BMW 3- & 5-Series
Service and Repair Manual
A K Legg LAE MIMI and Larry Warren
(1948-256-11AA3)
Models covered
3-Series (E30)
316 (83 to 88), 316i (88 to 91), 318i (83 to 91), 320i (87 to 91), 325i (87 to 91). Also Touring and Convertible versions of these models
5-Series (E28)
518 (81 to 85), 518i (85 to 88), 525i (81 to 88), 528i (81 to 88), 535i (85 to 88), M535i (85 to 88)
5-Series (E34)
518i (90 to 91), 520i (88 to 91), 525i (88 to 91), 530i (88 to 91), 535i (88 to 91)
Engines covered
1596 cc, 1766 cc, 1795 cc, 1990 cc, 2494 cc, 2788 cc, 2986 cc & 3430 cc
Does not cover Diesel, dohc or V8 engines, or four-wheel-drive models
© Haynes Publishing 1997 |
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A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series |
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All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.
ISBN 1 85960 236 3
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,Somerset
BA22 7JJ, England
Haynes Publishing
Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England
Haynes North America, Inc
861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA
Editions Haynes S.A.
147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France
Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB
Box 1504, 751 45 Uppsala, Sweden
Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR BMW
Introduction |
Page |
0•4 |
Safety First! |
Page |
0•6 |
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Anti-theft audio system |
Page |
0•7 |
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Instrument panel language display |
Page |
0•7 |
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Roadside Repairs
Jacking, towing and wheel changing |
Page |
0•8 |
Jump starting |
Page |
0•9 |
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Identifying leaks |
Page |
0•10 |
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ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
Routine Maintenance and Servicing |
Page |
1•1 |
Lubricants and fluids |
Page |
1•3 |
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Maintenance schedule |
Page |
1•4 |
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Weekly checks |
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1•7 |
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Every 6000 miles |
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1•11 |
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Every 12 000 miles |
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1•16 |
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Every 24 000 miles |
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1•23 |
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Every 60 000 miles |
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1•26 |
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Contents
REPAIRS & OVERHAUL
Engine and Associated Systems
In-car engine repair procedures |
Page |
2A•1 |
General engine overhaul procedures |
Page |
2B•1 |
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Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems |
Page |
3•1 |
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Fuel and exhaust systems |
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4•1 |
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Engine electrical systems |
Page |
5•1 |
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Engine management and emission control systems |
Page |
6•1 |
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Transmission
Manual transmission |
Page |
7A•1 |
Automatic transmission |
Page |
7B•1 |
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Clutch and driveline |
Page |
8•1 |
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Brakes
Braking system Page 9•1
Suspension
Suspension and steering systems Page 10•1
Body Equipment
Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1
Electrical
Body electrical systems Page 12•1
Wiring Diagrams
Page 12•10
REFERENCE
MOT Test Checks
Checks carried out from the driver’s seat |
Page |
REF•1 |
Checks carried out with the vehicle on the ground |
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REF•2 |
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Checks carried out with the vehicle raised |
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REF•3 |
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Checks carried out on your vehicle’s exhaust emission system |
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REF•4 |
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Tools and Working Facilities |
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REF•5 |
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General Repair Procedures |
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REF•8 |
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Fault Finding |
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REF•9 |
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Conversion factors |
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REF•17 |
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Automotive chemicals and lubricants |
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REF•18 |
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Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers |
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REF•19 |
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Glossary of Technical Terms |
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REF•20 |
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Index |
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REF•25 |
0•4 Introduction
Introduction to the BMW 3- and 5-Series
The E30 3-Series range first became available in the UK in March 1983, and continued in production until April 1991, when the revised E36 3-Series range (not covered by this manual) was introduced. Convertible and Touring (Estate) models were introduced for 1988, and these models have continued in E30 form to date.
The E28 5-Series models were introduced in October 1981, and were superseded in June 1988 by the revised E34 5-Series range, Touring versions of which became available from March 1992. Throughout this manual, E28 models are also referred to as “oldshape”, while E34 models are designated “new-shape”.
The models covered by this manual are equipped with single overhead cam in-line fourand six-cylinder engines. Early 316 and 518 models are fitted with carburettors, but all other models are fitted with fuel injection systems. Transmissions are a five-speed manual, or threeor four-speed automatic. The transmission is mounted to the back of the engine, and power is transmitted to the fully-independent rear axle through a twopiece propeller shaft. The final drive unit is bolted solidly to a frame crossmember, and drives the rear wheels through driveshafts
equipped with inner and outer constant velocity joints.
The front suspension is of MacPherson strut type, with the coil spring/shock absorber unit making up the upper suspension link. The rear suspension is made up of coil spring- over-shock absorber struts, or coil springs and conventional shock absorbers, depending on model.
The brakes are disc type at the front, with either drums or discs at the rear, depending on model. Servo assistance is standard on all models. Some later models are equipped with an Anti-lock Braking System (ABS).
All models are manufactured to fine limits, and live up to the BMW reputation of quality workmanship. Although many of the models covered by this manual appear complex at first sight, they should present no problems to the home mechanic.
Note for UK readers
The greater part of this manual was originally written in the USA. Some of the photographs used are of American-market models, but the procedures given are fully applicable to right-hand-drive models (or have been amended where necessary).
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. Technical writers who contributed to this project include Robert Maddox, Mark Ryan and Mike Stubblefield.
We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.
Project vehicles
The main project vehicle used in the preparation of this manual for the UK market was a 1988 BMW 318i with an M40/B18 engine.
BMW 320i Saloon (E30)
Introduction 0•5
BMW 325i Touring (E30)
BMW 325i Convertible (E30)
BMW 518i (E28)
BMW 535i (E34)
0•6 Safety First!
Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
•Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.
•Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.
Crushing
•When working a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.
Never venture under a car
is only supported
•Take care if torque nuts Initial loosening be done with
Fire
•Fuel is highly explosive.
•Don’t let fuel
•Do not smoke (including pilot vehicle being creating sparks (electrically or by
•Fuel vapour is work on the fuel an inspection pit
•Another cause overload or short repairing or
•Keep a fire suitable for use
Electric shock
• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near ignition system the engine running
the ignition switched on.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
•Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled Never run the engine in a
confined space such as a garage with the doors shut
•Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are cleaning solvents
your pocket.
• Air conditioning poisonous gas if (including a cigarette) burns on contact.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The
changes into a charred or sticky containing the acid. Once formed,
remains dangerous for years. If it the skin, it may be necessary to the limb concerned.
dealing with a vehicle which has
a fire, or with components salvaged a vehicle, wear protective gloves
them after use.
battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
topping-up or carrying the battery. hydrogen gas given off by the battery
explosive. Never cause a spark or naked light nearby. Be careful when and disconnecting battery
or jump leads.
can cause injury if they go off
. Take care when removing the wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can |
Warning: Never expose the hands, |
or swallowed. |
face or any other part of the body |
gaskets and in brake |
to injector spray; the fuel can |
When dealing with |
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal |
safest to assume |
results. |
Remember... |
A few tips |
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• Do use eye protection when using power |
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component |
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tools, and when working under the vehicle. |
which may be beyond your capability – get |
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• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to |
assistance. |
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• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take |
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protect your hands when necessary. |
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• Do get someone to check periodically |
unverified short cuts. |
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• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip |
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that all is well when working alone on the |
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vehicle. |
and cause injury. |
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• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well |
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around |
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out of the way of moving mechanical parts. |
where someone can trip over them. Mop |
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• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before |
up oil and fuel spills at once. |
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• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or |
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working on the vehicle – especially the |
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electrical system. |
near a vehicle being worked on. |
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• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking |
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equipment has a safe working load rating |
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adequate for the job. |
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Anti-theft audio system 0•7
Anti-theft audio system
General information
Some models are equipped with an audio system having an anti-theft feature that will render the stereo inoperative if stolen. If the power source to the stereo is cut, the stereo won’t work even if the power source is immediately re-connected. If your vehicle is equipped with this anti-theft system, do not disconnect the battery or remove the stereo unless you have the individual code number for the stereo.
Refer to the owner’s handbook supplied
with the vehicle for more complete information on this audio system and its antitheft feature.
Unlocking procedure
1Turn on the radio. The word “CODE” should appear on the display.
2Using the station preset selector buttons, enter the five-digit code. If you make a mistake when entering the code, continue the five-digit sequence anyway. If you hear a “beep,” however, stop immediately and
start the sequence over again. Note: You have three attempts to enter the correct code. If the correct code isn’t entered in three tries, you’ll have to wait one hour, with the radio on, before you enter the codes again.
5Once the code has been entered correctly, the word “CODE” should disappear from the display, and the radio should play (you’ll have to tune-in and enter your preset stations, however).
6If you have lost your code number, contact a BMW dealer service department.
Instrument panel language display
On some later models, disconnecting the |
ignition on (engine not running), press the trip |
battery may cause the instrument panel |
reset button until the panel displays the |
display to default to the German language |
desired language. There are eight languages |
(this does not usually apply to UK models). If |
available. If you wish to bypass a particular |
it is necessary to reset the correct language |
selection, release the reset button and press |
after the battery is reconnected, proceed as |
again - this will cause the display to advance |
follows. With all the doors shut and the |
to the next language. Once the correct |
language has been selected, continue holding the reset button until the display reads “I.O. Version 2.0”. Continue holding the button until it reads “H.P. Version 3.4”, then release the button.
0•8 Roadside Repairs
Jacking, towing and wheel changing
Jacking and wheel changing
The jack supplied with the vehicle should be used only for raising the vehicle when changing a tyre or placing axle stands under the frame.
Warning: Never crawl under the vehicle or start the engine when this jack is being used as the only means of support.
When changing a wheel, the vehicle should be on level ground, with the handbrake firmly applied, and the wheels chocked. Select reverse gear (manual transmission) or Park (automatic transmission). Prise off the hub cap (if equipped) using the tapered end of the wheel brace. Loosen the wheel bolts half a turn, leaving them in place until the wheel is raised off the ground.
Position the head of the jack under the side of the vehicle, making sure it engages with the
pocket made for this purpose (just behind the front wheel, or forward of the rear wheel). Engage the wheel brace handle and turn it clockwise until the wheel is raised off the ground. Unscrew the bolts, remove the wheel and fit the spare.
Refit the wheel bolts and tighten them finger-tight. Lower the vehicle by turning the wheel brace anti-clockwise. Remove the jack and tighten the bolts in a diagonal pattern to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. If a torque wrench is not available, have the torque checked by a BMW dealer or tyre fitting specialist as soon as possible. Refit the hubcap.
Towing
Vehicles with manual transmission can be towed with all four wheels on the ground, if necessary. Automatic transmission-equipped vehicles can only be towed with all four
wheels on the ground providing that the speed does not exceed 35 mph and the distance is not over 50 miles, otherwise transmission damage can result. For preference, regardless of transmission type, the vehicle should be towed with the driven (rear) wheels off the ground.
Proper towing equipment, specifically designed for the purpose, should be used, and should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle, not to the bumpers or bumper brackets. Sling-type towing equipment must not be used on these vehicles.
Safety is a major consideration while towing. The handbrake should be released, and the transmission should be in neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch turned to position “1”). Remember that power-assisted steering (where fitted) and the brake servo will not work with the engine switched off.
Roadside Repairs 0•9
Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct
whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:
1The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by
leaving the lights on.
2The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack
or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).
3The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).
1
the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery
When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:
Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.
Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.
Jump starting
Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.
If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.
Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).
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Connect the other end of the red lead to |
Connect one end of the black jump lead |
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booster battery |
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jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the |
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engine block, well away from the |
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battery, on the vehicle to be started. |
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Make sure that the jump leads will not |
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belts or other moving parts of the |
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engine. |
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Start the engine using the booster |
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idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.
0•10 Roadside Repairs
Identifying leaks
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.
Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.
The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil |
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Oil from filter |
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Gearbox oil |
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Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... |
...or from the base of the oil filter. |
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.
Antifreeze |
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Brake fluid |
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Power steering fluid |
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Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.
Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.
1•1
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Contents
Air filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Automatic transmission fluid and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Brake system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Differential lubricant change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Differential lubricant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Driveshaft gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Engine idle speed and CO level check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . 12 Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Engine timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP) system check . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Fuel system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
21 |
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Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
1 |
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Manual transmission lubricant change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
31 |
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Manual transmission lubricant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
16 |
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Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
7 |
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Routine maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
2 |
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Service light resetting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
34 |
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Spark plug check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
14 |
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Spark plug HT leads, distributor cap and rotor - check |
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and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
15 |
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Steering and suspension check |
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Throttle linkage - check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
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Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
5 |
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Tyre rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
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Tune-up general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
3 |
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Underbonnet hoses - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
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Valve clearances - check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
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Wiper blades - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
27 |
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Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for |
Fairly easy, suitable |
Fairly difficult, |
Difficult, suitable for |
Very difficult, |
novice with little |
for beginner with |
suitable for competent |
experienced DIY |
suitable for expert |
experience |
some experience |
DIY mechanic |
mechanic |
DIY or professional |
Specifications
Engine
Oil filter |
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M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion C121 |
M20 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion C160 |
M30 engines |
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3-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion C160 |
5-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion X115 |
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion X120 |
Valve clearances (intake and exhaust) |
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M10 engines |
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Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.20 mm |
Hot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.25 mm |
M20 engines |
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Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.25 mm |
Hot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.30 mm |
M30 engines |
|
Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.30 mm |
Hot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.35 mm |
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Hydraulic adjusters |
Cooling system
Antifreeze mixture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40% antifreeze/60% water
1•2 |
Servicing Specifications |
|
|
|
|
Fuel system |
|
|
Idle speed |
|
|
3-Series, E30 |
|
|
316 with M10/B18 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
850 ± 50 rpm |
|
316i with M40/B16 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
800 ± 40 rpm |
|
318i with M10/B18 engine (manual transmission) . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
850 ± 50 rpm |
|
318i with M10/B18 engine (automatic transmission) . . . . . . . . . . . |
750 ± 50 rpm |
|
318i with M40/B18 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
800 ± 40 rpm |
|
320i with M20/B20 engine (L-Jetronic) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
800 ± 50 rpm |
|
320i with M20/B20 engine (Motronic) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
760 ± 40 rpm |
|
325i with M20/B25 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
760 ± 40 rpm |
|
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”) |
|
|
518 and 518i with M10/B18 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
800 ± 50 rpm |
|
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
850 ± 50 rpm |
|
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”) |
|
|
518i with M40/B18 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
800 ± 40 rpm |
|
520i with M20/B20M engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
760 ± 40 rpm |
|
525i with M20/B25M engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
760 ± 40 rpm |
|
530i with M30/B30M engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
800 ± 50 rpm |
|
535i with M30/B35M engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
850 ± 50 rpm |
|
CO% at 3000 rpm |
|
|
3-Series, E30 |
|
|
316 with M10/B18 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.5 to 1.0 |
|
316i and 318i with M40/B16 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.7 ± 0.5 |
|
318i with M10/B18 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
1.0 maximum |
|
320i with M20/B20 engine (L-Jetronic) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
1.0 ± 0.5 |
|
320i with M20/B20 engine (Motronic) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.7 ± 0.5 |
|
325i with M20/B25 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
1.0 ± 0.5 |
|
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”) |
|
|
518 and 518i with M10/B18 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
1.0 maximum |
|
525i with M30/B25 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
1.0 ± 0.5 |
|
528i with M30/B28 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
1.5 maximum |
|
535i with M30/B34 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.3 to 1.5 |
|
M535i with M30/B34 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.3 to 1.5 |
|
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”) |
|
|
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.7 ± 0.5 |
|
Air filter element |
|
|
M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion W155 (round) or U504 (square) |
|
M20 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion U504 or U527 |
|
M30 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion U504 or U527 |
|
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion U527 |
|
Fuel filter (all fuel injection engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion L206 |
|
Ignition system |
|
|
Spark plug type |
|
|
M10, M20 and M30 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion N9YCC |
|
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion C9YCC |
|
Spark plug gap* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.8 mm |
|
Spark plug (HT) leads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion type not available |
|
* The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s spark plug gap recommendations.
Brakes
Disc brake pad thickness (minimum) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
2.0 mm |
Drum brake shoe lining thickness (minimum) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
2.0 mm |
Wiper blades
Windscreen |
|
3-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion X-5103 |
3-Series passenger side from 1991 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion X-5103 (20 inch) or Champion X-5303 (21 inch) |
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion X-4503 |
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion type not available |
Tailgate |
|
3-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion X-4503 |
5-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Champion type not available |
|
Servicing Specifications |
1•3 |
|||
|
|
|
|
|
|
Tyre pressures (cold) - bars (psi) |
Front |
Rear |
|
|
|
3-Series, E30 |
|
|
|
|
|
316 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
1.9 (28) |
2.1 (30) |
|
|
|
316i |
|
|
|
|
|
Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
2.0 (29) |
2.1 (30) |
|
|
|
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
2.0 (29) |
2.2 (32) |
|
|
|
318i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
1.8 (26) |
1.9 (28) |
|
|
|
320i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
1.9 (28) |
2.0 (29) |
|
|
|
325i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
2.2 (32) |
2.3 (33) |
|
|
|
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”) |
|
|
|
|
|
518 and 518i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
2.0 (29) |
2.0 (29) |
|
|
|
525i and 528i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
2.2 (32) |
2.2 (32) |
|
|
|
535i and M535i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
2.3 (33) |
2.5 (36) |
|
|
|
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”) |
|
|
|
|
|
518i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
2.0 (29) |
2.0 (29) |
|
|
|
520i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
2.2 (32) |
2.1 (30) |
|
|
|
525i, 530i and 535i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
2.0 (29) |
2.3 (33) |
|
|
|
Torque wrench settings |
Nm |
|
|
|
|
Automatic transmission sump bolts |
|
|
|
|
|
Three-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
8 to 9 |
|
|
|
|
Four-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
5 to 7 |
|
|
|
|
Spark plugs |
|
|
|
|
|
M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
20 to 30 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
Except M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
30 to 33 |
|
|
|
1 |
Oxygen sensor |
30 to 33 |
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
||
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Wheel bolts |
100 |
|
|
|
|
Lubricants and fluids |
|
|
|
|
|
Component or system |
Lubricant type/specification |
|
|
|
|
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Multigrade engine oil, viscositySAE 10W/40 to 20W/50, to API SG |
|
|
|
|
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors |
|
|
|
|
Manual transmission* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80 to API-GL4, or single-grade mineral-based |
||||
|
engine oil, viscosity SAE 20, 30 or 40 to API-SG |
|
|
|
|
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Dexron ll type ATF |
|
|
|
|
Final drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
BMW-approved hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE 90** |
|
|
|
|
Brake and clutch hydraulic systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Hydraulic brake fluid to SAE J 1703 or DOT 4 |
|
|
|
|
Power steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
Dexron ll type ATF |
|
|
|
|
*E34 520i & 525i with air conditioning, E34 530i & 535i - Dexron II type ATF)
**Only available in bulk; refer to your BMW dealer
Capacities*
Engine oil |
|
Manual transmission |
|
M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
4.0 litres |
ZF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
1.2 litres |
M20 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
4.3 litres |
Getrag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
1.0 to 1.5 litres |
M30 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
5.8 litres |
Automatic transmission (refill) |
|
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
4.0 litres |
3-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
2.0 litres |
Cooling system |
|
4-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
3.0 litres |
M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
7.0 litres |
Final drive capacity (drain and refill) |
|
M20 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
10.5 litres |
3-Series, E30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.9 litres |
M30 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
12.0 litres |
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
0.9 litres |
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
7.0 litres |
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
1.7 litres |
Fuel tank |
|
*All capacities approximate |
|
3-Series, E30 |
|
|
|
Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
55 litres (early), |
|
|
|
64 litres (later) |
|
|
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
63 litres (early), |
|
|
|
70 litres (later) |
|
|
5-Series |
|
|
|
E28 (“old-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
70 litres |
|
|
E34 (“new-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
81 litres |
|
|
1•4 Maintenance and servicing
Maintenance schedule
The following maintenance intervals are based on the assumption that the vehicle owner will be doing the maintenance or service work, as opposed to having a dealer service department do the work. Although the time/mileage intervals are loosely based on factory recommendations, most have been shortened to ensure, for example, that such items as lubricants and fluids are checked/changed at intervals that promote maximum engine/driveline service life. Also, subject to the preference of the individual owner interested in keeping his or her vehicle in peak condition at all times, and with the vehicle’s ultimate resale in mind, many of the maintenance procedures may be performed more often than recommended in the following schedule. We encourage such owner initiative.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced initially by a factoryauthorised dealer service department, to protect the factory warranty. In many cases, the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the owner (check with your dealer service department for more information).
Every 250 miles or weekly, whichever comes first
mCheck the engine oil level (Section 4)
mCheck the engine coolant level (Section 4)
mCheck the brake fluid level (Section 4)
mCheck the clutch fluid level (Section 4)
mCheck the washer fluid level (Section 4)
mCheck the tyres and tyre pressures (Section 5)
Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first
All items listed above, plus:
mChange the engine oil and oil filter (Section 6)
mCheck the power steering fluid level (Section 7)
mCheck the tyres, and rotate if necessary (Section 9)
mCheck the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 8)
mCheck the underbonnet hoses (Section 10)
mCheck/adjust the drivebelts (Section 11)
mCheck engine idle speed and CO (Section 12)
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first
All items listed above, plus:
mCheck/service the battery (Section 13)
mCheck the spark plugs (Section 14)
mCheck/renew the HT leads, distributor cap and rotor (Section 15)
mCheck/top-up the manual transmission lubricant (Section 16)
mCheck the differential oil level (Section 17)
mCheck the valve clearances, and adjust if necessary - does not apply to M40 engines (Section 18)
mCheck and lubricate the throttle linkage (Section 19)
mRenew the air filter (Section 20)
mCheck the fuel system (Section 21)
mInspect the cooling system (Section 22)
mInspect the exhaust system (Section 23)
mInspect the steering and suspension components (Section 24)
mCheck the driveshaft gaiter(s) (Section 25)
mInspect the brakes (Section 26)
mInspect/renew the windscreen wiper blades (Section 27)
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years, whichever comes first
All items listed above plus:
mChange the automatic transmission fluid and filter (Section 28)
mDrain, flush and refill the cooling system (Section 29)
mRenew the spark plugs (Section 14)
mCheck/renew the spark plug HT leads (Section 15)
mRenew the fuel filter (Section 30)
mChange the manual transmission lubricant (Section 31)
mChange the differential oil (Section 32)
mCheck the evaporative emissions system, where applicable (Section 33)
mReset the service indicator lights (Section 34)
mRenew brake fluid by bleeding (see Chapter 9)
mCheck the handbrake operation (see Chapter 9)
Every 60 000 miles
m Renew the timing belt (Section 35)
Maintenance and Servicing 1•5
Underbonnet view (left-hand side) of a
UK model 318i (1988)
1 |
Radiator |
|
2 |
Intake manifold |
|
3 |
Idle control valve |
|
4 |
Accelerator cable |
|
5 |
Diagnostic/service indicator resetting |
|
|
socket |
|
6 |
Fuse/relay box |
|
7 |
Brake hydraulic fluid reservoir |
|
8 |
Airflow meter |
|
9 |
Air cleaner unit |
|
10 |
Radiator filler cap |
|
11 |
Radiator top hose |
1 |
12 |
Oil filter housing |
|
|
|
|
Underbonnet view (right-hand side) of a
UK model 318i (1988)
1Oil filler cap
2Valve cover
3Engine oil filler dipstick
4Viscous cooling fan
5Distributor cap cover
6Bottom hose
7Windscreen washer fluid reservoir
8Ignition coil
9Clutch hydraulic fluid reservoir
10Battery
1•6 Maintenance and Servicing
Front underbody view of a UK model 318i (1988)
Radiator
Engine oil drain plug
Front suspension control arm (left-hand side)
Front anti-roll bar Clutch slave cylinder Transmission Exhaust downpipe
Front suspension control arm (right-hand side)
Typical rear underside components
1Exhaust system
2Differential fill/check plug
3Driveshaft boot
4Fuel tank filler tube
5Differential drain plug
6Rear brake
7Rear shock absorber
Routine Maintenance 1•7
1 Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his or her vehicle with the goals of maximum performance, economy, safety and reliability in mind. Included is a master maintenance schedule, followed by procedures dealing specifically with each item on the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of various components. Servicing the vehicle, in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the step-by-step procedures, will result in a planned maintenance programme that should produce a long and reliable service life. Keep in mind that it is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at specified intervals, will not produce the same results.
2 Routine maintenance
As you service the vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should - be grouped together, because of the nature of the particular procedure you’re performing, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for chassis lubrication, you should inspect the exhaust, suspension, steering and fuel
systems while you’re under the vehicle. When the wheels are removed for other work, it makes good sense to check the brakes, since the wheels are already removed. Finally, let’s suppose you have to borrow a torque wrench. Even if you only need it to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well check the torque of as many critical nuts and bolts as time allows.
The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the procedures you’re planning to do, then gather up all the parts and tools needed. If it looks like you might run into problems during a particular job, seek advice from a mechanic or an experienced do-it-yourselfer.
3Engine “tune-up” - general information
The term “tune-up” is used in this manual to represent a combination of individual operations rather than one specific procedure.
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised.
More likely than not, however, there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to a lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, an engine tune-up will be needed outside of the regular maintenance intervals.
The first step in any tune-up or diagnostic procedure to help correct a poor-running engine is a cylinder compression check. A compression check (see Chapter 2B) will help determine the condition of internal engine components, and should be used as a guide for tune-up and repair procedures. If, for instance, a compression check indicates serious internal engine wear, a conventional tune-up will not improve the performance of the engine, and would be a waste of time and money. Because of its importance, the compression check should be done by someone with the right equipment, and the knowledge to use it properly.
The following procedures are those most often needed to bring a generally poorrunning engine back into a proper state of tune.
Minor tune-up
Check all engine-related fluids (Section 4) |
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Check all underbonnet hoses (Section 10) |
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Check and adjust the drivebelts (Sec- |
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tion 11) |
1 |
Clean, inspect and test the battery (Sec- |
tion 13)
Renew the spark plugs (Section 14) Inspect the spark plug HT leads, distributor cap and rotor (Section 15)
Check the air filter (Section 20)
Check the cooling system (Section 22)
Major tune-up
All items listed under minor tune-up, plus . . .
Check the ignition system (see Chapter 5) Check the charging system (see Chapter 5) Check the fuel system (see Chapter 4) Renew the spark plug HT leads, distributor cap and rotor (Section 15)
Weekly checks
4 Fluid level checks |
1 |
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Note: The following are fluid level checks to be done on a 250-mile or weekly basis. Additional fluid level checks can be found in specific maintenance procedures which follow. Regardless of intervals, be alert to fluid leaks under the vehicle, which would indicate a fault to be corrected immediately.
1 Fluids are an essential part of the lubrication, cooling, brake and windscreen washer systems. Because the fluids gradually become depleted and/or contaminated during normal operation of the vehicle, they must be periodically replenished. See “Lubricants and fluids” at the beginning of this Chapter before adding fluid to any of the following components. Note: The vehicle must be on level ground when any fluid levels are checked.
Engine oil
2Engine oil is checked with a dipstick, which is located on the side of the engine (refer to the underbonnet illustrations in this Chapter for dipstick location). The dipstick extends through a metal tube down into the sump.
3The engine oil should be checked before
the vehicle has been driven, or at least 15 minutes after the engine has been shut off.
If the oil is checked |
immediately after driving the |
vehicle, some of the oil will |
remain in the upper part of |
the engine, resulting in an inaccurate |
reading on the dipstick. |
4 Pull the dipstick out of the tube, and wipe all of the oil away from the end with a clean rag or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick all the way back into the tube, and pull it out again. Note the oil at the end of the dipstick. At its highest point, the oil should be between
the two notches or marks (see illustration). 5 It takes one litre of oil to raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark on the dipstick. Do not allow the level to drop below the lower mark, or oil starvation may cause
4.4 The oil level should be kept between the two marks, preferably at or near the upper one - if it isn’t, add enough oil to bring the level to the upper mark
1•8 Weekly Checks
4.6a The threaded oil filler cap is located in the valve cover - always make sure the area around the opening is clean before unscrewing the cap
engine damage. Conversely, overfilling the engine (adding oil above the upper mark) may cause oil-fouled spark plugs, oil leaks, or oil seal failures.
6To add oil, remove the filler cap located on the valve cover (see illustrations). After adding oil, wait a few minutes to allow the level to stabilise, then pull the dipstick out and check the level again. Add more oil if required. Refit the filler cap, tightening it by hand only.
7Checking the oil level is an important preventive maintenance step. A consistently low oil level indicates oil leakage through damaged seals or defective gaskets, or oil burning (internal leakage past worn rings or valve guides). The condition of the oil should also be noted. If the oil looks milky in colour or has water droplets in it, the cylinder head gasket may be blown, or the head or block may be cracked. The engine should be repaired immediately. Whenever you check the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the dipstick, the oil should be changed (see Section 6).
Engine coolant
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the vehicle
4.6b Topping-up the engine oil |
4.9a On some models, the expansion tank |
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(coolant reservoir) is mounted on the |
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radiator - make sure the level is kept at or |
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near the FULL mark (arrowed) |
paintwork. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in puddles on the floor; children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, and may drink it. Check with local authorities about disposing of used antifreeze. Local collection centres may exist, to see that antifreeze is disposed of safely.
8 All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with a pressurised coolant recovery system. On most models, a white plastic expansion tank (or coolant reservoir) located in the engine compartment is connected by a hose to the radiator. As the engine heats up during operation, the expanding coolant fills the tank. As the engine cools, the coolant is automatically drawn back into the cooling system, to maintain the correct level.
9 The coolant level in the reservoir (see illustrations) should be checked regularly. Add a 40%/60% mixture of ethylene glycolbased antifreeze to water (see illustration).
Warning: Do not remove the expansion tank cap or radiator cap to check the coolant level, unless the engine is completely
cold! The level in the reservoir varies with the temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be
above the LOW mark on the reservoir. Once the engine has warmed up, the level should be at or near the FULL mark. If it isn’t, allow the engine to cool, then remove the cap from the reservoir.
10Drive the vehicle and recheck the coolant level. If only a small amount of coolant is required to bring the system up to the proper level, plain water can be used. However, repeated additions of water will dilute the antifreeze. In order to maintain the proper ratio of antifreeze and water, always top-up the coolant level with the correct mixture.
11If the coolant level drops consistently, there must be a leak in the system. Inspect the radiator, hoses, filler cap, drain plugs and water pump (see Section 29). If no leaks are noted, have the expansion tank cap or radiator cap pressure-tested by a BMW dealer.
12If you have to remove the cap, wait until the engine has cooled completely, then wrap a thick cloth around the cap and turn it to the first stop. If coolant or steam escapes, let the engine cool down longer, then remove the cap.
13Check the condition of the coolant as well. It should be relatively clear. If it’s brown or rust-coloured, the system should be drained, flushed and refilled. Even if the coolant appears to be normal, the corrosion
4.9b On other models, the expansion tank |
4.9c On some 5-Series models, the |
4.9d Adding antifreeze mixture |
(coolant reservoir) is located on the side of |
expansion tank (coolant reservoir) is |
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the engine compartment - remove the cap |
located on the bulkhead |
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to add coolant |
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Weekly Checks 1•9
4.15 Adding hydraulic fluid to the clutch fluid reservoir
inhibitors wear out, so it must be renewed at the specified intervals.
Brake and clutch fluid
Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling or pouring it. Do
not use brake fluid that has been standing open or is more than one year old. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of brake effectiveness. Use only the specified type of brake fluid. Mixing different types (such as DOT 3 or 4 and DOT 5) can cause brake failure.
14The brake master cylinder is mounted at the left rear corner of the engine compartment. The clutch fluid reservoir (manual transmission models) is mounted on the right-hand side.
15To check the clutch fluid level, observe the level through the translucent reservoir. The level should be at or near the step moulded into the reservoir. If the level is low, remove the reservoir cap to add the specified fluid (see illustration).
16The brake fluid level is checked by looking through the plastic reservoir mounted on the master cylinder (see illustration). The fluid level should be between the MAX and MIN lines on the reservoir. If the fluid level is low, first wipe the top of the reservoir and the cap with a clean rag, to prevent contamination of the system as the cap is unscrewed. Top-up with the recommended brake fluid, but do not overfill.
17While the reservoir cap is off, check the master cylinder reservoir for contamination. If rust deposits, dirt particles or water droplets are present, the system should be drained and refilled.
18After filling the reservoir to the proper level, make sure the cap is seated correctly, to prevent fluid leakage and/or contamination.
19The fluid level in the master cylinder will drop slightly as the disc brake pads wear. There is no need to top up to compensate for this fall provided that the level stays above the MIN line; the level will rise again when new pads are fitted. A very low level may indicate
4.16 The brake fluid level should be kept above the MIN mark on the translucent reservoir - unscrew the cap to add fluid
worn brake pads. Check for wear (see Section 26).
20If the brake fluid level drops consistently, check the entire system for leaks immediately. Examine all brake lines, hoses and connections, along with the calipers, wheel cylinders and master cylinder (see Section 26).
21When checking the fluid level, if you discover one or both reservoirs empty or nearly empty, the brake or clutch hydraulic system should be checked for leaks and bled (see Chapters 8 and 9).
Windscreen washer fluid
22Fluid for the windscreen washer system is stored in a plastic reservoir in the engine compartment (see illustration).
23In milder climates, plain water can be used in the reservoir, but it should be kept no more than two-thirds full, to allow for expansion if the water freezes. In colder climates, use windscreen washer system antifreeze, available at any car accessory shop, to lower the freezing point of the fluid. This comes in concentrated or pre-mixed form. If you purchase concentrated antifreeze, mix the antifreeze with water in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions on the container.
Caution: Do not use cooling system antifreeze - it will damage the vehicle’s paint.
5.2 Use a tyre tread depth indicator to monitor tyre wear - they are available at car accessory shops and service stations, and cost very little
is located in the right front corner of the engine compartment on most models
5 Tyre and tyre pressure |
1 |
checks |
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1 Periodic inspection of the tyres may save you the inconvenience of being stranded with
a flat tyre. It can also provide you with vital 1 information regarding possible problems in
the steering and suspension systems before major damage occurs.
2 Tyres are equipped with bands that will appear when tread depth reaches 1.6 mm, at which time the tyres can be considered worn out. This represents the legal minimum tread depth; most authorities recommend renewing any tyre on which the tread depth is 2 mm or less. Tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator (see illustration).
3 Note any abnormal tyre wear (see illustration overleaf). Tread pattern irregularities such as cupping, flat spots and more wear on one side than the other are indications of front end alignment and/or wheel balance problems. If any of these conditions are noted, take the vehicle to a tyre specialist to correct the problem.
4 Look closely for cuts, punctures and embedded nails or tacks. Sometimes, after a nail has embedded itself in the tread, a tyre will hold air pressure for a short time, or may
5.4a If a slow puncture is suspected, check the valve core first to make sure it’s tight
1•10 Weekly Checks
leak down very slowly. If a slow puncture persists, check the valve stem core to make sure it is tight (see illustration). Examine the tread for an object that may have embedded itself in the tyre, or for a previous repair that may have begun to leak. If a puncture is suspected, it can be easily verified by spraying a solution of soapy water onto the puncture (see illustration). The soapy solution will bubble if there is a leak. Unless the puncture is unusually large, a tyre specialist can usually repair the tyre.
5Carefully inspect the inner sidewall of each tyre for evidence of brake fluid leakage. If you see any, inspect the brakes immediately.
6Correct air pressure adds miles to the life span of the tyres, improves fuel economy, and enhances overall ride quality. A tyre pressure gauge is essential.
Keep an accurate gauge in
the glove compartment. The 
pressure gauges attached to the nozzles of air hoses at service stations are often inaccurate.
7 Always check the tyre pressures when the tyres are cold (ie before driving the vehicle).
5.4b If the valve core is tight, raise the vehicle, and spray a soapy water solution onto the tread as the tyre is turned slowly - leaks will cause small bubbles to appear
Checking the pressures when the tyres are warm, or hot, will result in higher readings, due to heat expansion. On no account should air be let out of the tyres in this case, or the tyres will effectively be under-inflated when cold.
8 Unscrew the valve cap protruding from the wheel or hubcap, and push the gauge firmly onto the valve stem (see illustration). Note the reading on the gauge, and compare the
5.8 To extend the life of the tyres, check the air pressure at least once a week with an accurate gauge (don’t forget the spare!)
figure to the recommended tyre pressures shown in the Specifications listed at the beginning of this Chapter. Be sure to refit the valve cap to keep dirt and moisture out of the valve stem mechanism. Check all four tyres and, if necessary, add enough air to bring them to the recommended pressure.
9 Don’t forget to keep the spare tyre inflated to the specified pressure.
Tyre tread wear patterns
Shoulder Wear
Underinflation (wear on both sides)
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!
Centre Wear
Overinflation
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures
If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.
Uneven Wear
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.
Every 6000 miles 1•11
Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first
6 Engine oil and filter change 1
Warning: Prolonged skin contact with used engine oil is hazardous. Use a barrier cream
and wear gloves during this procedure. Change out of oil-soaked clothing immediately.
Frequent oil changes are the
most important preventive
maintenance procedures that can be done by the home
mechanic. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
1 Make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you begin this procedure (see illustration). You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy for mopping up oil spills
6.1 These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter
1Drain pan - It should be fairly shallow in depth, but wide enough to prevent spills
2Rubber gloves - When removing the drain plug and filter, you will get oil on your hands (the gloves will prevent burns)
3Socket bar - Sometimes the oil drain plug is tight, and a long bar is needed to loosen it. The correct-size ring spanner may work just as well
4Socket - To be used with the bar or a ratchet (must be the correct size to fit the drain plug - six-point preferred)
5Filter spanner - This is a metal band-type spanner, which requires clearance around the filter to be effective. This tool is not required on all engines.
6Filter spanner - This type fits on the bottom of the filter and can be turned with a ratchet or breaker bar (different-size spanners are available for different types of filters) This tool is not required on all engines.
2 Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature - oil and sludge will flow more easily when warm. If new oil, a filter or tools are needed, use the vehicle to go and get them, thus warming up the engine oil at the same time.
3Park on a level surface, and switch off the engine when it’s warmed up. Remove the oil filler cap from the valve cover.
4Access to the oil drain plug and filter will be improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle stands.
Warning: DO NOT work under a vehicle supported only by a hydraulic or scissors-type jack - always use axle stands!
5If you haven’t changed the oil on this vehicle before, get under it, and locate the drain plug and the oil filter. Note that on some engines, the oil filter is located on the top lefthand side of the engine. The exhaust components will be hot as you work, so note how they are routed to avoid touching them.
6Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust components, position a drain pan under the plug in the bottom of the engine.
7Clean the area around the plug, then remove the plug (see illustration). It’s a good idea to wear a rubber glove while unscrewing the plug the final few turns, to avoid being scalded by hot oil. Hold the drain plug against
6.7 Using a ring spanner to remove the oil drain plug
6.16 Lubricate the oil filter sealing ring with clean engine oil before refitting the filter on the engine
the threads as you unscrew it, then pull it away from the drain hole suddenly. This will place your arm out of the way of the hot oil, as well as reducing the chances of dropping the drain plug into the drain pan.
8It may be necessary to move the drain pan slightly as oil flow slows to a trickle. Inspect the old oil for the presence of metal particles, which could give early warning of engine wear.
9After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag. Any small metal particles clinging to the plug would immediately contaminate the new oil.
10Refit the plug and tighten it securely. Use a new washer if necessary.
11Move the drain pan into position under the oil filter.
Canister-type oil filter
12 Loosen the spin-off type oil filter by |
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turning it anti-clockwise with a filter spanner. |
1 |
Any standard filter spanner will work. |
13Sometimes the spin-off type oil filter is screwed on so tightly that it can’t be easily loosened. If it is, punch a metal bar or long screwdriver directly through it, and use it as a T-bar to turn the filter. Be prepared for oil to spurt out of the canister as it’s punctured.
14Once the filter is loose, use your hands to unscrew it from the block. Just as the filter is detached from the block, immediately tilt the open end up to prevent oil inside the filter from spilling out.
15Using a clean rag, wipe off the mounting surface on the block. Also, make sure that none of the old sealing ring remains stuck to the mounting surface. It can be removed with a scraper if necessary.
16Compare the old filter with the new one, to make sure they are the same type. Smear some engine oil on the rubber sealing ring of the new filter, and screw it into place (see illustration). Overtightening the filter will damage the sealing ring, so don’t use a filter spanner. Most filter manufacturers recommend tightening the filter by hand only. Normally, they should be tightened threequarters of a turn after the sealing ring contacts the block, but be sure to follow the directions on the filter or container.
6.17a Unscrew the bolt . . .
1•12 Every 6000 miles
Cartridge-type oil filter
17 Some models are equipped with a cartridge-type oil filter. Unscrew the bolt, remove the cover, and lift the filter out (see illustrations).
18Compare the new cartridge with the old one, to make sure they are the same type, then lower it into the housing.
19Using a clean rag, wipe off the mounting surface of the housing and cover. If necessary, renew the rubber O-ring (see illustration). Smear some clean oil on the O-ring and refit the cover and bolt. Tighten the bolt securely.
All models
20Remove all tools and materials from under the vehicle, being careful not to spill the oil from the drain pan, then lower the vehicle.
21Add new oil to the engine through the oil filler cap in the valve cover. Use a funnel to prevent oil from spilling onto the top of the engine. Pour the specified quantity of fresh oil into the engine. Wait a few minutes to allow the oil to drain into the sump, then check the level on the dipstick (see Section 4 if necessary). If the oil level is correct, refit the filler cap.
22Start the engine and run it for about a minute. The oil pressure warning light may take a few seconds to go out while the new filter fills with oil; don’t rev the engine while the light is on. While the engine is running, look under the vehicle, and check for leaks at the sump drain plug and around the oil filter. If
either one is leaking, stop the engine and tighten the plug or filter slightly.
23Wait a few minutes, then recheck the level on the dipstick. Add oil as necessary.
24During the first few days after an oil change, make it a point to check frequently for leaks and proper oil level.
25The old oil drained from the engine cannot be re-used in its present state, and should be discarded. Oil reclamation centres and some service stations will accept the oil, which can be recycled. After the oil has cooled, it can be transferred into a container for transport to a disposal site.
Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.
7 Power steering fluid level |
1 |
check |
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1 Check the power steering fluid level periodically to avoid steering system problems, such as damage to the pump. Proceed as follows.
6.19 Renewing the rubber O-ring in the cover
Caution: Do not hold the steering wheel against either stop (full-left or full-right lock) for more than five seconds. If you do, the power steering pump could be damaged.
2On some models, the power steering fluid reservoir is located on the left side of the engine compartment, and has a twist-off cap with an integral fluid level dipstick (see illustration). Other models use a hydraulic power steering and brake servo system which combines the fluid in one reservoir, located at the right rear corner of the engine compartment.
3Park the vehicle on level ground, and apply the handbrake.
4On models with a fluid dipstick, run the engine until it has reached normal operating temperature. With the engine at idle, turn the steering wheel back and forth several times to get any air out of the steering system. Switch off the engine, remove the cap by turning it anti-clockwise, wipe the dipstick clean, and refit the cap. Remove the cap again, and note the fluid level. It must be between the two lines (see illustration).
5On hydraulic servo models, pump the brake pedal about ten times or until the pedal is firm. Remove the nut, lift the cap off, and make sure the fluid is within 6.0 mm of the top of the reservoir.
6Add small amounts of fluid until the level is correct (see illustration).
7.2 The power steering fluid reservoir |
7.4 The power steering fluid level should |
7.6 Adding fluid to the power steering |
(arrowed) is located on the left side of the |
be kept between the two arrows near the |
reservoir |
engine compartment |
upper step on the dipstick |
|
Every 6000 miles 1•13
8.5 The automatic transmission fluid dipstick (arrowed) is located near the bulkhead on the left side of the engine compartment
Caution: Do not overfill the reservoir. If too much fluid is added, remove the excess with a clean syringe. Refit the cap.
7If frequent topping-up is needed, check the power steering hoses and connections for leaks and wear (see Section 10).
8Check the condition and tension of the drivebelt (see Section 11).
8Automatic transmission fluid 1 level check
Caution: The use of transmission fluid other than the type listed in this Chapter’s Specifications could result in transmission malfunctions or failure.
1The automatic transmission fluid should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while overfilling can cause foaming and loss of fluid. Either condition can cause transmission damage.
2Since transmission fluid expands as it heats up, the fluid level should only be checked when the transmission is warm (at normal operating temperature). If the vehicle has just been driven over 20 miles (32 km), the transmission can be considered warm. You can also check the fluid level when the transmission is cold. If the vehicle has not been driven for over five hours and the fluid is about room temperature (20°C), the transmission is cold. However, the fluid level is normally checked with the transmission warm, to ensure accurate results.
Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven for a long time at high speed or in city traffic, in hot weather, or if it has been pulling
a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading cannot be obtained. Allow the transmission to cool down for about 30 minutes.
3 Immediately after driving the vehicle, park it on a level surface, apply the handbrake and start the engine. While the engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and move the
8.6 With the fluid hot, the level should be kept between the two dipstick notches, preferably near the upper one
selector lever through all the gear ranges, beginning and ending in Park.
4The automatic transmission dipstick tube is located in the left rear corner of the engine compartment.
5With the engine still idling, pull the dipstick out of the tube (see illustration), wipe it off with a clean rag, push it all the way back into the tube and withdraw it again, then note the fluid level.
6The level should be between the two marks (see illustration). If the level is low, add the specified automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube - use a clean funnel, preferably equipped with a fine mesh filter, to prevent spills.
Caution: Be careful not to introduce dirt into the transmission when topping up.
7Add just enough of the recommended fluid to fill the transmission to the proper level. It takes about half a litre to raise the level from the low mark to the high mark when the fluid is hot, so add the fluid a little at a time, and keep checking the level until it’s correct.
8The condition of the fluid should also be checked along with the level. If the fluid is black or a dark reddish-brown colour, or if it smells burned, it should be changed (see Section 28). If you are in doubt about its condition, purchase some new fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.
9 Tyre rotation |
1 |
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1The tyres can be rotated at the specified intervals, or whenever uneven wear is noticed. However, bear in mind that if rotation succeeds in making all the tyres wear evenly, you will eventually have to renew all four at once. Since the vehicle will be raised and the wheels removed anyway, check the brakes also (see Section 26). Note: Even if you don’t rotate the tyres, at least check the wheel bolt tightness.
2It is recommended that the tyres be rotated
9.2 The tyre rotation pattern for these models
in a specific pattern (see illustration) so that their direction of rotation remains the same.
3 Refer to the information in “Jacking and towing” at the front of this manual for the proper procedure to follow when raising the vehicle and changing a tyre.
4 The vehicle must be raised on a hoist or 1 supported on axle stands to get all four tyres
off the ground. Make sure the vehicle is safely supported!
5 After the rotation procedure is finished, check and adjust the tyre pressures as necessary, and be sure to check the wheel bolt tightness.
10 Underbonnet hose check |
3 |
and renewal |
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Warning: Renewal of air conditioning hoses must be left to a dealer service department or air conditioning specialist having
the equipment to depressurise the system safely. Never disconnect air conditioning hoses or components until the system has been depressurised.
General
1High temperatures under the bonnet can cause deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for various systems. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening, and leaks.
2Information specific to the cooling system can be found in Section 22, while the braking system is covered in Section 26.
3Most (but not all) hoses are secured with clamps. Where clamps are used, check to be sure they haven’t lost their tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren’t used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak.
Vacuum hoses
4 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be colour-coded or identified by coloured
1•14 Every 6000 miles
stripes moulded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When fitting new hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. 5 Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct refitting.
6When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the connections for cracks which could cause leakage.
7A small piece of vacuum hose can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.
Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be careful not to touch moving engine components such as the drivebelt, cooling fan, etc.
Fuel hoses
Warning: There are certain precautions which must be taken when servicing or inspecting fuel system components. Work in a
well-ventilated area, and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop up any spills immediately, and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses, and have a fire extinguisher on hand.
8 The fuel hoses are usually under pressure, so if any fuel hoses are to be disconnected, be prepared to catch spilled fuel.
Warning: On vehicles equipped with fuel injection, you must depressurise the fuel system before servicing the fuel hoses. Refer to Chapter 4 for details.
9Check all rubber fuel hoses for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends, and just before connectors, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel pump or fuel filter, for example.
10Only high-quality fuel hose should be used. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum hose, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel hoses.
11Band-type clamps are commonly used on fuel hoses. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be “sprung” during removal. Renew all band-type clamps with screw clamps whenever a hose is renewed.
Metal lines
12 Sections of metal line are often used between the fuel pump and fuel injection system. Check carefully to make sure the line isn’t bent, crimped or cracked.
13If a section of metal line must be renewed, use seamless steel tubing only, since copper and aluminium tubing do not have the strength necessary to withstand the vibration caused by the engine.
14Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and brake proportioning or ABS unit (if used) for cracks in the lines and loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate thorough inspection of the braking system.
Power steering hoses
15 Check the power steering hoses for leaks, loose connections and worn clamps. Tighten loose connections. Worn clamps or leaky hoses should be renewed.
11 Drivebelt check, adjustment |
1 |
and renewal |
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Check
1 The drivebelts, sometimes called V-belts or simply “fan” belts, are located at the front of the engine, and play an important role in the overall operation of the vehicle and its
components. Due to their function and material make-up, the belts are prone to failure after a period of time, and should be inspected and adjusted periodically to prevent major engine damage.
2The number of belts used on a particular vehicle depends on the accessories fitted. Drivebelts are used to turn the alternator, power steering pump, water pump, and air conditioning compressor. Depending on the pulley arrangement, a single belt may be used to drive more than one of these components.
3With the engine switched off, open the bonnet and locate the various belts at the front of the engine. Using your fingers (and a torch, if necessary), move along the belts, checking for cracks and separation of the belt plies. Also check for fraying and glazing, which gives the belt a shiny appearance (see illustration). Both sides of the belts should be inspected, which means you will have to twist each belt to check the underside.
4The tension of each belt is checked by pushing firmly with your thumb and seeing how much the belt moves (deflects). Measure the deflection with a ruler (see illustration). A good rule of thumb is that the belt should deflect 6 mm if the distance from pulley centre-to-pulley centre is between 180 and
280mm. The belt should deflect 13 mm if the distance from pulley centre-to-pulley centre is between 300 and 400 mm.
Adjustment
5If it is necessary to adjust the belt tension, either to make the belt tighter or looser, it is done by moving a belt-driven accessory on its bracket. (When the same belt drives more than one accessory, normally only one accessory is moved when making adjustment.)
6For each component, there will be an adjusting bolt and a pivot bolt. Both bolts must be loosened slightly to enable you to move the component. On some components, the drivebelt tension can be adjusted by turning an adjusting bolt after loosening the lockbolt (see illustration).
7After the two bolts have been loosened,
11.3 Here are some of the more common |
11.4 Measuring drivebelt deflection with a |
11.6 Loosen the nut on the other end of |
problems associated with drivebelts |
straightedge and ruler |
the adjuster bolt (arrowed) and turn the |
(check the belts very carefully to prevent |
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bolt to increase or decrease tension on the |
an untimely breakdown) |
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drivebelt |
Every 6000 miles 1•15
12.3 Idle speed adjustment screw on the
2B4 carburettor (shown with the carburettor removed)
move the component away from the engine to tighten the belt, or towards the engine to loosen the belt. Hold the accessory in position, and check the belt tension. If it is correct, tighten the two bolts until just tight, then recheck the tension. If the tension is still correct, tighten the bolts.
8 It will often be necessary to use some sort of lever to move the accessory while the belt is adjusted. If this must be done to gain the proper leverage, be very careful not to damage the component being moved, or the part being prised against.
Renewal
9 To renew a belt, follow the instructions above for adjustment, but remove the belt from the pulleys.
10In some cases, you will have to remove more than one belt, because of their arrangement on the front of the engine. Because of this, and the fact that belts will tend to fail at the same time, it is wise to renew all belts together. Mark each belt and its appropriate pulley groove, so all renewed belts can be fitted in their proper positions.
11It is a good idea to take the old belts with you when buying new ones, in order to make a direct comparison for length, width and design.
12Recheck the tension of new belts after a few hundred miles.
12 Engine idle speed and CO |
4 |
level check and adjustment |
Note: The engine should be at normal operating temperature, with correct ignition timing and valve clearances (where adjustable). The air filter should be in good condition, and all electrical components (including the air conditioning, where fitted) should be switched off.
2B4 carburettor
Carburettor
1 Connect a tachometer and exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) to the engine.
2Start the engine and allow it to idle.
3Check that the idle speed is as given in the Specifications. Adjustment of the idle speed is only possible on the 2B4 carburettor. Turn the carburettor idle speed adjustment screw until the engine idles at the correct speed (see illustration).
4If the idle speed is low on the 2BE carburettor, and all wiring to the carburettor is in good condition, it is possible to connect a resistance into the control circuit. This should be carried out by your BMW dealer.
5Check that the CO reading is as given in the Specifications. If not, turn the carburettor idle mixture adjustment screw until the mixture is correct (see illustration).
L-Jetronic
6Connect a tachometer and CO meter to the engine. BMW technicians use a special CO tester with a probe connected into the exhaust manifold, but the normal type of tester which locates in the exhaust tailpipe can be used instead. Note however that on models with a catalytic converter, meaningful CO readings will not be obtained at the tailpipe.
7Start the engine and allow it to idle.
8Check that the idle speed is as given in Specifications. If not, remove the tamperproof cap from the throttle housing, and turn the idle adjustment screw until the speed is correct.
9Check that the CO reading is as given in the Specifications. The mixture control screw is located on the airflow meter, and a special
from the airflow meter
tool (BMW number 13 1 060) may be required to make the adjustment.
Motronic
10 Connect a tachometer and CO meter to the engine. BMW technicians use a special CO tester with a probe connected into the
exhaust manifold, but the normal type of 1 tester which locates in the exhaust tailpipe
may be used instead. Note however that on models with a catalytic converter, meaningful CO readings will not be obtained at the tailpipe.
11It is not possible to adjust the idle speed manually, as the idle air stabiliser valve is activated by the electronic control unit. If the idle speed is not within the specified range with the engine at normal operating temperature, check for a leak in the air inlet system, and also check the operation of the idle air stabiliser valve (see Chapter 4).
12Check that the CO reading is as given in the Specifications. If adjustment is required, prise out the tamperproof plug from the airflow meter, and turn the adjustment screw to set the CO content (on some models, an Allen key will be required). Fit a new tamperproof plug on completion (see illustrations).
system
1•16 Every 12 000 miles
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first
13 Battery check, maintenance |
2 |
and charging |
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Check and maintenance
Warning: Certain precautions must be followed when checking and servicing the battery. Hydrogen gas, which is highly
flammable, is always present in the battery cells, so keep lighted tobacco and all other flames and sparks away from it. The electrolyte inside the battery is actually dilute sulphuric acid, which will cause injury if splashed on your skin or in your
eyes. It will also ruin clothes and painted surfaces. When disconnecting the battery cables, always detach the negative cable first, and connect it last!
1 Battery maintenance is an important procedure, which will help ensure that you are not stranded because of a dead battery. Several tools are required for this procedure
(see illustration).
2Before servicing the battery, always switch off the engine and all accessories, and disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is equipped with an antitheft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the wrong language appears on the instrument panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the language resetting procedure.
3A low-maintenance battery is standard equipment. The cell caps can be removed and distilled water can be added, if necessary. Later models may be fitted with a “maintenance-free” battery, which is sealed.
4Remove the caps and check the electrolyte level in each of the battery cells. It must be above the plates. There’s usually a split-ring indicator in each cell to indicate the correct level. If the level is low, add distilled water only, then refit the cell caps.
Caution: Overfilling the cells may cause electrolyte to spill over during periods of heavy charging, causing corrosion and damage to nearby components.
5If the positive terminal and cable clamp on your vehicle’s battery is equipped with a rubber protector, make sure that it’s not torn or damaged. It should completely cover the terminal.
6The external condition of the battery should be checked periodically. Look for damage such as a cracked case.
7Check the tightness of the battery cable clamps to ensure good electrical connections. Check the entire length of each cable, looking for cracked or abraded insulation and frayed conductors.
8If corrosion (visible as white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the terminals, clean them with a battery brush, and reconnect them (see illustrations). Corrosion can be kept to a minimum by fitting specially treated washers available at car accessory shops, or by applying a layer of petroleum jelly or suitable grease to the
13.1 Tools and materials required for battery maintenance
1Face shield/safety goggles - When removing corrosion with a brush, the acidic particles can easily fly up into your eyes
2Baking soda - A solution of baking soda and water can be used to neutralise corrosion
3Petroleum jelly - A layer of this on the battery posts will help prevent corrosion
4Battery post/cable cleaner - This wirebrush cleaning tool will remove all traces of corrosion from the battery posts and cable clamps
5Treated felt washers - Placing one of these on each post, directly under the cable clamps, will help prevent corrosion
6Puller - Sometimes the cable clamps are very difficult to pull off the posts, even after the nut/bolt has been completely loosened. This tool pulls the clamp straight up and off the post without damage
7Battery post/cable cleaner - Here is another cleaning tool which is a slightly different version of No 4 above, but it does the same thing
8Rubber gloves - Another safety item to consider when servicing the battery; remember that’s acid inside the battery!
13.8a Battery terminal corrosion usually appears as light, fluffy powder
13.8c Regardless of the type of tool used on the battery posts, a clean, shiny surface should be the result
13.8b Removing a cable from the battery post with a spanner - sometimes special battery pliers are required for this procedure, if corrosion has caused deterioration of the nut (always remove the earth cable first, and connect it last!)
13.8d When cleaning the cable clamps, all corrosion must be removed (the inside of the clamp is tapered to match the taper on the post, so don’t remove too much material)
Every 12 000 miles 1•17
terminals and cable clamps after they are assembled.
9Make sure that the battery carrier is in good condition, and that the hold-down clamp bolt is tight. If the battery is removed (see Chapter 5 for the removal and refitting procedure), make sure that no parts remain in the bottom of the carrier when it’s refitted. When refitting the hold-down clamp, don’t overtighten the bolt.
10Corrosion on the carrier, battery case and surrounding areas can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Apply the mixture with a small brush, let it work, then rinse it off with plenty of clean water.
11Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged by corrosion should be coated with a zincbased primer, then painted.
12Additional information on the battery and jump starting can be found in Chapter 5 and the front of this manual.
Charging
Note: The manufacturer recommends the battery be removed from the vehicle for charging, because the gas which escapes during this procedure can damage the paint or interior, depending on the location of the battery. Fast charging with the battery cables connected can result in damage to the electrical system.
13 Remove all of the cell caps (if applicable), and cover the holes with a clean cloth to prevent spattering electrolyte. Disconnect the
14.1 Tools required for changing spark plugs
1Spark plug socket - This will have special padding inside to protect the spark plug’s porcelain insulator
2Torque wrench - Although not mandatory, using this tool is the best way to ensure the plugs are tightened properly
3Ratchet - Standard hand tool to fit the spark plug socket
4Extension - Depending on model and accessories, you may need special extensions and universal joints to reach one or more of the plugs
5Spark plug gap gauge - This gauge for checking the gap comes in a variety of styles. Make sure the gap for your engine is included. Feeler blades may be used instead
battery negative cable, and connect the battery charger leads to the battery posts (positive to positive, negative to negative), then plug in the charger. Make sure it is set at 12 volts if it has a selector switch.
Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is equipped with an antitheft system, make sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Note: If, after connecting the battery, the wrong language appears on the instrument panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the language resetting procedure.
14If you’re using a charger with a rate higher than two amps, check the battery regularly during charging to make sure it doesn’t overheat. If you’re using a trickle charger, you can safely let the battery charge overnight after you’ve checked it regularly for the first couple of hours. Where a maintenance-free battery is fitted, special precautions may be necessary when charging it (for example, the charge rate is normally very low). There may be a warning label on the battery, but if not, consult a BMW dealer or auto-electrician.
15If the battery has removable cell caps, measure the specific gravity with a hydrometer every hour during the last few hours of the charging cycle. Hydrometers are available inexpensively from car accessory shops - follow the instructions that come with the hydrometer. Consider the battery charged when there’s no change in the specific gravity reading for two hours, and the electrolyte in the cells is gassing (bubbling) freely. The specific gravity reading from each cell should be very close to the others. If not, the battery probably has a bad cell(s), and a new one should be fitted.
16Some maintenance-free (sealed) batteries have built-in hydrometers on the top, indicating the state of charge by the colour displayed in the hydrometer window. Normally, a bright-coloured hydrometer indicates a full charge, and a dark hydrometer indicates the battery still needs charging. Check the battery manufacturer’s instructions to be sure you know what the colours mean.
14.4a Spark plug manufacturers recommend using a wire-type gauge when checking the gap - if the wire does not slide between the electrodes with a slight drag, adjustment is required
17If the battery is sealed and has no built-in hydrometer, you can connect a digital voltmeter across the battery terminals to check the charge. A fully-charged battery should read 12.6 volts or higher.
18Further information on the battery and jump starting can be found in Chapter 5 and at the front of this manual.
14 Spark plug check and |
1 |
renewal |
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1 Before beginning, obtain the necessary tools, which will include a spark plug socket and a set of feeler blades. Special spark plug gap gauges can be obtained from certain spark plug manufacturers (see illustration).
2 The best procedure to follow when renewing the spark plugs is to purchase the new spark plugs beforehand, adjust them to the proper gap, and then renew each plug one at a time. When buying the new spark plugs, it is important to obtain the correct plugs for
your specific engine. This information can be 1 found in the Specifications section in the front
of this Chapter.
3With the new spark plugs at hand, allow the engine to cool completely before attempting plug removal. During this time, each of the new spark plugs can be inspected for defects and the gaps can be checked.
4The gap is checked by inserting the proper thickness gauge between the electrodes at the tip of the plug (see illustration). The gap between the electrodes should be the same as that given in the Specifications. The wire should just touch each of the electrodes. If the gap is incorrect, use the notched adjuster to bend the curved side of the electrode slightly until the proper gap is achieved (see illustration). Note: When adjusting the gap of a new plug, bend only the base of the earth electrode, do not touch the tip. If the earth electrode is not exactly over the centre electrode, use the notched adjuster to align the two. Check for cracks in the porcelain insulator, indicating the spark plug should not be used.
14.4b To change the gap, bend the earth electrode only, as indicated by the arrows, and be very careful not to crack or chip the porcelain insulator surrounding the centre electrode
1•18 Every 12 000 miles
14.5 When removing the spark plug HT leads, pull only on the connector
5With the engine cool, remove the HT lead from one spark plug. Do this by grabbing the connector at the end of the wire, not the lead itself (see illustration). Sometimes it is necessary to use a twisting motion while the connector and HT lead are pulled free.
6If compressed air is available, use it to blow any dirt or foreign material away from the spark plug area. A common bicycle pump will also work. The idea here is to eliminate the possibility of debris falling into the cylinder as the spark plug is removed.
7Place the spark plug socket over the plug, and remove it from the engine by turning it anti-clockwise (see illustration).
8Compare the spark plug with those shown in the accompanying photos to get an indication of the overall running condition of the engine.
9Apply a little copper-based anti-seize compound to the threads of the new spark plug. Locate the plug into the head, screwing it in with your fingers until it no longer turns, then tighten it with the socket. If available, use a torque wrench to tighten the plug to ensure that it is seated correctly. The correct torque figure is included in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Where there might be difficulty in inserting the spark plugs into the spark plug holes, or the possibility of crossthreading them into the head, a short piece of rubber or plastic tubing can be fitted over the end of the spark plug. The flexible tubing will act as a universal joint to help align the plug with the plug hole, and should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage.
14.7 Use a socket spanner with an extension to unscrew the spark plugs
10Before pushing the HT lead onto the end of the plug, inspect it as outlined in Section 15.
11Attach the HT lead to the new spark plug, again using a twisting motion on the connector until it is firmly seated on the spark plug.
12Follow the above procedure for the remaining spark plugs, renewing them one at a time to prevent mixing up the spark plug HT leads.
15 Spark plug HT leads, |
1 |
distributor cap and rotor - |
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check and renewal |
1The spark plug HT leads should be checked at the recommended intervals, and whenever new spark plugs are fitted in the engine.
2Begin this procedure by making a visual check of the spark plug HT leads while the engine is running. In a darkened garage (make sure there is ventilation) start the engine and observe each HT lead. Be careful not to come into contact with any moving engine parts. If there is a break in the wire, you will see arcing or a small spark at the damaged area. If arcing is noticed, make a note to obtain new HT leads, then allow the engine to cool.
3Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is equipped with an antitheft system, make sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.
15.11a On later models, loosen the screws and detach the distributor cap up so you can inspect the inside
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the wrong language appears on the instrument panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the language resetting procedure.
4The HT leads should be inspected one at a time to prevent mixing up the firing order, which is essential for proper engine operation.
5Disconnect the HT lead from the spark plug. Do not pull on the lead itself, only on the connector.
6Inspect inside the connector for corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Push the HT lead and connector back onto the end of the spark plug. It should be a tight fit on the plug end. If it is not, remove the lead and use pliers to carefully crimp the metal terminal inside the connector until it fits securely on the end of the spark plug.
7Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of the HT lead to remove any built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead excessively, since the conductor might break.
8Disconnect the HT lead from the distributor. Again, pull only on the connector. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the same manner as the spark plug end. Renew the HT lead in the distributor if necessary.
9Check the remaining spark plug HT leads, making sure they are securely fastened at the distributor and spark plug when the check is complete.
10If new spark plug HT leads are required, purchase a set for your specific engine model. Lead sets are available pre-cut, with the connectors already fitted. Remove and renew the HT leads one at a time, to avoid mix-ups in the firing order.
11Loosen the screws or detach the clips and remove the distributor cap (see illustration). Remove the screws (if applicable) and pull the rotor off the shaft (see illustration). Check the distributor cap and rotor for wear. Look for cracks, carbon tracks and worn, burned or loose contacts (see illustrations). Renew the cap and rotor if defects are found. It is common practice to fit a new cap and rotor whenever new spark plug HT leads are fitted. When fitting a new cap, remove the HT leads from the old cap one at a time, and attach
15.11b Use an Allen key to remove the screws, then lift the rotor off the shaft (later models)
Every 12 000 miles 1•19
15.11c Shown here are some of the common defects to look for when inspecting the distributor cap (if in doubt about its condition, fit a new one)
them to the new cap in the exact same location - do not simultaneously remove all the HT leads, or firing order mix-ups may occur.
16 Manual transmission |
1 |
lubricant level check |
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1 The transmission has a filler/level plug which must be removed to check the lubricant level. If the vehicle is raised to gain access to the plug, be sure to support it safely - do not crawl under a vehicle which is supported only by a jack! Note: The vehicle should be level to give an accurate lubricant check.
2 Remove the plug from the side of the
15.11d The rotor arm should be checked for wear and corrosion as indicated here (if in doubt about its condition, buy a new one)
transmission (see illustration) and use your little finger to reach inside the plug from the housing and feel the lubricant level. It should be at or very near the bottom of the plug hole.
3If it isn’t, add the recommended lubricant through the plug hole with a syringe or squeeze-bottle, until it just starts to run out of the hole. Refer to “Lubricants and fluids” at the beginning of this Chapter for the correct lubricant type. The manual transmissions on some later or high-performance models are filled with automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Such transmissions normally carry a sticker to this effect near the filler/level plug. Refer to a BMW dealer if still in doubt.
4Refit the plug and tighten securely. Check for leaks after the first few miles of driving.
5If regular topping-up is required, this can only be due to a leak which should be found and repaired before it becomes serious.
17 Differential lubricant level |
1 |
check |
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1 The differential has a filler/level plug which must be removed to check the lubricant level. If the vehicle is raised to gain access to the plug, be sure to support it safely - do not
crawl under the vehicle when it’s supported only by the jack! Note: The vehicle should be level to give an accurate lubricant check.
2 Remove the filler/level plug from the differential (see illustration). Use an Allen key to unscrew the plug.
3Use your little finger as a dipstick to make sure the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the plug hole. If not, use a syringe or squeezebottle to add the recommended lubricant until it just starts to run out of the hole.
4Refit the plug and tighten it securely.
5If regular topping-up is required, this can only be due to a leak which should be found and repaired before it becomes serious.
18 Valve clearances - |
3 |
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check and adjustment |
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Note: This procedure does not apply to the |
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M40 engine, which has automatic adjusters. |
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1 The valve clearances can be checked with |
1 |
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the engine hot or cold, but note that different |
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values are specified, depending on engine temperature. If it is wished to check/adjust the valve clearances with the engine hot, if necessary start and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then shut it off.
Caution: If the clearances are checked with the engine hot, extra care must be taken to avoid burns.
2 Remove the valve cover from the engine (see Chapter 2A).
3 Turn the engine as necessary until No 1 piston (front) is at Top Dead Centre (TDC) on the compression stroke (see Chapter 2A).
4 Check the valve clearances for No 1 cylinder. The valve clearances can be found in the Specifications Section at the beginning of this Chapter.
5 The clearance is measured by inserting the specified size feeler gauge between the end of the valve stem and the rocker arm adjusting eccentric. You should feel a slight amount of
16.2 Use a large Allen key to remove the |
17.2 Remove the differential filler/level |
18.6 The valve clearance is adjusted by |
filler/level plug (arrowed) and check the |
plug with an Allen key, and make sure the |
turning the eccentric with a wire hook - |
lubricant level with your little finger. It |
lubricant is level with the bottom of the |
once the specified clearance is obtained, |
should be level with the bottom of the hole |
hole |
tighten the locknut with a spanner, then |
- if it’s low, add lubricant |
|
remove the feeler gauge |
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