Top Flite P-47D THUNDERBOLT User Manual
WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both
materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final
user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all
resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the
buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
P476P03 V2.1
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Entire Contents © Copyright 2002
Top Flite Models
P.O. Box 788
Urbana, IL 61801
Technical Assistance - Call (217) 398-8970
USA
M
A
D
E
IN
™
Introduction.........................................................3
About the airfoils.................................................3
Precautions..........................................................3
Decisions you must make early in the building
process ................................................................4
Engine selection................................................4
Razorback or Bubble canopy ............................4
Retracts or fixed gear........................................4
Wheel selection.................................................4
Flaps..................................................................4
Top Flite Scale Accessories...............................5
Scale Cockpit Interior ........................................5
Replica Radial Engine.......................................5
Static Display Prop............................................5
Drop Tanks........................................................5
Notes for the competition Minded modelers
and deviations from scale..................................5
Documentation....................................................5
Other Items required...........................................5
Optional.............................................................5
Suggested Supplies and
Tools .................................................................6
Die-Cut Patterns Page ...................................7-8
Common Abbreviations Used in the
Book and on the plans.......................................9
Metric Conversion Chart....................................9
Types Of Wood..................................................9
Get Ready to build.............................................9
Build the Tail Surfaces .......................................9
Build the stabilizer and elevators.......................9
Build the fin and rudder ...................................13
Build the Fuselage............................................15
Top Frame Assembly ......................................15
Razorback....................................................16
Bubble Canopy.............................................17
Glue the stabilizer and fin to the fuselage... 18
Complete The Fuse Top Razorback ............19
Complete The Fuse Top Bubble Canopy.....20
Final fit the canopy Razorback.....................20
Final fit the canopy Bubble Canopy .............20
Final steps before framing the lower fuse........21
Frame the fuse bottom ....................................21
Tail Gear Installation ...................................22
Fit the intercooler air exits............................24
Sheet the fuse bottom..................................25
Install the engine .............................................26
Install servo tray ..............................................27
Build the wing....................................................28
Preparation......................................................28
Retract modification for Century Jet Retracts..28
Build the wing panels.......................................29
Join the wing panels........................................33
Preparations before adding bottom
wing sheeting...................................................34
Sheet the bottom of the wing...........................34
Prepare the wing for the top sheeting..............35
Sheet the top of the wing.................................37
Build the flaps..................................................38
Fit the flaps......................................................39
Build the ailerons.............................................40
Mount the wing to the fuse...............................41
Build the wing fillet...........................................42
Build the wing belly pan...................................43
Sheet the belly pan..........................................44
Build and fit the cowl........................................45
Finish preparation.............................................46
Final sanding ..................................................46
Fuelproofing.....................................................46
Balance the airplane Laterally.........................46
Finishing............................................................46
Covering..........................................................46
Recommended Covering Sequence................47
Apply the decals..............................................47
Apply panel lines to the model.........................48
Painting............................................................48
Hinging ............................................................48
Final Assembly..................................................49
Retracts...........................................................49
Cockpit finishing ..............................................50
Optional cockpit interior...................................50
Add the molded scale details...........................50
Install receiver, switch and battery ..................51
Final hookups and checks...............................51
Control surface throws.....................................51
Balance your model.........................................52
Preflight..............................................................52
Charge batteries..............................................52
Find a safe place to fly.....................................52
Ground check the model .................................52
Range check your radio...................................52
Engine safety precautions...............................52
AMA Safety code...............................................53
Flying..................................................................53
Takeoff.............................................................53
Flying...............................................................54
Landing............................................................54
Three-view drawing – Back cover
-2-
TABLE OF CONTENTS
0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180
Inch Scal
e
Metric Scale
PROTECT YOUR MODEL,
YOURSELF & OTHERS – FOLLOW
THIS IMPORTANT SAFETY
PRECAUTION
Your P-47 Thunderbolt is not a toy, but rather
a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like an actual airplane.
Because of its performance, the Thunderbolt, if
not assembled and operated correctly, could
possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and
damage property.
To make your R/C modeling experience
totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get
experienced, knowledgeable help with
assembly and during your first flights. You’ll
learn faster and avoid risking your model before
you’re truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop
has information about flying clubs in your area
whose membership includes qualified instructors.
You can also contact the national Academy of
Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than
2,300 chartered clubs across the country. Through
any one of them, instructor training programs and
insured newcomer training are available.
Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free
phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Telephone: (800) 435-9262
Fax: (317) 741-0057
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite
GOLD
EDITION
P-47 Thunderbolt.
The P-47 has long been recognized as an
excellent modeling subject. The wing plan form,
long tail moment and generous tail areas give the
P-47 modeler an excellent starting point. Top Flite
builds on these features with custom airfoils, 2-1/2
degrees of washout in the wing and 2-1/2 degrees
of right thrust. Top Flite’s advanced 3-D computer
engineering and interlocking construction
techniques combined with additional wing sheeting
jigs help you build a straight, lightweight model.
The result is a model warbird with exceptional
flight characteristics. The Top Flite P-47D is
smooth and forgiving both around the runway and
in high speed, high “G” flight.
Although this is a scale warbird with plenty of
detail, the builder can expect surprising results
because both the wing and fuse structure frame
up so fast. There is lots of sheeting to do over the
quickly framed structure but patterns are provided
with hints on how to prepare the sheets. When you
show up at the flying field with the Top Flite Gold
Edition P-47 your friends will see an “all out,” scale
warbird but you’ll recall a straightforward building
project with no complications (but you can keep
that a secret). Top Flite’s CAD designed structure
with interlocking parts and traditional wood
construction make this possible.
ABOUT THE AIRFOILS
Top Flite Design Engineer, David J. Ribbe,
and Low Speed Airfoil Expert, Dr. Michael Selig,
sat down over pizza to discuss what areas of the
model aircraft market could benefit from better
airfoils. One area that was identified was model
warbirds as they tend to have more wing taper
and higher wing loading than most sport/aerobatic
models. A warbird would benefit from a set of
airfoils that had better lift for a slower stall speed
and smooth, gentle stall characteristics.
Dave set out to develop a list of parameters;
things such as... stall speed, root chord, tip chord
and thickness, while making sure there would be
adequate room for retracts, compatibility with flaps,
spars, etc. These restraints were sent to Mike, so
he could design an airfoil around them. Mike used
a computer, with the latest low speed airfoil design
code to fine tune each airfoil’s shape.
The result is a root (S8036) and tip (S8037)
airfoil specifically designed for the needs of a
warbird like the P-47. We couldn’t be happier with
the results.
Please inspect all parts carefully before
starting to build! If any parts are missing, broken
or defective, or if you have any questions about
building or flying this model, please call us at
(217) 398-8970 and we’ll be glad to help. If you
are calling for replacement parts, please look up
the part numbers and the kit identification
number (stamped on the end of the carton) and
have them ready when calling.
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must build the plane according to the
plans and instructions. Do not alter or modify
the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or
unflyable model. In a few cases the plans and
instructions may differ slightly from the
photos. In those instances you should assume
the plans and written instructions are correct.
2. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.
3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in firstclass condition, the correct-sized engine and
correct components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.)
throughout your building process.
4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly
on the ground and in the air.
- 3 -
5. You must test the operation of the model
before the first and each successive flight to
insure that all equipment is operating and you
must make certain that the model has remained
structurally sound. Be sure to check external
nylon clevises often and replace them if they show
signs of wear.
6.You must fly the model only with the
competent help of a well-experienced R/C pilot if
you are not already an experienced R/C pilot at
this time.
Remember: Take your time, follow directions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight
and true.
to install retracts, there are the two types – wireand-coil or rigid struts with an oleo. Standard
wire struts absorb more shock on rough landings
and are less stressful to the airframe while the
oleo struts offer greater scale appearance. The
standard setup uses the Robart 606 HD
pneumatic system with 3/16” wire. Robart 650
oleo struts may be used and can be purchased
separately. Century Jet Models also offers the
TF P-47 pneumatic retract package with oleo
struts. See the “Other Items Required” section
and the “Retract Installation” section of the
manual for more information.
WHEEL SELECTION
Scale tire size for the P-47 is over 4" but we
recommend 3-1/2" wheels. 3-3/4" Wheels will
retract into the wing if extra care is taken
during construction.
FLAPS
This model is designed to incorporate scale
flaps; however, be assured that flaps are
optional and not necessary for an excellent
flying experience. The only difference is, without
flaps, the takeoff roll is a little longer and the
landing speed is slightly faster.
The flaps are not difficult to assemble, but
they do require good craftsmanship if they are to
fit well. They add nicely to the model’s flight
characteristics and scale appearance. Only
slight trim correction is needed when flaps are
deployed with the recommended throws. Flaps
add drag and lift to the model on landing
approaches, which gives the plane a very
steady, locked-in feel. The flaps require one
extra channel, a Y-harness and two standard
servos. They are a highly recommended
fun
option for those who wish to install them. More
information on the use of the flaps may be found
in the “Flying” section.
A .61-size Schnurle-ported engine will also provide
plenty of power for your P-47 –
especially if mostly
scale flying is in your repertoire. 1.20 4-stroke
engines should be reserved for proficient flyers
who can handle a model with a higher wing
loading and are used to the high torque
tendencies of such engines (lots of right rudder
on takeoff).
The included adjustable engine mount will
hold a range of engines from a .61 2-stroke
through 1.20 4-stroke.
A special Top Flite header and muffler is
available that will fit inside your cowling. They
are designed for 2-stroke engines as used on
our prototype:
Header for O.S .61SF (TOPQ7920)
Header for Super Tigre S61K-S75K (TOPQ7925)
Header for Super Tigre G75 (TOPQ7926)
Muffler for above (TOPQ7915)
RAZORBACK OR BUBBLE
CANOPY VERSION
Your Top Flite Gold Edition P-47D
Thunderbolt kit includes the parts and
instructions to build either the P-47D-23 known
as the “Razorback,” or the P-47D-25 “Bubble
Canopy” version. However, only the Razorback
canopy is included in the kit so if you decide to
build the Bubble Canopy version, all you need to
do is purchase the canopy set, which is offered
separately (TOPA1616). You do not need to
make this decision until about halfway through
fuselage construction.
RETRACTS OR FIXED GEAR
The choice of retractable or fixed landing
gear is yours. Retracts, once again, add to the
“presence” of your model in the air and really get
the attention of fellow modelers (and spectators).
Instructions are included for either option and
are quite detailed for retract installation so no
difficulty should be expected. Should you decide
ENGINE SELECTION
The recommended engine range is as follows:
.61 to .90 cu. in. 2-stroke
.91 to .120 cu. in. 4-stroke
The P-47 Thunderbolt will fly well with any of the
recommended engines. The 4-stroke engines and
most .90 2-stroke engines will turn a larger prop at
lower rpm’s. This is often desirable for scale
realism. If you use a .61 2-stroke, a Schnuerleported engine is preferred. The prototype P-47,
weighing 10 pounds with all of the options including
flaps, retractable landing gear and a releasable 108
gallon (scale of course) drop tank, was first flown
with the Super Tigre S-75K. This proved to be the
ideal size for a two-stroke power plant – large
enough to provide plenty of reserve power for
aerobatics and sport flying, yet small enough to
represent scale speeds when throttled back a little.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE EARLY
IN THE BUILDING PROCESS
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide
you with a top quality kit and great instructions,
but ultimately the quality and performance of
your finished model depends on how you build
it. Therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee
the performance of your completed model, and
no representations are expressed or implied as
to the performance or safety of your completed
model aircraft.
- 4 -
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
Item numbers (GPMQ4130) are suggested part
numbers recognized by distributors and hobby
shops and are listed for your ordering
convenience. TOP is the Top Flite brand, GPM is
the Great Planes brand and HCA is the prefix for
the Hobbico brand.
❏ 4 to 7 channel radio with 5 to 8 servos.
❏ 6" Aileron servo extension cords – Futaba J
HCAM2000
❏ Engine (see page 4)
❏ Propellers (see engine instruction manual for
proper propeller sizes)
❏ 14 oz. Fuel Tank – GPMQ4106
❏ 3-1/2" Main Wheels – Robart ROBQ1535
❏ 1-1/4" tailwheel – GPMQ4242
❏ 3/16" Wheel Collars – GPMQ4308, pkg. of 4
❏ 3/32" Wheel Collars – GPMQ4302, pkg. of 4
❏ Top Flite MonoKote covering, 3 rolls (see
Finishing
section)
❏ Paint (see
Finishing
section)
❏ Medium Silicone Fuel Tubing – GPMQ4131
❏
1/2" Latex Foam Rubber Padding – HCAQ1050
❏ Flexible cable throttle pushrod – GPMQ3700
-or-
❏ 1/16" x 12" threaded-end pushrod
OPTIONAL
For Flaps:
❏ Hobbico “Y” Harness (Fut J) – HCAM2500
-or-
❏ Futaba Dual Servo Extension – FUTM4130
❏ 6 Pcs. Robart #309 Super Hinge Points large
– ROBQ2509, pkg. of 6
For Retractable Landing Gear:
❏ Robart #606 85° HD Pneumatic Retracts –
ROBQ0006
❏ Robart #188 Air Control Kit – ROBQ2388
❏ Robart #164G Hand Pump – ROBQ2363
❏ 3 Pcs. Robart #190 Quick Connectors
– ROBQ2395 pkg. of 2
NOTES FOR THE COMPETITION-
MINDED MODELERS AND
DEVIATIONS FROM SCALE
The P-47D-23 Razorback was instrumental
in turning the tide of WWII. It was escorting
bombers to targets before the longer ranged
Mustangs appeared in significant numbers.
The “Bonnie” trim scheme shown on the box
was done with MonoKote film and the decals
supplied in the kit.
The main landing gear is simplified. They
pivot at the scale location, but the wells are
moved forward, slightly ahead of the main spar.
The model’s tires (3-1/2" to 3-3/4") are smaller
than scale in order to fit into the space provided,
but the stance on the ground is scale.
The elevator and rudder hinge lines have
been modified in order to simplify assembly and
use standard model hinging techniques.
The true scale factor of the Top Flite P-47 is
1:7.77, or approximately 1/8.
DOCUMENTATION
Following are some of the books that are
available showing various details of the P-47:
Thunderbolt – A Documentary History of the
Republic P-47, Roger A. Freeman.
Contains the excellent 5-view drawings that
the Top Flite P-47 was designed around. It also
contains many photos and historical information.
P-47 Thunderbolt – In Action, Squadron/Signal
Features “Bonnie” on the cover and includes
3-views and many photos and illustrations.
TOP FLITE SCALE ACCESSORIES
SCALE COCKPIT INTERIOR:
Another exciting
option made specifically for your Top Flite Gold
Edition P-47 is the Scale Cockpit Interior. It goes
without saying (we’ll say it anyway) that a full
cockpit interior really adds to the realism and
overall appearance of your model. Since it is
made for the P-47, installation is easy. This can
be done about 3/4 of the way through fuselage
construction or it may be saved until after
covering is finished. We urge you to take
advantage of this option as rarely do you find
such details offered by the manufacturer
specifically for their own model. Instructions for
painting and finishing are included with the
cockpit kit (TOPQ8405).
REPLICA RADIAL ENGINE:
A final touch of
scale realism is possible by installing the
specially designed 9-cylinder replica radial
engine inside the cowl. The replica radial adds
significantly to the look of the model and, when
backed up by 1/8" lite-ply, doubles as a cooling
baffle for the real engine. Made from vacuumformed ABS, the replica radial is easy to
assemble and can be modified to suit any
engine installation (TOPQ7902).
DROP TANKS:
To increase its range, the P-47
used one or more drop tanks. With the 108
gallon “Paper” Tank (TOPQ7899) and/or the 75
gallon Tank (TOPQ7900) you can give the P-47
that business-like “loaded down” look and add
even further to the scale realism. The release
mechanism is included with the tanks so they
can be made releasable in flight or may be
manually disconnected. Scale pylons are
included for the outboard Wing Tanks.
- 5 -
❏
Robart #650 Straight Robostruts – ROBQ1700
(optional)
❏ Robart #189Air Restrictor Set – ROBQ2389
(optional)
-or-
❏ Century Jet Models Retracts
❏ Top Flite Header & In Cowl Muffler (See page
4 for description)
❏ Scale Pilot figure (1/6 Scale Williams Brothers
WBRQ2472 Military or WBRQ2476 Standard)
❏ Fuel Filler Valve – GPMQ4160
❏ Fuel Filter – GPMQ4250
❏ Top Flite 75 Gal. Drop Tank(s) – TOPQ7900
❏ Top Flite 108 Gal. Drop Tank – TOPQ7899
❏ Sullivan #507 Gold-N-Rod for releasable drop
tanks – SULQ3007
❏
Screw-Lock Pushrod Connectors – GPMQ3870
(optional)
❏ Switch & Charge Jack Mount – GPMM1000
❏ Top Flite Cockpit Interior Kit – TOPQ8405
❏ Top Flite 1/8th Scale Replica Radial Engine –
TOPQ7902
❏ #4x1/2 Button head screw – GPMQ3124
SUGGESTED SUPPLIES AND TOOLS
We recommend Top Flite Supreme™CA and Epoxy
❏ 2 oz.CA (Thin) – TOPR1003
❏ 2 oz. CA+ (Medium) – TOPR1008
❏ 1 oz. CA- (Thick) – TOPR1011
❏ CA Applicator Tips – HCAR3780
❏ CA Accelerator – TOPR1025
❏ 6-Minute Epoxy – TOPR1040
❏ 30-Minute Epoxy – TOPR1043
❏ Wood Glue – GPMR6160 (optional)
❏
Pacer Z-560 Canopy Glue – PAAR3300 (optional)
❏ Hand or Electric Drill
❏ Silver Solder w/flux – GPMR8070
❏ Sealing Iron – TOPR2100
❏ Heat Gun – TOPR2000 (optional)
❏ Hot Sock – TOPR2175 (optional)
❏ Trim Seal Tool
™
– TOPR2200 (optional)
❏ #1 Knife handle – XACR4305
❏ #11 Blades (100 qty.) – HCAR0311
❏ Single Edge Razor Blades – HCAR0312
❏ Razor Saw
❏ Common pliers
❏ Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat head)
❏ Robart Super Stand – ROBQ1401
❏ T-Pins – HCAR5100 small, HCAR5150
medium, HCAR5200 large
❏ Straightedge–Fourmost Non-Slip – FORR2149
❏
3/4 oz. Fiberglass Cloth – HCAR5000 (Optional)
❏ Masking Tape
❏ Sandpaper (see Hot Tip on this page)
❏ Easy-Touch
™
Bar Sanders – GPMR1670
❏ Waxed Paper
❏ HobbyLite
™
Balsa Filler – HCAR3401
❏ 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 7/32" brass tube (optional)
❏ Tap wrench
❏ 1/4-20 Tap w/drill bit – GPMR8105
❏ 8-32 Tap w/drill bit – GPMR8103
❏ Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol
❏ Dremel
®
Moto-Tool™or similar w/sanding
drum, cutting burr, cut off wrench (optional)
❏ 9/64" ball end hex wrench – GPMR8004
❏ Kyosho
®
Curved Scissors – KYOR1010
❏ Razor Plane – MASR1510
❏ String
❏ Auto body filler (Bondo
®
or similar)
❏ 3M #75 Repositionable Spray Adhesive
Drill Bits: ❏ 1/16" ❏ 3/16"
❏ 5/64" ❏ 7/32"
❏ 1/8" ❏ 15/64"
❏ 9/64" ❏ 1/4"
❏ 17/64"
On our workbench, we have four 11" Great
Planes
®
Easy-Touch™Bar Sanders, equipped
with #50, #80, #150 and #220-grit sandpaper.
This setup is all that is required for almost any
sanding task. Custom sanding blocks can be
made from balsa for sanding hard to reach
spots. We also keep some #320-grit wet-or-dry
sandpaper handy for finish sanding before
covering.
Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are
made from lightweight extruded aluminum and
can be found at most hobby shops. They are
available in two sizes – 11" (GPMR6170) for
most general purpose sanding and 22"
(GPMR6172) for long surfaces such as wing
leading edges. We recommend using the 2"
wide self adhesive sandpaper sold in 12' rolls by
Great Planes. Standard sandpaper can be
attached by gluing it to the sander with brush-on
rubber cement. Apply the rubber cement to both
the bottom of the sander and the back of the
sandpaper. When both surfaces are dry to the
touch, press the sandpaper firmly onto the
sander. Spray adhesive can be used for this
purpose but it’s much harder to remove the
sandpaper when you need to replace it. Use
a knife blade for cutting sandpaper, not your
good scissors!
- 6 -
- 7 -
- 8 -
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN
THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
Deg = Degrees
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left
Ply = Plywood
Rt = Right
Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
" = Inches
Elev = Elevator
METRIC CONVERSION CHART:
INCHES X 25.4 = MM (CONVERSION FACTOR)
1/64"= .4 mm
1/32"= .8 mm
1/16"= 1.6 mm
3/32"= 2.4 mm
1/8" = 3.2 mm
5/32"= 4.0 mm
3/16"= 4.8 mm
1/4" = 6.4 mm
3/8" = 9.5 mm
1/2" = 12.7 mm
5/8" = 15.9 mm
3/4" = 19.0 mm
1" = 25.4 mm
2" = 50.8 mm
3" = 76.2 mm
6" = 152.4 mm
12" = 304.8 mm
18" = 457.2 mm
21" = 533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762.0 mm
36" = 914.4 mm
TYPES OF WOOD:
GET READY TO BUILD
❏ 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plan
inside-out to make it lie flat.
❏ 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do,
determine the name of each part by comparing it
with the plan and the parts list included with this
kit. Using a felt-tip or ball-point pen, lightly write the
part name or size on each piece to avoid
confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on
pages 7 and 8 to identify the die-cut parts and
mark them before removing them from the sheet.
Stock up on scrap balsa by saving the large parts
of the remainder of the die-cut sheets after the
parts have been removed.
If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to remove, do
not try to force them! Instead, cut around
the parts with a hobby knife. After removing the
die-cut parts, use your Easy-Touch or sanding
block to lightly sand the edges to remove any
die-cutting irregularities.
❏ 3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate
them into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing,
fin, stab (stabilizer) and hardware.
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES
BUILD THE STABILIZER AND ELEVATORS
❏ 1. Always build on a flat surface. Refer to the
plans to identify the parts and their locations.
The
plans may be cut apart if space is a problem.
Tape
them to your building board and cover them with
waxed paper.
❏ 2. Remove both sets of the die-cut 3/32" balsa
stab Ribs S-1 through S-6 and the die-cut 1/8"
balsa stab Trailing Edges (TE’s) and TE
Doublers. There is a Jig Tab on the bottom edge
of each of the ribs. If any of these break off,
carefully glue them back on with thin CA. Lightly
sand any imperfections. Use a pen to mark the
extensions of the bottom edge of the ribs across
the fore and aft ends of the jig tabs. These marks
will help when you trim off the jig tabs later.
❏ 3. Cut the Stab Leading Edges (LE’s) 1/4"
longer than shown on the plans from two pieces of
1/4" x 11-7/8" tapered balsa stock.
HINT: Bevel the front edge of the ribs to match the
sweep angle of the LE. This will give you a better
fit and a stronger glue joint.
❏ 4. Pin only the S-2 ribs and the S-6 ribs to the
building board over their locations on the plan.
Zipper-top food storage bags are handy to store
your small parts as you sort, identify and
separate them into sub-assemblies.
- 9 -
Balsa Basswood Ply
❏ 5. With the notch in one of the stab TE’s aligned
with the notch in a stab TE doubler, glue the pieces
together. Do the same with the other stab TE and
doubler. Make a right and a left half. Glue the
die-cut 1/8" balsa stab TE Joiners together.
❏ 6. Without using any glue, install ribs S3, S4
and S5 in the notches in the TE’s, then fit the
TE’s to ribs S6 and S2 previously pinned to the
building board.
During the next step make certain the jig
tabs on the ribs are contacting the building
board and the ribs are perpendicular to the
building board.
❏ 7. Vertically centered, glue one of the stab LE’s
to ribs S6 and S2, then do the same with the other
LE. Glue both TE’s to all the ribs then glue the rest
of the ribs to the LE.
❏ 8. Use thick CA to glue the TE joiner to the TE’s
making sure the jig tabs on the ribs are
contacting the building board. Wipe away
excess glue between the TE’s.
❏ 9. Trial fit both S1 ribs
without
the die-cut 1/8"
plywood LE Joiner. After any required adjustments
have been made to the S1’s, trial fit them
with
the
LE joiner. Make further adjustments if required then
securely glue the assembly in position. Use CA to
reinforce any glue joints that don’t look strong.
❏ 10. Prepare the top of the stab for sheeting. Use
a razor plane and a sanding block to trim the top
surface of the LE (particularly toward the tip) until it
is even with the ribs. Sand the TE to smoothly
blend with the ribs. The stab frame may be
removed from the building board for this step but
must be repinned to the flat building board to apply
the skins.
HOW TO MAKE WING AND
STAB SKINS
(Also see additional Hot Tip on page 34)
A. Wherever practical, prejoin the balsa sheets
to make a “skin” before attaching them to the
structure.
B. Many modelers like to sort the wood so they
can put the best wood with the most even grain
structure on the
top
of the wing and stab.
C. Make your skin larger than needed to allow
for misalignment. On a large surface like the
wing, 3/8" extra is suggested.
D. To make skins, the following steps are
suggested:
1. True up the edges of the sheets with a
metal straightedge and a sharp hobby knife or
an Easy-Touch Bar Sander.
2. Test fit the sheets together to make sure
they match well.
3. Method “A”: The fastest method for gluing
the sheets together is with thin CA over a flat
surface covered with waxed paper. A quick wipe
of the joint with a fresh paper towel will remove
most of the excess glue and make sanding
easier. Mark the poorest surface with an “I” as
the inside of the sheet.
Method “B”: An alternate method for gluing
the pieces that make up a stab or fin skin is to
glue them together with aliphatic resin (white
glue). Aliphatic resin sands much easier than
CA so your skins won’t get too thin from over
sanding. Use masking tape to hold the sheets
together until the glue cures – usually in about
thirty minutes.
- 10 -
❏ 11. Make the skins for the stabs and fin using
three 1/16" x 3" x 36" balsa sheets. See the sketch
for the correct layout on the sheets. Refer to the
plans for the exact shapes and sizes but
remember to cut the sheets slightly oversize.
Note: The grain direction of the skins is
parallel
to the leading edges of stab and fin.
❏ 12. Cut a 2-1/2" wide cross-grain strip from one
of the 1/16" x 3" x 36" balsa sheets used for the
stab and fin skins, cut it to fit, then glue it between
the S1 stab ribs.
Caution: If you have recently used any CA
Accelerator on the structure during previous
steps, be aware that residual accelerator may
cause the thick or medium CA you may use
during the next step to harden prematurely.
Some modelers prefer to glue the skins to the
structure with aliphatic resin. Use T-pins to
hold the skins in position until the glue cures.
❏ 13. Be certain you can remove the stab from the
building board after you glued the skins on. Apply
an even bead of medium or thick CA to the upward
facing edges of the structure. Place a skin in its
proper position and press it down firmly until the
glue has set. Repeat this step for the other
top skin.
❏ 13. Use the template provided on the wing plans
to cut four Elevator Skins from a sheet of 1/16" x
3" x 36" balsa.
❏ 14. Build the Bevel Gauge from the die-cut
1/16" plywood then drill a #48 (or 5/64") hole at
each punch mark. Use the gauge with a ball-point
pen to mark the bevel and “rib end” indication
lines on the inside surfaces of the elevator skins.
Make rights and lefts.
❏ 15. Use your Easy-Touch with fresh 150 or 220-
grit sandpaper to bevel the aft 1/4" of the elevator
skins (indicated by the aft line drawn with the
gauge) down to roughly 1/32".
❏ 16. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa Elevator
Leading Edges to the notches in the ribs then
glue the bottom elevator skins in position. Note:
Be sure the LE’s are parallel to the stab TE. Hint:
A stick will serve as a lever to push up the elevator
skin to the elevator leading edge while you are
gluing it.
❏ 17. Glue the top elevator skin in position.
Weights placed on the stabilizer will help hold it to
your flat building board to assure a straight, true
stab and elevators.
❏ 18.
Carefully remove the stab and elevators from
your building board. Remove the jig tabs and use a
razor saw to separate the elevators from the
stab. Use an Easy-Touch loaded with 220-grit
sandpaper to blend the ribs to the trailing and
leading edges of the stab to prepare the structure for
the bottom skins.
3/8"
1/32"
- 11 -
1/4"
1/32"
❏ 19. Cut another piece of 1/16" cross-grain
sheeting 2-1/2" long and glue it between the S1
ribs as you did in step 12. Add four 1/4" x 1/2" x 1"
Hinge Blocks to the inside of the stab trailing
edged as shown in the plans. The outer hinge
blocks will need to be trimmed to match the height
and contour of the stab TE.
❏ 20. Inspect all glue joints and add CA where
necessary. Glue the bottom stab skins just as you
did the top. A good glue joint here is important, so
apply a generous bead of thick or medium CA to
all the upward facing edges of the structure.
Remember: Residual accelerator can cause the
CA to cure prematurely. Be careful not to add
any twist in the stab as you apply the skins.
❏ 21. Use a sanding block to true up the tips of
the stab and elevators and to remove the
remnants of the ribs from the leading edges of the
elevators and the trailing edge of the stab.
IMPORTANT: Round the LE of the stab to match
the cross section on the plan.
❏ 22. Glue a 3/16" x 1" x 11-7/8" balsa Leading
Edge Cap to each elevator LE then trim to match
the length of the elevator LE. Use a razor plane,
then a sanding block to blend the top and bottom
of the leading edge cap to the skins. Round the
inboard ends to match the elevator LE.
❏ 23. Tack glue three 1/32" scrap plywood shims
to the leading edge of each elevator, then tack
glue each elevator to the stabilizer with a drop of
CA on the shims. Make sure the outboard tips are
flush by sanding the edges with a sanding block
if required.
❏ 24. Noting their orientation on the plans, glue
the shaped 5/8" thick balsa Stabilizer Tips
simultaneously to the stab and elevator.
❏ 25. Use a razor plane and a sanding block to
shape and round the tips. Refer to the cross
section on the plans frequently during this process.
❏ 26. Separate the elevators from the stabilizer by
cutting the tips with a razor saw and breaking
away the tack glued 1/32" plywood shims.
Hint: Hold the razor saw close to the leading edge
of the elevators while cutting. Use a long sanding
block and 150-grit sandpaper to true the tips with
the leading edges of the elevators and the trailing
edges of the stabilizer.
SHAPING BALSA BLOCKS
The long carving blade in a heavy duty handle (A)
is the best tool to create the rough shape as a
large amount of wood can be easily removed.
Once the blocks are “roughed in,” use a razor
plane (B) to fine tune the shape. Finally, #50
coarse, #150 medium and #220 fine sandpaper on
an Easy-Touch Bar Sander will smooth out the
lines and flat spots. Don’t try to shave too much
wood at one time and inspect your progress
frequently. You can always remove wood, but it’s
difficult to put it back.
- 12 -
LE Cap
❏ 27. Glue the shaped 7/8" thick balsa Elevator
Root Blocks to the elevators then use a razor
plane and a sanding block to shape them as you
did the tips.
❏ 28. Draw centerlines on the leading edge of the
elevators and on the trailing edge of the stabilizer.
Mark the position of the hinges on the elevators
and stabilizer using the locations on the plans as
a guide.
❏ 29. Cut the hinge slots now and temporarily
install the hinges. Refer to the detailed hinging
instructions on page 48. NOTE: Do not glue the
hinges yet, but wait instead until after the
model is covered.
❏ 30. Sand the elevator LE’s to a “V” shape to
allow for the elevator travel (see the stab cross
section on the fuse plans).
❏ 31. Hold the bent 1/8" Elevator Joiner Wire up
to the elevators and mark the location of the holes
(see the plans). Remove the elevators from the
stabilizer and drill 1/8" holes in the elevators to
accomodate the joiner wire.
❏ 32. Make slots inboard of the holes to allow the
wire to be inserted into the elevators. Hint: A piece
of 1/8" brass tube sharpened at one end makes a
great gouge for cleanly removing material from the
leading edge of the elevators. Trial fit the stabilizer
to the elevators with the joiner inserted and confirm
that the elevators align with each other. Make
adjustments if required.
❏ 33. Mark the location for the 1/8" x 7/8" x 1"
plywood Elevator Horn Block on the bottom of the
right elevator. Remove material as needed to allow
the horn block to fit flush with the surface of
the elevator.
❏ 34. Glue the elevator horn block to the elevator,
then sand it so the pieces blend together.
BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER
The Fin and Rudder are built simultaneously just
the same as the stabilizer.
❏ 1. Remove the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs V-1
through V-5 and R-1 and the die-cut 1/8" balsa Fin
TE’s and Rudder LE. Be sure to preserve the
jig tabs.
❏ 2. Cut the fin leading edge to the exact length
shown on the plans from a piece of 1/4" x 11-7/8"
tapered balsa stabilizer LE stock. Notice that the fin
LE fits into a notch on top of F-9.
❏ 3. Slightly bevel the front edge of the ribs to
match the angle of the leading edge stock.
DRAWING CONTROL SURFACE CENTERLINES
1. Accurately measure the center point at the two
extreme ends of the surface to be marked.
2. Insert a T-pin at each of the marks.
3. Hold a straightedge against the pins, then draw
the centerline.
- 13 -
❏ 4. Cover the rudder and vertical fin portion of the
plans with waxed paper. Lay the leading edge on
the plans and mark the exact location of rib V-1
directly on it with a pen. Pin only ribs V-1 and V-5
to the building board over the plans. Vertically
center the LE on the front of the ribs and glue it
in place.
❏ 5. Laminate the two fin trailing edges to each
other with thick CA. Place the remaining ribs in the
notches of the fin trailing edge, but do not glue
them yet. Fit the assembly to the parts already on
the building board.
❏ 6. With all jig tabs contacting the building
board and the ribs vertical, glue them to the
leading edge and the trailing edge.
❏ 7. Use a sanding block and 150-grit sandpaper
to blend the LE and TE to match the ribs on the
upward facing (right) fin side.
❏ 8. Make a skin for each side of the fin using the
1/16" balsa sheet left over from the stab skins.
Make them longer than required so they extend
past V-1 about 5/8"; this will allow fitting to the stab
later. With the structure flat on the table, glue on
the right skin.
❏ 9. Trial fit the rudder LE to the notches in the
ribs and make adjustments if necessary. Glue the
rudder LE to the ribs.
❏ 10. Trial fit R-1 to the notch in the rudder leading
edge. Make sure it is square with the rudder
leading edge and in line with the other rudder ribs,
then glue it in position.
❏ 11.
Use the templates provided on the plans to
make two Rudder Skins from a 1/16" x 3" x 36"
balsa sheet. Use the bevel gauge to mark the
lines on the inside of each rudder skin, then
sand the bevel just the same as you did on the
elevator skins.
❏ 12. Glue the left rudder skin to the ribs and
leading edge of the rudder.
❏ 13. Glue the right rudder skin in position.
❏ 14. Remove the assembly from the building
board and use a razor saw to separate the rudder
from the fin. Remove the jig tabs from the fin and
blend the leading and trailing edge to the ribs to
prepare for the left side sheeting.
❏ 15. Glue the left fin skin to the fin.
❏ 16. True up the edges of the sheeting on both
the fin and rudder with a sanding block. Shape the
LE of the fin to match the cross section on
the plans.
❏ 17. Glue the shaped balsa Rudder Base and
the 1/4" x 1" x 11-7/8" Rudder LE Cap to the
rudder. Trim the LE cap to the length shown on the
plans and roughly shape the rudder base to blend
it with the rest of the rudder. Don’t completely
round the bottom of the rudder yet as this will be
done when it can be fitted to the fuselage.
- 14 -
❏ 18. Tack glue or tape the rudder to the fin with
three 1/32" plywood shims (as we did with the
elevators). True up the tip of the fin and rudder if
necessary, then glue the shaped 5/8" balsa Fin Tip
simultaneously to the fin and rudder.
❏ 19. While the rudder and fin are still joined, use
a razor plane and a sanding block to final shape
the tip according to the plans. After shaping the
tip, separate the rudder from the fin by cutting
the tip with a razor saw and breaking off the
plywood shims.
❏ 20. Draw a centerline on the leading edge of the
rudder and the trailing edge of the fin, cut the
hinge slots, then sand the “V” on the leading edge
of the rudder.
❏ 21. Mark the location of the 1/8" x 7/8" x 1" birch
ply Rudder Horn Block on the rudder. Remove
balsa from the marked area, then glue the horn
block in position. Sand it to blend to the shape of
the rudder.
Now you have a couple of nicely finished,
lightweight, yet strong “tail feathers”. That’s pretty
much the way the rest of the P-47 builds; rather
“matter-of-factly.” Before you know, it you’ll have a
beautifully-constructed piece of workmanship
to admire.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
TOP FRAME ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The die-cut 1/8" plywood formers are
stamped only with an abbreviated portion of their
name. For example, F-2B is stamped 2B. You
may remove all the formers before you begin
construction of the fuselage or you can remove
them as you need them. Lightly sand each former
to remove any die-cutting imperfections, slivers or
irregularities before gluing it in position.
IMPORTANT: All formers must be installed
with the stamped identification number
facing
forward
.
❏ 1. Pin the top view of the Fuselage plan to a flat
building surface, then cover it with waxed paper.
❏ 2. Use thick CA to laminate the F-1’s together
and the F-1B’s together.
❏ 3. Drill a 1/16" hole in the five engine mount
alignment punch marks in FWA and a 1/8" hole
through each of the two firewall former alignment
punch marks in FWA, FWB and FWC.
❏ 4. Cut the 1/8" x 1" Alignment Dowel in half.
Use 30-minute epoxy to laminate FWA, B and C
with the alignment dowel inserted in the holes.
Make sure the stamped label on each former is
facing forward. Hint: Clamp the firewall formers to
a flat table or board to assure a warp-free firewall.
❏ 5. Remove 4" from each 3/16" x 3/8" x 48"
Shaped Main Stringer, then pin them to the plans
with the groove facing outward. Leave excess
material extending beyond F-1 (it will be trimmed
later). Accurately match the aft end to the plans.
- 15 -
❏ 6. Fit, but do not glue, the Tank Roof (TR)
followed by the Right Upper Crutch (RUC) and
Left Upper Crutch (LUC) into former F-1. Place
the assembly in its location on the plans between
the main stringers. Note: Left crutch is slightly
longer than the right crutch to set the engine
thrust angle.
❏ 7. Fit former F-2 to the upper crutches. Making
sure F-1 is perpendicular to the building board, use
medium CA to glue the TR, RUC and LUC to the
aft side only of F-1. Later we’ll glue the parts to
the front of F-1 with a fillet of epoxy. Do not glue
the TR to the upper crutches forward of F-1.
Glue F-1 and F-2 to the side stringer and glue F-2
to the crutches.
NOTE: From this point on you will encounter a few
areas on the structure that may be difficult to glue
because they are not easily accessible. At this
early stage much of the structure only needs to be
tack glued, but it can be reinforced with thick or
medium CA after the sheeting is applied and the
frame is removed from the building board.
❏ 8. Drill 3/16" holes through the punch marks in
formers F-7 and F-8. With the numbers facing
forward, glue the remaining formers F-3 through
F-9 to the side stringers.
NOTE: Use a small triangle to hold ALL
formers vertical while gluing. Any small warps
or twists will be taken out when the 3/16"
stringers are glued in later.
❏ 9. Glue the two halves of the die-cut 1/8" balsa
Cockpit Deck together, then glue it to formers F-3,
F-4 and F-5. NOTE: If you will be installing the Top
Flite Scale Cockpit Interior, do not glue the cockpit
deck to F-4.
❏ 10. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood Stab Saddles
to F-9 and the side stringers. Note: The bottom
edges of the stab saddles are not flush with the
side stringer but set away from the outside edge
slightly. Also, the tops of the saddles are canted
toward each other.
RAZORBACK VERSION:
Perform steps 11, 12 and 13 only if building the
Razorback version.
❏ 11. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood formers IP, CB
and 5-C to the cockpit deck and former tops 6-C
and 7-C to their respective formers. Hint: If you
have decided to install the Top Flite Scale Cockpit
Interior, glue the IP to the cockpit deck from the
front only and CB from the back only. Most of the
cockpit deck will be cut flush with IP and CB.
NOTE: Save all the unused portions of the
3/16" x 3/16" stringers used during
construction of the fuselage.
- 16 -
F-4
❏ 12. Use a drafting triangle to hold the formers
vertical and remove any twists as you glue one
3/16" x 3/16" x 42" balsa stringer in F-1 through
F-9 on each side of the fuselage. Cut the stringers
flush with F-1. Glue 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" stringers in
the rest of the formers on the aft end of the
fuselage. The middle stringer on each side extends
past F-9 1-1/2" and will be trimmed to exact size
later. The top 3/16" stringers end at the forward
surface of F-9. NOTE: Do not glue the top stringers
to F-9.
❏ 1
3. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa Razor Spine to
the top of CB, 5-C and 6-C. NOTE: The aft edge of
the razor spine ends at the center of 6-C.
❏ 16. Cut and glue the rest of the stringers for the
front of the fuselage from three 3/16" x 3/16" x 24"
balsa sticks.
❏ 17. Use thin CA (wiping away any excess before
it cures) to glue two 1/8" x 3/16" x 24" balsa substringers into the groove in each side main
stringer. These sub-stringers will provide a ledge
for the sheeting.
❏ 18. Lightly sand all joints and blend the stringers
to the formers in preparation for sheeting. Use a
razor plane to bevel the edges of the cockpit deck.
SHEET THE SIDES OF THE FUSELAGE TOP
❏ 1. Locate the two shaped 3/32" balsa Main
Upper Fuselage Side Sheets. The fuselage is
longer than the sheet so we’ll add a piece to the
rear later. Refer to the plans for the position of the
side sheet.
MAIN
SUB-STRINGERSTRINGER
MAIN
BUBBLE CANOPY VERSION:
Perform steps 14 and 15 if building the Bubble
Canopy version.
❏ 14. Glue the die-cut 1/8" Plywood Formers IP,
CBX and 5X to the cockpit floor and former tops
6X and 7X to their respective formers. Hint: if
you have decided to install the Top Flite scale
cockpit, glue the IP to the cockpit deck from the
front only and CBX from the back only. Most of
the cockpit deck will be cut flush with IP and CB.
NOTE: Save all the unused portions of the
3/16" x 3/16" stringers used during
construction of the fuselage.
❏
15. Use a drafting triangle to hold the formers
vertical and remove any twists as you glue one
3/16" x 3/16" x 42" balsa stringers in formers F-1
through F-9 on each side of the fuselage. Cut
them flush with F-1. Glue 3/16" x 3/16" x 24"
stringers in the rest of the formers on the aft end
of the fuselage except for the top, middle
stringer. Notice the middle stringer on each side
of F-9 extends 1-1/2" and will be trimmed to exact
size later. The top 3/16" stringers end at the
forward surface of F-9. NOTE: Do not glue the
top stringers to F-9.
- 17 -
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