Top Flite Piper Arrow II Assembly Instructions Manual

WARRANTY:Top Flite Models guarantees this kit

to be free from defects in both material and

workmanship at the date of purchase. This

warranty does not cover any component parts

damaged by use or modification. In no case shall

Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the

purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reser ves the right

to change or modify this warranty without notice.In

that Top Flite has no control ov er the final assemb ly

or material used for final assembly, no liability shall

be assumed nor accepted for any damage

resulting from the use by the user of the final user-

assembled product. By the act of using the user-

assembled product, the user accepts all resulting

liability.If the buyer is not prepared to accept the

liability associated with the use of this product,

the buyer is advised to return this kit

immediately in new and unused condition to

the place of purchase. To make a warranty claim

send the defective part or item to Hobby Services

at the address below.

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1

Champaign IL 61822

USA

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping

address, as much contact information as possible

(daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail

address), a detailed description of the problem and

a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt

of the package the problem will be evaluated as

quickly as possible.

Top Flite Models • Champaign, Illinois • Telephone [phone] ext. 5 • Fax [phone] • [e-mail]

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

ARO6PO4 V1.0

Entire Contents © Copyright 2004

Wingspan: 81 in [2060mm]

Wing Area: 1089 sq in [70.2 dm

2

]

Weight: 12–14 lb [5440–6350 g]

Wing Loading: 25–30 oz/sq ft [76–92 g/dm

2

]

Fuselage Length: 61.5 in [1560mm]

Radio: 6-channel, 1 high-torque servo, 5-7

standard servos, 1 micro servo (optional)

Engine: .61–.91 cu in [10.0–15.0cc] two-stroke,

.91 cu in [15.0cc] four-stroke

Top Flite Gold Edition Piper Arrow II Assembly Instructions

™

USA

MADE IN

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION....................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS......................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ............................4

Radio Equipment................................................4

Engine Recommendations.................................4

Landing Gear Options ........................................4

Cockpit & Pilots ..................................................5

Trim Scheme/Finishing Supplies........................5

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED .........................5

Hardware and Accessories................................5

Adhesives and Building Supplies.......................5

Optional Supplies and Tools...............................6

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ..........................6

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS................................7

DIE-CUT PATTERNS ........................................8&9

PREP ARE T O BUILD...........................................10

Build the Tail Surfaces ......................................10

Build the Vertical Stabilizer (Fin)......................10

Finish the Fin & Rudder...................................13

Build the Horizontal Stabilizer (Stab)...............14

BUILD THE WING................................................18

Make the Wing Skins.......................................18

Build the Center Panel.....................................18

Build the Outer Panels.....................................21

Fit the Fixed Landing Gear..............................23

Fit the Retractable Landing Gear.....................23

Finish Fitting the Landing Gear........................24

Sheet the Bottom of the Wing..........................25

Mount the Hatches and Landing Gear.............26

Build the Ailerons.............................................28

Build the Flaps.................................................29

Hinge the Flaps ................................................31

Mount the Flap and Aileron Servos .................32

Join the Wing...................................................33

BUILD THE FUSELAGE......................................34

Frame the Bottom of the Fuselage..................34

Sheet the Bottom of the Fuselage...................37

Mount the Fixed Nose Gear.............................39

Fit the Retractable Nose Gear.........................39

Mount the Engine .............................................40

Connect the Nose Steering and Throttle .........40

Cover the Horizontal Stabilizer.........................41

Mount the Horizontal Stabilizer........................43

Mount the Vertical Stabilizer (Fin)....................45

Sheet the Aft End of the Fuselage...................47

Build the Dorsal Fin..........................................48

Finish the Top of the Fuselage.........................48

Mount the Cabin Top ........................................49

Fit the Tail Cone...............................................51

FINAL CONSTRUCTION.....................................53

Mount the Cowl................................................53

Mount the Wing ................................................56

Build the Belly Pan...........................................57

FINISH THE MODEL ...........................................58

Covering...........................................................58

Painting............................................................61

Final Assembly and Systems Hookup.............62

Mount the Pilots...............................................66

Glue on the External Stringers ............................67

Apply the Decals..................................................67

Add Panel Lines ...................................................67

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY .....................67

Center the Controls & Check the Directions ....67

Set the Control Throws....................................68

Balance the Model (C.G.) ................................69

Balance the Model Laterally.............................69

PREFLIGHT.........................................................69

Identify Your Model...........................................69

Charge the Batteries........................................69

Balance Propellers...........................................70

Ground Check..................................................70

Range Check ...................................................70

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .....................70

AMA SAFETY CODE..........................................71

IMAA SAFETY CODE.........................................71

CHECK LIST........................................................72

FLYING ................................................................72

Takeoff..............................................................73

Flight ................................................................73

Landing ............................................................73

Fuselage/Wing Plan.........................center section

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Top

Flite

®

Gold Edition

Piper Arrow II. One of the unique

features of this Top Flite

Gold

kit is the scale

corrugations on the vertical and horizontal stab and on

all of the control surfaces. The corrugations are

optional, but add much to the scale effect of this model.

While this kit can be assembled by intermediate

builders, note that the corrugations take additional time,

skill and patience.Read through the manual to see ho w

the corrugations are made and how they are covered

before making a decision. Should you decide not to

build your Arrow with corrugated control surfaces

simply replace the die-cut, corrugated skins with

regular sheeting (not included).

Another option is to build the plane with fixed or

retractable landing gear. This kit was designed to fit

Robart retracts, so should you decide to install another

brand any modifications required would be up to you.

Flaps are another option. The manual is primarily

“geared” toward building the Arrow with flaps, but

instructions are also provided for building the model

without flaps.

Lastly, the cabin top is vacuum-formed from a clear,

PETG plastic sheet.The window outlines are molded

in.Finishing the cabin top requires masking, sanding

and painting around the windows. Since the cabin

top is molded from PETG, it may be painted with Top

Flite LustreKote

®

.

The level of scale detail you wish to achieve is up to

you. Simply by following the instructions you’ll end up

with a model that very much represents a Piper Arrow

II. But you could also “go all-out” by adding even more

scale details to make a model that would be a

contender in any level of scale competition.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections

to the Piper Arrow visit the Top Flite web site at

www
.top-flite.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then

select the Piper Arrow. If there is new technical

information or changes to this model a “tech notice”bo x

will appear in the upper left corner of the page.

- 2 -

AMA

We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model

Aeronautics) and a local R/C club. The AMA is the

governing body of model aviation and membership

is required to fly at AMA clubs. Though joining the

AMA provides many benefits, one of the primary

reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not

limited to flying at contests or on the club field. It

even applies to flying at public demonstrations and

air shows. Failure to comply with the Safety Code

(excerpts printed in the back of the manual) may

endanger insurance coverage. Additionally, training

programs and instructors are available at AMA club

sites to help you get started the right way.There are

over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone

number below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

IMPORTANT!!!

Two of the most important things you can do to

preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to

avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying

near or over groups of people.

IMAA

The Top Flite Piper Arrow II is an excellent scale

model and is eligible to fly in IMAA ev ents .The IMAA

(International Miniature Aircraft Association) is an

organization that promotes non-competitive flying of

giant-scale models. If you plan to attend an IMAA

event, obtain a copy of the IMAA Safety Code by

contacting the IMAA at the address or telephone

number below, or by logging on to their web site at:

www.fly-imaa.org/imaa/sanction.html

IMAA

205 S. Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

[phone]

Scale Competition

The outline of this Top Flite Gold Edition Piper Arrow

II was derived from three-view drawings and photos.

The scale is 1:4.6 which was calculated from

averaging the scale wingspan and the scale length.

Though the Top FlitePiper Arrow II may not hav e the

same level of detail as an “all-out” scratch-built

competition model, it is still a relatively detailed scale

model and is therefore ideal for competing in R/C

Sport Scale (Sportsman and Expert), R/C

Fun Scale

(Division 1 or Division 2), or even the Team Scale

classes in AMA competition (we receive many

favorable reports of Top Flite models in scale

competition!).In Fun Scale, to receive the five points

for scale documentation, the only proof required that

a full size aircraft of this type did exist in your

paint/markings scheme is a single sheet such as a

kit box cover from a plastic model, a photo, or a

profile painting, etc. If the photo is in black and white

other written documentation of color must be

provided. Contact the AMA for a rule book with full

details. Note: The propeller on the model on the kit

box cover is oversize for the engine, but provides a

scale appearance. It is a Master Airscrew 13 x 8

three-blade (MASQ1938). The model could actually

be flown with a three-blade prop, but it must be the

correct size to match your engine.

If you would like photos of the full-size Piper Arrow

for scale documentation, or if you would like to study

the photos to add more scale details, photo packs

are available from:

Bob’s Aircraft Documentation

3114 Y uk on Ave

Costa Mesa, CA 92626

Telephone: [phone]

Fax:[phone]

e-mail: www.bobsairdoc.com

1. Your Piper Arrow should not be considered a toy,

but rather a sophisticated, working model that

functions very much like a full-size airplane.

Because of its performance capabilities, the Piper

Arrow, if not assembled and operated correctly,

could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators

and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the

instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as

doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.

In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly

from the photos. In those instances the written

instructions should be considered as correct.

3. You must tak e time to build straight,trueand strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-

class condition, and a correctly sized engine and

components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the

building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other

components so that the model operates correctly on

the ground and in the air.

6. You must check the operation of the model before

every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and

that the model has remained structurally sound. Be

sure to check clevises or other connectors often and

replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not

flown this type of model before, we recommend that

you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in

your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a

member of a club, your local hobby shop has

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLO W THESE IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

- 3 -

- 4 -

information about clubs in your area whose

membership includes experienced pilots.

8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed

normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely

high stress flying, such as racing, or if an engine

larger than one in the recommended range is used,

the modeler is responsible for taking steps to

reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting

hardware more suitable for the increased stress.

Remember: Take your time and follow the

instructions to end up with a well-built model

that is straight and true.

Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit

with the Parts List and die drawings and note any

missing parts. Also inspect all parts to make sure

they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are

missing, broken or defective, or if you have any

questions about building or flying this airplane,

please contact Top Flite at the address or telephone

number below. If requesting replacement parts,

please provide the full kit name (Top Flite Gold

Edition Piper Arrow) and the part numbers as listed

in the Parts List.

Top Flite Product Support

3002 N Apollo Drive Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Telephone: [phone]

Fax:[phone]

E-mail: [e-mail].

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

This is a partial list of items required to finish the

Piper Arrow that may require planning or decision

making before starting to build. Order numbers are

provided in parentheses.

RADIO EQUIPMENT

Even though the Piper Arrow is giant-scale, it’s

basically a “.60-size” model. Therefore, the Arrow

doesn’t require any specialized, heavy-duty radio

gear.It may be flown safely with standard ser vos on

all of the flying surfaces except for the full-flying

stabilizer. The stabilizer should be controlled by a

ball bearing servo with at least 50 oz.-in. of torque.

Servo extensions and Y-harnesses will also be

required. Following is a list of servos and other gear

used to build the Piper Arrow as shown in this

manual. If you set up your model differently, other

radio gear may be required. Note: All of the part

numbers provided for R/C gear are for Futaba.

®

❏ (1) Stabilizer servo with at least 50 oz.-in. of

torque (Futaba S9001 or similar—FUTM0075)

❏ (5) Standard servos (1-nose wheel steering,

1-throttle, 2-ailerons, 1-rudder)

❏ (2) Hobbico 24"[610mm] servo extensions (for

ailerons—HCAM2721)

❏ (3) Hobbico 12"[305mm] servo extensions (for

stabilizer and rudder servos and coming from

receiver to hook up ailerons —HCAM2711)

❏ (1) Futaba dual extension cord (for ailerons—

FUTM4130)

A Great Planes Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set

was also used (GPMM1000)

The following items will also be required if

building optional flaps:

❏ (2) Standard servos

❏ (1) Hobbico Y-harness (HCAM2751)

❏ (1) 12"[305mm] servo extension (from receiver

to flap Y-harness—HCAM2711)

If installing retractable landing gear this

additional radio equipment will also be required.

❏ (1) Micro servo

❏ (1) 6"[150mm] servo extension (HCAM2701)

A receiver battery pack with a minimum of 1,000mAh

is also required. (Futaba HR4RB, FUTM1380)

ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS

The engine size recommendations for the Piper Arrow

are straightforward.See the recommendations on the

cover of this manual.Keep in mind that this is a scale

model of a four-seat, general aviation aircraft, not an

aerobatic air show plane. It is intended to fly “on the

wing” and will do so easily with a .61 two-stroke or a

.91 four-stroke.Do not overpower this aircraft. If using

an O.S.

®

Max SF or SX engine the Top Flite in-cowl

muffler may be used:

❏ TOPQ7920 Top Flite header for in-cowl muffler

(For O.S. Max engines)

❏ TOPQ7917 Top Flite In-cowl muffler

LANDING GEAR OPTIONS

The Piper Arrow requires two 3"[75mm] main wheels

and one 2-1/2"[64mm] nose wheel. If building the

Arrow with fixed landing gear, any brand of the

appropriate-size wheels is suitable. With retracts,

Robart wheels are recommended as they are narrow

and fit better into the wing. Note that a Robart 2-

1/4"[57mm] nose wheel is recommended as it will fit

on the nose strut better than a 2-1/2"[64mm] wheel

(the Robart 2-1/4"[57mm] wheel is actually closer to

2-3/8"[60mm], so it is only 1/8"[3mm] smaller than

recommended). Following are the part numbers for

the recommended wheels:

❏ Great Planes 3"[75mm] main wheels

(GPMQ4225)

❏ Great Planes 2-1/2"[64mm] nose wheel

(GPMQ4223)

-or-

❏ Robart 3"[75mm] main wheels (ROBQ1514)

❏ Robart 2-1/4"[57mm] nose wheel (ROBQ1511)

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you

with a top quality kit and great instructions, but

ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished

model depends on how you build it;therefore, we

cannot in any way guarantee the performance of

your completed model, and no representations

are expressed or implied as to the performance or

safety of your completed model.

The following items were also used to assemble

the Piper Arrow with retractable landing gear:

❏ Robart #530ARW pneumatic retractable

landing gear kit for Piper Arrow (ROBQ1621)

❏ Robart #188VR variable rate air control kit

(ROBQ2302, includes air tank, variable rate

valve, lines, fittings)

❏ (1 pkg.) Robart #190 Air Line Quick

Disconnects (ROBQ2395)

❏ Robart hand pump with gauge (or suitable

replacement) (ROBQ2363)

❏ Micro servo and 6"[150mm] servo extension

(previously listed under “Radio Equipment”)

❏ (2 pkgs.) Great Planes 0-80 (1/16”) threaded

ball link ball (GPMQ3842)

❏ Optional: 3/4 oz. [20g] glass cloth to reinforce

wing sheeting inside wheel wells (HCAR5000)

COCKPIT AND PILOTS

A scale cockpit kit is also available for this model

(TOPQ8414). It includes the floor, sides and back,

instrument panel, dashboard and four seats. Even

though the cockpit kit can’t be seen in great detail

unless you are up close or have the cabin top

removed, it adds MUCH to the overall scale effect

and really “finishes” the model. Installation

instructions are also included with the cockpit kit.

Two Williams Brother’s #62600 Sportsman 3"[75mm]

(1/4-scale) pilots (WBRQ2626) were used. Since the

pilots are not full-body, a platform was made from

3/32"[2.4mm] hard balsa to support them. Acrylic

paint found at craft stores and hobb y shops was used

for painting the pilots.Acrylic paint is favored because

it is easy to use and washes with water.

TRIM SCHEME/FINISHING SUPPLIES

The trim scheme on the model on the kit box cover

was inspired by a full-size Piper Arrow. All of the

wood surfaces were covered with Top Flite

MonoKote

®

. The cabin top, cowl and tail cone were

painted with Top Flite LustreK ote

®

.Modelers who are

experienced in the application of iron-on coverings

will find this trim scheme of medium difficulty. If a

simpler or different trim scheme is desired this one

could be used as a reference, or just follow the trim

scheme of another full-size subject. Following are

the part numbers of the MonoKote, LustreKote and

covering tools used.

COVERING

❏ (2) 6’ [1.8m] rolls White MonoKote (TOPQ0204)

❏ (1) 6’ [1.8m] roll Metallic red MonoKote

(TOPQ0405)

❏ (1) 6’ [1.8m] roll Metallic gold MonoKote

(TOPQ0404)

PAINT

❏ (2) White primer LustreKote (TOPR7801)

❏ (1) Jet White LustreKote (TOPR7204)

❏ (1) Metallic red LustreKote (TOPR7405)

❏ (1) Crystal clear-gloss LustreKote (TOPR7200)

❏1 roll of 1/4"[6.4mm] Metallic gold striping tape was

also used on the cowl and tail cone (GPMQ1530)

COVERING T OOLS

❏ Top Flite MonoKote trim seal iron (TOPR2200)

❏ 21

st

Century sealing iron (COVR2700)

❏ 21

st

Century iron cover (COVR2702)

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES

In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions Y ou

Must Make” section, follo wing is the list of hardw are

and accessories required to finish the Piper Arrow.

Order numbers are provided in parentheses.

❏ Propeller and spare propellers suitable for

your engine

❏ 14 oz. [420cc] fuel tank (GPMQ4106)

❏ Fuel line (3’ [910mm], GPMQ4131)

❏ 2-1/2"[65mm] spinner (white-GPMQ4520, black-

GPMQ4521, red-GPMQ4522)

-or-

❏ Three-blade aluminum True Turn spinner

(TRUQ2514)

❏ Acrylic paint and paint brushes for painting pilot

(found at craft stores)

❏ Auto body filler (Bondo or similar)

❏ R/C foam padding (1/4"[6mm] HCAQ1000,

1/2"[13mm] HCAQ1050)

❏ Sullivan #521 Kevlar pull-pull control cable set

(for nose wheel steering, SULQ3121)

❏ If building flaps: (1 pkg. of 6) Robart Super

Hinge Points (ROBQ2509)

ADHESIVES AND BUILDING SUPPLIES

In addition to common modeling tools (screw drivers,

hobby knives, drill, etc.), this is the “shor t list” of the

most important items required to build the Piper

Arrow.

We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and

Epoxy glue.

❏ 2 oz. [60g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6003)

❏ 2 oz. [60g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6009)

❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thick Pro CA- (GPMR6013)

❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)

❏ Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)

❏ Pro Aliphatic resin (2 oz. [60g], GPMR6160)

❏ NHP balsa filler (NHPR2211)

❏ Plan protector (GPMR6167) or wax paper

❏ Drill bits: 1/16"[1.6mm], 5/64"[2mm],

3/32"[2.4mm], 7/64"[2.8mm], 1/8"[3.2mm],

9/64"[3.6mm], 5/32"[4mm], 11/64"[4.4mm],

3/16"[4.8mm], 13/64"[5.2mm], 7/32"[5.6mm],

15/64 [6mm], 1/4"[6.4mm], 17/64"[6.7mm],

9/32"[7.1mm]

❏ 8-32 tap and drill set (GPMR8103)

❏ 1/4-20 tap and drill set (GPMR8105)

❏ Tap handle (GPMR8120)

❏ Small metal file

❏ Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)

❏ Silver solder w/flux (GPMR8070)

❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)

❏ #11 blades (100-pack, HCAR0311)

- 5 -

❏ Single-edge razor blades (100-pack, HCAR0312)

❏ Small T-pins (100, HCAR5100)

❏ Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150)

❏ Large T-pins (100, HCAR5200)

❏ Sanding tools and sandpaper assortment (

see

Easy-Touch Bar Sander section)

❏ 16"x 48"[410 x 1220mm] Great Planes Pro

Building Board (GPMR6950)

❏ Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic

parts (HCAR0667)

OPTIONAL SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the

manual that will help you build the Piper Arrow.

❏ 2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)

❏ 4 oz. [113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR634)

❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)

❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)

❏ 3M 75 repositionable spray adhesive

(MMMR1900)

❏ Kyosho

®

masking film (KYOR1040)

❏ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)

❏ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)

❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)

❏ Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)

❏ Metal Template Set (30/60/90 and 45 degree

triangles, HCAR0500)

❏ 36"metal ruler (HCAR0475)

❏ Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402)

❏ 24"x 36"[460 x 910mm] Builder’s Cutting Mat

(HCAR0456)

❏ 16"x 48"[410 x 1220mm] building board

(GPMR6950)

❏ Fuel filler valve for glow fuel (GPMQ4160)

❏Hobbico Duster

™

can of compressed air (HCAR5500)

❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)

❏ Milled fiberglass (GPMR6165)

❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)

❏ Threadlocker thread locking cement

(GPMR6060)

❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)

❏ K & S #801 Kevlar thread (for stab alignment)

❏ Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)

❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel

❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200)

❏ Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)

❏ Hobby Heat

™

Micro Torch II (HCAR0755)

❏ Dead Center

™

Engine Mount Hole Locator

(GPMR8130)

❏ AccuThrow

™

Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405)

❏ Precision Hinge Marking Tool (GPMR4005)

❏Slot Machine

™

hinge slotting tool (110V, GPMR4010)

❏ CG Machine™ (GPMR2400)

❏ Laser incidence meter (GPMR4020)

❏ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700)

EASY-TOUCH

™

BAR SANDER

A flat, durable, easy-to-handle sanding tool is a

necessity for building a well-finished model. Great

Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar

Sanders and replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive-

backed Sandpaper.While building the Piper Arrow,

two 5-1/2"[140mm] Bar Sanders and two

11"[280mm] Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit and

150-grit Adhesive-backed Sandpaper were used.

Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders

and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:

5-1/2"[140mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6169)

11"[280mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6170)

22"[560mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6172)

33"[840mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6174)

44"[1120mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6176)

11"[280mm] Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12’ [3.66m] roll of Adhesive-backed 80-grit

sandpaper (GPMR6180)

150-grit (GPMR6183)

180-grit (GPMR6184)

220-grit (GPMR6185)

Assortment pack of 5-1/2"[140mm] strips

(GPMR6189)

We also use Top Flite 320-grit (T OPR8030, 4 sheets)

and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry

sandpaper for finish sanding.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

·

Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either

30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy

or

6-minute epoxy.

When 30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly

recommended that you use only 30-minute (or 45-

minute) epoxy, because you will need the working

time and/or the additional strength.

·

Photos and sketches are placed before the step

they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in

following steps to get another view of the same parts.

·

Not all die-cut parts have a name, or their complete

name stamped on them, so refer to the die drawings

on pages 8 & 9 for identification. When it’s time to

remove the parts from their die sheets, if they are

difficult to remove, do not f orce them out.Instead, use

a sharp #11 blade to carefully cut the part from the

sheet, then lightly sand the edges to remove any

slivers or irregularities. Save some of the larger

scraps of wood.

- 6 -

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

Fuse = Fuselage

Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer

Fin = Vertical Fin

LE = Leading Edge

TE = Trailing Edge

LG = Landing Gear

" = Inches

mm = millimeters

During construction there will be several

occasions where epoxy cleanup will be

necessary .Instead of wasting whole paper to wels ,

stack three or four paper towels on top of each

other and cut them into small squares. This will

conserve paper towels and the little squares are

easier to use. For epoxy clean up dampen the

squares with denatured alcohol.

Plastic bags filled with lead shot are

recommended for building weights. They assume

the shape of curved surfaces and apply uniform

pressure. Shot can be purchased at sporting

goods stores where hunting supplies are sold. #6

shot is recommended.One 25 lb.[11kg] bag costs

about twenty dollars.Small, sealable food storage

bags can be used to hold the shot.Tape the bags

shut for security. Each bag holds about two to

three pounds. Twelve to fifteen bags is adequate

for this project.

1/64" = .4mm

1/32" = .8mm

1/16" = 1.6mm

3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm

5/32" = 4mm

3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm

2" = 50.8mm

3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm

12" = 304.8mm

15" = 381mm

18" = 457.2mm

21" = 533.4mm

24" = 609.6mm

30" = 762mm

36" = 914.4mm

METRIC CONVERSION

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

- 7 -

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160

Metric Scale

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6"

Inch Scale

- 8 -

DIE-CUT DRAWINGS

- 9 -

DIE-CUT DRAWINGS

PREP ARE T O BUILD

1. If you’ve already purchased the retractable landing

gear, or as soon as you do, take the air lines out of the

package.Unravel the lines and hang them somewhere

in your shop.When it’s time to install the lines they’ll be

nice and straight and they’ll be easier to work with.

2. Remove all the parts from the box.Use a ballpoint

pen (not a felt-tip pen) to lightly write the name or

size on each piece so it can be identified later. Use

the

die-cut patterns

on pages 8 & 9 to identify and

mark the die-cut parts before removing them from

their die sheets. Many of the parts already have

numbers stamped on them, but in some cases the

numbers are located beside the part or only on the

die drawings in the manual. If a part is difficult to

remove from its die sheet, don’t force it out. Instead,

cut around the part with a hobby knife and a #11

blade.After removing the parts from their die sheets,

lightly sand the edges to remove slivers or die-

cutting irregularities. As you proceed, it’s not

necessary to save every scrap of wood, but some of

the larger pieces of wood should be saved.

3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin,

wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top

food storage bags.

BUILD THE T AIL SURF ACES

BUILD THE VERTICAL STABILIZER (FIN)

❏ 1. Unroll the fuselage plan, then re-roll it inside out

so it will lay flat.Cut out the fin plan, then position it ov er

your flat building board and cover it with Great Planes

Plan Protector or wax paper so glue will not adhere.

Note: If you plan to build your Arrow with any kind of a

scale lighting system, now is the time to drill or cut any

holes in the ribs necessary to accommodate the wiring.

❏ 2. Fit the die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa fin ribs R1

through R6 into the notches of the die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm]

balsa fin trailing edge and the die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm]

balsa rudder sub leading edge. Note that all of the

notches are slightly oversize so the parts can fit at an

angle.Also note that a portion of the fin trailing edge and

rudder sub LE protrude below the assembly, but will be

trimmed off later.Make certain the parts are accurately

positioned over the plan and hold them to the building

board with T-pins.

❏ 3. Make sure all the jig tabs are fully contacting

the building board, then glue the assembly together.

❏ 4. Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to

sand a bevel on the leading edge of all the ribs. Do

one rib at a time starting with r ib R6 at the top. Hold

the rib with your fingers and draw the bar sander

down past, resting it against the other ribs to get the

correct angle.

❏ 5. Center the 3/32"x 1/2"x 15"[2.4 x 12.7 x

380mm] balsa fin sub leading edge vertically on the

front of the ribs, then glue it into position.

❏6. Use a razor plane and/or a bar sander to shape

the top (left side) of the sub leading edges and the

trailing edge so they are even with the ribs.

Note: Make sure none of the T-pins protrude above

any of the parts so they won’t catch.

- 10 -

❏ 7. Glue the die-cut 3/32” [2.4mm] balsa rudder

rib R1A into position. If necessary, sand R1A to

blend with the rest of the structure.

Now it’s time to mak e the balsa skins f or sheeting the

fin and rudder.

❏8. Glue together both sets of die-cut 1/16"[1.6mm]

balsa parts that make up the fin skins. CA could be

used, but aliphatic resin (white glue) is preferred as it

allows time for positioning and is easier to sand.Use

masking tape and weights to hold the parts together

while the glue dries and press down along the glue

joint to make sure the seams are flat.

❏ 9. Cut the two corner pieces and the leading edge

pieces as shown on the plan from a 1/16"x 3"x 30"[1.6 x

75 x 760mm] balsa sheet to complete the skins and glue

them into position.

❏ 10. After the glue dries examine both skins to see

which side will be the right and which side will be the

left.Arrange the skins so the best sides will be on the

outside. Use 180-grit sandpaper to carefully sand

both sides of the skins flat. Note: The insides don’t

have to be as “flat” as the outsides—use care not to

over thin the skins by sanding too much.

❏ 11. Carefully cut out the corr ugations. A single-

edge razor blade works well until you get to the

smaller ones near the top of the skin where a #11

blade will have to be used.

❏ 12. Make a thin sanding tool by using spray

adhesive to bond a piece of medium-grit sandpaper

to a strip of leftover 1/16"[1.6mm] plywood. Use the

sanding tool to true the edges of the corrugations.

Hold the skin down near the edges of the

corrugations with a ruler or something similar so you

do not damage the skin while sanding.

❏ 13. Cut the corrugation filler strips from 1/16"x

1/4"x 30"[1.6 x 6.4 x 760mm] balsa sticks and glue

them to the inside of the fin skins. The best way to

align the strips is with a straightedge—start at the top

and work your way do wn.Once a filler strip has been

positioned, use medium CA to glue it into position.

Using thin CA is not recommended because it may

not create a strong enough bond to hold the filler

strips to the skin when bending it to the ribs.

Note: Should you decide to build your Arrow

without the corrugations, replace the die-cut skins

supplied with this kit with soft to medium density

1/16"[1.6mm] balsa sheeting (not supplied).

- 11 -

❏14. Prepare the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa rudder

skins by cutting out the corrugations and gluing on the

corrugation fillers the same as the fin skins.

❏ 15. Remove most of the T-pins holding the fin

framework to the building board, but leave a few of

them in R1 and R6 to hold the structure down. Make

sure none of the pins will be concealed under the

skin after it has been glued into position.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 16. Test fit the left fin skin to the framework and

see how it lines up. The bottom of the skin should

align with the dashed line indicating the bottom of the

skin on the plan. After you see how the skin fits, glue

it into position with medium or thick CA.

❏ 17. Glue the left rudder skin into position the

same way.

❏ 18. Take out any remaining T-pins and remove the

fin/rudder assembly from the building board.

❏19. T rim off the jig tabs with a hobby knif e , then use

a razor plane followed by a bar sander with 80-grit

sandpaper to trim the leading and trailing edges even

with the ribs. Using the ribs in the rudder as a guide,

bevel the trailing edge of the left skin to accommodate

the right skin as shown in the sketch and on the cross

section of the fin drawing on the plan.

❏ 20. Referring to the plan, cut the hinge blocks

from a 1/2"x 1/2"x 24"[12.7 x 12.7 x 610mm] balsa

stick. Trim the blocks so that when in position, they

will be 1/16"[1.6mm] below the surface of the ribs to

accommodate the 1/16"[1.6mm] balsa corrugation

filler strips on the right side of the fin and rudder

skins. Glue the hinge blocks into position.

Refer to this photo for steps 22 through 26.

❏ 21. Test fit, then glue the rudder and fin skin into

position on the right side.Align them the same as was

done for the skins on the left side of the assembly.

❏ 22. Sand the leading edge of the skins even with

the sub leading edge. Trim the bottom of the skins

and the spars even with rib R1 and R1A.

- 12 -

❏ 23. Cut the fin leading edge from the 1/4"x 3/4"x

30"[6.4 x 19 x 760mm] balsa stick, then glue it into

position. Save the remainder of the stick for the

rudder leading edge. Sand the top of the fin leading

edge even with R6 and sand the sides of the leading

edge even with both sides of the fin.

❏ 24. Use a small razor saw to separate the rudder

from the fin.Sand the fin sheeting and rib stubs even

with the fin trailing edge and sand the rudder

sheeting and the rib stubs even with the rudder sub

leading edge.

❏ 25. Cut the rudder leading edge from remainder

of the 1/4"x 3/4"[6.4 x 19mm] balsa stick used for the

fin leading edge, then glue it into position. Sand the

top, bottom and sides of the rudder leading edge

even with the rudder, but do not sand the “V” on the

leading edge until instructed to do so.

FINISH THE FIN AND RUDDER

❏ 1. Taking accurate measurements, stick T-pins into

the middle of the fin trailing edge near both ends.Place

a straightedge against the pins and use a fine-point

ballpoint pen to mark a centerline all the way down.

❏ 2. If you have a Great Planes Slot Machine , use it

to cut the hinge slots where shown on the plan on the

centerline you marked. If you do not have a Slot

Machine, use a #11 hobby blade to cut the hinge

slots. Start by making a small slit. Then, working in

small increments, go a little deeper moving the blade

back and forth. Note that it’s the back of the blade

that does the work.

❏ 3. Use the same procedure to mark the centerline

and cut the hinge slots in the rudder.

❏ 4. Cut three 3/4"x 1"[19 x 25mm] hinges from the

CA hinge strip. Snip off the corners so they go in

easier.Temporarily join the rudder to the fin with the

hinges. Use masking tape to securely hold the

rudder to the fin so it will not move.

❏ 5. Cut the fin and rudder tip from a 1/2"x 1"x

24"[13 x 25 x 610mm] balsa stick, then glue them to

the top of the fin and rudder. Be cer tain to leave an

approximately 3/32"[2.4mm] gap between the fin and

rudder tips.

- 13 -

❏6. Use a razor plane and/or a hobby knife f ollo wed

by a bar sander to shape the fin and rudder tip to

match the fin and rudder, but do not round the top

until the next step.

❏ 7. Now go ahead and round the tips of the fin and

rudder by sanding.

❏ 8. Remove the tape and separate the fin from the

rudder. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint pen to

mark lines on both sides of the rudder 1/4"[6mm]

back from the leading edge. Using the lines and the

centerline as a guide, shape the leading edge of the

rudder to a “V” shape to allow for control throw.Also

shape the front of the rudder tip as shown.

❏ 9. Test fit the rudder to the fin with the hinges.

Move the rudder back and forth to make sure it

moves freely. Make any adjustments necessary.

❏10. Use a putty knife or the included 1/16"[1.6mm]

die-cut plywood applicator to apply lightweight balsa

filler to partially fill the corrugations. Try to be

consistent and fill the corrugations about half-way as

shown in the sketch.

❏ 11. After the filler has dr ied, sand the surface of

the skins and down into the corrugations.

Set the fin and rudder aside while you build the stab.

BUILD THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER (STAB)

Don’t forget, this is a one-piece, “flying”

stabilizer and has no elevators. Let’s start by

making the top and bottom stab skins…

❏ 1. Cut a 1-3/8"[35mm] strip from a 1/16"x 3"x

30"[1.6 x 75 x 760mm] balsa sheet to be used as the

trailing edge portion of one of the die-cut

1/16"[1.6mm] balsa stab skins. Use the remaining

1-5/8"[41mm] sheet to make the right and left

leading edge portions.

- 14 -

❏2. Repeat the previous step to make the leading and

trailing edge portions of the other stab skin. Glue the

sheets you just cut to the front and back of the stab

skins.Reminder: Aliphatic resin is recommended over

CA because it will allow time to position the sheets and

will be easier to sand after it dries.

❏3. While the glue on the stab skins is drying, make

up the ribs for the stab assembly by gluing a die-cut

1/8"[3.2mm] plywood rib doubler “S2C” to both

sides of four die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa stab ribs

S2. Glue one die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood rib

doubler “S2B” to one side of another stab rib S2

(make two of these, and be sure to make a right and

a left). Lastly, make two sets of root stab ribs by

gluing together two die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood

stab ribs S1. Note: If you forget which of the

doublers “B” are, they are the ones with the larger

hole for the brass tubing.

…Back to the stab skins…

❏4. After the glue on the stab skins has dried remove

the masking tape and sand both sides flat and even.

Cut the Stab Center Cutout Template from the plan

and use it to mark the cutout in the stab skins with a

ballpoint pen.Cut and remove the section of sheeting,

but do not cut directly on the line—leave some

additional material to allow for positioning.

❏ 5. Cut out the corrugations and tr ue the edges

with your sanding tool. Cut the corrugation fillers

from more 1/16"x 1/4"x 30"[1.6 x 6 x 760mm] balsa

sticks and glue them to the insides of the stab skins

the same as you did for the fin and rudder skins.

❏ 6. Cut the stabilizer control rod to a length of

6"[150mm] from a 4-40 x 12"[300mm] pushrod by

cutting off the threaded end. Discard the threaded

end (or keep it for your spare parts bin). Cut the

dowel spar to a length of 15-3/4"[400mm] from the

5/16"x 16"[8 x 405mm] hardwood dowel.Use a piece

of a paper towel or a tissue dampened with

denatured alcohol to clean any residual oil from the

control rod. Clean the inside and outside of the

11/32"x 6"[8.7 x 150mm] brass tube and the 3/8"x 1-

1/2"[9.5 x 38mm] brass tube as well.

❏ 7. Drill 3/32"[2.4mm] holes between the ends of

the die-cut slots in the plywood S1 Ribs to make slots

that will accommodate the stabilizer control rod.Also

drill 3/32"[2.4mm] holes through the punchmarks

through the ribs at the punchmarks in the B doublers.

- 15 -

❏ 8. Use 320-grit or 400-grit sandpaper to roughen

the outside of the 11/32"x 6"[8.7 x 150mm] brass

tube and the inside and outside of the 3/8"x 1-

1/2"[9.5 x 38mm] brass tube so glue will adhere.

❏ 9. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the dowel spar

and tubes together—both tubes should be centered

on the dowel. From now on this assembly will be

referred to as the stab spar.

Note: It may be necessary to sand down the dowel

to get it to fit into the 11/32" [8.7mm] brass tub.

❏ 10. Enlarge the holes in the nylon swivel clevis

with a #40 drill.

❏ 11. Slide the swivel clevis and two 3/32"[2.4mm]

wheel collars onto the 4-40 control rod. (The set

screws will be installed and tightened when finalizing

the radio setup after the model has been completed.)

Slide the bearings over the stab spar. Fit the ribs on

the pushrod and the stab spar.Working over the stab

plan, fit the assembly to the die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm]

balsa sub leading edge and the die-cut

3/32"[2.4mm] balsa sub trailing edge. Join the rest

of the ribs to the assembly.

❏ 12. Hold the stab assembly to the building board

with T-pins.Glue the ribs to the sub leading edge and

to the sub trailing edge.

❏ 13. Securely glue the stab spar and the stabilizer

control rod to the ribs.

❏ 14. Use a razor plane followed by a bar sander to

shape the top of the sub leading and trailing edges

even with the tops of the ribs to accommodate the

sheeting. Make sure none of the T-pins are in the way.

❏ 15. Sand the trailing edge of the plywood S1 ribs

to accommodate the balsa stab trailing edge.

❏ 16. Remove any T-pins from the stabilizer

assembly that will be concealed under the stab skin

when you glue it into position. Glue one of the stab

skins to the top of the stab. Thick or medium CA

could be used, but aliphatic resin is recommended

because it will allow more working time for

positioning the skin. Use T-pins and weights to

securely hold the skin down until the glue dries.

❏ 17. Remove the stab from the building board.The

same as you did with the vertical stabilizer, trim the

bottom of the sub trailing edge and the bottom of the

sub leading edge even with the ribs to accommodate

the bottom sheeting.

- 16 -

❏ 18. Glue the 1/8"x 1/4"x 30"[3.2 x 6.4 x 760mm]

balsa stabilizer trailing edge into position. Cut the

stab center filler block from the 1/2"x 1"x 24"[12.7

x 25 x 610mm] balsa stick (first used for the fin and

rudder tips). Shape the block to fit between the S1

ribs, but don’t worry about rounding the inside edge

at this time. Glue the block into position.

❏ 19. Shape the stabilizer trailing edge, the stab

center filler block and the top sheeting to match the

shape of the ribs.

❏ 20. Prepare to glue on the bottom stab skin.Test

fit the skin and check the alignment. Make any

adjustments where necessary for a good fit.The skin

will be glued on with medium or thick CA, so you’ll

want to get it positioned correctly and work quickly.

❏ 21. Apply thick or medium CA to the ribs and

spars and to the trailing edge of the top skin where it

contacts the bottom skin. Working quickly, position

the bottom skin.Carefully press the skin into position

without introducing any twist. Apply pressure to the

trailing edge over your flat work surface. This will

ensure a straight and true trailing edge. Handle both

halves of the stab as though they were two separate

pieces—work on pressing down both halves of the

skin separately.

❏ 22. After the CA has hardened, trim the leading

edge and the tips of the skins even with the sub

leading edge and the ribs.

❏ 23. Round the stab center filler block and trim the

sheeting even with the S1 ribs.

❏ 24. Cut the stabilizer leading edge from a 1/4"x

1/2"x 30"[6.4 x 25 x 760mm] balsa stick, then glue it

into position. Shape the leading edge to match the

plan and sand it even with the tip ribs and the S1 ribs.

❏ 25. Cut the Stabilizer Tip T emplate from the plan

and use it to cut out two stabilizer tips from the 1"x

1-1/2"x 15"[25 x 38 x 380mm] balsa stick.

- 17 -

❏ 26. Mark a centerline around the tips, then glue

them into position. Using the centerlines as guides,

carve and sand the tips to match the stab, then round

to a finished shape.

❏ 27. The same as was done on the fin and rudder

corrugations, get out your putty knife and wood filler

and partially fill all of the corrugations on both sides

of the stab.Allow to dry, then sand.

BUILD THE WING

MAKE THE WING SKINS

❏ 1. Cut the wing center panel plan from the wing

plan.Cover the plan with Plan Protector or w ax paper

and place it over your flat building board.

❏ 2. Cut four 1/16"x 3"x 30"[1.6 x 75 x 760mm] balsa

sheets into twelve 3"x 10"[75 x 250mm] balsa sheets.

Set one of the 3"x 10"[75 x 250mm] sheets in your scrap

pile and cut another one of the 3"x 10"[75 x 250mm]

sheets into two 1-1/2"x 10"[38 x 250mm] sheets.

❏ 3. Glue the sheets together as shown in the

previous photo to make a forward and aft center

panel skin. Make two of each.

❏ 4. Sand the skins flat and even.

BUILD THE CENTER PANEL

❏ 1. Glue a die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood rib

doubler 1A to both sides of a die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm]

balsa rib W1.Make another assembly the same way.

❏ 2. Cut the balsa from between the dowel notches

in both rib assemblies.

❏ 3. Referring to the plan, glue the four die-cut

1/8"[3.2mm] plywood doublers W1B to the opposing

sides of the outer two ribs that will go on both ends

of the center panel.

- 18 -

❏ 4. Use a #11 blade to cut part way through both

sides of the ribs that go on the outer ends of the

center panel between the spar notches.

❏ 5. Glue together both die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm]

plywood center leading edges (CLE).

❏ 6. Cut the top and bottom spars for the center

panel to a length of 9-3/8"[240mm] from a 1/4"x 3/8"x

36"[6.4 x 9.5 x 910mm] basswood stick.

❏7. Join the ribs to the center leading edge, the die-

cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood center trailing edge, the

die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood center spar web and

the top and bottom main spars.

❏ 8. Position the assembly over the plan and hold it

down with weights and a few T-pins stuck into the jig

tabs and into the bottom of the ribs where they

contact the plan, just aft of the bottom spar.Use thin

and medium CA to glue all the parts together.When

gluing the outer ribs, use the die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm]

plywood dihedral gauge to make certain they are

set at the correct angle.

❏ 9. Mark the center of the hole to be drilled in one

of the 3/8"x 1"x 2-1/16"[9.5 x 25 x 52mm] basswood

wing bolt blocks 5/8"[16mm] from the end and

3/8"[10mm] from the front edge. Drill a #7 hole

through the block at the mark. Mark and drill the

other wing bolt block the same way. Use 30-minute

epoxy to glue the wing bolt blocks into position.

❏ 10. After the epoxy hardens, glue leftover

1/8"[3.2mm] balsa over the blocks to support the

sheeting around the holes that will be drilled later.

❏ 11. Remove the weights and carefully sand the

tops of the center leading edges and the center

trailing edge even with the tops of the ribs.

- 19 -

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 12. Both sides of the center panel will be sheeted

in two sections—with the seam centered over the

main spars. With the assembly accurately aligned

over the plan, start by sheeting the aft section with

one of the skins you prepared earlier. The skin

should be trimmed so that the aft edge aligns with

the trailing edge depicted on the plan and the front

edge aligns with the middle of the top spar.Glue the

skin into position—aliphatic resin is preferred as it

will allow time for alignment. Thick or medium CA

could be used, but you’ll have to work quickly.

❏ 13. Glue the forward sheet into position.

❏ 14. After the glue has dried, remove the center

panel plan from the building board. Carefully cut the

jig tabs from the bottom of the ribs.Sand all the parts

even with the ribs and bevel the underside of the

trailing edge of the top sheeting to the same angle as

the ribs to accommodate the bottom sheeting.

❏ 15. Using the holes in the wing bolt blocks as a

guide, drill a #7 hole through the top sheeting.

❏ 16. Drill 1/16"[1.6mm] pilot holes through both

punchmarks in the center leading edge. Enlarge the

holes for the wing dowels with a 1/4"[6.4mm] drill.

❏ 17. Glue pieces of leftover 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa

inside the wing where shown.Cut or drill 1/2"[13mm]

holes for the servo wires and air lines.

❏ 18. Cut the trailing edg e support from a 1/8"x

1/4"x 30"[3.2 x 6.4 x 760mm] balsa stick and glue it

into position.Bevel the support to match the shape of

the bottom of the wing.

❏ 19. Select the hardest of the remaining 1/16"x 3"x

30"[1.6 x 75 x 760mm] balsa sheets.F rom this sheet,

cut the shear webs as shown on the plan for the

front and back of the spars on both ends of the panel.

Glue the webs into position.

❏ 20. Sheet the bottom of the center panel in two

sections the same way you sheeted the top.

❏ 21. Trim the sheeting and spars even with the ribs

on both ends of the center panel. Sand the sheeting

flat and even.

❏ 22. Remember when you were instructed to cut

part way through the ribs on the ends of the panel?

Now is the time to cut the rest of the way through the

ribs along the lines and remove the material between

the spars.

Now the center panel is complete and may be set

aside while building the outer panels.

- 20 -

BUILD THE OUTER PANELS

We’ll start by making the wing skins. It’s a bit of an

undertaking to do them all at once, but then you

won’t have to make any more. Or you could just

make the skins as needed…

❏ 1. Glue together two 1/16"x 3"x 36"[1.6 x 75 x

910mm] balsa sheets to make one 6"x 36"[150 x

910mm] balsa outer wing skin. Make seven more

6"x 36"[150 x 910mm] outer skins the same way.

❏ 2. After the glue has dried, cut a 3/4" x 18"[19 x

460mm] strip from four of the skins.These will be the

skins used for sheeting the front of the wings. Glue

the cut off strips to each of the remaining four other

skins. These will be the skins used for sheeting the

rear of the wings.

❏ 3. After the glue has dried, sand the skins flat.

Remember, the insides of the skins don’t have to be

perfect—do not ov er thin the skins by sanding too much.

Start building the left panel so your progress

matches the photos the first time through.

❏❏4. Cut the left wing panel plan from the wing

plan and place it over your flat building board and

cover with Plan Protector so glue will not adhere.

❏❏5. The same as was done for the ribs on the

ends of the center panel, cut partway through both

sides of rib W2 between the spar notches.

❏❏6. Glue a die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood wing rib

W5A to W5 and glue a W4A to W4. Make sure you

glue the “A” ribs to the correct side for the wing

panel you are working on.

❏❏7. Glue together the two parts of the die-cut

1/8"[3.2mm] plywood spar webs.

❏❏8. Cut two 1/4"x 3/8"x 36"[6.4 x 9.5 x 910mm]

basswood sticks to the length shown on the plan for

the top and bottom spars.

❏❏9. Fit but do not glue all the wing ribs (W2

through W9) to the spar web. Fit but do not glue the

top and bottom spars, the die-cut 1/8"[2.4mm] balsa

aileron bay sub trailing edge, flap bay trailing

edge and the die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa outer sub

leading edge.

❏❏10. Pin five or six of the wing ribs down to the

building board through the low points just aft of the

bottom spar and through the jig tabs.

❏❏11. Use thin or medium CA to glue all

contacting parts together except for the top spar—do

not get any glue on the top spar. Use the dihedral

gauge to make sure rib W2 is set at the correct

angle. (The rib should lean slightly toward the wing

tip to accommodate the dihedral.)

- 21 -

❏❏12. Remove the top spar from the assembly.

Apply a bead of medium or thick CA along the top

edge of the spar web, then reposition the top spar.

Make sure W2 is still at the correct angle using the

dihedral gauge.

❏❏13. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa inner

sub leading edge into position.

❏❏14. Prepare the top of the wing for sheeting by

trimming and sanding the sub leading edges, the

aileron bay sub trailing edge, the flap bay trailing

edge and the top spar even with the tops of the ribs.

❏❏15. Trim one of the aft skins to fit the wing so

that the front edge aligns with the middle of the top

spar and the aft edge aligns with the middle of the

flap bay sub trailing edge. The skin should extend

1/16" [1.6mm] or so past the aileron bay sub trailing

edge to allow for trimming later.

❏❏16.Glue the aft skin into position.Aliphatic resin is

recommended as it will allow time for positioning. Use

weights and T-pins to hold the skin in position while the

glue dries.The rest of the trailing edge betw een the W9

ribs at the wing tip will be sheeted later.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏❏17. Cut and trim one of the forward skins to fit

the wing, then glue it into position. Use a piece of

leftover sheeting for the small cor ner at the leading

edge where the front sheet won’t reach.Use weights

and/or T-pins to hold the sheeting down while the

glue dries.

❏❏18. If not building flaps, test fit one of the die-cut

1/16" [1.6mm] balsa flap skins to the wing.The trailing

edge of the skin should extend 2-1/8" [54mm] aft of the

top wing skin.Cut out the slots for the corrugations and

trim the flap skin as necessary for a good fit, then glue

the skin into position. If you are building working flaps,

trim a 7/16" x 17-3/4" [11 x 435mm] strip from a piece

of leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] hard balsa.Glue the strip over

the flap bay trailing edge.

❏❏19.After the glue on all of the wing sheeting has

dried, remove the wing from the building board.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏❏20. Flip the wing over and lay it on your

workbench. Cut two 3-3/4" [95mm] long landing

gear rails from the 1/4" x 1/2" x 16" [6.4 x 13 x

410mm] basswood stick. Use 30-minute epoxy to

glue the rails into position. For additional strength,

milled glass fibers could be added to the mixture.

This will allow you to build up small fillets without the

glue dripping away from the joints.

❏❏21. While the epoxy on the landing gear rails is

hardening, make the servo hatch rails from a 1/4" x

3/8" x 36" [6.4 x 9.5 x 910mm] basswood stick and glue

them into position. Be certain to glue the aileron hatch

rails in the two inboard W8 ribs as shown on the plan.

Note: If not building working flaps, there is no need to

cut and glue in the servo rails for the flaps.

❏22. Return to step 4 and build the right wing panel.

Don't forget to build over the right wing plan.

- 22 -

FIT THE FIXED LANDING GEAR

Skip this section if installing retracts.

Note: Even though the landing gear assembly for the

left wing is shown in the photographs, both landing

gear assemblies could be installed simultaneously.

❏ 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue a 3/4" x 1" x 1" [19

x 25 x 25mm] basswood main landing gear torque

block to one end of a 1/2" x 1" x 2-11/16" [12.7 x 25

x 68mm] grooved bass w ood main landing gear rail.

After the epoxy has hardened drill a #11 (or 3/16"

[4.8mm]) hole in the middle of the groove through the

rail and the block 1/2" [13mm] from the end. Bevel

the opening of the hole to accommodate the bend in

the wire, then test fit the left landing gear wire.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 2. Glue together two die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood

fixed landing gear plates.Note that the grain direction

of each plate runs in the opposite direction. Use 30-

minute epoxy to glue the plates to the rail, but use care

not to inadvertently glue in the wire gear.

❏ 3. Secure the gear with two nylon landing gear

straps and four #2 x 1/2" [13mm] screws. Drill 1/16"

[1.6mm] holes for the screws.Don’t forget to harden

the threads with a few drops of thin CA.

❏ 4. Install the assembly in the wing between the

landing gear rails, then drill six 7/64" [2.8mm] holes

through the landing gear plates and the rails in the

wing for the mounting screws. Remove the landing

gear from the wing and enlarge the holes in the

landing gear plate with a 9/64" [3.6mm] or 5/32"

[4mm] drill. Mount the landing gear assembly to the

wing with six #6 x 1/2" [13mm] screws.

FIT THE RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR

Skip this section if installing fixed landing gear.

❏ 1. Remove the partial cutout in rib 3 to

accommodate the wheel.

❏ 2.Test fit the landing gear into the rail. If the fitting

for the air line on the side of the air cylinder prevents

fitting the retract, the cylinder may be rotated so the

fitting is facing at a downward angle.Then the retract

unit should fit between the rails.A small corner of the

aft rail will have to be trimmed to accommodate the

oleo strut.

❏ 3. Center the landing gear in the rails from side-to-

side. Mark the center of the four mounting holes on

the rail. Drill 7/64" [6.7mm] holes through the rails at

the marks for the mounting screws.Mount the retract

to the rail with the #6 x 1/2" [13mm] screws that

came with the retract.

❏ 4. Fit a piece of 3/16" [4.8mm] brass tubing into

the strut where the axle goes. Place a straightedge

on the wing parallel with the spar.Adjust the strut so

the tubing is parallel with the straightedge and

tighten the strut.

❏ 5. Cut the axle to the correct length and mount a

3" [75mm] wheel to the strut.

❏ 6. Retract the gear into the wing. Trim rib R3 as

necessary so the wheel will fully retract.

❏ 7. Remove the retract unit from the wing. Add

several drops of thin CA to the scre w holes to harden

the threads.

- 23 -

FINISH FITTING THE LANDING GEAR

Even though retractable landing gear are shown

in the photos, this section applies both to fixed

and retractable landing gear.

❏ 1. Cut the landing gear rail shear webs from the

remainder of the 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 75 x 760mm]

balsa sheet used for the shear webs for the center

panel. Glue the shear webs into position.

❏ 2. Deter mine how close you can position a piece

of leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa across the rails to the

retract unit while still allowing the unit to be removed

from the wing. This piece of balsa will support the

sheeting. Glue the suppor t into position.

❏ 3. Build a

box

around the retract mount with

leftover balsa strips.Sand the edges of the box even

with the contour of the ribs. After the bottom of the

wing has been sheeted and the opening has been

cut for the retract, the opening will be nice and neat

and the sheeting will be supported.

❏ 4. Optional: For a durable, finished appearance,

the top sheeting inside the wing over the wheel

openings can be coated with lightweight (3/4 oz.)

fiberglass cloth and resin.When sanded and painted,

this will make the inside of the wheel wells fuel and

weather proof and look great. First, cut four strips of

cloth (two for each wing) to fit between the ribs, then

lay into place.Use a soft brush to coat the cloth with

finishing resin or 30-minute epoxy. Before it thickens,

use a business card to lightly squeegee excess resin

from the cloth.This will remove wrinkles and bubbles

making the cloth lay flat. After the epoxy has fully

hardened, lightly sand with 400-grit sandpaper. Now

the wheel wells may be painted. An airbrush will

provide the most ev en coverage and allow you to get

paint into all of the little corners without over spraying

the rest. See page 61 on how to spray LustreKote

®

through an airbrush. Note: Should you decide to add

the cloth later, be certain to do so BEFORE covering

the model. Otherwise, epoxy and paint will soak into

the sheeting and show through the covering.

If you will be “glassing”and painting the inside of

the wheel wells, get the other wing panel to this

same stage of completion. That way both wheel

wells can be treated at the same time.

- 24 -

SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE WING

❏ 1. Trim the jig tabs from the ribs on the bottom of

the wing. Sand the flap bay trailing edge, the aileron

bay sub trailing edge and the sub leading edges

even with the bottoms of the ribs.

❏ 2. If not building working flaps, cut out the

corrugations from a die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa flap

skin. Glue the flap skin to the wing, then glue on the

1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2 x 6.4 x 760mm] balsa TE

support and the corrugation filler str ips. Use the ribs

on the bottom of the wing as a guide to sand the TE

support and the top flap skin to accommodate the

bottom flap skin.

❏3. If building working flaps, cut three 1-1/2" [40mm]

flap hinge blocks from the 3/4" x 3/4" x 12" [19 x 19

x 300mm] balsa stick. Shape the hinge blocks to fit

the flap bay trailing edge, then glue them into

position where shown on the plan. Sand the hinge

blocks even with the bottom of the wing.

❏ 4. If building working flaps, trim the ribs and top

sheeting aft of the flap bay trailing edge as shown.

❏ 5. Assemble the three die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood

wing cradles by gluing the “feet” onto the supports.

❏6. Use thick or medium CA to tack glue the cradles

to the top wing sheeting directly over the respective

ribs—just a drop of CA in a few areas is all that is

required.

❏ 7. Use leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] sheeting and a

leftover 1/8" x 1/4" [3.2 x 6.4mm] balsa stick to sheet

the top of the wing and the TE support over the R9

ribs at the wing tip. Sand the sheeting and TE

support even with the bottom of the ribs.

❏ 8.T rim one of the aft wing skins to fit the bottom of

the wing. If building flaps, the skin should extend

slightly beyond the flap ba y trailing edge for trimming

later. If building fixed flaps the skin should extend

only to the middle of the flap bay trailing edge. In

both cases, the front of the skin should align with the

middle of the bottom spar.Glue the skin into position,

but do not glue the skin to the flap or aileron hatch

rails or to the ribs between the rails.This will facilitate

the cutting of the sheeting for the hatch covers later.

Glue another piece of leftover 1/16" [1.6mm]

sheeting to the bottom of the wing over the R9 ribs.

❏ 9. If building fixed flaps glue the corrugations to

the inside of another flap skin, test fit, then glue the

skin into position.

❏10. Fit, then glue the forward wing skin into position.

- 25 -

MOUNT THE HATCHES AND LANDING GEAR

❏ 1. Cut the openings for the aileron and flap (if

used) hatches. Start by cutting a small hole, then

enlarging the hole until you get to the ribs and the

servo rails. Use the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood

hatches as templates to enlarge the openings until

the hatches fit perfectly (with an approximately 1/64"

[.5mm] gap all the way around). Note that the ribs

support both the sheeting and the hatch, so you’ll

have to work with precision.

❏ 2. Center the hatch in the opening. Hold the hatch

down so it will not move, then drill 1/16" [1.6mm]

holes through the hatch and the mounting rails.

❏ 3. Remove the hatch. Enlarge the holes in the

hatch only with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill. Countersink

the holes in the hatch with a small countersink, a

hobby knife or a Dremel #178 cutting bit (shown in

the photo).

❏ 4. Mount the hatch to the wing with four #2 x 3/8"

[9.5mm] screws. If necessary, perfect the gap all the

way around the hatch by trimming the hatch or the

opening. Remove the hatch, then use medium CA to

glue the sheeting to the ribs and rails where it wasn’t

glued before.

- 26 -

❏ 5. Cut the sheeting for the landing gear and the

wheels (if installing retracts). Do it the same way you

did for the servo hatches—start by cutting small

holes, then enlarging the holes until you can get the

gear and the wheel to fit. If installing retracts, mount

the gear first, then cut the hole for the wheel as you

retract the gear and fit the wheel into the wing.

❏ 6. If you mounted retracts, reinforce the bottom

sheeting around the wheel cutouts with 1/32" [.8mm]

plywood (not included) or 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa.Do so

first by cutting a sheet to fit between the ribs, then by

marking the cutout. Cut out the unneeded portion,

then use medium CA to glue the sheet into position.

Do this in sections until the opening is completely

lined. True the edges to match the shape of the

original cutout.

❏ 7. True all the edges of sheeting and spars even

with both ends of the wing, the sub leading edges,

the aileron bay sub trailing edge and the flap bay

trailing edge.

❏ 8. Cut the aileron bay trailing edge from a 3/8" x

1" x 18" [9.5 x 25 x 460mm] balsa stick, then glue it

into position. Car ve and sand to match the wing.

❏ 9.The same as was done for the ribs on the ends

of the center panel, cut the rest of the way through

the rib on the end of the outer panel so the spar

joiner will fit in the wing.

❏ 10. Cut the outer leading edge from a 3/8" x 7/8"

x 30" [9.5 x 22.2 x 760mm] balsa stick, then glue it to

the front of the wing. Cut the inner leading edge

from another 3/8" x 7/8" x 30" 9.5 x 22.2 x 760mm]

balsa stick and bevel the end to meet the outer LE.

Glue the inner LE into position. Shape the leading

edges to match the wing, but don’t round and final-

shape them yet.

❏ 11. Use the wing tip template on the plan to

shape one of the 2" x 2" x 13" [50 x 50 x 330mm]

balsa blocks.Glue the block to the end of the wing.

- 27 -

❏ 12. Use a carving knife or a razor plane to shape

the top of the block to match the shape of the wing.

Follow with a bar sander and 80-grit sandpaper.

Note: When sanding, hold the bar sander on the end

over the tip and apply pressure there only. This way,

you won’t be sanding the sheeting.

❏ 13. Shape the bottom of the tip to a 45-degree

angle as shown on the cross-section on the plan.

❏14. Use progressively finer grades of sandpaper to

final-shape the wing tip and the leading edge of

the wing.

BUILD THE AILERONS

Do the left aileron first.

Refer to this photo for the following eight steps.

❏❏1. Cut out the corrugations from one of the die-

cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa aileron skins. This will be

the bottom, left aileron skin. Hint: A single-edge

razor blade works best for cutting, but is too long.

Use a cut-off wheel to shorten a razor blade so it will

fit in the slots.

❏❏2. Position the aileron skin over the left aileron

plan.Note that the skin is a little wider (from the front

to the back) than it needs to be.Mark the leading and

trailing edge where the skin is to be trimmed.Trim the

skin as needed so it fits the plan. Note: The skin is

also a little longer than it needs to be, but it won’t be

trimmed until later.

❏❏3. Reposition the skin over the plan. Mark the

locations of the aileron ribs that will be glued on later.

❏❏4. Cut a 3/8" x 5/8" x 18" [9.5 x 16 x 460mm]

balsa stick to the correct length for the aileron

leading edge. Glue the leading edge to the skin.

❏❏5.Cut the control horn support from a leftover

piece of 1/2" x 1/2" x 24" [13 x 13 x 610mm] balsa

stick (there should be a piece left from the fin leading

edge). Glue the hor n suppor t into position.

❏❏6. Cut sixteen corrugation fillers to the length

shown on the plan from a 1/16" x 1/4" x 30" [1.6 x 6.4

x 760mm] balsa stick, then glue them into position.

❏❏7. Glue the nine die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa

aileron ribs into position.

❏❏8. Glue the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2 x 6.4 x 760mm]

trailing edge support into position. Bevel the leading

edge, the trailing edge support and the trailing edge of

the aileron skin to match the angle of the aileron ribs.

- 28 -

❏❏9. Prepare the top aileron skin by cutting out the

corrugations. Cut the corrugation fillers. Note that the

fillers extend from the front of the cutouts to

approximately 1/8" [3mm] from rear of the cutouts.Cut a

bevel on the aft edge of the fillers to accommodate the

fillers on the top skin, then glue the fillers into position.

Also note the two shorter corrugation fillers to

accommodate the control horn support. Test fit, then

glue the skin to the rest of the assembly.Tr im aileron to

the length shown on the plan.

❏❏10. Mar k a centerline along the aileron leading

edge and along the trailing edge of the wing where

the aileron goes. Cut hinge slots in the wing and

aileron where shown on the plan.

❏❏11. Bevel the leading edge of the aileron, then

test fit it to the wing with the hinges.

❏❏12. Glue pieces of leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] die-cut

balsa to ends of the aileron and shape to fit.

❏ 13. Return to step one and make the right aileron

the same way.

BUILD THE WORKING FLAPS

Build the left flap first.

❏❏1.The same as you have been doing all along,

cut out the corrugations from one of the die-cut 1/16"

[1.6mm] balsa flap skins.

❏❏2. Place the flap skin over the plan aligning the

corrugations. Use a ballpoint pen and a straightedge

to mark the location of the trailing edge support all

the way across.

❏❏3. Mark the locations of the flap ribs, then cut

the trailing edge support from a 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2

x 6.4 x 760mm] balsa stick. Note: Since the right

wing plan shows the fixed flap version, the locations

of the right flap ribs are indicated by the small

dashed lines. Glue the trailing edge suppor t to the

skin along the line marked in the previous step.

❏❏4. Glue on the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood

flap ribs. Cut the flap sub leading edge from a

3/16" x 3/8" x 18" [4.8 x 9.5 x 460mm] balsa stick,

then slip it under the notches in the flap ribs and glue

it into position with thin CA.

❏❏5.Cut off the flap skin along the front of the flap

sub leading edge. Cut the corrugation filler strips,

then glue them into position.

❏❏6. Trim the trailing edge of the flap skin as

necessary until the total width of the flap is 1-5/8"

[42mm], then bevel the trailing edge of the skin to

match the angle of the ribs.

❏❏7. Trim 3/4" [19mm] from the front and 3/16"

[4.8mm] from the rear of another flap skin. Cut

eighteen 1-1/8" [3.2mm] long corrugation fillers and

glue them to the inside of the skin so the front is even

with the front of the skin.

❏❏8.The same as was done with the corrugation filler

strips for the top aileron skin, bevel the aft end of the

corrugation filler strips on the top flap skin. Test fit the

skin to the flap assembly. Make adjustments where

necessary, then glue the top flap skin into position.

- 29 -

❏❏9. Bevel the front of the flap to match the angle

of the plywood flap ribs.

❏❏10. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the

punchmark in the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood flap

control horn. Fit but do not glue the horn into the

flap next to the flap rib where shown on the plan for

the flap you are working on.Mark, then cut the 1/2" x

1" x 24" [13 x 25 x 610mm] balsa flap leading edge

into two pieces at the horn.

❏❏11. Position the shorter piece of flap leading

edge on the flap next to the horn. Note how the flap

leading edge is positioned so that the top aligns with

the top of the flap and the excess extends below the

bottom of the flap. Use a ballpoint pen to mark the

outline of the horn onto the end of the leading edge.

❏❏12. Cut a 1/16" [1.6mm] deep groove in the

leading edge piece between the lines marked noting

the horn.

❏❏13.With the flap horn still in position, permanently

glue the longer section of flap leading edge to the flap,

but do not get any glue on the horn as it will need to be

removed. Remove the flap horn, then use a couple

drops of thick or medium CA to tack glue the shorter

section of leading edge to the flap.

❏❏14. Shape the top and bottom of the flap

leading edge to match the flap, but do not round the

leading edge until instructed to do so.

❏❏15.Sand the ends of the flap leading edge even

with the flap ribs on both ends of the flap. Glue one

of the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood flap ends to the

end of the flap and the longer, permanent section of

flap leading edge. Glue another flap end to the other

end of the flap, but not to the short section of flap

leading edge that is tack glued to the flap.

❏❏16. Shape the flap leading edge to match the

flap ends.

- 30 -

❏❏17. Carefully break away the short piece of flap

leading edge that was tack glued to the flap .Glue the

flap horn into the flap, then glue the flap leading edge

back on. Use thick CA or aliphatic resin so you will

have time to accurately reposition the leading edge.

❏ 18. Return to step 1 and build the right flap the

same way. Use the small hash marks on the right

wing plan to mark the flap hinge locations.

HINGE THE FLAPS

❏ 1. Glue together the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood

pieces that make up the wingand flap hinge drill guides.

❏ 2. Optional: The drill guides may be used

as is

to

guide a 3/16" [4.8mm] drill while drilling the holes for

the flap hinges.Howe v er , f or ultimate precision, 7/32"

[5.6mm] brass tubes could be glued between the

grooves of the guides to support your drill even

better.The grooves in the drill guides will have to be

beveled slightly to accommodate the tubes. (The

tubes can be seen in following photos).

❏ 3. Cut the hole in the flap bay trailing edge to

accommodate the flap horn. Position the flap on the

wing and use masking tape to temporarily hold it in

position. Referring to the wing plan, use a

straightedge and a ballpoint pen to lightly mark the

hinge locations on the flap and wing.

❏ 4. Remove the flap from the wing. Using the

appropriate drill guide, drill 3/16" [4.8mm] holes 5/8"

[16mm] deep into the flap. Hint: “Cleaner” holes can

be drilled with a 3/16" [4.8mm] brass tube sharpened

on the end. Note the marks on the brass tube

indicating the depth of the hole.

❏ 5. Drill the hinge holes in the wing the same way.

Stop drilling after you feel the drill (or tube) go

through the hinge block so you don’t go through the

top wing sheeting.

- 31 -

❏ 6. Trim one end of three large Robart Hinge Points

so they will fit into the flap.Test fit the flap to the wing

with the hinges. Move the flap up and down to align

the hinges and see how the flap fits. Make any

adjustments needed for smooth operation.

❏ 7. Hinge the other flap the same way.

MOUNT THE FLAP AND AILERON SERVOS

❏ 1. Cut four (or eight if building working flaps) 7/8"

[22.2mm] servo mounts from the 3/8" x 3/8" x 24"

[9.5 x 9.5 x 610mm] basswood stick. (Save the

remainder of the stick for mounting the fuselage.)

Glue one servo mount to each of the die-cut 1/16"

[1.6mm] plywood servo mount supports.

Mount the aileron servos first…

Refer to this photo to mount the servos to the hatches.

❏ 2. Mount the aileron servos to the servo mounts by

drilling 1/16" [1.6mm] holes into the servo mounts and

using the servo screws that came with the servos.Make

sure the second servo is mounted in a “mirror image”of

the other for the opposite side of the wing.

❏3.Temporarily remove the screws, add a fe w drops

of thin CA to the holes, allow to harden, then remount

the servos.

❏ 4. Cut off the unused servo arms. Use 30-minute

epoxy to securely glue the servo mounts to the

hatches. Make sure the servo arms are centered in

the openings.

Futaba servo arms

Have you ever noticed the small, molded-in

numbers on the Futaba servo arms? Each

number represents the number of degrees that

the arm is offset from 90-degrees. Due to mass-

production variances, not all servos are exactly

the same. Before cutting off the unused servo

arms, determine which arm is the correct one to

keep for that servo. To do this, connect the servo

to the desired channel in the receiver. Turn on the

transmitter and receiver , then center the trim lev er .

Position the arm on the servo until you find one

that is 90-degrees, then cut off the others. Now

your servo arm will be centered when your trim is

centered—of course, this procedure could be

done when actually setting up the radio after the

model has been finished.

- 32 -

❏ 5. If building working flaps, mount the flap servos

to two more sets of mounting blocks.Note that while

the aileron servos are mounted to the hatches in a

“mirrored” image, the flap servos are not mirrored

(so that the flaps will work together (instead of in

opposition as do the ailerons).

It will be easier to hook up the ailerons before

joining the wing halves, so go ahead and do so

as instructed below. But it will be better to hook

up the flaps after the model has been covered

and the flaps have been permanently joined to

the wing with the hinges.

❏6. Enlarge the holes in the aileron servo arms with a

Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (HCAR0698) or a 5/64" [2mm]

drill. Connect the ailerons to the servos using the

hardware shown in the photo. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes

into the ailerons for the screws that mount the horns.

Pok e se v eral pinholes into the ailerons and w et the area

with a few drops of thin CA to harden the balsa.

JOIN THE WINGS

❏ 1. Remove the flaps and ailerons from both

wing panels.

❏ 2. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood wing

joiners into each of the three wing panels.Note that the

ends of the joiners marked “R”are the ends that go into

the center panel. Make adjustments as necessary to

get the joiners to fit into the wing panels, then test fit the

wing panels together with the joiners.

❏ 3. Tightly tape the outer panels to the center

panel. There should be no gaps. Check the dihedral

by laying the center panel flat and measuring the

distance between the workbench and the bottom of

the tips under the spar. The distance should be 3"

[76mm], but a variance of plus or minus 3/8" [10mm]

is acceptable as long as both panels are the same.

❏ 4. Prepare for gluing the panels together—this

should be done one panel at a time.Gather all the items

necessary including 30-minute (or longer) epoxy,

mixing utensils, wax paper, masking tape, paper towel

squares and denatured alcohol for cleanup.

❏ 5. Make sure any parts-fit problems in joining the

wings have been resolved—there won’t be time to

correct problems once you start gluing. Mix a batch

of 30-minute epoxy—1/2 oz. [15cc] should be more

than enough to do the job. Apply epoxy to the rib on

the end of the outer panel and to the inside of the

outer panel where the joiners go.Apply epoxy to the

joiners and insert them into the outer panel. Coat the

inside and outside of the outer panel the same way,

then slide the two together.Wipe away excess epoxy

as it oozes out. Use plenty of masking tape on the

top and bottom of the wing to tightly hold the panels

together. Continue to wipe away excess epoxy as

you make sure the panels are accurately aligned.Do

not disturb the wing until the epoxy has fully

hardened.Hint: It will be much easier to wipe excess

epoxy from the wing before it has hardened than it

will be to try sanding if off after it has hardened.

❏ 6. After the epoxy from the previous step has

hardened remove the masking tape and join the

other panel to the assembly.

❏7.If you hav en’t yet done so, fill the corrugations

with lightweight balsa filler, allow to dry, then

lightly sand smooth.

Set the wing in a safe place while you are working on

the fuselage.

- 33 -

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

FRAME THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSELAGE

❏ 1. The fuselage plan consists of two pieces. Cut

one of the pieces at the lines, then tape it to the other

plan aligning the lines.

❏ 2. Cut the bottom view of the fuselage plan from

the rest of the plan (or leave the plan together and

position the bottom view over your flat building

board). Cover the plan with Great Planes Plan

Protector or wax paper so glue will not adhere.

❏ 3. Glue a die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood bottom

inside stabilizer mount (BI) over a die-cut 1/8"

[3.2mm] plywood bottom outside stabilizer mount

(BO). Note that the bottom, angled edges of the

parts should align (remember the fuselage is being

built upside-down so for now, the bottom is the

upward facing edge). Note: Unless otherwise

specified, all of the fuselage formers are 1/8"

[3.2mm] plywood.

❏ 4. Make another assembly the same way, except

make them a mirror image for the other side.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 5. Drill a 7/64" [2.8mm] or 1/8" [3.2mm] hole

through one of the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood

bottom stabilizer mount triplers. Note that two of

these parts are included, but only the one is used.

Glue the tripler to the inside of the left stabilizer

mount as shown in the photo.Glue the other, smaller

tripler to the inside of the right stabilizer mount.

❏ 6. Glue together the three die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

plywood parts of the firewall bottom 1AB, 1BB and

1CB. Make sure you glue them together in that order

and that the stamped names of the parts all face

upward (forward).

❏ 7. Drill 7/32" [5.6mm] holes through the two

punchmarks in the firewall where indicated by the

arrows in the sketch for the bottom engine mount

blind nuts. Tap two 8-32 blind nuts into the holes in

the back of the firewall. Use thin CA to permanently

secure the blind nuts. If you will be installing

retractable landing gear, drill 9/64" [3.6mm] holes

through the two other punchmarks for the nose

steering guide tubes.

- 34 -

❏8. Glue former 3A to the front of 3B.Glue the die-cut

1/16" [1.6mm] plywood doublers 2C to both sides of

former 2B. If you will be installing retractable landing

gear, drill 9/64" [3.6mm] holes through the two other

punchmarks for the nose steering guide tubes.

❏ 9. Use a straightedge and a fine-point ballpoint

pen to draw a line across the punchmarks in one of

the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood fuselage

doublers.Enlarge the notches in the doubler back to

the line by cutting awa y the un used material.This will

now be the right fuselage doubler.

❏ 10. Cut one of the shaped 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" [6.4 x

9.5 x 910mm] balsa fuselage main spars in half.

Splice one of the halves onto another fuselage main

spar.Hint: Pin the spars to the building board along

the borderline of the plan to make sure they are

straight. Make another assembly the same way.

❏ 11. Pin the fuselage main spars to the building

board over the plan as shown in the sk etch.Note that

the aft ends of the spars align with the front edge of

F10B. The front of the spars should extend slightly

past the front of the firewall (for trimming later).Also

note that the T-pins should go in at an angle so as not

to interfere with the fuselage doublers when they are

added later.

❏ 12. Drill 3/16" [4.8mm] holes through the

punchmarks in formers 9B, 8B, 7B and 6B.Drill 1/8"

[3.2mm] holes through the bottom two punchmarks

on both sides of former 2B.

- 35 -

Finally, it’s time to start gluing on formers. We’ll

start with the back and work our way forward.

Here’s a photo of what the bottom of the

fuselage looks like when it’s partially framed-up.

You can use this photo as a reference as you

perform the following several steps.

❏ 13.Test fit, then glue formers 7B through 12B and

the bottom stabilizer mounts into position. Be certain

all of the formers are vertical and accurately align

with their position on the plan. Note: Twisted formers

will simply be straightened when the stringers are

added later. Note: Be certain the pushrod holes in

the formers align with the pushrod holes shown on

the plan.

❏ 14. Star ting from the aft end, fit, but do not glue

formers 6B through 2B and both fuselage doublers to

the assembly. Be certain that the fuselage doubler

you cut earlier will be on the right side of the

fuselage—remember, the fuselage is being built

upside-down, so the right side is the side nearest us

in the photos.Note: Be certain that 3A faces forward

as shown on the plan.

❏ 15. Glue former 4B and the fuselage doublers—

only in the area of 4B—to the fuselage spars.

❏ 16. Proceed by gluing the remaining formers

(except the firewall) and the fuselage doublers into

position. As you proceed, bow the fuselage doublers

outward between the formers so they align with the

fuselage main spars and glue as you go.

❏ 17. Glue the firewall into position with 30-minute

epoxy. Use clamps, large T-pins or whatever means

necessary to hold the parts together and keep the

firewall in alignment until the epoxy hardens. #2 x 1/2"

[13mm] screws may also be used to help hold the

fuselage sides to the firewall. Tighten the screws

securely so the heads sink partway into the doublers—

the screws will be permanent.

❏ 18. Cut both 3/16" x 24" [4.8 x 610mm] gray

pushrod guide tubes to the length shown on the plan

for the stabilizer and rudder. Roughen the outside of

the tubes with coarse sandpaper, then slide them

into position, but do not glue.

❏ 19. Use the remainder of the 3/8" x 3/8" x [9.5 x

9.5mm] basswood stick leftover from the aileron servo

mount for the bottom of the fuselage across the

doublers.Glue the stick into position and sand the ends

even with the doublers.

❏ 20. Cut and glue seven 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" [4.8 x

4.8 x 610mm] balsa stringers into the notches in the

formers in the aft end of the fuselage. Any formers

that are twisted can be drawn into position as the

stringers are glued to them. Now glue the previously-

installed guide tubes to the formers.

❏ 21. Glue in the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood fuel

tank tray.(The tray can be seen in following photos.)

- 36 -

❏ 22.Test fit the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood nose

gear supports and the 1/4" x 9/16" x 10" [6.4 x 14.3

x 250mm] plywood nose gear mounting rails. Cut

the rails to the correct length and save the cut off

pieces. Glue the parts into position with 30-minute

epoxy. Use clamps to hold the supports to the firewall

and to the rails.Wedge leftover balsa sticks between

the rails to press them into the notches in the firewall

and former 2.

❏ 23.Test fit your servos in the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

plywood forward servo tray. If necessar y, enlarge

the openings for the servos.

❏24.Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood servo tray

supports to the tray, then glue strips of leftover 1/8"

[3.2mm] plywood across the bottom of the tray for the

servo screws.Glue the forward servo tray into position.

Skip step 25 if installing fixed landing gear.

❏ 25. If installing retracts, cut the remaining two

pieces of 1/4" x 9/16" [6.4 x 14.3mm] plywood

leftover from step 22 and glue them to the bottom of

the front of the rails.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 26. Glue both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood wing

mounting block retainers into position. Sand an

angle on one end of both 1/2" x 1" x 2" [13 x 25 x

50mm] basswood wing mounting blocks to match

former F5. Glue the mounting blocks into position

with 30-minute epoxy. Use clamps to hold the blocks

in position until the epoxy hardens.

❏ 27. Glue another strip of leftover 1/8" [3.2mm]

plywood across the front of the servo openings in the

die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood aft servo tray.

Simultaneously fit the aft servo tray and the 1/4" x

1/4" x 12" [6.4 x 6.4 x 305mm] basswood stick into

position. Cut the stick to the correct length between

the fuselage sides, then glue the parts into place.

❏ 28. Use two more 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" [4.8 x 4.8 x

610mm] balsa sticks for the four stringers between the

firewall and former F3 and glue them into position.

SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSELAGE

❏ 1. One at a time, remove, then replace the T-pins

in the fuselage main spars as shown.

❏ 2. Sand all of the fuselage stringers even with

formers to accommodate the sheeting.

❏ 3. Cut a 12" x 1-7/8" [305 x 47.6mm] piece from a

3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 75 x 610mm] balsa sheet.Glue

the piece back on as shown in the sketch.

- 37 -

❏ 4.Test fit the sheet to the aft fuselage bottom. Cut

an angle at the front, then glue the sheet into

position—the exact angle isn’t critical because the

second sheet will be custom fit to the first.

❏5. Sheet the front of the fuselage bottom using two

more 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 75 x 610mm] balsa

sheets.The aft end of the sheet will have to be cut at

an angle to match the sheet already on the fuselage

in the previous step.

❏ 6. Sheet the other side of the fuselage the

same way.

❏ 7. Use one more 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 75 x

610mm] balsa sheet and leftover 3/32" [2.4mm]

balsa to sheet the forward and aft bottom of the

fuselage.Sand the bottom and side sheeting and the

stringers to match the angle of the formers.

❏ 8. Use three 1/4" x 2" x 24" [6.4 x 50 x 610mm]

balsa sheets to cover the corners on the bottom of

the fuselage—two for both sides of the rear and the

third cut in half for the front. Remove the fuselage

bottom from the plan. Use a razor plane and bar

sanders to round the corners, but don’t remove too

much material so there will be enough to match the

fuselage to the tail cone in the rear and to the cowl in

the front.

- 38 -

MOUNT THE FIXED NOSE GEAR

Skip this section if installing retracts.

❏ 1. Glue the 1/4" x 3/4" x 1-3/8" [6.4 x 19 x 35mm]

plywood spacer, centered, between the 1/2" x 1-

9/16" x 2" [13 x 39.7 x 50mm] basswood fixed nose

gear blocks. When doing so, lay the parts on a flat

surface with the beveled edges down so they align.

❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood

mounting plate, centered, to the front, beveled end

of the basswood blocks. Hint: Temporarily slide the

assembly over the mounting rails on the fuselage to

center the mounting plate on the blocks. Glue the

die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood cover plates to the top

and bottom of the assembly. Note: The assembly is

photographed upside-down because we are still

working on the fuselage while it is upside-down.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 3. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the

punchmarks in the mounting plate. Fit the nose gear

wire with the steering arm and collars to the nose

gear bearing. Mount the assembly to the mounting

plate assembly with four #4 x 5/8" [16mm] screws.

(You can see all of the par ts in the following photo).

❏ 4. Slide the assembly onto the mounting rails on

the fuselage until the center of the nose gear wire is

3-1/16" [1.6mm] from the firewall.

❏ 5. Drill 5/32" [4mm] holes all the way through the

nose gear mounting assembly. Temporarily mount

the assembly to the rails with four 6-32 x 2" [50mm]

bolts, #6 flat washers and lock washers and 6-32

blind nuts as shown on the plan.

The nose steering and throttle will be hooked up

after the engine has been mounted.

MOUNT THE RETRACTABLE NOSE GEAR

Skip this section if not building retracts.

❏ 1. Mount two 0-80 ball link balls (not included) to

the steering arm on the nose gear.

❏ 2. Remove the strut from the assembly. Place the

nose gear mount on the rails. Retract the gear and

make sure the steering arm will clear the ends of the

plywood standoff pieces previously glued to the

bottom of the rails.

❏ 3. Drill 7/64" [2.8mm] holes through the rails for

mounting the nose gear. Mount the nose gear with

four #6 x 1/2" [13mm] screws.

❏ 4. Mount the strut on the nose gear assembly and

mount the axle and a nose wheel (not supplied) to

the nose gear.Reminder: A 2-1/2" [64mm] wheel is

specified, but if using Robart wheels a 2-1/4" [57mm]

wheel is used as their wheels are slightly oversize.

Use a cutoff wheel to file a flat spot on the axle and

cut it to the correct length.

- 39 -

❏5. The same as was done for the main landing gear,

reinforce the inside of the bottom sheeting with 3/32"

plywood (not supplied) or leftover balsa.Cut an opening

in the bottom of the fuselage to accommodate the nose

gear. Proceed slowly to get a nice-looking cutout, but

make sure you leav e enough room all the way around so

the gear will never “hang up.”

MOUNT THE ENGINE

❏ 1. Glue together the three die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

plywood formers F1T. After the glue dries drill 7/32"

[5.6mm] holes through the two punchmarks for the top

engine mount blind nuts. Install the blind nuts, then

permanently glue them in with thin or medium CA.

❏ 2.Test fit, then glue in F1T into position.

❏ 3.Temporarily bolt the engine mount to the firewall

with four 8-32 x 1-1/4" [32mm] socket head cap

screws, #8 lock washers and flat washers, but don’t

tighten the bolts all the way. Adjust the engine mount

to fit your engine, then tighten the bolts.

❏ 4. Use small C-clamps to hold the engine on the

mount so the backplate of the spinner will be 6-1/8"

[155mm] from the firewall.

❏ 5. Use a Great Planes Dead Center™ Engine

Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130) or another method

to mark the engine mounting hole locations on the

engine mount.

❏ 6. Remove the engine and drill #29 holes at the

marks. Use an 8-32 tap to cut threads into the holes.

Bolt the mount to the firewall, but don’t tighten the

bolts yet. Mount the engine to the mount with four 8-

32 x 1" [25mm] socket head cap screws and #8 lock

washers. Suggestion: Use a drill press to drill the

holes in the engine mount if you have access to one.

❏ 7. Center the engine mount vertically on the

engine mount bolts, then tighten the bolts the rest of

the way.

CONNECT THE NOSE STEERING AND THROTTLE

❏1. If installing retracts, cut two 4-1/2" [115mm] pieces

from the 12" [300mm] white, plastic guide tube.

Roughen the outside of the tubes with coarse

sandpaper so glue will adhere, then glue them into the

holes previously drilled in the firewall and former F2.

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

❏ 2. Mount the throttle and nose wheel steering

servo as shown. If installing retracts, also mount the

air valve servo and the air control valve with the 1/8"

[3.2mm] plywood air control valve mount.

❏ 3. If installing retracts, connect the nose wheel

steering cables/lines to the servo arm as shown. A

Sullivan #521 Kevlar Pull-pull control cable set

(SULQ3121) was selected because the Kevlar lines

are strong, easy to work with and the swivel

connectors are preferred. Rather than using the

crimp tubes, knots were tied in the lines and secured

with a small drop of thin CA.

- 40 -

❏ 4. Temporarily install the pull/pull lines and

connect the air valve to the air valve servo using the

hardware shown. Note that the air valve servo can

only move so far before it will interfere with the nose

wheel steering lines. The air valve should be fully

open (or closed) when the servo is in this position.

This can be adjusted using the AFR or ATV function

in your transmitter.

❏ 5.If installing fixed landing gear, connect the nose

wheel steering servo to the steering arm with the

hardware shown in the photos. The pushrod goes

through the hole in the bottom of the firewall and the

cutout for the retractable nose wheel in former F2.

Bend the pushrod as necessary and cut it to the

correct length.

❏ 6.Test fit the fuel tank and route the lines through

1/4" [6.4mm] holes drilled through the firewall.

Secure the tank as shown in the manual with a #64

rubber band connected to a leftover 1/8" [3.2mm]

plywood stick glued across the bottom of the tray.

Don’t forget to use R/C foam rubber underneath.The

lines will be connected later.

❏ 7. Use an extended 3/16" [4.8mm] drill or a 3/16"

[4.8mm] brass tube sharpened on the end to drill

holes through the firewall and F2 for the throttle

pushrod guide tube. Use a piece of guide tube

leftover from the stabilizer and rudder guide tubes

and glue it into position. Connect the carburetor arm

to the throttle servo with the pushrod and hardware

shown on the plan.

COVER THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

It’s time to get started on the top of the fuselage, but the

horizontal stabilizer will be permanently installed during

the process. It will be much easier to cover the stab

before attaching it to the fuselage, so follow the

instructions to cover the stab.We’ve experimented with

several different methods for covering the corrugations

and found that the method described works best.

❏ 1. If you haven’t yet done so, final-sand the stab to

prepare it for covering. Remove all balsa dust using a

shop-vac with a brush attachment or compressed air.

❏ 2. Star t by covering the inside edges of the stab.

First cut a strip of covering, then use a 3/8" [9.5mm]

brass tube sharpened on the end to cut a hole in the

strip. Cut a slit from the hole to the front of the strip,

then slip the strip over one of the brass tubes. Iron

the strip into position.

❏ 3. Cover the rest of the way around the inside

edge of the stab, then cut the cov ering appro ximately

1/16" [1.6mm] from the outer surfaces. Iron the

covering down.

- 41 -

Now for the fun part...

❏ 4. Use a trim seal tool to iron 3/16" [4.8mm] str ips

of covering down into the corrugations. Carefully cut

the ends of the strips at the ends. Hint: Use a metal

file and wet/dry sandpaper to round the tip of your

trim seal tool to match the radius of the corrugations.

❏ 5.After all of the corrugations have been covered,

cover the bottom of the stab going right over the

corrugations as though they weren’t even there. The

bottom can be covered in one piece.After ironing the

covering down around the tips, use thin tape as a

guide to cut the covering. Peel off the tape and the

unneeded covering.

❏ 6. Cover the top of the stab the same way—the

tape trick still works. This will provide an even,

straight, nearly invisible seam.

❏ 7. Now to finish the corrugations—use a

straightedge and a sharp hobby knife to slit the

covering down the middle of all the corrugations—

don’t worry, this really works (you could try it on the

bottom first). Use the trim seal tool to iron the

covering down into the corrugations over the

previously ironed-down strips. Note: Should your

covering job ever require a little touch-up to remove

any wrinkles that may appear in the future, don’t use

a heat gun. This will pull the covering from the

corrugations. Always use a covering iron with a

covering sock to remove wrinkles.

Now that the stabilizer has been covered, you may

proceed with construction.

- 42 -

MOUNT THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

❏ 1.Sand the sheeting around the bottom and sides

of the fuselage even with former F10.

❏2.Mount the stabilizer servo in the rear servo tra y. Cut

the unthreaded end from a 36" [910mm] pushrod so the

pushrod will be 25" [635mm] long.Thread a nylon clevis

20 full turns onto the pushrod. Guide the pushrod

through stabilizer pushrod tube, then connect the clevis

to the servo arm on the stabilizer servo.

❏ 3. Trim the nylon bellcrank as shown. Enlarge the

remaining holes with a Hobbico servo horn drill or a

5/64" [2mm] drill.

❏ 4. Temporarily mount the bellcrank with the brass

bushing, a 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] screw, a #4 washer

and a 4-40 nut. Mar k the stabilizer pushrod where it

crosses the holes in the bellcrank.

❏ 5. Disconnect the pushrod from the servo, slide

the pushrod out past former F11B and make a Z-

bend in the pushrod at the mark. Cut off the excess

wire. Remove the bellcrank.

❏ 6. Make the short stabilizer pushrod as shown in

the sketch from a 6" [150mm] pushrod. Note that a

portion of the threaded end also has to be cut off.

Thread the pushrod into the swivel clevis on the

stabilizer control rod. Connect the bellcrank to the

pushrod.

❏ 7. Glue together both sets of die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

plywood top outer and top inner stabilizer

mounts. Be certain to make a right and a left side.

Note that the parts align along the top edges.

❏ 8. Now is your final opportunity to make any

fixes/improvements/adjustments to the covering on

the horizontal stabilizer, because soon, it will be

permanently mounted to the fuselage. Do anything

now that will be difficult to do when the stab is on

- 43 -

the fuselage.

❏9.Connect the stabilizer pushrod to the bellcr ank and

place the stabilizer bearings (that are already on the

stabilizer) in the stab mounts.Mount the bellcrank.

(You

can see more pictures of the bellcrank hookup, starting

on page 51 under “Fit the Tail Cone.”)

❏10. Without using any glue, place the top stabilizer

mounts on the fuselage over the stabilizer bearings.

Again without glue, join die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood

formers 8T and 9T and the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

plywood fin mounting base to the assembly.

❏ 11. Place a straightedge across the top of the

fuselage. Stand about ten feet behind the model and

view the alignment of the stabilizer and the

straightedge. If the stabilizer is not parallel with the

straightedge, try placing an ounce or two of weight

on the “high side” of the stab. If weight is not enough

to align the stab, remove the stab from the fuselage

and look for glue blobs or any other imperfections

where the bearings fit in the stab mounts. Make any

modifications necessary and remount the stab, then

recheck the alignment.

❏ 12. Remove 8T, 9T, the fin mounting base and the

top stabilizer mounts. Leave the stab connected to

the bellcrank and pushrods, but swing the trailing

edge of the stab forward and upward so the stab will

be resting upside-down on the fuselage.Apply a thin

coating of 30-minute epoxy and microballoons in the

bearing seats in the bottom stab mounts.

IMPORTANT: Use care not to get any epoxy in the

bearings. They must rotate freely after the epoxy

has cured.

❏ 13. Reposition the stab. Make certain the bearings

are all the way inward up against the 1/16" [1.6mm]

triplers and that the stab is centered from side-to-

side. Proceed immediately to the next step.

❏ 14. Apply another coating of 30-minute epoxy and

microballoons to the bearing seats in the top stab

mounts, then use medium CA or 30-minute epoxy to

permanently glue the top stab mounts into position.Also

glue 8T, 9T and the fin mounting base into position.

❏ 15. IMPORTANT! Take accurate measurements

to make certain the stab is centered from side-to-

side. There will be plenty of clearance between the

stabilizer and the tail cone, but if the stab isn’t

perfectly centered you will be able to see an uneven

gap between the two sides.

- 44 -

❏ 16. Glue both die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood top

stab mount triplers to the inside of the stab mounts

above the bottom stab mount triplers. Glue two sets of

die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood bearing retainers to the

outer brass tube and to each other, b utdo not glue the

retainers to the stab mount. Make certain the

retainers are pressed tightly against the stab mount

triplers, but do not glue them to the triplers. This will

keep the stab from shifting in the bearings. Glue strips

of leftover balsa across the halves to strengthen the

glue joint between the two halves.

❏ 17. Glue two more sets of bearing retainers to the

outside of the stab mounts, but do not glue them to

the brass tubes.These will ensure that the bearings

remain in place.

❏ 18. Disconnect the stab pushrod from the servo.

Move the pushrod back and four th to make the stab

move up and down. The stab should move freely. If

necessary, make adjustments to get the stab to

move without any binding.Reconnect the pushrod to

the servo.

MOUNT THE VERTICAL ST ABILIZER (FIN)

❏1. Glue die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers 12T,

both halves of 11T, and 10T into position. Also glue

7T and 6T into position.

❏2. Cut the threaded end of the rudder torque rod to a

total length of 1-1/8" [28mm] as shown in the sketch.

❏ 3. Temporarily set the fin and rudder into position.

Thread the 4-40 nylon torque rod horn onto the rudder

torque rod. Hold the torque rod up to the rudder so the

threaded arm portion will be centered in the slot in the

top stabilizer mount. Mark the location of the other end

of the torque rod onto the rudder

- 45 -

.

❏ 4. Use a 1/8 [3.2mm] drill bit or a brass tube

sharpened on the end to drill a hole into the rudder for

the torque rod.

❏5. Use a 5/32" [4mm] brass tube sharpened on the

end or a hobby knife to cut a groove for the torque

rod and the nylon bearing.Test fit the torque rod and

the bearing to the rudder.

❏ 6. Cut a hinge slot in the fin for the bearing, then

test fit the rudder and the bearing to the fin. Make

adjustments where necessary for a good fit and

smooth operation. Separate the rudder from the fin

and take out the torque rod.

❏ 7. Mount the rudder servo the same way you

mounted the stabilizer servo.Cut another pushrod to

a length of 27" [685mm], then thread on a nylon

clevis. Inset the pushrod through the rudder guide

tube from the back of the fuselage.

❏ 8. Inser t the torque rod into the fuselage, then set

the fin into position and insert the bearing into the fin.

Join the rudder. Connect the clevis on the rudder

pushrod to the torque rod horn. Move the pushrod

back and forth to check the operation. Make

adjustments where necessary.

❏ 9.The fin

could

be glued into position at this time,

but similar to the stabilizer, it will be easier to apply

the covering strips down in the corrugations first.

Apply the corrugation strips at this time. If duplicating

the trim scheme on the kit box cover, apply the white

strips first with overlapping metallic red strips as

shown. Note the covering guidelines lightly penciled

directly onto the fin.

❏ 10. Glue the fin into position using 30-minute

epoxy mixed with milled glass fibers or microballoons

to thicken the mix to keep it from running.

Simultaneously glue the rudder torque rod bearing

into the fin. Use a builder’s square to make certain

the fin is perpendicular to the stabilizer before the

epoxy hardens. Use the line drawn on the trailing

edge of the fin as an alignment cue.

- 46 -

SHEET THE AFT END OF THE FUSELAGE

❏1. Glue the 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" [4.8 x 4.8 x 610mm]

balsa stringers into the notches in the formers as

shown. As you proceed, make certain the formers

are vertical (especially F6) as you glue in the

stringers.Glue two shorter stringers along both sides

of the fin. Make certain they follow the same contour

as the top of the fuselage.

❏ 2. Use four 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 75 x 610mm]

balsa sheets to sheet the sides and top of the aft end

of the fuselage as shown.The same as was done on

the bottom, sand the sheeting even with the stringers

to accommodate the thicker balsa corners.

❏ 3. Cut both 3/8" x 3" x 24" [9.5 x 75 x 610mm]

balsa sheets to the correct length, then glue them

into position for the corners. After the glue hardens

use a razor plane to do the initial, rough shaping.

❏ 4. Glue both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers

pieces 9T into position on both sides of the fin.

❏ 5. Shape a piece of leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa to

fit between the top and bottom of former 10 as

shown. Make sure there is adequate clearance for

the pushrod.

- 47 -

❏ 6. Use leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa sheets to sheet

the remaining open section of the fuselage in two

pieces.Do the upper portion first, then the lower portion.

❏ 7. Apply lightweight balsa filler where needed,

then sand to blend with the rest of the sheeting.

BUILD THE DORSAL FIN

❏ 1. Glue together the two parts of the die-cut 1/8"

[3.2mm] balsa dorsal fin. Glue the dorsal fin,

centered, to the fuselage.

❏ 2. Glue pieces of leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa to

both sides of the dorsal fin. Note the grain direction.

❏3. Use lightweight balsa filler to blend the dorsal fin

to the fin.This is best done in multiple layers, sanding

between each application after the filler dries.

FINISH THE TOP OF THE FUSELA GE

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood fuselage

former top 2T into position. Glue leftover 3/8" x 3/8"

[9.5 x 9.5mm] stringers into the notches as shown.

❏ 2. Glue a piece of leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa to

the side stringer to fill the gap between the fuselage

sheeting and 2T. The same as was done on the

bottom of the fuselage, sand the sheeting and

formers even with the angle on the firewall and 2T.

- 48 -

❏ 3. Sheet the top of the fuselage over the firewall

and 2T with leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa sheeting.

Bevel the edges of the sheeting even with the

stringers, then finish the top of the fuselage by gluing

on leftover 3/8" x 3" [9.5 x 75mm] balsa sheets f or the

fuselage corners. Use a razor plane or a hobby knife

followed by a bar sander to round and shape the

corners even with the side and top sheeting, but

remove as little material as possible as final shaping

will be done when fitting the cowl and cabin top.Also

sand the sheeting and corner blocks even with the

firewall and 2T.

MOUNT THE CABIN TOP

❏1.Cut f our 1/2" [13mm] cabin mounting blocksfrom

the 1/4" x 1/2" x 3" [6.4 x 13 x 75mm] plywood stick.

❏ 2. Test fit, then use 30-minute epoxy to glue the

blocks into position where shown on the plan.

❏ 3. Glue together both halves of the die-cut 1/8"

[3.2mm] plywood cabin frame.Temporarily slide the

fuel tank out of the way or remove it altogether, then

position the cabin frame on the side stringers in the

fuselage. Accurately center the cabin frame from

side-to-side. Use small clamps or masking tape to

hold the cabin frame in place.

❏ 4. Drill 1/8" [3.2mm] holes through the cabin frame

and the cabin mounting blocks. After you drill each

hole temporarily insert a 4-40 x 1/2" [13mm] socket

head cap screw.

❏ 5. Enlarge the holes in the cabin frame only, with

a 9/64" [3.6mm] drill bit. Insert 4-40 blind nuts into

each hole on the top of the frame (

see

the photo at

step 7).Permanently secure the blind nuts with a f ew

drops of thin CA. Allow to fully harden.

❏ 6. If installing the scale cockpit interior, cut the

cross brace

from the top of formers F3, F4 and F5.

❏ 7. Mount the cabin frame to the fuselage with the

socket head cap screws and #4 washers.

- 49 -

❏8.Use a ballpoint pen to mark the edges of the cabin

frame anywhere it needs to be trimmed to align with the

fuselage side stringer.Remove the cabin frame, trim the

edges, refit and mark and trim again as necessary until

the sides of the cabin frame are even with the side

stringer all the way down both sides.

❏ 9. Make

spacers

for the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

plywood cabin top formers F2C and F6C from thin

cardstock or double layers of a manila folder—

approximately .020" [.5mm] is the desired thickness.

❏ 10. Use 3M 75 Repositionable spray adhesive or

something similar to adhere the spacers to the back

of F6C and to the front of F2C.T est fit, then clamp the

formers to the fuselage as shown. Use medium CA

to glue the cabin top formers to the cabin top only.

❏ 11. Use curved-tip plastic-cutting scissors to trim

the cabin top along the molded in cutlines. Star t first

by rough-cutting the cabin top approximately 3/16"

[4.8mm] from the cutlines. Then cut on the outside

edge of the cutlines to leave enough material for fine-

tuning by sanding. Note: Whenever cutting plastic

parts, always cut them slightly oversize. Then they

can be custom-fit by sanding with a bar sander.

❏12.T est fit the cabin top to the fuselage o ver the cabin

frame.Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to sand

the edges of the cabin top wherever necessary to get a

good fit all the way around. Proceed slowly and

carefully to get a nice fit.

- 50 -

❏ 13. Once satisfied with the fit of the cabin top to

the fuselage, roughen the inside of the cabin top with

medium-grit sandpaper where it contacts the cabin

frame.Reposition the cabin top on the fuselage. Use

masking tape to hold it in position wherever

necessary so it will not move.

❏ 14. Glue the cabin top to the cabin frame. As can

be seen in the photo, thick CA is recommended as it

will not wick down past the cabin frame, inadv ertently

gluing it to the fuselage. Medium CA could also be

used. If uncertain, you could use thin, plastic

sandwich wrap between the cabin frame and the

fuselage stringer.When ready to glue, work along the

base, gluing just a few inches at a time. Use a balsa

stick to hold the cabin to the frame as you go. CA

accelerator may be used as necessary.

❏ 15. Once the cabin top has been securely glued to

the cabin frame, loosen the mounting bolts and

remove the cabin top. Make any more adjustments

that may be needed for a good fit, then sand the

fuselage to match the aft end of the cabin top—don’t

trim the front end until the cowl has been fitted and

be careful not to scratch the windows.Other than the

windows, it’ll be okay if you scuff up the cabin top a

little bit because the outside gets painted anyway

and you can sand out the scratches—but do use a

little care not to make too much work for yourself by

deeply scratching the cabin top.

❏ 16.Reinstall the fuel tank. Cut away the section of

the cabin frame below the front cabin top former to

accommodate the fuel tank.

FIT THE T AIL CONE

❏ 1.Test fit, but do not glue the larger part of the die-

cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood former 10C into position.

Trim the former so there will be a 1/32" to 1/16" [.8 to

1.5mm] difference between the for mer and the sides

of the fuselage. After the proper fit has been

achieved, glue the former into position.

❏ 2. Use curved-tip plastic-cutting scissors to cut out

the molded plastic tail cone bottom. Use a rotary

tool with cutting bits or a hobby knife to cut out the

rounded notches for the pushrod and the stabilizer

tube.Remember to cut slightly outside of the cutlines

to allow for trimming and positioning.

- 51 -

❏3.T est fit the tail cone bottom to the fuselage.Little by

little, sand the front edge of the cone where necessary

to get a good fit.Hint: Scuff the outside of the cone with

320-grit sandpaper, then use a lead pencil to mark the

cone where necessary for trimming.

❏ 4. Cut the remainder of the 3/8" x 3/8" [9.5 x

9.5mm] basswood stick used for mounting the flap

and aileron servos into six 3/8" [9.5mm] square tail

cone mounting blocks. Sand an angle on one end

of three of the blocks so that when glued into position

as shown, they will match the angle of the tail cone.

Glue the blocks into position where shown in the

photo and on the plan.

❏5.Reposition the bottom tail cone.Drill 1/16" [1.6mm]

holes through the cone and the mounting blocks.Use a

3/32" [2.4mm] drill to enlarge the holes in the cone only ,

then temporarily mount the bottom cone with three #2 x

3/8" [9.5mm] button head screws.

❏ 6. Glue on the other part of die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

plywood former 10C. Glue a piece of leftover 1/8"

[3.2mm] balsa around the pushrod.Tr im the piece to

match the curvature of 10C.

❏ 7. Cut out the top tail cone. Position, fit and trim

the cone as necessary for a good fit. Note: These

instructions illustrate permanently gluing on the top

tail cone.With the rudder in position the top tail cone

cannot be removed. However, should you prefer to

make the top tail cone removable, this could be done

by mounting the cone with the remaining three

mounting blocks and making the rudder removable

by using removable Robar t hinge pockets.

- 52 -

❏ 8. Cut twenty-four 3/16" x 1/4" [4.8 x 6.4mm]

plastic strips from leftover ABS plastic. Glue the

pieces in alternating locations on both halves of the

tail cone. Be sure to position the strips where they

will not interfere with the mounting blocks or any

structure inside the cone.These pieces will align the

seam.Test fit the top and bottom cone halves. Make

adjustments where necessary.

❏9.Connect the rudder pushrod to the rudder servo by

making an “L” bend in the pushrod and using a nylon

Faslink. Make sure the rudder is centered when the

servo is centered. If necessar y, adjust the clevis on the

rudder.Install a silicone retainer on the clevis.

❏10.If gluing on the cone before painting and co vering,

mount the tail cone bottom to the fuselage, then

carefully glue on the tail cone top using thick or medium

CA. Use great care not to inadvertently glue the top

cone to the bottom cone or to glue the bottom cone to

the fuselage. Use filler where necessar y and sand to

blend the tail cone top and bottom to the fuselage.

❏ 11. If not gluing on the tail cone at this time, tape

one side of the tail cone to the fuselage, then blend

the other side of the fuselage to match the shape of

the tail cone. Shape the other side the same way.

FINAL CONSTRUCTION

MOUNT THE COWL

❏ 1. Mount the muffler. If using the Top Flite muffler,

both the header and the tube coming from the

muffler that connects to the header will have to be

trimmed in order to fit in the space provided.

❏ 2. Note that the cowl is made of three parts—the

top, bottom and front—that will eventually be glued

together. The same as when cutting out the cabin

top, use curved-tip, plastic-cutting scissors to cut out

the cowl top and bottom along the molded-in

cutlines, except along the aft edges where they

meet the fuselage. Cut the cowl top and bottom 1/8"

[3mm] outside the cutlines along the aft edges. This

Decide whether to glue on the tail cone top now

(before painting), or after it has been painted and

the model has been covered. Gluing on the tail

cone top now will provide a seamless transition

between the fuselage and the tail cone top

because the joint can be hidden with filler.If done

this way, the tail cone top will have to be painted

while it is on the model, requiring an airbrush and

good painting skills. (A method for painting

LustreKote with an airbrush is described in the

"Finishing" section of this manual.) Gluing on the

tail cone top after it has been painted will make it

easier to paint, but it will be more difficult to

achieve a perfect transition between the cone top

and the fuselage.Howe v er , this is where a natural

seam exists on the full-size plane anyway, so if

done well, good results can also be achieved with

this method.

- 53 -

will leave material for adjusting the fit of the cowl to

the fuselage. Cut the cowl front 1/8" [3mm] outside

the molded-in cutline as well.

❏ 3.Cut out a small corner from the molded-in lip on

the left side of the front of the cowl top and from the

right side of the front of the cowl bottom. Use a bar

sander with coarse sandpaper to true the edges of

all three cowl parts.Securely tape the three pieces of

the cowl together with masking tape.

❏ 4. Cut eight 3/4" [19mm] cowl mounting blocks

from the 3/8" x 3/8" [9.5 x 9.5mm] basswood stick

leftover from the tail cone mounting blocks and the

servo mounts in the wing. Securely glue the cowl

mounting blocks to the front of the fuselage 1/16"

[1.6mm] from the outer edge to allow for the

thickness of the cowl.

❏ 5. Position the cowl and slip the spinner over the

crankshaft. Note the small balsa sticks that have been

tack glued to the front of the fuselage to align the cowl.

See how the cowl fits the fuselage and spinner. There

are three things to look for:1) whether or not the spinner

is centered in the front of the cowl; 2) the spacing

between the spinner backplate and the cowl;3) the fit of

the cowl to the fuselage.The fit should already be “pretty

close,” but now you have to trim and fit the cowl as

necessary until you get a finished fit. Start by noting

where the aft edge of the cowl needs to be trimmed so

the spinner will be centered. If the spinner is off to the

right side of the cowl, the cowl will need to be shifted

over more tow ard the right.T o achieve this, trim the right

side of the aft edge of the cowl. Remove the cowl and

trim as necessary—if much material has to be removed

use curved-tip scissors, but when you start “zeroing in”

on the fit use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper.

❏6.Once the front of the cowl has been centered on the

spinner, it is time to trim the aft edge of the cowl front to

get an even gap between the back plate of the spinner

and the cowl.Use a bar sander to trim the cowl front as

necessary to achieve the desired fit. Note that trimming

the back of the cowl top and bottom (as done in step 4)

will “steer”the cowl in the correct direction so the spinner

is centered, but trimming the back of the cowl front will

change the spinner gap (between the back plate of the

spinner and the front of the cowl). Take your time and

proceed slowly to get a good fit.

❏ 7. Once cowl alignment has been achieved,

remove the cowl and separate the three pieces. Use

coarse sandpaper to thoroughly sand the inside

and outside of the cowl around the seams so glue

and filler will adhere. Tape the cowl back together.

Use thin and medium CA to permanently glue the

parts together.

❏ 8. Remove the masking tape and refit the cowl to

the fuselage. Make any final trim adjustments

necessary for a good fit between the cowl and the

fuselage and between the cowl and the spinner.

❏ 9. Use coarse sandpaper to thoroughly roughen the

inside of the cowl along the seams between the three

pieces.Use an epo xy brush to apply 30-minute epoxy all

the around the seams, then lay strips of 3/4" [20mm]

fiberglass cloth along the seams. Brush the epoxy

through the glass cloth while brushing the glass cloth

down to the plastic.Allow the epoxy to harden.

- 54 -

❏ 10. Mark the center of the cowl mounting blocks

onto the fuselage.

❏ 11. Tape the cowl to the fuselage. Drill 1/16"

[1.6mm] holes through the cowl and into the cowl

mounting blocks 1/4" [6mm] from the front edge of

the fuselage.

❏ 12. Remove the cowl. Enlarge the holes in the cowl

only with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill.Mount the cowl with eight

#2 x 1/2" [13mm] screws. Optional: The same as was

done for the aileron and flap hatches on the wing, bev el

the opening of the cowl mounting screw holes and

mount the cowl with #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] flat head screws

(not supplied).This makes for a neater appearance, but

requires a little more skill to countersink the holes

without over-enlarging them.

❏ 13. Now that the seams on the inside of the cowl

have been “glassed”and the cowl has been mounted to

the fuselage, it is time to smooth the outside with filler.

Automotive filler such as two-part polyester Bondo is

highly recommended, but don’t build up too much at

once or it will take a long time and be difficult to sand.

Use an expired credit card or something similar to apply

filler where needed, allow to harden, wet sand, and

apply more filler as needed for a smooth appearance.

❏ 14. Mount the cowl to the fuselage and blend the

two together by sanding where necessary.

❏ 15.Apply a coat of primer to the cowl and allow to

dry. Reinstall the cowl and cut all openings

necessary for the glow plug, needle valve, engine

exhaust, etc. One method for locating holes is to

make a template from a piece of cardstock.Tape the

cardstock to the fuselage, then mount the cowl.Mark

the hole in the cardstock onto the cowl, then remove

the cowl and cut the hole.

❏16. Cut the opening in the bottom of the cowl for the

nose gear.If you’ve installed retracts, be certain there is

adequate clearance to allow for right and left steering.

- 55 -

MOUNT THE WING

❏1. Round one end of both 1/4" x 2-1/4" [6.4 x 57mm]

hardwood wing dowels. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue

the dowels into the wing. Allow the epoxy to harden

before fitting the wing to the fuselage.

❏ 2.Using the wing bolt holes that are already in the

top of the wing as a guide, use a 3/16" [4.8mm] brass

tube sharpened on the end or a 3/16" [4.8mm] drill

bit to the holes through the bottom sheeting.

❏3. If you haven’t done so already, use a bar sander

with 80-grit or 150-grit sandpaper to sand the balsa

fuselage sheeting even with the plywood fuselage

doublers and former F3 to accommodate the wing.

Test fit the wing in the fuselage and make any

adjustments necessary for a nice fit.

❏ 4. With the wing in the fuselage, stand six to ten

feet behind the model. View the alignment between

the wing and the stabilizer.If the two are in alignment

proceed to the next step.If the wing and stab do not

align, remove the wing and carefully sand the “high

side” of the wing saddle in the fuselage to bring the

wing into alignment with the stabilizer.

❏ 5. Stick a T-pin into the bottom of the fuselage

centered over the bottom stringer at the rear. Tie a

loop in one end of a 60" [1.5m] piece of non-elastic

line such as monofilament or Kevlar line. K & S #801

Kevlar thread works perfectly for this. Slip the loop in

the string over the T-pin.

❏ 6. Fold a piece of masking tape over the string

near the other end and draw an arrow on it.Slide the

tape along the string and align the arrow with one

end of the wing as shown in the photo. Swing the

string over to the other end of the wing and hold it in

the same position.Rotate the wing as necessary and

slide the tape along the string until both ends are

equalized. Now the wing is centered.

❏ 7. Being careful not to disturb the wing alignment,

drill #7 holes through the wing and the wing bolt

blocks in the fuselage.

- 56 -

❏ 8. Remove the wing. Tap 1/4-20 holes into the

holes drilled in the wing bolt blocks.Add a few drops

of thin CA to the threads, allow to fully harden, then

retap the threads.

❏ 9. Enlarge the bolt holes in the wing with a 17/64"

[6.7mm] drill, then bolt the wing to the fuselage with

two 1/4-20 x 2" [50mm] nylon wing bolts.Cut holes in

the bottom sheeting to accommodate the heads of

the bolts.

❏ 10.Test fit the wing to the fuselage and bolt it down

with two 1/4-20 x 2" [50mm] nylon bolts. See how it

looks and make any adjustments where necessary.

BUILD THE BELLY PAN

❏ 1. Cut a 20" [510mm] belly pan side from a 1/4"

x 3/4" x 30" [6.4 x 19 x 760mm] balsa stick. Make

another belly pan side the same way. Save both 10"

pieces for the front and back.

❏ 2. Mar k the middle of one of the belly pan sides.

Place it on the bottom of the fuselage aligning the

line with the glue joint in the middle of the bottom

sheeting. Lay a ballpoint pen on the bottom of the

wing and mark the curvature of the wing onto the

belly pan side. Also mark the stick at the front and

back of the wing saddle in the fuselage.

❏ 3. Cut the belly pan side at the marks on both

ends, then cut it on the curvature line you marked.

Reposition the belly pan side and mark another

curvature line, then cut again. Once more, mark,

then cut. Now the belly pan side should fit the wing

well.Tr im where necessar y for a good fit.

❏ 4. Make the other belly pan side the same way.

❏ 5. Pin a leftover 3/16" x 3/16" [4.8 x 4.8mm] balsa

stick along one side of the fuselage under the wing.

This will reveal the location of the belly pan side

making a smooth transition between the front and

the back of the wing saddle. Use a ballpoint pen to

draw the location of the belly pan side along the

balsa stick. Mar k the other side of the bottom of the

wing the same way.

❏ 6. Glue the belly pan sides to the bottom of the

wing along the lines.

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

❏ 7. Use the remaining two 1/4" x 3/4" x 10" [6.4 x

19 x 250mm] balsa sticks to make the front and back

of the belly pan. Glue the sticks into position.

Hint: Use thin cardstock to shim the front and back

of the belly pan away from the fuselage.

- 57 -

❏ 8.Glue the eight die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa belly

pan ribs into position as shown. The outer ribs fit

against the belly pan sides.

❏ 9. Mark the location of the wing bolts on the belly

pan sides. Remove the wing from the fuselage.

❏ 10. Sheet the belly pan between the belly pan

sides using three 3/32"x 3"x 24"[2.4 x 75 x 610mm]

balsa sheets.

❏ 11. Using the mar ks you made on the belly pan

sides as an alignment cue, cut holes in the sheeting

for the cardboard wing bolt tubes. Cut two

1"[25mm] wing bolt tubes from the 9/16"[14mm]

cardboard tube. With the wing bolts in position, use

epoxy mixed with microballoons to glue the tubes

into the wing. While the epoxy is hardening twist the

wing bolts occasionally so any epoxy that may have

gotten onto the heads of the bolts will not take a set

and glue them in.

❏ 12. After the epoxy has hardened, trim, then sand

the belly pan sides, front and rear and the wing bolt

tubes even with the belly pan sheeting.Bolt the wing

to the fuselage, then round the corners of the belly

pan to match the fuselage.

FINISH THE MODEL

At this time all of the woodwork, plastic fitting and

most of the systems installation should be complete,

so now it’s time to prepare the model for covering

and painting. Some modelers have their own

preferences as to covering/finishing materials and

the order in which it is all done.The model on the kit

box cover was finished using the following methods.

Follow these techniques or use your own proven

methods to finish your Piper Arrow.

COVERING

❏ 1. Fill low spots, cracks or nicks with balsa filler.

Many small dents in balsa can be repaired without

filler. Use a small dab of water to wet the area and

allow to dry before sanding. Often this is enough to

make the balsa expand thus removing the dent.

❏ 2. Remove any hardware that will interfere with final

sanding, painting or covering such as the landing gear,

engine, etc. Use progressively finer grades of

sandpaper to finish-sand the model. Ending with 400-

grit should be adequate. Use a bar sander or sanding

blocks where necessary to make you don’t over-sand

soft balsa around hard glue joints.

❏ 3.After final-sanding, use a shop-vac with a brush

attachment, a large paint brush, compressed air or a

tack cloth to remove all the balsa dust.

Covering can be quite an undertaking, but

following are some techniques that may assist y ou.

- 58 -

❏ 4.Begin with the fin.Cut a piece of covering to the

approximate shape, but make sure it is at least two

or three inches oversize all the w ay around (e xcept at

the top, where it should align with your trim line (if

you are duplicating the trim scheme on the kit box

cover).Holding the piece of covering to the fin, use a

ballpoint pen to mark the covering where the fin

meets the fuselage.

❏ 5. Cut the covering 3/32"[2.4mm] outside the line.

Wipe off the ink with a paper towel square dampened

with denatured alcohol. Reposition the covering on

the fin, and iron into position. Notice how

approximately 1/8"[3.2mm] of the bottom of the

covering is ironed onto the fuselage.

❏ 6. When ready to cover the fuselage, note that

seams are preferred ov er wrinkles.In other words , do

not attempt to cover the whole side of the fuselage in

one piece. Instead, study the model, consider your

skills and limitations and figure out how many pieces

it will take you to cover any particular par t without

getting any wrinkles. In the case of this fuselage and

the trim scheme chosen, it was decided to cover the

fuselage as shown. One method for making straight

seams is to apply a strip of 1/8"[3mm] paint masking

tape where you want a seam to be.

❏ 7. Apply the covering over the tape, then cut the

covering on top of it. You’ll be able to see the tape

underneath the covering. Peel off the tape and

covering remnant, then iron the covering the rest of

the way down.

❏ 8. Lay another strip of tape over the edge of the

covering already ironed down. Iron down the the next

piece of covering, cut, then peel off the tape.Now you’ll

have a straight seam.

❏ 9. Finish covering the rest of the fuselage.

- 59 -

❏ 10. When covering the wings, start with the wing

tips, then cover belly pan. First cover the front and

back of the belly pan, then apply a 1/4"[6mm] strip of

covering as shown. Now cover the bottom of the

wing, the belly pan and then the top of the wing to

match the trim scheme you have selected.

❏ 11. Flat black MonoKote may be used to simulate

the walkway on the right wing and flap.

❏ 12. When covering the ailerons, flaps and rudder,

don’t forget to cover the corrugations to match your

trim scheme.

❏ 13. Cut a narrow strip of covering from all of the

CA hinge slots in the wing and ailerons and in the fin

and rudder. Without using any glue, temporarily join

the ailerons to the wing, then add the gold striping.

❏ 14. If applying the gold stripes to the fin like the

model on the kit box, first cut the stripes as shown.

Cut them over a cutting mat if you have one.

❏ 15. Apply the stripes to the fin so the excess

material wraps around the leading edge.

❏16. Use a sharp, single-edge razor blade to cut the

covering around the leading edge.

- 60 -

❏ 17. Determine how the gold stripes on the

fuselage will be done. The recommended way is to

use a Top Flite SmartStr ipe stripe cutting tool to cut

1/4"[6.4mm] stripes from gold MonoKote and iron

them into position. It may be helpful to have the “N-

numbers”already in position before applying the gold

stripes. Refer to “Apply the Decals” on page 67 for

suggestions on how to apply them.When it’s time to

add the stripes to the cowl use Great Planes

1/4"[6.4mm] gold striping tape.

PAINTING

Now that the model has been covered, it’s time to

paint the cowl, cabin top and tail cone to match.

❏ 1. Paint the tail cone—a coat of primer is

recommended. Using an airbrush here will provide

the best results. Mask off the rest of the model with

Kyosho (or similar) masking film (KYOR1040).

Kyosho masking film has a “low-tack” tape already

attached to the film and greatly simplifies the

masking procedure.

❏ 2.If necessary, wet-sand the tail cone and apply a

second coat of paint.

❏ 3. Paint the cowl. If necessary apply additional

coats of primer, wet sanding between coats. First

paint the white, then the metallic red.Do not sand the

final coat of metallic red. Apply the gold str iping to

match the fuselage, then spray on a clear coat to

“melt” it all together.

HOW TO PAINT LUSTREKOTE WITH AN AIRBRUSH

MonoKote-matching Top Flite LustreKote paint is

recommended for painting the plastic parts.Howe ver ,

when painting smaller parts (such as the tail cone),

better results can be achieved by applying

LustreKote with an airbrush. An airbrush atomizes

the paint better for finer coverage. However,

LustreKote is av ailable only in a spra y can.T o prepare

LustreKote f or airbrush application, spra y the desired

color through a tube into a cup. Spraying through a

tube will contain the overspra y thus allowing the paint

to drip into a cup. Allow LustreKote to stabilize for

approximately a half-hour stirring a few times in

between. Now the LustreKote may be poured into

your airbrush container.If thinning is desired, we have

had great success using Midwest Aero Gloss

fuelproof dope thinner.This is also a suitable solvent

for cleaning up your airbrush when finished.

- 61 -

❏ 4. Thoroughly scuff the cabin top with 400-grit

sandpaper to remove any deep scratches leftover

from sanding the fuselage and to provide a surface

to which the paint will adhere. Apply strips of tape

where necessary to protect the windows.

❏ 5. After sanding the cabin top, apply strips of

masking tape over the windows .Using the molded-in

window frames as a guide, use a soft, lead pencil to

mark the window outlines onto the tape.Use a sharp

#11 blade to cut on the lines, then peel away the

excess tape leaving the windows masked off. Apply

a coat of primer.Remov e the masking tape , wet sand

the primer, then re mask the windows.Now apply the

color coat. With a little luck and skill all that will be

required will be two coats—one primer coat and one

color coat. IMPORTANT: You can learn from our

mistake! Even though you are painting the outside of

the cabin top, BE CERTAIN to mask off the inside as

well. Any overspray that gets on the inside of the

windows will have to be removed. We haven’t

discovered a solvent that will remove LustreKote

without affecting the plastic as well.

❏ 6. If you want to go all-out, you can do the same

as we did on the model on the kit box cov er and paint

the landing gear too.Disassemble the gear, then use

denatured alcohol to wipe away any grease or oil.

Lightly sand the parts as best you can with 400-grit

sandpaper. Any extra mold flashing will have to be

trimmed off the wheel covers on Robart wheels. Use

an airbrush to spray the landing gear parts. Allow to

dry thoroughly before reassembling.

❏ 7. If you haven’t yet done so, coat the firewall and

the nose gear structure with 30-minute epoxy

thinned with alcohol or fuelproof paint. Also coat the

underside of the top wing sheeting in the flap area (if

you’ve built working flaps).

FINAL ASSEMBLY AND SYSTEMS HOOKUP

We’re finally getting down to the “home stretch” and

pretty soon your Arrow will be ready to take to the air!

❏ 1.If you didn’t use a Great Planes Slot Machine to

cut the hinge slots, drill 3/32"[2.4mm] holes,

1/2"[13mm] deep, through the middle of all the hinge

slots to allow the CA to wick all the way to the back

of the hinge. Drilling holes is not necessary if the

hinge slots were cut with a Slot Machine.

❏ 2. Fit the ailerons to the wing with the CA hinges.

If any of the hinges don’t remain centered, stick a T-

pin through the middle of the hinges, then join the

ailerons and remove the T-pins.

- 62 -

❏ 3. Adjust the ailerons so there is a small gap

between the leading edge of the ailerons and the

wing—just enough to see light through or to slip a

piece of paper through. Apply six drops of thin CA to

both sides of all the hinges. Wait a few seconds

before each drop to make sure it soaks in and does

not run into the hinge gap.Any CA that does spill into

the gap should quickly be absorbed with a small

paper towel square. Hardened CA can be picked

away with a #11 b lade or remov ed with CA debonder .

❏ 4.Join the rudder to the fin the same way, but first

coat the “arm”portion of the rudder torque rod and fill

the hole in the rudder with 30-minute epoxy. Join the

rudder to the fin and the torque rod with the hinges,

wipe away excess epoxy, then permanently glue in

the hinges.

❏ 5. Use 30-minute epoxy to securely glue the flap

hinges in the wing and flaps. Make sure the trailing

edges of the flaps are aligned with the ailerons and

the wing at the center section. Use tape to hold the

flaps in position until the epoxy hardens.

❏ 6. Reinstall the engine and muffler. If you have not

done so already, connect the fuel lines from the fuel

tank to the engine. Rather than using a fuel filler valve,

a third filling line was connected to the tank. The line

was guided through a 1/4"[6.4mm] O.D. brass tube

glued through the bottom of the fuselage and closed off

with a Great Planes fuel line plug (GPMQ4166). With

the fuel line plug inserted, the line will stay in place

when pushed up into the brass tube.

❏ 7.The easiest way to operate the aileron servos is

to connect both servos to the same socket in the

receiver using a Y-connector. To do it this way,

connect each aileron servo to a Hobbico 24"[610mm]

extension wire. Secure the connections with heat

shrink tubing, tape or clips suitable for that purpose.

Guide the wires through the wing and out the hole in

the top of the center section. Now connect both

aileron servo wires to a Futaba dual servo extension

cord.Mount the aileron hatches to the wing and hook

up the ailerons with the pushrods you made earlier

during construction.

❏ 8.The flaps may be connected using a Y-harness,

or, if you have a computer radio capable of doing so,

the flaps may be mixed electronically (but this

shouldn’t be necessary). To mix the flaps with a

Y-harness, it’ s easiest to get one flap set up first, then

get the other one to match. This will require

connecting the flap servos to the receiver so they

can be operated by the transmitter. First position the

servo arm on the servo, then make the pushrod and

cut it to the correct length. Now adjust the endpoints

so the correct flap throw can be achieved. Set up the

other flap to match the first.

- 63 -

❏ 9. Now that the servos have been installed in the

wing, guide the air lines for the retracts through the

wing, then connect the lines to the retracts.

Whichever way you connect the colored lines, hook

them up the same on both landing gears. Mount the

landing gear in the wing.

❏10.Glue strips of plastic or balsa across the openings

in the wing to retain the air lines and the servo wires so

they will not interfere with the landing gear.

❏ 11. Mount the air tank in the fuselage. Use RTV

silicone or epoxy to glue it in place.

❏12. Glue pieces of leftover pushrod guide tubing to

the back of the servo rail, then guide the air line

coming from the air tank through the tubes.

❏ 13. Cut rounded notches near the top of the

formers as shown. These will accommodate the air

line from the tank and the rudder and stabilizer servo

wires when the cockpit kit has been installed.

❏ 14. Make a battery mounting plate from leftover

plywood, then glue hardwood sticks across the

bottom. Mount the receiver battery to the plate using

rubber bands with R/C foam rubber in between.

Securely glue the battery inside the fuselage where

shown on the plan, or in another strategic location.

- 64 -

❏ 15. Make a mount for the air fill receptacle. Use a

5/16"[8mm] brass tube to cut a hole through the

fuselage for the valv e , then glue the mount to the inside

of the fuselage with the fill receptacle in the hole.

❏ 16.The same as was done for the battery, mak e a

mounting plate for the receiver. Mount the receiver,

then glue the mount into position.

Note:The three 6"[150mm] servo extensions coming

from the receiver protruding through former F3

should actually be 12"[300mm] servo extensions.

Label strips of masking tape wrapped around the

servo extensions for identification.

❏ 17. The receiver antenna may be routed down

through the fuselage through small holes drilled in

the formers, or mounted externally. The way we

mounted ours was via an Ernst #153 Antenna Exit

Guide. Rather than using the hook included with the

antenna, the hole in the mount was enlarged to

accommodate a small piece of tubing (taken from a

compressed air spray can).The antenna was guided

up through the tubing. This also presents a

somewhat scale appearance.

❏ 18. Connect the air lines to the nose gear, then

mount the gear.

❏ 19.Use a 1/8"[3.2mm] drill or a 1/8"[3.2mm] brass

tube sharpened on one end to cut holes where

necessary to guide all of the air lines to the control

valve.The two “up” lines in the wing are joined to a

Robart T-fitting.The remaining, open fitting on the “T”

is connected to a few inches of line with a Robart

quick-disconnect on the end.The “down” lines in the

wing are treated the same way. In the fuselage, the

up line coming from the nose gear is connected to

another T-fitting. One of the open ends of the T-fitting

is connected to another segment of line with another

quick-disconnect which, when joining the wing to the

fuselage at the flying field, will be connected to the

quick-disconnect coming from the up line in the wing.

The remaining end of the T-fitting is connected to the

control valve via another piece of air line. Connect

the other nose gear down line to another quick-

disconnect and the control valve via another T-fitting

the same way.

❏ 20. Connect the fill receptacle to the line coming

from the air tank and to the air valve via one more

T-fitting. Be certain all of the lines are securely

connected and that none of the air lines will interfere

with any of the other systems.

❏ 21. Connect the rudder and stabilizer servos to

12"[305mm] servo extensions. Secure the

connections with heat shrink tubing, tape or special

clips suitable for that purpose.Connect the servos to

the receiver.

❏ 22. Hook up the nose steering servo, the throttle

servo and the air control valve servo using the

hardware shown.

Here is an overall shot of the radio installation

and servo hookup in this area.

- 65 -

❏23. If you have not done so already, assemble, paint

and install the cockpit kit according to the instructions

included with it. Guide and secure the aileron and flap

servo extensions under the cockpit floor.

MOUNT THE PILOTS

Two Williams Brother’s #62600 Sportsman 3"(1/4-

scale) pilots (WBRQ2626) were mounted in this

model.Even though the model is slightly smaller than

quarter-scale, these pilots look best.

❏ 1. Make a mounting platform from leftover

3/32"hard balsa. The platform fits between the

fuselage side stringers and will be glued to the

bottom of the cabin frame. Paint the platform flat

black. Note that the sides have been masked from

the paint to expose the wood for a better glue joint to

the bottom of the cabin frame.

❏ 2. Cut a notch in the outer shoulder of both pilots

to accommodate the cabin frame.

❏ 3.Shape, then glue sheets of leftov er 1/8"[3.2mm]

plywood inside the base of both pilots.

❏ 4.Glue the mounting platform to the bottom of the

cabin frame. Be certain the platform will fit between

the fuselage side stringers when the cabin top is on

the fuselage.

❏ 5. Place one of the pilots on the platform. Dr ill two

3/32"[2.4mm] holes through the platform and the

bottom of the pilot. Enlarge the holes in the platform,

then mount the pilot to the platform with two #4 x

1/2"[13mm] screws and washers (not included).

❏ 6. Mount the other pilot the same way.

- 66 -

GLUE ON THE EXTERNAL STRINGERS

The Piper Arrow has four exter nal stringers running

partway down the bottom of the fuselage.The same

as a few of the other scale details on this model, the

stringers are optional.

❏ 1. Cut the stringers to the correct length. They run

from the aft edge of the cowl to about the leading

edge of the flaps.

❏ 2. Paint the stringers to match the trim scheme.

❏3. Carefully glue the stringers into position using thin

CA.Hint: Before gluing the stringers into position, poke

several pinholes through the covering to permanently

bond the covering to the wood underneath. This will

also help the stringers remain secure.

APPL Y THE DECALS

1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the

decals from the sheet.

2. Be cer tain the model is clean and free from oily

fingerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small

bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and war m

water—about one teaspoon of soap per gallon of

water. Submerse one of the decals in the soap and

water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even

though the decals have a “sticky-back” and are not

the water transfer type, submersing them in soap &

water allows accurate positioning and reduces air

bubbles underneath.

3. Position the decal on the model where desired.

Holding the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe

most of the water away.

4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to

squeegee remaining water from under the decal.

Apply the rest of the decals the same way.

ADD PANEL LINES

❏ Panel lines and rivets are supplied on the decal

sheet.They can also be added with a Top Flite Panel

Line Pen (TOPQ2510) or by cutting thin lines from

MonoKote and ironing them on. The panel lines in

the photo were inked on.Ironed-on lines will be more

permanent and will not “smudge” as will the inked-on

lines over time. Use a Top Flite Scale Template

(TOPR2187) for making rivets and other details with

the Panel Line Pen.

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

CENTER THE CONTR OLS & CHECK THE DIRECTIONS

❏ 1.Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center

the trims. If necessary, reposition any servo arms

that aren’t centered. Don’t forget to reinstall the

screws that hold on the servo arms.

❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check

the flaps, rudder and ailerons to see if they are

centered. If necessary, adjust the clevises on the

pushrods to center the control surfaces.

NOW

it’s time to setup the stabilizer…

❏ 3. Remove the bottom tail cone. With the radio on

and the stabilizer trim centered, adjust the clevis on

- 67 -

Stabilizer

the servo end of the stabilizer pushrod until the top

of the stabilizer control rod is even with the seam

between the top and bottom stabilizer mounts. A

piece of wire with an L-bend on the end can be used

as a “gauge.” With the gauge under the control rod,

adjust the elevator until the top of the gauge is even

with the seam. Note: The plane in the sketch is

upside-down because the model will be upside-down

during this procedure.

❏ 4. Now that the stabilizer has been set up, secure

the nut on the bellcrank with threadlocker. Also lock

the wheel collars that are on both sides of the swivel

clevis onto the stabilizer control rod.Use a small drop

of threadlocker on both set screws in the collars.

❏ 5. Make cer tain that the control surfaces and the

carburetor respond in the correct direction as shown

in the diagram. If any of the controls respond in the

wrong direction, use the servo reversing in the

transmitter to reverse the servos connected to those

controls. Be certain the control surfaces have

remained centered. Adjust if necessar y.

SET THE CONTROL THRO WS

❏ Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to

accurately measure and set the control throw of each

control surface as indicated in the chart that follows.

A ruler will have to be used on the stabilizer.

RECOMMENDED CONTROL SURFACE THROWS

IMPORTANT: The Piper Arrow has been

extensively flown and tested to arrive at the

throws at which it flies best. Flying your model at

these throws will provide you with the greatest

chance for successful first flights.If, after you have

become accustomed to the way the Arrow flies,

you would like to change the throws to suit your

taste, that is fine.Howe v er, too much control throw

could make the model difficult to control, so

remember, “more is not always better.”

HIGH RATE LOW RATE

AILERONS 7/8"[22mm] up 1/2"[13mm] up

7/8"[22mm] down 1/2"[13mm] down

STABILIZER 1/2"[13mm] up 1/4"[6mm] up

1/2"[13mm] down 1/4"[6mm] down

RUDDER 1"[25mm] right 3/4"[19mm] right

1"[25mm] left 3/4"[19mm] left

FLAPS 1-1/2"[38mm] full down

- 68 -

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

BALANCE THE MODEL (C.G.)

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly

condition with all of the systems in place including

the engine, propeller and spinner, landing gear,

covering and paint, and the radio system. The fuel

tank should be empty.

❏ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8"[3mm]-wide tape to

accurately mark the C.G. on the top of the wing at the

joint between the center section and outer panels on

both sides of the fuselage. The C.G. is located

3-13/16"[97mm] back from the leading edge of the wing.

❏ 2.With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts

of the model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel

tank, place the model upside-down on a Great

Planes CG Machine, or lift it upside-down at the

balance point you marked.

❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the

battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or

weight must be added to the nose to balance.If the nose

drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack

and/or receiver must be shifted aft or weight must be

added to the tail to balance. If additional weight is

required, nose weight may be easily added by using a

“spinner weight”(GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz.[28g] weight,

or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. [57g] weight). If spinner

weight is not practical or is not enough, use Great

Planes (GPMQ4485) “stic k-on” lead. A good place to

add stick-on nose weight is to the firewall (don’t attach

weight to the cowl—it is not intended to support weight).

Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts of

weight on the bottom of the fuse over the fire wall until the

model balances.Once you ha ve determined the amount

of weight required, it can be permanently attached. If

required, tail weight may be added by cutting open the

bottom of the fuse and gluing it permanently inside.

Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of

the lead weight to permanently hold it in place. Over

time, fuel and exhaust residue may soften the

adhesive and cause the weight to fall off. Use #2

sheet metal screws, RTV silicone or epoxy to

permanently hold the weight in place.

❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add

any weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has

been installed.

BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY

❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you

lift the model by the engine propeller shaft and the

bottom of the fuse under the trailing edge of the fin.

Do this several times.

❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the

model, it means that side is heavy. Balance the

airplane by adding weight to the other wing tip. An

airplane that has been laterally balanced will

track better in loops and other maneuvers.

PREFLIGHT

IDENTIFY Y OUR MODEL

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club

site or if you fly somewhere on your o wn, you should

always have your name, address, telephone number

and AMA number on or inside your model. It is

required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA

sanctioned flying events .Fill out the identification tag

on page 73 and place it on or inside your model.

CHARGE THE BA TTERIES

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with

your radio control system to charge the batteries.You

should always charge your transmitter and receiver

batteries the night before you go flying, and at other

times as recommended by the radio manufacturer

CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with

your radio system state differently, the initial

charge on new transmitter and receiver batteries

should be done for 15 hours using the slow-

charger that came with the radio system.This

will “condition” the batteries so that the next

charge may be done using the fast-charger of

your choice. If the initial charge is done with a

fast-charger the batteries may not reach their full

capacity and you may be flying with batteries that

are only partially charged.

This is where your model should balance for the first

flights.Later, y ou may wish to experiment by shifting

the C.G. up to 3/8"[10mm] forward or 3/8"[10mm]

back to change the flying characteristics.Moving the

C.G. forward may improve the smoothness and

stability , b ut the model may then require more speed

for takeoff and make it more difficult to slow for

landing. Moving the C.G.aft makes the model more

maneuverable, but could also cause it to become

too difficult to control. In any case, start at the

recommended balance point and do not at any

time balance the model outside the specified range.

More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance

point) can have the greatesteffect on how a model

flies, and may determine whether or not your first

flight will be successful.If you value this model and

wish to enjoy it for many flights, DO NOT

OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE.

A model that is not properly balanced will be

unstable and possibly unflyable.

- 69 -

[97mm]

BALANCE PROPELLERS

Carefully balance your propeller and spare

propellers before you fly. An unbalanced prop can be

the single most significant cause of vibration that can

damage your model. Not only will engine mounting

screws and bolts loosen, possibly with disastrous

effect, but vibration may also damage your radio

receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your

fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to

run hot or quit.W e use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic

Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and

keep a Great Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer

(GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

GROUND CHECK

If the engine is new, follow the engine

manufacturer’s instructions to break-in the

engine. After break-in, confirm that the engine idles

reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly to full power

and maintains full power—indefinitely. After you run

the engine on the model, inspect the model closely

to make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges

are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods and

connectors are secure.

RANGE CHECK

Ground check the operational range of your radio

before the first flight of the day. With the transmitter

antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter

on, you should be able to walk at least 100 f eet a w a y

from the model and still have control. Have an

assistant stand by your model and, while you work

the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are

doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at

various speeds with an assistant holding the model,

using hand signals to show you what is happening.

If the control surfaces do not respond correctly, do

not fly! Find and correct the problem first. Look for

loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded

wires on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in

your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged

receiver crystal from a previous crash.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high

heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable.Do

not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember

that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly

carbon monoxide.Therefore do not run the engine

in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to

operate engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.

Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or

sand; the propeller may throw such material in your

face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators

away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as

you start and run the engine.

Keep these items aw ay from the prop:loose clothing,

shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects

such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of

shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric star ter to start the

engine. Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller.

Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is

secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into

the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the

rotating propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right

after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good

condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine,

causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing

off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s

recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any

other body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a

gasoline powered engine an on/off switch should be

connected to the engine coil.Do not throw anything into

the propeller of a running engine.

AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)

Read and abide by the following excerpts from the

Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code.For the

complete Safety Code refer to

Model Aviation

magazine, the AMA web site or the Code that came

with your AMA license.

GENERAL

1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned

events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations

until it has been proven to be airworthy by having

been previously, successfully flight tested.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than

approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport

without notifying the airport operator. I will give right-

of-way and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale

aircraft. Where necessary, an observer shall be

utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly

in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

Failure to follow these safety precautions may

result in severe injury to yourself and others.

- 70 -

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules

for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and

deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless

and/or dangerous manner.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my

name and address or AMA number, on or in the

model. Note: This does not apply to models while

being flown indoors.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any

device that explodes , burns, or propels a projectile of

any kind).

RADIO CONTROL

1) I will have completed a successful radio

equipment ground check before the first flight of a

new or repaired model.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of

spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless

assisted by an experienced helper.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must

be established in front of which all flying takes place

with the other side for spectators. Only personnel

involved with flying the aircraft are allowed at or in

the front of the flight line.Intentional flying behind the

flight line is prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control

frequencies currently allowed by the Federal

Communications Commission.

5) I will not knowingly operate my model within

three miles of any pre-existing flying site except in

accordance with the frequency sharing agreement

listed [in the complete AMA Safety Code].

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other

person touch a powered model in flight; nor should

any part of the model other than the landing

gear, intentionally touch the ground, except

while landing.

IMAA CODE

IMAA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)

Since the Piper Arrow qualifies as a “giant-scale”

model and is therefore eligible to fly in IMAA

events, we’ve printed excerpts from the IMAA

Safety Code that may apply to this model.

What is Giant-Scale?

The concept of large or giant-scale is generally

considered to apply to radio controlled model aircraft

with minimum wingspans of 80 inches for

monoplanes and 60 inches for multi-wing aircraft.

Quarter-scale or larger replicas of person-carrying

aircraft with proper documentation (minimum 3-view

drawing) which do not fit the size requirements will

also be permitted.

SECTION 1.0: SAFETY STANDARD

1.1 Adherence to Code: The purpose of this Safety

Code is to provide a structure whereby all

participants, including spectators, will be aware of

the inherent dangers in the operation of radio

controlled aircraft. This code is meant to ser ve as a

minimum guideline to all participants.It is understood

that the ultimate responsibility for the safety of any

aircraft lies with the owner(s), pilot(s) and

spectator(s) involved in any event. It is the

responsibility of all participants to exercise caution

when operating, or observing the operation of all

radio controlled aircraft.The pilot/owner of an aircraft

will not be dissuaded from taking whatever steps

they deem necessary, in addition to this code, to

insure that their aircraft is safe.

The most current AMA Safety Code in effect is to

be observed.

SECTION 3.0: SAFETY REVIEW

3.4 Flight Testing: All aircraft are to have been flight

tested and flight trimmed with a minimum of six (6)

flights before the model is allowed to fly at an IMAA

Sanctioned event.

3.5 Proof of Flight:The completing and signing of the

Declaration section of the Safety Review form (see

Section 3.2) by the pilot (or owner) shall document,

as fact, that the noted aircraft has been successfully

flight-tested and proven airworthy prior to the

IMAA event.

Section 4.0: SPOTTER/HELPER

4.1 Spotter/Helper Definition: An assistant to aid the

pilot during start-up, and taxing onto the runway.The

spotter/helper will assist the pilot in completing a

safe flight.

4.2 Each pilot is required to have a spotter/helper at

all IMAA sanctioned events. The event Safety

Committee should be prepared to assist those pilots

who do not have a spotter/helper to make sure that

every registered pilot has the opportunity to fly at a

sanctioned event.

SECTION 5.0: EMERGENCY ENGINE SHUT OFF

(Kill Switch)

5.3 There must also be a means to stop the engine

from the transmitter.The most common method is to

completely close the carburetor throat using throttle

trim, however other methods are acceptable. This

requirement applies to all glow/gas ignition engines

regardless of size.

- 71 -

SECTION 6.0: RADIO REQUIREMENTS

All transmitters must be FCC type certified.

6.2 FCC Technician or higher-class license required

for 6 meter band operation only.

The following recommendations are included in the

Safety Code not to police such items, but rather to

offer basic suggestions for enhanced safety. It is

expected that IMAA members will avail themselves

of technological advances as such become

available, to promote the safety of all aircraft and

participants.

Servos need to be of a rating capable to handle the

loads that the control surfaces impose upon the

servos. Standard servos are not recommended for

control surfaces. Servos should be rated heavy-duty

ounces of torque.For flight-critical control functions a

minimum of 45 inch/ounces of torque should be

considered. This should be considered a minimum

for smaller aircraft and higher torque servos are

strongly encouraged for larger aircraft. The use of

one servo for each aileron and one for each stabiliz er

half is strongly recommended. Use of dual ser vos is

also recommended on larger aircraft.

On-board batteries should be, at a minimum, 1000

mAh up to 20 lbs., 1200 mAh to 30 lbs., 1800 mAh to

40 lbs., and 2000 mAh over 40 lbs .flying weight.The

number and size of servos, size and loads on control

surfaces, and added features should be considered

as an increase to these minimums. Batteries should

be able to sustain power to the onboard radio

components for a minimum of one hour total flying

time before recharging.

CHECK LIST

❏ 1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust

residue such as the firewall and engine area,

the wing saddle area, the cardboard wing bolt

tubes, wheel wells, etc.

❏ 2. Check the C.G.according to the measurements

provided in the manual.

❏ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely

mounted. Simply stuffing them into place with

foam rubber is not sufficient.

❏ 4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it

has a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep

tension off the solder joint inside the receiver.

❏ 5. Balance your model

laterally

as explained in

the instructions.

❏ 6. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical

fasteners such as the set screws that hold the

wheel axles to the struts, screws that hold the

carburetor arm (if applicable), screw-lock

pushrod connectors, etc.

❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will

turn freely.

❏8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.

❏ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA

where appropriate (servo mounting screws,

cowl mounting screws, etc.).

❏ 10. Confir m that all controls operate in the correct

direction and the throws are set up according

to the manual.

❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all

the clevises and that all servo arms are

secured to the servos with the screws

included with your radio.

❏ 12. Secure connections between ser vo wires and

Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the

connection between your battery pack and the

on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing

or special clips suitable for that purpose.

❏ 13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may

have used do not interfere with other systems

(servo arms, pushrods, landing gear, etc.).

❏ 14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler

with high temp RTV silicone, thread locking

compound or J.B.Weld.

❏ 15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and

are not kinked.

❏ 16. Use an incidence meter to check the wing for

twists and attempt to correct before flying.

❏ 17. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).

❏ 18.Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.

❏ 19. Place your name, address, AMA number and

telephone number on or inside your model.

❏ 20. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary)

and make sure it is fully charged.

❏ 21. If you wish to photograph your model, do so

before your first flight.

❏ 22. Range check your radio when you get to the

flying field.

FLYING

The Arrow is a great-flying model that flies smoothly

and predictably. The Arrow does not, however,

possess the self-recovery characteristics of a

primary R/C trainer and should be flown only by

experienced R/C pilots.

Fuel Mixture Adjustments

A fully cowled engine may run at a higher

temperature than an un-cowled engine.For this

During the last few moments of preparation your

mind may be elsewhere anticipating the

excitement of the first flight. Because of this, you

may be more likely to ov erlook certain checks and

procedures that should be performed before the

model is flown. To help avoid this, a checklist is

provided to make sure these important areas are

not overlooked. Many are covered in the

instruction manual, so where appropriate, refer to

the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to

check the items off as they are completed.

- 72 -

reason, the fuel mixture should be richened so the

engine runs at about 200 rpm below peak speed. By

running the engine slightly rich, you will help prevent

dead-stick landings caused by overheating.

TAKEOFF

Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model

handles on the ground by doing a few practice runs

at low speeds on the runway. Make sure the model

rolls straight down the runway and make any trim

adjustments necessary to get it to go straight. If you

need to take a break before the maiden flight, shut

off the engine and bring the model back into the pits.

Top off the fuel, then check all fasteners and control

linkages for peace of mind.

Remember to takeoff into the wind. When ready,

point the model straight down the runway, then

gradually advance the throttle.Gain as much speed

as your runway and flying site will practically allow

before gently applying up elevator and lifting the

model into the air. A small amount of right rudder

may be required to correct engine torque to keep the

wings level.Be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing

the model to establish a gentle climb to a safe

altitude before turning into the traffic pattern.

FLIGHT

For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic,

it is a good idea to have an assistant on the flight line

with you.Tell him to remind you to throttle back once

the plane gets to a comfortable altitude. While full

throttle is usually desirable for takeoff, most models

fly more smoothly at reduced speeds.

Take it easy for the first few flights, gradually getting

acquainted with the model as you gain confidence.

Adjust the trims to maintain straight-and-level flight.

After flying around for a while, and while still at a saf e

altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow flight and

extend the flaps to see how the model reacts. Add

power to see how the model climbs as well.Continue

to fly around, working the controls and executing

various maneuvers and making mental notes (or

having your assistant write them down) of what trim

or C.G. changes may be required to fine tune the

model so it flies the way you lik e.Mind your fuel level,

but use this first flight to become familiar with your

model before landing.

LANDING

To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on

the downwind leg, allow the model to slow, then extend

the flaps.Allow the nose of the model to pitch do wnward

to gradually bleed off altitude.Continue to lose altitude,

but maintain airspeed by keeping the nose do wn as you

turn onto the crosswind leg.Make your final turn toward

the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to

maintain airspeed and control.When landing with flaps,

keep a few additional “clicks” of throttle to maintain

airspeed.Lev el the attitude when the model reaches the

runway threshold, modulating the throttle as necessary

to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If you are

going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle , allow

the model to gain speed, retract the flaps and climb out

to make another attempt. When you’re ready to make

your landing flare and the model is a foot or so off the

deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it the wheels

gently touch down. Once the model is on the runway

and has lost flying speed, relax the elevator and taxi the

model back. Examine the model and make any

mechanical adjustments necessary so the trims can be

returned to center.

One final note about flying your model. Have a goal or

flight plan in mind for every flight.This can be learning a

new maneuver(s), improving a maneuv er(s) you already

know, or learning how the model behaves in certain

conditions (such as on high or low rates). This is not

necessarily to improve your skills (

though it is never a

bad idea!)

, but more importantly so you do not surprise

yourself by impulsively attempting a maneuver and

suddenly finding that you’ve run out of time, altitude or

airspeed. Every maneuver should be deliberate, not

impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a loop,

check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating

rudder corrections that will be required to maintain

heading), remember to throttle back at the top, and

make certain you are on the desired rates (high/low

rates). A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of

crashing your model just because of poor planning and

impulsive moves. Remember to think.

Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in

a safe manner.

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL

R/C

AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice an

alarming or unusual sound such as a low-pitched

“buzz,” this may indicate control surface

flutter.

Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an

aileron or elevator) or a flying surface (such as a

wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus

causing the noise). In extreme cases, if not

detected immediately, flutter can actually cause

the control surface to detach or the flying surface

to fail, thus causing loss of control followed by an

impending crash.The best thing to do when flutter

is detected is to slow the model immediately by

reducing power, then land as soon as safely

possible. Identify which surface fluttered (so the

problem may be resolved) by checking all the

servo grommets for deterioration or signs of

vibration. Make certain all pushrod linkages are

secure and free of play. If it fluttered once, under

similar circumstances it will probably flutter again

unless the problem is fixed. Some things which

can cause flutter are; Excessive hinge gap; Not

mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis

pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods caused by

large bends; Excessive free play in servo gears;

Insecure servo mounting; and one of the most

prevalent causes of flutter; Flying an over-

powered model at excessive speeds.

- 73 -

This model belongs to:

Name

Address

City, State Zip

Phone number

AMA number

Fill in and

place in

your model.

- 74 -

Top Flite

®

Piper Arrow II Cockpit Kit (TOPQ8414)

Add a detailed cockpit to your Piper Arrow II, and you'll win

raves on the g round and in the air.Lightweight styrene plastic

parts assemble with CA and finish with enamel paints.

Completion takes just a few short hours, but leaves the

impression that your plane just arrived fresh from the factory.

Features include floor, sides, seats and seatbelt material,

cockpit deck -- even instrument panel. Any time is the right

one to add a cockpit kit.You can install it while you're building

or retrofit after your masterpiece is already complete.

Great Planes

®

Super Stearman 1.20 ARF (GPMA1350)

Long considered the "classic" biplane, the Super Stearman

still thrills onlookers with its aerobatics. This 71.5" span,

IMAA-legal scale model has extraordinary attention to detail.

All main sections feature built-up balsa and ply construction,

covered in MonoKote film, and accented by a painted

fiberglass cowl, wheel pants and landing gear fairings.Other

scale touches include a dummy radial engine, polished

aluminum spinner and a pair of painted scale pilot figures. A

plywood ring glued inside the cowl strengthens the nose

assembly and eliminates visible screw heads. Four ailerons

help give this Stearman "super" agility, especially when each

is powered by its own servo. A steerable tailwheel aids in

ground handling.

Top Wingspan:71.5 in (1815mm)

Bottom Wingspan: 69 in (1755mm)

Total Wing Area: 1466 sq in (94.6dm2)

Weight: 14-15 lb (6.35-6.8kg)

Wing Loading: 22-23.5 oz/sq ft (67-72g/dm2)

Length: 56.75 in (1441mm)

Requires: 2-stroke or 4-stroke .91-1.20 cu in

(15-19.5cc) engine, 4-channel radio w/5-7 servos

- 75 -

Top Flite

®

Gold Edition

™

Giant P-51D Mustang ARF

(TOPA0700)

The P-51D Mustang has a well-earned reputation as America's

favorite fighter -- and Top Flite captures every aspect of the

warbird's profile and performance in a large 1/4 scale ARF

replica that can be flying sorties in as little as 25-30 hours! The

prebuilt, fully sheeted main sections are MonoKote-covered,

while the cowl and wing fillets are prepainted fiberglass. Fixed

wire landing gear is supplied, but you can substitute optional

Robart retracts with functional landing gear doors. The large

dimensions increase flight visibility and make for effortless

installation of on-board radio gear. When powered by a 41cc

gasoline engine, the Giant P-51D ARF executes dogfight

maneuvers with realistic WWII drama!

Great Planes

®

Giant Super Chipmunk 1.20 ARF

(GPMA1303)

Art Scholl performed airshow magic with his Super Chipmunk

for over 25 years. And with the help of Great Planes' magic,

you can have this scale replica ready to perform in just 12-15

hours. The trim scheme is authentic, provided by MonoKote

on the built-up wings and stab and paint on the fiberglass

fuselage, cowl, wheel pants and landing gear fairings.

Instrument panel decals and a pilot figure provide extra "eye

candy" without extra work. Routing tubes for pushrods, a

3-piece wing and a steerable tailwheel offer added ease on

the ground. Dual servos on each flap, aileron and elevator

half put the power to dazzle a crowd at your finger tips.

Manufactured under license by Pennzoil-Quaker State Company, 2004.

Hobbico, Inc.2904 Research Rd, Champaign, IL 61826.

Wingspan: 84.5 in (2140mm)

Wing Area: 1245 sq in (80.3dm2)

Weight: 17.5-19 lb (7.9-8.6kg)

Wing Loading: 32-35 oz/sq ft (98-107 g/dm2)

Length: 73.5 in (1865mm)

Requires: 5-7 Channel radio with 9-11 servos; 2.1-

2.8 cu in (34.5-46cc)

2-stroke glow engine or 2.5-4.3 cu in (41-70cc)

spark ignition gasoline engine

Wingspan: 81 in (2060mm)

Wing Area: 1000 sq in (64.5dm2)

Weight: 13-14 lb (5.9-6.35kg)

Wing Loading: 29-32 oz/sq ft (89-95g/dm2)

Length: 62.5 in (1590mm)

Requires: 2-stroke .91-1.08 cu in (15-17.5cc) or

4-stroke 1.20 cu in (19.5cc) engine,

5-channel radio w/7 standard servos

2 - View Drawing

Use this drawing for trim scheme planning only.

Not suitable for scale documentation.

BOTTOM

TOP