SINGER 14U285B User Manual
14
U 10 STITCH OVERLOOK MACHINE
Operator’s
Guide
14U
10 STITCH OVERLOOK MACHINE
PREFACE
Thank you for your purchase of this sewing machine.
This machine will provide you with excellent performance in sewing from light to heavy material (lawn to
denim). Please refer to this booklet for proper use and optimum service.
To get the most out of your sewing machine, read the entire operator’s manual before attempting to
operate the machine. Then familiarize yourself with the machine by following the operator’s manual page
by page.
Safety Cautions;
® Be sure that the electrical voltage of the socket outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated
voltage of the motor.
® Disconnect the power-line plug from the socket outlet when changing needles, presser foot or
throat plate, or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of start
ing the machine by accidentally pressing the speed controller.
* Do not pull the fabric while you are stitching as this may deflect the needle, causing it to
break.
® Before cleaning your machine, disconnect the power-line plug from the socket outlet.
® Do not attempt to adjust the motor bell. Contact your nearest Service Center should any
adjustment be required.
® Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place
anything on top of it.
® When sewing, closely watch the area being sewn to avoid injuries from needles and knives.
® Use only the handle to lift and move the machine.
To ensure that you are always provided with the most modern sewing capabilities, the manufacturer
reserves the right to change the appearance, design or accessories of tliis sewing machine when considered
necessary without notification or obligation.
* A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY
Copyright ©1988 SINGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY
All Rights Reserved Throughout The World
CONTENTS
1.
Selection of stitches ........................................................................................................................................... 2
2.
Handy reference chart........................................................................................................................................4
3.
Principal parts.................................................................................................................................................... 5
4.
Preparation for sewing...................................................................................................................................... 6
5.
Preparation for threading................................................................................................................................. 7
• Setting up the thread guide holder............................................................................................................ 7
• Needle positions........................................................................................................................................... 8
• How to insert the needles............................................................................................................................. 8
• How to open looper cover ........................................................................................................................... 9
• How to remove cylinder cover.................................................................................................................... 9
• How to thread the machine ........................................................................................................................ 9
• How to change threads .............................................................................................................................. 10
• Chain off and test sew.............................................................................................................................. 10
6.
How to sew double chainstitch...................................................................................................................... 11
7.
How to sew two-thread overlock and overedge............................................................................................ 14
8.
How to sew three-thread standard overlock, flatlock and wrapped edge overlock
9.
How to sew three-thread ultra-stretch mock safety stitch
10.
How to sew four-thread ultra-stretch mock safety stitch
11.
How to sew four-thread safety stitch ............................................................................................................ 25
12.
How to sew five-thread safety stitch.............................................................................................................. 26
13.
How to adjust stitch length............................................................................................................................. 27
14.
How to fine-tune overedge seam width.......................................................................................................... 27
15.
How to sew rolled hem ................................................................................................................................... 28
16.
Differential feed (with differential feed machine only).............................................................................. 31
• Gathered overedge .................................................................................................................................... 31
• Stretch overedge......................................................................................................................................... 32
17.
Free arm sewing (tubular work).................................................................................................................... 33
18.
Seam guide lines
19.
Edge guide
20.
Three-thread flatlock stitch ........................................................................................................................... 34
21.
Two-thread flatlock stitch.............................................................................................................................. 34
22.
Two or three-thread blindstitching............................................................................................................... 35
23.
Braiding by chaining-off................................................................................................................................. 35
24.
Two or three-thread pin tucking ................................................................................................................... 36
25.
Reinforced (tapes) overedge stitching........................................................................................................... 36
26.
Applying elastic................................................................................................................................................ 37
27.
Turning square corners .................................................................................................................................. 38
28.
How to replace stationary knife...................................................................................................................... 39
29.
How to exchange light bulb ............................................................................................................................ 39
30.
How to adjust presser foot pressure............................................................................................................... 39
31.
Lubrication....................................................................................................................................................... 40
32.
Reasons for poor stitches and how to make adjustment............................................................................. 41
33.
Relationship between cloth, thread and needle............................................................................................ 42
34.
Accessories........................................................................................................................................................ 43
35.
Specification..................................................................................................................................................... 43
...
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Page
19
23
24
1. Selection of stitches
This machine is capable of producing various types of stitches according to the combination of needle
positions, threading methods, tension adjustment and the use of convertible right looper/spreader.
Stitch Type
(jlj Double
chainstitch
(2) Two-Thread
Wrapped Edge
Overlock
(3) Two-Thread
Overedge
A 1-needle 2-thread straight stitch is
used for construction or decorative
stitching. Seams also can be sewn at
desired distance from edge of fabric by
disengaging the right looper and
movable knife.
1-needle 2-thread stitch is used for
seaming lightweight or stretch fabrics.
Also ideal for rolled hemming. Also,
a 3.5mm and 5.7mm overlock seam
width can be obtained by changing the
needle position.*
1-needle 2-thread stitch is used for
overedging common fabrics. It is also
ideal for flatlock (butted or lapped)
seams and blind hemming. Also, a
3.5mm and 5.7mm overedge seam
width can be obtained by changing the
needle position.*
Reference
Pages
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
14
15
16
18
(T) Three-Thread
Overlock
(S) Three-Thread
Flatlock
(6) Three-Thread
Wrapped Edge
Overlock
1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for
overedging and seaming on common
fabrics. Also, a 3.5mm and 5.7mm
overlook seam width can be obtained
by changing the needle position.*
1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for
butted or lapped seams and ornamental
stitching with decorative thread. Also,
a 3.5mm and 5.7mm flatlock width
can be obtained by changing the needle
position.*
1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for
sewing narrow rolled hems or
ornamental edges. Also, a 3.5mm and
5.7mm wrapped overlook seam width
can be obtained by changing the needle
position.*
19
20
19
21
19
22
Stitch Type
Reference
Pages
(7) Three-Thread
Ultra-Stretch
Mock
Safety Stitch
(D Four-Thread
Ultra-Stretch
Mock
Safety Stitch
(D Four-Thread
Safety Stitch
@ Five-Thread
Safety Stitch
2-needle 3-thread stitch which is
ideal for lightweight, extremely
stretchy fabrics such as tricot and
spandex.
2-needle 4-thread stitch which is
ideal for medium to heavy weight
stretchy fabrics such as double knits
and swim wear.
This 4-thread stitch is a safety stitch
made up of combined 2-thread over
edge and double chainstitch.
Overedging and seaming can be done
in one operation on non-stretch
fabrics.
This 5-thread stitch is a safety stitch
made up of combined 3-thread
overlock and double chainstitch.
Overedging and seaming can be
done in one operation on non
stretch fabrics.
23
24
25
26
* Depending on the needle positions used, this machine can sew 2-thread and 3-thread standard width
3.5mm overedge and a 5,7mm wide overedge seams.
Also, for overedging heavyweight fabrics, the seam width can be increased still more by turning the over
edge seam width adjustment knob. (See page 27)
2. Handy reference chart
Stitch Type
Needle
Positions
Tension Dial: Numbers shown are average
settings on medium weight fabric with
standard #80 Polyester thread
Blue
Green Orange Yellow Purple
Right Looper or
Spreader
(T) Double
Chainstitch
Two-Thread
Wrapped Edge
Overlock
(3) Two-Thread
Overedge
® Three-Thread
Overlock
Three-Thread
Flatlock
3.5mm
5.7mm
3.5mm
5.7mm
3.5mm Q
5.7mm
3.5mm
5.7mm
O O
3.5
5.0
O
4.0
1.0
O
1.5
O
O
3.0
2.5
2.0
2.5
1.5
1.0
4.0
4.5
2.0
2.0
1.5
O
0.5
O
0.5
6.0
3.0
9.0
8.0
Non-operating
Position
Spreader
Spreader
Spreader
Spreader
Looper
Looper
Looper
Looper
® Three-Thread
Wrapped Edge
Overlock
Three-Thread
(Z)
Ultra-St retch
Mock
Safety Stitch
Four-Thread
Ultra-Stretch
Mock
Safety Stitch
(^0 Four-Thread
Safety Stitch
Five-Thread
Safety Stitch
3.5mm
5.7mm
O
2.5 1.0
O
4.0
4.0
3.5
O
3.5
3.5
2.0
2.5
1.0
2.5
0.5
2.0
2.0
6.0
5.5
1.5
2.0
3.0
2.0 1.5
1.5
Looper
Looper
Spreader
Looper
Spreader
Looper
The thread tension becomes tighter as the dials are turned to higher numbers. The tension settings shown
on this page as well as throughout the operator’s manual are suggested guides. Adjust thread tensions to
suit the fabric and size of thread used. For best results make tension adjustments in small increments of
no greater than half a number at a time.
® When chainstitching under conditions given in Nos. ii) . and ;il; - set stitch length to over 2min.
4. Preparation for sewing
Connect the machine plug to the electrical receptacle of your machine and the power line plug to the wall
receptacle.
For 220/240V
Power switch
(used also for light switch)
Push upper side ("I" mark)
to turn "ON".
Push lower side ("O" mark) is visible
to turn "OFF..
For 120V
Power switch
(used also for light switch)
When the switch is ON,
the red mark on the knob
Power line plug
Wall receptacle
To run the machine and control the speed, press the speed controller. The harder you press, the faster the
machine will sew. To stop the machine from sewing, remove your foot from the speed controller.
Caution:
® Be sure that the electrical voltage of the socket outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage
of the motor.
® Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything
on top of it when not in use.
® Disconnect the power-line plug from the socket outlet when changing needles, presser feet or throat
plates, or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine
by accidentally pressing the speed controller.
• Before cleaning your machine, disconnect the power-fine plug from the socket outlet.
5. Preparation for threading
• Setting up the thread guide holder
Extend the thread guide holder as far as possible
and set the thread guides so that they are located
right above the spool pins.
Place the thread on the spool stand as shown in the
figure at the left.
When using synthetic threads that easily spill off the
cone, slip the anti-spill sleeve furnished with the
machine over the thread from the bottom of the
cone leaving the thread end hanging free at the top
of the anti-spill sleeve as shown above.
When using a regular thread spool, fit the
spool cap supplied with the machine onto
the thread spool as shown at left.
• Needle Positions
Three needles can be inserted to the needle clamp on this
machine as shown in the sketch but only one or two
needles are to be used for sewing. Do not attempt to use
three needles.
A. Overedge right needleB. Overedge left needle—
C. Chainstitch needle
_____________________________
-O
The Operator’s Guide refers to different needle positions by illustrating the needle clamp as shown in the
following examples:
Note: When both the left and right overedge needles arc inserted, the left needle will be slightly higher
than the right.
How to insert the needles
Use Singer needles Cat. No. 2054 available in sizes #14 and #10.
To remove the needles:
• Be sure the power line plug is disconnected from the wall socket.
• Turn the hand wheel over toward you until the needles are at their highest position. Loosen the
needle set screws with the small screwdriver and remove the needles.
To replace the needles:
• Insert the needles into the needle clamp as far as they will go with the flat surface to the rear
and firmly tighten the needle set screws.
Note: One screw holds in both the left and right overedge needles.
How to open looper cover
Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing.
(T) Push the cover to the right as far as
it will go and
(D Pull cover down toward you.
' How to remove cylinder cover
To replace cover
© While pulling the cylinder cover to the left,
(2) Lift cover upward and off the machine.
■K' Do not hold the cylinder cover when lifting or carrying the machine.
© Place tab A under the throat plate.
@ Press cover downward to the right.
How to thread the machine
To thread the machine correctly, simply follow the steps on the following pages making reference to the
threading chart on the inner side of the looper cover showing the threading paths in different colors.
• How to change threads
When you wish to change the chainstitch
needle thread, left overedge needle
thread, right overedge needle thread, left
looper thread, right looper thread or
chainstitch looper thread with a different
thread, the following steps will make the
changing convenient.
(1) Cut the thread near the spool and tie
the end to the thread you wish to
change to as shown in figure at right.
(2) Raise presser foot.
(3) Note tension reference numbers.
(4) Turn the tension dials down toward
the (—) mark until the dial stops and
draw the thread out so that the tie
knot of the threads extend about
5cm (2 inches) from the presser foot.
When drawing needle thread through
the needle eye, stop the tie knot
before the needle eye, cut the thread
and pass it through the needle eye.
(5) Return tension dials to reference
numbers.
Chain off and test sew
Thread cutter
When the machine is completely threaded,
turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 turns
while holding the 4 threads applying a slight
tension as shown in figure at left.
After chaining off, make a test stitch on a
sample of your fabric so that you can adjust
the thread tensions correctly.
After completing the
seam, chain off approx.
5 cm (2 inches) as
shown in figure at left
and cut thread with the
thread cutter on the
presser foot.
10
6. How to sew double chainstitch
The double chainstitch is sewn with 2 threads, one needle and one looper. Normally, this machine trims
the fabric edge while the seam is being sewn however, a chainstitch seam can be placed at a desired
distance from edge of fabric by putting the knife in a non-operating position, disengaging the right looper
and installing the chainstitch seam width gage.
(1) Move knife into non-operating position
• Turn the hand wheel over toward you until the movable knife is at its lowest position and set it in the
non-operating position as shown in the sketch below.
Push the movable knife holder to the right as
far as it will go and turn the knob in the
direction shown.
(2) Disengage right looper
• Turn hand wheel over toward you until right looper is
at its lowest position.
• With the large screwdriver, turn right looper lock screw
counterclockwise until it comes out of right looper
driving lever.
• Pull out the screw with your fingers until it stops.
To re-engage right looper
• Turn hand wheel toward you until right looper driving
block is at its highest position.
• Lift right looper driving lever at point A and hold in
place as you turn screw clockwise to tighten.
Right looper driving
block
As shown above, the movable knife will
be in a non-operating position.
(3) Remove knife cover and install chainstitch seam width gage.
11
(4) Threading for chainstitch
• To thread the chainstitch looper
Open looper cover. Thread chainstitch looper in the order (f) to (9) as shown. (Purple thread
path)
While holding thread with finger, pass it
between the tension discs and pull thread
down to make certain it is properly
located in between the tension discs.
• Draw about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread from
(5) To thread the chainstitch needle
Thread the chainstitch needle thread in the order (T) to (9) as shown. (Blue path)
While holding thread with finger,
pass it between the tension discs
and puli thread down to make
certain it is properly located in be
tween the tension discs.
when threading looper thread hole (7) > (D •
the looper thread hole.
• Use tweezer to thread eye
d).
• Draw about 5 cm (2 inches)
of thread from needle eye.
(6) Correct thread tensions for double chainstitch
Be sure the threads are correctly threaded otherwise
proper tension cannot be obtained.
Set each tension dial to settings shown below and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Blue
2.0
3.5
6.0
Green
Tension Dial
Orange
1
Y ellow
L
Purple
1.5
1.5
1.5
Chainstitch needle thread tension dial (blue)
Chainstitch looper thread tension dial (purple)
Adjust thread tensions to suit your fabric making reference to table below.
When needle thread is too loose
Note: When adjusting tension dials, make
your adjustments in small iiicrcmcnts of no
greater than half a number at a time. (For
example 2.0 to 2.5)
Turn needle thread tension dial (blue)
toward the (+) mark.
Or, turn chainstitch looper thread tension
dial (purple) toward the (—) mark.
13
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