Brother 885-S61 User Manual

GETTING READY

Read before use.

Read when additional
information is required.

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

Sewing Machine

Product Code: 885-S61

Operation Manual

Enclosed Accessories

Note

After opening the box, check that the following accessories are enclosed. If any item is missing or damaged,
contact your retailer.

Accessories

The following items should also be enclosed in the box.

(For U.S.A. only)

● Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this
machine model SB3129.

● The screw of the presser foot holder is
available through your authorized dealer.
(Part code: XA4813-051)

● The organized accessory tray is
available,through your authorized dealer.
(Part code: XC4489-051)

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

10. 11. 12.* 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.

19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25.

26.

No. Part Name

1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-023
2 Overcasting foot “G” XE6305-101

Monogramming foot

3

“N”

4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021

Zigzag foot “J” (on

5

machine)
6 Blind stitch foot “R” XE2650-001
7 Button fitting foot “M” XE2643-001

8 Walking foot SA140

9 Quilting foot SA129

10 Seam ripper XZ5082-001

Bobbin (4)

11

(one is on machine)

12 Needle set X58358-021
13 Twin needle X59296-121

27.

Part Code

Americas Others

XD0810-031

XC3021-031

F033N

(XC2214-052)

F005N

(XC1948-052)

SA156

SFB

(XA5539-151)

* 75/11 2 needles

90/14 2 needles
90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)

No. Part Name

14 Cleaning brush X59476-021
15 Eyelet punch XZ5051-001
16 Screwdriver (large) XC8349-021
17 Screwdriver (small) X55468-021
18 Spool cap (large) 130012-024

Spool cap (medium)(2)

19

(one is on machine)
20 Spool cap (small) 130013-124
21 Extra spool pin XC4654-151
22 Spool net XA5523-020

23 Foot controller

24 Grid sheet set XC4549-020
25 Operation manual XF4637-001
26 Quick reference guide XC4546-151, XC4589-051
27 Hard case XC2360-252

Part Code

Americas Others

XE1372-001

XD0496-221(EU area)

XC6651-321(other areas)

Cover A

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions

5

3

4

6

2

1

7

9

8

B

C

A

0

The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the
sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.

Front view

1 Thread guide plate / 2 Thread guide cover

Pass the thread around the thread guide plate when
threading the upper thread.

3 Spool pin

Place the spool on the spool pin.

4 Thread guide for bobbin winding

Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding
the bobbin thread.

5 Upper cover

Open the upper cover to place the spool of thread on
the spool pin.

6 Bobbin winder

Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.

7 Operation panel

Select a stitch from those that appear in the operation
panel. (page Cover E)

8 Sewing speed controller

Use the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.

9 Operation buttons

Use the operation buttons to start the sewing machine
and automatically cut the thread. (page Cover D)

0 Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment

Store presser feet and bobbins in the accessory
compartment of the flat bed attachment. When sewing
cylindrical pieces, remove the flat bed attachment.

A Thread cutter

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

B Needle threader lever

Use the needle threader to thread the needle.

C Thread tension dial

Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the
upper thread.

Cover B

—

——————————————————————————————————————Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions

Memo

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

2

3

5

6

4

7

8

1

Needle and presser foot
section

1 Buttonhole lever

Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes
and bar tacks.

2 Thread guide discs

Pass the thread through the thread guide discs when
using the needle threader to thread the needle.

3 Needle bar thread hook

Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread
hook.

4 Needle plate

The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing
straight seams.

5 Bobbin cover/shuttle

Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin
into the shuttle.

6 Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.

7 Presser foot

The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitching.

8 Presser foot holder

The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.

Right-side/rear view

1 Presser foot dial

Use the presser foot dial to adjust the amount of
pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric.

2 Handle

Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.

3 Balance wheel

Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise and lower
the needle to sew one stitch.

4 Air vent

The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to be
exchanged. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing
machine is being used.

5 Main power switch

Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine
on and off.

6 Foot controller jack

Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable
into the foot controller jack.

7 Power supply jack

Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power
supply jack.

8 Feed dog position switch

Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.

● Refer to Cover B, D or E pages while you
are learning to use your machine.

Cover C

Operation buttons

Note

2

3

1

5

6

4

CAUTION

The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.

1 Start/stop button

Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of
sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
refer to “Starting to sew” (page 49).
The button lights up in green, red or orange, depending
on how the sewing machine is being operated.

Green: When the machine is ready to start

sewing or while it is sewing

Red: When the machine is not ready to start

sewing

Orange: When the bobbin winder shaft is moved

to the right for winding the bobbin
thread onto the bobbin

2 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to
sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches
are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 51).

● Do not press the thread cutter button after
the threads have already been cut, otherwise
the needle may break, the threads may
become tangled or damage to the machine
may occur.

● Do not press the thread cutter button if there
is no fabric under the presser foot or while
the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to
the machine may occur.

● When cutting thread thicker than #30,
nylon thread or other special threads, use
the thread cutter on the side of the machine.
For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 53).

3 Needle position button

Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.

4 Thread cutter button

Press the thread cutter button after stopping sewing to
cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details,
refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 53).

5 Sewing speed controller

Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.

6 Presser foot lever

Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
the presser foot.

Cover D

Operation panel

1

2

3

4
5

6

7

8
9

0

The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of the LCD (liquid crystal
display) and keys for specifying various sewing settings.

1 LCD (liquid crystal display)

Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for
incorrect operations appear in the LCD. Use keys 2
through 9, described below, to display various items
and select the settings. For details, refer to
“Understanding the LCD Screens” (page 12).

2 Sewing machine help key

Press this key to display operation information. Simple
descriptions on threading the upper thread, installing
the bobbin, winding the bobbin and replacing the
presser foot can be displayed.

3 Stitch selection key

Press this key to select the desired type of stitch.

4 + key

Press this key to add a pattern when sewing
combinations of characters or decorative stitches.

5 C key

Press this key to remove an added pattern when sewing
combinations of characters or decorative stitches.

6 Arrow keys

Use these keys to move in the indicated direction when

selecting an item displayed on the screen. In addition,

can be pressed to select a lower setting and

can be pressed to select a higher setting.

7 OK key

Press this key to apply the selected item.

8 Back key

Press this key to return to the previous screen.

9 Settings key

Press this key to select sewing settings, such as for
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching, or other
settings such as the operation beep.

0 Stitch keys

Use these keys to quickly select one of 12 of the most
often used stitches. For details, refer to “Selecting
stitching” (page 68).

Cover E

Memo

—

—————————————————————————————————————————————————Enclosed Accessories

Optional Accessories

The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

6. 7.

No. Part Name

1 Side cutter SA177

2 Quilting guide SA132

3 Wide table SA537

4 Stitch guide foot “P” SA160

Americas Others

Part Code

(XC3879-152)

F016N

(XC2215-052)

(XC4541-021)

F035N

(XC1969-

F054

WT2

052

No. Part Name

Adjustable zipper/

5

piping foot

6 Non stick foot SA114

7 Open toe foot SA186

)

Part Code

Americas Others

SA161

● To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your sales representative or the nearest authorized
service center.

F036N

(XC1970-052)

F007N

(XC1949-052)

F060

(XE1094-101)

1

Introduction

1

4

2

3

5

Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine.
Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the “IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS” (page 6), and
then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions.
In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future
reference.

Sewing Machine Features

1 Easy upper threading

Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine, the upper thread can easily be threaded. In addition,
the needle can be threaded with a simple operation. (page 24)

2 Automatic thread-cutting

The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the thread at the end of the stitching. (page 59)

3 One-touch lower threading

You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. (page 22)

4 Simple bobbin-winding

The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread. (page 18)

5 Built-in stitches

You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches, character stitches and decorative stitches.
Twelve of the most often used utility stitches can quickly be selected with the stitch keys. (page 68)

2

Contents

Enclosed Accessories ................................................................................................ Cover A

Accessories .............................................................................................................................................Cover A

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions .......................................................... Cover B

Front view ...............................................................................................................................................Cover B

Needle and presser foot section ..............................................................................................................Cover C

Right-side/rear view ................................................................................................................................Cover C

Operation buttons .................................................................................................................................. Cover D

Operation panel ......................................................................................................................................Cover E

Optional Accessories ...........................................................................................................1

Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 2

Sewing Machine Features .................................................................................................... 2

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ...............................................................................6

GETTING READY ..............................................................................................9

Turning the Machine On/Off ............................................................................................. 10

Power supply precautions ...............................................................................................................................10

Turning on the machine .................................................................................................................................. 11

Turning off the machine .................................................................................................................................. 11

Understanding the LCD Screens ........................................................................................ 12

Checking machine operating procedures ........................................................................................................ 13

Changing the Machine Settings ......................................................................................... 14

Changing the settings ......................................................................................................................................14

Changing the needle stop position ..................................................................................................................16

Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ................................................................................................................16

Changing the screen language .........................................................................................................................17

Winding/Installing the Bobbin ........................................................................................... 18

Bobbin precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 18

Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 18

Installing the bobbin ....................................................................................................................................... 22

Upper Threading ............................................................................................................... 24

Threading the upper thread .............................................................................................................................24

Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 27

Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) ................................................................ 28

Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 28

Using thread that winds off quickly ................................................................................................................. 31

Pulling up the bobbin thread ...........................................................................................................................31

Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................ 33

Needle precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 33

Needle types and their uses ............................................................................................................................. 33

Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 34

Replacing the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 35

Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................37

Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 37

Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................... 37

Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot ........................................................................................................ 39

Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................... 39

Using the walking foot .................................................................................................................................... 40

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces .................................................................................... 42

Stitching cylindrical pieces .............................................................................................................................. 42

Sewing large pieces of fabric ........................................................................................................................... 42

3

SEWING BASICS .............................................................................................45

Sewing ............................................................................................................................... 46

General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 47

Positioning the fabric ......................................................................................................................................48

Starting to sew ................................................................................................................................................. 49

Securing the stitching ...................................................................................................................................... 51

Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 53

Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................ 54

Changing the tension of the upper thread ........................................................................................................ 54

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length .............................................................................. 55

Adjusting the stitch width ................................................................................................................................ 55

Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 56

Useful Functions ................................................................................................................57

Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches ....................................................................................... 57

Automatically cutting the thread ..................................................................................................................... 59

Saving stitch settings .......................................................................................................................................60

Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................ 62

Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 62

Changing the sewing direction ........................................................................................................................ 62

Sewing curves .................................................................................................................................................62

Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................63

Sewing thin fabrics .......................................................................................................................................... 64

Sewing stretch fabrics ...................................................................................................................................... 64

Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics ....................................................................................................................... 64

Sewing an even seam allowance ..................................................................................................................... 64

UTILITY STITCHES ..........................................................................................67

Selecting Stitching ............................................................................................................. 68

Stitch types ...................................................................................................................................................... 68

Selecting stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 68

Overcasting Stitches .......................................................................................................... 70

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ...................................................................................70

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J” .............................................................................................71

Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ............................................................................... 72

Basic Stitching ................................................................................................................... 74

Basting ............................................................................................................................................................ 74

Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................. 74

Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................76

Buttonhole Stitching .......................................................................................................... 78

Buttonhole sewing .......................................................................................................................................... 79

Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 82

Zipper Insertion ................................................................................................................. 85

Inserting a centered zipper ..............................................................................................................................85

Inserting a side zipper ..................................................................................................................................... 86

Zipper/piping Insertion .....................................................................................................89

Inserting a centered zipper ..............................................................................................................................89

Inserting a piping ............................................................................................................................................ 90

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................ 91

Stretch stitching ............................................................................................................................................... 91

Elastic attaching .............................................................................................................................................. 91

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................93

Appliqué stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 93

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 95

Piecing ............................................................................................................................................................ 95

Quilting .......................................................................................................................................................... 96

Free-motion quilting ........................................................................................................................................ 97

Satin stitching ..................................................................................................................................................98

4

Reinforcement Stitching .................................................................................................. 100

Triple stretch stitching ...................................................................................................................................100

Bar tack stitching ...........................................................................................................................................100

Darning .........................................................................................................................................................102

Eyelet Stitching ................................................................................................................104

Decorative Stitching ........................................................................................................ 105

Fagoting ........................................................................................................................................................ 106

Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 107

Smocking ......................................................................................................................................................107

Shell tuck stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 108

Joining .......................................................................................................................................................... 109

Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 110

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns ............................................................. 113

Sewing beautiful patterns .............................................................................................................................. 113

Sewing patterns ............................................................................................................................................. 113

Combining patterns .......................................................................................................................................114

Repeat sewing patterns .................................................................................................................................. 115

Checking the selected pattern ....................................................................................................................... 116

Changing the pattern size .............................................................................................................................. 117

Changing the stitch density ........................................................................................................................... 118

Changing the pattern length .......................................................................................................................... 118

Mirror imaging the pattern ............................................................................................................................ 119

Storing a pattern ............................................................................................................................................120

Realigning the pattern ...................................................................................................................................121

Designing a Pattern ......................................................................................................... 123

Drawing a sketch of the pattern ..................................................................................................................... 123

Entering the pattern data ............................................................................................................................... 124

Design exampled .......................................................................................................................................... 126

APPENDIX .....................................................................................................127

Stitch Settings ..................................................................................................................128

Utility stitches ...............................................................................................................................................128

Other stitches ................................................................................................................................................133

Maintenance ....................................................................................................................135

Restrictions on oiling ..................................................................................................................................... 135

Cleaning the machine surface ....................................................................................................................... 135

Cleaning the shuttle race ............................................................................................................................... 135

Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................137

Error messages ..............................................................................................................................................141

Nothing appears in the LCD .......................................................................................................................... 142

Operation beep ............................................................................................................................................. 142

Cancelling the operation beep ...................................................................................................................... 143

Removing the upper cover ............................................................................................................................ 143

Index ...............................................................................................................................144

5

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,

when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the

machine unattended.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or

injury to persons.

2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned

in the instruction manual:

• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp

the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.

• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.

• Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.

3 Electrical Hazards:

• This machine should be connected to an AC power source within the range indicated on the

rating label. Do not connect it to a DC power source or inverter. If you are not sure what kind of
power source you have, contact a qualified electrician.

• This machine is approved for use in the country of purchase only.

4 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has

been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest
authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

• While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord.

• When transporting the machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other
part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.

• When lifting the machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements, otherwise
you may injure your back or knees.

6

5 Always keep your work area clear:

• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

• Do not store objects on the foot controller.

• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.

• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.

• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,
power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.

• Do not place this machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise
the machine may fall, resulting in injuries.

6 Special care is required when sewing:

• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.

• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.

• Switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the
needle area.

• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.

• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching
so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.

7 This machine is not a toy:

• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

• The plastic bag that this machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or
disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.

• Do not use outdoors.

8 For a longer service life:

• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

7

9 For repair or adjustment:

• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem
persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory
or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety.
Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND

CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the

mark, rating as marked on plug.

• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you
should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

8

1 GETTING READY

The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.

Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................10

Understanding the LCD Screens..............................................................................12

Changing the Machine Settings ............................................................................... 14

Winding/Installing the Bobbin ................................................................................18

Upper Threading .....................................................................................................24

Replacing the Needle .............................................................................................. 33

Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................37

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces..........................................................................42

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

WARNING

CAUTION

Turning the Machine On/Off

This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.

Power supply precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

●

Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and

the power supply jack on the machine.

● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.

● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

• When you are away from the machine

• After using the machine

• When the power fails during use

• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection

• During electrical storms

● Use only the power cord included with this machine.

● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to

them. Fire or electric shock may result.

● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to

remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.

● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,

or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.

● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a

fire may result.

10

Turning on the machine

Memo

Note

1

Turning off the machine

Make sure that the sewing machine is turned

1

off (the main power switch is set to “O”), and
then plug the power supply cord into the
power supply jack on the right side of the
machine.

Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a

2

household electrical outlet.

1 Power supply jack

Press the right side of the main power switch

3

on the right side of the machine (set it to “I”).

When you are finished using the sewing machine,
turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing
machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.

Make sure that the machine is not sewing.

1

Press the left side of the main power switch on

2

the right side of the machine (set it to “{”).

X The sewing lamp goes off when the

machine is turned off.

Unplug the power supply cord from the

3

electrical outlet.

Grasp the plug when unplugging the power
supply cord.

Unplug the power supply cord from the

4

power supply jack.

1

X The sewing lamp and the LCD come on

when the machine is turned on.

● When the machine is turned on, the needle
and the feed dogs will make sound when
they move; this is not a malfunction.

● When the sewing machine is turned off, all
stitch settings are cancelled.

● If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power
supply cord. When restarting the sewing
machine, follow the necessary procedure to
correctly operate the machine.

(For U.S.A. only)

● This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit,
contact a qualified electrician to install the
proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any
way.

Turning the Machine On/Off 11

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Memo

1

2

5

4

3

Understanding the LCD Screens

The LCD screen, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, displays the settings for the selected
stitch and error messages if operations are performed incorrectly.
When the sewing machine is turned on, the LCD comes on and the following screen appears.

1 Presser foot that should be used
2 Single or twin needle
3 Selected stitch
4 Stitch length (mm)
5 Stitch width (mm)

● For details on the error messages that appear when an operation is performed incorrectly, refer to “Error
messages” (page 141).

12

Checking machine operating

Note

1

3

4

2

procedures

Simple descriptions on replacing the presser foot,
threading the upper thread, winding the bobbin and
installing the bobbin can be displayed in the LCD.

Turn on the sewing machine.

1

X The LCD comes on.

Press (sewing machine help key) in the

2

operation panel.

X The sewing machine help screen appears.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

3

the image illustrating desired topic is selected.

When you are finished with the help screen,

6

press (OK key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

● For details on each topic, refer to the
corresponding page in this Operation
Manual.

1

1 Replacing the presser foot
2 Threading the upper thread
3 Winding the bobbin
4 Installing the bobbin

Press (OK key).

4

X The first screen describing the procedure for

the selected topic appears.

To display the next screen, press . To

5

return to the previous screen, press .

 Example: Upper threading

Understanding the LCD Screens 13

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Changing the Machine Settings

Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed.

Press (OK key).

Changing the settings

The general procedure for changing machine settings
is described below.

Turn on the sewing machine.

1

X The LCD comes on.

Press (settings key) in the operation

2

panel.

X The settings screen appears.

6

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

3

the stitch or machine attribute that you wish
to set is selected.

Press (OK key).

4

X A screen containing settings for the selected

attribute appears.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

5

the desired setting is selected.

X The setting is changed.

14

■ List of stitch or machine attribute

The stitch or machine attribute that can be set are listed below. For details on each attribute, refer to the
corresponding reference page.

Attribute Icon Details Reference

Automatic
reverse/
reinforcement
stitching

Automatic
thread­cutting

Specifies automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching. page 57

Specifies automatic thread-cutting. page 59

1

Check
pattern

Left/right
mirror
imaging

Pattern
length

Pattern size Sets the size of patterns to be large or small. page 117

Repeated/
single sewing

Stitching
density

Save settings

Needle
position

Twin needle
sewing

Stitch width
control

Language

Allows combined patterns to be checked. page 116

Mirror images patterns along a vertical axis. page 119

Adjusts the length of satin stitches. page 118

Specifies whether the pattern will be sewn once or
repeatedly.

Specifies the sewing density of the stitching. page 118

Allows adjusted pattern widths and lengths to be
saved.

Specifies where the needle is positioned when the
sewing machine is stopped.

Specifies the twin needle. page 28

Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the
sewing speed controller.

Allows the language used in the screens to be
changed.

page 115

page 60

page 16

page 98

page 17

Buzzer

LCD
brightness

Vertical
pattern
adjustment

Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with
each operation.

Adjusts the brightness of the LCD. page 16

Adjusts the up and down position of the pattern. page 121

page 143

Changing the Machine Settings 15

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Changing the needle stop
position

When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
leave the needle lowered in the fabric when sewing
is stopped. However, the machine can be set to
instead leave the needle raised when sewing is
stopped.

Press (settings key) in the operation

1

panel, and then press , , and
(arrow keys) until is selected.

Press (OK key).

2

X The screen for changing the needle stop

position appears.

Press to select .

3

To return to , press .

Adjusting the brightness of
the LCD

The brightness of the LCD can be adjusted.

Press (settings key) in the operation

1

panel, and then press , , and
(arrow keys) until is selected.

Press (OK key).

2

X The screen for changing the brightness of

the LCD appears.

To make the LCD brighter, press (–). To

3

make the LCD darker, press (+).

X The brightness of the LCD is changed.

X The machine is now set to stop with the

needle in the raised position.

Press (OK key).

4

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Press (OK key).

4

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

16

Changing the screen
language

The language used in the screens that are displayed
can be changed to one of the many available. When
the sewing machine is purchased, the screens appear
in English.

Press (settings key) in the operation

1

panel, and then press , , and

(arrow keys) until is selected.

Press (OK key).

2

X The screen for changing the language of the

screens appears.

Press or until the desired language is

3

selected.

The language can be changed to one of the
available: English, German, French, Italian,
Dutch, Spanish, Danish, Norwegian, Swedish,
Finnish, Portuguese, Russian, Korean, Japanese
or others.

1

X The language of the screens is changed.

Press (OK key).

4

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Changing the Machine Settings 17

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Memo

CAUTION

Actual size

This model

Older model

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

1

Winding/Installing the Bobbin

This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.

Bobbin precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.

● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, XA5539-151) designed specifically for this sewing

machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

● The enclosed bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older

models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).

Winding the bobbin

Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.

1 Bobbin winder

● The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on
the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

18

Turn on the sewing machine.

1

2

1

2

3

1

2

3

1

Lift open the upper cover.

2

Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto

6

the spool pin.

Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unrolls from the
bottom front of the spool.

• If the spool is not positioned so that the
thread unrolls correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin.

1

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft

3

so that the spring on the shaft fits into the
notch in the bobbin.

1

2

1 Notch
2 Bobbin winder shaft spring

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.

4

Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the

5

spool pin.

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

7

With the rounded side of the spool cap
positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap
onto the spool pin as far as possible until the
right side of the spool touches the right end of
the spool pin.

• Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small). Use the spool cap with
a diameter that is slightly larger than the
diameter of the spool. The medium-sized
spool cap is already on the spool pin when
the sewing machine is purchased.

1 Spool cap (large)
2 Spool cap (medium)
3 Spool

• When using a spool of cross-wound thread,
install the small spool cap with some space
between the cap and the spool.

1 Spool pin
2 Spool cap

1 Spool
2 Gap
3 Spool cap (small)

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 19

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

CAUTION

1

1

1

1

1

Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the

0

hook on the thread guide for bobbin winding,

●

If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may

and then wind it counterclockwise between
the discs.

become tangled around the spool pin or
the needle may break.

● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,

medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is
too small for the spool being used, the
thread may catch on the slit in the spool
or the needle may break.

While holding the spool with your right hand,

8

pull the thread with your left hand, and then
pass the thread behind the thread guide cover
to the front.

1 Thread guide for bobbin winding

While using your left hand to hold the end of

a

the thread that wraps around the thread guide
for bobbin winding, use your right hand to
wind the free end of the thread clockwise
around the bobbin four or five times.

9

20

1 Thread guide cover

Pass the thread under the thread guide plate
from the right.

1 Thread guide plate

Pull the thread to the right and pass it through

b

the slit in the bobbin winder seat.

1 Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)

X The thread is cut to a suitable length.

Memo

Memo

● Be sure to cut the thread as described on

CAUTION

1

1

CAUTION

the previous page. If the bobbin is wound
without cutting the thread using the
cutter built into the slit in the bobbin
winder seat, the thread may become
tangled in the bobbin or the needle may
bend or break when the bobbin thread
starts to run out.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right

c

(so that the speed will be fast).

Use scissors to cut the end of the thread

f

wound around the bobbin.

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.

g

● If the bobbin winder shaft is set to the right

side, the needle will not move. (Sewing is
impossible.)

1

1 Sewing speed controller

Press (start/stop button) once.

d

When the foot controller is plugged in, press
down on the foot controller.

1 Start/stop button

X The bobbin starts spinning and the thread is

wound around the bobbin.

X The bobbin stops spinning when it is full.

Press (start/stop button) once.

e

When the foot controller is plugged in, remove
your foot from the foot controller.

X The sewing machine stops.

Remove the bobbin from the shaft.

h

Slide the sewing speed controller back to its

i

original position.

● Use a bobbin thread that has been

correctly wound, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.

● When the sewing machine is started or the

balance wheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 21

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Memo

CAUTION

Actual size

This model Older model

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

12

CAUTION

Remove the bobbin cover.

Installing the bobbin

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

● Use a bobbin thread that has been

4

Hold the bobbin with your right hand and

5

hold the end of the thread with your left.

correctly wound, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.

• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.

Insert the bobbin with your right hand so that

6

the end of the thread is on the left, and then,

● The bobbin was designed specifically for

this sewing machine. If bobbins from

after pulling the thread firmly around the tab
with your left hand as shown, lightly pull the
thread to guide it through the slit.

older models are used, the machine will
not operate correctly. Use only the
enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same
type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).

● The order that the bobbin thread should be

Press (needle position button) once or

1

twice to raise the needle, and then raise the
presser foot lever.

Turn off the sewing machine.

2

Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.

3

1 Bobbin cover
2 Latch

X The bobbin cover opens.

22

passed through the shuttle is indicated by
marks around the shuttle. Be sure to thread
the machine as indicated.

1

1 Tab

● Be sure to install the bobbin so that the

thread unwinds in the correct direction,
otherwise the thread may break or the
thread tension will be incorrect.

While lightly holding down the bobbin with

Memo

2

1

7

your right hand as shown, guide the thread
through the slit (1 and 2).

• At this time, check that the bobbin easily
rotates counterclockwise.

Then, pull the thread toward you to cut it with
the cutter (3).

1 Slit
2 Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)

Reattach the bobbin cover.

8

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.

1

X The lower threading is finished.

Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with
the procedure in “Upper Threading” (on the
next page).

● You can begin sewing without pulling up

the bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the
bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull
up the thread according to the procedure in
“Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 31).

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 23

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Memo

CAUTION

1

Upper Threading

In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are
described.

● When threading the upper thread,

carefully follow the instructions. If the
upper threading is not correct, the thread
may become tangled or the needle may
bend or break.

● The order that the machine should be

threaded is indicated by a solid line on the
sewing machine. Be sure to thread the
machine as indicated.

Threading the upper thread

Turn on the sewing machine.

1

Raise the presser foot lever.

2

1 Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is raised.

24

• If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing

1

1

1

2

1

2

3

1

2

3

machine cannot be threaded correctly.

Press (needle position button) once

3

or twice to raise the needle.

1 Needle position button

• If the needle is not correctly raised, the
sewing machine cannot be threaded. Check
that the mark on the balance wheel is facing
up as shown in the illustration below. If the
balance wheel is not in this position, be sure
to press the needle position button to raise
the needle before using the needle threader.

Place the spool for the upper thread onto the

6

spool pin.

Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unrolls from the
bottom front of the spool.

• If the spool is not positioned so that the
thread unrolls correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin.

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

7

With the rounded side of the spool cap
positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap
onto the spool pin as far as possible until the
right side of the spool touches the right end of
the spool pin.

1

1 Mark on balance wheel

Lift open the upper cover.

4

Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the

5

spool pin.

1 Spool pin
2 Spool cap

• Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small). Use the spool cap with
a diameter that is slightly larger than the
diameter of the spool. The medium-sized
spool cap is already on the spool pin when
the sewing machine is purchased.

1 Spool cap (large)
2 Spool cap (medium)
3 Spool

• When using a spool of cross-wound thread,
install the small spool cap with some space
between the cap and the spool.

1 Spool
2 Gap
3 Spool cap (small)

Upper Threading 25

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

CAUTION

1

1

1

1

While using your right hand to hold the thread

0

passed under the thread guide plate taut, pass

● If the spool or the spool cap is not

positioned correctly, the thread may

the thread through the guides in the order (up
→ left → down → up → down) shown.

become tangled around the spool pin or
the needle may break.

● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,

medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is
too small for the spool being used, the
thread may catch on the slit in the spool
or the needle may break.

1 Shutter

The following diagram shows the shutter
position when the presser foot is lowered.
Since the shutter is closed when the presser

While holding the spool with your right hand,

8

pull the thread with your left hand, and then
pass the thread behind the thread guide cover
to the front.

foot is lowered, the machine cannot be
threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot so
that the shutter is open in order to thread the
machine.

1 Thread guide cover

Pass the thread under the thread guide plate

9

from the right.

1 Thread guide plate

1 Shutter

Pass the thread through the thread hook at the

a

base of the needle bar.

1

1 Thread hook

Next, use the needle threader to thread the
needle. Continue with the procedure in
“Threading the needle” (on the next page).

26

Threading the needle

Memo

1

2

2

1

1

1

1

Lower the presser foot lever.

3

● The needle threader can be used with
sewing machine needles 75/11 through
100/16.

● The needle threader cannot be used with
the wing needle or the twin needle.

● If the needle threader cannot be used, refer
to “Threading the needle manually (without
using the needle threader)” on page 28.

Pull the end of the thread, which has been

1

passed through the needle bar thread guide,
to the left, then pass the thread through the
notch of the thread guide 1, and then firmly
pull the thread from the front and insert it into
the slit of the thread guide disk marked “7” all
the way 2.
Make sure that the thread passes the notch of
the thread guide.

1 Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is lowered.

Lower the needle threader lever until it clicks.

4

1 Needle threader lever

X The thread is passed through the eye of the

needle.

Release the needle threader lever.

5

Carefully pull on the loop of thread passed

6

through the eye of the needle to pull out the
end of the thread.

1

1 Notch of the thread guide
2 Thread guide disk

Cut the thread with the cutter on the left side

2

of the machine.

1 Thread cutter

Raise the presser foot lever, pass the thread

7

through the presser foot, and then pull out
about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread toward the rear
of the machine.

5

1

1 5 cm (2 inch)

X The upper threading is finished.

Now that the upper threading and the lower threading
are finished, you are ready to begin sewing.

Upper Threading 27

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Note

1

CAUTION

CAUTION

Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of

4

the thread through the presser foot, and then

● If the needle is not raised, the needle
threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure
to press the needle position button to raise
the needle before using the needle threader.

● If the twin needle is installed, the needle
threader cannot be used. For details, refer to
“Using the twin needle” (at the right).

Threading the needle
manually (without using the
needle threader)

When using specialty thread, such as transparent
nylon thread or metallic thread, a wing needle or a
twin needle which cannot be used with the needle
threader, thread the needle as described below.

Thread the machine to the needle bar thread

1

guide.

• For details, refer to “Upper Threading” on

page 24.

pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread
toward the rear of the machine.

Using the twin needle

With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines
of the same stitch with two different threads. Both
upper threads should have the same thickness and
quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra
spool pin and the spool cap.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the
twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 128).

Lower the presser foot lever.

2

1 Pressor foot lever

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle

3

from front to back.

● Do not touch the (start/stop button),

(needle position button) or
(reverse/reinforcement stitch button). If
one of the buttons is accidentally
pressed, the machine will begin sewing
and your finger may be pricked with the
needle or the needle may break.

● Only use the twin needle (part code:

X59296-121). Use of any other needle
may bend the needle or damage the
machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can

easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

Install the twin needle.

1

• For details on installing a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 35).

Thread the upper thread for the left needle

2

eye.

• For details, refer to steps 1 through a of
“Threading the upper thread” (page 24).

28

Manually thread the left needle with the

1

1

CAUTION

3

upper thread.

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.

Thread the upper thread in the same way that

7

the upper thread for the left side was
threaded.

1

• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin
needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin
needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.

Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin

4

winder shaft.

Insert the extra spool pin so that it is
perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft.

1 Bobbin winder shaft

Swing down the spool pin so that it is horizontal.

5

1 Thread guide cover

• For details, refer to step 8 through 0 of

“Threading the upper thread” (page 26).

Without passing the thread through the

8

needle bar thread hook, manually thread the
right needle.

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.

• The needle threader cannot be used with the
twin needle. If the needle threader is used
with the twin needle, the sewing machine
may be damaged.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

9

• For details on changing the presser foot, refer
to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

Place the upper thread spool for the needle on

6

the right side onto the extra spool pin, and
then secure it with the spool cap.

The thread should unroll from the top front of the spool.

12

1 Spool cap
2 Spool

● When using the twin needle, be sure to

attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.

Turn on the sewing machine.

0

X The LCD comes on.

Upper Threading 29

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

CAUTION

CAUTION

CAUTION

Press (settings key) in the operation panel.

a

X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

b

c

d

e

is selected.

Press (OK key).

X The screen for selecting the twin needle

appears.

Press to select .

To return to , press .

X The twin needle can now be used.

Press (OK key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again, and

appears in the lower-left corner of the

screen.

Select a stitch.

f

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 68).

• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 128).

● When using the twin needle, be sure to

select an appropriate stitch, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine
may be damaged.

Start sewing.

g

• For details on starting to sew, refer to
“Starting to sew” (page 49).

X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to

each other.

• Even after the sewing machine is turned off,
the twin needle setting is not cancelled.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to

select the twin needle setting, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine
may be damaged.

30

● When changing the sewing direction,

press (needle position button) to
raise the needle from the fabric, and then
raise the presser foot lever and turn the
fabric.

Using thread that winds off

2

1

3

4

1

quickly

When using thread that winds off quickly, such as
transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the
enclosed spool net over the spool before placing the
spool of thread onto the spool pin.
If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the
spool.

1 Spool net
2 Spool
3 Spool cap
4 Spool pin

Pulling up the bobbin thread

When making gathers or before free-motion quilting,
first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.

Insert the bobbin into the shuttle.

1

• Refer to steps
bobbin” (page 22).

Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.

2

Do not cut the thread with the cutter.

While lightly holding the upper thread with

3

your left hand, press (needle position
button) twice to raise the needle.

1 through 5 of “Installing the

1

1 Needle position button

X The bobbin thread is looped around the

upper thread and can be pulled up.

Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull

4

out the end of the bobbin thread.

Upper Threading 31

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

2

1

Pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of the bobbin

5

thread under the presser foot toward the rear
of the machine.

Reattach the bobbin cover.

6

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.

32

Replacing the Needle

CAUTION

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to
read and carefully follow the instructions below.

Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or

●

damage the machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

1

Fabric Type/Application

Medium weight

fabrics

Thin fabrics

Thick fabrics

Stretch

fabrics

Easily frayed fabrics

Thread

Type Size

Broadcloth Cotton thread

60–90

Taffeta Synthetic thread

Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50

Lawn Cotton thread

60–90

Georgette Synthetic thread

Challis, Satin Silk thread 50

30 100/16

Denim Cotton thread

50

Corduroy Synthetic thread

50-60

Tweed Silk thread

Jersey

Thread for knits 50–60

Tricot

Cotton thread

50–90

Size of Needle

75/11–90/14

65/9–75/11

90/14–100/16

Ball point needle

75/11–90/14

(golden colored)

65/9–90/14Synthetic thread

For top-stitching

Silk thread 50

Synthetic thread

Silk thread

30 100/16

50–60 90/11–90/14

Replacing the Needle 33

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Note

Memo

CAUTION

1

2

1

1

Checking the needle

● Never use a thread of weight 20 or lower. It
may cause malfunctions.

● The smaller the thread number, the thicker
the thread, and the larger the needle
number, the thicker the needle.

● Use the ball point needle when sewing on
stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped
stitches easily occur.

● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with
transparent nylon threads, regardless of the
fabric being sewn.

● The appropriate fabric, thread and

needle combinations are shown in the
table on the previous page. If the
combination of the fabric, thread and
needle is not correct, particularly when
sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with
thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the
needle may bend or break. In addition,
the stitching may be uneven or puckered
or there may be skipped stitches.

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.

1 Flat side
2 Needle type marking

■ Correct needle

1 Flat surface

■ Incorrect needle

If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.

34

1 Flat surface

Replacing the needle

1

CAUTION

1

2

1

Replace the needle as described below. Use the
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined
to be straight according to the instructions in
“Checking the needle”.

Press (needle position button) once or

1

twice to raise the needle.

1 Needle position button

Turn off the sewing machine.

2

Hold the needle with your left hand, and then

4

use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp
screw counterclockwise to remove the
needle.

1 Screwdriver
2 Needle clamp screw

• Do not apply a strong force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.

With the flat side of the needle toward the

5

rear of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.

1

Before replacing the needle, be sure to

●

turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the start/stop
button is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.

Lower the presser foot lever.

3

1 Presser foot lever

While holding the needle with your left hand,

6

use the screwdriver to tighten the needle
clamp screw.

Install the twin needle in the same way.

Replacing the Needle 35

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

CAUTION

● Be sure to insert the needle until it

touches the needle stopper and securely
tighten the needle clamp screw with the
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
break or damage may result.

36

Replacing the Presser Foot

CAUTION

1

CAUTION

1

The presser foot presses down on the fabric.

Presser foot precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the needles.

Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the

●

needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.

● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser

foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

Replacing the presser foot

1

Replace the presser foot as described below.
For details on using the side cutter “S”, refer to
“Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side
cutter” (page 72).

Press (needle position button) once or

1

twice to raise the needle.

1 Needle position button

X The needle is raised.

Turn off the sewing machine.

2

● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure

to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the start/stop
button is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.

Raise the presser foot lever.

3

1 Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is raised.

Replacing the Presser Foot 37

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Note

1

2

1

2

3

1

Press the black button at the back of the

4

presser foot holder.

● When a stitch is selected, the icon for the

presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch
again.

Buttonhole foot “A”

Overcasting foot “G”

1 Black button
2 Presser foot holder

X The presser foot holder releases the presser

foot.

Place a different presser foot below the holder

5

so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
notch in the holder.

Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is
positioned to be read.

● For details on the presser foot that should be

used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 128).

Zigzag foot “J”

Button fitting foot “M”

Monogramming foot “N”

Blind stitch foot “R”

Side cutter “S”

1 Presser foot holder
2 Notch
3 Pin

Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the

6

presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the
presser foot holder.

1 Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is attached.

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

7

presser foot is securely attached.

38

Adjusting the pressure of

Note

1

3

Weak

Strong

1

1

the presser foot

Removing the presser foot
holder

The amount of pressure that the presser foot applies
to the fabric can be adjusted.

Lower the presser foot lever.

1

1 Presser foot lever

Turn the presser foot dial at the back of the

2

sewing machine.

The scale on the dial indicates the range from
1 (weak) to 4 (strong). Turn the dial to the right
(smaller number) to decrease the pressure.
Turn the dial to the left (larger number) to
decrease the pressure.

Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the
presser foot holder.

■ Removing the presser foot holder

Remove the presser foot.

1

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot

2

holder screw.

1 Screwdriver

■ Attaching the presser foot holder

Align the presser foot holder with the lower-

1

left side of the presser bar.

1

When you are finished sewing, reset the dial

3

to 3 (standard).

Hold the presser foot holder in place with

2

your right hand, and then tighten the screw
using the screwdriver in your left hand.

1 Screwdriver

● If the presser foot holder is not correctly

installed, the thread tension will be
incorrect.

Replacing the Presser Foot 39

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Note

Note

2

1

1

CAUTION

1

Using the walking foot

With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed
evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser
foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard
to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing
fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when
quilting.
Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.

● Be sure to securely tighten the screw

with the screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot,
causing it to bend or break.

● Before starting to sew, slowly turn the

balance wheel toward you and check
that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.

■ Attaching the walking foot

● Thread the needle manually when using the

walking foot, or only attach the walking foot
after threading the needle using the needle
threader.

Remove the presser foot holder.

1

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (on the previous page).

Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot

2

onto the needle clamp screw.

1 Connecting fork
2 Needle clamp screw

● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.

■ Removing the walking foot

Press (needle position button) once or

1

twice to raise the needle.

1 Needle position button

X The needle is raised.

Turn off the sewing machine.

2

Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser

3

foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw
with the screwdriver.

1 Presser foot holder screw

40

Raise the presser foot lever.

Memo

1

3

1 Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is raised.

With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot

4

holder screw, and then remove the walking
foot.

Attach the presser foot holder.

5

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 39).

1

● Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement

stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used
with the walking foot. For details on the
stitches, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 128).

Replacing the Presser Foot 41

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Note

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces

When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.

Stitching cylindrical pieces

Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to
sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs.

Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.

1

X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-

arm sewing is possible.

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the

2

arm, and then sew from the top.

Sewing large pieces of fabric

The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces
of fabric easier.

Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide

1

table.

Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.

Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.

2

When you are finished with free-arm sewing,

3

install the flat bed attachment back in its
original position.

42

X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-

arm sewing is possible.

Install the wide table.

3

Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into
place.

● The optional wide table is available through
your brother retailer.

Turn the screw at the bottom of the legs to

Memo

CAUTION

4

adjust their height.

● Do not move the sewing machine while

the wide table is attached, otherwise
damage or injuries may occur.

When you are finished using the wide table,

5

remove it.

While slightly lifting up the wide table, pull it
off to the left.

1

Install the flat bed attachment back in its

6

original position.

● With the legs folded up, the wide table can
be stored attached to the hard case.

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces 43

GETTING READY ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

44

2 SEWING BASICS

The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.

Sewing.....................................................................................................................46

Adjusting the Thread Tension..................................................................................54

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length....................................................................55

Useful Functions ..................................................................................................... 57

Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................62

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

CAUTION

Sewing

Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,

●

keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and balance wheel, otherwise
injuries may occur.

● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the

needle may break.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or

bend.

46

General sewing procedure

Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

1

2 Select the stitch.

3

4 Position the fabric.

5 Start sewing.

6 Cut the thread.

Turn on the

machine.

Attach the presser

foot.

Turn on the sewing machine.
For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Turning on the machine”
(page 11).

↓

Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.
For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

↓

Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.
For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

↓

Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric
pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of
the fabric are aligned correctly.
For details on positioning the fabric, refer to “Positioning the fabric”
(page 48).

↓

Start sewing.
For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 49).

↓

Cut the thread at the end of sewing. The thread may also be cut automati­cally.
For details on cutting the thread, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 53).

2

Sewing 47

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Memo

1

1

Positioning the fabric

Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct
order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric
are aligned correctly.

Turn on the sewing machine.

1

Lower the presser foot lever.

5

The straight stitch (left needle position) is
automatically selected.

Press (needle position button) once or

2

twice to raise the needle.

1 Presser foot lever

X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.

1 Needle position button

Place the fabric under the presser foot.

3

• If the seam allowance is positioned on the

right side, sewing in a straight line is easier
and the extra fabric does not get in the way.

While holding the end of the thread and the

4

fabric with your left hand, turn the balance
wheel toward you with your right hand to
lower the needle to the starting point of the
stitching.

● To adjust the pressure that the presser foot
applies to the fabric, refer to “Adjusting the
pressure of the presser foot” (page 39).

48

Starting to sew

Note

1

1

1

Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the
sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted
using either the operation buttons or the foot
controller.

■ Using the operation buttons

Sewing can be started and stopped using the

operation button (start/stop button).

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

1

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

1 Sewing speed controller

When the end of the stitching is reached,

3

press (start/stop button) once.

X The machine stops sewing with the needle

down (in the fabric).

When you are finished sewing, raise the

4

needle, and then cut the threads.

• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”

(page 53).

■ Using the foot controller

Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot
controller.

Turn off the sewing machine.

1

When connecting the foot controller, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine in order to
prevent the machine from accidentally being
started.

2

Press (start/stop button) once.

2

1 Start/stop button

X The machine starts sewing.

• If you continue to hold the start/stop button
pressed immediately after the sewing starts,
the machine will sew at a slow speed.

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on

2

the side of the sewing machine.

1 Foot controller jack

(For U.S.A. only)

● Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this
machine model NX-400/PC-420.

Sewing 49

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Memo

1

Slower

Faster

CAUTION

Turn on the sewing machine.

3

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

4

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

1 Sewing speed controller

• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller is the foot controller’s maximum
sewing speed.

Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly

5

press down on the foot controller.

Pressing down on the foot controller increases
the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the
foot controller decreases the sewing speed.

When you are finished sewing, raise the

7

needle, and then cut the threads.

• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 53).

● When the foot controller is plugged in, the

start/stop button cannot be used to start or
stop sewing.

● When sewing is stopped, the needle

remains lowered (in the fabric). The
machine can be set so that the needle will
stay up when sewing is stopped. For details
on setting the machine so that the needle
stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to
“Changing the needle stop position”
(page 16).

● Do not allow thread or dust to

accumulate in the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.

● Do not place objects on the foot

controller, otherwise damage to the
machine or injuries may occur.

● If the machine is not to be used for a long

period of time, unplug the foot
controller, otherwise a fire or an electric
shock may occur.

• Slowly press down on the foot controller.
Pressing it down hard starts sewing too
quickly.

X The machine starts sewing.

When the end of the stitching is reached,

6

completely release the foot controller.

X The machine stops sewing with the needle

50

lowered (in the fabric).

Securing the stitching

1

1

When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at
the end of an opening or where seams do not
overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement
stitching to secure the end of the thread.

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

1

beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.

After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press

3

(reverse/reinforcement stitch button).

Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
held down until you reach the beginning of the
stitching.

1 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch

button is held pressed, reverse stitches are
sewn.

2

Press (start/stop button) or press down

2

on the foot controller.

At this time, if the start/stop button is held
pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.

1 Start/stop button

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 49).

X The machine starts sewing.

After sewing back to the beginning of the

4

stitching, release the reverse/reinforcement
stitch button.

X The machine stops sewing.

Press (start/stop button), or press down

5

on the foot controller.

X The machine starts sewing in the normal

sewing direction.

When the end of the stitching is reached,

6

press (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button).

Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are
sewn.

X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch

button is depressed, reverse stitches are
sewn.

Sewing 51

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Memo

1

2

5

6

4

3

1

2

1

2

After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,

7

release (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button).

X The machine stops sewing.

Press (start/stop button), or press down

8

on the foot controller.

At this time, if the start/stop button is held
pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.

X The machine starts sewing in the normal

sewing direction.

After sewing to the end of the stitching, the

9

sewing machine stops.

Release the start/stop button or foot controller.

■ Sewing reinforcement stitches

When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag
stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,

pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches

on top of each other.

1 Reverse stitching
2 Reinforcement stitching

● Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 128).

1 Beginning of stitching
2 End of stitching

52

Cutting the thread

Note

Memo

1

1

CAUTION

1

1

1

When you have finished sewing, cut the threads. The
threads can be cut in either of two ways.

■ Using the thread cutter button

When you wish to finish the stitching, press

1

2

(thread cutter button) once.

1 Thread cutter button

X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot lever.

● The machine can be set so that the threads
will be cut when sewing is finished. For
details on setting the machine so that the
threads are cut automatically, refer to
“Automatically cutting the thread”
(page 59).

■ Using the manual thread cutter

When sewing with nylon or metallic threads, or
other special threads, use the thread cutter on the
side of the machine to cut the threads.

When you wish to finish the stitching and the

1

sewing machine is stopped, press
(needle position button) once to raise the
needle.

2

1 Presser foot lever

● Do not press the thread cutter button

after the threads have already been cut,
otherwise the needle may break, the
threads may become tangled or damage
to the machine may occur.

● Do not press the thread cutter button if there
is no fabric under the presser foot or while
the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to
the machine may occur.

1 Needle position button

X The needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot lever.

2

1 Presser foot lever

Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,

3

and then pass the threads through the thread
cutter to cut them.

1 Thread cutter

Sewing 53

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Note

Note

1

2

3

4

1

2

3

4

5

5

1

2

3

4

Adjusting the Thread Tension

The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are
equal.

Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen

Changing the tension of the
upper thread

If the thread and needle combination is correct for
the type of fabric being sewn (according to “Needle
types and their uses” on page 33), the thread tension
will automatically be adjusted to the appropriate
setting. However, if the preset thread tension does
not give the desired result or if you are sewing with
special thread or on special fabric, use the thread
tension dial under the upper cover to adjust the
tension of the upper thread.

■ Correct thread tension

The upper thread and the bobbin thread should
cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper
thread should be visible from the right side of the
fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be
visible from the wrong side of the fabric.

the upper thread.

■ Upper thread is too loose

If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.

● If the upper thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too
loose. In this case, refer to “Upper
Threading” on page 24 and rethread the
upper thread.

1 Wrong side of

fabric

2 Right side of

fabric

3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread

■ Upper thread is too tight

If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.

● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too tight.
In this case, refer to “Installing the bobbin”
on page 22 and rethread the bobbin thread.

1 Wrong side of

fabric

2 Right side of

fabric

3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread
5 The bobbin

thread is visible
from the right
side of the
fabric.

1 Wrong side of

fabric

2 Right side of

fabric

3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread
5 The upper

thread is visible
from the wrong
side of the
fabric.

Turn the thread tension dial to the right to tighten
the upper thread.

54

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length

Memo

–

+

CAUTION

The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is
selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within
which the width and length can be set, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 128).

Adjusting the stitch width

The stitch width can be adjusted with the arrow keys.

Turn on the sewing machine.

1

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

2

X A screen containing settings for the selected

stitch appears.

● To reset the stitch width to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or
change the setting to the highlighted value.

● If the straight stitch (left needle position or
triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing
the stitch width changes the needle
position. Increasing the width moves the
needle to the right; reducing the width
moves the needle to the left.

● The settings can be saved so that they will
always be specified each time the utility
stitch is selected. For details, refer to
“Saving stitch settings” (page 60).

● The sewing machine can be set so that the
stitch width can easily be changed with the
sewing speed controller. For details, refer to
“Satin stitching” (page 98).

2

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 68).

• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the
standard settings (highlighted) appear.

To make the stitch width narrower, press

3

(–). To make the stitch width wider, press
(+).

X The stitch width is changed.

• If the setting is changed, the highlighted
value is erased.

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly

turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.

Adjusting the Thread Tension/Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length

55

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Memo

–

+

CAUTION

Adjusting the stitch length

The stitch length can be adjusted with the arrow
keys.

Turn on the sewing machine.

1

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

2

X A screen containing settings for the selected

stitch appears.

● To reset the stitch length to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or
change the setting to the highlighted value.

● The settings can be saved so that they will
always be specified each time the utility
stitch is selected. For details, refer to
“Saving stitch settings” (page 60).

● If the stitches are bunched together,

increase the stitch length. Continuing to
sew with the stitches bunched together
may result in the needle bending or
breaking.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 68).

• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the
standard settings (highlighted) appear.

To make the stitch length shorter, press (–).

3

To make the stitch length longer, press (+).

X The stitch length is changed.

• If the setting is changed, the highlighted
value is erased.

56

Useful Functions

1

Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.

Press to select .

6

Automatically sewing reverse/
reinforcement stitches

The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew
reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning
and end of the stitching.
Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches
are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For
details, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 128).

Turn on the sewing machine.

1

To return to , press .

X The machine is now set to automatically

Press (OK key).

7

X The initial stitch screen appears again, and

2

sew reverse/reinforcement stitches.

appears in the lower-left corner of the

screen.

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

2

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 68).

Press (settings key) in the operation panel.

3

X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

4

5

is selected.

Press (OK key).

X The screen for specifying automatic reverse/

reinforcement stitching appears.

• When the sewing machine is turned off, the
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
setting is cancelled.

Position the fabric under the presser foot, and

8

then press (start/stop button) once.

1 Start/stop button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the machine starts sewing.

Useful Functions 57

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Memo

1

After reaching the end of the stitching, press

9

(reverse/reinforcement stitch button)

once.

This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.

1 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the sewing machine stops.

● Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be
sewn if the start/stop button is pressed at the
end of the stitching. Be sure to press the
reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the
end of the stitching.

58

Automatically cutting the

1

thread

The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut
the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called
“programmed thread-cutting”.
If programmed thread-cutting is set, automatic
reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set. This
setting is convenient if a stitch for sewing
buttonholes or bar tacks is selected.

Turn on the sewing machine.

1

Press to select .

6

To return to , press .

X The machine is now set for programmed

thread-cutting.

Press (OK key).

7

X The initial stitch screen appears again, and

appears in the lower-left corner of the

screen.

2

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

2

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to

“Selecting stitching” (page 68).

Press (settings key) in the operation panel.

3

X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

4

5

is selected.

Press (OK key).

X The screen for specifying automatic thread-

cutting appears.

• When the sewing machine is turned off, the
programmed thread-cutting setting is
cancelled.

Position the fabric under the presser foot, and

8

then press (start/stop button) once.

1 Start/stop button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the machine starts sewing.

After reaching the end of the stitching, press

9

(reverse/reinforcement stitch button)

once.

This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.

Useful Functions 59

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Memo

The thread is cut here.

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the sewing machine stops and cuts

Saving stitch settings

the thread.

Adjusted stitch width and length settings can be
saved so that they will be specified each time the
stitch is selected. The various settings can be saved
for each utility stitch.

Select the stitch, and then adjust the stitch

1

width and length.

To adjust the stitch width, press (–) and

(+). To adjust the stitch length, press (–) and

(+).

● Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be
sewn and the thread will not automatically
be cut if the start/stop button is pressed at
the end of the stitching. Be sure to press the
reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the
end of the stitching.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 68).

X The stitch width and length are changed.

Press (settings key) in the operation

2

panel.

X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

3

is selected.

Press (OK key).

4

X The screen for saving the settings appears.

Check the is selected, and then press

5

(OK key).

60

X The settings for the stitch width and length

are saved.

• The next time that the stitch is selected, the
saved settings are the first ones that are
displayed.

• To clear the saved settings and return the
stitch width and length to their default

settings, press so that , and then press

(OK key).

2

Useful Functions 61

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Useful Sewing Tips

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when
sewing your project.

Trial sewing

After you have set up the machine with the thread
and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being
sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread
tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that
is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be
sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and
stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be
achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.

Changing the sewing
direction

When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the

1

sewing machine.

Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle remained up when the machine

stopped sewing, press (needle position
button) to lower the needle.

Sewing curves

Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve. For details on
sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to
“Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 64).

When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the

2

fabric.

Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

Lower the presser foot lever and continue

3

sewing.

62

Sewing thick fabrics

1

1

CAUTION

■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot

If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.

Release the presser foot locking pin (black

4

button).

X The presser foot remains level, allowing the

fabric to be fed.

■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching

The fabric may not feed when thick seams are
being sewn and the presser foot is not level, as
shown below. In this case, use the presser foot
locking pin (black button on the left side of zigzag
foot “J”) so that the presser foot remains level
while sewing, allowing the fabric to be fed
smoothly.

1 Sewing direction

Raise the presser foot lever.

1

Align the beginning of stitching, and then

2

position the fabric.

X After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will

return to its original angle.

● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)

thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
bend or break.

2

While holding zigzag foot “J” level, hold the

3

presser foot locking pin (black button on the
left side) pressed in, and lower the presser
foot lever.

1 Presser foot holding pin (black button)

Useful Sewing Tips 63

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

1

1

1

1

2

Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If
this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material
under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric.
When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess
paper.

1 Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then
sew without stretching the fabric.

Sewing leathers or vinyl
fabrics

When sewing the fabrics that may stick to the presser
foot such as leathers or coated fabrics, change the
presser foot to the optional non stick foot.

1 Leather

Sewing an even seam
allowance

To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam
allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the
edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge
of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.

■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot

Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser
foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.

64

1 Basting

1 Seam
2 Presser foot

■ Aligning the fabric with the optional stitch guide
foot

Sew while keeping the right edge of the fabric
aligned with a desired position of markings on the
stitch guide foot.

1

2

1 Seam
2 Stitch guide foot
3 Markings

3

■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking

6

1

2

5

4

3

The markings on the needle plate show the
distance from the needle position of a seam sewn
with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew
while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with
a marking in the needle plate. The distance
between the markings in the upper scale is
1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the
markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).

1 Seam
2 Presser foot
3 Centimeters
4 Inches
5 Needle plate
6 16 mm (5/8 inch)

2

Useful Sewing Tips 65

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

66

3 UTILITY STITCHES

The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.

Selecting Stitching ...................................................................................................68

Overcasting Stitches................................................................................................70

Basic Stitching.........................................................................................................74

Blind Hem Stitching ................................................................................................ 76

Buttonhole Stitching................................................................................................ 78

Zipper Insertion ...................................................................................................... 85

Zipper/piping Insertion ...........................................................................................89

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape..................................................................91

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ................................................................ 93

Reinforcement Stitching ........................................................................................ 100

Eyelet Stitching......................................................................................................104

Decorative Stitching..............................................................................................105

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns...................................................113

Designing a Pattern ...............................................................................................123

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Selecting Stitching

You can select any of the various types of stitching available.

Stitch types

A total of 8 groups of stitch types (utility stitches,
decorative stitches, satin stitches, cross-stitches,
decorative satin stitches and 3 types of character
stitches) are available.
For details on the types of stitches available, refer to
“Stitch Settings” (page 128).

■ Utility stitches

There are 67 utility stitches, including straight
stitches, overcasting stitches and buttonhole
stitches.

■ Decorative stitches

There are 31 decorative stitches, including hearts,
leaves and flowers.

■ Satin stitches

There are 16 satin stitches.

■ Cross-stitches

There are 5 types of cross-stitches.

■ Decorative satin stitches

There are 10 decorative satin stitches.

■ Character stitch—Gothic font

There are 55 characters, including letters,
symbols and numbers, in the Gothic font.

Selecting stitching

Using the operation panel keys, select the desired
stitch from those shown in the LCD. Twelve of the
most often used utility stitches can quickly be
selected with the stitch keys.
When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight
stitch (left needle position) is selected.

Determine the stitch that you wish to use.

1

• Refer to “Stitch types” (at the left).

Determine which presser foot should be used

2

with the selected stitch.

The presser feet are stored in the accessory
compartment.

• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 128).

Attach the presser foot.

3

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

Turn on the sewing machine.

4

■ Character stitch—Script font

There are 55 characters, including letters,
symbols and numbers, in the Script font.

■ Character stitch—Outline style

There are 55 characters, including letters,
symbols and numbers, in the outline style.

68

X The straight stitch (left needle position) is

shown selected in the LCD.

Press (stitch selection key) in the

5

operation panel.

To select a stitch using the stitch keys, press the
key of the desired stitch.
Continue with step

0.

X The screen containing the various types of

stitches appears.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

Note

Memo

1

2

6

the type of stitch that you wish to use is
selected.

Press (OK key).

7

X The screen containing the various stitches in

the selected stitch type appears.

■ Understanding the screen

● When a stitch is selected, the icon for the

presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch
again.

● For details on adjusting the stitch width and

length, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width
and Length” (page 55).

3

1 Selected stitch type
2 Number of stitches in the selected stitch type

• To select a different stitch type, press
(back key).

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

8

the stitch that you wish to use is selected.

Press to return to the previous screen.

Press to display the next screen.

Press (OK key).

9

X The stitch is selected.

If necessary, specify the setting for automatic

0

reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the
stitch length, etc.

• For details on sewing with each of the utility
stitches, refer to the following pages.

Selecting Stitching 69

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

G

1

1

CAUTION

Overcasting Stitches

Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Fifteen stitches are available for
overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”

Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.

Stitch

Stitch Name

Pattern

11

Key

Preventing fraying in medium
weight and thin fabrics

Overcasting

stitch

12

Preventing fraying in thick

13

fabrics and fabrics that fray
easily

–

Attach overcasting foot “G”.

1

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

Select a stitch.

2

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 68).

Application

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Sew with the edge of the fabric against the

4

presser foot guide.

1 Needle drop point

Presser

Foot

G

Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric

3

against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.

1 Guide

70

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly

turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”

Memo

J

1

1

Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.

Stitch Name

Zigzag stitch

(center

Pattern

7

needle

position)

Zigzag stitch
(right needle

8

position)

2-point

9

zigzag stitch

3-point

10

zigzag stitch

14

Overcasting

15

stitch

16

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

1

Stitch

Key

Application

Preventing fraying (center
baseline/reverse stitching)

Preventing fraying (right

–

baseline/reinforcement
stitching)

–

Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics and stretch fabrics

Preventing fraying in stretch

–

fabrics

Preventing fraying in thick

–

fabrics and stretch fabrics

Preventing fraying in stretch

–

fabrics

Stitch Width

[mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

4.0

(3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

0.3–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Presser

Foot

3

J

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

Select a stitch.

2

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 68).

Sew along the edge of the fabric with the

3

needle dropping off the edge at the right.

1 Needle drop point

1 Needle drop point

● For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,
decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For
details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of
the presser foot” (page 39).

Overcasting Stitches 71

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

1

2

1

2

Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter

Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be
used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.

Stitch Name

Pattern

63

Sewing straight stitches while cutting

Application

the fabric

64

Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting
the fabric

Preventing fraying in thin and

Overcasting

stitch

65

mediumweight fabrics while cutting
the fabric

66

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics
while cutting the fabric

67

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics
while cutting the fabric

Remove the presser foot.

1

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

Stitch Width

[mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4

(0)

0.0–2.5

(0–3/32)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.4

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter
onto the needle clamp screw.

Presser

Foot

S

Lower the presser foot lever, and then

2

manually thread the needle.

• The needle threader cannot be used. If the
needle threader is used with the side cutter,
the sewing machine may be damaged.

Raise the presser foot lever.

3

72

1 Connecting fork
2 Needle clamp screw

Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin

5

is aligned with the notch in the presser foot
holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot
lever.

1 Notch in presser foot holder
2 Pin

X The side cutter is attached.

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

Memo

CAUTION

1

1

6

side cutter is securely attached.

Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,

7

and then pull it out toward the rear of the
sewing machine.

Position the fabric in the side cutter.

0

The cut in the fabric should be positioned over
the guide plate of the side cutter.

1 Guide plate

• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the
fabric will not be cut.

Select a stitch.

8

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 68).

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly

turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.

Make a cut of about 2 cm (1/16 inch) long in

9

the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.

1 2 cm (1/16 inch)

Lower the presser foot lever, and then start

a

sewing.

X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching

is sewn.

• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the
seam allowance will be about 5 mm
(3/16 inch).

1

1 5 mm (3/16 inch)

3

● The side cutter can cut as much as one layer

of 13-oz. denim.

● After using the side cutter, clean it by

removing any lint or dust.

● If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,

use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to
the cutting edge of the cutter.

● The optional side cutter is available through

your brother retailer.

Overcasting Stitches 73

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

J

1

J

Basic Stitching

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.

Stitch

Stitch Name

Basting

stitch

Straight

stitch (left

needle

position)

Pattern

6

1

2

Key

Application

– Temporarily securing

Basic stitching and sewing
gathers or pintucks (left
baseline/reverse stitching)

Basic stitching and sewing

–

gathers or pintucks (left baseline/
reinforcement stitching)

Straight

stitch

(center

needle

3

Basic stitching and sewing
gathers or pintucks (center
baseline/reverse stitching)

position)

Triple

stretch

stitch

4

Reinforcing seams and sewing
stretch fabrics

Basting

Sew basting with a stitch length of 5 mm (3/16 inch).

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

1

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0

0.0

0.0

0.0

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

––

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

––

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Basic stitching

Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

1

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

2

Presser

Foot

J

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

Select stitch 6.

2

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 68).

Start sewing.

3

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”

Select a stitch.

3

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 68).

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

4

beginning of the stitching.

(page 49).

1 5 mm (3/16 inch)

74

Start sewing.

1

2

0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0

1

6

543

2

5

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 49).

• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching”
(page 51).

When sewing is finished, cut the thread.

6

• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 53).

■ Changing the needle position

The needle position used as the baseline is
different for the straight stitch (left needle position)
and the straight stitch (center needle position).

1 Straight stitch (left needle position)
2 Straight stitch (center needle position)

When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left
needle position) is set to its standard setting
(0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to
the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm
(1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between
0 and 7 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will
also change. By changing the stitch width and
sewing with the right side of the presser foot
aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam
allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.

3

1 Stitch width
2 Distance from the needle position to the right

side of the presser foot

3 12.0 mm (1/2 inch)
4 10.0 mm (3/8 inch)
5 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
6 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 55).

Basic Stitching 75

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

2

1

3

4

2

1

R

R

1

2

3

Blind Hem Stitching

Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.

Stitch

Stitch Name

Blind hem

stitch

Pattern

17

18

Key

Application

Blind hem stitching on
mediumweight fabrics

Blind hem stitching on stretch
fabrics

Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.

Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the

1

hem, and then baste it about 5 mm
(3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric.

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting stitching
3 Desired edge of hem
4 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0

3← – 3→

(0)

0.0

3← – 3→

(0)

Attach blind hem foot “R”.

3

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

Select a stitch.

4

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 68).

Position the fabric with the edge of the folded

5

hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
then lower the presser foot lever.

Presser

Foot

R

R

Fold back the fabric along the basting, and

2

then position the fabric with the wrong side
facing up.

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting

76

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Fold of hem
3 Guide

Adjust the stitch width until the needle

Memo

R

1

1

–

+

1

2

1

2

1

2

6

slightly catches the fold of the hem.

1 Needle drop point

■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold

The needle is too far to the right.
Press (of the arrow keys) to increase the
stitch width so that the needle slightly catches
the fold of the hem.

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric

• For details on changing the stitch width,
refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and
Length” (page 55).

3

1 Stitch width

■ If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold

The needle is too far to the left.
Press (of the arrow keys) to decrease the
stitch width so that the needle slightly catches
the fold of the hem.

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric

Sew with the fold of the hem against the

7

presser foot guide.

Remove the basting stitching.

8

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric

● For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,
decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For
details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of
the presser foot” (page 39).

Blind Hem Stitching 77

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Buttonhole Stitching

Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Eleven stitches are available for sewing on buttons and
one-step buttonholes.

Stitch Name

Buttonhole

stitch

Pattern

42

43

44

45

46

47

48

49

50

51

Stitch

Key

Application

Horizontal buttonholes on

–

thin and mediumweight
fabrics

Horizontal buttonholes on

–

areas that are subject to strain

Horizontal buttonholes on

–

thick fabrics

Buttonholes with bar tacks on
both ends for stabilized fabrics

Buttonholes for stretch or knit

–

fabrics

– Buttonholes for stretch fabrics

– Bound buttonholes

Keyhole buttonholes for thick

–

or plush fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes for

–

mediumweight and thick
fabrics

Horizontal buttonhole for

–

thick or plush fabrics

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

6.0

(15/64)

6.0

(15/64)

5.0

(3/16)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

0.0–6.0

(0–15/64)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

1.0

(1/16)

1.5

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.5–2.0

(1/32–1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

Presser

Foot

A

78

Button-

sewing

stitch

55

– Button sewing

3.5

(1/8)

2.5–4.5

(3/32–3/16)

–– M

Buttonhole sewing

1

1

1

1

1 Reinforcement stitching

A

1

2

5

3

4

The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

3

The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.

1 Button guide plate
2 Presser foot scale
3 Pin
4 Marks on buttonhole foot
5 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position

1

and length of the buttonhole.

1

1 Marks on fabric
2 Button hole sewing

Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole

2

foot “A”, and then insert the button that will
be put through the buttonhole.

2

Buttonhole Stitching 79

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

1

3

2

1

2

A

1

2

1

1

1

2

■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate

Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

1 Presser foot scale
2 Length of buttonhole

(Diameter + thickness of button)

3 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm
(9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch),
the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm
(1 inch) on the scale.

Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct
size.

1 Do not reduce the gap.

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

6

possible.

1 Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the

1 10 mm (3/8 inch)
2 15 mm (9/16 inch)

bracket on the buttonhole foot.

X The size of the buttonhole is set.

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

3

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

1 Buttonhole lever

Select a stitch.

4

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 68).

2 Bracket

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

7

your left hand, and then start sewing.

Position the fabric with the front end of the

5

buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks
on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.

X Once sewing is completed, the machine

automatically sews reinforcement stitches,

1 Mark on fabric
2 Red marks on buttonhole foot

80

then stops

Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever,

8

and then remove the fabric.

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

Memo

1

1

1

CAUTION

–

+

–

+

9

position.

Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at

0

the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent
the stitching from being cut.

1 Pin

Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin

a

and open the buttonhole.

■ Changing the density of the stitching

Adjust the stitch length.

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
length” (page 56).

• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is
too thick), increase the density of the
stitching.

■ Changing the stitch width

Adjust the stitch width.

3

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 55).

1 Seam ripper

For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch
to make a hole in the rounded end of the
buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut
open the buttonhole.

1 Eyelet punch

• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.

When opening the buttonhole with the

●

seam ripper, do not place your hands in
the cutting direction, otherwise injuries
may result if the seam ripper slips.

● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics

When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a
gimp thread.

Hook the gimp thread onto the part of

1

buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
so that it fits into the grooves, and then
loosely tie it.

Buttonhole Stitching 81

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

1

2

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

2

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

Button sewing

foot” (page 37).

Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.

Select stitch 46 or 47.

3

Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the

4

gimp thread.

Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the

1

drop feed lever, located at the rear of the
machine on the base, to (to the right as

Lower the presser foot lever and the

5

buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.

seen from the front of the machine).

When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp

6

thread to remove any slack.

Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp

7

thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.

With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the

8

gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
buttonhole.

Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.

1 Drop feed lever

(as seen from the rear of the machine)

2 Back side

X The feed dogs are lowered.

Attach button-sewing foot “M”.

2

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 37).

82

Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”.

1

CAUTION

1

3

1 Button

• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.

Select stitch 55.

4

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 68).

• Leave automatic thread-cutting set to .

Turn the balance wheel toward you to check

5

that the needle correctly goes into the two
holes of the button.

Adjust the stitch width to the distance between
the button holes.

● When sewing, be sure that the needle

does not touch the button, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.

Start sewing.

6

X The sewing machine automatically stops

after sewing reinforcement stitches.

• If additional strength is needed to secure the
button, perform the button-sewing operation
twice.

• Do not press the thread cutter button.

Pull the upper thread at the end of the

7

stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it with the bobbin thread.

Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.

When you are finished attaching the button,

8

slide the drop feed lever to (to the left as
seen from the front of the machine) and turn
the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.

3

1 Back side

Buttonhole Stitching 83

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

1

■ Attaching a shank to a button

To sew the button with a shank, attach the button
with space between it and the fabric, and then
wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button
securely.

Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”,

1

and then pull the shank lever toward you.

1 Shank lever

After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread

2

with plenty of excess, wind it around the
thread between the button and the fabric, and
then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning
of the stitching.

Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at
the end and at the beginning of the stitching at
the wrong side of the fabric.

Cut off any excess thread.

3

84

Zipper Insertion

I

2

1

3

1

2

4

3

1

1

2

3

I

1

2

A zipper can be sewn in place.

Stitch

Stitch Name

Straight

stitch (center

needle

position)

There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper
are described below.

Pattern

3

Key

Attaching zippers
Sewing concealed seams and
pintucks

Application

Inserting a centered zipper

Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted
against each other.

1 Right side of fabric
2 Stitching
3 End of zipper opening

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

––

Press open the seam allowance from the

3

wrong side of the fabric.

1 Wrong side of fabric

Align the seam with the center of the zipper,

4

and then baste the zipper in place.

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

Presser

Foot

0.2–5.0

3

Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight

1

stitches up to the zipper opening.

With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.

• For details, refer to “Basic Stitching”
(page 74).

Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the

2

edge of the fabric.

1 Basting stitching
2 Reverse stitches
3 Wrong side of fabric
4 End of zipper opening

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting stiching
3 Zipper

Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin

5

of zipper foot “I”.

1 Pin on the right side
2 Needle drop point

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

Zipper Insertion 85

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

CAUTION

1

3

2

4

CAUTION

1

3

2

1

2

4

3

1

Select stitch 3.

6

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 68).

● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to

Inserting a side zipper

Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use
this type of zipper for side openings and back
openings.

select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the balance
wheel toward you to check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
a different stitch is selected or the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may
bend or break.

1 Stitching

Topstitch around the zipper.

7

2 Right side of fabric
3 End of zipper opening

The following procedure will describe how to stitch
on the left side, as shown in the illustration.

Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight

1

stitches up to the zipper opening.

With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.

• For details, refer to “Basic Stitching”
(page 74).

1 Stitching
2 Right side of fabric
3 Basting stitching
4 End of zipper opening

● When sewing, be sure that the needle

does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.

Remove the basting stitching.

8

Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the

2

edge of the fabric.

1 Basting stitching
2 Reverse stitches
3 Wrong side of fabric
4 End of zipper opening

Press open the seam allowance from the

3

wrong side of the fabric.

1 Wrong side of fabric

86

Press the seam allowance so that the right side

1

2

I

1

2

CAUTION

CAUTION

4

(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra
3 mm (1/8 inch).

● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to

select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the balance
wheel toward you to check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
a different stitch is selected or the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may
bend or break.

1 Wrong side of fabric
2 3 mm (1/8 inch)

Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge

5

of the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch),
and then baste or pin the zipper in place.

2

1

1 Zipper teeth
2 Basting stitching

Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin

6

of zipper foot “I”.

If the stitching will be sewn on the right side,
attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of
the zipper foot.

Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the

8

extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base
of the zipper.

● When sewing, be sure that the needle

does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.

When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the

9

end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.

3

1 Pin on the right side
2 Needle drop point

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

Select stitch 3.

7

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 68).

Zipper Insertion 87

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

1

I

2

1

2

1

3

4

5

Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and

0

then baste the other side of the zipper to the
fabric.

1 Basting stitching

Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin

a

of zipper foot “I”.

If the presser foot holder was attached to the
right pin in step

6, change it to the left pin.

When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the

c

end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and
then raise the presser foot lever.

Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper,

d

and then continue sewing.

1 Pin on the left side
2 Needle drop point

Topstitch around the zipper.

b

Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper
opening and align the zipper teeth with the
side of the presser foot.

1 Right side of fabric
2 End of zipper opening
3 Reverse stitches
4 Beginning of stitching
5 Basting stitching

88

Zipper/piping Insertion

Note

1

1

CAUTION

A zipper and piping can be sewn in place.

Stitch

Stitch Name

Straight

stitch (left

needle

position)

There are many methods for inserting zippers and pipings. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a
piping are described below, with the optional adjustable zipper/piping foot.

Pattern

1

Key

Attaching zippers
Sewing concealed seams and
piping

Application

Inserting a centered zipper

Refer to step 1–4 of “Inserting a centered

1

zipper” (page 85).

Remove the presser foot and presser foot

2

holder (page 39) to attach the screw-on
optional adjustable zipper/piping foot.

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0

5

Left sewing position Right sewing position

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

Slide the presser foot over either the left or
right feed dog.

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

Presser

Foot

0.2–5.0

3

3
4

● Use a screw driver to securely tighten the

screw that holds the presser foot. If the
screw is loose, the needle may break and
cause injures.

Select stitch

Loosen the positioning screw on the back of
the presser foot.

1 Positioning screw

1

.

Change the needle position so that the needle

6

does not touch the presser foot.

For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width”
(page 55).

1 Needle drop point

● After adjusting the needle position,

slowly turn the balance wheel toward
you and check the needle does not touch
the presser-foot. If the needle hits the
presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.

Zipper/piping Insertion 89

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

1

3

2

4

CAUTION

1

2

3

Securely tighten the positioning screw with a

7

screwdriver.

1 Positioning screw

Inserting a piping

Place the piping between two fabrics inside

1

out, as shown below.

Topstitch around the zipper.

8

1 Fabric
2 Piping
3 Fabric

Refer to the steps of attaching the optional

2

adjustable zipper/piping foot on the previous
page.

Sew along the piping.

3

1 Stitching
2 Right side of fabric
3 Basting stitching
4 End of zipper opening

●

When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.

Remove the basting stitching.

9

After sewing, turn them over.

4

90

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape

J

1

2

J

Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.

Stitch

Stitch Name

Stretch

stitch

2-point

zigzag stitch

3-point

zigzag stitch

Elastic-

attaching

stitch

Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.

Pattern

5

9

10

28

Key

Stretch fabrics

–

Attaching elastic

Attaching elastic to stretch

–

fabrics

Application

Stretch stitching

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

1

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

1.0

(1/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

Elastic attaching

When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the

1

fabric.

Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points
to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

1.0

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

1.0

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

1.0

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

0.2–4.0

0.2–4.0

0.2–4.0

Presser

Foot

J

3

Select stitch 5.

2

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 68).

Sew the fabric without stretching it.

3

1 Elastic tape
2 Pin

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

2

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 91

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

CAUTION

Select a stitch.

3

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 68).

Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while

4

stretching the tape so that it is the same length
as the fabric.

While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin
nearest the front of the presser foot with your
right hand.

When sewing, be sure that the needle

●

does not touch any pins, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.

92

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching

1

The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.

Stitch Name

Zigzag stitch

Appliqué

stitch

Piecing
straight

stitch

Joining

stitch

Pattern

7

60

19

61

57

58

22

23

24

Stitch

Key

Application

Attaching appliqués (center
baseline/reverse stitching)

Appliqué quilting, free-motion

–

quilting, satin stitching

Attaching appliqués

Attaching appliqués and

–

binding

Piecing straight stitching (with a

–

seam allowance of 6.5 mm from
the right edge of the presser foot)

Piecing straight stitching (with a

–

seam allowance of 6.5 mm from
the left edge of the presser foot)

–

–

Patchwork stitching

–

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

1.5

(1/16)

5.5

(7/32)

1.5

(1/16)

4.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

0.5–5.0

(1/32–3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.2

(1/16)

1.6

(1/16)

1.6

(1/16)

1.2

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.2

(1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.6–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

Presser

Foot

3

J

Mock hand

quilting

stitch

Quilting

stippling

59

62

Straight stitch quilting that

–

looks hand quilting

– Stippling

Appliqué stitching

Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam

1

allowance of between 3 and 5 mm
(1/8 and 3/16 inch).

1 Seam allowance

0.0

7.0

(1/4)

2

(0)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

1.0–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

1.6

(1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Place a pattern made of thick paper on the
back of the appliqué, and then fold over the
seam allowance using an iron.

• Remove the thick paper after pressing the
seam allowance.

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 93

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

1

Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it

3

onto the fabric that it will be attached to.

1 Basting stitching

Attach the optional open toe foot.

4

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 37).

Select a stitch.

5

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 68).

Turn the balance wheel toward you, and then

6

begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué,
making sure that the needle drops just outside
of the appliqué.

When sewing around corners, stop the
machine with the needle in the fabric just
outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot
lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to
change the sewing direction.

94