SINGER 14T968DC User Manual

Page 1
14T968DC
Instruction Book
Page 2
14T968DC
This SINGER sewing machine, model 14T968DC,
SINGER is a registered trademark of The Singer Company Limited or its affiliates.
©2008 The Singer Company Limited or its affiliates. All rights reserved.
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed including the following.
DANGER -To reduce the risk of electric shock:
* The machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the
electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
* Always unplug before re-lamping. Replace bulb with the same type rated 15 watts. Be sure to replace the
face plate which covers the light bulb before operating the machine.
WARNING -To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:
* Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage of
the motor.
* Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this Instruction Book. Use only attachments
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in the Instruction Book.
* To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("0") position, then remove plug from outlet.
* Disconnect the power line plug from the socket outlet or switch the machine off when making any adjustments
in the needle area, such as threading needle and loopers, changing needle, changing throat plate or changing presser foot, etc.
* Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making
any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the Instruction Book.
* Do not attempt to adjust the motor belt. Contact your nearest Service Center should any adjustment be
required.
* Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything on top
of the controller.
* Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
* Do not use bent needles.
* When sewing, keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine
needle.
* Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needles causing them to break.
* For double insulated machines, when servicing, use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for
Servicing of Double-Insulated Appliances.
* Never operate the machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been
dropped or damaged, or dropped into the water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or Service Center for examination, repair, electrical, or mechanical adjustment.
* Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and
foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
* Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
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* Do not use outdoors.
* Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
* Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near
children.
* Do not expose the machine or machine plastic case to sunlight directly. Also, do not keep it in a very warm
or damp place.
* Do not touch the machine, foot controller and power line cord with wet hand, wet cloth or with anything wet.
* Do not connect power line cord to one of the many cords connected to one power outlet with adapters.
* Use machine on flat and stable table.
* Be sure to close the looper cover before operating the machine.
* Keep presser foot and needles away from children's reach.
* Be sure the light bulb has cooled off before changing with a new one.
* Do not dismantle or modify the machine yourself.
* Be sure to turn off the power switch and disconnect the power line plug before caring for your machine as
instructed in the Instruction Book.
* The appliance is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision.
* Young childen should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
* Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
* SERVICING OF DOUBLE-INSULATED PRODUCTS. In a double-insulated product, two systems of
insulation is provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double-insulated product, nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing of a double-insulated product requires, extreme care and knowledge of the system, and should be done only by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a double-insulated product must be identical to those parts in the product. A double-
Insulated product is marked with the word "DOUBLE-INSULATION" or "DOUBLE-INSULATED".
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page Page
1. Selection stitches & Auto tension..............................
2. Handy Reference Chart............................................
3. Accessories..............................................................
4. Needle Information...................................................
5. Principal Parts..........................................................
6. How to Open Looper Cover.....................................
7. Principal Parts Behind Looper Cover.......................
8. Preparation prior to sewing......................................
9. Removal and Replacement of Waste Tray..............
10. Preparation for Threading........................................
*Setting up the thread guide holder............................
*Anti-spill net..............................................................
*Spool cap..................................................................
11. How to Remove and Insert Needles........................
*Needle position.........................................................
*To remove needle(s).................................................
*To insert needle(s)....................................................
12. Threading the Machine...........................................
*Threading diagram...................................................
*Understanding the color code..................................
*To thread the machine correctly...............................
1) Threading the upper looper (Green)...................
2) Threading the lower looper (Red).......................
3) Threading the chain stitch looper (Brown)..........
4) Threading the overedge right needle (Blue).......
5) Threading the chain stitch needle (Orange)........
6) Threading the cover stitch needles.....................
1
Threading the cover stitch left needle (Orange)
2
Threading the cover stitch middle/chain stitch
needle(Blue).....................................................
3
Threading the cover stitch right needle(Green).
13. How to Change Threads / Tie on Method...............
14. How to Adjust the Stitch length...............................
15. How to Adjust the Seam width................................
*Width adjustment by changing needle position........
*Width adjustment with adjustment knob...................
16. How to Adjust the Presser Foot Pressure...............
17. Differential Feed......................................................
*Gathered overedge...................................................
*Stretch overedge......................................................
18. How to Disengage Movable Upper Knife................
19. To Convert upper Looper to Spreader....................
*To use the spreader..................................................
*To disengage to upper looper...................................
20. Standard overedge and Rolled Hem Stitching........
*To sew standard overedge.......................................
*To sew rolled hem....................................................
21. Chaining Off and Test Sewing............................
5
22. Settings and Sewing Instructions........................
8
1) Double chain stitch...........................................
9
2) 2-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock...................
9 10 12 12 12 13 14 14 14 14 15 15 15 15 16 16 16 17 17 18 20 21 23 25 25
3) 2-Thread Overedge..........................................
4) 3-Thread Overlock............................................
5) 3-Thread Flatlock..............................................
6) 3-Thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch.......
7) 4-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safely Stitch.........
8) 4-Thread Safety Stitch......................................
9) 5-Thread Safety Stitch......................................
23. How to Sew a Cover Stitch.................................
24. How to Sew a Rolled hem..................................
1) 3-thread standard rolled hem stitching.............
2) 3-thread upper looper thread wrapped
rolled hem stitching...........................................
3) 2-thread standard rolled hem stitching.............
4) 2-thread lower looper thread wrapped
rolled hem stitching...........................................
25. Stitch Variations and Sewing Techniques...........
*Decorative Flatlocking..........................................
*How to sew an overlock blind hem.......................
*How to sew pin tucks...........................................
*Turning square corners........................................
*Pin placement.......................................................
*Securing the thread chain.....................................
*How to reinforce a seam.......................................
*Braiding by chaining off........................................
26. Machine Maintenance.........................................
26 28 30 31 31 31 31 32 33 33 34 35 36 36 36 37
*Cleaning the machine...........................................
*Oiling the machine................................................
*How to replace the moveable upper knife............
*How to exchange light bulb...................................
27.Optional Accessories...........................................
*Snap-on type presser foot....................................
*Optional presser feet............................................
1) Elastic foot.......................................................
2) Blind hem foot..................................................
3) Shirring foot......................................................
4) Pearl/Sequin foot.............................................
5) Piping/Cording foot..........................................
6) Taping foot.......................................................
28. Troubleshooting Chart.........................................
29. Relationship between Cloth, Thread and Need..
30. Specification........................................................
37 37
38 39 39 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 54 55
55 56
56 58 59 60 60 61 62 62 63 63 64 64 64 65 66 67 67 68 68 68 68 68 68 68 69 70 71
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1. SELECTION OF STITCHES & AUTO TENSION
This machine is capable of producing various types of stitches according to the combination of Auto Tension Selected, needle positions, threading methods, and the use of convertible right looper/spreader.
Stitch Type Reference
1. Double A 1-needle 2-thread straight stitch is used Chain Stitch for construction or decorative stitching.
ATD: D
2. Two-thread 1-needle 2-thread stitch is used for Wrapped Edge Overlock
ATD: D
ATD: G
3. Two-thread 1-needle 2-thread stitch is used for Overedge overedging common fabrics. It is also
ATD: E
4. Three-thread 1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for Overlock
ATD: A
ATD: B
ATD : Auto Tension Dial Selected
Seams also can be sewn at desired distance from edge of fabric by disengaging the right looper and movable knife.
seaming lightweight or stretch fabrics. It is also ideal for rolled and blind hemming. A 4 mm and 6 mm overlock seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position.
ideal for flatlock (butted or lapped) seams and blind hemming. A 4 mm and 6 mm overedge seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position.
overedging and seaming on common fabrics. A 4mm and 6 mm overlock seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position.
Page
39
41
42
43
5. Three-thread 1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for Flatlock butted or lapped seams and ornamental
stitching with decorative thread. Also, a 4 mm and 6 mm flatlock width can
ATD: F
6. Three-thread 2-needle 3-thread stitch that is ideal for Ultra-Stretch lightweight, extremely stretchy fabrics Mock Safety such as tricot and spandex. Stitch
ATD: G
7.Four-thread Ultra- 2-needle 4-thread stitch that is ideal
Stretch Mock for medium to heavyweight stretchy Safety Stitch fabrics such as double knits and swim
ATD: A
be obtained by changing the needle position.
Wear.
5
44
45
46
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Stitch Type Reference
ATD : Auto Tension Dial Selected
Page
8. Four-thread Safety Stitch made up of combined 2-thread
The 4-thread stitch is a safety stitch
overedge and double chainstitch.
ATD : I
9. Five-thread The 5-thread stitch is a safety stitch Safety Stitch made up of combined 3-thread Wide overlock and double chainstitch.
ATD : B
10. Five-thread The 5-thread stitch is a safety stitch
Safety Stitch made up of combined 3-thread Narrow overlock and double chainstitch. 48
ATD : A
11. Cover Stitch 2-needle, 3-thread cover stitch is
Narrow suitable for stretchy fabrics such as (2.8mm) knits, etc. 51
A wide seam is formed by using left needle.
Overedge and seaming can be done in one operation on non-stretch fabrics.
A narrow seam is formed by using right Needle. Overege and seaming can be done in one operation on non-stretch fabrics.
47
48
ATD : K
12. Cover Stitch 2-needle 3-thread cover stitch is
Wide suitable for stretchy fabrics such as (5.6mm) knits, etc.
ATD : H
13. Triple Cover 3-needle 4-thread cover stitch is
Stitch suitable for stretchy fabrics such as (5.6mm) knits, etc.
ATD : J
14. Three-thread 1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for sewing
Rolled Hem narrow rolled hems.
A narrow seam is formed by using left and middle needles.
A wide seam is formed by using left and right needles.
A triple seam is formed by using left, middle, and right needles
.
ATD : C
51
52
55
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* Depending on the needle positions used, this machine can sew 2-thread and 3-thread standard width 4 mm
overedge anda6mmwide overedge seams.
Also, for overedging heavyweight fabrics, the seam width can be increased still more by turning the overedge seam width adjustment knob. (See page )
Overedge width 4.0 mm 6.0 mm
Needle used Overedge right needle Overedge left needle
Needle thread Blue Orange tension fine tuning
31
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2. HANDY REFERENCE CHART
Stitch Type
Double Chain Stitch
1
Two - Thread Wrapped Edge
2
Overlock
Two - Thread
3
Overedge
Three - Thread
4
Overlock
Three - Thread
5
Flatlock
A T D
D
D
G
E
E
A
B
F
F
SLDFL
N
N
N
2
N
2
N
2
N
2
N
N
N
N
N
2
N
2
/
C
C
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
Needle Position
4.0mm
6.0mm
4.0mm
6.0mm
4.0mm
6.0mm
4.0mm
6.0mm
Correct Threading / Tension Path: When using the Auto Tension Dial (ATD), the correct tension is set automatically.
Orange Blue
Green Red Brown
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39
41
41
42
42
43
43
44
44
Three - Thread Ultra - Stretch mock
6
Safety Stitch four - Thread
7
Ultra - Stretch mock Safety Stitch
Four - Thread
8
Safety Stitch
Five - Thread Safety Stitch
9
Wide Five - Thread
Safety Stitch
10
Narrow Cover stitch
11
Narrow
Cover stitch
12
Wide
Triple Cover stitch
13
Three - Thread
14
Rolled Hem
G
N
A
N
I
N
B
N
A
N
K
N
H
N
J
1
C
L
N
L
N
L
N
L
N
L
N
N
N
N
2.8mm
C
5.6mm
C
5.6mm
C
4.0mm
L
N
2
45
46
47
48
48
51
51
52
55
ATD: Auto Tension Dial Selection SL: Stitch Length
DF: Differential Feed L / C: Upper Looper driving clutch position
*When option 2, 3, 6, 8 selected, use spreader. *When option 1, 11, 12, 13 selected, turn upper knife down, move seam width finger knob to setting R, and change looper cover
attached cover (A) into (B).
*Auto tension settings are based on medium weight fabric and standard # 60 polyester spun thread. It can satisfy most requirements
for sewing. If using a different thread weight or fabric and the result is not as you expected, please adjust tension in small increments.
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3. ACCESSORIES
Accessories are contained in the accessory case
1. Screw driver (large size)
2. Knife (stationary)
3. Thread Unwinder spool cap
4. Anti-spill net
5. Oiler
6. Allen Screw driver (small)
7. Tweezers
8. Needle set
9. Brush
10. Cone Adapters
11. Waste tray
12. Machine cover
1 1 5 5 1 1 1 1 1 5 (on machine) 1 in carton 1 in carton
1
2
6
3
789
4
5
4. NEEDLE INFORMATION
This overlock uses a flat shank industrial needle that eliminates the possibility of inserting the needle backwards.
Do not attempt to use a standard household sewing machine needle of any size or type in this overlock.
Singer needle #2022 size 14/90 is furnished with the machine.
Only use Needle #2022 size 14/90 and 11/80 as supplied in the accessory case.
10
11
12
#2022
Overlock needle
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5. PRINCIPAL PARTS
1. Thread guides and holder
2. Handle
3. Left needle thread tension fine tuning lever (orange)
4. Right needle thread tension fine tuning lever (blue)
5. Upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever (green)
6. Lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever (red)
7. Chain stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever (brown)
8. Needle plate
9. Cloth plate
10. Looper cover
11. Power & light switch
12. Stitch length dial
13. Hand wheel
14. Spool stand
15. Cone adaptor
16. Spool pin
17. Waste tray 1 . Auto tension dial8
6
4
3
5
17
1
2
7
18
8
9
16
15
14
12
13
10
11
10
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PRINCIPAL PARTS
19. Presser bar lifter and tension release
20. Differential feed adjusting dial
21. Cutting width dial
22. Presser foot pressure adjusting dial
22
19
20
21
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6. HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER
Caution:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
Push the cover to the right as far as it will go.
Pull cover down toward you.
Caution:
Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing.
Note: Machine will not operate when Looper Cover is open.
1
2
7. PRINCIPAL PARTS BEHIND THE LOOPER COVER
1. Upper looper
2. Moveable Upper knife
3. Presser foot
4. Fixed position lower knife
5. Lower looper
6. Chain/Cover looper
7. Rolled Hem lever
8. Spreader
9. Upper looper clutch
8. PREPARATION PRIOR TO SEWING
Connect the controller/electric plug to the machine receptacle.
Plug power line into electric outlet.
Power Switch: Push"l"mark side to turn "ON"
Push "O" mark side to turn "OFF" To run the machine and control the speed, press the controller.
The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew.
1
2
3
7
4
8
5
6
9
To stop the machine from sewing, remove your foot from the controller.
ON
OFF
WARNING:
Use only foot controller provided with this machine. (Type 4C-316B for U.S.A. & CANADA only) Be sure to make reference to "Warning" on following Page.
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POLARIZED PLUG INFORMATION (FOR U.S.A. & CANADA ONLY)
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
Warning:
* Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated
voltage of the motor.
* Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything
on top of it when not in use.
* Disconnect the power line plug from the electric outlet when changing needles, presser feet
or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the controller.
9. REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF WASTE TRAY
Replacement
Insert the waste tray under the looper cover.
Be sure the left side of waste tray is mounted near the
cutter where the scraps drop.
Removal
To remove, hold the waste tray as shown and
pull it outward.
1
2
3
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10. PREPARATION FOR THREADING
Setting Up the Thread Guide Holder
Take out the thread guide from the top of Styrofoam, and insert it as shown on illustration.
This machine is shipped with the thread guide holder in the lowered position.
Fully extend the thread guide holder.
The two joints on the telescope will click into place when they are correctly positioned.
Center the thread guides above the spool pins.
Place thread over the cone adapters on the spool pins.
Note: Your new machine is threaded to sew
Triple Cover Stitch. Refer to Page 30 for instructions on tying on to the threads.
Anti-spill Net
When using synthetic threads that easily spill off the cone, slip the anti-spill net furnished with the machine over the thread from the bottom of the cone leaving the thread end hanging free at the top of the anti-spill net as shown on illustration.
Spool Cap
When using a regular thread spool, fit the spool cap supplied with the machine onto the thread spool as shown on illustration.
Anti-spill net
Spool cap
Press in
Thread spool
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11. HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT NEEDLES
Needle Position
With this machine, five needles can be inserted into the needle clamp as shown in the drawing but only one or two or three needles are to be used for sewing. Do not attempt to use four or five needles.
The Instruction Book refers to different needle positions by illustrating the needle clamp at right.
Note: When both the left and right overedge needles
are inserted, the left needle will be slightly higher than the right. When all cover stitch needles are inserted,the center needle will be slightly higher than the right needle and the left needle slightly higher than the center needle.
Overedge left needle Overedge right needle
A
B
C
D
E
C
D
E
Cover stitch right needle Cover stitch middle needle
/ Chain stitch needle
Cover stitch left needle
Right overedge needle thread
D
Left and right overedge needle thread
To Remove Needle (s)
Caution:
Be sure to disconnect the machine from the electric outlet before removing needle(s).
Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needles are at their highest position.
Place a thick piece of fabric [such as felt] under the presser foot. Lower the needles halfway into the fabric.
Loosen, but do not remove the needle set screws with the small allen screwdriver. Hold the needles with your fingers and raise the needle bar. The needles will remain in the fabric.
A. Overedge needleleft B. Overedge needleright C. Cover stitch left needle D. Cover stitch middle needle E. Cover stitch right needle
To Insert Needles (s)
Hold the needle with the flat surface to the back.
Insert the needle into the needle socket as far as it will go.
Left, middle and right cover stitch needle thread
Chain stitch needle thread
B
C
D
Flat surface to the rear
B
A
A
B
E
When inserting a needle, if you first lower it down into the hole in the needle plate it will line up with the needle socket. Then direct it upwards
Note: When inserting needles into the A or B sockets
it is necessary to loosen both A & B Allen Screws. After inserting the needles equally tighten both screws.
This machine uses Singer #2022 needles. Do not use Standard Household Needles.
To tighten
To loosen
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12. THREADING THE MACHINE
Threading Diagram: Overlock and Safety Stitches
A color coded threading diagram is located inside the looper cover for quick reference.
Thread the machine in the order 1 to 5 as shown.
Note: Threads go through the take-up lever cover
for Overlock and Chain stitching as shown.
Chain stitch
Overlock
4
1
2
5
3
C
L
Tension Color Code: Overlock and Safety Stitch
1. Upper looper thread............................
2. Lower looper thread............................
3. Chain stitch looper thread...................
4. Right needle thread............................
5. Chain stitch needle thread..................
Green Red Brown Blue Orange
Threading Diagram: Cover Stitch
A color coded threading diagram is located inside
the looper cover for quick reference.
Thread the machine in the order 1 to 4 as shown.
Note: Threads go through take-up lever
cover for Cover stitch as shown.
2
4
5
3
4
1
3
2
1
Tension Color Code: Cover Stitch
1. Cover stitch looper thread.............
2. Right needle thread.......................
3. Middle needle thread.....................
4. Left needle thread..........................
Brown Green Blue Orange
16
C
L
2
4
3
1
Page 18
To Thread The Machine Correctly
Caution:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
Note: The instructions on this page and the following pages
will guide you through the proper threading for each color coded threading path. Before threading, refer to the Handy Reference Chart for information on Stitch Types, Settings, Needle Sockets and Color Coded Threading Paths.
1
2
3
4
1) Threading the (Green)Upper Looper
Thread the upper looper as indicated 1~9.
Raise Presser foot to release tension discs.
Note: The presser foot is raised by lowering the
Presser bar lifter. The motion allows a clear path for the fabric when sewing.
Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1.
Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated.
9
8
7
1
2
2
5
6
C
L
While holding thread with fingers, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3.
3
3
17
Page 19
Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides (4~9).
Thread the hole in the upper looper from front to back 9. Note: Make sure thread passes behind lower looper.
9
8
4
9
5
Note: Use tweezers provided in the accessory
case to aid in threading the looper.
Pull about 10cm(4 inches) of thread through the looper and place to the back of the needle plate.
2) Threading the (Red)Lower Looper
Thread the lower looper as indicated 1~10.
Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs.
6
7
1
2
3
4
10
9
8
5
7
6
8
Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1.
Thread the top cover
thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated.
2
1
2
18
Page 20
While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3.
Turn the hand wheel toward you until the lower looper extends out 5~10mm from the needle plate edge.
Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4~10.
3
3
10
9
8
7
4
5
Note: Use tweezers provided in the accessory
case to aid in threading the looper.
Place the thread with the point of the tweezers slightly from left and to the right of threading guide 4.
Place the thread with the point of the tweezers slightly from front and to the back of threading guide 5.
Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 10cm (4 inches) of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D).
6
4
8
5
9
7
6
10
A
D
B
19
C
Page 21
3) Threading the (Brown)Chain Stitch/Cover stitch Looper
Thread the chain stitch/cover stitch looper as indicated 1~11.
1
2
3
Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs.
Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1.
Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the right side of
2
button as illustrated.
10
11
9
2
5
4
6
7
8
1
While holding thread with fingers, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3.
3
3
20
Page 22
Turn the hand wheel toward you until the chain stitch looper extends out 10mm from the needle plate edge.
Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4~11.
Note: Use the tweezers provided in the accessory
case to aid in threading the looper.
Place the thread with the point of the tweezers through threading guide 4.
Place the thread with the point of the tweezers through the front slot of threading guide 5.
4
5
9
6
7
8
Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through the looper. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull threader lever (C) up into place (D).
4) Threading the (Blue)Overedge Right Needle (B on needle clamp)
Thread the right needle as indicated 1~9.
Raise Presser foot to release Tension discs.
by lowering presser bar lifter
10 11
A
B
1
2
3
6
7
5
8
4
D
C
21
9
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Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1.
1
Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under
2
guide. Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated.
While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3.
3
2
3
Continue to thread points 4~8.
Note: Slip thread into the rear slot on the thread
guide 5 and the slot of take-up lever cover 6. Then slip thread into the right slot on the thread guide 7, and into the right slot on the thread guide 8.
Before threading eye of needle, slip thread behind thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp.
22
7
6
8
9
4
5
Page 24
Thread the eye of the right needle 9.
Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will
make needle eye threading easy.
The position of the thread must be behind the thread guide.
Draw about 10cm(4 inches) of thread through needle eye towards the rear of machine.
Place the thread to the back, under the presser foot.
5) Threading the (Orange)Chain Stitch Needle (D on needle clamp)
Thread the left needle as indicated 1~9.
Raise Presser foot to release Tension discs.
by lowering presser bar lifter
9
1
2
3
6
7
5
4
8
Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1.
Thread the top cover Thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated.
9
1
2
2
23
Page 25
While holding thread with fingers, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3.
3
Continue to thread points 4~8.
Note: Slip thread into the middle slot of the thread
guide 5 and into the slot of take-up lever cover 6. Then continue by slipping thread into the middle slot of the thread guides 7 and 8.
Note: For 4 thread overlock left needle: Use needle
A.
Before threading eye of needle, slip thread behind thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp.
3
7
6
8
9
4
5
Note: For chain stitch :Use needle D.
Before threading eye of needle, make sure thread is located on the bottom ofin front of thread guide the needle clamp.
Thread the eye of the left needle 9.
Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will
make needle eye threading easy.
The position of the thread must be behind the the thread guide.
Draw about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through needle eye to hang free.
Place the thread to the back, under the presser foot.
9
24
Page 26
6) Threading the Cover Stitch Needles
(1) Threading the Cover Stitch Left Needle
(Orange) (C on needle clamp)
Thread the cover stitch left / chain stitch needle as indicated 1~9.
Raise Presser foot to release Tension discs.
Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1.
by lowering presser bar lifter
1
2
3
6
7
5
8
9
1
4
Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under
2
guide. Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated.
While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3.
3
2
3
25
Page 27
Continue to thread points 4~8.
Note: Slide thread into front slot on thread
guide 5 and slot of take-up lever cover 6. Then slip thread into left slots of thread guides 7 and 8.
7
6
Before threading eye of needle, make sure thread is located on the bottomin front of thread guide of the needle clamp.
Thread the eye of the left needle 9.
Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case
will make needle eye threading easy.
Draw about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through needle eye to hang free.
Place the thread to the back, under the presser foot.
8
9
4
5
9
(2) Threading the Cover Stitch Middle / Chain Stitch
Needle(Blue) (D on needle clamp)
Thread the cover stitch middle / chain stitch needle as indicated 1~9.
Raise the Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs.
26
1
2
3
6
7
5
8
9
4
Page 28
Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1.
1
Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the
2
right side of button as illustrated.
While holding thread with fingers, pass it between
the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3.
3
2
3
Continue to thread points 4~8.
Note: Slip thread into the middle slot of the thread
guide 5 and into the slot of take-up lever cover 6. Then continue by slipping thread into the middle slot of the thread guides 7 and 8.
Before threading eye of needle, make sure thread is
in front of thread guide located on the bottom of the
needle clamp for Cover stitch and for Chain stitch.
27
7
6
8
9
4
5
Page 29
Thread the eye of the middle needle 9.
Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will
make needle eye threading easy.
Draw about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through needle eye towards the back of the machine.
Place the thread to the back, under the presser foot.
(3) Threading the Cover Stitch Right Needle
(Green) (E on needle clamp)
Thread the cover stitch right needle as indicated 1-9.
Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs.
9
1
2
3
6
7
5
8
9
4
Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1.
Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the right side of
2
button as illustrated.
1
2
28
Page 30
While holding thread with fingers, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3.
3
Continue to thread points 4~8.
3
Note: Slip thread into the rear slot on thread
guides 5. Slip the thread into the slot of the Take-up Lever Cover 6. Slip the thread into the right slots for thread guides 7 and 8.
Before threading eye of needle, make sure thread is
in front of thread guide located on the bottom of the
needle clamp for Cover stitch.
Thread the eye of the right needle 9.
Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will
make needle eye threading easy.
Draw about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through needle eye towards the rear of the machine.
Place the thread to the back under the presser foot.
7
6
8
9
9
4
5
29
Page 31
13. HOW TO CHANGE THREADS: TIE ON METHOD
To change thread type or color, clip thread near the spool.
Place new thread on stand.
Tie new thread and old thread ends together with a square knot. Clip thread tails to 2~3cm (1 inch) length. If clipped too short, threads may come untied.
Firmly pull both thread to test knot security.
Raise Presser foot to release Tension discs.
Pull the threads through the machine one at a time.
If threads do not pull easily, check for tangles on thread guides or looping under thread stand.
When pulling thread through the needles, STOP when the knot is in front of the needle.
Cut the thread, and insert it through the needle.
by lowering presser bar lifter
30
Page 32
14. HOW TO ADJUST THE STITCH LENGTH
The stitch length dial should be set on the N setting for most sewing conditions.
Adjust the stitch length to N~ 4 when sewing heavy weight fabrics.
Adjust the stitch length to 2~N when sewing lightweight fabrics to obtain excellent seams without puckering.
15. HOW TO ADJUST THE SEAM WIDTH
Overedge seam width can be achieved by repositioning the needle position and also with the width adjustment knob.
4
3
N
2
Width Adjustment by Changing Needle Position
Overedge seam width can be adjusted by changing the needle position.
a) When using left needle.................................6 mm
(15/64 inch)
b) When only right needle is used....................4 mm
(10/64 inch)
c) When using chain stitch needle.................8.8 mm
(11/32 inch)
Width Adjustment with Adjustment Knob
Use of width adjustment knob will permit further adjustment within the width range shown below.
a) When using left needle...............................5~7mm
(13/64 ~ 17/64 inch)
b) When only right needle is used............3.0 ~ 5.0 mm
(1/8 ~ 3/16 inch)
c) When using chain stitch needle............7.8 ~ 9.8 mm
(5/16 ~ 3/8 inch)
6.0 mm
(15/64")
Left needle
5mm
(13/64")
7mm
(17/64")
4.0 mm
Right needle
3mm
(1/8")
5mm
(3/16")
8.8 mm
(11/32")(10/64")
7.8 mm
(5/16")
9.8 mm
(3/8")
Chain stitch
needle
31
Left needle
Right needle
Chain stitch needle
Page 33
Width adjustment knob
As shown on the illustration, turn the dial
counter clockwise to increase width of cutting, and clockwise to decrease width of cutting.
5.5
N
6.5
16. HOW TO ADJUST THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
The presser foot pressure of this machine is pre-adjusted at the factory to suit the sewing of medium weight fabrics.
Most of the materials do not require adjustment of presser foot pressure. However, there are some instances where adjustment is necessary, such as when sewing lightweight and heavyweight fabrics.
In such case, N for normal, 1 for the lightest pressure, and 5 for the heaviest.
For lightweight fabric...Decrease the pressure
For heavyweight fabric...Increase the pressure
5
4
N
2
1
32
Page 34
17. DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Differential feed is a system which "stretches" or "gathers" the fabric, when the amount of feed of front feed dogs in relation to the rear feed dogs is changed.
The differential feed ratio ranges from 1:0.6~1:2.0.
Adjustment is made by means of the differential feed
adjusting dial pictured at right.
2.0
1.5
N
Use of differential feed is very effective in overedging stretch fabrics and fabrics cut on the bias.
Setting "N" is differential feed adjusting dial setting for ratio 1:1.
Gathered Overedge
Gathered overedge is most suited for shirring sleeves, yokes, front and back bodices, skirt hems, etc. in stretch fabrics such as knits and jersey before assembling into garment.
0.8
0.6
To set the differential feed adjusting dial for gathering
Set differential feed adjusting dial below setting "N". Setting of adjusting dial depends on material being sewn as well as the amount of desired gather. Therefore, set dial to suit the fabric and test sew before sewing your garment.
Note: For normal overedge stitching, set differential
feed adjusting dial to graduation "N".
2.0
1.5
N
0.8
0.6
33
Page 35
Stretch Overedge
Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative collars, sleeves, skirt hems, etc. on loosely knit and woven fabrics.
To set the differential feed adjusting dial for stretch
Set differential feed adjusting lever knob above setting "N".
2.0
1.5
N
0.8
0.6
To sew a seam, apply gentle tension to the fabric by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the presser foot.
Note: *if amount of "stretch" is not correctly set in
relation to the fabric being sewn, the fabric is apt to shift away from the needle resulting in improperly sewn overedge seam. In such case, reset differential feed adjusting dial closer to the center mark.
*Be sure to reset the differential feed
adjusting dial to graduation "N" for normal overedge stitching.
34
Page 36
18. HOW TO DISENGAGE MOVABLE UPPER KNIFE
Caution:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
To place movable knife in nonworking position
Open looper cover (page 12).
Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go.
Turn the holder toward counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
To place movable knife in working position
1
2
Open looper cover.
Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go.
Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into the working position
Caution:
Always close looper cover before operating machine.
1
2
35
Page 37
19. TO CONVERT UPPER LOOPER TO SPREADER
Caution:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
When not threading the upper looper, the spreader must be engaged into the upper looper eye.
To Use the Spreader
To engage the spread , raise the white handle on the spreader to insert the tip into theereye of upper looper.
When using the upper looper, the spread must beer disengaged.
To Disengage to Upper Looper
To disengage the spreader, lower the white handle on the spreader.
36
Page 38
20. STANDARD OVEREDGE AND ROLLED HEM STITCHING
To Sew Standard Overedge
Set seam width finger knob to N to move seam width finger to standard overedge sewing position.
Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as
far as it will go in the direction of setting N.
N
R
To Sew Rolled Hem
Set seam width finger knob to R to retract the seam width finger and set it for rolled hem.
Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far
as it will go in the direction of setting R.
N
R
37
Page 39
21. CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING
Note: The following instructions do not apply to cover
stitch. For instructions on cover stitch, see
page 49 "How to Sew a Cover Stitch."
When the machine is completely threaded, bring all of the threads across the needle plate and slightly to the left under the presser foot.
Hold the threads and apply a slight tension.
Turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 complete turns to start the thread chain.
Lower presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter.
Continue holding the chain and press on the foot controller until the chain is 5~7.5 cm (2~3 inches) in length.
Place fabric under the front of the presser foot and sew a test sample.
Note: Do not pull on the fabric while sewing as this
may deflect the needle, causing it to break.
At the end of the sample, continue to run the machine with the presser foot down until the chain reaches 15 ~20 cm (6~8 inches) in length.
Note: In case it is difficult to chain off when
chain stitching, pull the fabric lightly
backward.
Cut thread.
Note: Anytime you have rethreaded the machine
always chain off and sew a text sample to
test tensions and make adjustments as
necessary.
Information
A mark to indicate the needle location is provided on the presser foot fitted on this machine. Use this mark as a guide when sewing.
Mark Mark
38
Page 40
22. SETTINGS AND SEWING
ATD:D
1) Double Chain stitch
Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables:
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
* Stitch length for double chain stitch should be
set at over 2mm.
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to D andas shown on illustration test sew on a sample of your fabric.
NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB
STITCH LENGTH
DRIVING CULTCH POSITION
Needle thread
Topside
R
2~4
C
Chain stitch
looper thread
Underside
How to Balance
When the chain stitch needle thread tension is too loose;
-Move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever (blue) toward a higher position.
-Or, move the chain stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever (brown) toward a lower position.
Fabric
Medium weight
Needle thread
Topside
Tension Dial
RedBlue GreenOrange Brown
Chain stitch
looper thread
Underside
39
Page 41
How to Sew
The double chain stitch is sewn with 2 threads, one needle and one looper. Normally, the machine trims the fabric edge while the seam is being sewn. However, a chain stitch seam can be placed at a desired distance from edge of fabric by putting the knife in a nonworking position, disengaging the upper looper and installing the chain stitch seam guide plate
Caution:
Be sure to turn off the power switch.
a) Move knife into nonworking position
See page 35 for instructions on placing upper knife in nonworking position.
b) Disengage upper looper
Turn handwheel till driving shaft is at its most right position, otherwise danger may occur.
Push clutch button to the left and up for cover stitch / chain stitch or to the left and down for overlock.
c) To re-engage upper looper
Turn handwheel till driving shaft is at its most right position, otherwise danger may occur.
Push clutch button to the left and up for cover stitch / chain stitch or to the left and down for overlock.
d) To install the seam guide plate
Knife cover
3
Seam guide plate
(A)
(B)
1
2
4
Open the looper cover Remove knife cover and install seam guide plate. The graduations on seam guide plate indicate the distance from chain stitch needle. Use this as a guide when checking the distance between cover stitch left needle and fabric edge.
e) Start and end of sewing
When starting to sew, pull the thread chain lightly to the rear of machine until the needle penetrates the fabric. When starting to sew after threading the machine, sew2~3cmonascrap fabric and chain-off to make a chain. At end of sewing, pull the fabric lightly to the rear of machine and chain-off.
40
Chain stitch
needle
25mm
(1")
2534 6
1
2
Page 42
2) 2-thread Wrapped Edge Overlock
Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables:
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to D or G as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB
STITCH LENGTH
2~4
SPREADER USE
Needle thread
Topside
Lower looper thread
Underside
ATD:D
Fabric
Medium weight
Orange
Tension Dial
Blue Green Brown
Spreader
Red
ATD:G
Fabric
Medium weight
Orange Blue Red Brown
Tension Dial
Green
Spreader
N
How to Balance
When the lower looper thread tension is too tight or needle thread tension is too loose;
-Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever (red) toward a lower position.
-Or, move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever (orange or blue) toward a higher position.
When the lower looper thread tension is too loose;
-Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever (red) toward a higher position.
Needle thread
Lower looper thread
Topside
Underside
Needle thread
Lower looper thread
Topside
Underside
41
Page 43
3) 2-thread Overedge
ATD:E
Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables:
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
* See page 36 for instructions on converting
upper looper to spreader.
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to E as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB
STITCH LENGTH
SPREADER
Lower looper thread
Topside
Fabric
Medium weight
Orange
Blue Red Brown
N
2~4
USE
Needle thread
Underside
Tension Dial
Green
Spreader
How to Balance
When the lower looper thread lies on the underside of the fabric;
-Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever (red) toward a higher position.
-Or, move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever (orange or blue) toward a lower position.
When the needle thread tension is too loose;
-Move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever (orange or blue) toward a higher position.
-Or, move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever (red) toward a lower position.
Needle thread
Topside
Lower looper thread
Topside
Lower looper thread
Underside
Needle thread
Underside
42
Page 44
4) 3-thread Overlock
Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables:
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to A or B as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB
STITCH LENGTH
SPREADER
Upper looper thread
Needle thread
Topside
Underside
ATD:A
Fabric
Medium weight
Orange
Blue Red Brown
ATD:B
Fabric
Medium weight
Orange
Blue
N
2~4
N/A
Lower looper thread
Tension Dial
Green
Tension Dial
Green BrownRed
How to Balance
When the upper looper thread lies on the underside of the fabric;
- the upper looper thread tensionMove fine tuning lever to a higher .(green) position
- Or, the lower looper thread tensionmove fine tuning lever
(red) positionto a lower .
When the lower looper thread appears on the top of the fabric;
- the lower looper thread tension (red)Move fine tuning lever
toward a higher .position
-Or, the upper looper thread tensionmove fine tuning lever
(green) positionto a lower .
When the needle thread is too loose, the needlemove tension (orange or blue) to a higher .fine tuning lever position
Upper looper thread
Needle thread
Topside
Upper looper thread
Needle thread
Topside
Upper looper thread
Needle thread
Topside
Lower looper thread
Underside
Lower looper thread
Underside
Lower looper thread
Underside
43
Page 45
5) 3-thread Flatlock
ATD:F
Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables:
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to F as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB
STITCH LENGTH
SPREADER
Needle thread
Upper looper thread
Topside
Fabric
Medium weight
Fabric
Medium weight
Orange
Orange
Blue Red Brown
Blue Red Brown
N
2~4
N/A
Needle thread
Lower looper thread
Underside
Tension Dial
Green
Tension Dial
Green
How to Balance
When the lower looper thread tension is too loose;
-Move the lower looper thread tension lever (red)fine tuning toward positiona higher .
- Or, the needle thread tension (orangemove fine tuning lever or blue) positiontoward a lower .
When the upper looper thread tension is too loose;
- the upper looper thread tensionMove fine tuning lever (green) positiontoward a higher .
- Or, the needle thread tension (orangemove fine tuning lever or blue) positiontoward a lower .
When the needle thread tension is too loose;
- the needle thread tension (orangeMove fine tuning lever or blue) positiontoward a higher .
-Or, the upper looper thread tensionmove fine tuning lever
(green) positiontoward a lower .
44
Needle thread
Upper looper thread
Topside
Needle thread
Upper looper thread
Topside
Needle thread
Upper looper thread
Topside
Needle thread
Lower looper thread
Underside
Needle thread
Lower looper thread
Underside
Needle thread
Lower looper thread
Underside
Page 46
6) 3-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch
ATD:G
Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables:
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to G as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
How to Balance
NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N
STITCH LENGTH
SPREADER USE
Right Needdle thread
Left Needle thread
Topside
Fabric
Medium weight
Orange
Right Needdle thread
Lower looper thread
Tension Dial
Blue Green
Spreader
Underside
Red
2~4
Brown
When the lower looper thread tension is too loose;
-Move the lower looper thread tension lever (red)fine tuning
toward a higher .position
When the left needle thread tension is too loose;
- the left needle thread tension (orange)Move fine tuning lever
toward a higher .position
When the right needle thread tension is too loose;
- the needle thread tension (blue)Move fine tuning lever
toward a higher .position
Left Needle thread
Topside
Left Needle thread
Topside
Right Needdle thread
Left Needle thread
Topside
Lower looper thread
Underside
Right Needdle thread
Lower looper thread
Underside
Lower looper thread
Underside
45
Page 47
7) 4-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch
ATD:A
Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables:
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to A as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
How to Balance
When the upper looper thread lies on the underside of the fabric;
-Move the upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever
(green) toward a higher position.
- Or, move lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever
(red) to a lower position.
When the lower looper thread appears on the top of the fabric;
-Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever
(red) toward a higher position.
- Or, move the upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever
(green) toward a lower position.
NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N
STITCH LENGTH 2~4
SPREADER
Upper looper thread
Right Needle thread
Left needle thread
Topside
Fabric
Medium weight
Right Needle thread
Left needle thread
Topside
Right Needle thread
Left needle thread
Orange Blue Green
Upper looper thread
Topside
Upper looper thread
Upper looper thread
Lower looper thread
Underside
Tension Dial
Lower looper thread
Underside
Lower looper thread
Underside
Red
N/A
Brown
When the left needle thread tension is too loose;
-Move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever (orange)
toward a higher position.
When the right needle thread tension is too loose;
-Move the right needle thread tension fine tuning lever
(blue) toward a higher position.
46
Right Needle thread
Left needle thread
Topside
Upper looper thread
Right Needle thread
Left needle thread
Topside
Lower looper thread
Underside
Lower looper thread
Underside
Page 48
8) 4-thread Safety Stitch
ATD:I
Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables:
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to I as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
How to Balance
NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N
STITCH LENGTH 2~4
SPREADER
Lower looper thread
Chain stitch Needle thread
Topside
Fabric
Orange Blue Green
Medium weight
Lower looper thread
Overedge Needle thread
Chain stitch looper thread
Underside
Tension Dial
Spreader
Overedge Needle thread
Red
USE
Brown
When the lower looper thread appears on the top of the fabric;
-Move the lower looper thread tension lever (red) to
a higher position.
- Or, the upper looper thread tension
move fine tuning
(green)
lever toward a lower position.
fine tuning
When the right needle thread is too loose;
- the right needle thread tension
Move fine tuning lever
(blue)
toward a higher position.
When the chain stitch needle thread tension is too loose;
- the chain stitch needle thread tensionMove fine tuning lever position(orange) toward a higher .
- Or, the chain stitch looper thread tensionmove fine tuning lever position(brown) toward a lower .
Chain stitch Needle thread
Topside
Lower looper thread
Chain stitch Needle thread
Topside
Lower looper thread
Chain stitch Needle thread
Topside
Chain stitch looper thread
Underside
Overedge Needle thread
Chain stitch looper thread
Underside
Overedge Needle thread
Chain stitch looper thread
Underside
47
Page 49
9) 5-thread Safety Stitch
ATD:B
Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables:
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to B as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
How to Balance
When the upper looper thread lies on the underside of the fabric;
-Move the upper looper thread tension lever (green)
to a higher position.
-Or, lower looper thread tension
move fine tuning lever
(red) to a
lower position.
fine tuning
NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB
STITCH LENGTH
SPREADER
Upper looper thread
Overedge Needle thread
Topside
Chain stitch needle thread
Fabric
Medium weight
Overedge Needle thread
Chain stitch needle thread
Orange
Upper looper thread
Topside
Upper looper thread
Blue
2~4
N/A
Lower looper thread
Chain stitch looper thread
Underside
Tension Dial
Green
Chain stitch looper thread
Red Brown
Lower looper thread
Underside
Lower looper thread
N
When the lower looper thread appears on the top of the fabric;
- the lower looper thread tension
Move fine tuning lever
(red) toward a
- Or, the upper looper thread tension
move fine tuning
(green)
lever toward a lower position.
higher position.
When the left needle thread tension is too loose;
- the left needle thread tension
Move fine tuning lever
(blue)
toward a higher position.
When the chain stitch needle thread tension is too loose;
- the chain stitch needle thread tensionMove fine tuning lever position(orange) toward a higher .
- Or, the chain stitch looper thread tensionmove fine tuning lever position(brown) toward a lower .
48
Overedge Needle thread
Topside
Chain stitch needle thread
Upper looper thread
Overedge Needle thread
Topside
Chain stitch needle thread
Upper looper thread
Overedge Needle thread
Topside
Chain stitch needle thread
Chain stitch looper thread
Underside
Lower looper thread
Chain stitch looper thread
Underside
Lower looper thread
Chain stitch looper thread
Underside
Page 50
23. HOW TO SEW A COVER STITCH
This machine can produce a 3-thread 5.6 mm wide bottom cover stitch.
The cover stitch can be used for covering, binding or top-stitching necklines and for hemming the bottom, of T-shirts and sweat suits, etc. in addition to flat joining seams (plain seaming).
The cover stitch is most suitable for stretchy fabrics such as knit.
It also can be used in woven fabrics such as denim, but careful attention must be paid to the tension settings or there is the possibility of thread breakage and or skipping.
If you experience skipping or thread breakage sewing denim change needles first and then adjust the tensions little by little (1/4 number at a time).
Machine Set up
Caution:
Be sure to turn off the power switch.
Open looper cover. (See page 12)
Disengage upper looper. (See page 40)
Place the movable upper knife in the non working position. (See page 35)
Set seam width finger knob on "R" side. (See page 37) Set C/L clutch (see page 40).
Remove overedge right needle (B) and overedge left needle (A).
For Triple 5.6mm cover stitch, install cover stitch right needle (E), cover stitch middle needle (D) and cover stitch left needle (C). (See pages 25 ~ 29)
Pass thread through needles (E), (D) and (C) and thread cover stitch looper [brown] (See pages 20 ~ 21)
Install seam guide plate. (See page 40)
The graduations on seam guide plate indicate the distance from cover stitch middle needle. Use it as a guide when positioning fabric edge.
Close looper cover.
C
Cover stitch middle needle
(D)
B
D
A
E
234265
1
25mm
()
1"
49
Page 51
Additional Information About Cover Stitch
Start and end of sewing
Note: Follow the instructions given below when sewing
cover stitches because chaining-off at the end of sewing is not possible.
At start of sewing
Raise presser foot by lowering the presser bar lifter.
Place material under presser foot behind the needle.
Lower presser foot .by raising the presser bar lifter
Note: When you start to sew from the middle of
the fabric, place the fabric at the desired starting point of sewing.
50
Page 52
2-Thread Cover Stitch Suggested Tension Settings
Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables:
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
* Stitch length for cover stitch should be set at
over N (2.5 mm).
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to K as shown on illustrationor H and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
How to Balance
When the cover stitch looper thread is too loose;
-Move the cover stitch looper thread tension lever (brown)
toward a higher position.
fine tuning
NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB
STITCH LENGTH
DRIVING CLUTCH POSITION
Cover stitch right needle thread
Cover stitch Left needle thread
Topside
ATD:K
Cover stitch looper Thread
Polyester Woolly nylon
Orange
Blue Red
ATD:H
Cover stitch looper Thread
Polyester Woolly nylon
Orange Blue RedGreen Brown
Cover stitch right needle thread
Tension Dial
Green
Tension Dial
R
N~4
C
Cover stitch
looper thread
Underside
Brown
Cover stitch
looper thread
When the cover stitch left needle thread tension is too loose;
- the cover stitch left needle thread tensionMove fine tuning lever position(orange) toward a higher .
-Or, cover stitch looper thread tension
move fine tuning lever
(brown)
toward a lower position.
When the cover stitch right needle thread tension is too loose;
- the cover stitch right needle thread tensionMove fine tuning lever position(blue) or (orange) toward a higher .
- Or, the cover stitch looper thread tensionmove fine tuning lever position(brown) toward a lower .
When the top surface of fabric bulges between needle threads and the seams on the underside of the fabric becomes tight;
- the cover stitch looper thread tensionmove fine tuning lever position(brown) toward a lower .
Cover stitch Left needle thread
Cover stitch Left needle thread
Topside
Cover stitch Left needle thread
Topside
Cover stitch Left needle thread
Topside
Topside
Cover stitch right needle thread
Cover stitch right needle thread
Cover stitch right needle thread
Underside
Underside
Underside
Underside
Cover stitch
looper thread
Cover stitch
looper thread
Cover stitch
looper thread
51
Page 53
3-Thread Cover Stitch Suggested Tension Settings
ATD:J
Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables:
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
* Stitch length for cover stitch should be set at
over N (2.5 mm).
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to J as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
How to Balance
When the cover stitch looper thread is too loose;
-Move the cover stitch looper thread tension lever
(brown)
toward a higher position.
When the cover stitch left needle thread tension is too loose;
- the cover stitch left needle thread tensionMove fine tuning
lever position(orange) toward a higher .
-Or, cover stitch looper thread tension
move fine tuning lever
(brown)
toward a lower position.
fine tuning
NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB
STITCH LENGTH
DRIVING CLUTCH POSTION
Cover stitch right needle thread
Cover stitch Left needle thread
Topside
Cover stitch looper Thread
Polyester
Woolly nylon
Cover stitch right needle thread
Cover stitch Left needle thread
Topside
Cover stitch right needle thread
Orange
Blue
Cover stitch
middle needle thread
Cover stitch
looper thread
Underside
Tension Dial
Green
Red
Cover stitch
middle needle thread
Cover stitch
looper thread
Underside
Cover stitch
middle needle thread
R
N~4
C
Brown
When the cover stitch middle needle thread tension is too loose;
- the cover stitch middle needle thread tensionMove fine tuning
lever position(blue) toward a higher .
-Or, cover stitch looper thread tension
move fine tuning lever
(brown)
toward a lower position.
When the cover stitch right needle thread tension is too loose;
- the cover stitch right needle thread tensionMove fine tuning
lever position(green) toward a higher .
-Or, the cover stitch looper thread tensionmove fine tuning
lever position(brown) toward a lower .
When the top surface of fabric bulges between needle threads and the seams on the underside of the fabric becomes tight;
- the cover stitch looper thread tensionmove fine tuning
lever position(brown) toward a lower .
52
Cover stitch Left needle thread
Topside
Cover stitch right needle thread
Cover stitch Left needle thread
Topside
Cover stitch right needle thread
Cover stitch Left needle thread
Topside
Cover stitch
looper thread
Underside
Cover stitch
middle needle thread
Cover stitch
looper thread
Underside
Cover stitch
middle needle thread
Cover stitch
looper thread
Underside
Page 54
Securing the seam end
Since the seams formed by cover stitch unravel when the looper thread is pulled out at the end of sewing, secure the seam end in the following manner.
When sewing through to the edge of fabric, among the threads coming out of the fabric edge, knot the needle threads (2 or 3 threads) together first, as shown on the illustration. Then, tie these threads with the looper threads.
When sewing is stopped halfway, pull out the needle threads (2 or 3 threads) on the underside of the fabric and knot the threads in the same manner as described above.
Cut extra threads.
Note: Normally, the seams at the start of sewing do
not unravel, but it is safe to secure the seam end following the same steps as described when sewing through to the edge of fabric.
53
Page 55
24. HOW TO SEW A ROLLED HEM
This machine can sew four types of rolled hems.
Rolled hemming is done by rolling and overedging
the fabric edge.
Light weight fabrics such as lawn, voile, organdy, crepe, etc. perform the best.
Rolled hemming is not suited for heavy or stiff fabrics.
NOTE: Rolled hemming can only be performed
with the overedge right needle.
Machine Set up
Caution:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
Remove the overedge left needle, chain stitch needle and cover stitch needle(s).
Move seam width finger knob to setting R.
Align left face of seam width finger support plate with R mark on needle plate by turning seam width adjustment knob, as required.
Set stitch length dial to "1~2" and a fine seam will be sewn.
Needle: Singer Cat. No. 2022 #14/90 or 2022 #11/80
Thread: A variety of thread combinations can be used for rolled hemming.
R
N
2
1
54
Page 56
Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper looper
with wooly nylon and the needle and lower looper with lightweight regular thread.
1) 3-thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching
NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R
STITCH LENGTH
1~2
DRIVING CLUTCH POSITION
Upper looper thread
L
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to A as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
2) 3-thread Upper Looper Thread Wrapped Rolled Hem Stitching
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to C as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
Topside
ATD:A
Light Weight fabric
Polyester
Woolly nylon
Needle thread
Upper looper thread
Topside
Needle thread
Orange Blue
Lower looper thread
Underside
Tension Dial
Green Red Brown
Lower looper thread
Underside
55
ATD:C
Light Weight fabric
Polyester Woolly nylon
Orange
Needle thread
Tension Dial
Blue
Green Red Brown
Page 57
Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the lower looper
with wooly nylon and the needle with lightweight regular thread.
Convert upper looper to spreader. (See page 36)
NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R
STITCH LENGTH
1~2
SPREADER USE
3) 2-thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to E as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
4) 2-thread Lower Thread Wrapped Rolled Hem Stitching
Correct Balance
Set auto tension dial to D as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
Topside
ATD:E
Light Weight fabric
Woolly nylon
Lower looper thread
Orange Blue
Needle thread
Needle thread
Underside
Tension Dial
Green Red Brown
Spreader
56
Topside
ATD:D
Light Weight fabric
Polyester
Woolly nylon
Orange Blue
Lower looper thread
Underside
Tension Dial
Green Red Brown
Spreader
Spreader
Page 58
Additional Information About Rolled Hemming
Hold the thread chain when you begin sewing to keep it from curling into the seam.
Place a slight tension on the material in the sewing direction and a finer seam finish can be obtained.
The minimum overedge stitch width that can be obtained for rolled hemming is approximately
1.5 mm (1/16 inch) since the cutting width cannot be set below 3.5 mm (9/64 inch).
To Secure the Rolled Hem Thread Chain
Apply a small drop of liquid seam sealant to the end of the seam. Allow to dry, then cut the chain close to the stitches.
Note: Test the liquid seam sealant for color
fastness before use.
57
Page 59
25. STITCH VARIATIONS AND SEWING TECHNIQUES
How to Sew a Flatlock Decorative Seam
A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension of the 2-thread or 3-thread overlock stitch, sewing the seam, and then pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam.
The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction and decorative stitch or for ornamentation only.
1) Machine Set Up
Use either overedge right needle or overedge left needle.
Begin with the machine threaded and tension ATD-E balanced for the 2-thread overedge (page 42) or 3-thread flatlock stitch ATD-F (page 44).
2) Flatlocking a Seam
Place the fabric wrong sides together to sew a decorative stitch on the right side of the garment.
Sew the seam, trimming the excess fabric.
The needle thread (orange or blue) will formaVonthe underside of the fabric.
The lower looper thread will pull into a straight line at the fabric edge.
Pull on opposite sides of the seam to pull the stitches flat.
Needle thread
Upper looper thread
Topside
Needle thread
Lower looper thread
Underside
58
Page 60
(3) Decorative Flatlocking
Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking position (page 35). The fabric is not trimmed on this stitch.
Fold fabric wrong sides together.
Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part of the stitch extending off the fabric.
Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten.
1
2
(4) Additional Information About Flatlocking
The tensions must be correctly fine tuned for the fabric to pull flat.
The upper looper thread is the prominent thread in the flatlock stitch. Place a decorative thread in the upper looper and inconspicuous threads in the lower looper and needle.
For a ladder stitch, sew seam with right sides together. The needle thread will be the prominent thread that creates the ladder (A).
A
Underside
59
Topside
Page 61
How to Sew an Overlock Blind Hem
The excess fabric is trimmed and the hem is sewn and the raw edges are overlocked in one operation.
The overlock blind hem is best suited for sewing knit wear. It provides a durable finish that is almost invisible.
Use overedge right needle and adjust machine for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch. (See page 43)
Note: The three-thread flatlock stitch can also be used.
(See page 44)
Set the stitch length dial at 4
Fold the hem to the wrong side of the fabric, then back to the right side with 6 mm (1/4 inch) beyond the fold.
Stitch on the extended hem edge, allowing the machine needle to barely catch the edge of the fold.
Note: An optional blindstitch foot is available.
(See page 68)
4
How to Sew Pin Tucks
Sew decorative pin tucks on the fabric before cutting out the garment.
Use overedge right needle and adjust machine for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch. (See page 43)
Note: The rolled hemstitch can also be used for this
technique.
Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking position. (See page 35)
Mark the fabric with the desired number of pin tucks using a water-soluble fabric marker
1
2
60
Page 62
Fold the fabric with the wrong sides together and sew.
Press the pin tucks in the same direction.
Turning Square Corners
(1) Outside Corner
Cut out approximately 2cm (51/64 inch) from the corner, in line with the overedge seam edge.
Sew one stitch beyond point (A) and stop.
Raise needle and presser foot.
Pull the fabric to the rear of the machine just enough to release the thread caught on the finger of the needle plate.
Note: Presser foot has been removed to show detail.
Turn the fabric and lower the presser foot so that the knife is positioned in line with the cut edge.
Pull slack threads up, then start to sew.
Cutting line
A
2cm
2cm
Cutting line
A
Knife
61
Cutting line
Page 63
(2) Inside Corner
Cut inside corner up to seam line as shown
Sew along seam line.
Sew up to end of fold. (Leave needle in fabric)
Raise presser foot. (Leave needle in fabric)
Spread fold and re-fold so that seam line is straight.
Pin Placement
Insert pins to the left of the presser foot. The pins will be easy to remove and are away from the cutting action of the knives.
Seam line
Cut
Needle position
Seam line
Caution:
Sewing over pins will damage and /or destroy the cutting edge of the knives.
Securing the Thread Chain
Thread a large eye, hand sewing needle (such as a tapestry needle) with the thread chain.
Insert the needle into the end of the seam to secure thread.
Note: To secure a rolled hem thread chain, see
page 57.
62
Page 64
How to Reinforce a Seam
Inserting twill tape while overedge sewing will stabilize the seam.
Insert the tape through the hole in the front of the foot.
Position the tape under the foot to the back of the machine and sew the garment seam.
The tape is attached as the seam is sewn.
Braiding by Chaining off
Place the movable upper knife in nonworking position.
Insert filler cord such as yarn or twill type through the hole in the front of the foot.
Position the filler cord under the foot and chain off the desired length.
Chained off braids can be used individually or woven into 3 or 4 ply braids.
63
Page 65
26. MACHINE MAINTENANCE
An overlock machine requires more maintenance than a conventional machine for two reasons:
1) A lot of lint is produced due to the cutting action of the knives.
2) An overlock runs at a very high speed and needs to be oiled frequently to lubricate the internal working parts.
Cleaning the Machine
Danger:
Before cleaning your machine, disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle.
Clean the lint from the looper and knife area often with a dry lint brush.
Oiling the Machine
Danger:
Before lubricating your machine, disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle.
The oiling points shown in the diagram, should be oiled periodically.
Note: Use only sewing machine oil. Do not use any
other oil or damage could result.
64
A
B
C
D
Page 66
How to Replace the KnifeMoveable Upper
Danger:
Before replacing the knife,mov able uppere disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle.
a
The mov able upper knife should be changed when it becomes dull.
The mov able upper knife can be replaced accordinge to the directions provided, however if there are any difficulties experienced, consult your Singer representative to make the replacement.
Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected from the electric source.
Open the looper cover and set the mov able upper knife (a) in the working position.
Loosen the mov able upper knife set screw (b) and remove the mov able upper knife (a).
Turn the hand wheel to lower the mov able upper knife holder to its lowest position.
In this position, put a new mov able upper knife in thee groove of the mov able upper knife holder, making suree that the edge of the mov able upper knife is approximatelye
0.5 to 1.0 mm below the surface of the fixed cutting blade (d).
Tighten mov able upper knife set screw (b).e
e
e
e
e
e
b
c
0.5~1mm
d
b
65
Page 67
How to Exchange Light Bulb
Danger:
Always unplug before re-lamping.
Light bulb is available at your Singer shop. Take old bulb to the Singer shop and ask for the same bulb.
If voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of your machine is 120V, ask for light bulb conforming to following specification.
- Bayonet type: 110~120V, 15W Glass shape: T-20 Lamp cap: E12 Overall length: 48mm
Remove light cover screw and while pushing the cover lightly to the rear, swing cover to the left and remove from machine as shown in the illustration. Turn bulb to the left to remove. To replace the bulb, push bulb into the socket and turn to the right.
Caution:
Be sure the light bulb has cooled off before changing with a new one.
Light cover screw
Warning:
Replace the light cover first before connecting the power line plug.
If voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of your machine is 220-240V, ask for light bulb conforming to following specification.
-Edison type (screw type): 220 ~240V, 15W
Glass shape: T-22
Lamp cap: E14
Overall length: 56mm
Remove light cover screw and while pushing the cover lightly to the rear, swing cover to the left and remove from machine as shown in the illustration. Turn bulb to the left to remove. To replace the bulb, screw bulb into the socket and turn to the right.
Replace Remove
Replace Remove
66
Page 68
27. OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
The following optional presser feet specially prepared for this machine are available at extra-charge.
Note: Do not use presser foot made for other
machines. Use of such presser foot may result in interference with the needle and knife and can be hazardous.
The snap-on type presser foot of this machine permits easy removal and replacement.
Caution:
Be sure to disconnect the power line plug or turn off the power switch when changing the presser foot.
Snap-On Type Presser Foot
Removal
Raise presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter and raise needle bar to ist highest position.
A
C
Press red colored lever (A) located on back of clamp under the presser foot shank, raise presser bar lifter to its High Lift position by pressing down on the presser bar lifter and while holding the presser bar lifter in this position, remove the presser foot plate.
Replacement
Place presser foot on needle plate under presser foot shank so that hinge pin (C) will fit in slot (B) of the shank. Then lower presser foot by raising presser bar lifter.
If presser foot can not be placed under presser foot shank easily, raise presser bar by pressing down on the presser bar lifter to its High Lift position and while holding it in this position, place presser foot plate under presser foot shank. Then lower presser by raising presser bar lifter.
Raise presser bar lifter and make sure the presser foot is properly attached to the presser foot shank.
B
67
Page 69
Optional Presser Feet
1) Elastic Foot
This foot is used for attaching elastic tape to the garment and the amount of contraction of the elastic tape can be adjusted as required.
2) Blind Hem Foot
This foot is for sewing cuffs on knit fabrics, skirt and trouser seams where seam should not be visible.
3) Shirring Foot
This foot is most suited for gathering when sewing tiered skirts, yokes, cuffs and frills on skirts, etc. This foot is also suited for sewing two fabrics together and gathering the bottom fabric in one operation.
4) Pearl/Sequin Foot
This foot is used for sewing on beads, etc.
5) Piping/ Cording Foot
This sewing foot is suited for sewing welting between two plies of fabric.
6) Taping Foot
This sewing foot is suited for sewing on tapes, etc.
68
Page 70
28. TROUBLESHOOTING CHART
SolutionProblem Page
Fabric does not feed well - Lengthen stitch length.
- Increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight fabric.
- Decrease presser foot pressure for lightweight fabric.
Needle breaks - Insert needle correctly.
- Do not pull fabric while sewing.
- Tighten needle set screw.
- Use a larger needle on heavy fabrics.
Thread breaks - Check threading.
- Check for tangled or caught thread.
- Insert needle correctly.
- Insert new needle, current needle may be bent or have a blunt Point.
- Use only high quality thread.
- Loosen thread tension.
Stitch skip - Insert new needles, current needles may be bent or have a blunt
point. Use only Singer Branded Style 2022 Needles
- Tighten needle set screw.
- Insert needles correctly.
- Change type or size of needles.
- Check threading.
- Increase presser foot pressure.
- Use a high quality thread.
31 32 32
15 38 15 15
16~29
30 15
9
70
34~49
9 15 15 15
16~29
32 70
Irregular stitches - Fine tune thread tension.
- Check for tangled or caught thread.
- Check threading.
Fabric puckers - Loosen thread tension.
- Check for tangled or caught thread.
- Use high quality lightweight thread.
- Shorten stitch length.
- Decrease presser foot pressure for lightweight fabrics.
Irregular trimming - Check alignment of knives.
- Replace one or both knives.
Fabric jams - Close looper cover before sewing.
- Check for tangled or caught thread.
- Compress thick layers of fabric with conventional machine before sewing with overlock.
Machine does not operate - Connect machine to power source.
69
39~49
30
16~29
39~52
30 70 31 32
65 65
12 30
12
Page 71
29. RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CLOTH, THREAD AND NEEDLE
Type of Fabric Type of Thread
WOVEN
Lightweight
Cotton: #100 Lawn, Organdy, Voile, Crepe, etc.
Medium Weight
Muslin, Seersucker, Satin, Gabardine, Broadcloth, etc
Heavy Weight
Oxford, Denim, Tweed, Serge,Corduroy Spun:#60 ~ #80
Silk/ Rayon: #100
Spun: #80 ~ #90
Polyester: #80 ~ #100
Cotton: #60 ~ #80
Silk/ Rayon: #50
Spun: #60 ~ #80
Polyester: #60 ~ #80
Cotton: #40 ~ #60
Silk/ Rayon: #40 ~ #60
Polyester: #50 ~ #80
Needle
Singer Cat. #2022
#11/80
#14/90, #11/80
#14/90
KNIT
Tricot
Jersey
Wool (woven, knit)
Spun: #80 ~ #90
Polyester: #60 ~ #80
Spun: #60 ~ #80
Polyester: #60 ~ #80
Cotton: #60 ~ #80
Spun: #60 ~ #80
Polyester: #50 ~ #60
Woolly nylon
Woolly Polyester
70
#11/80
#14/90, #11/80
#14/90, #11/80
Page 72
30. SPECIFICATION
Item
Sewing speed
Stitch length (feed amount)
Differential feed ratio
Overedge stitch width
Cover stitch needle gauge
Needle bar stroke
Pressure foot rise
Needle
Number of threads
Machine dimensions (mm)
Width Depth Height
Specification
1,300 spm maximum
1~4 mm (standard: rolled hemming 1-2, ordinary overedge N=2.5)
1:0.6 ~ 1:2 (with differential feed machine)
Rolled hemming 1.5 mm, ordinary overedge 3.0 ~ 9.8 mm (Standard 4 mm)
Two needles: 2.8 mm (narrow), 5.6 mm (wide) Triple needles: 5.6 mm
27 mm
4.5 mm
Singer #2022 (EL x 705) #14, #11
2~5
360 290 300
Weight (kg)
9.0 kgs
71
Page 73
Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating
to electrical /electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance.
Page 74
G5P21
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