPMR6160)

❏ NHP balsa filler (NHPR2211)

❏ Plan protector (GPMR6167) or wax paper

❏ Drill bits: 1/16"[1.6mm], 5/64"[2mm],

3/32"[2.4mm], 7/64"[2.8mm], 1/8"[3.2mm],

9/64"[3.6mm], 5/32"[4mm], 11/64"[4.4mm],

3/16"[4.8mm], 13/64"[5.2mm], 7/32"[5.6mm],

15/64 [6mm], 1/4"[6.4mm], 17/64"[6.7mm],

9/32"[7.1mm]

❏ 8-32 tap and drill set (GPMR8103)

❏ 1/4-20 tap and drill set (GPMR8105)

❏ Tap handle (GPMR8120)

❏ Small metal file

❏ Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)

❏ Silver solder w/flux (GPMR8070)

❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)

❏ #11 blades (100-pack, HCAR0311)

- 5 -

❏ Single-edge razor blades (100-pack, HCAR0312)

❏ Small T-pins (100, HCAR5100)

❏ Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150)

❏ Large T-pins (100, HCAR5200)

❏ Sanding tools and sandpaper assortment (

see

Easy-Touch Bar Sander section)

❏ 16"x 48"[410 x 1220mm] Great Planes Pro

Building Board (GPMR6950)

❏ Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic

parts (HCAR0667)

OPTIONAL SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the

manual that will help you build the Piper Arrow.

❏ 2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)

❏ 4 oz. [113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR634)

❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)

❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)

❏ 3M 75 repositionable spray adhesive

(MMMR1900)

❏ Kyosho

®

masking film (KYOR1040)

❏ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)

❏ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)

❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)

❏ Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)

❏ Metal Template Set (30/60/90 and 45 degree

triangles, HCAR0500)

❏ 36"metal ruler (HCAR0475)

❏ Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402)

❏ 24"x 36"[460 x 910mm] Builder’s Cutting Mat

(HCAR0456)

❏ 16"x 48"[410 x 1220mm] building board

(GPMR6950)

❏ Fuel filler valve for glow fuel (GPMQ4160)

❏Hobbico Duster

™

can of compressed air (HCAR5500)

❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)

❏ Milled fiberglass (GPMR6165)

❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)

❏ Threadlocker thread locking cement

(GPMR6060)

❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)

❏ K & S #801 Kevlar thread (for stab alignment)

❏ Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)

❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel

❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200)

❏ Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)

❏ Hobby Heat

™

Micro Torch II (HCAR0755)

❏ Dead Center

™

Engine Mount Hole Locator

(GPMR8130)

❏ AccuThrow

™

Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405)

❏ Precision Hinge Marking Tool (GPMR4005)

❏Slot Machine

™

hinge slotting tool (110V, GPMR4010)

❏ CG Machine™ (GPMR2400)

❏ Laser incidence meter (GPMR4020)

❏ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700)

EASY-TOUCH

™

BAR SANDER

A flat, durable, easy-to-handle sanding tool is a

necessity for building a well-finished model. Great

Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar

Sanders and replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive-

backed Sandpaper.While building the Piper Arrow,

two 5-1/2"[140mm] Bar Sanders and two

11"[280mm] Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit and

150-grit Adhesive-backed Sandpaper were used.

Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders

and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:

5-1/2"[140mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6169)

11"[280mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6170)

22"[560mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6172)

33"[840mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6174)

44"[1120mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6176)

11"[280mm] Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12’ [3.66m] roll of Adhesive-backed 80-grit

sandpaper (GPMR6180)

150-grit (GPMR6183)

180-grit (GPMR6184)

220-grit (GPMR6185)

Assortment pack of 5-1/2"[140mm] strips

(GPMR6189)

We also use Top Flite 320-grit (T OPR8030, 4 sheets)

and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry

sandpaper for finish sanding.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

·

Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either

30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy

or

6-minute epoxy.

When 30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly

recommended that you use only 30-minute (or 45-

minute) epoxy, because you will need the working

time and/or the additional strength.

·

Photos and sketches are placed before the step

they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in

following steps to get another view of the same parts.

·

Not all die-cut parts have a name, or their complete

name stamped on them, so refer to the die drawings

on pages 8 & 9 for identification. When it’s time to

remove the parts from their die sheets, if they are

difficult to remove, do not f orce them out.Instead, use

a sharp #11 blade to carefully cut the part from the

sheet, then lightly sand the edges to remove any

slivers or irregularities. Save some of the larger

scraps of wood.

- 6 -

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

Fuse = Fuselage

Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer

Fin = Vertical Fin

LE = Leading Edge

TE = Trailing Edge

LG = Landing Gear

" = Inches

mm = millimeters

During construction there will be several

occasions where epoxy cleanup will be

necessary .Instead of wasting whole paper to wels ,

stack three or four paper towels on top of each

other and cut them into small squares. This will

conserve paper towels and the little squares are

easier to use. For epoxy clean up dampen the

squares with denatured alcohol.

Plastic bags filled with lead shot are

recommended for building weights. They assume

the shape of curved surfaces and apply uniform

pressure. Shot can be purchased at sporting

goods stores where hunting supplies are sold. #6

shot is recommended.One 25 lb.[11kg] bag costs

about twenty dollars.Small, sealable food storage

bags can be used to hold the shot.Tape the bags

shut for security. Each bag holds about two to

three pounds. Twelve to fifteen bags is adequate

for this project.

1/64" = .4mm

1/32" = .8mm

1/16" = 1.6mm

3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm

5/32" = 4mm

3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm

2" = 50.8mm

3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm

12" = 304.8mm

15" = 381mm

18" = 457.2mm

21" = 533.4mm

24" = 609.6mm

30" = 762mm

36" = 914.4mm

METRIC CONVERSION

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

- 7 -

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160

Metric Scale

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6"

Inch Scale

- 8 -

DIE-CUT DRAWINGS

- 9 -

DIE-CUT DRAWINGS

PREP ARE T O BUILD

1. If you’ve already purchased the retractable landing

gear, or as soon as you do, take the air lines out of the

package.Unravel the lines and hang them somewhere

in your shop.When it’s time to install the lines they’ll be

nice and straight and they’ll be easier to work with.

2. Remove all the parts from the box.Use a ballpoint

pen (not a felt-tip pen) to lightly write the name or

size on each piece so it can be identified later. Use

the

die-cut patterns

on pages 8 & 9 to identify and

mark the die-cut parts before removing them from

their die sheets. Many of the parts already have

numbers stamped on them, but in some cases the

numbers are located beside the part or only on the

die drawings in the manual. If a part is difficult to

remove from its die sheet, don’t force it out. Instead,

cut around the part with a hobby knife and a #11

blade.After removing the parts from their die sheets,

lightly sand the edges to remove slivers or die-

cutting irregularities. As you proceed, it’s not

necessary to save every scrap of wood, but some of

the larger pieces of wood should be saved.

3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin,

wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top

food storage bags.

BUILD THE T AIL SURF ACES

BUILD THE VERTICAL STABILIZER (FIN)

❏ 1. Unroll the fuselage plan, then re-roll it inside out

so it will lay flat.Cut out the fin plan, then position it ov er

your flat building board and cover it with Great Planes

Plan Protector or wax paper so glue will not adhere.

Note: If you plan to build your Arrow with any kind of a

scale lighting system, now is the time to drill or cut any

holes in the ribs necessary to accommodate the wiring.

❏ 2. Fit the die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa fin ribs R1

through R6 into the notches of the die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm]

balsa fin trailing edge and the die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm]

balsa rudder sub leading edge. Note that all of the

notches are slightly oversize so the parts can fit at an

angle.Also note that a portion of the fin trailing edge and

rudder sub LE protrude below the assembly, but will be

trimmed off later.Make certain the parts are accurately

positioned over the plan and hold them to the building

board with T-pins.

❏ 3. Make sure all the jig tabs are fully contacting

the building board, then glue the assembly together.

❏ 4. Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to

sand a bevel on the leading edge of all the ribs. Do

one rib at a time starting with r ib R6 at the top. Hold

the rib with your fingers and draw the bar sander

down past, resting it against the other ribs to get the

correct angle.

❏ 5. Center the 3/32"x 1/2"x 15"[2.4 x 12.7 x

380mm] balsa fin sub leading edge vertically on the

front of the ribs, then glue it into position.

❏6. Use a razor plane and/or a bar sander to shape

the top (left side) of the sub leading edges and the

trailing edge so they are even with the ribs.

Note: Make sure none of the T-pins protrude above

any of the parts so they won’t catch.

- 10 -

❏ 7. Glue the die-cut 3/32” [2.4mm] balsa rudder

rib R1A into position. If necessary, sand R1A to

blend with the rest of the structure.

Now it’s time to mak e the balsa skins f or sheeting the

fin and rudder.

❏8. Glue together both sets of die-cut 1/16"[1.6mm]

balsa parts that make up the fin skins. CA could be

used, but aliphatic resin (white glue) is preferred as it

allows time for positioning and is easier to sand.Use

masking tape and weights to hold the parts together

while the glue dries and press down along the glue

joint to make sure the seams are flat.

❏ 9. Cut the two corner pieces and the leading edge

pieces as shown on the plan from a 1/16"x 3"x 30"[1.6 x

75 x 760mm] balsa sheet to complete the skins and glue

them into position.

❏ 10. After the glue dries examine both skins to see

which side will be the right and which side will be the

left.Arrange the skins so the best sides will be on the

outside. Use 180-grit sandpaper to carefully sand

both sides of the skins flat. Note: The insides don’t

have to be as “flat” as the outsides—use care not to

over thin the skins by sanding too much.

❏ 11. Carefully cut out the corr ugations. A single-

edge razor blade works well until you get to the

smaller ones near the top of the skin where a #11

blade will have to be used.

❏ 12. Make a thin sanding tool by using spray

adhesive to bond a piece of medium-grit sandpaper

to a strip of leftover 1/16"[1.6mm] plywood. Use the

sanding tool to true the edges of the corrugations.

Hold the skin down near the edges of the

corrugations with a ruler or something similar so you

do not damage the skin while sanding.

❏ 13. Cut the corrugation filler strips from 1/16"x

1/4"x 30"[1.6 x 6.4 x 760mm] balsa sticks and glue

them to the inside of the fin skins. The best way to

align the strips is with a straightedge—start at the top

and work your way do wn.Once a filler strip has been

positioned, use medium CA to glue it into position.

Using thin CA is not recommended because it may

not create a strong enough bond to hold the filler

strips to the skin when bending it to the ribs.

Note: Should you decide to build your Arrow

without the corrugations, replace the die-cut skins

supplied with this kit with soft to medium density

1/16"[1.6mm] balsa sheeting (not supplied).

- 11 -

❏14. Prepare the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa rudder

skins by cutting out the corrugations and gluing on the

corrugation fillers the same as the fin skins.

❏ 15. Remove most of the T-pins holding the fin

framework to the building board, but leave a few of

them in R1 and R6 to hold the structure down. Make

sure none of the pins will be concealed under the

skin after it has been glued into position.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 16. Test fit the left fin skin to the framework and

see how it lines up. The bottom of the skin should

align with the dashed line indicating the bottom of the

skin on the plan. After you see how the skin fits, glue

it into position with medium or thick CA.

❏ 17. Glue the left rudder skin into position the

same way.

❏ 18. Take out any remaining T-pins and remove the

fin/rudder assembly from the building board.

❏19. T rim off the jig tabs with a hobby knif e , then use

a razor plane followed by a bar sander with 80-grit

sandpaper to trim the leading and trailing edges even

with the ribs. Using the ribs in the rudder as a guide,

bevel the trailing edge of the left skin to accommodate

the right skin as shown in the sketch and on the cross

section of the fin drawing on the plan.

❏ 20. Referring to the plan, cut the hinge blocks

from a 1/2"x 1/2"x 24"[12.7 x 12.7 x 610mm] balsa

stick. Trim the blocks so that when in position, they

will be 1/16"[1.6mm] below the surface of the ribs to

accommodate the 1/16"[1.6mm] balsa corrugation

filler strips on the right side of the fin and rudder

skins. Glue the hinge blocks into position.

Refer to this photo for steps 22 through 26.

❏ 21. Test fit, then glue the rudder and fin skin into

position on the right side.Align them the same as was

done for the skins on the left side of the assembly.

❏ 22. Sand the leading edge of the skins even with

the sub leading edge. Trim the bottom of the skins

and the spars even with rib R1 and R1A.

- 12 -

❏ 23. Cut the fin leading edge from the 1/4"x 3/4"x

30"[6.4 x 19 x 760mm] balsa stick, then glue it into

position. Save the remainder of the stick for the

rudder leading edge. Sand the top of the fin leading

edge even with R6 and sand the sides of the leading

edge even with both sides of the fin.

❏ 24. Use a small razor saw to separate the rudder

from the fin.Sand the fin sheeting and rib stubs even

with the fin trailing edge and sand the rudder

sheeting and the rib stubs even with the rudder sub

leading edge.

❏ 25. Cut the rudder leading edge from remainder

of the 1/4"x 3/4"[6.4 x 19mm] balsa stick used for the

fin leading edge, then glue it into position. Sand the

top, bottom and sides of the rudder leading edge

even with the rudder, but do not sand the “V” on the

leading edge until instructed to do so.

FINISH THE FIN AND RUDDER

❏ 1. Taking accurate measurements, stick T-pins into

the middle of the fin trailing edge near both ends.Place

a straightedge against the pins and use a fine-point

ballpoint pen to mark a centerline all the way down.

❏ 2. If you have a Great Planes Slot Machine , use it

to cut the hinge slots where shown on the plan on the

centerline you marked. If you do not have a Slot

Machine, use a #11 hobby blade to cut the hinge

slots. Start by making a small slit. Then, working in

small increments, go a little deeper moving the blade

back and forth. Note that it’s the back of the blade

that does the work.

❏ 3. Use the same procedure to mark the centerline

and cut the hinge slots in the rudder.

❏ 4. Cut three 3/4"x 1"[19 x 25mm] hinges from the

CA hinge strip. Snip off the corners so they go in

easier.Temporarily join the rudder to the fin with the

hinges. Use masking tape to securely hold the

rudder to the fin so it will not move.

❏ 5. Cut the fin and rudder tip from a 1/2"x 1"x

24"[13 x 25 x 610mm] balsa stick, then glue them to

the top of the fin and rudder. Be cer tain to leave an

approximately 3/32"[2.4mm] gap between the fin and

rudder tips.

- 13 -

❏6. Use a razor plane and/or a hobby knife f ollo wed

by a bar sander to shape the fin and rudder tip to

match the fin and rudder, but do not round the top

until the next step.

❏ 7. Now go ahead and round the tips of the fin and

rudder by sanding.

❏ 8. Remove the tape and separate the fin from the

rudder. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint pen to

mark lines on both sides of the rudder 1/4"[6mm]

back from the leading edge. Using the lines and the

centerline as a guide, shape the leading edge of the

rudder to a “V” shape to allow for control throw.Also

shape the front of the rudder tip as shown.

❏ 9. Test fit the rudder to the fin with the hinges.

Move the rudder back and forth to make sure it

moves freely. Make any adjustments necessary.

❏10. Use a putty knife or the included 1/16"[1.6mm]

die-cut plywood applicator to apply lightweight balsa

filler to partially fill the corrugations. Try to be

consistent and fill the corrugations about half-way as

shown in the sketch.

❏ 11. After the filler has dr ied, sand the surface of

the skins and down into the corrugations.

Set the fin and rudder aside while you build the stab.

BUILD THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER (STAB)

Don’t forget, this is a one-piece, “flying”

stabilizer and has no elevators. Let’s start by

making the top and bottom stab skins…

❏ 1. Cut a 1-3/8"[35mm] strip from a 1/16"x 3"x

30"[1.6 x 75 x 760mm] balsa sheet to be used as the

trailing edge portion of one of the die-cut

1/16"[1.6mm] balsa stab skins. Use the remaining

1-5/8"[41mm] sheet to make the right and left

leading edge portions.

- 14 -

❏2. Repeat the previous step to make the leading and

trailing edge portions of the other stab skin. Glue the

sheets you just cut to the front and back of the stab

skins.Reminder: Aliphatic resin is recommended over

CA because it will allow time to position the sheets and

will be easier to sand after it dries.

❏3. While the glue on the stab skins is drying, make

up the ribs for the stab assembly by gluing a die-cut

1/8"[3.2mm] plywood rib doubler “S2C” to both

sides of four die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa stab ribs

S2. Glue one die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood rib

doubler “S2B” to one side of another stab rib S2

(make two of these, and be sure to make a right and

a left). Lastly, make two sets of root stab ribs by

gluing together two die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood

stab ribs S1. Note: If you forget which of the

doublers “B” are, they are the ones with the larger

hole for the brass tubing.

…Back to the stab skins…

❏4. After the glue on the stab skins has dried remove

the masking tape and sand both sides flat and even.

Cut the Stab Center Cutout Template from the plan

and use it to mark the cutout in the stab skins with a

ballpoint pen.Cut and remove the section of sheeting,

but do not cut directly on the line—leave some

additional material to allow for positioning.

❏ 5. Cut out the corrugations and tr ue the edges

with your sanding tool. Cut the corrugation fillers

from more 1/16"x 1/4"x 30"[1.6 x 6 x 760mm] balsa

sticks and glue them to the insides of the stab skins

the same as you did for the fin and rudder skins.

❏ 6. Cut the stabilizer control rod to a length of

6"[150mm] from a 4-40 x 12"[300mm] pushrod by

cutting off the threaded end. Discard the threaded

end (or keep it for your spare parts bin). Cut the

dowel spar to a length of 15-3/4"[400mm] from the

5/16"x 16"[8 x 405mm] hardwood dowel.Use a piece

of a paper towel or a tissue dampened with

denatured alcohol to clean any residual oil from the

control rod. Clean the inside and outside of the

11/32"x 6"[8.7 x 150mm] brass tube and the 3/8"x 1-

1/2"[9.5 x 38mm] brass tube as well.

❏ 7. Drill 3/32"[2.4mm] holes between the ends of

the die-cut slots in the plywood S1 Ribs to make slots

that will accommodate the stabilizer control rod.Also

drill 3/32"[2.4mm] holes through the punchmarks

through the ribs at the punchmarks in the B doublers.

- 15 -

❏ 8. Use 320-grit or 400-grit sandpaper to roughen

the outside of the 11/32"x 6"[8.7 x 150mm] brass

tube and the inside and outside of the 3/8"x 1-

1/2"[9.5 x 38mm] brass tube so glue will adhere.

❏ 9. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the dowel spar

and tubes together—both tubes should be centered

on the dowel. From now on this assembly will be

referred to as the stab spar.

Note: It may be necessary to sand down the dowel

to get it to fit into the 11/32" [8.7mm] brass tub.

❏ 10. Enlarge the holes in the nylon swivel clevis

with a #40 drill.

❏ 11. Slide the swivel clevis and two 3/32"[2.4mm]

wheel collars onto the 4-40 control rod. (The set

screws will be installed and tightened when finalizing

the radio setup after the model has been completed.)

Slide the bearings over the stab spar. Fit the ribs on

the pushrod and the stab spar.Working over the stab

plan, fit the assembly to the die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm]

balsa sub leading edge and the die-cut

3/32"[2.4mm] balsa sub trailing edge. Join the rest

of the ribs to the assembly.

❏ 12. Hold the stab assembly to the building board

with T-pins.Glue the ribs to the sub leading edge and

to the sub trailing edge.

❏ 13. Securely glue the stab spar and the stabilizer

control rod to the ribs.

❏ 14. Use a razor plane followed by a bar sander to

shape the top of the sub leading and trailing edges

even with the tops of the ribs to accommodate the

sheeting. Make sure none of the T-pins are in the way.

❏ 15. Sand the trailing edge of the plywood S1 ribs

to accommodate the balsa stab trailing edge.

❏ 16. Remove any T-pins from the stabilizer

assembly that will be concealed under the stab skin

when you glue it into position. Glue one of the stab

skins to the top of the stab. Thick or medium CA

could be used, but aliphatic resin is recommended

because it will allow more working time for

positioning the skin. Use T-pins and weights to

securely hold the skin down until the glue dries.

❏ 17. Remove the stab from the building board.The

same as you did with the vertical stabilizer, trim the

bottom of the sub trailing edge and the bottom of the

sub leading edge even with the ribs to accommodate

the bottom sheeting.

- 16 -

❏ 18. Glue the 1/8"x 1/4"x 30"[3.2 x 6.4 x 760mm]

balsa stabilizer trailing edge into position. Cut the

stab center filler block from the 1/2"x 1"x 24"[12.7

x 25 x 610mm] balsa stick (first used for the fin and

rudder tips). Shape the block to fit between the S1

ribs, but don’t worry about rounding the inside edge

at this time. Glue the block into position.

❏ 19. Shape the stabilizer trailing edge, the stab

center filler block and the top sheeting to match the

shape of the ribs.

❏ 20. Prepare to glue on the bottom stab skin.Test

fit the skin and check the alignment. Make any

adjustments where necessary for a good fit.The skin

will be glued on with medium or thick CA, so you’ll

want to get it positioned correctly and work quickly.

❏ 21. Apply thick or medium CA to the ribs and

spars and to the trailing edge of the top skin where it

contacts the bottom skin. Working quickly, position

the bottom skin.Carefully press the skin into position

without introducing any twist. Apply pressure to the

trailing edge over your flat work surface. This will

ensure a straight and true trailing edge. Handle both

halves of the stab as though they were two separate

pieces—work on pressing down both halves of the

skin separately.

❏ 22. After the CA has hardened, trim the leading

edge and the tips of the skins even with the sub

leading edge and the ribs.

❏ 23. Round the stab center filler block and trim the

sheeting even with the S1 ribs.

❏ 24. Cut the stabilizer leading edge from a 1/4"x

1/2"x 30"[6.4 x 25 x 760mm] balsa stick, then glue it

into position. Shape the leading edge to match the

plan and sand it even with the tip ribs and the S1 ribs.

❏ 25. Cut the Stabilizer Tip T emplate from the plan

and use it to cut out two stabilizer tips from the 1"x

1-1/2"x 15"[25 x 38 x 380mm] balsa stick.

- 17 -

❏ 26. Mark a centerline around the tips, then glue

them into position. Using the centerlines as guides,

carve and sand the tips to match the stab, then round

to a finished shape.

❏ 27. The same as was done on the fin and rudder

corrugations, get out your putty knife and wood filler

and partially fill all of the corrugations on both sides

of the stab.Allow to dry, then sand.

BUILD THE WING

MAKE THE WING SKINS

❏ 1. Cut the wing center panel plan from the wing

plan.Cover the plan with Plan Protector or w ax paper

and place it over your flat building board.

❏ 2. Cut four 1/16"x 3"x 30"[1.6 x 75 x 760mm] balsa

sheets into twelve 3"x 10"[75 x 250mm] balsa sheets.

Set one of the 3"x 10"[75 x 250mm] sheets in your scrap

pile and cut another one of the 3"x 10"[75 x 250mm]

sheets into two 1-1/2"x 10"[38 x 250mm] sheets.

❏ 3. Glue the sheets together as shown in the

previous photo to make a forward and aft center

panel skin. Make two of each.

❏ 4. Sand the skins flat and even.

BUILD THE CENTER PANEL

❏ 1. Glue a die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood rib

doubler 1A to both sides of a die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm]

balsa rib W1.Make another assembly the same way.

❏ 2. Cut the balsa from between the dowel notches

in both rib assemblies.

❏ 3. Referring to the plan, glue the four die-cut

1/8"[3.2mm] plywood doublers W1B to the opposing

sides of the outer two ribs that will go on both ends

of the center panel.

- 18 -

❏ 4. Use a #11 blade to cut part way through both

sides of the ribs that go on the outer ends of the

center panel between the spar notches.

❏ 5. Glue together both die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm]

plywood center leading edges (CLE).

❏ 6. Cut the top and bottom spars for the center

panel to a length of 9-3/8"[240mm] from a 1/4"x 3/8"x

36"[6.4 x 9.5 x 910mm] basswood stick.

❏7. Join the ribs to the center leading edge, the die-

cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood center trailing edge, the

die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood center spar web and

the top and bottom main spars.

❏ 8. Position the assembly over the plan and hold it

down with weights and a few T-pins stuck into the jig

tabs and into the bottom of the ribs where they

contact the plan, just aft of the bottom spar.Use thin

and medium CA to glue all the parts together.When

gluing the outer ribs, use the die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm]

plywood dihedral gauge to make certain they are

set at the correct angle.

❏ 9. Mark the center of the hole to be drilled in one

of the 3/8"x 1"x 2-1/16"[9.5 x 25 x 52mm] basswood

wing bolt blocks 5/8"[16mm] from the end and

3/8"[10mm] from the front edge. Drill a #7 hole

through the block at the mark. Mark and drill the

other wing bolt block the same way. Use 30-minute

epoxy to glue the wing bolt blocks into position.

❏ 10. After the epoxy hardens, glue leftover

1/8"[3.2mm] balsa over the blocks to support the

sheeting around the holes that will be drilled later.

❏ 11. Remove the weights and carefully sand the

tops of the center leading edges and the center

trailing edge even with the tops of the ribs.

- 19 -

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 12. Both sides of the center panel will be sheeted

in two sections—with the seam centered over the

main spars. With the assembly accurately aligned

over the plan, start by sheeting the aft section with

one of the skins you prepared earlier. The skin

should be trimmed so that the aft edge aligns with

the trailing edge depicted on the plan and the front

edge aligns with the middle of the top spar.Glue the

skin into position—aliphatic resin is preferred as it

will allow time for alignment. Thick or medium CA

could be used, but you’ll have to work quickly.

❏ 13. Glue the forward sheet into position.

❏ 14. After the glue has dried, remove the center

panel plan from the building board. Carefully cut the

jig tabs from the bottom of the ribs.Sand all the parts

even with the ribs and bevel the underside of the

trailing edge of the top sheeting to the same angle as

the ribs to accommodate the bottom sheeting.

❏ 15. Using the holes in the wing bolt blocks as a

guide, drill a #7 hole through the top sheeting.

❏ 16. Drill 1/16"[1.6mm] pilot holes through both

punchmarks in the center leading edge. Enlarge the

holes for the wing dowels with a 1/4"[6.4mm] drill.

❏ 17. Glue pieces of leftover 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa

inside the wing where shown.Cut or drill 1/2"[13mm]

holes for the servo wires and air lines.

❏ 18. Cut the trailing edg e support from a 1/8"x

1/4"x 30"[3.2 x 6.4 x 760mm] balsa stick and glue it

into position.Bevel the support to match the shape of

the bottom of the wing.

❏ 19. Select the hardest of the remaining 1/16"x 3"x

30"[1.6 x 75 x 760mm] balsa sheets.F rom this sheet,

cut the shear webs as shown on the plan for the

front and back of the spars on both ends of the panel.

Glue the webs into position.

❏ 20. Sheet the bottom of the center panel in two

sections the same way you sheeted the top.

❏ 21. Trim the sheeting and spars even with the ribs

on both ends of the center panel. Sand the sheeting

flat and even.

❏ 22. Remember when you were instructed to cut

part way through the ribs on the ends of the panel?

Now is the time to cut the rest of the way through the

ribs along the lines and remove the material between

the spars.

Now the center panel is complete and may be set

aside while building the outer panels.

- 20 -

BUILD THE OUTER PANELS

We’ll start by making the wing skins. It’s a bit of an

undertaking to do them all at once, but then you

won’t have to make any more. Or you could just

make the skins as needed…

❏ 1. Glue together two 1/16"x 3"x 36"[1.6 x 75 x

910mm] balsa sheets to make one 6"x 36"[150 x

910mm] balsa outer wing skin. Make seven more

6"x 36"[150 x 910mm] outer skins the same way.

❏ 2. After the glue has dried, cut a 3/4" x 18"[19 x

460mm] strip from four of the skins.These will be the

skins used for sheeting the front of the wings. Glue

the cut off strips to each of the remaining four other

skins. These will be the skins used for sheeting the

rear of the wings.

❏ 3. After the glue has dried, sand the skins flat.

Remember, the insides of the skins don’t have to be

perfect—do not ov er thin the skins by sanding too much.

Start building the left panel so your progress

matches the photos the first time through.

❏❏4. Cut the left wing panel plan from the wing

plan and place it over your flat building board and

cover with Plan Protector so glue will not adhere.

❏❏5. The same as was done for the ribs on the

ends of the center panel, cut partway through both

sides of rib W2 between the spar notches.

❏❏6. Glue a die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood wing rib

W5A to W5 and glue a W4A to W4. Make sure you

glue the “A” ribs to the correct side for the wing

panel you are working on.

❏❏7. Glue together the two parts of the die-cut

1/8"[3.2mm] plywood spar webs.

❏❏8. Cut two 1/4"x 3/8"x 36"[6.4 x 9.5 x 910mm]

basswood sticks to the length shown on the plan for

the top and bottom spars.

❏❏9. Fit but do not glue all the wing ribs (W2

through W9) to the spar web. Fit but do not glue the

top and bottom spars, the die-cut 1/8"[2.4mm] balsa

aileron bay sub trailing edge, flap bay trailing

edge and the die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa outer sub

leading edge.

❏❏10. Pin five or six of the wing ribs down to the

building board through the low points just aft of the

bottom spar and through the jig tabs.

❏❏11. Use thin or medium CA to glue all

contacting parts together except for the top spar—do

not get any glue on the top spar. Use the dihedral

gauge to make sure rib W2 is set at the correct

angle. (The rib should lean slightly toward the wing

tip to accommodate the dihedral.)

- 21 -

❏❏12. Remove the top spar from the assembly.

Apply a bead of medium or thick CA along the top

edge of the spar web, then reposition the top spar.

Make sure W2 is still at the correct angle using the

dihedral gauge.

❏❏13. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa inner

sub leading edge into position.

❏❏14. Prepare the top of the wing for sheeting by

trimming and sanding the sub leading edges, the

aileron bay sub trailing edge, the flap bay trailing

edge and the top spar even with the tops of the ribs.

❏❏15. Trim one of the aft skins to fit the wing so

that the front edge aligns with the middle of the top

spar and the aft edge aligns with the middle of the

flap bay sub trailing edge. The skin should extend

1/16" [1.6mm] or so past the aileron bay sub trailing

edge to allow for trimming later.

❏❏16.Glue the aft skin into position.Aliphatic resin is

recommended as it will allow time for positioning. Use

weights and T-pins to hold the skin in position while the

glue dries.The rest of the trailing edge betw een the W9

ribs at the wing tip will be sheeted later.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏❏17. Cut and trim one of the forward skins to fit

the wing, then glue it into position. Use a piece of

leftover sheeting for the small cor ner at the leading

edge where the front sheet won’t reach.Use weights

and/or T-pins to hold the sheeting down while the

glue dries.

❏❏18. If not building flaps, test fit one of the die-cut

1/16" [1.6mm] balsa flap skins to the wing.The trailing

edge of the skin should extend 2-1/8" [54mm] aft of the

top wing skin.Cut out the slots for the corrugations and

trim the flap skin as necessary for a good fit, then glue

the skin into position. If you are building working flaps,

trim a 7/16" x 17-3/4" [11 x 435mm] strip from a piece

of leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] hard balsa.Glue the strip over

the flap bay trailing edge.

❏❏19.After the glue on all of the wing sheeting has

dried, remove the wing from the building board.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏❏20. Flip the wing over and lay it on your

workbench. Cut two 3-3/4" [95mm] long landing

gear rails from the 1/4" x 1/2" x 16" [6.4 x 13 x

410mm] basswood stick. Use 30-minute epoxy to

glue the rails into position. For additional strength,

milled glass fibers could be added to the mixture.

This will allow you to build up small fillets without the

glue dripping away from the joints.

❏❏21. While the epoxy on the landing gear rails is

hardening, make the servo hatch rails from a 1/4" x

3/8" x 36" [6.4 x 9.5 x 910mm] basswood stick and glue

them into position. Be certain to glue the aileron hatch

rails in the two inboard W8 ribs as shown on the plan.

Note: If not building working flaps, there is no need to

cut and glue in the servo rails for the flaps.

❏22. Return to step 4 and build the right wing panel.

Don't forget to build over the right wing plan.

- 22 -

FIT THE FIXED LANDING GEAR

Skip this section if installing retracts.

Note: Even though the landing gear assembly for the

left wing is shown in the photographs, both landing

gear assemblies could be installed simultaneously.

❏ 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue a 3/4" x 1" x 1" [19

x 25 x 25mm] basswood main landing gear torque

block to one end of a 1/2" x 1" x 2-11/16" [12.7 x 25

x 68mm] grooved bass w ood main landing gear rail.

After the epoxy has hardened drill a #11 (or 3/16"

[4.8mm]) hole in the middle of the groove through the

rail and the block 1/2" [13mm] from the end. Bevel

the opening of the hole to accommodate the bend in

the wire, then test fit the left landing gear wire.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 2. Glue together two die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood

fixed landing gear plates.Note that the grain direction

of each plate runs in the opposite direction. Use 30-

minute epoxy to glue the plates to the rail, but use care

not to inadvertently glue in the wire gear.

❏ 3. Secure the gear with two nylon landing gear

straps and four #2 x 1/2" [13mm] screws. Drill 1/16"

[1.6mm] holes for the screws.Don’t forget to harden

the threads with a few drops of thin CA.

❏ 4. Install the assembly in the wing between the

landing gear rails, then drill six 7/64" [2.8mm] holes

through the landing gear plates and the rails in the

wing for the mounting screws. Remove the landing

gear from the wing and enlarge the holes in the

landing gear plate with a 9/64" [3.6mm] or 5/32"

[4mm] drill. Mount the landing gear assembly to the

wing with six #6 x 1/2" [13mm] screws.

FIT THE RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR

Skip this section if installing fixed landing gear.

❏ 1. Remove the partial cutout in rib 3 to

accommodate the wheel.

❏ 2.Test fit the landing gear into the rail. If the fitting

for the air line on the side of the air cylinder prevents

fitting the retract, the cylinder may be rotated so the

fitting is facing at a downward angle.Then the retract

unit should fit between the rails.A small corner of the

aft rail will have to be trimmed to accommodate the

oleo strut.

❏ 3. Center the landing gear in the rails from side-to-

side. Mark the center of the four mounting holes on

the rail. Drill 7/64" [6.7mm] holes through the rails at

the marks for the mounting screws.Mount the retract

to the rail with the #6 x 1/2" [13mm] screws that

came with the retract.

❏ 4. Fit a piece of 3/16" [4.8mm] brass tubing into

the strut where the axle goes. Place a straightedge

on the wing parallel with the spar.Adjust the strut so

the tubing is parallel with the straightedge and

tighten the strut.

❏ 5. Cut the axle to the correct length and mount a

3" [75mm] wheel to the strut.

❏ 6. Retract the gear into the wing. Trim rib R3 as

necessary so the wheel will fully retract.

❏ 7. Remove the retract unit from the wing. Add

several drops of thin CA to the scre w holes to harden

the threads.

- 23 -

FINISH FITTING THE LANDING GEAR

Even though retractable landing gear are shown

in the photos, this section applies both to fixed

and retractable landing gear.

❏ 1. Cut the landing gear rail shear webs from the

remainder of the 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 75 x 760mm]

balsa sheet used for the shear webs for the center

panel. Glue the shear webs into position.

❏ 2. Deter mine how close you can position a piece

of leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa across the rails to the

retract unit while still allowing the unit to be removed

from the wing. This piece of balsa will support the

sheeting. Glue the suppor t into position.

❏ 3. Build a

box

around the retract mount with

leftover balsa strips.Sand the edges of the box even

with the contour of the ribs. After the bottom of the

wing has been sheeted and the opening has been

cut for the retract, the opening will be nice and neat

and the sheeting will be supported.

❏ 4. Optional: For a durable, finished appearance,

the top sheeting inside the wing over the wheel

openings can be coated with lightweight (3/4 oz.)

fiberglass cloth and resin.When sanded and painted,

this will make the inside of the wheel wells fuel and

weather proof and look great. First, cut four strips of

cloth (two for each wing) to fit between the ribs, then

lay into place.Use a soft brush to coat the cloth with

finishing resin or 30-minute epoxy. Before it thickens,

use a business card to lightly squeegee excess resin

from the cloth.This will remove wrinkles and bubbles

making the cloth lay flat. After the epoxy has fully

hardened, lightly sand with 400-grit sandpaper. Now

the wheel wells may be painted. An airbrush will

provide the most ev en coverage and allow you to get

paint into all of the little corners without over spraying

the rest. See page 61 on how to spray LustreKote

®

through an airbrush. Note: Should you decide to add

the cloth later, be certain to do so BEFORE covering

the model. Otherwise, epoxy and paint will soak into

the sheeting and show through the covering.

If you will be “glassing”and painting the inside of

the wheel wells, get the other wing panel to this

same stage of completion. That way both wheel

wells can be treated at the same time.

- 24 -