Bernina Artista 170 User Manual

MASTERING

YOUR

BERNINA

®

BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

MASTERING YOUR

BERNINA

artista 170 QPE/180

®

OWNER’S WORKBOOK

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®1/10/02 artista 170 QPE/180/1

MASTERING

YOUR

BERNINA

®

BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

Table of Contents

SECTION A Pages 3-16

Care and Feeding of Your Machine

SECTION B Pages 17-36
Let’s Start WIth The Basics

SECTION C Pages 37-59

On The Edge

SECTION D Pages 60-74

Gather It Up and Tuck It Down

SECTION E Pages 75-91

Miscellaneous Magic

SECTION F Pages 92-99

Creative Sewing

SECTION G Pages 100-111

Programming Pizzazz

SECTION H Pages 112-121

Fabulous Features

SECTION G Pages 122-131

Decorative Directions (180 only)

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MASTERING YOUR

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®

BERNINA

artista 170 QPE/180

OWNER’S WORKBOOK

Section A

Care and Feeding of Your Machine

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Care and Feeding of Your Machine

Machine Set Up

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Cover/Storage of foot control, FHS bar, etc.

• Accessory storage – how box slides on & opens

• Attach foot control; note storage of cords

• Power switch – Owner’s manual pg____

• Light - on/off function (in setup) – Owner’s
manual pg____

• Extension table + sliding guide

• Presser foot lifter

- acts as a “third hand”

- extra 2mm of presser foot lift

- drops feed dog to give extra space between

presser foot and feed dog

- speeds sewing by 20%

- alternate size available for use with a sewing

machine cabinet

Presser Feet

Owner’s manual pgs.____

• Importance of using the correct foot

• On-screen indicator

• Overview of included presser feet

Feed Dog

Owner’s manual pg. ____

Threads

Owner’s manual pg. ____

• Types of thread

• Uses for each type of thread

Needles

Owner’s manual pg.____

Bobbins

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Removing the bobbin case

• Winding a bobbin

• Use bobbin thread cutter

• Quick start bobbin – use thread cutter located in
the bobbin area

• Clip the thread close to the case before
removing the bobbin

SECTION A

Threading the Upper Thread

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Spool pins and discs – Owner’s manual pg.____

- vertical spool pin for stacked and decorative
threads

- horizontal spool pin for crosswound threads

- use disc closest to diameter of the spool

• Optional supplementary thread guide

• Optional BERNINA

• Thread machine with the presser foot up until
ready to thread the needle

Threading the Needle

• Needle threader – Owner’s manual pg.____

• Side thread cutter – Owner’s manual pg.____

• After the needle is threaded, put the thread
under the presser foot

• Lower the presser foot

• Insert the thread into the cutter; it is cut to the
proper length to begin sewing

Needle Stop Adjustment

• With the foot control – Owner’s manual pg.___

• With the Needle Stop Up/Down function –
Owner’s manual pg.___

Needle Positions

Owner’s manual pg. ____

• Eleven positions

Practical/Decorative Stitches

Owner’s manual pgs.____

• Stitches programmed in the machine

• Stitches available from CPS software

• Uses for the stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.____

• How to select stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.____

- touch screen

- scroll arrows

- selection by stitch number

- external buttons for stitch groups

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thread stand

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Straight Stitching

• Seam measuring – stitch plate marks – Owner’s
manual pg.____

- the following measurements are indicated on
the stitch plate: ¼”, 3/8”, ½”, 5/8”, ¾”, and 1”

- the line just behind the needle is 4mm

- the horizontal lines to the far back and the
line in front of the needle are

• Quilting/seam guide is included with the machine

• Left seam guide and seam guides with rulers are
available as optional accessories

• Straight stitch throat plate available

• 5.5mm throat plate available for 180

Basting

Owner’s manual pgs.____

• Loosening the top tension helps in the removal
of stitches.

• Using the maximum stitch length gives a 1”
stitch.

Topstitching/Edgestitching

Owner’s manual pgs.____

• Machine sews every second stitch when the
Long Stitch function is activated; stitch length is
10mm when using the maximum stitch length.

Securing Stitches

Owner’s manual pgs.____

• Options

• Stitch

• Functions

Satin Stitches

• Tension adjustments

- Function icon - must be placed on the
function bars (artista 180 only)

- TTC button (artista 180 only)

- Creative Consultant (artista 180 only)

- Setup function (artista 180 only)

- Thread bobbin case finger to adjust tension
(artista 170 QPE only)

• Can taper while sewing

• Stabilizer – important to the success of stitches

Altering Stitches

Owner’s manual pg.____

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

5

/8” from needle

Restoring Basic Settings

Owner’s manual pg.____

Presser Foot Pressure

Owner’s manual pg.____

Speed Controls

• Three ways to control – Owner’s manual pg.___

- function box in Setup

- function box on the screen

- ½ stitch at a time by tapping the back of the
foot control

Changing the Light Bulb

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Use only 12V 5W. W 2.1 x 9.5d bulbs

Cleaning the Feed Dog

• Periodically remove thread fluff and fabric fuzz
which collects under the stitch plate. Refer to
manual for step-by-step instructions (pg.___).

Cleaning and Lubricating the Hook

• Low mass hook system does not require
lubrication

• See Owner’s manual page ____ for step-by-step
cleaning instructions

Cleaning the Screen

• Wipe only with a damp cloth

Cleaning the Outside of the Machine

• Wipe with damp cloth. If needed, use a solution
of water and a few drops of liquid soap.

IMPORTANT: Never use oil, alcohol, or
solvents of any kind on any part of the
external surface of the machine.

Here’s an idea...

Use your birthday month as a

reminder to have your BERNINA

machine serviced. Take it to an

authorized BERNINA® technician
during the month of your birthday

and you’ll never have to remember

when it was last serviced.

®

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THREADS

Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any machine. Thread passes through
the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a “see-saw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor
quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle
breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size
needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions.

Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread must be considered for use with today’s
fabrics for fine stitches.

Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single ply. Domestic thread
fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.

Ply – the number of single strands twisted together to make a single thread.
Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching, causing the stitch to

appearslightly crooked. Poor quality threads are more likely to roll.
Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into a single ply. Thread should

not untwist during stitching. This will cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and
weak spots in seams.

Right twist – most American threads are twisted to the right, causing some rolling.
This gives average stitch quality.

Left twist – Most commercial and imported threads are twisted to the left, giving better
than average stitch quality. Left twist resists rolling and makes a larger loop for the hook
point to enter, reducing skipped stitches.

Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and marketing of many new thread types, such
as Sulky’s rayons and metallics. Made in West Germany, these are left twist threads; Mettler and Isacord
threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand
of thread towards you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.

Fiber – refers to the typ eof material used to produce the thread. Some commonly used threads:

• Polyester 2 ply – such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothing construction on man-made,
natural or blended fabrics. Will tolerate heat up to 450° Fahrenheit. Also Isacord
embroidery thread – excellent for embroidery, very abrasion resistant.

• Polyester 3 ply cordonnet – topstitching or buttonhole twist – such as Mettler 30/3.

• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 60/2 – excellent for French Machine Sewing, delicate
machine embroidery, and darning.

• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 30/2 – loose twist for a soft, shiny look in machine
embroidery, applique, and buttonholes.

• Cotton 3 ply – such as Mettler 50/3 – excellent for clothing construction on natural fibers.
Tighter twist than embroidery cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton
thread stretches less than polyester.

• Rayon – a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton, it is used for decorative work only.

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NEEDLES

Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many “mechanical” problems and damage
to fabrics can be traced to a bent, damages, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all
needles made are discarded at some stage of production. When selecting the correct needle for any sewing
project, three things must be considered:

Needle system – 130/705H
Needle point – to assure stitch formation and avoid fabric damage
Needle size – small size for lightweight fabrics; larger needle for heavier fabrics

If the needle is:

Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop to be picked up by the hook point
Bent – thread loop forms too far away from hook point; hook can’t enter loop to form stitch
Blunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to make a stitch

Need To Know

• Needle should be changed every 4-6
hours of sewing. The needle is the most
inexpensive part in your sewing machine
but is one of the most crucial for getting
good results and keeping your machine
running well. Don’t let false economy
keep you from doing what is best for
your sewing projects and your machine.

• European needles are chrome-plated
to glide in and out of fabric easily.

• The selected thread should fit in the
groove on the front of the needle. If it
isn’t protected by the groove, a needle
with a larger groove should be used.

• Always make sure the needle is fully
inserted as high as possible when
installing a new one.

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Ball Point

Stretch

Stretch
Double

Universal

Double
Universal

Triple
(Drilling)

Jeans

Jeans
Double

70-90

70-90

2.5/75

4.0/75

60-110

1.6/70-

8.0/100

3.0/90

70-90

4.0/100

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES

Has a rounder point. 70 for
lingerie, nylon, jersey; 80 for
T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece.

A stretch needle has a more
rounded point and a blue anti­cling coating which helps to
prevent skipped stitches in knits
and elastic. Sometimes used on
Ultrasuede

Two ballpoint needles on one
shank; each needle has a large
scarf. Used for hemming and for
stitching on knit fabric.

A compromise between a sharp
and a ballpoint needle; can be
used on both wovens and knits.
60 – very fine batiste
70 – broadcloth
80 – trigger and gabardine
90 – denim and twill
100 & 1 10 – canvas

Two needles attached to one
shank. Used for pintucks, hems,
and decorative work. Note: The

170 QPE can use up to a 4.0mm
and a 180 can use up to an

8.0mm.

Three needles attached to one
shank. Used to create mock
smocking and other decorative
effects.

Has a sharp point and a shaft
that is less prone to flex. The
sharpness of the needles makes
it better for use on denim and
woven fabrics where a clean
stitch is desired.

Two Jeans needles attached to
one shank. For topstitching on
denim with heavy thread; can
also be used for decorative

®

, vinyl, and plastic.

Microtex
Sharp
(Schmetz)

Microfiber
(Lammertz)

Quilting

Topstitch

Embroidery
(Schmetz)

Metafil
(Lammertz)

Metafil
Double

Wing

Double
Wing

Leather

60-90

assort’d
(75 &

90)

80-100

75-90

3.0/75

100­120

100

80-90

stitching with metallic thread.
A sharp point with a thin shaft.
60-90 corresponds to the weight
of the fabric; as the fabric gets
heavier, the number is higher.

The thin, tapers point of this
needle causes less damage to
fabric when seaming and cross
seaming.

A sharp point with a large eye
and deep groove. For use with
heavier fabrics – the large
groove cradles heavier threads.

Sharp needle with a large eye
and groove; also has a coating
and a larger scarf. For use with
embroidery thread – prevents
shredding of rayon or metallic
threads. Two threads may be
used through the eye of an 80
or 90 needle.

Two Metafil needles attached to
one shaft; for double needle
work with embroidery threads.

Sharp pointed needle with a non­cutting wedge of metal on each
side. Needle makes a hole in the
fabric without cutting the threads
of the fabric. Used for decorative
and heirloom work, such as
hemstitching. Works best on
natural fibers or on the bias.

One regular needle and one wing
needle attached to a single shaft.
Use the same as a Wing; makes
one large and one regular hole.

Point is a sharp cutting wedge.
Used for sewing leather only. Not
for vinyl or simulated leathers.

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NEEDLE POSITIONS

Fabric: Firmly woven fabric, 4” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery

Contrasting color

Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• The 170 QPE/180 has 11 fixed needle positions.

• Fold fabric in half to 2” x 6”.

• Select Straight Stitch. The basic settings are displayed
on the screen. The needle position indicator is just
below the stitch width scale; the needle should be in
center position.

• Position the fold of the fabric on the 1” mark on the
right side of the stitch plate.

• Select Pattern End 3x; sew until the machine stops.

• Move the needle one position to the left.

• Sew until the machine stops.

• Repeat until all six positions have been sewn.

• Leaving the fabric under the foot – move the needle
position back to center.

• Sew until the machine stops.

• Move the needle one position to the right.

• Sew until the machine stops.

• Move the needle one more position to the right – sew
until the machine stops.

• Repeat until all six positions have been sewn.

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SEAMING

Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery

Contrasting color

Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Find the 5/8” guide line on the stitch plate.

• Place fabric pieces right sides together and
align them with the guide line.

• Sew a 5/8” seam on one 6” edge.

• Attach the Quilting/Seam Guide to the foot
and sew a 2” seam on the other side.

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Basting Stitch #21
Preprogrammed settings

BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

Basting Stitch #21 - 5mm length

Long Stitch function engaged

BASTING

Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery

Contrasting color

Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Place fabric pieces right sides together.

• Using Basting Stitch #21 with the preprogrammed length, baste a

• Using the same stitch with a 5.5mm stitch length, engage the Long Stitch function and baste another 5/8”
seam along the opposite edge.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®1/10/02 artista 170 QPE/180/11

5

/8” seam along one side of the fabric.

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TOPSTITCHING/EDGESTITCHING

Fabric: Firm fabric – 4” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery

Contrasting color

Presser Foot: Edgestitch Foot #10/10C (optional accessory)

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Cut fabric in half to create 2 pieces each 2” x 6”.

• Sew two pieces together with a

• Press the seam open.

• From the right side, position the blade of the foot in the ditch of the seam.

• Select Triple Straight Stitch #6.

• Move the needle position 3 places to the left.

• Sew the length of the seam.

• Select the Long Stitch function.

• Move the needle position 4 places to the right.

• Start at the top of the seam as before.

• Sew down the length of the seam again.

5

/8” seam on the 6” sides.

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SECURING STITCHES

Fabric: Firm fabric – 3 pieces, 3” x 6” each
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Fold each fabric piece in half to 1½” x 6”.

• Find the

• The BERNINA® 170 QPE/180 secures in three ways:

5

/8” seam line on the guide plate.

1 – Select stitch #3 and sew a few stitches. Press the Quick Reverse button located on the front
of the sewing machine and the machine will sew in reverse until the button is released. Continue
stitching the seam and secure the end in the same manner.
2 – Select stitch #5 and stitch. The machine will automatically reverse after five stitches, then
continue in a forward motion. Stitch to the end of the seam, then press and release the Quick
Reverse button. The machine will stitch backward five stitches, and then continue forward again
five stitches and stop.
3 – Select stitch #332. Engage the Securing function to put a securing stitch at the beginning and the
end of each pattern repeat. In regular sewing, turn the Securing function off after the first stitch and
back on again after the last stitch is taken.

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SATIN STITCH

Fabric: Firm fabric – 3 pieces, 3” x 6” each
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. Cotton Embroidery
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Fold fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Use stabilizer as needed.

• Select Stitch #2. Change the stitch length to satin stitch and the stitch width to the maximum setting.

• Thread the bobbin thread through the hole in the finger of the bobbin case (170 QPE only).

• Move the needle position all the way to the left.

• Position the raw edge of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the right side of the stitch plate).

• Sew down this edge about 1”. While continuing to sew, turn the stitch width knob to taper the stitch to
0mm. Then widen the stitch back to maximum. Repeat until the stitching reaches the end of the fabric.

• Position the fold of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the left side of the stitch plate).

• Move the needle position all the way to the right and stitch along the right side of the fabric, tapering
and widening the stitching while sewing.

• Move the needle position to the center and stitch down the center of the fabric, tapering and widening
the satin stitch while sewing.

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ALTERED MEMORY

Fabric: Firm fabric – 6” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Fold fabric to 3” x 6”.

• Select stitch #407.

• Sew a row of stitching as programmed down the center of the sample.

• Alter stitch length to 1mm and sew a 2nd row on one side of the first row.

• Touch CLR - this clears alterations made to the selected stitch only.

• Select stitch #2 - (the one used for satin stitching in the previous exercise).
Notice the computer remembered all the changes made to the stitch.

• Select stitch #407 again.

• Alter stitch width to 3.5mm (170 QPE) or stitch 6mm (180) and sew a 3rd row on
the other side of the first row.

• Touch CLR ALL- notice the alterations made are gone.

• Select stitch #2 again - notice the changes made to it are gone also. CLR ALL
returns

• The computer will remember any and all stitches you alter, as long as the clear
buttons are not used and as long as the machine is not turned off.

all stitch alterations back to default settings.

RETURNING TO BASIC SETTINGS

• Three options: 1. Press the external CLR button

2. Touch the CLR ALL function.

3. Manually set changes back to the basic mark

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 Feet-ures
 Edgestitch Foot #10/10C
 Additional bobbin holders for accessory cabinet
 Additional presser foot holders for accessory cabinet
 Stabilizers – Sampler Pack or type __________

 Thread – Assortment or size ____ and type ____
 Needles – Assortment or size ____ and type ____

 Needle Threader
 Bobbins – Baker’s dozen
 Spool Bobbin Holders
 Magnetic Pin Cushion
 Magnetic Bobbin Holder
 Straight Stitch Plate
 Seam Sealant
 Extra Thread Stand
 Scissors - 6” or 7” Dressmaker’s shears ____

 Left guide (matches right guide included with machine)____
 Seam Guide with Rulers (right and left) ____
 Set of Magnifying Glasses

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

WISH LIST

Care and Feeding of Your Machine

type __________
size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____

size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____

4” or 5” Trimming scissors ____
Thread nips ____

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BERNINA

artista 170 QPE/180

OWNER’S WORKBOOK

Section B

Let’s Start With The Basics

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Let’ s Start With The Basics

Seams

Triple Straight Stitch – SL 2-3mm

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Jeans Foot #8 prevents needle deflection

• Non-Stick Straight Stitch Foot #53

• This stitch sews strong seams on heavy
fabrics

Zigzag – SL1mm SW1.5mm

Owner’s manual pgs.____

Stretch – SL1mm SW2mm

Owner’s manual pg. ____

Super Stretch – as programmed

Owner’s manual pg. ____

• use to seam curved edges that receive a
lot of stress such as the crotch area of pants.

Vari-Overlock – SL1mm SW4mm NP right

Owner’s manual pg. ____

• Can be used with double needle for a
decorative hem on knits

• Overlock Foot #2 (optional for 170 QPE) or
#2A (included with 180) prevents the seam
from rolling as it is being sewn

• Engage the Needle Down function

SECTION B

Reinforced Overlock – SL2mm SW5mm

Owner’s manual pg. ____

• The artista has several seaming stitches
from which to choose, depending on the
type of fabric being used. With the Creative
Consultant, you can specify the type of fabric
you want to use, and the computer will
suggest the appropriate stitch.

Stitching Corners

• Utilize the FHS system to raise and lower
the presser foot when turning corners.

• Use the 5/8” markings on stitch plate

• Engage the Needle Down function

• Press heel on foot control to lower needle

Oversewing Edges

Blind Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____

• The Blind Hem Foot #5, along with the
blindstitch, produces a superior blind hem.
The zigzag part of the stitch is formed over
the guide on the foot, causing the stitch to
be slightly loose, so that the blind hem will
not pucker and does not form a tuck in the
fabric.

Hand Picked – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____

Double Overlock – SL2mm SW5mm

Owner’s manual pg. ____

Knit Overlock – as programmed

Owner’s manual pg. ____

• Use Overlock Foot #2 (optional for 170 QPE)
or #2A (included with 180)

Stretch Overlock – SL2mm SW4mm

Owner’s manual pg. ____

Flat Joining – SL2mm SW4mm

Owner’s manual pg. ____

• Good for thick fabrics such as terry cloth
which would be stretched by a straight stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®1/10/02 artista 170 QPE/180/18

Triple Zigzag – Feet-ures, Unit A pg.____

• This stitch is used for strong, visible hems
on firm, coarse fabrics such as denim and
canvas.

Double Needle – Feet-ures, Units A and K, pgs__
Neckline Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____
Jeans – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____

• Height Compensation Tool

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

TRIPLE STRAIGHT STITCH

Fabric: Denim, 4” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Jeans
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Edgestitch Foot #10/10C (optional accessory)

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise forming two pieces, 2” x 6” each.

• Select the Triple Straight Stitch #6.

• Sew the two pieces together with a

• Press the seam open.

• Change to Edgestitch Foot #10/10C and adjust the needle position to stitch through the seam allowance.

• Adjust the stitch length to 3.5mm.

• With the guide of the foot in the ditch of the seam, topstitch the length of the seam on both sides.

5

/8” seam allowance using Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C.

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ZIGZAG SEAM

Fabric: Firm knit – 4” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut the fabric piece in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.

• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2 – SW 1mm and SL 0.5mm.

• Position the fabric to produce a

• Stitch the seam.

• Clip one seam allowance in the middle.

• Press one part of the seam open and leave the other half closed, so the stitch is visible.

• Trim and mount the sample.

5

/8” seam down one side.

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Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut fabric in half lengthwise creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.

• Select stitch #11.

• Position the fabric to produce a

• Stitch the seam; lighten the presser foot presure if fabric stretches.

• Clip one seam allowance in the middle and press one part of the seam open.

• Trim and mount the sample.

®

BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

SUPER STRETCH SEAM

Fabric: Heavy Double Knit, 4” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

5

/8” seam down one side.

Note: This stitch is good for an open seam on all knit fabrics; works well for sportswear.

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V ARI-OVERLOCK SEAM

Fabric: Cotton Interlock, 4” x 6”

Ribbing, 2” x 4”

Needle: 80/12 Univeral
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Overlock Foot #2 (optional accessory) /2A

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut an inside curve in one corner of the fabric to simulate a neckline.

• Select the Vari-Overlock Stitch #3.

• Engage the Needle Down function.

• Place folded ribbing along the curved edge of the fabric (ribbing and fabric, right sides together).

• Guide the raw edges of the fabric under the pin of the foot and stitch; stitch length and width can
be adjusted, if needed.

• Trim the sample and mount with the ribbing pressed to the finished position.

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Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6’ each.

• Select the Double Overlock Stitch #10.

• Guide the raw edge along the pin of the Overlock Foot.

• The right swing of the needle should go off the fabric edge.

• Trim the sample and mount.

®

BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

DOUBLE OVERLOCK SEAM

Fabric: Single Knit – 4” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Overlock Foot #2 (optional accessory) /2A

Note: This is a good overlock seam for loosely knit fabrics and for cross

seams in other knits and jerseys.

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Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating 2 pieces 2” x 6” each.

• Select the Stretch Overlock stitch #20.

• Guide the fabric so the right swing of the needle goes off the edge of the
seam; lighten presser foot pressure if seam stretches.

• Trim and mount the sample.

®

BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

KNIT OVERLOCK SEAM

Fabric: Sweater knit fabric, 4”x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: Regular sewing
Presser Foot: Overlock Foot #2 (optional accessory) /2A

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Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating 2 pieces 2” x 6” each.

• Select the Stretch Overlock stitch #13.

• Guide the fabric so the right swing of the needle goes off the edge of the
seam; lighten presser foot pressure if seam stretches.

• Trim and mount the sample.

®

BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

STRETCH OVERLOCK SEAM

Fabric: Loosely knit fabric, 4”x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: Regular sewing
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

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FLAT JOINING SEAM

Fabric: Terry cloth - 2 pieces, 2” x 6” each
Needle: 90/14 Universal
Thread: Regular sewing thread to match fabric
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Select the Stretch Overlock stitch #13.

• Cut a 5/8” seam allowance off one piece of fabric along the long edge.

• Mark a line on the other piece of fabric, 5/8” from one long edge. This will be
the right-hand piece of fabric.

• Overlap the fabric edges left over right, aligning the left raw edge with the
drawn line on the right-hand piece.

• Stitch along the raw edge. Turn the fabric over and stitch along the remaining

raw edge.

NOTE: This is a great seam technique to use on bulky fabrics such as terry cloth.

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REINFORCED OVERLOCK SEAM

Fabric: Bulky knit fabric, 4”x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: Regular sewing
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating 2 pieces 2” x 6” each.

• Select the Reinforced Overlock stitch #19.

• Guide the fabric along the 15mm line for a

• Trim excess seam allowance and mount the sample.

5

/8” seam; lighten presser foot pressure if seam stretches.

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STITCHING CORNERS

Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 5” x 5” each
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Select the Straight Stitch #1.

• Place fabric pieces right sides together.

• Place the fabric under the foot with the top edge even with the horizontal line behind the foot.

• The right edge should be even with the 5/8” seam line.

• Engage the Needle Down function.

• Sew until the bottom edge touches the horizontal line in front of the needle; stop.

• Pivot and continue sewing until you come to the next corner and do the same thing.

• Stitch only three sides of this sample.

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OVERSEWING EDGES

Fabric: Heavy Flannel – 3” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2.

• Finish one 6” edge using the following steps.

• Guide edge of fabric under the middle of the presser foot.

• The needle should go into the fabric on one stroke of the needle and over the edge on the next stroke.

• Do not use too long a stitch or too wide a stitch; the edge should lie flat, not roll.

• Match the weight of the thread to the weight of the fabric.

• Trim and mount the sample.

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BLIND HEM

Fabric: Heavy Flannel – 6” x 7”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse pattern Foot #1/1C and

Blind Hem Foot #5

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Finish one 6” edge of the fabric following the steps of the previous exercise.

• Fold a 2” hem to the wrong side of the fabric and press.

• Select Basting Stitch #21 and attach Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C.

• Baste the hem in place, sewing about ¼” from the raw edge.

• Select the Blindstitch #9 and attach Blind Hem Foot #5.

• Fold hem back to the right side over the basting line.

• Sew on the extended hem allowance, keeping the folded edge next to the guide on the foot.

• Adjust the stitch width if needed so that the needle barely stitches into the fold.

• Mount the sample with the edges folded back as shown in the drawing.

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Owner’s manual pg.___

• Turn up a 1” hem along one of the 6” edges and press.

• Turn up the depth of the hem again and press.

• Fold the entire hem toward the right side of the garment, so that the garment fold is

almost even with the top edge of the hem. A scant 1/8” to 1/16” of hem edge should
be visible. This will ensure that both folds are caught by the blind hem pick.

• Place the fabric under the foot just as a traditional blind hem would be placed.

• Sew the hem with Blindstitch #9, making sure that the zigzag pick catches both folds

while the straight stitch falls off the edge and stitches in air forming a chain along the
upper hem edge.

• Press and mount the sample.

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HAND PICKED HEM

Fabric: Lightweight broadcloth – 6” x 7”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Blind Hem Foot #5

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TRIPLE ZIGZAG HEM

Fabric: Firmly woven – 6” x 7”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Fold a 2” hem to the wrong side of the fabric; press.

• Select the Triple Zigzag Stitch #7.

• Adjust stitch length and width as desired.

• From the right side of the fabric, stitch the hem in place, sewing about 1½” from the fold.

• From the wrong side, trim the excess fabric close to the stitches.

• Press and mount the sample.

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DOUBLE NEEDLE HEM

Fabric: Cotton interlock – 6” x 7”
Needle: Double 3.0/80
Thread: All-purpose, 2 colors
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Turn up a 2” hem along one of the 6” edges and press.

• Insert a 3.0/80 double needle.

• Thread the needles with two different colors of thread.

• Place the folded edge of the fabric along the 1” guideline on the right side of the stitch plate.

• Select stitch #1; sew half of the hem.

Note: To be sure the needles will not strike the foot, turn the handwheel to “walk” the
machine through the first stitch. Narrow the width as needed to avoid breaking needles.

• Select stitch #9 or experiment with similar stitches; stitch the remainder of the seam.

• Trim excess fabric from the wrong side of the hem.

• Check Feet-ures, Unit A for detailed information on working with Double and Triple needles.

Note: This is a good stitch to use when hemming T-shirts and pajamas. You can use
other stitches with a double needle for other types of fabrics.

• Press and mount the sample.

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NECKLINE HEM

Fabric: Single knit cotton – 4” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut a curve to simulate a neck edge in one corner.

• Sew a line of stay-stitching, 3/8” in from the neck edge using the straight stitch and the Long
Stitch function; disengage te Long Stitch function after staystitching.

• Turn the raw edge under and press or baste in place.

• Select the Honeycomb Stitch #8.

• Sew from the right side ¼” from the folded edge.

• Trim surplus fabric from wrong side, close to the stitching.

Notes: - If the hem stretches, add a strip of Stitch Witchery® to the edge as it is

stay-stitched.

- Using the Needle Stop Down function will keep the fabric in place when
sewing curves.

- The Balance function can be used to make the stitches closer together or
farther apart.

• Press and mount the sample.

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JEANS HEM

Fabric: Denim – 5” x 7”
Needle: 100/16 or 110/18 Jeans
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Jeans Foot #8 (optional accessory)

Note: Specially designed to sew over heavy seams and fabrics, the Jeans Foot #8 guides the
needle through heavy thicknesses and helps to eliminate needle breakage. It is also effective
for topstitching with buttonhole twist or cordonnet threads.

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut fabric in two pieces, 5” x 3½” each.

• Insert a Jeans needle and select stitch #1.

• Sew a 5/8” seam with right sides together.

• Press the seam to one side.

• Topstitch, using the edge of the foot along the seam as a guide, and stitching through the seam
allowances.

• Turn up the lower edge twice, about 3/8” each time.

• Topstitch the hem in place, about 1/8” from the upper edge of the hem.

• Press and mount the sample.

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 Feet-ures, Units A, B, C
 Overlock Foot #2
 Embroidery Foot #6
 Jeans Foot #8
 Edgestitch Foot #10/10C
 Straight Stitch Foot #13
 Cut and Sew Attachment #80
 Double Needles

 Jeans Needles

 Stitch Witchery -
 BERNINA Ironing System
 Curved Hem Ruler
 6” Sewing Gauge
 Seam Pressing Stick
 BERNINA Cutting Mat
 BERNINA 14” Ruler
 Rotary Cutter

®

Let’s Start WIth The Basics

 2.0mm
 2.5mm
 3.0mm

 90/14
 100/16
 Double

5

/8” roll

BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

WISH LIST

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OWNER’S WORKBOOK

Section C

On The Edge

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Buttonholes

Owner’s manual pg.____
Feet-ures, Units A and K

• Types and Uses

• Preparation

- proper stabilizers

- sometimes using two or more layers

- proper adhesion of iron-on stabilizers

• Positioning:

- marking

- full bust can be beginning point

- using spacing tape

- using Simpflex

• Measuring the Button:

- to determine length of buttonhole

• Grading Seams

- using applique scissors

• Height Compensation Tool

- keep foot level

• Buttonhole Leveler

• Tension Adjustments

• Testing:

- always use same fabric, thread and stabilizer

• Cutting Open:

- seam sealant

- block and cutter

• Tricks:

- wash-a-way stabilizer for high pile fabrics

- Stitch Witchery® for loose wovens or knits

• Buttonhole Balance

• Programmed Buttonholes

• Corded Buttonholes:

- with gimp cord

- with threads

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

SECTION C

On The Edge

Sewing Buttons On

Owner’s manual page ____
Feet-ures, Unit D

• Button Sew-On Stitch

- regular

- decorative

- snaps, hooks, and charms

- tie a quilt

Edges

• Picot – Feet-ures, Unit D

• Shell

- blindstitch – Feet-ures, Units A and K

- hemmer feet #68 or #69 – Feet-ures, Unit I

• Rolled and Whipped Edge – Feet-ures, Unit A

• Fine Edge – Feet-ures, Units B and K

• Corded Edge – Feet-ures, Units B and K

- for tucks

- for hems

• Designer Hem – Feet-ures, Units B and K

Attaching Elastics

• Types

• Methods of applying

- turn under

- couching over

- lingerie

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BUTTONHOLES AND EYELETS

TYPES AND USES

ST ANDARD BUTTONHOLE

Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, trousers, bedlinens.

HEIRLOOM BUTTONHOLE

Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, dresses, trousers. children’s and baby
clothes, doll clothes, heirloom work.

STRETCH BUTTONHOLE

All stretch fabrics made from cotton, wool, silk, and synthetic fibers.

ROUND BUTTONHOLE WITH NORMAL BART ACK

Medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear.

ROUND BUTTONHOLE WITH HORIZONT AL BART ACK

Medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear.

KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH NORMAL BART ACK

Heavy weight, non-stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, trousers, leisure wear.

KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH POINTED BARTACK

Non-stretch firm fabric. Jackets, coats, leisure wear.

KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH NORIZONT AL BARTACK

Firm, non-stretch fabrics. jackets, coats, leisure wear.

STRAIGHT STITCH BUTTONHOLE

For prestitching buttonholes and pocket openings. For bound buttonholes & welt pockets.

BUTTON SEW-ON PROGRAM

For flat buttons with 2 and 4 holes. For sewing on snaps, hooks, and charms.

NARROW ZIGZAG EYELET

Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, other decorative work.

STRAIGHT STITCH EYELET

Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, other decorative work.

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A number of buttonhole feet are available for BERNINA® sewing machines.
The descriptions below will help differentiate between the various feet.

BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3

The standard 5mm buttonhole foot.

Works with any BERNINA

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

BUTTONHOLE FEET

BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3C

®

sewing machine

The standard 9mm buttonhole foot.
“C” indicates a “coded” foot, with a light
sensor that allows 9mm wide stitching.

Works with models 1630 and artista 180.

BUTTONHOLE FOOT WITH SLIDE #3B

A 5mm foot with a movable slide indicating

buttonhole length, making it easy to

stitch a series of identical buttonholes.

Works with any BERNINA® sewing machine.

AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3A

Automatic foot for machines with a 5mm and

9mm feed system. “A” indicates an “automatic”

foot, with a light sensor for counting stitches.

Works with models 1130-1530 and 150-170 QPE.

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AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3C

The automatic buttonhole foot for

machines with a 9mm feed system,

indicated by the letter “C”.

Works with models 1630 and artista 180.

AUTOMA TIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT WITH SLIDE #3A

Combines the handy slide measuring system of

Buttonhole Foot #3B with the electronic sensor of the

older Automatic Buttonhole Feet #3A and #3C.

Works with models 135 PE/145 and 150-180.

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STABILIZERS

Tear-Away Stabilizer: The most commonly used type of stabilizer, designed to provide

temporary support of stitching. Placed on the wrong side of the project and carefully
pulled away once stitching is complete. Available in three weights – heavy, medium, and
light. Multiple lightweight layers may be preferable to one heavy layer, as they are easier
to remove.

Cut-Away Stabilizer: The most widely used stabilizer in the commercial market. Does
not break down under dense stitching, due to the high fiber – rather than paper – content.
Excess stabilizer is trimmed away after stitching (leave approximately ¼” of stabilizer
around the edges).

Web/Poly-Mesh Type Stabilizer: A specially formulated cut-away stabilizer developed
for use behind lightweight or light-colored fabrics.

Water-Soluble Stabilizer: Used for backing and topping, in single or multiple layers.
Available in two weights. Excellent for decorative stitching and cutwork as there are
no remnants of stabilizer left after removal (it dissolves). As a topping, it keeps stitches
from being lost in heavily napped fabrics such as velvet and corduroy.

Knit Fusible Interfacing: A very lightweight, flexible interfacing sometimes used as a
stabilizer, it gives permanent support (as an underlining) to a fabric. Perfect for plackets,
garment edges, under buttonholes, and anywhere extra body and stability are needed.

Woven Fusible Interfacing: This interfacing is sometimes used as a stabilizer and is
generally cut on the bias to provide better drape. Gives a firmer hand or finish than knit
or non-woven interfacings. Used for lapels, facings, and anywhere a great deal of extra
body and stability are needed.

Iron-On Stabilizer: A non-woven product similar to paper. Perfect for knits, this tear­away stabilizer is temporarily bonded to the fabric, inhibiting the tendency of the material
to stretch.

Heat Removable Stabilizer: Woven from strands of fiber that are burned away at a low
temperature, heat removable stabilizers are perfect for heirloom stitchery.

Liquid/Spray Stabilizers: Wonderful for sheer fabrics from which all stabilizer must be
removed after stitching, these products are painted or sprayed onto the fabric. Several
light applications of spray stabilizer are preferable to one heavy application.

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MANUAL BUTTONHOLES

Fabric: Heavy flannel, 6” x 6”
Stabilizer: 1 piece, 3” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Press and insert the stabilizer.

• Draw a line 1½” from the fold along the 6” length.

• Mark two horizontal lines, running between the fold and the drawn line, spaced about 2” apart.

• Select buttonhole #51 – the standard buttonhole — and MAN from the function toolbar.

• Position the foot over the first short line, aligning the fold of the fabric with the

• Sew the first side of the buttonhole, engaging box #1 on the screen.

• Stop at the drawn line and select box #2.

• Continue stitching the remaining steps of the buttonhole; touch esc.

• Select stitch #57 and MAN. Place the second short line under the presser foot as before.

• Sew the keyhole buttonhole on the second marked line; touch esc.

• Cut one buttonhole open.

• Trim and mount the sample.

5

/8” marking behind the foot.

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BUTTONHOLE BALANCE

Fabric: Heavy flannel, 6” x 9”
Stabilizer: 1 piece, 6” x 9”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidert
Presser Foot: Buttonhole Foot with #3A/3C

• Owner’s manual page __.

• Select buttonhole #51 and decrease bead density by lengthening the stitch to 1.

• Sew about a 1” buttonhole using the counted stitch method and mark it #1.

• Adjust the balance toward the closed stitch icon.

• Sew the buttonhole and mark it #2.

Note: This buttonhole bead is very dense.

• Turn the balance knob toward the open stitch icon.

• Sew another buttonhole; now the stitches are farther apart.

• Mark the sample with #3.

Note: This buttonhole bead is very open.

• Return the balance knob to mormal.

#1

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#3

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AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLES

Fabric: Cotton Interlock, 6” x 6”

Heavy Flannel, 6” x 6”

Stabilizer: 2 pieces, 3” x 6” each
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Automatic Buttonhole Foot #3A/3C

Owner’s manual pg.____

Sample #1

• Fold the knit fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Press and insert the stabilizer.

• Draw a line 1½” from the fold along the 6” length.

• Mark two horizontal lines, running between the fold and the drawn line, spaced about 2” apart.

• Select buttonhole #53 – the stretch buttonhole.

• Position the foot over the first short line, aligning the fold of the fabric with the 5/8” marking behind the foot.

• Sew a buttonhole on the first drawn line.

• Stop at the drawn horizontal line and press the securing button; as you stitch, the word “auto” appears on
the screen.

• The buttonhole length is programmed and when you start sewing again, the machine completes the
buttonhole automatically.

• Sew the memorized buttonhole on the second line.

Sample #2

• Fold the flannel fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Press and insert the stabilizer.

• Draw a line 1½” from the fold along the 6” length.

• Mark two horizontal lines, running between the fold and the drawn line, spaced about 2” apart.

• Select buttonhole #58 – keyhole buttonhole.

• Stitch a buttonhole on the first drawn line

• Sew the memorized buttonhole on the second line. Note: To determine the buttonhole length, calculate

the bead length only; the eye will sew accordingly.

• Trim and mount the sample.

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Auto Buttonhole

Foot #3A/3C

Standard Buttonhole

Foot #3/3C

CORDED BUTTONHOLES

Fabric: Heavy flannel, 6” x 6”

Two 10” lengths of gimp cprd

Stabilizer: 1 piece, 3” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C and

Automatic Buttonhole Foot #3A/3C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Press and insert the stabilizer.

• Mark a line 1½” from the fold and running the length of the fabric.

• Mark two horizontal lines between the fold and the line, spaced about 2” apart.

• Select the Standard Buttonhole #51.

• Place the fold so it is on the 5/8” line behind the presser foot.

• Lower the needle (using the foot control) into the fabric on the first line.

• Fold one piece of cord in half; place loop around prong of the Auto Buttonhole Foot #3A or #3C.

Note: The cord strengthens the buttonhole on wovens and prevents it from stretching on knits.
The thickness of the cord depends on the fabric to be sewn. Suitable cords are perle cord #8,
thick hand sewing thread, gimp cord, or crochet cotton.

• Sew the buttonhole.

• Pull the loop of gimp cord snug and cut tails close to bartack.

Note: On knits, pull to back and tie a knot.

• Select MAN from the function bar.

• Sew another corded buttonhole using the Buttonhole Foot #3/3C on the second line.

• The cord may come away from the prong of this foot. Therefore it is advisable to hold the loop of the gimp
down lightly with the finger.

• Pull the cord ends to the back with a large hand sewing needle and tie.

• Trim and mount sample.

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BUTTONHOLE LENGTH

DIRECT ENTRY

Fabric: Heavy flannel, 6” x 6”
Stabilizer: 1 piece, 3” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.

• Mark two lines perpendicular to the fold, spacing them about 2” apart.

• Select buttonhole #54.

• Position the foot over the first line, aligning the fold of the fabric with the
the foot.

• Touch the symbol on the function bar that is the buttonhole with a question mark.

• When the length screen appears, program in the buttonhole length of 22 mm.

• Touch OK to confirm; the screen changes automatically. The word auto below the buttonhole
symbol on the screen indicates that the buttonhole is programmed.

• Sew the buttonhole.

• Move the fabric to position the needle over the second line and sew a duplicate buttonhole.

• Trim threads close and mount the sample.

5

/8” marking behind

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BUTTONHOLE LENGTH

ON-SCREEN MEASURING

Fabric: Heavy flannel, 6” x 6”

Two 10” lengths of gimp cprd

Stabilizer: 1 piece, 3” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C and

Automatic Buttonhole Foot #3A or #3C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.

• Mark two lines perpendicular to the fold, spacing them about 2” apart.

• Position the foot over the first line, aligning the fold of the fabric with the 5/8” marking behind the foot.

• Select the Standard Buttonhole #57.

• Open the button measuring screen by touching the button symbol on the function bar; a scale appears
on the screen.

• Hold a button against the scale at the bottom left corner of the screen.

• Use the external stitch width knob to move the vertical line on the screen; the line should be exactly at
the right edge of the button. The buttonhle size is shown in mm above the horizontal line.

Note: 2mm are added automatically to accommodate thickness of the button.

• Sew the buttonhole on the first line.

• Sew a memorized buttonhole on the second line.

• Trim and mount sample.

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STITCH COUNTER BUTTONHOLES

Fabric: Heavy flannel, 6” x 6”
Stabilizer: 1 piece, 3” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.

• Mark a parallel line 2” from the fold and a second one 1” from the fold.

• Mark two lines perpendicular to the fold, spacing them about 2” apart.

• Select standard buttonhole #51.

• Touch the “presser foot 3” symbol on the function bar.

• Position the beginning of the buttonhole on the line closest to the fold, aligning the fold with

5

the

/8” marking behind the foot.

• Sew the first bead and stop stitching at the second line.

• Press the quick reverse button - as you stitch, the bottom bartack and second bead are sewn.

• Stop the machine even with the first stitch of the first bead - press quick reverse.

• The machine sews the top bartack, ties the stitches off and stops automatically.

• Auto appears on the screen and the buttonhole is programmed.
Notes:

- The first bead is sewn forward, the second bead backward.

- The buttonhole must be reprogrammed after altering stitch length, width
or balance.

- Practice using the fabric and stabilizer to be used in the finished project.

- Stitch buttonholes at consistent speed.

• Trim threads close and mount the sample.

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STRAIGHT STITCH BUTTONHOLE

Fabric: Linen, 6” x 6”
Stabilizer: 1 piece, 3” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C and

Automatic Buttonhole Foot #3A/3C

Owner’s manual page___

• Attach Automatic Buttonhole Foot #3A/3C to the machine.

• Select stitch #59.

• Use any one of the available methods to make a 29mm buttonhole.

• Mark three lines perpendicular to the fold, spacing them about 2” apart.

• Position the beginning of the buttonhole on the line closest to the fold, aligning the fold with
the 5/8” marking behind the foot.

• Stitch the buttonhole on the first line - Do not remove the fabric.

• Select stitch #51 - sew this buttonhole (the same 29mm size) on top of the straight stitch buttonhole.

• Select stitch #59 again and sew another buttonhole on the second line, making it 27mm this time.

• Change to foot #3/3C - adjust the width of the buttonhole to 5mm (170 QPE) or 9mm (180).

• Sew a second buttonhole about 1” long on the third line.

Notes:

- Straight stitch buttonholes can be used to pre-sew and reinforce buttonholes on fabrics
which fray easily. The buttonhole beads and bartacks will cover the stitching. Any of the
methods for determining the buttonhole lengths can be used.

- Straight stitch buttonholes can be used as a buttonhole on imitation suede and leather.

- The distance between the prestitched lines can be adjusted with the stitch width.

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BUTTON SEW-ON STITCH

Fabric: Heavy flannel, 6” x 6”
Stabilizer: 1 piece, 3” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Button Sew-On Foot #18 (optional accessory)

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Select stitch #60.

• Lower the feed dogs.

• Fold the fabric in half to 2” x 6”; press. Insert the stabilizer.

Notes: - You can sew buttons on to stay!

- A low shank can be made for dresses and blouses or a high shank
can be made for heavier fabrics such as coats and blazers.

- Use the Button Sew-On Foot #18 to sew on waistband closures,
hook-and-eye fasteners, snaps, curtain rings, and charms.

Tecnique #1

• Use a glue stick to position a button in place.

• Adjust the pin on Foot #18 to the highest position for a long shank.

• Check the distance between the holes of the button by turning the hand wheel.

• Adjust the stitch width if necessary.

• Hold the thread tails as you begin to sew.

• Machine stops automatically when program is completed; threads are secured as part of program.

Technique #2

• Using the lowest shank setting, attach a charm, a length of ribbon, and a hook-and-eye to the same
fabric.

• Trim threads close and mount the sample.

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PICOT EDGE

Fabric: Lightweight single knit cotton, 6” x 4”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing thread
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Select the Vari-Overlock stitch #3 - SW 4-5mm and SL 1.5mm.

• Fold under one 6” edge about ¼” and press.

• Place fabric to the left and position it under the foot so that when the stitch swings to the right, it
will just pass over the folded edge.

• On knit fabrics the surplus can be trimmed from the wrong side close to the stitch.

• On woven fabrics it is advisable to first sew a row of small zigzag stitches about ¼” from where
the picot edge will be. Then you will be able to trim close to these stitches after the picot has
been stitched.

• Trim and mount the sample.

This stitch is suitable only for fine, soft fabrics and is ideal for lingerie and nightwear.

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SHELL EDGE

Fabric: Nylon tricot, 6” x 4”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing thread
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Select the Blind stitch #9 - SW 2.5-5mm and SL 1.5-2mm. The longer the stitch length, the
larger the shells.

• Engage the mirror image function.

• Fold under one 6” edge about ½” and press.

• Place fabric to the left and position it under the foot so that when the stitch swings to the
right, it will just pass over the folded edge.

• On knit fabrics the surplus can be trimmed from the wrong side close to the stitch.

• On woven fabrics it is advisable to first sew a row of small zigzag stitches about ¼” from
where the shell edge will be. Then you will be able to trim close to these stitches after the
edge is finished.

• Trim and mount the sample.

This stitch is suitable for fine, lightweight fabrics and is ideal for lingerie and nightwear.

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ROLLED AND WHIPPED EDGE

Fabric: Lightweight cotton, 6” x 4”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing thread
Presser Foot: Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Clean one 6” edge of “whiskers”

• Select the ZigZag Stitch #2 - SW 2.5mm and SL 1mm or less.

• Select the left needle position.

• Loosen the top tension if necessary.

• Place cut edge of fabric between the center and right toes of the presser
foot and sew.

Notes:

- The left swing of the needle should be in the fabric, while the right
swing falls off of the right edge of the fabric.

- As the needle swings left, it should roll the fabric into a tiny rolled edge.

- The finer the fabric, the finer the needle and thread used.

• Trim and mount the sample.

This edge finish is used on a single thickness of fine lightweight fabrics.
It is also use as a seam finish or as an edge on ruffles, hems etc.

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FINE EDGE

Fabric: Batiste, 6” x 4”
Needle: 70/10 Universal
Thread: 60 wt. needle and bobbin
Presser Foot: Edgestitch Foot #10/10C (optional accessory)

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Select the ZigZag Stitch #2 - SW 2mm and SL 1mm.

• Select the left needle position.

• Fold under ½” hem allowance on one 6” edge and press.

• Place the fabric right side up, to the left of the guide on the foot and sew the edge.

• When completed, trim away surplus fabric from the wrong side, close to the stitch.

• Mount the sample.

Note: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C can be used - settings as above but use center needle position.

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CORDED EDGE

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 6” x 4”

Pearl Crown Rayon cord

Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: To match cord
Presser Foot: Edgestitch Foot #10/10C (optional accessory)

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Fold under a ½” hem allowance on one 6” edge and press.

• Place the folded edge, right side up, against the left side of the center blade.

• Select the ZigZag stitch #2 - SW 2mm and SL 1mm or adjust as needed.

• Adjust the needle position so the stitch falls on the folded edge.

• The right swing of the needle should barely miss the edge of the fold, stitching in air.

• Sew 2 or 3 stitches and stop with the needle down.

• Raise the foot, insert the cord under the foot from the right, against the needle.

• Pull the cord up through the center slot of the foot and hold it against the left side of the guide.

• Continue stitching - the cord will feed into the zigzag stitch.

• Trim the excess fabric from the wrong side.

• Mount the sample.

Note: Cord can be a variety of types - pearl rayon works well.

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DESIGNER HEM

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 6” x 4”

Pearl Crown Rayon cord

Needle: 80/12 Sharp
Thread: All-purpose sewing thread
Presser Foot: Edgestitch Foot #10/10C (optional accessory)

• Select Straight Stitch #1.

• Select the left needle position.

• Turn the raw edge under

• Stitch with the fold against the left side of the guide on the presser foot.

• Trim away seam allowance as close to stitching as you can get.

• Turn the first folded edge under again tightly and place the new fold against the left side
of the guide on the foot.

• Stitch again from the wrong side of the fabric as in the first step.

• A successful hem will have two parallel lines of stitching on the wrong side of
the hem and one showing on the right side.

• Trim and mount the sample.

3

/8” and press.

This is a very narrow two-step hem, easily sewn on straight or bias grains.
Works great on sheer farbric.

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ATT ACHING ELASTIC LACE

Fabric: Nylon tricot, 6” x 4”

9” of elastic lace

Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing thread
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

• Select the Running stitch #4.

• Adjust stitch length to 1mm.

• Engage the needle down function.

• Position the elastic wrong side down on the right side of the tricot along one of the 6” edges.

• Leave a tail of elastic at the back of the presser foot for a “handle”.

• Position the elastic so the stitching is at the bottom edge of the elastic lace.

• Stretch the elastic lace gently, as it is being sewn.

• After stitching, trim the surplus tricot from the wrong side of the elastic lace, close to the stitching.

• Mount the sample.

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TURNED UNDER ELASTIC

Fabric: Lycra - cotton or nylont, 6” x 5”

9” of cotton swimwear elastic, ½” wide

Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing thread
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

• Select the ZigZag stitch #2 - SW 2mm and SL 2mm.

• Position the elastic on the wrong side of the fabric, along one 6” edge.

• Allow a 2” tail of elastic to extend beyond the fabric.

• Using the tail of elastic at the back of the presser foot for a “handle”, stretch the elastic
a bit to simulate the leg of an exercise leotard or swimsuit.
Note: This is the same procedure used to do a turned waistband, using wider elastic.

• Sew the elastic to the fabric keeping the edge of the elastic and the edge of the fabric together.

• If stopping midway, use the Needle Down function to hold the elastic and fabric in place.

• Fold the elastic to the wrong side and overstitch the elastic from the right side using Stitch #16
or #17 with a length of 1mm.

• Adjust presser foot pressure and/or stitch length if elastic stretches out as it is sewn.

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 Presser Feet:

 Feet-ures
 Gimp or Pearl Crown Rayon
 Stitch Witchery - roll
 Water-soluable stabilizer
 Buttonhole Space Tape
 Buttonhole Placement Gauge - Simpflex ruler
 ½” Drafting Tape
 Marking Pens/Pencils
 Applique Scissors - for grading seams
 Height Compensation Tool
 Seam Sealent
 Glue Stick
 Buttonhole Cutter and Block Set
 Double Needles
 Cotton elastics
 Accessory Box

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WISH LIST

On The Edge

 Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3B
 Embroidery Foot #6
 Edgestitch Foot #10/10C
 Button Sew-on Foot #18

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OWNER’S WORKBOOK

Section D

Gather It Up and Tuck It Down

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SECTION D

GATHER IT UP AND TUCK IT DOWN

Gathering

• Gathering With A Basting Stitch

- Lengthen stitch all the way

- Tighten top tension for easier removal

• Gathering Over A Single Cord

- Refer to Feet-ures, Unit B

- Embroidery Foot #6 with stitch #2

• Gathering Over Two Cords

- Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C with stitch #12

- Can use elastic thread for shirring

Tucks

• Pintuck Feet and Double Needles

- refer to Feet-ures, Unit F

- which feet go with which needle

- how to thread a double needle

- how to use grooves in feet

• Corded Pintucks

- refer to Feet-ures, Unit F

- straight tucks

- gimp hole

- turning corners

• Elastic Thread In Bobbin Case

- Refer to Feet-ures, Unit H

- Use Black Latch or secondary bobbin case

• Narrow Casing Elastic

- Refer to Feet-ures, Unit A

- Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C with stitch #15

• Wide and Extra-Wide Gathering Feet #16

- refer to Feet-ures, Units D and L

- gathering a single layer

- gathering to a flat piece

- short stitch length for easing

• Ruffler Attachment

- refer to Feet-ures, Unit J

• Pleats vs Tucks

- refer to Feet-ures, Units C and K

- Edgestitch Foot #10/10C

- Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

• Large Tucks and Pleats

- refer to Feet-ures, Unit D

- Quilting/Seam Guide

- Zipper Foot with Guide #14

- Guide Bars with Rulers

• Decorative Tucks

- refer to Feet-ures, Unit F

- sewn with decorative stitches vs straight

- corded edges

- lace inserted

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GATHERING WITH A BASTING STITCH

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern #1/1C

• Trim all 4 edges of fabric piece with a wavy rotary cutter.

• Use all-purpose sewing thread top and bottom.

• Select stitch #21.

• Stitch 5/8” from one 12” edge.

• Tie the threads at the beginning to secure and gather the sample up to 6”.

Notes:

- The machine sews every fourth stitch.

- The maximum stitch length possible is 20mm.

- Use a fine darning thread; it is easier to remove after a seam has been sewn.

- To secure basting stitches, sew a few normal length straight stitches at the beginning
and end of the seam.

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GATHERING OVER A SINGLE CORD

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”

18” of cord

Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing
Presser Foot: Embroidery Foot #6 (optional accessory)

• Trim all four edges of sample fabric before beginning.

• Thread the cord through the hole in Foot #6, leaving a 2”-3” tail behind the foot.

• Select stitch #2 - SW 2.5mm and SL 2-2.5mm.

• Stitch

• Sew over the cord.

• Secure the cord at the beginning and then pull it to gather the sample to 6”.

5

/8” from one 12” edge.

Notes:

- Gathering over cord adds additional strength, eliminates thread breakage and allows better
control of gathering.

- Drop the feed dog and sew a bartack at the beginning and end of cord for strength.

- Do not sew through cording.

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GATHERING OVER TWO CORDS

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”

30” of cording

Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing
Presser Foot: Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C

• Trim all 4 edges of the fabric piece with a wavy rotary cutter.

• Place the fabric under the foot and lower the needle but not the foot.

• Select the Gathering Stitch #12.

• Fold cord in half and loop around the middle toe of foot #3/3C; lower it.

• Lift cord loop from toe and pull cord forward leaving 3” tails behind the foot.

• Begin to sew, allowing the two grooves of the buttonhole foot to guide the cord.

• Sew along one 12” edge - 5/8” from the edge.

• Pull on both cords to gather the sample to 6”.

Note: Lower the feed dogs and sew a bar tack at beginning and end of cord for strength.

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• Trim all four edges of the sample fabric before beginning.

• Wind elastic thread on the bobbin.

• Place in bobbincase and adjust tension if necessary.

• Select stitch #1 - SL 4mm to 5mm - center needle position - upper tension 7-9.

• Draw guidelines on the fabric, spacing them evenly apart.

• Sew from the right side of the fabric.

• Keep rows flat as sewing.

• When finished, steam press the sample, holding the iron over the fabric with the elastic
side up. Do not touch the iron to the fabric.

• Leave the fabric flat until dry.

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ELASTIC THREAD IN THE BOBBIN

Fabric: Rayon Challis - 12” x 4”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing

Elastic thread (bobbin)

Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Other: Black Latch or secondary bobbin case

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NARROW CASING ELASTIC

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 9” x 4”

12” of 1/8” or ¼” cotton elastic

Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

• Trim all four edges of the sample fabric before beginning.

• Select the Universal Stitch #15; adjust width to clear the elastic.

• Measure and mark the elastic for amount needed. Allow a 2” tail at both ends.

• Draw a line on the wrong side of the fabric where the elastic is to go (this couldbe the line on a
pattern where a casing is suggested).

• Place the elastic over the line and under the foot and needle - sew a few straight stitches backward
and forward to secure the elastic.

• Stretch the elastic gently to give the fullness desired.

• When you reach the other end, secure in the same manner as the beginning.

• Even out the gathers.

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GATHERING FOOT #16

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 10” x 4”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing
Presser Foot: Wide Gathering Foot #16 (optional accessory) or

Extra-wide Gathering Foot #16 (optional accessory)

• Trim all four edges of the sample fabric before beginning.

• Select stitch #1 - lengthen to 5mm.

• Place fabric to be gathered under the foot.

• Guide the fabric, keeping the raw edges even with the right edge of the foot, or use the seam
lines on the throat plate.

Notes:

- There are three things that effect the amount of gathers:

1. Fabric Weight - The lighter weight the fabric, the easier to gather.

2. Tension - Increased upper tension will increase the amount of gathering.

3. Stitch Length - The longer the stitch length, the tighter the gathers.

- Use the basting stitch or the long stitch function to increase gathers in heavier weight fabrics
such as woolens and corduroys.

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RUFFLER

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing
Presser Foot: Ruffler Attachment #86 (optional accessory)

• Trim fabric with wavy rotary cutter before sewing.

• Select stitch #1 - SL 1mm-5mm. The longer the stitch length, the deeper the pleat.

• Needle position is center.

• Set the adjustment lever on the attachment at 1.

• Place the fabric to be ruffled between the two blades, snugging it against the edge of the
seam guide slot, making sure it is slightly beyond the needle.

• Lower the foot and begin sewing.

• If gathers are too deep, turn the adjusting screw counter clockwise; if too shallow, turn the
screw clockwise.

Note: Loosening the needle tension to 3-4 will allow some subsequent
adjustment of the fullness.

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PINTUCKS AND DOUBLE NEEDLES

Fabric: Lightweight cotton, 6” x 4”, starched
Needle: Double (size should correspond to foot)
Thread: All-purpose sewing
Presser Foot: Pintuck Foot #30, #31, #32, or #33 (optional accessories)

• Select the desired presser foot and corresponding double needle:

- Pintuck Foot #30 - 3 groove - 4mm needle

- Pintuck Foot #31 - 5 groove - 3mm needle

- Pintuck Foot #32 - 7 groove - 2mm needle

- Pintuck Foot #33 - 9 groove - 1.6 needle

• Insert the double needle and thread with two different colors.

• Select the straight stitch #1 - SL 1.75mm-2mm.

• Sew at a slower speed and test the movement of the needle. You want to be sure it doesn’t hit the
presser foot.

• Top tension can be tightened to create more dimension.

• Start sewing in one corner and meander across the fabric.

• Position the previously sewn tuck in the groove of the foot and sew 6 more rows evenly spaced

across the fabric, as desired.

• Trim, press and mount the sample.

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CORDED PINTUCKS

Fabric: Lightweight cotton, 5” x 5”, starched

Gimp Cord

Needle: Double 3.0/80
Thread: All-purpose sewing
Presser Foot: 5 Groove Pintuck Foot #31 (optional accessory)

• Thread the cord through the hole in the needle plate.

Note: Cord should be colorfast and shrinkproof.

• Thread machine - same thread in both needles and the bobbin.

• Sew four random corners.

Turning Corners:

- When turning a corner it is not possible, with a double needle, to turn
completely in one operation.

- Sew to corner; needle in fabric, drop feed dogs.

- Turn ½ way, make 1 stitch, place needles in fabric, turn remainder of corner.

- Raise feed dogs and continue.

• Sew 2 points as on a leaf or star.

Turning Points

- Sew to corner; needle up.

- Pivot work carefully and lower needles back into same place; needles
have changed sides.

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PLEATS vs TUCKS

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 8” x 5”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-Purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern #1/1C

Edgestitch #10/10C (optional accessory)

Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C:

• Starting at the left edge and working across the 8” width, draw 4 lines for folding and
pressing. The first 2 lines are 2” apart, second 2 lines are 1¼” apart.

Note: By placing the fold even with the right edge of the foot and placing the needle
position all the way to the left to start, it is possible to get 9 different size pleats/tucks.

• Select Straight Stitch #1.

• Sew the first tuck, on the first line, with needle position all the way to the left.

• Second tuck, on second line, with needle position all the way to the right.

- Each position makes about a 1mm difference.

Edgestitch Foot #10/10C:

• Place the fold of the third pleat to the left of the center blade - right next to it.

• Move the needle position all the way to the left and sew.

• Position the fold of the last pleat in the same manner. Move the needle position to half left
and sew.

- Very small tucks/pleats are possible with this foot.

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LARGE TUCKS/PLEA TS

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 10” x 4”
Needle: 80/12 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. Cotton Embroidery
Presser Foot: Zipper Foot with Guide #14 (optional accessory)

Zipper foot #14 has a movable guide with 9 markings which ensure precise sewing of
a variety of different size tucks.

• Select stitch #1 - SL 2-5mm.

• Determine fold line of tuck. Fold on this line and press.

• Adjust the guide on the foot for the widest tuck possible.

• Place fabric under foot, positioning fold of tuck under the lip of the guide.

• Adjust Needle Position to correspond with notch on guide.

• Stitch tuck, allowing folded edge of fabric to feed into lip of guide.

• The Seam/Quilting Guide that comes with the machine, when attached to the foot, can create
a pleat up to 2¼” wide. Sew one tuck.

Notes:

- A left guide is available.

- Also available is a set of guides with a ruler attached; they can be used to create pleats up to
4” wide.

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DECORATIVE TUCKS

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 8” x 4”
Needle: 80/12 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. Cotton Embroidery,

Metallic, and matching cord

Presser Foot: Depends on technique

• Draw 4 lines about ¼” apart, across the width of the fabric.

• On the first line - create a tuck, about ¼”, using a decorative stitch.

• On the second line - sew a ¼” tuck using a metallic thread with a straight stitch.

• Cord the edge of this tuck with a metallic cord as in Section C - Corded Edge.

• On the third line create an inverted tuck with lace inserted into it.

- Place the edge of the lace against the drawn line, on the right side, and baste in place.

- Fold the fabric over the lace and press.

- Using Edgestitch Foot #10/10C, place the pressed fold against the left side of the center blade

- Move needle position to the left enough to catch the lace; stitch to the left of the basting line.

- Open out and press again.

• On the fourth line insert the lace with the tuck.

- Fold wrong sides together and press the last tuck.

- Place the edge of the lace in from the fold a scant ¼”.

- Using Foot #37 - the ¼” foot - stitch a tuck, catching the lace as you sew.

- Press the tuck toward the lace.

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Gather It Up and Tuck It Down

 Presser Feet:

 Embroidery Foot #6
 Edgestitch Foot #10/10C
 Zipper Foot With Guide #14
 Wide Gathering Foot #16
 Pintuck Feet

 #30 - 3 groove
 #31 - 5 groove
 #32 - 7 groove
 #33 - 9 groove

 Patchwork Foot #37 (is included with the 170 QPE)
 Double Needles
 Ruffler Attachment #86
 Feet-ures
 Guide Bar Set with Rulers
 Elastic thread
 Gimp cord
 Extra Bobbincase
 Accessory Box
 GooGone
 Sewing Iron
 Metallic Thread and Cord
 Wavy Rotary Cutter
 Ruler
 Cutting Mat
 Spray Sizing

BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

WISH LIST

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OWNER’S WORKBOOK

Section E

Miscellaneous Magic

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Zipper Insertion

Owner’s Manual page ____

Feet-ures, Unit B and D - center insertion
Feet-ures, Unit A, F and K - invisible

Mending Tears and Holes

Owner’s Manual page ____
Feet-ures, Unit C and K

Fringing

Feet-ures, Unit B

Fagoting

Feet-ures, Unit B

BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

SECTION E

Bundling

Feet-ures, Unit B

Lace Insertion

Feet-ures, Units C and K

Outline Quilting

Feet-ures, Unit H

Hand Look Quilt Stitch

Feet-ures, Units A and K

Triple Needles

Feet-ures, Units A and K

Wing Needles and Double Wing Needles

Feet-ures, Units A and K

Couching Cord

Feet-ures, Unit E

Bobbinwork Basics

Feet-ures, Units B, E, H

Piping

Feet-ures, Units C and L

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CENTERED ZIPPER

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 2 pieces, 4” x 8” each
Zipper: 5” or 6” Conventional
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing
Presser Feet: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C,

Zipper Foot #4, and
Zipper Foot with Guide #14 (optional accessory)

Attaching the Zipper:

• Using Foot #1/1C and stitch #1, sew the seam from the bottom
to where the zipper stop will be.

• Select Basting Stitch #21 and continue to within ½” from the
top of the seam.

• Change back to stitch #1; sew the rest of the way to secure.

• Press the seam open and place the right side of the zipper
against the seam allowance, so the zipper teeth are centered
over the seam.

• Pin or baste (using a temporary spray adhesive) each side of
the zipper to the seam allowance only.

• Change to Zipper Foot #4; adjust the needle position to the
right and to the left as needed to get close to the zipper teeth.

• Sew through the zipper tape and seam allowance only, from
the bottom to the top on each side.

• Pin or baste through all layers.

Topstitching the Zipper:

• Change to Zipper Foot with Guide #14.

Left Side:

• Adjust the seam guide on the foot so it is one groove to the
right of center and change the needle position to far left.

• Sewing from the right side of the fabric and starting at the
bottom, sink the needle into the seam.

• Sew out from the zipper stop about
sure the seam guide on the foot is lying in the ditch of the
seam.

• Sew up the left side of the zipper.

Right Side:

• Adjust seam guide on the foot so that it is one groove to the
left of center and change the needle position to far right.

• Repeat the previous steps, starting at the seam and sewing

to the right.

• Press and trim the sample. Mount it, attaching it only at the
top. You can then lift the sample and use it as a reference.

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Note: The invisible zipper can be used in place of
a conventional zipper when an uninterrupted design
line is desired.

• Mark the seam lines on the right side of fabric.

• Select Straight Stitch #1.

• Refer to the instructions with the zipper for placement

on the fabric.

• Open the zipper and press the coils flat, from the wrong
side, using the synthetic setting on the iron.

• Do not sew the seam first as with conventional zippers.
Zipper tapes are sewn to fabric sections first, then the
seam is sewn.

• With right sides together, baste or pin right zipper tape

to right garment piece, so coil is on the

• Using center needle position, place coil in right groove

of Foot #3. Sew until foot is stopped by the zipper pull.

Note: Needle should sew as close to coils as
possible without actually sewing into them.

• With right sides together, baste or pin left zipper tape to
left garment piece so that the coil is again on the
seam line.

• Check to be sure the zipper is not twisted.

• Place the coil in the left groove of the foot and complete
as with the right side.

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5

/8” seam line.

5

/8”

•To sew seam: Close the zipper. Using Zipper Foot #4,
place the fabric right sides together and stitch as close

to the zipper as possible, starting about ½” above the

bottom of the zipper. Backstitch to begin and sew about
2”; then change to Foot #1/1C to complete the seam.

• Press and trim the sample. Mount it, attaching it only at
the top. You can then lift the sample and use it as a
reference.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 2 pieces, 4” x 8” each
Zipper: 5” or 6” Invisible
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose sewing
Presser Feet: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C,

Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C, and
Zipper Foot #4

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MENDING TEARS AND HOLES

Fabric: Denim - 4” x 6”

Fusible Knit Stabilizer, 2” x 2”

Needle: 90/14 Universal or Jeans
Thread: To suit the fabric
Presser Feet: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C,

Automatic Buttonhole Foot #3A/3C,
and Darning Foot #9 (optional accessory)

Make 2 tears in the fabric, about 1” each. Make one hole about ½” round.

1. Select Automatic Mending Stitch #22 for the first tear.

• Attach Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C.

• Engage the “foot 3” symbol from the function bar.

• Sew the first row, the length of the tear - press the quick reverse button ([the first
length has been programmed).

• Sew the second row, the length of the tear - press the quick reverse button again
(second length programmed).

• Complete the darning program - the machine stops automatically.

2. Select Reinforced Mending Stitch #23 for the second tear.

• Use Automatic Buttonhole Foot #3A/3C this time.

• Insert the needle in the area to the left of the top of the tear.

• Sew the first vertical row - press the quick reverse button and the length is programmed.

• The machine will finish automatically.

3. Manual Darning of the hole with Foot #9.

• Bond the fusible knit interfacing on the wrong side of the hole.

• Select stitch #1 and attach Foot #9. Lower the feed dogs.

• Hoop fabric to prevent distortion. Stitch, moving the hoop without pressure.

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FRINGING

Fabric: Firm fabric - 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: Rayon Embroidery
Presser Feet: Tailor Tack Foot #7 (optional accessory)

Embroidery Foot #6 (optional accessory)

• Select stitch #2 - SW 2mm and SL satin - Tension 1 - Tailor Tack Foot #7.

• Put a contrast all-purpose sewing thread in the bobbin.

• Turn under ½” seam allowance on both pieces of fabric and press.

• Butt the folds together under the center of the presser foot, with right sides up.

• Guide fabric while sewing, so needle swings pierce both fabric pieces.

• Carefully remove the bobbin thread and gently separate the two fabrics, leaving them joined
by strands of the upper thread.

• Change to Embroidery Foot #6.

• Sew halfway with Stitch #406 and the remainder with Stitch #345.

• Engage the Mirror Image function, if needed.

• Anchor the fringe to the fabric edge by oversewing it.

• After fringe is secured on one side, the other fabric can be pulled away.

• Trim excess seam allowance from wrong side if needed.

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• Select stitch #2 - SW 2mm and SL satin - Tension 1 - Tailor Tack Foot #7.

• Place fabrics right sides together; sew with a 5/8” seam on a 5” side.

• Sew slowly - adjust motor to ½ speed.

• When finished sewing the seam, pull the two layers firmly apart and press open.

• Change to Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C for better visibility - may need to stabilize the
stitching area to prevent tunneling.

• From the right side, anchor the fagoting to the fabric on either side with a decorative stitch
through the seam allowance. (Stitch #414 and #334 are used in the illustration.) Adjust width
and length as desired; engage Mirror Image as needed.

• Trim any excess seam allowance if needed.

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FAGOTING

Fabric: Firm fabric - 2 pieces, 3 ”x 5” each
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: Embroidery
Presser Feet: Tailor Tack Foot #7 (optional accessory)

Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C

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BUNDLING

Fabric: Firm fabric - 2 pieces, 3” x 5” each
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: Embroidery
Presser Feet: Tailor Tack Foot #7 (optional accessory)

Open Embroidery #20/20C
Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

• Select stitch #2 - SW 2mm and SL satin - Tension 1 - Tailor Tack Foot #7.

• Place fabrics right sides together; sew with a 5/8” seam on a 5” side.

• Sew slowly - adjust motor to ½ speed.

• When finished sewing the seam, pull the two layers firmly apart and press open.

• Change to Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C for better visibility - may need to stabilize the
stitching area to prevent tunneling.

• From the right side, anchor the fagoting to the fabric on either side with a decorative stitch
through the seam allowance. (Stitch #337 and #413 are used in the illustration.) Adjust width
and length as desired; engage Mirror Image as needed.

• Trim any excess seam allowance if needed.

• To “bundle” the fagoting stitches into groups: Select the Triple Straight Stitch #6 - change to
Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C; center the foot over the fagoting stitches and sew down the
middle.

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LACE INSERTION

Fabric: Lightweight cotton 4” x 6”

9” insertion lace, ½ ”- ¾” wide

Needle: 75/11 Universal
Thread: 60 wt. cotton
Presser Feet: Edgestitch Foot #10/10C (optional accessory)

• Pin or baste the lace in position.

First Run:

• Select stitch #1 - SL 1.5mm-2mm with the needle position set at half left.

• Place the edge of the lace to the left edge of the guide on the foot and sew.

• Sew the right side in a like manner using the needle position set at half right.

• From the back, carefully cut through the fabric, in the middle of the two
rows of stitching.

• Press the fabric back against the straight stitch.

Second Run:

• Select stitch #2 - SW 1.5mm-2mm and SL 0.75mm-1mm with the needle position set at half left.

• Place edge of lace first to the left of the blade, with the needle in the half left position, and sew the
zigzag stitch over the edge of the lace and the previously sewn straight stitch.

• Sew the right side in a like manner using the needle position set at half right.

• Trim surplus fabric from the wrong side.

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OUTLINE QUILTING

Fabric: Cheater block or fabric with large design
Backing: 1 piece coordinating fabric, same size as fabric
Batting: 1 piece low-loft, same size as fabric
Needle: 90/14 Quilting
Thread: Cotton embroidery for bobbin

Monofilament for needle

Presser Foot: Leather Roller Foot #55 (optional accessory)

• Foot #55 allows for easy maneuvering of curves and tight areas.

• Select stitch #1 - SL 2.5mm-3.5mm - tension is loosened to about 3-4 - needle position is to the
left, depending on the desired look.

• Engage the Needle Stop Down function.

• Sandwich the batting between the top fabric and the backing. Pin or baste in place.

• Bring the bobbin thread to the top of the fabric and select the Securing function to secure the
beginning stitch. Sew; turn the Securing function off. Clip the thread tails.

• Stitch in a continuous line around the outside edge of the design or pattern in the fabric. Move the
fabric in any direction to follow the design.

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HAND LOOK QUILT STITCH

Fabric: 2 pieces solid cotton - 4” x 6” each
Batting: 1 piece, low-loft - 4” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Quilting
Thread: Cotton embroidery for bobbin

Monofilament for needle

Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual page___

Note: When using the hand Look Quilt Stitch, the cotton embroidery bobbin thread is pulled to the top
of the quilt while the monofilament thread “disappears”, simulating the look of a hand-sewn running
stitch.

• Select the Hand Look Quilt Stitch #328.

• Depending on the fabric you may need to increase the upper tension to 6-9.

• Balance can be used to adjust the stitch as needed.

• This stitch can be sewn in any needle position.

• If monofilament thread breaks, decrease the tension.

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TRIPLE NEEDLE WORK

Fabric: Firmly woven - 6” x 5”
Stabilizer: Firm Tear-away or Cutaway - 6” x 5”
Needle: Triple
Thread: Embroidery, 3 different colors
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C or

Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C

• Thread each needle with a different color thread.

• Select 5 different stitches and sew across the fabric randomly.

• When doing decorative needle work you must sew slowly - change motor to ½ speed.

Note:To be sure the needles will not strike the foot, turn the handwheel to
“walk” the machine through the first stitch. Narrow the width as neede to
avoid breaking needles.

• Trim threads, then trim sample edges, and mount below.

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WINGING IT ONCE

AND

WINGING IT TWICE

Fabric: Broadcloth, 6” x 5”, starched
Needles: Wing/120

Double Wing

Thread: Embroidery
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern #1/1C or

Open Embroidery #20/20C

Single Wing Needle

• Select Stitch #711.

• Stitch from corner to corner; the holes will open better on the bias.

Note:To be sure the needles will not strike the foot, turn the handwheel to

“walk” the machine through the first stitch. Narrow the width as neede to
avoid breaking needles.

Double Wing Needle

• Use a different color of thread in each needles.

• Select the Blindstitch #9 and sew to the right or left of the single wing needle stitch.

• Select Stitch #301.

• Sew rows on either side of the last ones.

• Select Stitch #303.

• Sew rows on either side of the last ones.

• Play with other stitches to get different effects.

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Fabric: Firmly woven - 6” x 6”
Stabilizer: Firm Tear-away or Cutaway - 2 pieces, 6” x 5” each
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: Assorted decorative threads

Presser Feet: Cording Foot #22 - 3 groove (optional accessory) and

• Select the thread used according to the look that is desired.

• Load the feet by moving the black latch away from the top of the foot and placing the cords in
the slots. Cords should feed in from the top and go into theg rooves on the bottom of the foot.
Load all cords in the same manner.

• Secure the latch across the top of the foot to hold the cords in place.

• To stabilize the fabric you may need more than one layer of stabilizer.

• Try using different colors of cording in each groove.

• Select stitches #414, #405, #417, and 2 other stitches of your choice.

• Sew in different directions across the fabric.

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

COUCHING CORDS

Assorted decorative cords
Cording Foot #25 - 5 groove (optional accessory)

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BOBBINWORK BASICS

Fabric: Firmly woven - 6” x 4”
Stabilizer: Iron-on, 6” x 4”
Needle: 90/14 Universal
Thread: Pearl Crown Rayon and

Monofilament

Presser Foot: Embroidery Foot #6 (optional accessory) or

Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C
Secondary Bobbincase (optional accessory)

• Press the stabilizer onto the wrong side of the fabric.

• Wind the decorative thread on the bobbin and insert it into the case.

• Thread the needle with monofilament; upper tension may need to be loosened for certain
decorative threads.

•Sew from the wrong side of the fabric for this technique.

•Select stitch #332 and sew randomly across the fabric.

Notes: - When using heavier threads the stitch length should be longer.

- Never use the sewing bobbin case when using heavier threads, as it may
cause the tension spring to stretch and affect regular sewing; use a Black Latch
or secondary bobbin case

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PIPED PORTIONS

Fabric: Firmly woven - 6” x 4”

Cotton - 2” x 15”
Cable Cord - 18”

Stabilizer: 1 piece iron-on
Needle: 90/14 Universal
Thread: All-Purpose
Presser Foot: Bulky Overlock #12/12C

• Fabric strips should be cut 1¼” plus the circumference of the cord being used.

• Trim the 2” strip, if needed, to work with the cording being used. This should result in

5

a

/8” seam, once the piping is made.

Note: Strips should be cut on the bias; however, crosswise and lengthwise
strips may be used if there are no corners to be turned or curves to maneuver.

• Fold the wrong side of the fabric around the filler cord and position it under the presser
foot with the folded edge to the left and the cord under the center of the foot so it rides
in the large groove.

• Using a straight stitch and with the needle in one of the right positions, begin stitching. The
stitches will be alongside the cord, creating a 5/8” seam.

• Once the piping is made, it is ready to be inserted into a seam.

• Cut the other fabric piece in half, making two 2” x 6” pieces.

• Insert the piping using the same foot.

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 Presser Feet and Accessories:

 Embroidery Foot #6
 Tailor Tack Foot #7
 Darning Foot #9
 Edgestitch Foot #10/10C
 Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C
 Zipper Foot with Guide #14
 Cording Foot #22
 Cording Foot #25
 Leather Roller Foot #55

 Blacklatch Bobbincase
 Feet-ures
 Spray Stabilizer
 Decorative Threads

 Metallic

 Rayon

 Cotton
 Monofilament Thread

 Smoke

 Clear
 Spring Hoops for mending
 Thread Stand
 Blunt Point Scissors for lace
 Needles

 Single Wing

 Double Wing

 Triple

 Embroidery
 Cotton Batting
 Fusible Interfacing
 BERNINA Ironing System

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WISH LIST

Miscellaneous Magic

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OWNER’S WORKBOOK

Section F

Creative Sewing

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SECTION F

CREA TIVE SEWING

The following two samplers will introduce you to a few methods of surface embellishment.

SAMPLER #1 - Fringed Flower

Secure ribbon in one step using a double needle.
Feet-ures, Units A and K

Create petals for the flower using Tailor Tack Foot #7.
Feet-ures, Unit B

Sew in circles using the Circular Embroidery Attachment #83!
Feet-ures, Unit H

SAMPLER #2 - The Many Faces Of Applique

Basic Applique skills.
Feet-ures, Units A, D, K and L

Using eyelets creatively.
Feet-ures, Units A and K

How to do the Bernina Chain.
Feet-ures, Units A and K

Sewing with metallic threads.
Feet-ures, Units A and K

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SAMPLER #1/1C - FRINGED FLOWER

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Creating the Leaves

- Use different widths of ribbon for the leaves and stem. Ex: use 4mm for stem and 2mm for leaves.

- Grosgrain ribbon is recommended for the first try; silk ribbon can also be used.

- Using the drawing on the previous page as a guide, position ribbon for the leaves first. Glue or pin
in place.

- Select a double needle that corresponds to the width of the selected ribbon.

- When the tip of the leaf is reached, stop sewing and secure the stitches.

- Fold the ribbon over and begin sewing again at fold.

- Repeat for the other leaf. Be sure they are close enough so the stem will cover the raw edges.

- Position the stem and stitch in place.

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

FRINGED FLOWER

Fabric: Denim, 9” x 9”

9” of ribbon,
2mm and 4mm wide grosgrain ribbon

Stabilizer: 1 piece tear-away, 9” x 9”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery

Double/sizes to match grosgrain ribbon.

Thread: 30 wt. cotton
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Tailor Tack Foot #7(optional accessory)
Button Sew-on Foot #18
Circular Embroidery Attachment #83 (optional accessory)

Other: Large, flat 2-hole button

1

/8” wide

Creating the Fringe for the Flower

- Position the Circular Embroidery Attachment #83 on the machine and set it for a 2.5” circle.

- Mark the center of the flower on the fabric and position it on the pin of the attachment.

- Attach Tailor Tack foot #7 - select stitch #2 - SW 2mm and SL satin - Tension, 1.

- Sew in a circle. When the beginning is reached, overlap the stitching about ½”.

- Gently remove the stitches from the foot.

- Use a seam sealant to secure the thread tails.

- With fine embroidery scissors, cut the loops of the stitches at the top.

- Carefully lay the stitches flat and with a narrow, close zigzag, sew down the middle of the cut
stitches to secure the threads in place.

- Fluff up the fringe around the stitching.

Center of Flower

- Center a piece of narrow ribbon inside the fringed circle.

- Attach it to the fabric with a Stitch #60 and Button Sew-on Foot #18 (drop the feed dog).

- Thread the ends of the ribbon thru the holes of a 2-hole button that will become the center of
the flower. Tie the ribbon in a bow.

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SAMPLER #2 - BASIC APPLIQUE

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

BASIC APPLIQUE

Fabric: Denim, 9” x 9”

6” x 6” for fish

Stabilizer: Paper-backed fusible web

1 piece tear-away, 9” x 9”

Needle: 90/14 Embroidery

90/14 Metallic
Double/sizes to match grosgrain ribbon.

Thread: Silver metallic thread

Ivory YLI Designer 6
Opalescent thread
30 wt. Cotton Embroidery thread to match fish

Presser Foot: Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C

Eyelet Attachment #82 with Foot #92 (optional accessory)

Basic Applique

- Trace the fish onto the paper-backed fusible web.

- Fuse the web to the wrong side of the fish fabric.

- Cut the fish from the fabric.

- Peel paper backing off and press in position.

- Use Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C so the edge to be sewn is visible.

Fish Line

- Use the BERNINA Chain technique - see page 97 for directions.

- Use Designer 6 (Ivory) thread.

- Pull the thread to the back and use seam sealant.

Air Bubbles

- Use the Eyelet Attachment #82 or the preprogrammed eyelets.

- Create a few bubbles using Yenmet thread.

Hook

- Use Metallic thread.

- Use the BERNINA Chain technique with a short stitch length.

- Pull threads to the back and use seam sealant.

-Select applique stitch of your choice and sew around the fish.

-Use a tiny button for the eye.

-Create a mouth with straight stitches and a short stitch length.

Writing

- Program in “What A Catch !”

- These words could go in the upper left of the picture.

- Program the word “BERNINA” and sew it in the center of the fish.

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Threads

• Needle: rayon, metallic, cordonnet, or polyester; depends on the look desired.

• Bobbin: lightweight bobbin thread or 60 wt. cotton.

• Cords: Embroidery floss, Pearl Crown Rayon, gold or silver cords, braided cord, yarn,

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

BERNINA CHAIN

Presser Foot: Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C
Stitch: Straight Stitch #1/1C
Stitch Width: 0mm
Stitch Length: As desired
Needle Position: Center
Single Pattern: Yes
Needle Down: Yes

narrow ribbon, etc.

Directions

• Draw the desired design on the surface of the fabric

• Cut decorative threads/cord 3x the desired finished length.

• Sink the needle into the fabric.

• Fold the decorative thread/cord in half and place the center point behind the needle, pulling
the ends forward, one on each side of the needle.

• Secure the decorative thread/cord to the fabric by sewing 2-3 forward and reverse stitches
over the center point.

• Stop sewing with the needle in the fabric in front of the cord.

• Pull the cords to the front of the needle, overlapping them to form an “X”.

• Stitch over the crossed cords to secure; the machine stops at the end of the pattern repeat.

• Continue stitching in this manner, following the drawn design lines.

Hints

• Vary the number of stitches to produce different effects.

• Use Memory or Pattern End for automatic stitching.

• Fewer stitches and a shorter stitch length = tight, braided look.

• Use various stitch lengths.

• Double Needle can also be used.

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 Presser Feet and Accessories:

 Tailor Tack Foot #7
 Button Sew-On Foot #18
 Circlular Embroidery Attachment #83

 Eyelet Attachment #82 with Foot #92
 Feet-ures
 Needles

 Double_____

 Metallic_____

 Embroidery_____
 Threads

 30 wt. Cotton Embroidery

 Designer 6 - Ivory

 Metallic - Silver

 Opalescent
 Embroidery Scissors
 Wonder Under paper-backed fusible web
 Bernina
 Fabric Glue Stick
 Bernina® Thread Stand
 Seam Sealant
 Feet-ures

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Ironing System

BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

WISH LIST

CREA TIVE SEWING

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

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BERNINA

artista 170 QPE/180

OWNER’S WORKBOOK

Section G

Programming Pizzazz

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