equipmentreview
22
|
AUSTRALIANHI-FI
way down to 1-ohm, a load that
would be the death of almost all
solid-state amplifiers. Oh, a note.
Be careful with these WBT terminals, because they have a ‘double
action’ thread, where the top nut
tightens on banana plugs and the
bottom nut tightens on cable or pin
connectors. If you don’t loosen the
top nut, for example, you won’t be
able to insert plugs at all!
A complaint that’s becoming
more common in audiophile (and
other!) circles is that ‘They don’t
make them like they used to.’
However true that statement might
be about many hi-fi brands, it
could never be said about
McIntosh’s products because basically they’ve been building them
exactly the same way for the last 50
or so years. While the company has
upgraded circuitry as better components have become available
(metal film resistors, polypropylene capacitors, etc) McIntosh has
made absolutely no attempt to
make its products ‘cheaper’. It
doesn’t even produce a ‘budget’
line, for example.
Just in case I’ve given you the
idea that McIntosh has been making valve amplifiers all these years,
I should disabuse you of this,
because it isn’t true. McIntosh
started designing and building
solid-state amplifiers almost the
minute transistors became available, commencing with the C24
preamplifier in 1964. Interestingly,
the company’s 1700 receiver, also
produced in 1964, was a hybrid,
but not the hybrid you’d expect. In
this receiver it was the tuner section that used the valves: the preamp and amplifier sections were
solid state!
It’s a source of some consternation to aficionados of McIntosh’s
valve designs that the current
McIntosh ‘look’ actually stemmed
from a solid state model, the
MC2505, which was the first separate solid state power amplifier
ever made by McIntosh. This amp
introduced the all-glass front panel,
the illuminated output level
meters, the Sentry Monitor circuitry and the McIntosh ‘autoformer’. I
photographs of the MC2102 show
this cage, because the amp looks so
great without it, and you don’t really have to fit it at all if you don’t
want to. I suppose it depends on
your home situation. If, for example, children are likely to have
access to the amplifier, I’d recommend ALWAYS using the cage.) My
understanding was that the KT88s
used in the MC2102 were made for
McIntosh by Svetlana (Russia) but
the ones in mine seemed to be
made in China. I love the sound of
KT88s (NOS rather than newly
manufactured), but if you’re a 6550
person, McIntosh is happy for you
to substitute.
McIntosh is not unaware of the
problem with heat, because in its
(absolutely excellent!) instruction
manual, it suggests you may care
to cut a hole in the table, bench or
shelf that’s supporting the MC2102,
to allow air to come up from immediately underneath the amplifier.
This is a great idea unless, like me,
you put the MC2102 on a polished
antique table! Needless to say, if
you’re one of those people who
likes positioning their amplifier on
the floor between their speakers, I
certainly would not recommend
this if your floor is carpeted.
When I was burning the MC2102
in (an entirely appropriate expression in this case!) I kept an eye on
the power meters, because the test
discs I use for burn-in have a wide
range of signals, and I was interested to see how accurate the meters
were, despite the fact that it’s my
personal opinion that power output meters on amplifiers are of
very little practical (if any!) use—
though I suppose they could alert
you to the presence of infrasonic or
ultrasonic signals. It seemed to me
that the meters responded very fast
and very accurately with tonebursts, impulses and pink and white
noise, though I didn’t have access
to any test equipment to verify the
exact speed of the needles, or the
calibration accuracy of the meter
markings. I’d have to warn that the
accuracy of the meters would also
depend to a large extent on the
speakers you use, and the particu-
should confess at this point that
this amp was also the first
McIntosh I ever experienced (I
regret to say that I couldn’t afford
to buy it.)
Listening Sessions
My McIntosh MC2102 came in
its original shipping package, so I
had to get it out myself (which
revealed to me—and my chiropractor—that it’s really a two-person
job!) and then plug in all the valves.
Generally, I’d imagine that
McIntosh dealers will deliver and
install the MC2102, so you won’t
have to worry about this, but if you
do, can I recommend you don’t
handle the valves with your fingers? It doesn’t matter if you do use
your fingers (otherwise dozens of
valves I’ve replaced over the years
would never have lasted as long as
they did) but you’ll find that if you
do, you’ll get fingerprints on them
that could be hard to shift after the
valves have heated up.
It’s often recommended that you
use white cotton gloves (and
indeed McIntosh provides a pair
for you), but I find these can be
slippery, making it tricky to grasp
the valve without running the risk
of dropping it. I used a new, dry
‘Chux’-style dishwashing cloth to
grab mine. Just to be on the safe
side, I’d install all the valves while
the MC2102 is still on the floor
(preferably carpeted) so that if you
do drop a valve, there’s no chance
of a breakage.
I am quite used to valve amplifiers running hot, which is nothing
less than you’d expect, particularly
if, like me, you’ve owned a few in
the past, but I found that the
MC2102 was like a small furnace! It
turns out that the eight KT88s are
driven with fixed bias, and because
of the cathode arrangement, each
one is driven by about 170-volts.
When you factor in the added heat
from the four 12AX7 input valves
and four 12AT7 valve drivers,
you’re looking at quite a handwarmer. After only a few hours of
operation, the metal cage that protects the 16 valves became almost
too hot to touch. (Actually very few