Pfaff Admire 1000 User guide

User’s Guide
This household overlock machine is designed to comply with IEC/EN/CSA C22.2 No. 60335-1 & 60335-2-28 and UL1594.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Read all instructions before using this household overlock machine. When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed,
including the following: Keep the instructions at a suitable place close to the machine. Make sure to hand them over if the
physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision. It is not allowed for children up to and including 13 years to play with the machine. Children up to 13 years are not allowed to use the machine.
WARNING To reduce the risk of burns, re, electric
shock, or injury to person:
A overlock machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. The electrical socket, to which the machine is plugged in, should be easily accessible. Always unplug this overlock machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning, removing covers, lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this overlock machine is used by or near children.
Use this overlock machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
Never operate this overlock machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the overlock machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
Never operate the overlock machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the overlock machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
Keep ngers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the overlock machine needle.
Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
Do not use bent needles.
Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deect the needle causing it to break.
Wear safety glasses.
Switch the overlock machine off (“0”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, changing presser foot, etc.
Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
Do not use outdoors.
Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administrated.
To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“0”) position, then remove plug from outlet.
Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
The foot control is used to operate the machine. Never place other objects on the foot control.
Do not use the machine if it is wet.
If the LED lamp is damaged or broken, it must be replaced by the manufacturer or its service
agent or a similarly qualied person, in order to avoid a hazard.
If the cord connected with the foot control is damaged, it must be replaced by the manufacturer
or its service agent or a similarly qualied person, in order to avoid a hazard.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
We reserve the right to change the machine equipment and the assortment of accessories without prior notice, or make modications to the performance or design. Such modications, however, will always be to the benet of the user and
the product.
Intellectual Property
PFAFF, ADMIRE, and PERFECTION STARTS HERE are trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l.
Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating to electrical/electronic products. Do not dispose of electrical appliances as unsorted muncipal waste, use separate collection facilities. Contact your local government for information regarding the collection systems available. When replacing old appli­ances with new ones, the retailer may be legally obligated to take back your old appliance for disposal free of charge.
If electrical appliances are disposed of in landlls or dumps, hazardous substances can leak into the groundwater and get into
the food chain, damaging your health and well-being.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. KNOWING YOUR MACHINE 6
Foot control 8
Power / light switch 8
Opening front cover 8
Opening work table 8
Preparation for threading 9
Thread guide pole 9
Spool discs and spool holders for cone spools 10
Spool nets 10
Waste tray 11
Intergated seam guide 11
Thread knife 11
Changing presser feet 11
Needle / Thread / Fabric Chart 12
12
2. GETTING READY TO SEW
Threading the machine 13
Trimming needle thread 16
Stitch Settings 18
Adjusting thread tensions 24
Basic techniques 28
Turning curved edges 28
Removing stitches from sewn fabric 28
Flatlocking using two threads or using three threads (at seam) 30
Butted seams using two threads or using three threads (at seam) 30
Pintucking using three threads 30
Making decorative braid using three threads 30
Differential feed applications 31
3. CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE 32
4. CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS 34
SPECIFICATION OF MACHINE
MODEL admire 1000
Number of threads 2, 3 or 4 threads
Overedge stitch width (Max.) 7 mm (left needle)
Needle Overlock Needle, Style 2022
Stitch length 1-5mm
Stitching speed Up to 1300 stitches per minute
Width: 320mm (12.6 inches)
Dimensions
Weight 9 kg (20 Lbs)
Length: 385mm (15.2 inches)
Height: 370mm (14.6 inches)
1. KNOWING YOUR MACHINE
Identication chart
1
2
9
10
11
12
3
4
5
6
13
14
15
16
17
7
8
18
21
28
22
23
24
25
20
19
27
26
29
30
1. Presser foot pressure regulator
2. Thread knife
3. Presser foot lever
4. LED lamp
5. Needle plate
6. Presser foot
7. Overedge cutting width dial
8. Working table
9. Thread guide pole
10. Left needle thread tension control
11. Right needle thread tension control
12. Upper looper thread tension control
13. Lower looper thread tension control
14. Needle thread guides
15. Two thread converter instruction
16. Threading chart
6
17. Waste tray
18. Foot control
19. Release lever
20. Foot release lever
21. Spool disc
22. Differential feed control dial
23. Stitch length dial
24. Hand wheel
25. Plug connector socket
26. Light and power switch
27. Front cover
28. Moving cutter
29. Lower looper
30. Upper looper
Accessories
Parts listed are included with your machine.
1. Two-thread converter
2. Stitch finger (B)
(A) is already on the machine upon delivery.)
3. Needles
4. Lint brush
5. Screwdriver (small)
6. Soft dust cover
7. Screwdriver (large)
8. Moving cutter
9. Tweezer
10. Wrench
11. Thread spool nets
12. Spool discs
13. Spool holders
14. Accessory bag
(Stitch finger
1
2
3
5
4
6
7
9
10
8
11
12
13
14
7
Setting up your machine
1. Wipe off any excess oil in the needle plate and bed areas.
2. FOOT CONTROL
Push foot control plug into connector socket, and connect the power line plug into power sup­ply outlet.
Be aware that some appliances can be delivered with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to t in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not t fully in the out­let, reverse the plug. If it still does not t, con­tact a qualified electrician to install the proper
outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
Connector
Socket
Power/light switch
3. POWER/LIGHT SWITCH
Your machine will not operate unless the power/ light switch is turned on. This same switch con­trols both machine power and sewing light.
When leaving the machine unattended, or ser­vicing the machine, remove the power line plug from supply outlet.
4. OPENING FRONT COVER
To open front cover, pull it to the right and down towards you.
5. OPENING WORKING TABLE
To open working table, pull the release lever to­wards you with your right hand, and lift the front of presser foot up with your left hand.
Working table
Release lever
Front cover
Note: The moving part at the front of the presser foot
is for protecting the ngers while sewing. Normally it is down, but can be lifted momentarily to check cutting sta-
tus.
8
Preparation for threading
Thread guide pole
Pull up thread guide pole to the highest point until you hear it click.
Place thread spools on pins and draw thread through thread guides on the pole from back to front.
The thread guides of the pole can help hold thread spools in place while the machine is not in use. Push down on the pole, as illustrated below.
Thread guide pole
Thread guide
9
Spool caps for domestic type spools
Spool discs and spool holders for cone spools
For large cone spools use the spool holders with the wide end at the top, and for small ones, use the same spool holders but with the narrow end at the top.
Spool cap
Domestic thread spool
Cone type thread
Spool nets
Polyester or bulky nylon threads may tend to spill from the spool while unwinding. To keep con­sistent feeding of such threads, utilize spool net sleeving over the spool.
Spool holder
Spool disc
Thread comes off the top
Net
Net
Turn up
Spool
10
Spool
Waste tray
The waste tray can be attached to the machine, and it is used to catch waste trimmings as you sew.
After completion of work, remove the waste tray.
Intergated seam guide
The integrated seam guide helps you sew straight, whether sewing seams or edges. Fabric is placed along the edge of the guide. The guide is adjustable and can be set for de­sired seam allowance.
Slots for attaching tray
Thread knife
The thread knife is built in, toward the back side of the face cover. Draw the thread chain toward the rear and cut off excess threads with the thread knife, as shown.
Changing presser feet
Be sure needle is in the up position.
Raise presser foot lever.
1. Push foot release lever to remove the foot.
2. Place the desired foot on the needle plate aligning needle holes.
3. Lower the presser foot lever and push foot release lever so that the foot holder snaps on the foot.
Foot release lever
11
Changing the needle
Raise needle bar to its highest point by turning hand wheel towards you, but leave presser foot down. Loosen needle clamp screw to remove the needle, and place new needle with at side away from you, into the nee­dle bar as far as it will go, and tighten screw.
Flat side away from you
Needle clamp screws
Fabric / Needle / Thread Chart
Your machine uses Style 2022 overlock needles. There are two Style 2022 needles, size 90/14, already inserted.
The additional needles in your included accessories are 3 more size 90/14 needles and 2 size 80/12 needles.
Light Fabric
(voile, crepe, georgette, etc.)
Needles
Style 2022, size 80/12
Thread
Thread suitable for overlock machines
Medium Fabric
(cotton, linen, chino, wool, satin, etc.)
Needles
Style 2022, size 80/12
Heavy Fabric
(denim, tweed, etc.)
Needles
Style 2022, size 90/14
Knits
Stretch fabrics
Needles
Style 2022, size 80/12
Synthetic threads are recommended for ordinary overlocking. Polyester thread, for example, is very useful for different types of
fabric.
NOTE: Keep in mind that the lower and upper loopers will use about twice the amount of thread as the needles. When purchasing thread for sewing, therefore, especially if it is an special colour, you should buy sufcient for your requirements.
12
2. GETTING READY TO SEW
Threading your machine
Wrong threading may cause skipped stitches, breaking threads, or other problems.
Try to master the correct threading before moving on to test sew­ing.
Threading must be carried out in the sequence of Upper Looper -
Lower Looper - Needle.
Open the front cover and the working table.
Raise needle to its highest point by turning hand wheel towards you, and raise the presser foot.
Before re-threading the lower looper after a thread break, remove thread from needle eye first, then re-thread the lower
looper. This will prevent tangling.
Threading upper looper
1. Feed the thread through the thread guides as illustrated.
2. Pull the upper thread through the slot, holding the thread with your left hand.
3. Draw the thread through the thread guide as illustrated.
4. Pass the thread through wire thread guide and looper eye, leaving
an excess length of about 4” (10 cm).
1
2
4
3
13
3
1
2
4
A
Threading lower looper
1. Feed the thread through the thread guide as illustrated.
2. Pull the lower thread through tension slot. Holding the thread with your left hand, pull down with right hand firmly.
3. Draw the thread through thread guides as illustrated.
4. Pass the thread through lower looper eye, and then place the thread over the upper looper. Make sure the thread is over the upper loop-
er (not under it), or the machine will not sew. Leave about 4” (10cm) extra thread.
14
Threading needles
1. Feed the thread through the thread guide as illustrated.
2. Draw the needle threads through needle thread tension slots. Holding the thread with your left hand, pull down with right hand firmly.
3. Draw the thread through the thread guides as illustrated.
4. Thread the needles from front to back through needle eye and pull the threads towards the back passing along the right side
of presser foot, leaving an extra length of about 4”(10cm).
1
2
4
3
15
Helpful hints
Replacing thread spools
When replacing thread spools, the following
steps may be helpful for quick changeover.
1. Cut off existing threads near the spools. Tie the cut ends thread from new spools as illustrated.
2. Raise presser foot.
3. Lower needle bar to its lowest position by turning hand wheel away from you. Carefully pull the existing threads until the connecting knots pass through needle eye and looper eyes.
Trimming needle thread
Frayed thread may make needle threading dif­cult.
Draw the thread passing under the thread knife and turn hand wheel towards you to obtain clear cut end as illustrated.
1
2
3
16
Testing overlock stitches
After threading is completed, use a scrap of the same fabric you are planning to sew on and test sew following the instructions below.
1. With all threads under the presser foot, gently pull
all threads to the left, then lower the presser foot. Rotate the hand wheel towards you a few times to see if the lock stitches are properly formed.
2. Start the machine at low speed and feed in test fab-
ric under the presser foot by slightly pushing it for-
ward. (This can be done with the presser foot down on most fabrics except bulky materials.)
Fig.1
Guide the fabric gently as machine automatically feeds the fabric.
3. Check thread tensions by test sewing on spare fab-
ric.
4. At fabric end, carry on running machine at low
speed, gently pulling the fabric towards the back, un-
til about 5 to 6cm (2 to 2.5”) of extra lock stitches
are produced without fabric.
5. Cut thread by thread knife on face cover, or with
scissors.
Fig.2
Fig.3
17
STITCH SETTINGS
Combination Needle
Stitch
2-thread overlock, wide
2-thread overlock, narrow
position
Left 6 2.5 2 A Yes 1 --- --- 7
Right 6 2.5 2 B Ye s --- 1 --- 8.5
Cutting
width
Stitch
length
Number of
threads
Stitch
nger
2-thread
converter
Tension
Left Needle
Right Needle
Upper looper
Lower looper
2-Thread wrapped edge overlock, wide
2-Thread wrapped edge overlock, narrow
Left 6 3.5 2 A Yes 4 --- --- 1
Right 6 3 2 B Yes --- 4 --- 5
18
Combination Needle
Stitch
position
2-thread rolled edge
Right 6 2 2 None Ye s --- 5 --- 4
2-thread narrow edge
Right 4 2 2 None Ye s --- 1 --- 8.5
Cutting
width
Stitch
length
Number of
threads
Stitch
nger
2-thread
converter
Tension
Left Needle
Right Needle
Upper looper
Lower looper
2-thread atlock stitch
3-Thread picot stitch
Left 6 2.5 2 A Yes 1 --- --- 5.5
Right 7 P 3 None No --- 4 3.5 5.5
19
Combination Needle
Stitch
position
3-thread overlock stitch, wide
Left 6 3 3 A No 4 --- 4 3.5
3-thread overlock stitch, narrow
Right 6 3 3 B No --- 4 5 4
Cutting
width
Stitch
length
Number
of threads
Stitch
nger
2-thread
converter
Tension
Left Needle
Right Needle
Upper looper
Lower looper
3-thread atlock stitch, narrow
3-thread stretch overlock
Right 5 3 3 B No --- 0 4 9
Left &
Right
6 P 3 A Yes 4 4 --- 2
20
Combination Needle
Stitch
position
3-thread rolled edge
Right 6 R 3 None No --- 4.5 3.5 4
3-thread narrow edge
Right 6 2 3 None No --- 4 4 0.5
Cutting
width
Stitch
length
Number
of threads
Stitch
nger
2-thread
converter
Tension
Left Needle
Right Needle
Upper looper
Lower looper
3-thread atlock stitch, wide
4-thread overlock stitch
Left 5 3 3 B No 0 --- 3.5 9
Left &
Right
6 3 4 A No 4 4 4 4
21
Three-thread overlock with one needle
By threading the LEFT needle only a width of 7mm will be produced and by threading the RIGHT needle only a width of 3.8mm
will be produced.
Converting to two-thread use
To convert to two thread use, rst open the front cover and working table and raise needle to its highest point by turning hand
wheel towards you. When 2-thread sewing, only one needle is used, so place a needle in either the right or left position, depending on the stitch you are planning to sew.
Place the unused needle back into the needle pack or into the accessory bag.
1. Pull out the converter as shown in Fig.1.
2. Attach the two-thread converter onto the upper looper as shown in Fig. 2, Fig.3.
3. When not using converter, insert it into its holder securly, as illustrated in Fig. 4.
Two-thread
overlock
converter
Upper
looper
1
2
1
Fig.2
Fig.3
2
1
2
22
Fig.1
Fig.4
1
2
Narrow and rolled hem, picot stitch
Narrow and rolled edges are ideal for use on ne fabrics such as organza, lightweight cotton, silk, etc.
Also, the picot stitch can be used for edge nishing on ne fabrics such as sheers, rayon, voile, and more.
Due to the nature of these hems, they are not suitable for heavier weight fabrics.
1. Raise the presser foot.
2. Open the front cover and working table.
3. Remove the stitch finger from the needle plate by screw driver and place it securely in the front cover, as illustrated, or in the accessory bag.
4. Set the machine according to page 19.
NOTE: After finishing, reset the stitch finger in its place. Please ensure inserting it deep as illustrated in Fig 1. After removing the stitch finger from the machine, insert it securely in its holder on machine inside cover, as illustrated in Fig. 1, or place it in the accessory bag.
Stitch nger
Cross section
Narrow hem Rolled hem Picot stitch
Fig.1
23
Adjusting thread tensions
Turning tension dial to a higher number gives a tighter thread tension. Turning ten­sion dial to a lower number gives a looser thread tension.
Test each thread tension on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use.
Two-thread use
Increase tension
Decrease tension
Just right
Lower looper thread
Top side
Four-thread use
Just right
Upper looper thread
Right needle thread
Left needle thread
Top side
Needle thread
Underside
Underside
Fig.1 Fig.3
Lower looper thread
Lower looper thread pulled to underside
Lower looper thread
Top side
Decrease needle thread tension Increase needle thread tension
Upper looper thread pulled to top side
Upper looper thread
Right needle thread
Left needle thread
Top side
Increase Upper looper thread tension and/or decrease lower looper tension
Needle thread
Underside
Fig.2
Fig.2Fig.1 Fig.3
Underside
Needle thread pulled to top side
Lower looper thread
Top side
Lower looper thread pulled to top side
Upper looper thread
Right needle thread
Left needle thread
Top side
Increase lower looper thread tension and/or decrease upper looper tension
Needle thread
Underside
Underside
Lower looper thread
Left needle thread loose and visible on under side of fabric.
Upper looper thread
Right needle thread
Left needle thread
Increase left needle thread tension and/or decrease either or both looper threads.
24
Top side Underside
Fig.4 Fig.5
Lower looper thread
Right needle thread loose and visible on under side of fabric.
Upper looper thread
Right needle thread
Left needle thread
Top side
Increase right needle thread tension.
Lower looper thread
Underside
Adjusting stitch length
Turn the stitch length dial until the required length is indicated.
The higher the number, the longer the stitch. This dial can adjust the stitch length from 1 to 5mm.
Stitch length dial Overedge cutting
Adjusting overedge cutting width
Overedge cutting width can be adjusted from 4 to 7mm by simply turning overedge cutting width dial according to the type of fabric.
It is set at standard width of 6mm when delivered from the
factory.
Turn it towards “5” if fabric edge puckers while sewing. ( Fig.1)
Turn it toward “7” if loops hang off the edge. (Fig.2)
width dial
Fig.2Fig.1 Fig.3 Fig.4
Stitch nger(B)
1
Cross section
2
Stitch nger (B)
Loops may hang off the edge, when you sew with lightweight fabric using 3 threads (right needle only), and setting cutting width dial at 4-5(Fig. 3). In such a case change the stitch nger(A) to (B) to get neat stitching(Fig. 4).
25
Differential feed
The differential feed has two independent feed teeth,
one front (A) and one rear (B).
Each row of feed teeth has an individual feed mecha­nism which enables the feeding of fabric at a different ratio.
Positive differential feed
When set for positive differential feed, the front
row of feed teeth (A) makes a longer stroke than the rear row of feed teeth (B).
B
A
Differential feed teeth
This has the effect of accumulating fabric under the presser foot to offset the wavering on the fab­ric, removing distortion.
Negative differential feed
When set for negative differential feed, the front
row of feed teeth (A) makes a shorter stroke than the rear row of feed teeth (B).
This has the effect of stretching fabric under the presser foot to offset the puckering on the fabric.
Positive differential feed
Negative differential feed
26
Setting differential feed
Set by simply turning the differential feed control dial in the direction desired referring to the chart below.
The adjustment can be made between 0.7 (negative effect) and 2 (positive effect). These settings give the best ratio of feeding.
For normal sewing, the dial should be set at 1.
The dial can be reset even while sewing.
EFFECT AND
APPLICATION
Waver-free
seams,
Gathering
No differential
feed
Pucker-free
seams
TYPE OF
FEEDING
Positive
differential
feed
Neutral feed 1
Negative
differential
feed
SETTING
1-2
0.7-1
FEED RATIO
REAR: FRONT
Presser foot pressure regulator
Presser foot pressure has been correctly set at the factory, so you do not need to adjust it for most of ordinary sewing. If adjustment is necessary, turn the presser foot pressure regulator to higher number to increase or to lower number to decrease pressure.
Differential feed control dial
Increase
Sewing with extra heavyweight fabric or multiple layers of fabric
A wide range of fabric can be overlocked on this machine, but it is recom­mended to tighten screw as illustrated, when sewing with extra heavyweight fabrics or multiple layers of fabric. Open working table for adjustment.
Loosen the screw when sewing with light to normal weight fabric or turning overedge cutting width dial, or otherwise fabric may not be well cut.
The machine is set for normal weight fabrics from the factory.
Tighten
Decrease
Loosen
Screw
27
Basic techniques
1. When you reach the fabric edge, stop stitching with the nee­dle above the fabric.
2. Raise the presser foot and gently pull on the thread chain just enough to clear the stitch finger.
3. Turn the fabric, lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new direction. Fig. 1.
NOTE: When overlocking and trimming at the same time, cut the fabric along the new stitching line for about 3cm, before turning the fabric. Fig. 2.
Turning curved edges
For inside curves, guide fabric gently with trimming line of
the fabric under the right front of the presser foot (or a little to the left), applying pressure at point A in the direction of
the arrow with your left hand, and at the same time applying
a little opposite pressure at point B with your right hand.
Fig.3.
Fig.1
Cut!
Fig.2
For outside curves place under the presser foot in a similar manner but applying the pressure in the opposite directions. Fig. 4.
Removing stitches from sewn fabric
To remove stitches already sewn, snip off needle thread (s) at
intervals and pull out looper threads.
A
A
B
Fig.3 Fig.4
B
28
1
2
3
Corded overlock
Corded overlock can be used to strengthen shoulder, sleeve or side seams especially when sewing stretch garments. As a deco­rative feature you can use knitting yarn of contrasting colors to
further enhance your garment. Your machine is equipped with a
presser foot which has been designed to feed your cord or yarn to the left of the safety stitch or to the right. Follow instructions as follows:
1. Place a “filler” cord, such as a crochet cotton, gimp, wool,
knitting yarn, or shirring elastic at the rear of the machine spool
pin. Pass the cord through the cord guides (1) and (2) and then through the left needle thread guide (3). See Fig. 1.
2. Insert the cord through either the front or rear hole (according
to the operation, see diagrams Figures 2 and 3), in the presser foot
and pass it under and to the rear of the foot.
3. Place the fabric to be sewn as normal.
Start at slow speed observing if cord is feeding correctly and in­crease speed as desired.
Fig.1
For joining shoulder or sleeves, pass the cord through the front hole, ensuring that it is fixed between the left and right needle
threads as it is guided through the front hole. (Fig.2).
For joining side seams, pass the cord through the rear hole, ensur-
ing it is positioned to the right needle thread. (Fig.3)
For decorative effects, you may pass contrasting colors either through the front or rear hole or if you desire, pass cord or yarn through each hole.
For making wawy hem with ller cord (Fig. 4), pass the ller cord
through the rear hole and start ROLLED HEM.
This is used for the hem of skirt, etc.
Fig.2
Fig.3
Fig.4
29
Decorative effects
In addition to normal overlocking which is fully described in this instruction book, your machine can also be used for a
number of decorative applications such as atlocking, butted seams, pintucking or making lengths of decorative braid. See
below.
Decorative atlocking using two threads or using three threads (at seam)
Fold fabric along the line to be atlock and sew over the folded
edge, making sure not to cut into the fold. Fig. A.
Fig.A
Unfold the fabric, pull the ends of the threads to the underside
and press at.
The final appearance can be enhanced by using buttonhole twist or embroidery thread on the lower looper.
Butted seams using two threads or using three threads (at seam)
Place two pieces of fabric wrong sides together and overlock along the edge. Unfold and press.
By using different colored fabrics and thread a pleasing 'patch­work' effect can be achieved.
Pintucking using three threads
Fold fabric along a line to be pintucked and overlock sew along the folded edge, making sure not to cut into the folded edge of
the fabric. (See page 25). Pull ends of threads to underside and
press.
Fig.B
Making decorative braid using three threads
Overlock over a cord braid, holding it carefully with both
hands, making sure not to cut the edge. (See page 25).
NOTE: Reduce the tension when using thicker, decorative threads.
30
Differential feed applications
Please refer to pages 26-27, Differential feed.
Differential feed is designed to minimize puckering and wa­vering. It is also very effective for gathering.
1. Puckering
Puckering tends to occur on woven or sheer fabrics.
To obtain pucker-free seams, set the differential feed control dial at less than 1.
2. Wavering
Wavering tends to occur on knitted or stretchable fabrics.
To obtain waver-free seams, set the differential feed control dial at more than 1.
3. Gathering
Differential feed makes gathering easier on lightweight fabric.
Use it on waistlines, sleeve heads, sleeve bottoms and rufes,
etc.
Set the differential feed control dial between 1.5 and 2 to ob­tain the best gathering effect for your use.
Pucker or waver-free seams
Puckering
It can also be helpful to increase tension on the needle
thread(s) and lengthen the stitch length setting.
Important
The exact adjustment depends on the thickness and elasticity of fabric. Even the stitch length can influence the setting. The longer the stitches, the more the fabric is contracted.
Always do a test run with a piece of actual fabrics you use
and nd the best settings.
Wavering
Gathering
31
3. CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replacing the moving cutter
Replace the moving cutter as follows, if it becomes blunt. A spare cutter will be found in your accessories.
NOTE: You should not need to replace xed cutter, which is made of special hard alloy material.
FIRST REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE SUPPLY SOCKET-OUTLET.
1. Loosen screw and take out moving cutter.
2. Close the working table. Lower cutter driving arm to its low­est position by turning the hand wheel towards you by hand. In this position, set replacement cutter in position
and secure it with screw, ENSURING THAT THE EDGE OF THE MOVING CUTTER IS APPROXI­MATELY 0.5MM BELOW THE SURFACE OF THE FIXED CUTTER.
Screw Moving
cutter
Disengaging moving cutter
If you want to sew without cutting, open the working table and disengage the moving cutter by pushing the cutter re­lease knob to the left and turning it towards you as illustrat­ed. Ensure that fabric edge is not wider than overedge width selected or upper looper and needle can be damaged.
0.5mm
Cutter release knob
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Cleaning and oiling
To keep the machine running smoothly, keep it clean and lubricated at all times.
FIRST DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER SUPPLY BY REMOVING PLUG FROM SOCKET-OUTLET.
1. Open the front cover and working table. Using the brush provided, remove dust and lint that have accumulated.
2. Apply a few drops of oil to the points indicated by arrows.
ALWAYS USE A GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL.
Brush
Oil
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4. CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Irregular stitches
Breaking needle
Puckering
1. Incorrect thread tension(s).
2. Incorrect size needle.
3. Improper threading.
4. Pulling fabric.
5. Loose presser foot.
1. Pulling fabric.
2. Incorrect size needle.
3. Incorrect setting of needle.
4. Loose presser foot.
1. Incorrect thread tension(s).
2. Bent or blunt needle.
3. Differential feed is set incorrectly.
1. Reset thread tension(s).
2. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
3. Re-thread machine.
4. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
5. Reset presser foot.
1. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
2. Choose correct size needle for
thread and fabric.
3. Reset needle.
4. Reset presser foot.
1. Reset thread tension(s).
2. Insert new needle.
3. Set it at less than 1.
Wavering Differential feed is set incorrectly. Set it at 1 or at more than 1.
1. Improper threading.
2. Incorrect size needle.
Skipping Stitches
3. Bent or blunt needle.
4. Incorrect setting of needle
1. Improper threading.
2. Bent needle.
3. Thread tension(s) too tight.
Breaking Threads
4. Incorrect setting of needle.
5. Thread spool tangled.
6. Thread guide pole not extended.
1. Reset thread machine.
2. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
3. Insert new needle.
4. Reset needle.
1. Re-thread machine.
2. Insert new needle.
3. Reset thread tension(s).
4. Reset needle.
5. Reset spool properly.
6. Fully extend guide pole.
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