WMH Tool Group, Inc., warrants every product it sells. If one of our tools needs service or repair, one of our Authorized Service
Centers located throughout the United States can give you quick service. In most cases, any of these WMH Tool Group
Authorized Service Centers can authorize warranty repair, assist you in obtaining parts, or perform routine maintenance and
major repair on your POWERMATIC
MORE INFORMATION
WMH Tool Group is consistently adding new products to the line. For complete, up-to-date product information, check with your
local WMH Tool Group distributor, or visit powermatic.com.
WARRANTY
POWERMATIC products carry a limited warranty which varies in duration based upon the product.
WHAT IS COVERED?
This warranty covers any defects in workmanship or materials subject to the exceptions stated below. Cutting tools, abrasives
and other consumables are excluded from warranty coverage.
WHO IS COVERED?
This warranty covers only the initial purchaser of the product.
WHAT IS THE PERIOD OF COVERAGE?
The general POWERMATIC warranty lasts for the time period specified in the product literature of each product.
WHAT IS NOT COVERED?
The Five Year Warranty does not cover products used for commercial, industrial or educational purposes. Products with a Five
Year Warranty that are used for commercial, industrial or education purposes revert to a One Year Warranty. This warranty does
not cover defects due directly or indirectly to misuse, abuse, negligence or accidents, normal wear-and-tear, improper repair or
alterations, or lack of maintenance.
HOW TO GET SERVICE
The product or part must be returned for examination, postage prepaid, to a location designated by us. For the name of the
location nearest you, please call 1-800-274-6848.
You must provide proof of initial purchase date and an explanation of the complaint must accompany the merchandise. If our
inspection discloses a defect, we will repair or replace the product, or refund the purchase price, at our option.
We will return the repaired product or replacement at our expense unless it is determined by us that there is no defect, or that the
defect resulted from causes not within the scope of our warranty in which case we will, at your direction, dispose of or return the
product. In the event you choose to have the product returned, you will be responsible for the handling and shipping costs of the
return.
HOW STATE LAW APPLIES
This warranty gives you specific legal rights; you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
LIMITATIONS ON THIS WARRANTY
WMH TOOL GROUP LIMITS ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES TO THE PERIOD OF THE LIMITED WARRANTY FOR EACH
PRODUCT. EXCEPT AS STATED HEREIN, ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES OR MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS ARE
EXCLUDED. SOME STATES DO NOT ALLOW LIMITATIONS ON HOW LONG THE IMPLIED WARRANTY LASTS, SO THE
ABOVE LIMITATION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU.
WMH TOOL GROUP SHALL IN NO EVENT BE LIABLE FOR DEATH, INJURIES TO PERSONS OR PROPERTY, OR FOR
INCIDENTAL, CONTINGENT, SPECIAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES ARISING FROM THE USE OF OUR PRODUCTS.
SOME STATES DO NOT ALLOW THE EXCLUSION OR LIMITATION OF INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, SO
THE ABOVE LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU.
WMH Tool Group sells through distributors only. The specifications in WMH catalogs are given as general information and are
not binding. Members of WMH Tool Group reserve the right to effect at any time, without prior notice, those alterations to parts,
fittings, and accessory equipment which they may deem necessary for any reason whatsoever.
®
tools. For the name of an Authorized Service Center in your area call 1-800-274-6848.
2
Table of Contents
Warranty and Service .............................................................................................................................. 2
Table of Contents .................................................................................................................................... 3
1. Read and understand the entire owner’s manual before attempting assembly or operation. Know the
limitations and hazards in using the jointer. Decals are placed on each machine as reminders of good
safety practice.
2. Read and understand the warnings posted on the machine and in this manual. Failure to comply with
all of these warnings may cause serious injury.
3. Replace the warning labels if they become obscured or removed.
4. This jointer is designed and intended for use by properly trained and experienced personnel only. If
you are not familiar with the proper and safe operation of a jointer, do not use until proper training and
knowledge have been obtained.
5. Do not use this jointer for other than its intended use. If used for other purposes, WMH Tool Group
disclaims any real or implied warranty and holds itself harmless from any injury that may result from
that use.
6. Use extra care in the location of the jointer in the shop. Place the machine so that potential kickback
area is not in line with aisles, doorway, wash stations, or other work areas.
7. Always wear approved safety glasses/face shields while using this jointer. Everyday eyeglasses only
have impact resistant lenses; they are not safety glasses.
8. Before operating this jointer, remove tie, rings, watches and other jewelry, and roll sleeves up past
the elbows. Remove all loose clothing and confine long hair. Non-slip footwear or anti-skid floor strips
are recommended. Do not wear gloves.
9. Wear ear protectors (plugs or muffs) during extended periods of operation.
10. Some dust created by power sanding, sawing, grinding, drilling and other construction activities
contains chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. Some examples
of these chemicals are:
• Lead from lead based paint.
• Crystalline silica from bricks, cement and other masonry products.
• Arsenic and chromium from chemically treated lumber.
Your risk of exposure varies, depending on how often you do this type of work. To reduce your
exposure to these chemicals, work in a well-ventilated area and work with approved safety
equipment, such as face or dust masks that are specifically designed to filter out microscopic
particles.
11. Do not operate this machine while tired or under the influence of drugs, alcohol or any medication.
12. Make certain the switch is in the OFF position before connecting the machine to the power supply.
13. Make certain the machine is properly grounded.
14. Make all machine adjustments or maintenance with the machine unplugged from the power source. A
machine under repair should be RED TAGGED to show that it should not be used until maintenance
is complete.
15. Remove loose items and unnecessary work pieces from the area before starting the machine.
Remove adjusting keys and wrenches. Form a habit of checking to see that keys and adjusting
wrenches are removed from the machine before turning it on.
16. Keep safety guards in place at all times when the machine is in use. If removed for maintenance
purposes, use extreme caution and replace the guards immediately upon completion of maintenance.
17. Make sure the jointer is firmly secured to the floor or bench before use.
18. Provide for adequate space surrounding work area and non-glare, overhead lighting.
19. Keep the floor around the machine clean and free of scrap material, oil and grease.
4
20. Check damaged parts. Before further use of the machine, a guard or other part that is damaged
should be carefully checked to determine that it will operate properly and perform its intended
function. Check for alignment of moving parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of parts, mounting
and any other conditions that may affect its operation. A guard or other part that is damaged should
be properly repaired or replaced.
21. Keep visitors a safe distance from the work area. Keep children away.
22. Make your workshop child proof with padlocks, master switches or by removing starter keys.
23. Give your work undivided attention. Looking around, carrying on a conversation and “horse-play” are
careless acts that can result in serious injury.
24. Maintain a balanced stance at all times so that you do not fall or lean against the kniv es or other
moving parts. Do not overreach or use excessive force to perform any machine operation.
25. Use recommended accessories; improper accessories may be hazardous.
26. Maintain tools with care. Keep knives sharp and clean for the best and safest performance. Follow
instructions for lubricating and changing accessories.
27. Turn off the machine and disconnect from power before cleaning. Use a brush or compressed air to
remove chips or debris — do not use your hands.
28. Do not stand on the machine. Serious injury could
occur if the machine tips over.
29. Never leave the machine running unattended.
Turn the power off and do not leave the machine
until it comes to a complete stop.
30. When working a piece of wood on the jointer,
follow the 3-inch radius rule: The hands must
never be closer than 3 inches to the cutterhead.
See Figure 1.
31. Always use a hold-down or push block when
surfacing stock less than 12 inches long, or 3
inches wide, or 3 inches thick.
32. Do not perform jointing operations on material shorter than 8 inches in length, narrower than 3/4
inches, or less than 1/4 inch thick.
33. Do not make cuts deeper than 1/8 inch to avoid overloading the machine and to minimize chance of
kickback.
34. Never apply pressure to stock directly over the cutterhead. This may result in the stock tipping into
the cutterhead along with the operator’s fingers. Position hands away from extreme ends of stock,
and push through with a smooth, even motion. Never back workpiece toward the infeed table.
35. “Pull-out” and the danger of kicked back stock can occur when the work piece has knots, holes, or
foreign materials such as nails. It can also occur when the stock is fed against the grain on the jointer.
The grain must run in the same direction you are cutting. Before attempting to joint or plane, each
work piece must be carefully examined for stock condition and grain orientation.
NOTE: At certain times it may be necessary to plane against the grain when working with a swirl grain
wood or burl. With this type of work the operator must use a lesser depth of cut and a slow rate of
feed.
5
Familiarize yourself with the following safety notices used in this manual:
This means that if precautions are not heeded, it may result in minor injury and/or
possible machine damage.
This means that if precautions are not heeded, it may result in serious injury or possibly
even death.
Familiarize yourself with the location and content of these decals:
Figure 2
6
Specifications
Model Number........................................................................... 60B................................................... 60B
Approx. Net Weight (Jointer Base) (lbs.).................................... 280................................................... 280
Approx. Net Weight (Stand) (lbs.) .............................................. 113 ................................................... 116
The above specifications were current at the time this manual was published, but because of our policy of
continuous improvement, WMH Tool Group reserves the right to change specifications at any time and
without prior notice, without incurring obligations.
Features of the 60B Jointer
Figure 3
7
Receiving
Open both shipping crates and check for
shipping damage. Report any damage
immediately to your distributor and shipping
agent. Before operating your jointer, read this
instruction manual thoroughly for assembly,
maintenance and safety instructions.
Crate #1 contents1 jointer stand with motor
1 door
1 dust chute
Crate #2 contents
1 table and fence assembly
1 drive belt
1 belt guard
1 cutterhead guard
2 push pads
1 hardware bag
1 knife setting gauge
1 manual
1 warranty card
The contents of the hardware bag are shown in
Figure 4.
NOTE: Exposed metal surfaces such as the
table and fence have been given a protective
coating at the factory. This should be removed
with a soft cloth and solvent (such as mineral
spirits) once the machine has been assembled.
Do not use an abrasive pad.
Figure 4
Installation and Assembly
NOTE: If any procedure described below needs
further clarification, consult the assembly
drawings at the back of this manual.
Tools required for assembly:
9/16" wrench
12mm wrench
screwdriver (phillips or flat head)
Locate the jointer on a level floor. If using a
mobile base, be sure to lock the wheels before
assembling, operating or adjusting the jointer.
1. With help from an assistant, lift the jointer
base assembly onto the stand, matching the
3-hole pattern in the table base to that in the
stand.
2. Secure jointer base to stand with three 3/8 x
2-3/8 bolts, six 3/8 flat washers, three 3/8
lock washers and three 3/8 hex nuts (Figure
5). Tighten with 9/16" wrench.
Figure 5
8
3. The stand can be secured to the floor using
two anchor bolts (not provided) through the
holes inside the bottom of the stand.
Aligning Pulleys
Place a straight edge against the motor pulley
and cutterhead pulley to make sure they are
aligned. If adjustment is necessary, loosen the
set screws in the motor pulley, and slide it as
needed until alignment is achieved. Re-tighten
set screws.
Mounting Drive Belt
1. Place the belt into the groove of the
cutterhead pulley.
2. Reach through the dust chute opening in the
side of the stand with a 12mm wrench, and
loosen the nuts on the motor mount screws
(Figure 6).
3. Lift up on the motor to provide slack, and
place the lower end of the driv e belt into the
motor pulley groove.
4. Let the motor slide down and push down on
it until the belt is properly tensioned. NOTE:
There should be only moderate deflection in
the belt midway between the pulleys when
using light finger pressure (Figure 7).
5. Tighten the four hex nuts on the motor
mount screws.
Mounting Pulley Guard
Place the pulley guard (A, Figure 8) as shown,
and secure with knob (B, Figure 8).
Figure 6
Figure 7
Mounting Dust Chute
It is strongly recommended that a dust collection
system (not provided) be connected to the
jointer. It will help keep your shop clean, and
reduce the risk of health problems due to wood
dust. The dust collector should have sufficient
capacity for this size jointer.
Place the dust chute over the opening in the
jointer stand, and secure with four 1/4-20 x 1/2
pan head screws and four 1/4 flat washers
(Figure 9)
Connect a dust collection hose to the dust chute
on the jointer and secure it with a hose clamp or
duct tape. NOTE: Dryer vent hose is not
acceptable for this purpose.
Figure 8
Figure 9
9
Electrical Connections
Electrical connections must
be made by a qualified electrician in
compliance with all relevant codes. This
machine must be properly grounded to help
prevent electrical shock and possible fatal
injury.
The Jointer is equipped with either a single
phase, 230 volt motor; or a three phase,
230/460 volt motor. The single phase unit is
factory wired for 230 volts. You may either install
a UL/CSA listed plug suitable for 230 volt
operation, or “hard-wire” the jointer directly to a
service panel. The circuit for the machine should
be a dedicated circuit.
The three phase motor is pre-wired for 230 volt.
It may be re-connected for 460 volts by
changing the connections as illustrated in the
diagram in the motor wiring box (see
“Converting from 230 Volt to 460 Volt”). You
may either install a UL/CSA listed plug suitable
for the specific voltage, or “hard-wire” the jointer
directly to a service panel.
If the jointer is to be hard-wired to a panel, make
sure a disconnect is available for the operator.
During hard-wiring of the machine, make sure
the fuses have been removed or the breakers
have been tripped in the circuit to which the
jointer will be connected. Place a warning
placard on the fuse holder or circuit breaker to
prevent it being turned on while the machine is
being wired.
Grounding Instructions
This machine must be grounded. In the event of
a malfunction or breakdown, grounding provides
a path of least resistance for electric current to
reduce the risk of electric shock.
Improper connection of the equipmentgrounding conductor can result in a risk of
electric shock. The conductor with insulation
having an outer surface that is green with or
without yellow stripes, is the equipmentgrounding conductor. If repair or replacement of
the electric cord or plug is necessary, do not
connect the equipment-grounding conductor to a
live terminal.
Check with a qualified electrician or service
personnel if the grounding instructions are not
completely understood, or if in doubt as to
whether the tool is properly grounded. Repair or
replace a damaged or worn cord immediately.
10
IMPORTANT: Make sure the electrical
characteristics are the same on the motor
nameplate and the power source, and make
sure the circuit on which the jointer will be used
is properly fused and that the wire size is
correct.
Converting from 230 Volt to 460 Volt
(Three Phase Only)
Consult the wiring diagram inside the starter box
cover. A diagram is also included on pages 3738 of this manual. The Jointer must comply with
all local and national codes after being wired.
1. Remove the starter box cover and adjust the
dial on the relay (see Figure 10) as close as
possible to the amperage of the Jointer
motor at 460V, as listed on the motor plate.
2. Move the fuse (Figure 10) from the 230V
slot to the 460V slot.
3. Re-connect the incoming leads to the motor
for 460 volt operation, as shown in the
wiring diagram.
4. If using a plug, install a proper UL/CSA
listed plug suitable for 460 volt operation.
Three-Phase Test Run
On the three-phase unit, after wiring has been
completed, you should check that the incoming
leads have been connected properly:
1. Connect machine to power source and
press the start button (make sure cutterhead
is clear of all obstructions!).
2. The cutterhead should rotate clockwise as
viewed from the front of the machine. If the
cutterhead rotation is incorrect, press the
stop button and disconnect machine from power.
3. Switch any two of the three leads to the
motor.
Extension Cords
Make sure your extension cord is in good
condition. Always use a cord that is heavy
enough to carry the current your product will
draw; the cord rating must be suitable for the
amperage listed on the machine’s motor plate.
An undersize cord will cause a drop in line
voltage resulting in loss of power and
overheating.
Use the chart in Figure 11 as a general guide in
choosing the correct size cord. If in doubt, use
the next heavier gauge. The smaller the gauge
number, the heavier the cord.
Figure 10
Extension Cord Recommended Gauges (AWG)
Extension Cord Length *
25
50
75
100
150
Amps
< 5 16 16 16 14 12 12
5 to 8 16 16 14 12 10 NR
8 to 12 14 14 12 10 NR NR
12 to 15 12 12 10 10 NR NR
15 to 20 10 10 10 NR NR NR
21 to 30 10 NR NR NR NR NR
*based on limiting the line voltage drop to 5V at 150% of the
rated amperes.
Some adjusting procedures, as well as
rabbeting operations, will require removal of the
guard. Simply loosen handle on rabbeting ledge
(Figure 12) and vertically lift guard out of the
hole.
Mounting Guard:
The guard is spring tensioned. When mounted,
it must have enough tension to completely cover
the cutterhead, and press firmly against the
fence. To adjust the guard tension:
Figure 12
1. Disconnect machine from power source.
2. Release the fence locking handle (A, Figure
13) and remove the two hex nuts and
washer (B, Figure 13) which hold the fence
to the fence support. Lift up the fence
assembly and set it out of the way of the
cutter guard.
3. Rotate the cutter guard (A, Figure 13) to the
right and set it into its hole as shown. Firmly
tighten the handle (B, Figure 13). The
farther to the right you set the guard, the
stronger tension it will have.
4. Rotate the guard counterclockwise (C,
Figure 14) until it covers the cutterhead.
NOTE: Keep hands away from knives!
Hold it in this position (using an assistant or
block of wood) and re-mount the fence.
5. Test the tension by swinging the guard
away from the fence and then releasing it.
The guard should snap back to the fence.
NOTE: The guard must operate freely and must
not drag on the rabbeting ledge or infeed table.
If dragging occurs, check that the handle (Figure
12) is tight. If guard still drags, the guard
assembly may need to be replaced.
Figure 13
Figure 14
12
Installing Knives
Use care when working with
or around sharp knives. Make sure power to
the machine has been disconnected.
When installing new knives, remove only one
knife at a time. Clean the knife slot and install
the new knife. Adjust and snug new knife in
cutterhead before proceeding to next knife.
1. Disconnect machine from power source.
2. Remove the belt guard so that you can
rotate the cutterhead by turning the motor
pulley or by moving the drive belt. Do not
grab the cutterhead itself to rotate it.
3. Remove the old knives by loosening gib
screws with an 8mm wrench, and allowing
the springs to push the knife upward.
Remove knife and gib. See Figure 15.
4. Clean the gib and the knife slot. Sandwich
new knife and gib together and drop into
slot. Make sure the knife is oriented properly
as shown in Figure 15.
Figure 15
IMPORTANT: To position the knives for rabbet
cuts, take a shop scale with 1/32" graduations
and place it against the end of the cutterhead.
Slide the knife out until it is at the 1/32" mark on
the scale; that is, the knife will now be 1/32"
beyond the edge of the cutterhead. The gib
should remain in normal position, even with the
edge of the cutterhead. See Figure 16. This
adjustment will ensure that the knife clears the
end of the gib and cutterhead, and has good
contact with the workpiece. (See under “Basic
Jointer Operation” for further information on
rabbeting procedures.)
5. The height of the knife in the slot, both for
rabbeting and normal jointer work, must now
be set properly, to ensure correct operation
as well as minimize the hazard of kickback.
Proceed as follows:
6. Rotate the cutterhead (using the pulley) until
the tip of the knife is at the top of the
cutterhead arc. Place the knife setting
gauge (Figure 17) over the cutterhead so
the tip of the knife contacts the center of the
gauge, and all four "feet" of the gauge rest
firmly upon the cutterhead, as the knife is
pushed down into its slot. The gauge will set
the knives at approximately .070" above the
cutterhead. Knife height should not vary
more than .002-.003" across the length of
the cutterhead.
Figure 16
Figure 17
13
7. Tightening the gib screws should be done in
increments, to prevent any distortion to the
cutterhead or buckling of knives. While
holding the gauge down on one knife, snug
down the five gib screws, beginning with the
center screw and working your way to the
ends. Do not fully tighten yet.
8. Rotate the cutterhead to the next slot and
repeat step #6, only making the knives
snug. Repeat for the third knife.
9. The tightening process should continue at
least two more times, each time tightening
the screws more on all three knives. On the
third time, they should all be firmly
tightened.
Before starting jointer, make
sure all gib screws are firmly tightened. A
loose knife thrown from the cutterhead can
cause severe or fatal injury.
10. After replacing knives, the outfeed table
must be checked and adjusted so that it is
level with the high point of the knives. See
“Setting Outfeed Table” on page 16.
Leveling Tables
The tables have been leveled with each other
from the factory, but this should be confirmed by
the user, and checked periodically, by placing a
steel straight edge across both tables. If tables
are not level, this may be the result of loose
gibs. Correct as follows:
1. Loosen hex nuts on the gib screws (A,
Figure 18) with a 12mm wrench, then
loosen the gib screws with a 4mm hex
wrench. Loosen the table lock handle (B,
Figure 18).
2. Remove lower hex nut and gib screw (A*,
Figure 18) and check screw hole to make
sure that punch mark in the gib is aligned
with the screw hole. If punch mark is not
visible, or it does not line up with screw
hole, use a screwdriver to lightly tap the gib
back into alignment.
3. Replace the lower gib screw (A*, Figure 18)
but do not tighten.
4. Carefully tighten the table lock screw (B,
Figure 18). The table will begin to move
toward the straight edge.
5. When aligned, re-set the gib screws (A,
Figure 18) until tight. If table does not align
with straight edge, use the adjusting arm (C,
Figure 18) for the infeed table, or handwheel
(D, Figure 18) for the outfeed table, until the
table is flush with the straight edge.
Figure 18
14
6. Tighten the gib screws (A, Figure 18) then
back them off approximately 1/4 turn or until
the table moves freely, and re-set the lock
nuts on the gib screws.
If table will still not line up:
Remove gib screws and table locking handle
and remove gib (#16, page 29). Check gib to
see that set screws do not go all the way
through the gib or dimple the opposite side. If
either of these conditions exist, replace with a
new gib.
Also, check to be sure the ways are clean and
free of pitch and sawdust. Lubricate gib and way
with a good grade of non-hardening grease.
Replace the gib, making certain that the punch
mark lines up with the locking screw holes.
Replace gib screws. Repeat steps 3 through 6.
Adjusting Depth of Cut
Depth of cut is determined by the height of the
infeed table relative to the cutterhead. Setting
the infeed table is achieved with both a rapid
adjust and a fine adjust.
Rapid Adjust:
1. Loosen the lock screw (A, Figure 19) and
the locking handle (B, Figure 19).
2. Raise or lower the height adjustment handle
(C, Figure 19) until the scale (D-Figure 19)
reads approximately the correct depth of
cut.
Fine Adjust:
3. Rotate the locking handle (B, Figure 19)
until it is snug, then fine-tune the adjustment
by rotating the height adjustment handle (C,
Figure 19) until the scale reads exact.
(Clockwise raises the table, counterclockwise lowers the table.) A full rotation of
the fine adjustment handle equals 1/16"
travel of the infeed table.
4. When set, re-tighten lock screw (A, Figure
19).
Periodically check the accuracy of the depth of
cut scale (D, Figure 19) by raising the infeed
table until it is flush with the peak of the
cutterhead arc (using a straight edge across
table and cutterhead). The scale should read
zero depth. If it does not, re-adjust the pointer
above the scale.
Figure 19
15
Setting Outfeed Table
For accurate work in most jointing operations,
the outfeed table must be exactly level with the
knives at their highest point of revolution.
1. Raise the outfeed table to its highest point,
and place a straight edge across it.
2. Rotate the cutterhead (using the belt or
pulley) until one knife is at its highest point.
3. Lower the outfeed table until the straight
edge contacts a knife. Rock the cutterhead
slightly to make sure the apex of the knife is
contacting the straight edge. Lock the
outfeed table at that setting.
After the outfeed table has been set at the
correct height, it should not be changed except
for special operations or after replacing knives.
Examples of incorrect settings:
If the outfeed table is too high, the finished
surface of the workpiece will be curved (Figure
20).
Figure 20
Figure 21
If the outfeed table is too low, the work will be
gouged at the end of the cut (Figure 21)
As a final check of the outfeed table adjustment,
run a piece of wood slowly over the knives for 6
to 8 inches; it should rest firmly on both tables
(Figure 22) with no open space under the
finished cut.
Spring Cutting
To spring cut, the outfeed table is lowered below
the level of the cutterhead, as in Figure 23.
Loosen both gib screws (A, Figure 23) on the
outfeed table. Amount of end-drop is controlled
with the table lock screw (B, Figure 23). Tighten
handle to reduce amount of drop. A 1/32" drop
usually creates the ideal concave for spring
joints. After completing a spring cut, return the
outfeed table in line with the cutterhead knives.
Figure 22
Figure 23
16
Fence Movement
To slide the fence forward or backward on the
table, loosen lock handle (A, Figure 24), slide
the fence to desired position and tighten lock
handle to secure fence. Lift up on fence when
tilting or sliding, to prevent scratching the
table.
NOTE: The handle (A, Figure 24) may be
adjusted to a more convenient position by
loosening the hex nuts below the casting (see B,
Figure 31), turning the handle to the proper
position, and retightening the hex nuts.
To tilt the fence forward:
1. Loosen locking handle (B, Figure 24).
2. Place an angle measuring device on the
table and against the fence. Tilt the fence to
desired angle and tighten locking handle (B,
Figure 24) to secure the angle.
To tilt the fence back:
1. Loosen locking handle (B, Figure 24).
2. Flip the stop block (C, Figure 24) out of the
way.
3. Tilt the fence to desired angle and tighten
locking handle (B, Figure 24) to secure
angle.
When the tilted operation is
finished and the fence is returned to 90
degrees, do not forget to flip the stop block
back to its original position.
Fence Stops
Periodically check the 90 degree and 45 degree
tilt accuracy of the fence with an adjustable
square or machinist's protractor. If adjustments
are necessary, proceed as follows:
Figure 24
90 degree stop:
1. The 90 degree stop is controlled by the
screw (D, Figure 25).
2. Loosen the locking handle (B, Figure 25)
and the hex nut on the screw (D, Figure 25).
3. Set the square on the table and against the
fence, and move the fence to fit flush
against the 90 degree angle. Rotate the
screw (D, Figure 25) until it contacts the
stop block (C, Figure 25).
4. Tighten the hex nut (D, Figure 25) and the
locking handle (B, Figure 25).
Figure 25
17
45 degree forward stop:
1. The 45 degree forward stop is controlled by
the screw (E, Figure 25).
2. Loosen the locking handle (B, Figure 25)
and the hex nut on the screw (E, Figure 25).
3. Set the 45 degree protractor on the table
and against the fence, and tilt the fence until
it is flush against the 45 degree angle.
4. Rotate the screw (E, Figure 25) until it
contacts the casting below it.
5. Tighten hex nut (E, Figure 25) and locking
handle (B, Figure 25).
45 degree back stop:
1. Flip the stop block (C, Figure 25) out of the
way.
2. The 45 degree back stop is controlled by the
screw (F, Figure 25).
3. Loosen the locking handle (B, Figure 25)
and the hex nut on the screw (F, Figure 25).
4. Use a protractor set at 45 degrees beyond
the right angle (a total of 135 degrees) and
place it on the table and against the fence.
Tilt the fence until it is flush with the
protractor.
5. Rotate the screw (F, Figure 25) to the
proper height.
6. Tighten hex nut (F, Figure 25) and locking
handle (B, Figure 25).
Basic Jointer Operation
Figure 25 (repeated)
NOTE: If you are inexperienced at jointing, use
scrap pieces of lumber to check settings and get
the feel of operations before attempting regular
work.
This section briefly discusses general rules as
well as some of the basic cuts using a jointer,
such as surfacing, edging, beveling, skewing,
rabbeting and taper cuts.
Always use cutterhead guard
(except during rabbeting) and keep hands
away from cutterhead.
Jointing Short or Thin Work
When jointing short or thin pieces, use a push
pad or push block to eliminate all danger to the
hands. Two push pads are included with your
jointer. You can also make your own push block
from scrap material. Three types are illustrated
in Figure 26.
Figure 26
18
Direction of Grain
Avoid feeding work into the jointer against the
grain. This will result in chipped and splintered
edges (Figure 27). Feed with the grain to obtain
a smooth surface (Figure 28).
Hand Placement
At the start of the cut, the left hand holds the
work firmly against the infeed table and fence
while the right hand pushes the work toward the
knives. After the cut is under way, the new
surface rests firmly on the outfeed table. The left
hand should press down on this part, at the
same time maintaining flat contact with the
fence. The right hand presses the work forward
and before the right hand reaches the
cutterhead it is moved to the work on the
outfeed table. Follow the 3 inch rule. Never
pass hands directly over the cutterhead.
Surfacing
Jointing the face of stock, or surfacing, is shown
in Figure 29. The use of push blocks or pads will
help ensure against the operator's hands
coming into contact with the cutterhead in the
event of a kickback, or as the trailing end of the
board passes over the cutterhead.
Figure 27
Figure 28
Adjust the infeed table for depth of cut. Cuts of
approximately 1/16" at a time are
recommended, as this allows better control over
the material being surfaced. More passes can
then be made to reach the desired depth.
Never surface pieces shorter than 12" or thinner
than 3/8" without the use of a special work
holding fixture.
IMPORTANT: When stock is longer than twice
the length of the infeed and outfeed tables, an
assistant or support table must be used to
support the stock.
Always use a hold down or
push block when surfacing short stock or
stock less than 3 inches thick.
Jointing Warped Surfaces
If the wood to be jointed is dished or warped,
take light cuts until the surface is flat. Avoid
forcing such material down against the table;
excessive pressure will spring it while passing
the knives, and it will spring back and remain
curved after the cut is completed.
Figure 29
19
Edge Jointing
This is the most common operation for the
jointer. Set guide fence square with the table.
Depth of cut should be the minimum required to
obtain a straight edge. Do not make cuts deeper
than 1/8" in a single pass. Hold the best face of
the piece firmly against the fence throughout the
feed. See Figure 30.
When edging stock wider than 3 inches, lap the
fingers over the top of the wood, extending them
back over the fence so that the fence casting will
act as a stop for the hands in the event of a
kickback.
Beveling
When beveling never make cuts deeper than
1/16 inch. Make certain material being beveled
is over 12 inches long, more than 1/4" thick and
1" wide.
Figure 30
Although the fence may be
tilted in or out for a bevel cut, It is
recommended for safety reasons that the
fence be tilted in toward the operator,
making a cradled cut.
Set fence to desired angle. For stock wider than
3", hold with the fingers close together near the
top of the stock, lapping over the board and
extending over the fence. When beveling
material less than 3" wide, use beveled push
blocks.
Skewing (Shear Cutting)
When edging or facing burl or birds-eye maple,
it is not unusual to deface or mar the surface
being finished. This is caused by the cutterhead
blades at times cutting against the grain. In
order to prevent the defacing or marring of this
type wood, it is necessary to skew, or angle
finish, the material being worked.
1. Release the fence locking handle (A, Figure
31) and remove the two hex nuts and
washer (B, Figure 31) holding the fence to
the fence support. Remove the fence
assembly.
Figure 31
2. Remove the key (C, Figure 31) from the
fence support.
3. Replace the fence assembly at the desired
angle across the cutterhead. See Figure 32.
Secure the fence to the support with the hex
nuts and washer (B, Figure 31), then tighten
the fence locking handle (A, Figure 31).
Figure 32
20
Taper Cuts
A useful jointer operation is cutting an edge to a
taper. The method can be used on a wide
variety of work. Tapered legs of furniture are a
common example. Instead of laying the piece on
the infeed table, lower the forward end of the
work onto the outfeed table. Do this very carefully, as the piece will span the knives, and
they will take a "bite" from the work with a
tendency to kick back unless the piece is firmly
held. Now push the work forward as in ordinary
jointing.
The effect is to plane off all the stock in front of
the knives to increasing depth, leaving a tapered
surface. The ridge left by the knives when
starting the taper may be removed by taking a
very light cut according to the regular method for
jointing, with the infeed table raised to its usual
position.
Practice is required in taper operations, and the
beginner is advised to make trial cuts on waste
material. Taper cuts over part of the length and
a number of other special operations can easily
be done as the operator gains experience.
Rabbeting
A rabbet cut requires
removal of the cutter guard. Use extreme
caution and keep hands clear of cutterhead.
Always replace guard immediately after
rabbeting operation is completed.
A rabbet is a groove cut along the edge of a
board. The width and thickness of the wood to
be rabbeted depends upon the width and length
of the rabbet. However, never rabbet a piece of
wood less than 12" long. Use push blocks to
rabbet cut whenever possible.
4. Disconnect machine from power source.
5. Set fence for the desired width of the rabbet.
6. Check the width of the rabbet by measuring
the distance from the end of a knife in the
cutterhead to the fence.
7. Lower infeed table 1/32" at a time and make
successive cuts until the desired depth of
rabbet has been obtained. See Figure 33.
NOTE: It is easier and safer to take a series
of shallow cuts.
When rabbeting long pieces, follow the same
procedure as for surfacing long pieces (page
19).
Figure 33
21
Maintenance
Disconnect machine from
power source before doing any maintenance.
The table and fence surfaces must be kept
clean and free of rust for best results. Some
users prefer a paste wax coating. Another option
is talcum powder applied with a blackboard
eraser rubbed in vigorously once a week; this
will fill casting pores and form a moisture barrier.
This method provides a table top that is slick
and allows rust rings to be easily wiped from the
surface. Important also is the fact that talcum
powder will not stain wood or mar finishes as
wax pickup does.
The fence assembly should slide easily over the
fence support. Keep fence support greased.
The bearings in the cutterhead are sealed and
do not require lubrication.
Gum and pitch which collect on the knives
cause excessive friction as the work continues,
resulting in overheating of the knives, less
efficient cutting, and consequent reduction in the
life of the knives. Use an oven cleaner or gum
and pitch remover to wipe this off the knives.
Cutterhead Repairs
The entire cutterhead assembly may be
removed for bearing replacement or other
maintenance procedures.
1. Disconnect jointer from power source.
2. Remove fence assembly from jointer (see
page 12, Figure 13).
3. Loosen motor mounting and push up on
motor to create slack in belt (see page 9)
4. Remove drive belt from cutterhead pulley.
5. Lower both infeed and outfeed tables.
6. Loosen the two socket head cap screws on
the fence support and pivot the fence
support out of the way (Figure 34).
Sharpening Knives
Knives should be kept sharp. This will contribute
to better stock finish, longer machine life, and
safer operation.
A jointer knife hone provides a simple way to
sharpen knives. Hones are available from many
woodworking supply stores. Carefully read any
instructions that accompany the hone.
Use caution and proceed
slowly when sharpening knives. Disconnect
jointer from power source, and wear
approved eye protection.
When finished sharpening knives, they should
be re-set level to the outfeed table. See
“Installing Knives” on page 13.
Knives can usually be whetted several times in
the cutterhead before having to be removed and
re-ground.
TIP: If the jointer is used frequently, keeping a
spare set of knives on hand is recommended.
Extra knives (stock no. 6427002, set of 3) may
be obtained from your Powermatic distributor, or
by calling WMH Tool Group at 1-800-274-6848.
Figure 34
7. Remove rabbeting ledge by loosening the
two hex cap screws and washers (A, Figure
35).
Figure 35
8. Loosen the two bolts (B, Figure 35) that
secure the cutterhead to the bed – these are
accessed from the underside of the bearing
blocks.
9. Lift cutterhead straight up from base.
10. Remove pulley and both bearing housings.
22
IMPORTANT: If the bearings need replacement,
this should be done by qualified service
personnel. The bearings are press fitted and
must be removed with an arbor press.
To re-install cutterhead, reverse the above
procedure. Before re-installing, make sure the
machine's curved seats of the base casting are
free of dirt, dust or grease, to help ensure a tight
fit.
NOTE: Whenever the cutterhead is re-installed
on the jointer, the tables must be leveled in
relationship to it.
You may wish to keep an extra cutterhead on
hand to maintain shop productivity.
Table Removal
1. Disconnect jointer from power source.
2. Remove fence assembly except for the
support casting.
3. Remove cutter guard.
4. Lower infeed and outfeed tables and remove
cutterhead.
5. Loosen the gib set screws and table lock
screws.
After gib screws are
loosened, table could suddenly slide down.
6. Remove infeed or outfeed table by sliding
upward.
23
Troubleshooting – Operating Problems
Trouble Probable Cause Remedy
Finished stock is
concave on back
end.
Finished stock is
concave on front end.
Stock has slight bevel
after edge jointing.
Chip out.
Fuzzy, rough, or torn
grain.
Board thickness does
not match depth of
cut scale.
Knife is higher than outfeed table.
Outfeed table is higher than knife.
Fence not perpendicular to table. Square up fence with table.
Cutting against the grain. Cut with the grain whenever possible.
Dull knives. Sharpen or replace knives.
Feeding workpiece too fast. Use slower rate of feed.
Cutting too deeply. Make shallower cuts.
Knots, imperfections in wood.
Wood has high moisture content. Allow wood to dry or use different stock.
Dull knives. Sharpen or replace knives.
Knives are cutting against grain. Cut with the grain.
Depth of cut scale is incorrect. Adjust scale correctly.
Raise outfeed table until it aligns with
tip of knife. See page 16.
Lower outfeed table until it aligns with
tip of knife. See page 16.
Inspect wood closely for imperfections;
use different stock if necessary.
Cutterhead slows
while operating.
“Chatter” marks on
workpiece.
Uneven knife marks
on workpiece.
Feeding too quickly, or applying too
much pressure to workpiece.
Excessive depth of cut. Reduce depth of cut.
Dull knives. Sharpen or replace knives.
Knives incorrectly set.
Feeding workpiece too fast.
Knives are nicked, or out of
alignment.
Feed more slowly, or apply less
pressure to workpiece.
Set knives properly using provided knife
setting gauge. Check that knife slots
are clean and free of dust or debris.
Feed workpiece slowly and
consistently.
Replace nicked knives; align knives
properly using knife-setting gauge. See
page 13.
24
Troubleshooting – Mechanical and Electrical Problems
Trouble Probable Cause Remedy
Machine will not
start/restart or
repeatedly trips
circuit breaker or
blows fuses.
No incoming power.
Overload automatic reset has not
reset.
Jointer frequently trips.
Verify unit is connected to power, onbutton is pushed in completely, and
stop-button is disengaged.
When jointer overloads on the circuit
breaker built into the motor starter, it
takes time for the machine to cool
down before restart. Allow unit to
adequately cool before attempting
restart. If problem persists, check
amp setting on the motor starter
inside the electrical enclosure – it
should match the amps on the motor
as indicated on the motor plate.
One cause of overloading trips which
are not electrical in nature is too
heavy a cut. The solution is to take a
lighter cut. If too deep a cut is not the
problem, then check the amp setting
on the overload relay. Match the full
load amps on the motor as noted on
the motor plate. If amp setting is
correct then there is probably a loose
electrical lead.
Motor overheated.
Building circuit breaker trips or fuse
blows.
Switch or motor failure (how to
distinguish).
Verify that jointer is on a circuit of
correct size. If circuit size is correct,
there is probably a loose electrical
lead. Check amp setting on motor
starter.
Examine motor starter for burned or
failed components. If damage is
found, replace starter. If no visible
damage found, have starter tested.
If you have access to a voltmeter, you
can separate a starter failure from a
motor failure by first, verifying
incoming voltage at 220+/-20 and
second, checking the voltage
between starter and motor at 220+/-
20. If incoming voltage is incorrect,
you have a power supply problem. If
voltage between starter and motor is
incorrect, you have a starter problem.
If voltage between starter and motor
is correct, you have a motor problem.
Clean motor of dust or debris to allow
proper air circulation. Allow motor to
cool down before restarting.
25
Trouble Probable Cause Remedy
Machine will not
start/restart or
repeatedly trips
circuit breaker or
blows fuses.
Motor failure.
Electrical leads are attached
incorrectly.
Loose electrical connections.
On/off switch failure.
If electric motor is suspect, have it
tested by qualified service personnel.
Repair or replace as needed.
Double check to confirm all electrical
connections are correct. Refer to
appropriate wiring diagrams on pages
36 through 38 to make any needed
corrections.
Inspect all motor leads for tightness.
Look for any signs of electrical arcing
which would indicate loose
connections or circuit overload.
If the on/off switch is suspect, you
have two options: Have a qualified
electrician test the switch for function,
or purchase a new on/off switch and
establish if that was the problem on
changeout.
Optional Accessories
2042376 ....... Mobile Base
6296046 ....... Knives (set of 3)
6285917 ....... Push Block
Replacement Parts
Replacement parts are listed on the following pages. To order parts or reach our service department, call
1-800-274-6848 between 7:30 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. (CST), Monday through Friday. Having the Model
Number and Serial Number of your machine available when you call will allow us to serve you quickly and
accurately.
26
Parts List: Base Assembly
Index No. Part No. Description Size Qty
................. 2365022...................Jointer Base Assembly (Items 1 thru 78 and fence & cutterhead assys.) 1
39............. 6823013...................Stripe ................................................................................................ 8 ft.
49............. TS-1533042.............Phillips Pan Head Machine Screw ......................M5x0.8x12.................. 1
34
Stand Assembly
35
Electrical Connections – 230 Volt, Single Phase
36
Electrical Connections – 230 Volt, 3 Phase
37
Electrical Connections – 460 Volt, Three Phase
38
Preventive Maintenance
Checklist for Model 60B Jointer
[ ] Work area around machine marked off clearly.
[ ] Non-skid floor strips in area where operator normally stands.
[ ] Kickback path not aimed at other work areas, aisles or doorways.
[ ] Various types of push pads and blocks readily available to operator.
[ ] Inspect entire machine for loose bolts, nuts, screws. Tighten and replace as necessary.
[ ] Cutter guard in place and working properly.
[ ] Clean table area, removing sawdust and chips with a soft bristle brush or compressed air. Remove
gum and pitch with oven cleaner.
[ ] Lubricate appropriate places with a good grade non-hardening grease.
[ ] Clean table and fence surface. If rusted, use paste mixture of household ammonia, a good
commercial detergent and 000 steel wool. Wash surface down with hot, soapy water, rinse and
dry thoroughly. Coat surface with talcum powder, rubbing briskly into surface with a clean
blackboard eraser; or apply a light coat of paste wax.
[ ] Check knife condition; should be sharp and free of nicks or grooves. Knives set at proper height
using supplied gauge, and locked securely in cutterhead.
[ ] Gibs are adjusted for light drag on both outfeed and infeed table movements.
[ ] Outfeed table in line with top of arc of cutterhead. All blades arc within .002".
[ ] Check belt condition. Replace as needed. Dress with paraffin. Check belt tension.
[ ] Check motor for loose wiring and sawdust congestion, pulleys tight and in line.
[ ] Check bearings. Replace any bad or suspect bearings immediately.
[ ] Fence square with table, clamped tightly to fence support.
39
WMH Tool Group
2420 Vantage Drive
Elgin, Illinois 60124
Phone: 800-274-6848
www.wmhtoolgroup.com
40
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