The Owner's Manual describes the installation and
operation of the Jøtul F 602 USA non-catalytic wood
heater. This heater meets the U.S. Environmental
Protection Agency's emission limits for wood heaters sold
after July 1, 1990. Under specific test conditions, this heater
has shown heat output at rates ranging from 9,600 to
42,000 BTU's per hour.
When installing, operating, and maintaining your Jøtul F
602 USA, follow the guidelines given in these instructions.
Save these instructions, and make them available to
anyone using the stove.
A number of areas of the U.S. and Canada require a building
permit to install a solid-fuel burning appliance. NFPA 211
(National Fire Protection Association, Standard for
Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents, and Solid Fuel Burning
Appliances) or CAN/CSA B-365 (Installation Code for SolidFuel Burning Appliances and Equipment) may apply to the
installation of solid fuel burning appliances in your area.
Your Jøtul dealer has knowledge of your local codes and
can provide assistance in making sure your installation is
safe and legal. Also contact your insurance representative,
building inspector, or fire officials to determine what
regulations apply in your area.
The Jøtul F 602 USA has been tested and listed to
ANSI-UL 1482, and ULC S627 by Intertek Testing ServicesWarnock Hersey of Middelton, Wisconsin.
Possible Hazards to Avoid When
Using the Jøtul F 602 USA
Any use of fire in a house represents a certain danger.
With intense overfiring, temperatures on the surface of
the Jøtul F 602 USA can exceed 1 000 0F (536 0C).
Comply with the following guidelines:
• Never overfire the stove. If any part of the stove or
chimney glows, you are overfiring, and a house fire or
serious damage to the stove or chimney could result.
Immediately close down the air control if you notice
this condition.
• Teach children that the stove is hot and must not be
touched.
• Never use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel,
• Never use kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid or similar
liquids to start or "freshen up" a fire in this heater.
They can ignite with explosive force, causing bodily
injury or death. Keep all such liquids far away from the
heater while it is in use.
• Never use the stove if there are combustible gases in
the house. The fumes from certain cleaning fluids,
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adhesives, and paints are a few examples of
combustible gases. Remember, the operating
woodstove is a source of "open flame".
• Avoid creating a "low pressure" condition in the room
where the stove is operating, such as by operating an
exhaust fan or a clothes dryer. A low-pressure
condition could cause poisonous gases to be drawn
out of the stove into the room. Some fuel will during
combustion separate carbon monoxide and generate
it in the burnchamber. Carbon monoxide is toxic, so
please follow the guidelines in this manual to avoid
smoke "roll out" from the burnchamber. You can
prevent a low-pressure condition by providing
adequate outside combustion air within 24" of the
stove.
• Never operate the Jøtul F 602 USA if it has cracked or
broken glass. Replace damaged glass only with the
proper glass panel available from your Jøtul dealer.
• Never burn trash of any kind in the stove.
• Keep combustible materials far away from the stove.
• Never modify the stove in any way.
• Do not dry clothes over the stove, since they could fall
and ignite.
• Use only seasoned wood in your stove. Never use
fireplace coal or synthetic logs that have not been
approved for the stove.
• Always wear protective gloves when adding fuel to
the fire.
• If you for some reason experience smoke "roll out"
from the fireplace, it might activate smoke detectors
(if installed).
• Do not connect this heater to any air distribution duct.
Note! This stove is not approved for use in mobile homes.
Top Exit or Rear Exit
The Jøtul F 602 USA has two flue outlet positions. If you
wish to top-exit the stove, place the cover plate in the
rear position and secure it with the screws and nuts, then
secure the flue collar to the top with the two remaining
screws.
To rear -exit the stove, secure the cover plate in the top
position with the two screws, then secure the flue collar
to the rear with the two remaining screws and two nuts.
When fastening the plate or flue collar to the rear, it may
be necessary to reach in through the top opening and
hold the nuts with a wrench.
Attaching the Legs
The Jøtul F 602 USA has four tapped leg bolt holes in the
bottom plate. Fasten each leg to the bottom with a bolt
and with a washer between the bolt head and the leg.
Plan Ahead
A safe stove installation involves several elements,
including: (A) the chimney connector, (B) the chimney itself,(C) the connection between the chimney connector and
chimney, and (D) protection of combustible materials in
the vicinity of the stove. Each of these elements is equally
important for a safe stove installation.
Installation
Safety Notice
If this solid fuel room heater is not properly installed a
house fire may result. For your safety, follow the
installation directions. Contact local building or fire officials
about restrictions and installation inspection requirements
in your area.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use
your new stove. Failure to follow instructions may result
in property damage, bodily injury, or even death.
We recommend that you have your Jøtul F 602 USA
installed by a professional installer of solid fuel room
heaters.
A. Chimney Connector (Stove Pipe)
Chimney connector is also sometimes called stove pipe
or flue pipe, and it is used to connect the stove to the
chimney. The chimney connector should be 6" diameter
black steel, with a minimum thickness of 24 gauge.
Do not use aluminium or galvanized steel pipe as a chimney
connector. These materials cannot withstand the extreme
temperatures of a wood fire and can give off toxic fumes
when heated.
Matching enamel pipe is available for your Jøtul F 602
USA. Contact your Authorised Jøtul dealer for more
information.
Do not use chimney connector pipe as a chimney.
The factory-supplied adapter must be used for fitting the
stove's flue collar to the chimney connector.
Chimney connector sections must be attached to the
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stove's flue collar adapter and to each other with the
crimped end toward the stove (fig. 2, page 20).
The space between the flue collar adapter and the
chimney connector should be sealed with stove cement
or an appropriately size piece of gasket. This allows any
small amounts of condensed creosote to run into the
stove rather then onto the outside of the pipe or the stove
top. All joints, including the adapter to the flue collar, should
be secured with three sheet metal screws to ensure that
the sections will not separate.
For proper operation the chimney connector should be as
short as possible. Horizontal lengths should have an
upward slope from the stove of 1/4" per foot. Avoid using
more than two 90 degree elbows or total runs of pipe
greater than 1 0'.
No part of the chimney connector may pass through an
attic or roof space, closet or other concealed space, or
through a floor or ceiling. Whenever possible, avoid
passing the chimney connector through a combustible
wall.
Wall Pass-Through
When your installation unavoidably requires that the
chimney connector pass through a combustible wall to
reach the chimney, extreme care must be taken. In the
U.S., the National Fire Protection Association's publication
NFPA 21 1, Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents, and
Solid Fuel Burning Appliances, permits four methods for
passing through a combustible wall. In Canada, refer to
CAN/CGA B356. Before beginning the installation, contact
local building officials to make sure the proposed passthrough method meets local building code requirements.
An approved installation that uses a section of listed solid
fuel insulated factory-built chimney as a pass- through
for the chimney connector, must have an inside diameter
which is 2" larger than the chimney connector- a minimum
length of 12" -and at least 1" of insulation thickness. The
chimney section is installed with at least 2" of air space
between the outer chimney wall and adjacent combustible
materials.
Sheet steel support plates are used on both ends of the
chimney section to keep the connector centred. The
opening around the chimney section is closed on both
sides of the wall with sheet steel plates and the chimney
section is securely fastened to the plates. Fasteners used
to support the chimney section should never penetrate
the inner flue liner.
See NFPA-211 for other approved wall passthrough
methods.
B. Chimneys
There are two types of chimneys suitable for the
Jøtul F 602 USA. An approved masonry chimney, or a listed
residential-type building heating appliance chimney.
When selecting a chimney type and the location for the
chimney in the house, keep this in mind: it is the chimney
that makes the stove work, not the stove that makes the
chimney work. This is because a chimney actually creates
suction, called draft, which pulls air through the stove.
Several factors affect draft: the height, cross-sectional
area, and temperature of the chimney, as well as the
proximity of surrounding trees or buildings.
A commonly used method to pass through a wall directly
to a masonry chimney requires removal of all combustible
material from at least 12" around the entire chimney
connector. The space is then filled with at least 12" of
brick around a fireclay liner. Be sure to locate it so that
the top of the chimney connector will be at least 18" below
the ceiling.
To construct the brick pass-through, you will need an
opening of 30" x 30" minimum. It will be necessary to cut
wall studs, install headers, and construct a sill frame to
maintain proper dimensions and to hold the weight of
the brick. Minimum 3-1/2" (4" nominal) thick solid bricks
are to be used.
The fireclay liner (ASTM C35 or equivalent), minimum 5/8"
wall thickness, must not penetrate into the chimney
beyond the inner surface of the chimney flue liner and
must be firmly cemented in place. If it is necessary to cut
a hole in the chimney liner, use extreme care to keep it
from shattering. Refractory mortar must be used at the
junction to the chimney liner. (See figure 3, page 21)
4
In general, a short masonry chimney on the exterior of
the house will give the poorest performance. This is
because it can be very difficult to warm up, and in
extremely cold northern areas it may not work at all.
A tall masonry chimney inside the house is easier to keep
warm and will work best.
This guideline gives the necessary chimney requirements
based on the U.S. national code (NFPA-211). However, many
local codes differ from the national code to take into
account climate, altitude, or other factors. It is important
that you check with your local building officials to find out
what codes apply in your area before constructing a
chimney.
USA
Masonry Chimneys
The minimum requirements for a properly constructed
chimney include the following:
• The foundation must be large enough to support the
intended chimney without settling.
• The masonry wall of the chimney, if brick or modular
block, must be a minimum of 4" nominal thickness. A
mountain- or rubble-stone wall must be at least 12"
thick.
• The chimney must have a fireclay flue liner (or
equivalent with a minimum thickness of 5/8" and must
be installed with refractory mortar. There must be at1/
2" air space between the flue liner and chimney wall.
• The preferred fireclay flue liner size has a nominal
size of 8" x 8", and should not be larger than 8" x12". lf
round fireclay liners are used, the inside diameter
should be 6" and not larger than 8". lf an existing
chimney with larger tiles is used it should be relined
with an appropriate liner.
• No other appliance can be vented into the same flue.
• An airtight cleanout door should be located at the base
of the chimney.
A chimney inside the house must have at least 2" of
clearance to the combustible structure. A chimney outside
the house must have at least 1" clearance to the
combustible structure. Fire stops must be installed at the
spaces where the chimney passes through floors and/or
ceilings. Remember that there must be air space around
the chimney, and that insulation must be 2" or more from
the chimney.
A chimney, wether masonry or prefabricated metal, must
be the required height above the roof or other obstruction
for safety and for proper draft operation. The requirement
is that the chimney must at least 3' higher than the highest
point where it passes through the roof and at least 2'
higher than the be at least and highest part of the roof or
structure that is within 10' of the chimney, measured
horizontally (fig. 4, page 21).
Chimneys shorter than 14' may not provide adequate draft.
This could result in smoke spilling the room from the door
or joints in the stove or pipe. In addition, inadequate draft
can cause puffing. A too-strong draft, on the other hand,
cause excessive temperatures and can shorten burn
times. Excessive drafts can be corrected by having your
dealer install a barometric damper at 0.1 " of water
column. lf you suspect you have draft problem, consult
your dealer.
Listed Metal Prefabricated Chimneys
The heater must be connected to a listed Type HT per
UL 103 or ULC S629 prefabricated chimney. When a metal
prefabricated chimney is used, the manufacturer's
installation instructions must be followed precisely. You
must also purchase (from the same manufacturer) and
install the ceiling support package or wall pass through,
the "T" section package, the firestops (when needed), the
insulation shield, the roof flashing, the chimney cap, etc.
Maintain the proper clearance to the structure as
recommended by the manufacturer. This clearance is
usually a minimum of 2", although it may vary by
manufacturer or for certain components.
There are basically two methods of metal chimney
installation. One method is to install the chimney inside
the residence through the ceiling and the roof (fig. 5,page 22).
The other method is to install an exterior chimney that
runs up the outside of the residence.
C. Connection to the Chimney
Masonry Chimneys
When connecting to a masonry chimney, the chimney
connector must slide completely inside the chimney
thimble (or breach) to the inner surface of flue liner, make
sure the connector does not protrude past the inside of
the flue liner as that will reduce the flow area available
for the smoke and ultimately cause problems with your
chimney system. The chimney connector should be sealed
into the thimble with refractory cement and the connector
should also be mechanically fastened to the chimney.
See fig. 6, page 22.
Prefabricated Chimneys
Always follow the chimney manufacturer's instructions
and use all the components required by the manufacturer.
Do not take shortcuts or use make shift methods for
securing the chimney connector to the chimney.
Note: The clearances expressed in inches are those
approved for installations in the United States. The
clearances in parentheses that are expressed in
centimeters are those approved for installations in Canada.
Different test standards for the respective countries may
result in differences in the clearance requirements.
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Clearances to
Combustibles
Floor Protection
A bottom heat shield is required in all installations. In
addition, your stove must be placed on a noncombustible
surface that extends 8" beyond the sides and back of the
stove and 16" in the front of the stove. This will result in
an overall base that is 28 1/2" wide x 45- 1/2" deep . This
is the minimum floor protector size. Floor protection
must also be used under the stove pipe and must
extend 2" beyond either side of the pipe (fig. 7, page
22).
The floor protection must have a minimum R value of
D. 45.
Warning! Never put any type of floor protection on top of
carpeting.
Alternate Floor Protection
All floor protection materials must be non-combustible
(i.e., metals, brick, stone, mineral fiber boards, etc.). Any
organic materials (i.e., plastics, wood, paper products, etc.)
are combustible and must not be used. The floor protector
specified may include some form of thermal designation
such as R-value (thermal resistance), k-factor (thermal
conductivity), or C-factor (thermal conductance).
The easiest means of determining if a proposed alternate
floor material meets requirements listed in the appliance
manual is to follow the procedure: See page 26.
hearth in it that you plan to use, it is extremely
important that the entire system be examined for
safety. Many older homes may have faulty chimneys,
or previous owners may have covered combustible
walls or studs with brick veneers. Heat is conducted
readily through brick and could ignite unseen
combustibles behind it.
Contact local building or fire official about restrictions and
installation requirements in your area.
Using a Rear Heat Shield to Reduce
Clearance in Alcove lnstallations
The Jøtul F 602 USA optional rear heat shield, PN HS50,may
be used only in top-exiting parallel installations to reduce
clearance as shown in figures 11,12,13, page 23.
Using Wall Protectors to Reduce
Clearances
The wall protector must be non-combustible, such as a
minimum 24 gauge galvanized steel or its equivalent. The
wall protector must be elevated 1" from the floor to
provide an air space of at least 1" between the shield and
the combustible wall. See figures 16, 17, and 18 on pages 23
and 24 for approved sizing specifications.
Alcove installation
When installed with a listed double wall pipe and with
wall protection, the Jøtul F 602 USA can be placed in an
alcove that has a minimum height of 96”1 and a maximum
depth of 48", and a minimum width of 41". The clearances
for this installation are shown in figure 14-15, page 23.
Clearance to Adjacent Combustible
Materials
The diagrams in figures 8-9-10 - page 22, give the required
clearances you must maintain from unprotected
combustible materials or objects.
A combustible is anything that can burn, and in the case
of stove installations, these combustibles may not be
visible. lf you are not sure of the combustible nature of
any material in the vicinity of your planned stove
installation, you should check with your local fire off icials.
Remember that "fire resistant" materials are considered
combustible; they are difficult to ignite, but they will burn.
lf you have recently purchased a home that has a stove
6
When installed with a listed double wall pipe and with a
stove heat shield, the Jøtul F 602 USA can be placed in an
alcove that has a minimum height of 96”1 and a maximum
depth of 24”2, and a minimum width of 55". The clearances
for this installation are shown in fig. 12-13, page 23.
In an alcove, the height of the wall protector, including the
air space at the bottom, must be at least 41" (104 cm) (seefig. 15, page 23). Both side walls and the rear wall must be
protected by the wall protector (fig. 14, page 22).
(1See NFPA 211 for ceiling clearance reductions with
protection.)
Jøtul F 602 Woodstove Clearances
Stove clearancesUnprotected surfacesProtected surfaces (NFPA 211)
Top vent/vertical
SideRearCornerSideRearCorner
Single wall pipe21"13.5"13"13"11"9"
W/out rear heatshield535mm345mm330mm330mm280mm230mm
Single wall pipe21"11"11"13"11"9"
With rear heatshield535mm280mm280mm330mm280mm230mm
Shielded single wall pipe21"9"9"13"8"8"
With rear heatshield535mm230mm230mm330mm205mm205mm
Double wall pipe24"9"9"13"8"8"
With rear heatshield610mm230mm230mm300mm205mm205mm
Top vent/vertical - assumes the connector pipe is exiting off the top of the stove and traveling vertically. If top vented
to any horizontal runs - the stove’s position is dictated by the connector pipe clearances.
Rear vent/horizontal - assumes the connector pipe exits from the rear of the stove and runs horizontally to the
chimney. If rear vented to vertical run - the stove position is dictated by the connector pipe clearances.
Minimum alcove dimensions:
Unprotected surfaceProtected surface (NFPA 211)
Vertical venting.Vertical venting
Assumes top exit:Assumes top exit:
Minimum alcove width55” (1400mm)41” (1040 mm)
Maximum alcove depth48” (1220mm)48” (1220 mm)
Height above the top of the stove71” (1805mm)71” (1805 mm)
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Operation
Before building a fire in your new stove, please read
the following section carefully.
The stove is designed to burn natural wood only. Higher
efficiencies and lower emissions generally result when
burning air-dried seasoned hardwoods, as compared to
softwoods or to green or freshly-cut hardwoods.
Do not burn:
• Coal
• Garbage
• Cardboard
• Treated or painted Wood Solvents
• Treated or painted Wood
• Chemical Chimney Cleaners
• Colored Paper
• Any syntethic fuel or logs that have not been approved
for wood stoves.
Burning treated wood, garbage, solvents, colored paper,
chemical chimney cleaners, or trash may result in release of
toxic fumes.
will depend on how you operate your stove, but it is
important to inspect the flue after every two weeks of
use. An accumulation of 1/4" or more on the sides of the
flue or connector is considered hazardous and should be
removed.
In the event that creosote in your chimney or flue
connector ignites, the resulting fire is often accompanied
by a roaring noise and a crackling sound as flakes of burned
creosote break loose. lf you suspect you are having a
chimney fire, immediately close the draft regulator and
make sure the stove door is closed. Call the fire
department and get everyone safely out of the house.
Trying to extinguish the fire in the stove will not help. In
fact it can make the matter worse by allowing oxygen
through the door, which then supports the fire in the
chimney. When the roaring and crackling has stopped, you
should resist the temptation to open the door and look at
the fire. The fire may have suffocated, but could rekindle
when you open the door. After a chimney fire, do not use
your stove until the chimney and the flue connector has
been cleaned and inspected to ensure that no damage
has been sustained.
Never use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene,
charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or "freshen
up" a fire in this heater. Keep all such liquids far away
from the heater while it is in use.
Wood Storage
When storing wood outside, it should be covered and
stored off the ground to protect it from the elements.
Make certain that the woodpile has good air circulation
through it in order to promote drying to aid in the seasoning
process.
To obtain the best performance from your stove, we
recommend using seasoned hardwood that has been dried
and stored under cover for at least one year. Burning
unseasoned or wet wood causes the rapid development
of creosote and reduces the heat value of the wood.
Creosote and Soot Formation and
the Need for Removal
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other
organic vapors which combine with expelled moisture to
form creosote. These creosote vapors condense in the
relatively cool chimney flue of a slow burning fire. The
creosote that accumulates in the flue is highly flammable
and is the fuel of chimney fires. To prevent a chimney fire,
the creosote needs to be removed by sweeping the
chimney and flue connector. The frequency of sweeping
Breaking in Your Stove
A cast iron stove should be "broken in" gradually. Five
consecutive small fires must be built in the stove prior to
operating the stove continuously. Each fire should be a
little larger than the previous one, and the last fire should
be a full-sized load. Allow the stove to cool completely
between fires.
It is normal for new painted stoves to emit a smell or
even some smoke during the first few fires. This is caused
by the seasoning of the high temperature paint, and the
odor will diminish with each fire and eventually disappear.
Opening a window or door near the stove will help provide
additional ventilation and reduce the odor.
Controls
Front Door Latch
The latch for the front door is conveniently located to the
left of the door's center. To open the door, simply raise
the latch and pull the door toward you. To shut the door,
raise the latch, push the door tightly against the stove
front, and lower the latch. See fig. 19 A, page 24.
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Air Control
The sliding air control (See fig. 19 B, page 24) is located
in the bottom center of the front door.
Sliding the control to the right opens the air control and
increases the heat output; sliding it to the left closes the
control and decreases the heat output.
Slide the control fully to the right when first starting or
reviving a fire, or when maximum heat is required. Position
the control in the middle or left of the middle when less
heat is needed and when longer burn times are desired.
You will determine the best settings for your particular
needs as you gain experience with your stove.
Hot while in operation. Keep children, clothing and
furniture away. Do not store fuel within the clearances
listed previously.
Building a Fire
A good fire will efficiently utilize your fuel, keep the glass
in the door clean, keep emissions and creosote to an
absolute minimum, require less work, and be very
predictable.
A Good Foundation
Reloading
Reload the stove while it is still hot and there are plenty
of hot to ignite the fresh fuel load. It is a good idea to
include a smaller piece or two of wood at the base of the
new load to help the stove recover more quickly to its
operating temperature.
Reloading Procedure
• Always wear gloves when tending your stove.
• Push the air control to the right to the full open
position.
• Wait a few seconds and open the door.
• Use a stove shovel or similar tool to break up any
remaining charcoal and to drag some live embers
toward the front where combustion air enters.
• Load the fuel (Smaller pieces first).
• Close the door.
• Wait 5-10 minutes and adjust the air control to desired
setting.
Note: lf the charcoal bed present at reloading time is
relatively deep (2"-3") and your wood is well seasoned, it
is possible to add the fresh fuel load, close the door and
reset the air control for the desired heat output rate
within 5 minutes.
• Make sure the air control handle is fully to the right.
Open the front door and cover the bottom of the stove
with tightly crupled newspaper. Criss-cross a generous
double handful of dry kindling, such as split pieces of
scrap lumber, on top of the paper. lf you don't have
scrap lumber, split some of your best dry wood down
to finger-sized pieces and use that. Place three or
four 1 " -2" split pieces of dry wood on top of the kindling.
• Light the paper evenly across the front and close the
door.
• Continue to add 1" - 2" pieces of split dry wood until a
healthy bed of glowing coals has formed.
• You can now add three or four small-to-medium pieces
of wood. Allow this wood to burn for several minutes.
Once you are sure the wood is burning well, adjust the
air control to your desired heat output level. Moving it
to the right increases the heat; moving it to the left
decreases the heat. Avoid operating the stove with
the air control closed completely.
• In order for secondary combustion to occur, the fire
must be well established with temperatures above
1.0000F (6000C) in the firebox.
• lf the fire dies out, this cause is most likely either an
insufficient bed of coals, reducing the air supply too
soon, or using wood that is either too large or not dry
enough.
Ash Removal
Ash removal will be required every day or two during
normal operation, and is most easily done when the fire
has burned down to coals.
Use a shovel to push or rake any hot coals first to one
side. Shovel out the exposed ash, and push or rake the hot
coal to the other side. Remove the ash from the second
side as well, and then spread the hot coals evenly across
the firebox. Wood may now be added to start a new fire.
When removing ash from a stove that is in operation,
close and latch the door before taking the ashes outside
for safe disposal. It is always a good idea to wear heavy
protective gloves while removing and disposing of the
ashes from your stove.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container used
exclusively for ashes, with a tight fitting lid. The closed
container of ashes should be placed outdoors, well away
from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. lf
ashes are disposed of by burisl in soil or otherwise
dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container
until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Overfiring will result if the stove is operated with the
door open. This could cause damage to the stove, void the
warranty or lead to a house fire.
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