1. Read and understand entire owner’s manual
before attempting assembly or operation.
2. Read and understand the warnings posted on
the machine and in this manual.
3. Replace warning labels if they become
obscured or removed.
4. This lathe is designed and intended for us e by
properly trained and experienced personnel
only. If you are not familiar with the proper and
safe operation of a lathe, do not use until proper
training and knowledge have been obtained.
5. Do not use this machine for other than its
intended use. If used for other purposes,
Powermatic disclaims any real or implied
warranty and holds itself harmless from any
injury that may result from that use.
6. Always wear protective eye wear when
operating machinery. Eye wear shall be impact
resistant, protective safety glasses with side
shields which comply with ANSI Z87.1
specifications. Use of eye wear which does not
comply with ANSI Z87.1 specifications could
result in severe injury from breakage of eye
protection. (Everyday eyeglasses only have
impact resistant lenses; they are NOT safety
glasses.)
7. Before operating this machine, remove tie,
rings, watches and other jewelry, and roll
sleeves up past the elbows. Do not wear loose
clothing. Confine long hair. Non-slip footwear or
anti-skid floor strips are recommended. Do not
wear gloves.
8. Wear hearing protection (plugs or muffs) if
noise exceeds safe levels.
9. Do not operate this machine while tired or under
the influence of drugs, alcohol or any
medication.
10. Make certain the switch is in the OFF position
before connecting the machine to the power
supply. Turn off all controls before unplugging.
11. Make certain the machine is properly grounded.
Connect to a properly grounded outlet only. See
Grounding Instructions.
12. Make all machine adjustments or maintenance
with the machine unplugged from the power
source.
13. Remove adjusting keys and wrenches. Form a
habit of checking to see that keys and adjusting
wrenches are removed from the machine
before turning it on.
14. Keep safety guards in place at all times when
the machine is in use. If removed for
maintenance purposes, use extreme caution
and replace the guards immediately after
maintenance is complete.
15. Check damaged parts. Before further use of the
machine, a guard or other part that is damaged
should be carefully checked to determine that it
will operate properly and perform its intended
function. Check for alignment of moving parts,
binding of moving parts, breakage of parts,
mounting and any other conditions that may
affect its operation. A guard or other part that is
damaged should be properly repaired or
replaced.
16. Provide for adequate space surrounding work
area and non-glare, overhead lighting.
17. Keep the floor around the machine clean and
free of scrap material, oil and grease.
18. Keep visitors a safe distance from the work
area. Keep children away.
19. Make your workshop child proof with padlocks,
master switches or by removing starter keys.
20. Give your work undivided attention. Looking
around, carrying on a conversation and “horseplay” are careless acts that can result in serious
injury.
21. Maintain a balanced stance at all times so that
you do not fall into the spindle or other moving
parts. Do not overreach or use excessive force
to perform any machine operation.
22. Use recommended accessories; improper
accessories may be hazardous.
23. Maintain tools with care. Follow instructions for
lubricating and changing accessories.
24. Turn off machine and disconnect from power
before cleaning. Use a brush or compressed air
to remove chips or debris; do not use bare
hands.
25. Do not stand on the machine. Serious injury
could occur if the machine tips over.
26. Keep turning tools sharp and clean for the best
and safest performance, and position the tools
properly in relation to the workpiece.
27. Never leave the Lathe running unattended.
Turn the power off and do not leave the
machine until the spindle comes to a complete
stop.
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Page 3
28. Use proper extension cord. Make sure your
extension cord is in good condition. When using
an extension cord, use one heavy enough to
carry the current your product will draw. An
undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage
resulting in loss of power and overheating. Sect.
7.3, Table 2 shows correct size to use
depending upon cord length and nameplate
ampere rating. If in doubt, use the next heavier
gauge. The smaller the gauge number, the
heavier the cord.
29. Never leave the Lathe running unattended.
Turn the power off and do not leave the
machine until the spindle comes to a complete
stop.
30. Remove loose items and unnecessary work
pieces from the area before starting the
machine.
31. Don’t use in dangerous environment. Don't use
power tools in damp or wet locations, or expose
them to rain. Keep work area well lighted.
32. Check the workpiece carefully for splits, k nots
or other obstructions which may cause a safety
risk while turning.
33. Adjust the tool support to the proper height and
position for the work. Rotate the workpiece by
hand to check clearance with the tool support.
34. Select the appropriate speed for the turning job
at hand. Start at low speed and allow the Lathe
to ramp up to operating speed.
35. Never stop a rotating workpiece with your hand.
36. If gluing up a workpiece, always use a highquality glue of the type necessary for that
particular workpiece.
WARNING: This product can expose you to
chemicals including lead and cadmium which
are known to the State of California to cause
cancer and birth defects or other reproductive
harm, and phthalates which are known to the
State of California to cause birth defects or other
reproductive harm. For more information go to
http://www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
WARNING: Drilling, sawing, sanding or
machining wood products generates wood dust
and other substances known to the State of
California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling dust
generated from wood products or use a dust
mask or other safeguards for personal
protection.
Wood products emit chemicals known to the
State of California to cause birth defects or other
reproductive harm. For more information go to
http://www.p65warnings.ca.gov/wood.
Familiarize yourself with the following safety notices used in this manual:
This means that if precautions are not heeded, it may result in minor injury and/or possible
machine damage.
This means that if precautions are not heeded, it may result in serious, or possibly even fatal,
injury.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
2.0 About this manual
This manual is provided by Powermatic covering the safe operation and maintenance procedures f or a Model
3520C Lathe. This manual contains instructions on installation, safety precautions, general operating procedures,
maintenance instructions and parts breakdown. This machine has been designed and constructed to provide
consistent, long-term operation if used in accordance with instructions set forth in this manual.
This manual is not intended to be a complete instruction guide for woodturning practices, choice of stock, use of
after-market accessories, etc. Additional knowledge may be obtained from ex perienced users or trade a rticles.
Whatever accepted methods are used, always make personal safety a priority.
If there are questions or comments about this product, please contact your local supplier or Powermatic.
Powermatic can also be reached at our web site: www.powermatic.com.
Retain this manual for future reference. If the machine transfers ownership, the manual should accompany it.
Register your product using the mail-in card provided, or register online: http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/
service-and-support/ product-registration/
3
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3.0 Table of Contents
1.0 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ....................................................................................................... 2
2.0 About this manual .......................................................................................................................................... 3
3.0 Table of Contents ........................................................................................................................................... 4
8.1 Headstock/tailstock movement ................................................................................................................. 11
8.2 Tool support ............................................................................................................................................. 12
8.5 Ball bearing live center ............................................................................................................................. 12
8.11 Sheave and belt alignment ..................................................................................................................... 14
8.12 Sheave/drive belt replacement ............................................................................................................... 15
8.13 Checking spindle play ............................................................................................................................ 16
10.4 Face plate and bowl turning ................................................................................................................... 20
14.0 Recommended lathe speeds (per diameter of workpiece) ......................................................................... 26
15.0 Replacement parts ..................................................................................................................................... 26
15.9.2 Optional Accessories: #6294901, Lamp Holder Set – parts list .......................................................... 39
15.9.3 Lamp Kit – Parts List ........................................................................................................................... 39
16.0 Electrical connections for #1353001 – 3520C Lathe .................................................................................. 40
16.1 Wiring diagram 1 of 2 ............................................................................................................................. 40
16.2 Wiring diagram 2 of 2 ............................................................................................................................. 41
17.0 Warranty and Service ................................................................................................................................. 42
Motor type Totally enclosed, fan-cooled, induction
Horsepower 2HP (1.5 kW)
Motor phase 3
Motor voltage 220 V
Cycle 60 Hz
Listed FLA (full load amps) 6.2 A
Input power requirements
Drive system Poly V belt, E-type inverter drive, 2-step pulley
VFD input amperage 10 A , 1PH
VFD output to motor 7.5A (3PH)
Power cord Not supplied
Power plug Not supplied
Recommended circuit size 1 20 A
Sound emission without load 2 78 dB at 20 inches (508mm) from motor
Capacities
Working distance between centers 36 in. (91 cm) with dual bearing center
Working distance between centers, 20” bed extension mounted 56 in. (142 cm) with dual bearing center
Maximum distance between spindle face and tailstock quill 40-5/8 in. (103 cm)
Swing over bed 20” (508 mm)
Swing over toolrest base 15-3/4 in. (400 mm)
Maximum outboard turning, optional bed extension in low position
Headstock and spindle
Spindle speeds (RPM) low 15-1200; high 40-3200
Spindle thread size 1-1/4” x 8 TPI
Spindle direction forward/reverse
Headstock spindle taper #2 Morse
Hole through headstock spindle, diameter 5/8” (16 mm)
Outboard external threads 1-3/16”–18 UNC
Indexing positions 48
Faceplate 3 in. (76.2 mm)
Headstock body Cast iron
Bed Cast iron
Legs Cast iron
Tool rest Ductile iron, FCD45
Tool rest base Cast iron
Comparator brackets Cast iron
Face plate Cast iron
5
3520C
230V, 1 phase
38 in. (965 mm)
Page 6
Dimensions
Overall size assembled LxWxH 69-1/2 x 34 x 36-1/2 x 47 in. (+4 in. riser block)
[1766 x 92 x 119 cm (+10 cm riser block)]
Distance floor to spindle centerline (adjustable using levelers) 40-5/8 in. (103 cm) +4 in/10cm riser block)
Bed gap 2.5 in. (63.5 mm)
Footprint of stand 51-3/4”L x 24”W (1315 x 610 mm)
Tool support post diameter 1” (25.4mm)
Riser block height 4” (102 mm)
Weights
Net weight 726 lb. (330 kg)
Shipping weight 770 lb. (350 kg)
1
subject to local/national electrical codes.
2
The specified values are emission levels and are not necessarily to be seen as safe operating levels. As workplace
conditions vary, this information is intended to allow the user to make a better estimation of the hazards and risks
involved only.
L = length, W = width, H = height
The specifications in this manual were current at time of publication, but because of our policy of continuous
improvement, Powermatic reserves the right to change specifications at any time and without prior notice, without
incurring obligations.
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Read and understand the
entire contents of this manual before attempting
set-up or operation! Failure to comply may
cause serious injury.
5.0 Unpacking
Open shipping container and check for shipping
damage. Report any damage immediately to your
distributor and shipping agent. Do not discard any
shipping material until the Lathe is assembled and
running properly.
Compare the contents of your container with the
following parts list to make sure all parts are intact.
Some parts can be found in separate boxes packed
around the Lathe. Missing parts, if any, should be
reported to your distributor. Read the instruction
manual thoroughly for assembly, maintenance and
safety instructions.
5.1 Contents of shipping container
See Figure 5-1.
4 Levelers – A
2 Comparator centers – B
1 Spur center 1in. – C
1 Ball bearing live center – D
1 Knockout rod – E
1 Live center pin –F
1 Face plate 3in. – G
1 Tool support, 14in. – H
1 Face plate wrench – I
1 Tool caddy – J
1 Guard bracket – K
1 Comparator bracket – L
1 Locking handle – L
2 Leg assemblies – M
2 Riser blocks – N
1 Lathe bed, headstock, tailstock, banjo – O
1 Owner's manual (not shown)
1 Product registration card (not shown)
Fasteners:
4 Hex cap screws 1/2 x 2 – HP1
4 Lock washers 1/2 – HP2
4 Flat washers 1/2 – HP3
8 Socket hd. cap screws 3/8 x 1-3/4 – HP4
6 Socket hd. cap screws 3/8 x 1-1/4 – HP5
14 Lock washers 3/8 – HP6
10 Flat washers 3/8 – HP7
1 Lock handle – HP8
disconnected from power during assembly. Use
an assistant or a hoist to help lift items.
1. Remove any screws or straps that hold the
Lathe parts to the pallet, and remove protective
wrapping. Set all boxes containing legs and
accessories to the side.
2. Before assembling legs, decrease weight on
Lathe bed: Remove stop bolt at each end of
bed, and slide off headstock, tailstock and tool
support base (Refer to sect. 8.1 for any
clarification on removing these).
Use a hoist or a n assistant
to help lift items.
3. Turn lathe bed upside down on shipping pallet
(make sure there is nothing beneath that would
scratch the bed ways).
4. Install legs to bed with screws and washers
(HP4/6/7, Figure 6-1). Tighten screws firmly.
8. The Lathe should be located in a dry area, on a
sturdy floor, and with sufficient lighting. Leave
plenty of space around the machine for
operations and routine maintenance work.
9. Exposed metal areas of the Lathe, such as bed
ways and spindles, have been factory coated
with a protectant. This should be removed with
a soft cloth and a cleaner-degreaser. Clean the
bed areas under headstock, tailstock and tool
support base. Do not use an abrasive pad, and
do not allow solvents to contact painted or
plastic areas.
10. Re-install headstock, tool support base,
tailstock and stop bolts.
6.2 Tool caddy
The tool caddy, shown in Figure 6-2, can be
mounted to left or right end of Lathe. The left end,
near headstock area, is generally preferred for
convenience. Use screws and washers (HP5/6/7) to
secure tool caddy to threaded holes in Lathe leg.
Figure 6-1: installing legs and riser blocks
5. If installing the riser blocks, mount them to the
stands with screws and washers (HP1/2/3,
Figure 6-1).
6. Screw levelers (A, Figure 6-1) into threaded
holes of riser block (or legs if riser block not
used). The levelers can be adjusted at any time
to ensure the Lathe is stable and level. Tighten
the hex nuts against bottom of riser block/legs
to secure height setting.
7. Use an assistant to help stand the Lathe right
side up on its legs.
Figure 6-2: installing tool caddy
Accessories can be stored in the tool caddy,
including knockout rod, spur center, live center, live
center pin, comparator centers, and faceplate
wrench.
Accessories can also be stored inside tailstock.
6.3 Brackets
1. Install guard bracket (K, Figure 6-3) to
headstock.
2. Install comparator bracket (I, Figure 6-3) to
tailstock with fasteners. The bracket holes are
slotted for alignment with guard bracket.
3. Install locking handle (L
See section 8.8,“Comparator” for further
information.
, Figure 6-3).
1
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Figure 6-3: installing brackets
6.4 Guard (optional accessory)
An optional guard, stock number 6294728, is
available for the Lathe (see your Powermatic
dealer). To mount guard to Lathe:
1. On the guard, loosen set screw on outer collar
(shown in Figure 6-4) with 4mm hex wrench.
Slide outer collar off the guard support rod.
Figure 6-5: optional guard tilted back
6.5
Bed extension
An optional 20” bed extension assembly, stock
number 1353002, is available for the Lathe (see
your Powermatic dealer). To mount bed extension
to Lathe:
1. Slide tailstock away from edge of bed.
2. Have an assistant hold the bed extension flush
to end of Lathe bed, and insert four 3/8 x 1-3/4
socket head cap screws with lock washers and
flat washers (provided with extension bed)
through top holes and lower slots in bed
extension into threaded holes on Lathe. See
Figure 6-6.
(optional accessory)
Figure 6-4: installing optional guard
2. Insert guard support rod into mounting bracket
at rear of headstock, as shown in Figure 6-4. Lift
up on spring pin, as shown, to slide guard
support rod into mounting bracket. Release
spring pin and it will snap into position as you
slide the support rod farther in.
3. Install outer collar and tighten set screw.
4. The guard can be pivoted to one of two
positions: Operating mode or tilted back for
stock loading (shown in Figure 6-5).
5. Pull up on spring pin, and begin tilting guard,
then release spring pin. When guard reaches
either of the two positions, the spring pin will
engage.
Figure 6-6: optional 20” bed extension
3. Adjust extension bed to lathe bed, aligning the
surface and the inside ways as closely as
possible. Make the screws snug but not fully
tightened.
4. Slide tailstock over joint where beds meet, so
that clamping nut is centered over joint (Figure
6-6). Lock tailstock clamping handle; this will
align the beds.
IMPORTANT: Top surface of bed extension
must be flush with surface of lathe bed, and
inside ways must be aligned, to allow smooth
movement of tailstock across joint.
5. Tighten screws securely.
6. Unlock tailstock and slide it back and forth to
test smoothness of joint.
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7. Unscrew stop bolt from Lathe bed (Figure 6-6),
and screw it into hole at end of bed extension.
For outboard turning, where headstock is moved to
opposite end of Lathe to accommodate large bowl
blanks, the 20” bed extension can be mounted to the
four lower holes on Lathe frame. Install the
extension post (included with optional bed
extension) into the tool rest base. See Figure 6-7.
For large outboard work, an optional outboard
turning stand (# 6294732) is available – see sect.
16.4.1.
Figure 6-7: outboard turning accessories
Figure 6-8
6.6 User-made shelf (optional)
The double ledges on the inside of the Lathe legs
provide support for a shelf (not provided), which is
convenient for storing larger items while keeping
them easily accessible.
Figures 6-8 through 6-10 illustrate three methods of
creating a shelf, using common lumber and basic
tools.
IMPORTANT TIP: It is unlikely that a full-size shelf
can be completely built and then inserted between
the Lathe legs. Therefore, construct the shelf in
pieces and insert screws only after the shelf has
been established beneath the Lathe.
Shelf Style 1 (Figure 6-8)
Lay two 2x6 boards flat upon the inner ledges.
Boards of 49” length are suitable, although 49-1/2”
is optimal. Or, use 48” boards and place shim stock
on the ledges at each end to prevent shifting.
Shelf Style 2 (Figure 6-9)
Lay two 2x4 (or 2x6) boards on edge into the outer
ledges. Boards of 49” length are suitable, 49-1/2”
optimal.
Cut two pieces from a plywood board, and screw
them to the top edges of the 2x4’s. (One full length
plywood piece will not fit through the legs of the
Lathe; use at least two pieces.) Make the plywood
pieces flush with the outside edge of the 2x4’s.
Figure 6-9
Shelf Style 3: (Figure 6-10)
This is a basket-style shelf consisting of two 2x6’s
and dowel rods. The advantage of this design is that
most wood chips will fall through the shelf instead of
accumulating on it.
1. Mark your hole centers (2” centers) along the
length of a 2x6. Place the holes so that the tops
of the dowels will be even with the tops of the
ledges on the Lathe. Also, adjust your hole
centers as necessary so that the first and last
dowel will begin at approximately the same
distance from the ledge at both ends of the
Lathe.
2. Use a 5/8” spade bit chucked in a drill press or
in a portable drill. Bore the holes through one
2x6; this will be the rear piece.
3. On the other 2x6, do not bor e through but only
deep enough to securely hold the ends of the
dowel rods. This will be the front piece and will
provide a pleasing appearance at the front of
your Lathe.
4. When all holes have been bored, place the
2x6’s on edge in the outer ledges of the Lathe.
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5. Cut the dowel rods to length with a miter saw or
hand saw, so that after insertion the rods will be
flush with the back of the rear 2x6.
6. Insert the dowel rods through the holes in the
rear 2x6, as shown in Figure 6-10.
7. A strip of wood can be screwed to the rear 2x6
to cover the dowel holes and prevent the
dowels from working out.
Figure 6-10
7.0 Electrical connections
During wiring of the Lathe, make sure the fuses
have been removed or the breaker has been tripped
in the circuit to which the Lathe will be connected.
Place a warning placard on the fuse holder or circuit
breaker to prevent it being turned on while the
machine is being wired.
The Lathe will operate on single phase, 230 volt
power supply. Route the supply cable (not provided)
from power source into main switch box behind the
headstock (Figure 7-1). Insert the two wires into the
two remaining terminals of the rotary switch. See
diagram in sect. 16.2 if clarification is needed.
It is recommended that the lathe be connected to a
20 amp circuit with circuit breaker or time delay fuse.
Local codes take precedence over recommendations.
Electrical connections must be
made by a qualified electrician in compliance
with all relevant codes. This machine must be
properly grounded to help prevent electrical
shock and possible fatal injury.
This machine must be grounded. In the event of a
malfunction or breakdown, grounding provides a
path of least resistance for electric current to reduce
the risk of electric shock.
Improper connection of the equipment-grounding
conductor can result in a risk of electric shock. The
conductor, with insulation having an outer surface
that is green with or without yellow stripes, is the
equipment-grounding conductor. If repair or
replacement of the electric cord or plug is
necessary, do not connect the equipment-grounding
conductor to a live terminal.
Check with a qualified electrician or service
personnel if the grounding instructions are not
completely understood, or if in doubt as to whether
the tool is properly grounded.
Repair or replace a damaged or worn cord
immediately.
This lathe is shipped without a cord. This lathe must
be permanently connected to the electrical system
in accordance with the National Electrical Code and
any other applicable state and local codes.
Extension cords should not be used with this lathe.
Consult a licensed electrician if you are unsure how
to properly connect this lathe to the building’s
electrical system.
Figure 7-1: main switch box
8.0 Adjustments
8.1 Headstock/tailstock movement
To slide headstock or tailstock, swing locking handle
(A, Figure 8-1) backward or forward until
head/tailstock can slide freely. When head/tailstock
is positioned, swing locking handle until it tightens
securely.
To remove headstock, tailstock or tool support base
from bed, unscrew and remove stop bolt at either
end (see Figure 6-6). NOTE: After re-mounting
these items on the Lathe, always insert stop bolt.
For most turning operations, except outboard
turning, the headstock should be positioned at left
end of bed, and only the tailstock moved to
accommodate the workpiece.
Loosen locking handle (B, Figure 8-1) to advance or
retract tailstock quill by rotating handwheel (C).
Retighten handle (B).
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Figure 8-1: headstock, tailstock, tool support
8.2 Tool support
A 14” tool support is provided with your Lathe. It is
designed to allow adjustment for height, position on
the bed, and angle to the work.
Loosen locking handle (D, Figure 8-1) to slide
support base forward or back, and angle it to the
bed. Tighten locking handle securely before
operating Lathe.
Loosen small handle (E, Figure 8-1). Make sure
clamp bushings (inset, Figure 8-1) are properly
positioned to accept tool support post.
Adjust height of tool support and angle it to the work.
Tighten handle (E) before operating Lathe.
Figure 8-2: cam adjustment
8.5 Ball bearing live center
The live center cap, shown in Figure 8-3, screws
clockwise onto the threads of live center body.
To remove cap from live center, first insert live
center pin through hole in the live center body as
shown in Figure 8-3. If pin will not insert at first,
rotate cap until pin can be inserted. The cap can
now be removed by holding the body stationary
while unscrewing cap.
8.3 Cam tightness
If headstock, tailstock or tool rest base does not
properly tighten down against bed when the locking
handle is tightened, adjust as follows. Figure 8-2
uses tailstock as example.
1. Unscrew and remove stop bolt, and slide
tailstock off end of bed.
2. Turn tailstock on its side, and tighten lock nut
with a wrench. See Figure 8-2.
3. Mount tailstock on bed and test the adjustment.
When adjustments are complete, re-insert stop
bolt at end of bed.
8.4 Locking handles
Locking handles, such as B, Figure 8-1, can be
rotated to more convenient position. Lift up on
handle, rotate it on pin, then release it, making sure
it seats on pin.
Figure 8-3: live center cap removal
8.6 Indexer
The indexer has 48 evenly spaced holes concentric
to the spindle, and is used to create evenly spaced
features in a workpiece, while keeping the lathe
spindle locked; for example, when cutting flutes on
a spindle blank with a router, while the spindle blank
is secured between lathe centers. When the lathe is
powered, the digital readout can be used for easy
locating of index positions, as follows.
1. Turn on power switch behind headstock.
Spindle should remain off.
2. Push index position button (F, Figure 8-4).
Digital readout will change from RPM setting to
index setting.
3. Rotate workpiece by hand to desired position,
then push in index pin (G, Figure 8-4) and turn
workpiece slightly until pin engages hole.
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4. Screw index pin (G) into headstock to lock
spindle.
5. Cut first flute in workpiece.
6. Push index position button (F) to set engaged
index position at zero.
7. Unscrew index pin (G) to release spindle, then
rotate workpiece until next desired hole shows
on readout.
8. Engage index pin, and rout second flute.
Continue process.
Example: If 6 evenly-spaced flutes are needed
around full workpiece circumference, use
positions 0, 8, 16, 24, 32, and 40.
IMPORTANT: When finished indexing, unscrew
and release index pin before turning spindle on!
Readout will revert to RPM setting when lathe
spindle is turned on.
Figure 8-5: center removal
8.7.2 Tailstock center
1. Install center into tailstock by pushing it into
tailstock spindle.
2. To remove a center, loosen locking handle (B,
Figure 8-1) and retract quill by rotating
handwheel counterclockwise until center
dislodges on its own. Do not allow center to fall
out of spindle, as it may get damaged.
8.8 Comparator
The spindle comparator consists of two comparator
centers inserted into the brackets at rear of lathe.
The comparator is used to mount a finished, or
“reference” spindle, from which measurements can
be taken, the measurements being transferred to
the new piece being turned.
Figure 8-4
8.7 Centers: installing/removing
8.7.1 Headstock center
1. Disconnect Lathe from power source.
2. To install a spur center or live center (the spur
center should first be mounted to your
workpiece; see sect. 10.3 for more details),
clean tapered end of center and inside of
headstock spindle, then push center into
headstock spindle.
3. To remove a spur center or live center, first
remove workpiece from Lathe. Insert knockout
rod (Figure 8-5) through hole in handwheel and
firmly tap tapered end of spur center. The
sliding collar on the knockout rod helps give the
necessary impact without having to use a mallet
against the end of the rod.
IMPORTANT: Hold the center by either placing
thumb and forefinger on outside diameter of
spur center, or wrapping the center with a rag.
The center can be damaged if allowed to fall.
installed when using spindle comparator. Use
caution and wear a face mask when turning
without guard installed.
1. Install comparator spur center into guard
bracket, by lifting up on plunger and inserting
comparator spur center until its point is about
even with point of spur center in headstock
spindle. See Figure 8-6. The plunger in the
bracket must engage one of the holes in the
comparator center at this position.
A spindle guard cannot be
Figure 8-6: comparator
2. Install comparator dead center in the tailstock
bracket and tighten locking handle. See Figure
8-7.
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3. Mount spur center with the spindle blank that
will be turned. Loosen tailstock locking handle,
and slide tailstock until live center is about 1inch from spindle blank, then tighten locking
handle. Advance live center using tailstock
handwheel, until live center is secured in
spindle blank.
4. Mount reference spindle between comparator
centers, as shown in Figure 8-7.
NOTE: Reference spindle should be mounted
last after all adjustment of tailstock and quill has
been accomplished with spindle blank.
Likewise, when turning operation is complete,
remove reference spindle first.
Figure 8-7: comparator
(shown with optional 20” bed extension)
8.9 Face plate: installing/removing
1. Disconnect Lathe from power source.
2. Mount face plate to your bowl blank.
3. Rotate spindle lock switch (Figure 8-8) and
rotate handwheel slightly until lock engages
with spindle.
4. Install face plate onto threads of headstock
spindle and rotate clockwise hand-tight. When
the Lathe is turned on (forward rotation), the
rotational force will snug the face plate even
farther onto the threads.
If at any time you will be
reversing spindle rotation, make sure the two
set screws in the face plate are tight! One of
these is shown in Figure 8-8. Fail ure to do this
may cause face plate to loosen from headstock
spindle.
5. To remove face plate, loosen the two socket set
screws (Figure 8-8). Engage spindle lock switch
and turn face plate counter-clockwise with face
plate wrench, as shown.
Figure 8-8: faceplate
8.10 Speed change
1. Disconnect Lathe from power source.
2. Pull open access door on headstock.
3. Loosen pivot lock handle (J, Figure 8-9) and lift
up tension handle (K, Figure 8-9) to raise motor.
Tighten pivot lock handle (J, Figure 8-9) to hold
motor in raised position.
4. There should be sufficient slack in belt to
reposition it to the other steps on the sheaves.
The label on the access door shows the
required belt position.
5. Loosen pivot lock handle (J, Figure 8-9) and
lower motor to tension belt. Be sure that the
Poly-V grooves of belt seat properly in the
corresponding groove of sheave. Do not
overtension; a very light pressure on the tension
handle (K, Figure 8-9) is adequate to prevent
belt slippage.
6. Tighten pivot lock handle (J, Figure 8-9).
8.11 Sheave and belt alignment
The motor and spindle sheaves are aligned by the
manufacturer, but if any service is performed that
affects their alignment it is very important that they
be realigned. To realign them, loosen the two set
screws on spindle sheave (L, Figure 8-9) with a hex
wrench, and slide spindle sheave into proper
position. Retighten set screws.
When sheaves and belt are properly aligned, there
should be no unusual pulsing sounds or noise
coming from the belt.
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Figure 8-9: sheave/belt alignment
8.12 Sheave/drive belt replacement
Figure 8-10: sensor and spindle lock collars
IMPORTANT: Replacing the spindle sheave or belt
can be a difficult procedure. If you do not feel
confident performing this action, take the headstock
to an authorized Powermatic service center.
1. Disconnect lathe from power source.
2. Loosen lock handle (J, Figure 8-9) and lift up
handle (K) to raise motor.
3. Tighten lock handle (J) to hold motor in rais ed
position. Slip belt off pulleys.
4. Loosen two set screws on handwheel (M,
Figure 8-9) with a hex key, and pull handwheel
off headstock spindle.
5. Loosen and remove bearing lock nut and
tabbed lock washer (see O/N, Figure 8-12).
6. Loosen two set screws on sensor collar (R,
Figure 8-10).
7. Remove plate (S, Figure 8-10) and spindle lock
switch (T, Figure 8-10). Remove inner plate (U,
Figure 8-10) and insert hex wrench through
hole to loosen set screw in spindle lock collar
(Figure 8-11).
8. Slide spindle to the right a short way out of
headstock, just enough to remove sheave or
belt. NOTE: You may have to tap end of spindle
with a wood block to move it. (Never use a steel
face hammer directly against spindle.)
9. If replacing spindle sheave, loosen two set
screws (L, Figure 8-9), and slide sheave off
spindle. Install new spindle sheave, loosely
securing the two set screws. Make sure the
sheave is oriented properly.
Figure 8-11: loosen spindle lock collar
10. Slide spindle back into place. Position spindle
lock collar and sensor collar and tighten set
screws.
IMPORTANT: The sensor collar must be
positioned correctly for digital readout to
function.
11. Install tabbed lock washer, and bearing lock nut
(N/O, Figure 8-12). Check for any spindle play
at this point (see sect. 8.13).
12. Reinstall handwheel and tighten set screws (M,
Figure 8-9).
13. Reinstall plates and spindle lock switch (Figure
8-10).
14. Align new sheave (see sect. 8.11) then tighten
two set screws (L, Figure 8-9) securely on
sheave.
15. Loosen lock handle (J) and allow motor to
lower. Do not over-tension; a very light pressure
on tension handle (K) is adequate to prevent
belt slippage.
16. Retighten lock handle (J).
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8.13 Checking spindle play
The spindle bearing has been set at the factory for
general turning applications. There should be no
"end play" or looseness along the spindle’s axis. If
any looseness should occur, it may be rectified by
carefully tightening the bearing lock nut on the
spindle, as follows.
1. Use a screwdriver to carefully bend back any
tabs on the tabbed lock washer (N, Figure 8-12)
that interfere with the insets on the bearing lock
nut (O, Figure 8-12).
2. Place the end of a flat head screwdriver down
against one of the insets of the bearing lock nut
(O, Figure 8-12).
3. Tap the handle of screwdriver with a mallet so
that it turns the bearing lock nut (O, Figure 8-
12) tighter in a clockwise direction. Rotate
bearing lock nut only about 1/16” at a time.
Do not over-tighten the
bearing lock nut or the spindle bearings will
overheat.
power is restored. Cycle the on/off switch in order to
restart the machine.
(C) Spindle direction: Can be activated while
spindle is turning – spindle will automatically slow to
a stop before reversing direction.
When turning w ith a face plate,
make sure both set screws on the face plate are
tight (see Figure 8-8) before reversing spindle.
Failure to comply may cause face plate to spin
loose from spindle.
(D) Speed control dial: Always start Lathe at
lowest speed, with dial rotated all the way counterclockwise.
(E) Digital readout: Displays spindle speed or
indexing position.
(F) Indexer position: Push to reset index re fere nce
to zero. See sect. 8-6.
(G) Spindle lock.
The control box is removable and has a magnetic
base. See inset, Figure 9-1. Pull out and place on
any metal surface of lathe.
Figure 8-12: correcting spindle play
4. The bearing lock nut should be tightened just
enough to remove the end play and the spindle
should still rotate very freely. Run the lathe for
a time, and check for heat from the spindle
bearings. If the bearings are running hot, the
bearing lock nut is too tight and should be
loosened slightly.
5. After the bearing lock nut (O, Figure 8-12) has
been properly adjusted, carefully bend back into
place any tabs on the tabbed lock washer (N,
Figure 8-12).
9.0 Operating controls
See Figure 9-1.
(A) Power switch: Activates power flow to inverter
and motor.
(B) Spindle on/off: Push green button to activate
spindle; red to stop.
NOTE: If there is a power outage while operating the
Lathe, the Lathe will not automatically restart once
Figure 9-1: operating controls
A.C. Inverter (mounted to rear of headstock)
The 3520C Lathe uses the latest technology in A.C.
inverter drives to provide infinitely variable spindle
speeds within the specified ranges. The inverter
controls the speed of the motor by varying the
frequency of the voltage supplied to the motor. The
inverter provides an acceleration ramp that
eliminates the shock of normal starting.
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Also, a braking feature eliminates long coasting
periods after the Lathe is turned off.
The 2 horsepower motor is specially designed for
use with inverter drives, and is balanced to reduce
noise and minimize vibration.
The A.C. Inverter does not require any programming
– it is pre-programmed from the factory. Use only
the controls on the front of the headstock to operate
lathe. If you suspect a problem with the inverter or
inverter settings, contact Powermatic technical
service at 1-800-274-6846.
A lightning strike or power
surge may cause the inverter to fail. When lathe
is not in use, disconnect power plug, or have a
3-pole disconnect installed on the power side.
10.0 Operation
The information which follows is general in nature
and not intended to be a complete course in wood
turning. Nothing can replace the knowledge gained
by discussions with experienced wood-turners or
consulting books, trade articles, and internet
forums. Above all, simple trial and error will aid in
developing proficiency in the craft.
Skews – 1-1/2" and 1" or 1-1/4", used to make
finishing cuts and details.
Large Roughing Gouge – 1" to 1-1/4", used to
eliminate waste wood.
Spindle Gouges – 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", used to turn
beads, coves and other details.
Deep Fluted Bowl Gouge – 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2",
used for turning bowls & plates.
Square Scraper (Bedan) – 3/8” or 1/2", used to
create square shoulders.
Large Round Nose (Domed) Scraper – 1-1/2",
used to reduce ridges on interior of bowls, round
edges of bowls, etc.
Parting Tool - 1/8", used for scraping, making a cutoff, or to set diameters for sizing.
10.1 Inspection
Before operating the lathe, check that everything is
in proper working order:
1. Level your machine; use the adjustable levelers
to help reduce vibration.
2. Check bearings; adjust only if endplay exists.
3. Check belt; it should be snug but not overly
tight.
4. Bed ways; keep clean, use steel wool to remove
any rust spots, and apply paste wax to prevent
buildup of rust and finishes.
5. Tool support; use a mill file to remove nicks and
dings.
6. Spindle tapers; should be clean and free of dust
and chips for proper seating of tapers.
7. Tailstock; clean and lubricate quill and locking
device.
8. Lighting; proper lighting is essential to eliminate
shadows and reduce eye strain.
10.2 Turning tools
If possible, select only fine quality, high-speed steel
turning tools. High-speed steel tools hold an edge
and last longer than ordinary carbon steel. As one
becomes proficient in turning, a variety of specialty
tools for specific applications may be acquired. The
following tools provide the basics for most
woodturning projects (see Figure 10-1):
Figure 10-1: Basic Turning Tools
For safety and best performance, keep tools s harp.
If a tool stops cutting or requires excessive pressure
to make a cut, it needs to be sharpened. A number
of brand name sharpening jigs and fixtures are
available; however, a woodturner should learn to
sharpen tools freehand.
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For best results, use a slow speed grinder (1800
rpm) fitted with a 60-grit aluminum oxide wheel (for
shaping) and a 100-grit alum. oxide wheel (for final
sharpening and touchup). The grinder should be
located near your lathe and at a comfortable height.
A diamond dresser will keep the wheels true and
eliminate glazing.
Never allow the tool to rest in one place on the
wheel; keep it moving and use a light touch.
Carbon steel tools can overheat easily and should
be cooled frequently. If the edge turns blue, it has
lost its temper and should be ground past the blue
area. High-speed steel tools are not as likely to
overheat, but can be damaged if allowed to get red
hot. High-speed steel tools should not be quenched
for cooling. Honing with a diamond lap or slipstone
will save trips to the grinder and keep the edge
fresh.
10.3 Spindle turning
Spindle turning takes place between the centers of
the lathe. It requires a spur or drive center in the
headstock and a live or dead center in the tailstock.
A cup center rather than a cone center in the
tailstock will often reduce the risk of splitting the
stock.
Figure 10-2 shows the basic profile shapes in
spindle turning.
Figure 10-3
3. Drive the spur center about 1/4” into the
workpiece, using a wood mallet or dead blow
hammer as shown in Figure 10-4. Be careful
that you do not split the workpiece. Never use
a steel face hammer and never drive the
workpiece onto the spur center while it is
mounted in the Lathe spindle.
4. Make sure the headstock is locked to the Lathe
bed.
5. Clean the tapered end of the spur center and
the inside of the headstock spindle.
6. Insert the tapered end of the spur center (with
the attached workpiece) into the headstock
spindle.
Figure 10-2
10.3.1 Stock selection
Stock for spindles should be straight grained and
free of checks, cracks, knots and other defects. It
should be cut 1/8" to 1/4" larger than the finished
diameter and may require additional length so the
ends can be removed later. Larger stock should
have the corners removed to produce an octagon
making the piece easier to rough down to a cylinder.
1. With a combination square, or plastic center
finder for round stock, locate and mark center
on each end of the workpiece. Accuracy is not
critical on full rounds but extremely important on
stock where square sections are to remain. Put
a dimple in the stock with an awl or nail, or use
a spring-loaded automatic center punch.
2. Extremely hard woods may require kerfs cut
into the ends of the stock (Figure 10-3) using a
band saw, so the wood will accept the spur
center and the live center.
7. Support the workpiece while bringing the
tailstock into position about 1” away from the
end of the workpiece. Lock the tailstock to the
bed.
Figure 10-4
8. Advance the tailstock spindle with the
handwheel in order to seat the live center into
the workpiece. Use enough pressure to secure
the workpiece between the centers so that it
won’t fly off, but do not use excessive pressure.
9. Tighten the spindle locking handle.
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The tailstock ram is capable of
exerting excessive pressure against the
workpiece and the headstock. Apply only
sufficient force with the tailstock to hold the
workpiece securely in place. Excessive
pressure can overheat center bearings and
damage both workpiece and Lathe.
10. Move tool support into position. It should be
parallel to the workpiece, just below the
centerline and approximately 1/8" to 1/4" from
the corners of the workpiece to be turned, as in
Figure 10-5. Tighten support base to Lathe bed.
11. Rotate workpiece by hand to check for proper
clearance.
12. Start lathe at lowest speed and bring it up to the
appropriate RPM for the size of workpiece
used. Consult digital readout on the headstock.
Figure 10-6: roughing out
4. Keep as much of the bevel of the tool as
possible in contact with the workpiece to ensure
control and avoid catches. NOTE: Always cut
down-hill, or from large diameter to small
diameter. Always work toward the end of a
work-piece, never start cutting at the end.
5. Once the workpiece is roughed down to a
cylinder, smooth it with a large skew. Keep the
skew handle perpendicular to the spindle and
use only the center third of the cutting edge for
a long smoothing cut (touching one of the points
of the skew to the spinning workpiece may
cause a catch and ruin the workpiece).
6. Add details to the workpiece with skew, parting
tool, scraper or spindle gouge.
Figure 10-5
10.3.2 Cutti ng techniques
Roughing out
1. Begin with a large roughing gouge. Place the
tool on the tool support with the heel of the tool
on the surface to be cut.
2. Slowly and gently raise tool handle until cutting
edge comes into contact with the workpiece.
3. Beginning about 2” from the tailstock end of the
workpiece, roll the flute (hollowed-out portion)
of the tool in the direction of the cut. See Figure
10-6. Make long sweeping cuts in a continuous
motion to rough the piece down to a cylinder.
Beads
1. Make a parting cut for what is to be a bead to
the desired depth. Place the parting tool on the
tool support and move tool forward to make the
full bevel of the tool come into contact with the
workpiece. Gently raise handle to make cut to
the appropriate depth.
2. Repeat for other side of the bead.
3. Using a small skew or spindle gouge, start in
the center between the two cuts and cut down
each side to form the bead. Roll the tool in
direction of cut.
Coves
1. Use a spindle gouge. With the flute of the tool
at 90 degrees to the workpiece, touch the point
of the tool to the workpiece and roll in towards
the bottom of the cove. See Figure 10-7. Stop
at the bottom; attempting to go up the
opposite side may cause the tool to catch.
2. Move the tool over the desired width of the
cove.
3. With the flute facing the opposite direction,
repeat step 1 for other side of cove. Stop at
bottom of cut.
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Figure 10-7: coves
"V" Cuts
1. Use the long point of the skew. (NOTE: Do not
press the long point of the skew directly into the
workpiece to create the "V"; this will result in a
burned or burnished "V" with fibers being rolled
up at both sides.)
2. Lightly mark the center of the "V" with the tip of
the skew.
3. Move the point of the skew to the right half of
the desired width of your cut.
4. With the bevel parallel to the right side of the
cut, raise the handle and push the tool in to the
desired depth, as shown in Figure 10-8.
Figure 10-8: V-cuts
5. Repeat from the left side. The two cuts should
meet at the bottom and leave a clean "V" cut.
6. Additional cuts may be taken to add to either the
depth or width of the cut.
Parting Off
1. Use parting tool.
2. Adjust lathe speed to lower RPM for parting
through a workpiece.
3. Place tool on tool support and raise the handle
until it starts to cut and continue to cut toward
the center of the workpiece.
4. Loosely hold on to the piece in one hand as it
separates from the waste wood.
Sanding and Finishing
Leaving clean cuts will reduce the amount of
sanding required. Move the tool support out of the
way, adjust the lathe to a low speed, and begin with
fine sandpaper (120 grit or finer). Coarser
sandpaper will leave deep scratches that are difficult
to remove, and dull crisp details on the spindle.
Progress through each grit without skipping grits (for
example, do not jump from 120 grit to 220 grit). Fold
the sandpaper into a pad; do not wrap sandpaper
around your fingers or the workpiece.To apply a
finish, the workpiece can be left on the lathe.
Turn off the lathe and use a brush or paper towel to
apply the finish. Remove excess finish before
restarting lathe. Allow to dry and sand again with
320 or 400 grit sandpaper. Apply second coat of
finish and buff.
10.4 Face plate and bowl turning
Face plate turning is normally done on the inboard
side of the headstock over the bed. Larger
workpieces must be turned on the outboard side
(remove tailstock and tool support base, and move
headstock to opposite end of bed - see Figure 6-7).
10.4.1 Mounting stock
Use of a face plate is the most common method for
holding a block of wood for turning bowls and plates:
1. Select stock at least 1/8" to 1/4" larger than
each dimension on the finished workpiece.
2. Always select the largest diameter face plate
that can be used for the workpiece to be turned.
3. True one surface of the workpiece for mounting
against the face plate.
4. Using the face plate as a template, mark the
location of the mounting holes on the
workpiece, and drill pilot holes of the
appropriate size. Face plates are drilled for No.
12 screws. (Phillips and square drive screws
will hold up better than slotted screws. Sheel
metal screws are case hardened with deeper
and sharper threads than wood screws.)
If the mounting screws on the face plate interfere
with the workpiece, a glue or waste block can be
used:
5. Make a block the same diameter as the face
plate, Figure 10-9. Both waste block and
workpiece should have flat surfaces for gluing.
6. Glue the block to the workpiece. Avoid using
brown paper or newspaper between the waste
block and workpiece. It may work fine if you are
using scrapers, but a slight catch with a bowl
gouge can separate the two.
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NOTE: When using a waste block, be careful with
the adhesive you select. Dry workpieces can be
bonded with ordinary white or yellow glue but must
be clamped to ensure a good bond. Green
workpieces require cyanoacrylate type glue.
Figure 10-9: faceplate mounting
10.4.2 Faceplate or chuck?
While faceplates are the simplest, most reliable
method of holding a block of wood for turning,
chucks can also be used. As there are dozens of
chucks to choose from, the woodturner should firs t
consider all the different types of turning that will be
done, and read reports or discuss with other turners
who own chucks before making a decision.
A chuck is not a requirement, but is handy when
working on more than one piece at a time. Rather
than removing screws, you simply open the chuck
and change workpieces.
The most popular ones are four jaw scroll chucks
with a variety of jaws to accommodate different size
tenons. Most also come with a screw chuck as well.
10.4.3 Wood selection
Firewood is the cheapest, most widely available
stock to use while learning to turn bowls. Simply
waste wood for a while practicing turning
techniques. Develop skill with each tool before
attempting to make a finished piece. It is best to start
with dry wood, without worrying about drying or
distortion. Once turning becomes comfortable, try
green wood which cuts very easily. As the turner
gains experience, he or she will find extraordinary
grain and figure in the form of burls, crotches and
bark inclusions.
10.4.4 Checks and cracks
Green wood will check and crack. For best results,
leave logs in as long a length as you can handle. As
the material starts to dry, surface cracks will develop
on the ends of the log. Cut off two to three inches
and you should find good, sound wood. Also cut the
log in half along the pith to avoid having it in the
finished piece. Most checks radiate from the pith.
As you turn bowls from green wood, make sure you
maintain a consistent wall thickness throughout the
piece. Leaving a piece thick in some areas and thin
in others will cause the wood to dry unevenly and
promote checks and cracks.
10.4.5 Distortion
Distortion is a problem associated with turning
green wood. It will vary from one type of wood to the
next. Typically, fruitwoods tend to distort more than
others. It also varies with the time of year the tree
was cut and how the logs are stored.
10.4.6 Tools for bowl turning
The deep fluted bowl gouge is the most essential
and versatile tool for most bowl and plate turning.
The bowl gouge is heavier and easier to control than
other types of gouges. It also allows removal of
wood much faster and with less vibration than other
gouges. Most average sized bowl work can be
accomplished with a 3/8" or 1/2" bowl gouge. A 1/4"
bowl gouge is best suited for smaller bowls and light
finishing cuts. Larger 3/4" and 1" bowl gouges are
only used for extremely large pieces.
Large domed scrapers can also be used to help
clean up the interior surfaces of bowls. A light touch
with the scraper slightly tilted will eliminate some of
the ridges occasionally left by an inexperienced
bowl gouge.
10.4.7 Bowl Turning Techniques
To Shape Outside of Bowl:
1. Odd shaped burls, crotches and other irregular
shaped blanks require special preparation
before mounting in a chuck or onto a faceplate.
Remove the bark, if there is any, from what
appears to be the center of the top of the
workpiece.
2. Drive spur center into the to p of the workpiece
with a mallet or dead blow hammer.
3. Slip the spur center into the headstock taper
and bring the tailstock with a live or ball bearing
center into position. Lock the tailstock to the bed
and advance the tailstock spindle in order to
seat the cup center into the workpiece. Tighten
the ram locking handle.
4. Turn workpiece by hand to ensure proper
clearance.
5. Start lathe at lowest speed and bring it up to the
maximum safe speed for the size of work to be
turned (see sect. 13.0). If the machine starts to
vibrate, lower the speed until vibration stops.
6. Rough out the outside of the bowl with the 1/2"
deep fluted bowl gouge, holding the handle of
the tool firmly against your hip. For best control,
use your whole body to move the gouge
through the workpiece.
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7. As the bowl takes shape, work on the bottom
(tailstock end) to accomodate attaching a face
plate.
8. Turn a short tenon (about 1/8" long) the size of
the hole in the faceplate. See Figure 10-10. This
will allow centering the workpiece when the
faceplate is attached.
Figure 10-10
9. (NOTE: If you plan to use a chuck, turn a tenon
of the appropriate length and diameter to fit your
chuck.)
10. Stop the lathe, remove workpiece and attach
face plate or chuck (see sect. 10.4.1, Mounting Stock).
The surfaces of faceplate and
workpiece should mount flush to each other.
11. Finish turning the outside of bowl with 1/2" or
3/8" bowl gouge. Leave additional material at
base of bowl for support while turning interior.
This will be removed later.
To Shape Interior of Bowl:
1. Stop the lathe and move tailstock away. (You
may want to remove the center from the
tailstock to avoid bumping it with your elbow.)
2. Adjust tool support in front of the bowl just below
centerline, at a right angle to the lathe ways.
3. Rotate workpiece by hand to check clearance.
4. Face off top of bowl by making a light shearing
cut across the top of workpiece, from rim to
center.
5. Place 1/2" bowl gouge on tool support at center
of the workpiece with the flute facing top of
bowl. The tool handle should be level and
pointed toward the four o'clock position, as
shown in Figure 10-11.
Figure 10-11
6. Use the left hand to control cutting edge of
gouge, while right hand swings tool handle
around toward your body (Figure 10-11). The
flute should start out facing top of workpiece,
and rotate upward as it moves deeper into the
bowl to maintain a clean even curve. As the tool
goes deeper into the bowl, progressively work
out toward the rim. It may be necessary to turn
the tool support into the piece as you get deeper
into the bowl.
(NOTE: Try to make one, very light continuous
movement from the rim to the bottom of the
bowl to ensure a clean, sweeping curve through
the piece. Should there be a few small ridges
left, a light cut with a large domed scraper can
even out the surface.)
7. Develop wall thickness at the rim and maintain
it as you work deeper into the bowl (Once the
piece is thin toward the bottom, you cannot
make it thinner at the rim). When the interior is
finished, move the tool support to exterior to redefine bottom of bowl. (General rule of thumb:
the base should be approximately 1/3 the
overall diameter of the bowl).
8. Work the tight area around faceplate or chuck
with 1/4" bowl gouge.
9. Begin the separation with a parting tool, but do
not cut all the way through yet.
10.4.8 Sanding and finishing
1. Remove the tool support and adjust lathe speed
to approximately 500 RPM. High speed can
build friction while sanding and cause heat
check in some woods.
2. Begin with fine sandpaper (120 grit) and
progress through each grit, using only light
pressure. Coarser sandpaper tends to leave
deep scratches that are hard to eliminate. Use
power-sanding techniques to avoid concentric
sanding marks around your finished piece.
Avoid rounding over the rim and foot with
sandpaper; try to keep details crisp. Finish
sanding with 220 grit.
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3. Remove sanding dust with tack rags or
compressed air and, with lathe turned off, apply
first coat of finish. Let stand for several minutes,
wipe off excess. Allow to dry before sanding
again with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper.
4. Turn lathe back on and continue the separation
cut almost all the way through the base. Stop at
about 3" and use a small fine tooth saw to
separate the bowl from the waste.
5. Apply second finish coat and allow to dry before
buffing.
11.0 User-maintenance
Before doing maintenance on
the Lathe, disconnect it from the electrical
supply by pulling out the plug or sw itching off
the main switch. Failure to compl y may cause
serious injury.
Maintenance on the 3520C Lathe should be
performed at periodic intervals to ensure that the
machine is in proper working order, that all fasteners
are tight, and all necessary adjustments have been
made. Inspection and maintenance should be
performed at least twice a year, but more frequently
if the Lathe receives constant use.
Clean and oil the lathe bed so that headstock,
tailstock and tool support base will slide easily.
Clean any rust spots that may develop on the bed
with a commercial rust remover.
Use compressed air or a vacuum in the headstock
interior, in order to keep sawdust and chips from
accumulating on belts and sheaves. Also blow off
debris that accumulates on the inverter. Do not disassemble inverter to clean!
Frequently clean out the Morse tapers on both
headstock and tailstock. Commercially available
taper cleaners may be acquired from tool stores.
11.1 Additional servicing
Any other servicing should be performed by an
authorized service representative.
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12.0 Optional Accessories
Below are some of the accessory items available for your 3520C lathe. These items are purc hased separately;
contact your Powermatic dealer for more information.
6294740 – Bowl turning tool support (RH)
6294751 – Bowl turning tool support (LH)
Right hand Left hand
6294739 – Tool support, 6-inch
6294732 – Heavy duty outboard turning stand
1353002 – 20-inch bed extension kit
6294721 – Tailstock swing away
6294901 – Lamp holder set
6294728 – Guard Assembly
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13.0 Troubleshooting 3520C Lathe
Trouble Probable CauseRemedy
Motor fails to develop
full power.
Motor or spindle stalls
or will not start.
Excessive vibration. Workpiece warped, out of round, has
Lathe runs at one
speed only.
Tools tend to grab or
dig in.
Headstock moves
when applying
pressure with
Tailstock.
Tailstock moves when
applying pressure.
Power line overloaded. Correct overload condition.
Undersize wires in power supply
system.
Faulty inverter. Contact Powermatic Technical Service.
Worn motor. Replace motor.
Excessive cut. Reduce depth of cut.
Improper belt adjustment, or worn or
broken belt.
Improper cooling of motor. Blow out sawdust from motor housing
major flaw, or was improperly prepared
for turning.
Worn spindle bearings. Replace spindle bearings.
Worn drive belt. Replace drive belt.
Motor mount lock handle is loose. Tighten lock handle.
Lathe on uneven surface. Adjust levelers.
Potentiometer faulty. Replace potentiometer.
Electronic AC inverter is not
programmed properly, or is defective, or
there is loose wiring.
Dull tools. Keep tools sharp.
Tool support set too low. Reposition tool support height.
Tool support set too far from workpiece. Reposition tool support closer to
Improper tool being used. Use correct tool for operation.
Headstock not locked to bed. Tighten headstock locking handle.
Excessive pressure being applied by
tailstock (more than 500 lbs. of force).
Locking handle not tightened. Tighten locking handle.
Cam lock nut needs adjusting. Tighten cam lock nut.
Lathe bed and tailstock mating surfaces
are greasy or oily.
Table 2
Increase supply wire size.
Adjust or replace belt as needed.
fan.
Correct problem by planing or sawing
workpiece, or discard entirely and use
new workpiece.
Contact Powermatic Technical Service
to help identify problem; 800-274-6846.
workpiece.
Slide headstock to the left end, then
apply pressure to workpiece with
tailstock. Apply only sufficient force with
tailstock to hold workpiece securely in
place.
Remove tailstock and clean surfaces
with a cleaner/degreaser. Re-apply light
coat of oil to bed surface.
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14.0 Recommended lathe speeds (per diameter of workpiece)
Diameter of Work Roughing RPM General Cutting RPM Finishing RPM
Under 2” 1520 3000 3000
2” to 4” 760 1600 2290
4” to 6” 510 1080 1500
6” to 8” 380 810 1125
8” to 10” 300 650 900
10” to 12” 255 540 750
12” to 14” 220 460 640
14” to 16” 190 400 560
16” to 20” 175 325 450
20” to 24” 175 260 375
Table 3
15.0 Replacement parts
Replacement parts are listed on the following pages. To order parts or reach our service department, call 1-800274-6848 Monday through Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. CST. Having the Model Number and Serial Number of
your machine available when you call will allow us to serve you quickly and accurately.
Non-proprietary parts, such as fasteners, can be found at local hardware stores, or may be ordered from
Powermatic.
Some parts are shown for reference only, and may not be available individually.
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15.1.1 3520C Headstock Assembly – Exploded View
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15.1.2 3520C Headstock Assembly – Parts List
Index No. Part No. Description Size Qty
1 ................ 6294725 .................... Spur Center ............................................................. MT2 ............................... 1
71 .............. 3520C-171 ................ Motor Mount Plate ................................................... ...................................... 1
.................. 3520C-176MF ........... Motor Fan ................................................................ ....... ............................... 1
.................. 3520C-176MFC ......... Motor Fan Cover ...................................................... ...................................... 1
41-4 ........... 6295915 .................... Control Pot Assembly .............................................. ...................................... 1
41-5 ........... 3520C-1415 .............. Control Switch.......................................................... ...................................... 1
15 .............. 3520C-215 ................ Tool Support Rod .................................................... ...................................... 1
16 .............. TS-0271031 .............. Set Screw ................................................................ 3/8"-16x3/8" .................. 2
22 .............. 6295902 .................... Ball Bearing Live Center Assembly (includes #22-1 thru 22-4) ...................... 1
22-1 ........... 6295905 .................... Live Center Cap ....................................................... ...................................... 1
22-2 ........... 6295904 .................... Live Center Tip ........................................................ ...................................... 1
22-3 ........... 6295903 .................... Live Center Body ..................................................... ...................................... 1
22-4 ........... 6295906 .................... Live Center Rod ....................................................... ...................................... 1
15.6 Optional Accessories: #6294732, Outboard Turning Stand
Index No. Part No. Description Size Qty.
.................. 6294732 .................... Heavy Duty Outboard Turning Stand Assembly (items 1 thru 7) ......................
1 ................ 3042503 .................... Turning Stand Base ........................................................................................ 1
5 ................ 3423055 .................... Turning Stand Leg .......................................................................................... 1
44 .............. * ................................. Jam Nut ................................................................... 3/8” ................................ 2
NOTE: Powermatic lamps are supplied by Moffatt. For replacement parts indicated by an asterisk
(*), contact Moffatt directly at 800-346-0761.
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16.0 Electrical connections for #1353001 – 3520C Lathe
16.1 Wiring diagram 1 of 2
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16.2 Wiring diagram 2 of 2
/
S
L
2
R
/
L
1
1
3
2
4
1
+
B
V
U
W
2
B
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17.0 Warranty and Service
Powermatic® warrants every product it sells against manufacturers’ defects. If one of our tools needs service or
repair, please contact Technical Service by calling 1-800-274-6846, 8AM to 5PM CST, Monday through Friday.
Warranty Period
The general warranty lasts for the time period specified in the literature included with your product or on the official
Powermatic branded website.
•Powermatic products carry a limited warranty which varies in duration based upon the product. (See chart
below)
• Accessories carry a limited warranty of one year from the date of receipt.
• Consumable items are defined as expendable parts or accessories expected to become inoperable within a
reasonable amount of use and are covered by a 90 day limited warranty against manufacturer’s defects.
Who is Covered
This warranty covers only the initial purchaser of the product from the date of delivery.
What is Covered
This warranty covers any defects in workmanship or materials subject to the limitations stated below. This warranty
does not cover failures due directly or indirectly to misuse, abuse, negligence or accidents, normal wear-and-tear,
improper repair, alterations or lack of maintenance. Powermatic woodworking machinery is designed to be used with
Wood. Use of these machines in the processing of metal, plastics, or other materials may void the warranty. The
exceptions are acrylics and other natural items that are made specifically for wood turning.
Warranty Limitations
Woodworking products with a Five Year Warranty that are used for commercial or industrial purposes default to a
Two Year Warranty. Please contact Technical Service at 1-800-274-6846 for further clarification.
How to Get Technical Support
Please contact Technical Service by calling 1-800-274-6846. Please note that you will be asked to provide proof
of initial purchase when calling. If a product requires further inspection, the Technical Service representative will
explain and assist with any additional action needed. Powermatic has Authorized Service Centers located throughout
the United States. For the name of an Authorized Service Center in your area call 1-800-274-6846 or use the Service
Center Locator on the Powermatic website.
More Information
Powermatic is constantly adding new products. For complete, up-to-date product information, check with your local
distributor or visit the Powermatic website.
How State Law Applies
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, subject to applicable state law.
Limitations on This Warranty
POWERMATIC LIMITS ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES TO THE PERIOD OF THE LIMITED WARRANTY FOR EACH
PRODUCT. EXCEPT AS STATED HEREIN, ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS
FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE ARE EXCLUDED. SOME STATES DO NOT ALLOW LIMITATIONS ON HOW
LONG AN IMPLIED WARRANTY LASTS, SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU.
POWERMATIC SHALL IN NO EVENT BE LIABLE FOR DEATH, INJURIES TO PERSONS OR PROPERTY, OR
FOR INCIDENTAL, CONTINGENT, SPECIAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES ARISING FROM THE USE OF
OUR PRODUCTS. SOME STATES DO NOT ALLOW THE EXCLUSION OR LIMITATION OF INCIDENTAL OR
CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU.
Powermatic sells through distributors only. The specifications listed in Powermatic printed materials and on the official
Powermatic website are given as general information and are not binding. Powermatic reserves the right to effect at
any time, without prior notice, those alterations to parts, fittings, and accessory equipment which they may deem
necessary for any reason whatsoever.
Product Listing with Warranty Period
90 Days – Parts; Consumable items
1 Year – Motors, Machine Accessories
2 Year – Woodworking Machinery used for industrial or commercial purposes
5 Year – Woodworking Machinery
NOTE: Powermatic is a division of JPW Industries, Inc. References in this document to Powermatic also apply to
JPW Industries, Inc., or any of its successors in interest to the Powermatic brand.
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427 New Sanford Road
LaVergne, Tennessee 37086
Phone: 800-274-6848
www.powermatic.com
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