This Repair Manual is designed to facilitate competent repair of the engines listed herein.
The pictures and relevant descriptions show typical work that may not always be applicable to the engine in
hand, which nevertheless does not mean that they are not correct. In such cases the repair work is to be
planned and carried out in a similar way.
The expert knowledge necessary for handling Diesel engines was taken for granted when this publication
was compiled.
Any repair of components such as injection pump, alternator etc. ought to be left to our or the manufacturer’s service department.
MAN Nutzfahrzeuge Aktiengesellschaft
Nuremberg Works
We reserve the right to make technical modifications in the course of further development.
1999 MAN Nutzfahrzeuge Aktiengesellschaft
Reprinting, copying or translation, even in the form of excerpts, is forbidden without the written permission
of MAN. MAN expressly reserves all rights in accordance with the law on copyright.
This brief overview summarises important instructions and is structured into areas of main concern in order
to impart the knowledge necessary to prevent accidents involving injury to persons, damage to the engine
or other property and harm to the environment. Additional notes are included in the operator’s manual for
the engine.
Important: If despite all safety precautions an accident occurs as a result of contact with caustic acids,
penetration of fuel into the skin, scalding with hot oil, anti-freeze splashes into the eyes etc, consult a doc-
tor immediately!
1. Instructions for preventing accidents with injury to persons
Checks, setting jobs and repair work must be carried out by authorised skilled personnel only.
D When carrying out maintenance and repair work, ensure that the engine cannot be ac-
cidentally started from the bridge by unauthorised persons.
D The engine must be started and operated by authorised personnel only.
D When the engine is running, do not get too close to revolving components. Wear tight-
fitting working clothes.
D Do not touch hot engine with bare hands: risk of burning yourself.
D Keep engine vicinity, ladder and steps free of oil and grease. Accidents resulting from
slipping may have serious consequences.
D Work only with tools that are in good condition. Worn spanners slip: risk of injuries.
D Persons must not stand under an engine suspended from a crane hook. Keep lifting
gear in good order.
D Open coolant circuit only after the engine has cooled down. If opening the coolant cir-
cuit while the engine is hot is unavoidable, observe the instructions in the chapter
”Maintenance and care” in the Operator’s Manual.
D Neither retighten nor open pressurised pipelines and hoses (lube oil circuit, coolant cir-
cuit and downstream hydraulic oil circuit if fitted): risk of injuries resulting from emerging
fluids.
4
Page 6
Safety instructions
D When checking the injection nozzles, do not hold your hands in the fuel jet. Do not in-
hale fuel mist.
D When working on the electrical system, unplug earth cable from battery first and recon-
nect it last to avoid short-circuits.
D Observe the manufacturer ’s instructions for handling batteries.
Caution:
Battery acid is toxic and caustic. Battery gases are explosive.
D When carrying out welding work, observe the ”Information sheets for welders”.
5
Page 7
Safety instructions
2. Instructions for preventing damage to the engine and premature wear
D Prior to repairing the engine, clean it thoroughly. Ensure that dirt, sand or foreign matter will
not get into the engine during repair work.
D In the event of operational faults immediately identy the cause and rectify to prevent more serious dam-
age.
D Always use genuine MAN parts only. Installation of ”equally” good parts from other suppliers may cause
severe damage for which the workshop carrying out the work is responsible.
D Never operate the engine while it is dry, i.e. without lubricant or coolant.
Use a suitable label to mark engines not ready for operation.
D Only use operating materials (fuel, engine oil, antifreeze and anticorrosion agents) approved by MAN.
Ensure that everything is kept clean. Diesel fuel must be free of water.
D Do not fill up with engine oil above the max. notch on the dipstick. Do not exceed the engine’s
maximum permissible operating inclination.
Non–compliance with these instructions may cause severe engine damage.
D Control and monitoring devices (charge check, oil pressure, coolant temperature) must work faultlessly.
D Observe the instructions for operating the alternator; see chapter ”Commissioning and operation” in the
Operator’s Manual.
3. Instructions for preventing environmental damage
Engine oil and filter cartridges and elements, fuel/fuel filters
D Take old oil to an old oil disposal point only.
D Ensure without fail that oil and Diesel fuel will not get into the sewerage system or the ground.
Caution:
Danger of contaminating potable water!
D Treat filter elements and cartridges as special waste.
Coolant
D Treat undiluted anticorrosion and/or antifreeze agents as special waste.
D The regulations of the relevant local authorities are to be observed for the disposal of spent coolants.
6
Page 8
Safety instructions
4. Instructions for handling used engine oil *
Prolonged or repeated contact of any kind of engine oil with the skin causes the skin to degrease, which
may result in dryness, irritation or inflammation. Old engine oil also contains hazardous substances which
in animal experiments have caused skin cancer. Handling old engine oil does not pose any health hazard if
the basic safety and hygiene related regulations are observed.
Health and safety regulations:
D Avoid prolonged, excessive or repeated contact of old engine oil with the skin.
D Use a suitable skin protection agent or wear protective gloves.
D Clean the skin that has been in contact with engine oil.
– Wash yourself thoroughly with soap and water. A nailbrush is an effective aid.
– Special hand cleaning agents facilitate cleaning soiled hands.
– Do not use petrol, Diesel fuel, gas oil, fluxes or solvents as cleaning agents.
D After washing apply moisturising handcream to your skin.
D Change oil-soaked clothes and shoes.
D Do not put any oil-soaked cloths into pockets.
Pay meticulous attention to the proper disposal of old engine oil.
– Old oil is a water hazard –
Therefore, do not pour any old oil into the ground, the drains or the sewerage system. Any violation of this
rule is punishable.
Collect and dispose of old engine oil properly. For information concerning collection points, contact seller,
supplier or the local authorities.
∗ Based on the ”Merkblatt für den Umgang mit gebrauchtem Motorenöl”
(Notes on how to handle old engine oil).
7
Page 9
General information on the overhaul of engines
Very different factors have an influence on the life expectancy of an engine. For this reason it is not possible to give certain predetermined numbers of operating hours for basic overhauls.
Regular interim inspections and overhauls frequently carried out on large engines (e.g. on those from MAN
Augsburg) are generally not necessary on MAN Diesel engines from the MAN Nuremberg works.
In our opinion, opening an engine or carrying out a basic overhaul is not appropriate as long as the engine
achieves good compression values and the following operating values measured and recorded and have
not changed significantly since commissioning:
D Charge-air pressure
D Exhaust-gas temperature
D Coolant and lube-oil temperature
D Oil pressure and oil consumption
D Formation of smoke
The following criteria have a major influence on the life expectancy of an engine:
D Correct output setting according to the type of operation.
D Expert installation in accordance with the installation instructions.
D Inspection of the installation by authorized personnel.
D Regular maintenance as per maintenance plan
D Selection and quality of lube oil, fuel and coolant as specified in the publication
”Fuels, Lubricants, Coolants for Industrial and Marine Diesel Engines”.
8
Page 10
Trouble shooting table
Faults and possible causes
We recommend
Repair work is to be considered complete only after the damage which has occurred and the possible
causes have been eliminated. Ascertaining the causes of damage is frequently more difficult than eliminating the damage caused. For this reason we recommend you have the operational fault exactly described to
you before removal or disassembly work is commenced. Then, track down the probable causes by asking
specific questions, examining and eliminating these causes one by one with the aid of the table and yourown experience. This helps to reduce repairs to those necessary and counter complaints about ”premature” exchange of parts and expensive working and downtimes.
Remark:
The subsequent list is meant to be a memory aid so that no causes of damage will be overlooked in the
elimination of faults. The precondition for this, however, is that you are familiar with the Repair Manual for
the engine and the relevant Operating Instructions as well as the publication ”Fuels, Lubricants, Coolants
for Industrial and Marine Diesel Engines”.
9
Page 11
Trouble shooting table
FaultProbable cause
Starter does not crank
the engine or only too
slowly
Engine does not startD Fuel tank empty
Engine does not start
while cold
Engine does not run
smoothly, and stops
D Battery main switch in ”off” position
D Batteries flat
D Crankgear blocks
D Battery cable connections loose or cor-
roded
D Starter electromagnetic switch sticking
(clicks)
D Cable connection from ignition lock to
starter electromagnetic switch is loose
or interrupted
D Starter electromagnetic switch faulty
D Starter defective (carbon brushes loose,
winding faulty, short-circuit to earth)
D Engine oil viscosity not suitable
D Starter interlock relay defective
D Fuel valve shut
D Cut-off solenoid in “STOP” position
D Air in fuel system
D Fuel lines leaky, ruptured, clogged
D Fuel filter / prefilter clogged
D Suction height of fuel delivery pump
(max. 1m) exceeded
D Fuel delivery pump faulty
D Air supply/exhaust gas pipes clogged
D Unsuitable fuel
D Delivery start incorrect
D Valve clearance incorrect
D Injection nozzles worn
D Compression insufficient
D Fuel filter clogged with paraffin
D Engine oil viscosity unsuitable
see: ”Engine does not start”
D Lower idle speed set too low
D Air in fuel system
D Fuel lines leaky, ruptured, clogged
D Fuel filter clogged
D Inlet chamber pressure of injection
pump too low
D Fuel high-pressure part leaky
D Injector needle sticking
D Delivery start set incorrectly
D Injection pump set incorrectly or
defective
D Valve clearance incorrect
D Compression insufficient
Remedy
(This column is filled in only if the
”probable cause” gives no clue as
to what must be done).
D Knock on the magnet
D Check with check lamp
D See ”Fuels, Lubricants ...”
D Checking: Connect terminals
50e and 50f
D See ”Fuels, Lubricants ...”
D Remedy by Bosch Service
10
Page 12
Trouble shooting table
Fault
Engine speed variations
during operation
Engine cannot be
stopped
Performance unsatisfactory, max. boat
speed is not reached
Probable cause
D Too little fuel in fuel tank
D Air in fuel system
D Fuel lines leaky
D Fuel high-pressure part leaky
D Injection nozzles defective, worn
D Speed governor defectiveD Remedy by Bosch Service
D Cut-off linkage bent or jammed
D Cut-off solenoid without voltage
D Injection pump set incorrectly or
defective
D Engine speed adjusting lever not in
full-load position
D Incrustation of hull, shaft system and
propeller with foreign matter
D Propeller consumes too much power,
nominal speed is not reached
D Propeller consumes too much power,
engine runs in the breakaway range
D Flow of water on to the propeller insuffi-
cient
D Fuel temperature too high
D Unsuitable, contaminated fuel
D Fuel filter clogged
D Air in fuel system
D Lack of fuel
D Temperature in engine room too high,
combustion air and fuel too hot
D Supply of combustion air insufficient,
intake vacuum too high
D Charge-air pipes leaky
D Intercooler contaminated
D Turbocharger contaminated or defective
D Compression insufficient
D Injection pump and / or governor
defective
Remedy
(This column is filled in only if the
”probable cause” gives no clue as
to what must be done).
D Remedy by Bosch Service
D Route the ship-mounted fuel
lines well apart from the hot engine parts.
D See ”Fuels, Lubricants ...”
D Check fuel lines and delivery
pump
D Check inward and outward ven-
tilation
D Check intake air supply to air
filters
D Remedy by Bosch Service
11
Page 13
Trouble shooting table
Fault
Coolant temperature
too high, coolant loss
Probable cause
D Coolant level too low
D Air in coolant circuit
D Proportion of anti-freeze / anticorrosion
agent too high
D Raw water supply clogged
D Raw water supply insufficient
D Cap with working valves on expansion
tank defective, leaky
D Thermostat in closed position blocked
D Heat exchanger heavily contaminated,
pipe group coated with foreign matter
D V-belt for water pump drive not correctly
tensioned (slipping)
D Water pump leaky, defective (bearing
damage)
D Coolant circuit clogged by foreign matter
D Thermostat jammed in ”shut” position
Remedy
(This column is filled in only if the
”probable cause” gives no clue as
to what must be done).
D See ”Fuels, Lubricants ...”
D Check inlet orifice
D Impeller worn. Measure delivery
of raw water pump and vacuum
at inlet
Lube oil pressure
varies/too low
Lub oil pressure too
high
Lube oil consumption
too high
D Oil level in oil pan too low
D Oil level in oil pan too high
D Max. inclination exceeded
D Engine temperature too high
D Oil viscosity unsuitable (viscosity too
low)
D Oil in oil pan too thin (mixed with con-
densation or fuel)
D Heavy bearing wear
D Oil pump gears heavily worn
D Safety valve in oil circuit defective (does
not shut, spring fatigued or broken)
D Oil pressure gauge defective
D Engine cold
D Oil viscosity unsuitable (viscosity too
high)
D Safety valve in oil circuit defective (does
not open)
D Oil pipes/oil galleries clogged
D Oil pressure gauge defective
D Leaks in the lube oil circuit, particularly
at the turbocharger and oil cooler
D Oil level in oil pan too high
D Lube oil quality does not satisfy regula-
tions
D Turbocharger wear
D Piston rings heavily worn
D Valve guides heavily worn
D Dipstick marked correctly?
See Operator’s Manual
D See ”Fuels, Lubricants ...”
D See ”Fuels, Lubricants ...”
D See ”Fuels, Lubricants ...”
D Measure play of rotor
12
Page 14
Trouble shooting table
Fault
Fuel consumption too
high
Black smokeD Lack of combustion air, intake vacuum
Blue smokeD Engine coolant/intake air still too cold
White smokeD Engine coolant/intake air still too cold
Probable cause
D Constant full-load operation
D Speed resistance owing to incrustation
of hull, shaft system and propeller with
foreign matter
D Poor efficiency of the drive system
D Fuel quality does not satisfy regulations
D Fuel leaks in the system
D High power requirements by additional
units (hydraulic pumps, compressors
etc)
D Delivery start set incorrectly
D Injection pump set incorrectly or defec-
tive
D Valve clearance incorrect
D Intake vacuum / exhaust backpressure
too high
D Injection nozzles worn
too high
D Engine speed reduction owing to the
propeller’s taking up too much power
D Sudden full load after long low load or
idling periods
D Air filter contaminated
D Leaks in air pipes downst r eam of com-
pressor
D Diaphragm in wastegate leaky
D Intercooler leaky, defective
D Unsuitable fuel
D Turbocharger defect iv e
D Delivery start set incorrectly
D Injection nozzles defective, coked
D Injection pump set incorrectly or
defective
D Exhaust backpressure too high
D Mainly low-load operation
D Piston rings worn or broken
D Valve guides worn
D Crankcase breather clogged (overpres-
sure in crankcase)
D Water evaporates in exhaust gas pipe
during raw water injection
D Delivery start set incorrectly
D Cylinder head gasket leaky/burned
through
D Fuel quality does not satisfy regulations
D Injection nozzles defective
D Injection pump set incorrectly or
defective
Remedy
(This column is filled in only if the
”probable cause” gives no clue as
to what must be done).
D Adjust propeller
D See ”Fuels, Lubricants ...”
D Remedy by Bosch Service
D Check intake air supply to air fil-
ters (engine room ventilation)
D See ”Fuels, Lubricants ...”
D Remedy by Bosch Service
D See ”Fuels, Lubricants ...”
D Remedy by Bosch Service
13
Page 15
Trouble shooting table
Fault
Vibrations, droning
noise, structure-borne
sound
Engine knocksD Engine in cold running phase
Engine is too loudD Intake or exhaust gas pipe leaky
Probable cause
D Drive system not or inaccurately aligned
D Unsuitable clutch
D Unsuitable engine/gearbox mounts
D Elastic mounts unequally loaded (height
adjustment)
D Propeller shaft unbalanced
D Delivery start set incorrectly
D Injector needle sticking
D High load at low speed
D Fuel is slow to ignite
D Compression too low
D Valve clearance too large
D V-belt slipping
D Timing gears worn, backlash of teeth
too large
Remedy
(This column is filled in only if the
”probable cause” gives no clue as
to what must be done).
14
Page 16
Trouble shooting table
Fault
Starter
D Pinion does not turn
or turns too slowly
D Pinion does not
engage
D Pinion engages but
stops
D Pinion continues to
run after starter
switch has been
released
Probable cause
D Battery insufficiently charged
D Terminals loose or oxidised, poor earth
connection
D Terminals or carbon brushes have short-
circuit to earth
D Carbon brushes are stuck or have poor
contact
D Pinion or starter gear ring heavily con-
taminated or damaged
D Electromagnetic switch defective
D One-way clutch slips
D Starter switch defective
D Electromagnetic switch defective
Remedy
(This column is filled in only if the
”probable cause” gives no clue as
to what must be done).
D Pinion does not
disengage after
successful start
Alternator
D Alternator check
lamp does not come
on when engine is
stationary and starter
switch is switched on
D Alternator check
lamp brightly iluminated when engine is
running
D Alternator check
lamp brightly iluminated when engine is
stationary, dimmer or
glowing when engine
is running
D Battery does not
charge up
D Starter defective
D Check lamp burnt out
D Battery discharged
D Terminal clamps loose or oxidised
D Regulator defective
D Short-circuit in alternator
D Carbon brushes worn
D Cable D+ has short-circuit to earth
D Regulator defective
D Rectifier damaged, slip rings dirty
D V-belt slipping or cracked
D Resistance in cable between alternator
and battery is too high, terminal clamps
oxidised
D Regulator defective
D Alternator defective
D Cable between alternator and battery
interrupted
D Battery defective
D Alternator defective
D V-belt slipping
D Switch off engine immediately
D Change regulator
D Repair in specialist workshop
D Change regulator
D Repair in specialist workshop
D Change regulator
D Repair in specialist workshop
integrated thermostat housing10 Over/underpressure valve
2 Water pump impeller11 Coolant filler neck
3 Engine oil cooler12 Heating lead and return line
4 Crankcase13 Measuring point for cooling water temperature
5 Exhaust manifold, liquid-cooled14 Bleed screw on turbocharger
6 Turbocharger, liquid-cooled15 Raw water pump
7 Thermostat16 Intercooler
8 Engine coolant/raw water heat exchanger
22
Page 24
Checking and adjusting start of fuel delivery
Checking start of delivery
Fig. 1
For the purpose of checking the start-of-delivery
setting, an ”OT” (= TDC) mark and a scale (2) from
10 ... 50_ before TDC are engraved on a disc fitted
in front of the torsional vibration damper. The scale
marks are read against a pointer (1) fitted to the
crankcase.
Fig. 2
To turn the engine over manually during the setting
work, a plate with a central hexagon bolt is located
on the front side of the crankshaft pulley.
1
2
1
2590
Figs. 3 and 4
There is another scale engraved on the flywheel
which can be read through an inspection hole in
the flywheel housing but access may be difficult.
The scale should be used for readjusting the
pointer after the vibration damper has been removed or replaced.
Before the vibration damper with the scale disc is
installed, the engine should be positioned at ”OT”
(= TDC) by means of the scale on the flywheel.
The pointer should then be aligned such that its
measuring edge exactly coincides with the ”OT”
mark on the scale disc.
2
3
3390
2591
23
4
2452
Page 25
Checking and adjusting start of fuel delivery
Fig. 5
Remove screw plug (1) on governor housing.
If fitted, take out blocking pin (2).
If the pointer is exactly in the centre of the
inspection hole, the pump plunger for cylinder no.
1 is at start of delivery. However, it is possible to
determine exactly whether or not the pump is at
start of delivery only by means of the following
special tools:
12
a. Light signal transmitter
Fig. 6
Push light signal transmitter into socket in gover-
nor housing. Ensure that the lug (3) fits in the
groove (4). Tighten the knurled nut (5) by hand.
Connect up power supply of light signal transmitter
(red terminal = +). Turn engine by hand so that
piston in cylinder no. 1 in the compression stroke
comes close to the start of delivery.
Lamp (A) comes on shortly before start of delivery
is reached.
Fig. 7
Slowly turn the engine further until lamp (B) comes
on too. The injection pump is now at start of
delivery.
The light signal transmitter KDEP 1600 (Fig.) is
connected to the starter battery for the power supply.
5
6
2310
4
3
5
6
2309
Note:
If only lamp (B) comes on during this test,
the engine has been turned past the start of
delivery. In this case turn the engine back
and repeat the procedure.
24
7
2308
Page 26
Checking and adjusting start of fuel delivery
Fig. 8
The light signal transmitter KDEP 1601 (Fig.) is
energized by its own power supply.
8
3393
b. Sleeve
Fig. 9
If a light signal transmitter is not available, good
measurement results can also be achieved with a
plug-in sleeve.
The sleeve is to be made of aluminium or steel
Set engine to start of delivery as described above.
Insert the sleeve into the governor housing up to
the stop.
The start of delivery is set exactly when the pointer
for start of delivery is in the centre of the 3 mm
bore in the sleeve.
9
2259
29
ø15
ø12
ø9
13
30
15
ø3
ø11
25
Page 27
Checking and adjusting start of fuel delivery
Adjusting start of delivery
If the check according to method a) or b) should
prove that the delivery start is not correct, proceed
as follows:
Fig. 10
Remove timing case cover (13mm).
Fig. 11
Loosen all bolts fastening the drive gear to the in-
jection pump hub (13mm). For this, two complete
turns of the engine are necessary.
10
3394
Fig. 12
Turn engine to specified angle for delivery start.
Remove cylinder head cover from cylinder no. 6
(flywheel end). When the values of this cylinder
are in crossover, the piston in cylinder no. 1 is at
ignition TDC.
Remove screw plug from governor housing (see
Fig. 5). The delivery start pointer must be visible in
the centre of the inspection hole.
Turn the injection pump camshaft on the drive
flange to the left or right until the conditions mentioned under a) or b) apply.
Tighten bolts for fastening drive gear to drive
flange consecutively to 5 Nm and then to 30 Nm.
Check delivery start once again.
Close governor housing.
11
12
2325
3395
26
Page 28
Removing and installing injection pump
Removing injection pump
Fig. 1
Close cut–off valve from fuel tank to engine.
Remove all fuel and air (LDA) connections from
the injection pump and detach the injection lines.
Caution:
The lines contain fuel.
Catch emerging fuel in a container.
Fig. 2
Remove bracket from the injection pump (19 mm).
1
3396
Fig. 3
Remove the mounting bolts from the injection
pump flange (17 mm).
Note:
For reasons of space the mounting bolt between the injection pump and the crankcase
(hexagon M10 bolt with reduced head 13
mm) can be reached only with a 3/8” socket
and an extension.
Fig. 4
Take off injection pump.
Note:
Ensure meticulous cleanliness when working
on the injection pump.
Prevent dirt and foreign matter from penetrating into opened line connections.
2
3
3397
3398
27
4
3399
Page 29
Removing and installing injection pump
Installing injection pump
Fig. 5
Important:
If the injection pump is blocked the camshaft
must on no account be loaded or turned because parts of the blocking pin may break off
and fall into the governor. Non-compliance
with this may result in severe damage to
the injection pump.
Remove screw plug (1) from governor housing.
Take out blocking pin (2) if fitted.
Fig. 6
Turn engine to angle for delivery start.
Take cylinder head cover off cylinder no. 6 (flywheel end). When the cylinders are in crossover,
the piston of cylinder no. 1 is at TDC at the end of
the compression stroke.
12
2310
5
Fig. 7
Check whether the injection pump is in delivery
start position. To do this, remove the screw plug
from the governor housing (see Fig. 5). The delivery start pointer must be visible in the centre of the
inspection hole.
Remove the mounting bolts from the injection
pump drive gear (13 mm) so that it can be turned
in the slots.
Hold injection pump camshaft in place while turning the gear (41 mm).
Fit new O-ring (slightly coated with oil) to injection
pump flange.
6
7
3390
3400
28
Page 30
Removing and installing injection pump
Fig. 8
Insert the injection pump and tighten the mounting
bolts.
Fig. 9
Apply an initial torque of 5 Nm to all mounting bolts
on the gear through the inspection hole. Two complete engine turns are necessary for this operation.
Now tighten all mounting bolts to 30 Nm.
Check delivery start, if necessary readjusting it
(see page 23).
Screw in screw plug on the governor housing and
fit cover to timing case.
8
3401
9
3395
29
Page 31
Removing and installing fuel injectors
Removing fuel injectors
Fig. 1
Remove leakage fuel return lines.
Fig. 2
Remove injection lines.
1
3402
Fig. 3
Remove pressure screw from fuel injector using a
pin spanner.
Fig. 4
Bolt inertia puller on to fuel injector and knock out
the injector.
2
3
3403
3378
30
4
3404
Page 32
Removing and installing fuel injectors
Fig. 5
Take out injector and injector seal.
Check and repair injector.
Installing fuel injectors
Fig. 6
Apply ”Never Seeze” to contact areas of injector.
Screw in injector with new seal.
5
3405
Fig. 7
Screw in injector with new seal. Screw on union
nut and tighten to specified torque.
Connect up injection lines and leakage fuel return
lines.
6
7
3406
3383
31
Page 33
Checking and repairing fuel injectors
Checking fuel injectors
Fig. 1
The nozzle tester (manual test stand) is used to
check the
– opening pressure
– tightness
– spray pattern of the injection nozzle.
Use pure testing oil or pure Diesel fuel for the test.
Prior to testing, clean nozzle and check it for wear.
Fig. 2
Check injector assembly.
Connect the nozzle’s supply connection to the test
unit’s pressure line.
Caution:
The high opening pressure may lead
to severe injuries. Do not place hands
under the jet. Wear safety goggles.
1. Checking opening pressure:
Switch on the pressure gauge and slowly press
lever downwards until the nozzle emits a jet with a
light grating noise.
Read opening pressure from the pressure gauge.
In the event of a pressure deviation insert a different shim. If the pressure is too low, insert thicker
shims, if it is too high, insert thinner shims (7). The
initial tension of the compression spring (6) decreases if a high number of operating hours has
been clocked up. Consequently, the injection pressure drops slightly. When repairing injection
nozzles, always set the opening pressure to the
upper limit (+ 8 bar).
1
2
2581
2644
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
Note:
Shims are available in 0.02 mm steps from
1.0 mm to 1.98 mm.
2. Checking tightness:
Actuate hand lever. At a pressure of 20 bar below
the opening pressure set not a single drop must
fall from the nozzle opening within 10 sec.
3. Checking jet:
Switch off pressure gauge and carry out some
swift strokes. The nozzle must emit an audible
grating noise and/or a well-atomised jet.
Nozzles that satisfy these three requirements can
be reused.
Fig. 3
Insert injector assembly (the inlet orifice facing
downwards) into the clamping device and hold in a
vice. Remove union nut and take out nozzle body,
intermediate washer, pressure pin, compression
spring and shim. Take pressure pipe neck out of
holder.
Repairing fuel injectors
Fig. 4
Clean interior of injection body (1) with a small
wooden stick and petrol or Diesel fuel.
Clean nozzle needle (2) with a clean cloth.
Note:
To prevent corrosion, do not touch lapped
faces of nozzle needle with the fingers. The
needle and injection nozzle are matched to
each other and must not be interchanged.
Check cleaned parts for wear and damage, replacing them if necessary. De-grease new parts.
Assembling fuel injectors
Fig. 5
Insert pressure pipe neck into clamping device.
Insert shim and compression spring.
3
4
2645
1
2
2646
Fig. 6
Insert pressure pin and intermediate washer.
33
5
6
2654
2655
Page 35
Checking and repairing fuel injectors
Fig. 7
Dip nozzle body and nozzle needle separately into
filtered Diesel fuel and check their gliding quality.
When pulled out of the nozzle body by up to a third
of its length the nozzle needle must sink back to its
seat under its own weight when released. Place
injection nozzle on top, ensuring that the
associated pins are correctly fitted.
Fig. 8
Screw on union nut, tightening it to the specified
torque.
Check injector on the manual test stand.
7
2656
Ensure that the edge-type filter is correctly
seated in the injector body.
Fig. 9
A dislocated sieve bar filter throttles and prolongs
the injection and consequently causes poor performance, high consumption and heavy smoke
formation in conjunction with heavy engine vibrations.
For this reason measure the rim offset of the sieve
bar filter in the nozzle inlet.
The sieve bar filter must not be pressed into the
nozzle holder farther than approx 5 mm.
In the event of larger rim offsets, the nozzle holder
is to be replaced.
8
9
2657
2207
1
34
Page 36
Cleaning fuel prefilter
Fig. 1
Shut cut-off valve from fuel tank to engine.
Remove round nut and take off filter housing with
sieve.
Use a bowl to catch fuel that may emerge.
Fig. 2
Wash out filter housing and gauze filter in clean
Diesel fuel and blow them out with compressed air.
Reassemble fuel prefilter using new seal.
1
3407
Fig. 3
Actuate plunger of hand priming pump until the
overflow valve of the injection pump opens audibly.
Check fuel pre-filter for leaks while engine is run-
ning.
2
3
3408
3409
35
Page 37
Changing fuel filter cartridges
Fig. 1
1 Disposable filter
2 Screw plug
3 Bleed screw
Fig. 2
Use tape wrench to loosen filter cartridge and re-
move cartridge by hand. Fit a new seal.
Lightly coat seal on the filter cartridge with fuel.
Screw on filter cartridge and firmly tighten it by
hand.
1
3
2
3
1
3590
Bleeding fuel system
Fig. 3
Open bleed screws at fuel filter.
Fig. 4
Actuate hand priming pump until bubble-free fuel
emerges.
Close bleed screws.
Check system for leaks.
2
3
3410
3411
36
4
3409
Page 38
Draining and filling with coolant
Draining coolant
Drain coolant as follows when the engine is cold:
Caution:
Risk of scalding if hot coolant is
drained! Drain coolant into a container
and dispose of it in accordance with
local regulations
Fig. 1
Remove cap (arrow) from filler neck on the coolant
expansion tank. Open drain plugs.
Fig. 2
Open drain plug in the oil cooler housing.
Use a container to catch coolant that may emerge.
Fig. 3
Further drain plugs for draining the coolant are lo-
cated on the exhaust-gas collector pipe (picture)
and on the intercooler.
1
2
3412
3413
37
3
3414
Page 39
Draining and filling with coolant
Filling up with coolant
Fig. 4
The engine’s cooling system is to be filled up with
a mixture of potable tap water and antifreeze agent
on ethylene glycol basis or anticorrosion agent.
See publication ”Fuels, Lubricants, Coolants for
Industrial and Marine Diesel Engines”.
Coolant must be added at the filler neck only.
Do not put cold coolant into an engine which is
warm from operation.
Ensure that the ratio of water to anti-freeze is correct.
Figs. 5 and 6
D Remove cap (large cap)
D Set heating (if fitted) to full output, open all
shut-off valves, open bleeders (if fitted)
4
2707
D Unscrew bleed screw on liquid-cooled turbo-
charger
D Slowly fill up with coolant via filler neck on ex-
pansion tank until fluid level has reached the
lower edge of the filler neck
D Screw in bleeder screws again and refit cap
D Let engine run at a speed of 2,000 rpm for
approx. 5 minutes
D Switch off engine, carefully turn cap (1) with
safety valve to first detent –let off pressure–
then carefully take off cap
5
6
3415
2598
38
Page 40
Removing and installing thermostat
Fig. 1
D Drain coolant, see page 37
D Remove expansion tank, see page 45
Once the expansion tank has been removed the
thermostats in the water pump housing are visible.
Fig. 2
Take out thermostat.
Check the function of the thermostat as follows.
D Hang thermostat in a pot filled with water
D Heat water
D Use suitable thermometer to ascertain the
opening start and compare it with the set–point
value given in ”Engineering S Data S Setting val-
ues”.
D Measure opening stroke if necessary.
Exchange defective thermostats.
(”TOP”) with new O-ring seal (1) and new seal (2).
2
3
3429
2
1
39
Page 41
Removing and installing water pump
D Take off V-belt, see page 118
D Drain coolant, see page 37
D Detach expansion tank, see page 45
D Take out thermostats, see page 39
Note:
If the water pump is to be disassembled at a
later date, remove V-belt pulley before the
disassembly and pull off water pump hub
with a stable three-arm puller.
Fig. 1
Remove the mounting bolts from the cooling-water
elbow (13 mm).
Fig. 2
Remove mounting bolts from water pump (13 mm)
and take off water pump.
Fig. 3
Clean the sealing faces on water pump and engine
housing using a scraper and fine abrasive paper.
Stick the new seal for the water-pump housing to
the crankcase using grease. Fit water pump.
1
2
3430
3431
Use new seals for the cooling-water elbow.
3
3432
40
Page 42
Repairing water pump
Disassembling water pump
The following special tools are required for disassembling and assembling the water pump:
D Press
D Improvised tools, see page 134.
Fig. 1
Remove V-belt pulley.
Pull off water pump hub with a stable three-arm
puller.
Fig. 2
Unclip the circlip from the water-pump housing.
1
3433
Fig. 3
Press impeller off the shaft, using a suitable man-
drel. For this purpose align water–pump housing
horizontally on a stable support.
The picture shows an assembly device for this. If
such a device is not available, use a support ring
(special tool, see page 134).
Use a suitable mandrel to press the water–pump
shaft together with bearing out of the housing.
Shaft and bearing are encapsulated and exchanged together only.
Fig. 4
Water pump disassembled
1 Hub
2 Circlip
3 Pump bearing
4 Housing
5 Axial face seal
6 Impeller
2
3
3434
3583
12
6
4
5
3
41
3380
4
Page 43
Repairing water pump
Assembling water pump
Fig. 5
Press in water pump bearing.
Use hollow mandrel to press on the outer bearing
ring and not on the bearing shaft.
For this purpose align water-pump housing horizontally on a stable support.
Fig. 6
Refit circlip.
5
3437
Fig. 7
Press in new mechanical seal with press-fitting
sleeve (special tool see page 127, item 11) until it
stops.
Observe installation note for seal on page 44.
Note:
The seal can be exchanged even without
removing the water pump shaft.
6
7
3435
3438
42
Page 44
Repairing water pump
Fig. 8
Press impeller on to bearing shaft.
For this purpose place water-pump bearing shaft
on a stable support.
The correct gap dimension (see ”Engineering S
Data S Setting values”) is achieved if the outer face
of the impeller is flush with the front face of the
bearing shaft.
Check the gap dimension with the feeler gauge.
The impeller must be easy to turn and must not
contact the water-pump housing.
Fig. 9
Turn pump housing over and align it horizontally on
a suitable support. Press hub on to the bearing
shaft until flush.
For this purpose place bearing shaft together with
the flush-fitting impeller on a stable support.
8
3439
9
3586
43
Page 45
Repairing water pump
Installation note for mechanical seal:
Install mechanical seal while ”wet”, i.e. to install it, coat holding sleeve (1) and water pump shaft (2) with a
mixture of either 50 % water and 50 % cleaning spirit or 35 % to 50 % antifreeze agent as per MAN 324
and water.
Other lubricants must not be used.
Since the seal on collar (4) is coated with sealing paint, no sealing agent must be applied if the location
bore in the water pump housing is in faultless condition. If the bore shows even the slightest scores or other
minor damage, Dirko-Transparent, part no. 04.10394.9229 is to be applied to the collar.
Place seal with synthetic transport cap on shaft (2) and use installation tool to press it in until the tool contacts the housing. Remove synthetic cap.
1542
3
2466
Note: Examinations have shown that most cases of damage to the water pump can be attributed to unsuitable coolants. Only the antcorrosion and antifreeze agents expressly approved by MAN Nutzfahrzeuge AG
as per MAN norm 324 (see brochure ”Fuels, Lubricants, Coolants for Industrial and Marine Diesel Engines”) guarantee faultless operation.
In the event of repairs exchange water pump only if it has been found to be leaky.
For design-related reasons small quantities of coolant may permeate through the mechanical seal on the
water pump. This permeating coolant leaves a trace below the drain bore on the water pump. The water
pump need not be exchanged because of this trace of permeating coolant.
For this reason before exchanging or repairing a water pump ascertain
D whether the coolant circuit shows visible and recurrent loss of water; if so
D whether the loss of water is caused by coolant emerging from the expansion tank (e.g. overfilled) or by
other leaks on hoses, etc.
Water pumps must be exchanged only if water drips visibly while the engine is in operation or after the en-
gine has been switched off.
44
Page 46
Removing and attaching expansion tank
D Drain coolant, see page 37
Fig. 1
Remove hollow bolt from bleeder line.
Remove coolant level sensor.
Figs. 2 and 3
Remove the mounting bolts from the brackets of
the expansion tank (13 mm and 19 mm).
1
3424
Fig. 4
Remove nut (13 mm) from the front side of the ex-
pansion tank.
Take off the expansion tank.
The expansion tank is attached in reverse sequence.
2
3
3425
3426
45
4
3427
Page 47
Removing and installing heat exchanger
D Drain coolant, see page 37
Fig. 1
Remove mounting bolts from the coolant elbow
between expansion tank and raw-water heat exchanger (13 mm, 17 mm).
Figs. 2 and 3
The raw-water connecting pipe from the intercooler
is fastened to the heat exchanger by means of a
plug connection. To detach it, remove pressure
flange (10 mm).
Remove pipe clamps from the raw–water pipe and
pull out pipe plug connection.
Remove mounting bolts from the heat exchanger
brackets (13 mm).
Take off heat exchanger.
The heat exchanger is attached in reverse sequence.
When assembling, fit new O-rings at the plug connection.
1
2
3440
3441
46
3
3442
Page 48
Removing and installing heat-exchanger pipe set
D Remove raw-water heat exchanger,
see page 46
Fig. 1
Match-mark the position of the covers relative to
the heat-exchanger housing (arrow) and remove
both covers (13 mm).
Fig. 2
Take off cover.
At the flywheel end of the heat exchanger the collar of the pipe cluster (arrow) is visible.
1
3443
Fig. 3
Carefully knock out pipe cluster from the opposite
end using a block of wood.
Fig. 4
Pull out pipe cluster.
The pipe cluster is installed in reverse sequence.
When installing the pipe cluster, use new O-rings
and check the heat exchanger for leaks.
2
3
3444
3445
47
4
3446
Page 49
Cleaning heat exchanger pipe set
Internal cleaning of the pipe set in raw water heat exchangers
Deposits may form on the sea–water side of the pipe cluster in the heat exchanger, impairing the heat transition to such an extent that the coolant heat can no longer be sufficiently conducted away. This is bound to
cause an increase in the coolant temperature.
In the event of an increase in coolant temperature, check all other components of the cooling system first.
D Raw-water filter contaminated?
D Raw-water inlet clogged up?
D Flow rate of raw water sufficient? Impeller of raw-water pump worn?
If all components of the cooling system are in order, but the coolant temperature remains nevertheless
high, cleaning the pipe cluster may eliminate the fault.
Proceed as follows:
D Lay or stand removed pipe set in a suitable container made of synthetic material such as PE, PP, PVC,
GRP etc.
D Fill container with undiluted genuine pickling liquid at room temperature (engine pickling fluid RB-06)
until the pipe set is completely submerged.
D Allow pickling fluid to soak in for approx. 10 hours. If this period of time is not sufficient, allow
another 5 hours
D The pickling period can be shortened by heating up the pickling fluid up to a maximum of 50_C (120_F)
and by moving the set of pipes from time to time.
D After the pickling the pipe set is to be intensively rinsed with tap water and again installed in the
heat exchanger.
D Use new seals (O-ring seals) for the caps.
D Install pipe set and check heat exchanger for leaks.
Waste water conditioning
With the aid of soda lye the drained and used cleaning and pickling fluid is conditioned to a pH value of 7.5
to 8.5. After the sediments have settled the clear fluid above can be drained into the sewerage system. The
sludge is to be taken to a dump for special waste.
48
Page 50
Raw water pump
Removing and installing raw-water
pump
Note:
The raw–water pump shown in these pictures was used up to engine
no. ... 8120 999 ... . From engine
no. ... 8121 001 ... onwards double pumps
have been in use for improved cooling.
However, the assembly steps are the same
in principle.
Fig. 1
Remove the mounting bolts from the suction and
compression necks (13 mm).
Fig. 2
Remove the nuts from the raw–water pump flange
(17 mm).
Fig. 3
Take off raw-water pump.
The raw-water pump is installed in reverse sequence. Exchange the seal between the raw-water
pump and the necks.
1
2
3418
3419
49
3
3420
Page 51
Raw water pump
Changing impeller
Fig. 1
Remove cover (8 mm).
Fig. 2
The impeller can be removed only together with
the cam.
Note:
The impeller will be destroyed if it is forcibly
pulled out without the cam.
1
3421
To do this, remove the cap screw in the pump
housing between the suction and the compression
neck using a screwdriver.
Fig. 3
Pull out impeller together with the cam using a pair
of pliers.
Exchange worn or damaged impeller together with
the wearing parts (repair kit) (observe the direction
of rotation).
Coat new impeller slightly with Vaseline before assembling it.
When assembling, secure cap screw with
Loctite 648.
Fit cover with new seal.
Operating the impeller while it is dry entails irrepa-
rable damage. Fill pump with water before commissioning it and check it for leaks.
2
3
3422
3423
50
Page 52
Changing oil filter
Fig. 1
Open oil drain plug on oil filter can (19 mm) and
use container to catch oil that may emerge. Refit
oil drain plug with new seal.
Fig. 2
Remove mounting bolt of filter bowl (17 mm).
1
3447
Fig. 3
Take off filter bowl and clean it internally.
Insert new filter element and fit filter bowl with new
seals.
Observe tightening torque for mounting bolt (see
“Engineering S Data S Setting values”).
Note:
The pictures show the standard oil filter.
Classifiable engines have a filter with a
changeover feature.
However, the oil filter cartridges are changed
analogously.
2
3
3448
3449
51
Page 53
Removing and installing oil cooler
D Drain engine oil
D Drain coolant, see page 37.
D Remove oil filter, see page 51.
Fig. 1
Remove hose clamp on the coolant outlet pipe
leading from the oil cooler housing.
Remove the mounting bolts from the oil cooler
housing (17 mm).
Note:
Do not remove the four 13 mm mounting
bolts. They keep the oil cooler in place.
Fig. 2
Take off oil cooler housing together with oil cooler.
Remove oil cooler from housing (13 mm).
1
3450
Fig. 3
Check oil cooler for damage, changing it if neces-
sary. Fit oil cooler with new gaskets.
Fit oil filter with new gasket. Fill up with engine oil
and coolant.
2
3
3451
3452
52
Page 54
Removing and installing oil pump
Removing oil pump
D Drain engine oil.
Fig. 1
Remove oil pan (13 mm).
Note:
Various oil pan variants are possible. The
picture shows a deep oil pan for inclinations
of up to 30_.
Figs. 2 and 3
Remove oil suction pipe (13 mm).
Note:
Depending on the oil pan variants, various
versions are possible.
The pictures show a tandem oil pump with
pipes. The work is fundamentally the same
for all versions.
1
3453
Measure backlash between oil pump drive gear
and crankshaft gear and compare value with the
nominal value.
Replace worn gears.
Fig. 4
Remove pressure relief valves (13 mm).
The pressure relief valves are encapsulated.
Opening pressures see ”Engineering S Data S Set-
ting values”.
2
3
3454
3455
53
4
3456
Page 55
Removing and installing oil pump
Fig. 5
Remove oil pump.
Note:
Depending on the engine model and oil pan
variant, various oil pump versions are
possible.
In engines with tandem pumps, first remove the
2nd pump À with intermediate shaft Á, connection
sleeves  and circlips Ã.
Disassembling and assembling oil
pump
5
2703
3
4
2
4
3
1
Fig. 6
Clamp oil pump in a vice (fitted with soft jaws). Re-
move oil pump cover (13 mm).
Fig. 7
Pull driven oil pump gears out of the housing.
Check gears and pump housing for wear
(see ”Engineering S Data S Setting values”).
6
3669
54
7
3458
Page 56
Removing and installing oil pump
Fig. 8
Remove oil pump drive gear. To do this, lay pump
on suitable support and press off drive gear using
a mandrel.
Place drive gear on the shaft and press it into
place. Thereby support opposite shaft end. Pressing force see ”Engineering S Data S Setting values”.
Checking axial play of the pump gears
Fig. 9
Position dial gauge and push shaft up to the stop
in one direction and set dial gauge to - 0 -. Push
shaft in opposite direction and read the movement
from the dial gauge.
8
3459
9
3582
55
Page 57
Removing and installing oil pump
Installing oil pump
Fig. 10
Before installing, check whether the oil pump(s)
run(s) smoothly and then fit it/them free of tension
(13 mm).
Figs. 11 and 12
Fit the oil intake lines À with seals and the oil re-
turn lines Á without seals so that they are free of
tension (13 mm). Screw on pressure–relief valve
without seal (13 mm).
Before mounting the oil pan, turn over the engine
to check whether the crankgear and the oil pumps
run unimpeded and smoothly.
Stick new oil-pan gasket on to oil pan using grease
and then bolt oil pan into place.
10
3588
2
1
11
12
3460
3461
56
Page 58
Oil spray nozzle
Removing oil spray nozzle
D Drain engine oil
D Remove oil pan, see page 53
Fig. 1
Remove oil spray nozzle valve (arrow) and take
out oil spray nozzle.
Fig. 2
1 Oil spray nozzle valve
2 Oil spray nozzle
Note:
The oil spray nozzles are provided with two
balls. When the oil spray nozzles are tightened at the factory the balls are pressed into
the crankcase where they make impressions
used as marker points for the installation of
oil spray nozzles in the event of repair work.
1
3462
2
Checking oil spray nozzle valve
Fig. 3
Use a piece of wire to check whether the valve
piston is easy to move.
For opening pressures, see ”Engineering S Data S
Setting values”.
Installing oil spray nozzle
Fig. 4
2
3
1
3463
3673
Screw in the oil spray nozzle together with the oil
spray nozzle valve.
The balls of the oil spray nozzle must be located in
the impressions provided for this purpose in the
crankcase. This will ensure that the oil spray
nozzle will be installed in the correct position.
Turn the engine over. Neither the crankgear nor
the pistons must collide with the oil spray nozzle.
Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque.
57
4
3465
Page 59
Removing and installing vibration damper,
changing front crankshaft seal
Removing vibration damper
D Turn engine to TDC to facilitate the installation
of the scale disc during the assembly.
D Block the crankgear.
D Release the tension and take off the V-belt(s).
Figs. 1 and 2
Remove the barring device (13 mm) and the deliv-
ery start pointer (17 mm).
1
3475
Fig. 3
Loosen mounting bolts on vibration damper
(24 mm).
Note:
Owing to the high tightening torque a reinforced socket in conjunction with a 1/2” tool
is required. Prior to removal mark the position of the vibration damper relative to the
crankshaft. This will ensure that in the subsequent reassembly the graduated disc is in
correct position.
Fig. 4
Remove vibration damper carefully.
Caution:
The vibration damper is susceptible to
shocks.
2
3
3476
3477
58
4
3478
Page 60
Removing and installing vibration damper,
changing front crankshaft seal
Changing front crankshaft seal
Fig. 5
Remove cover (13 mm).
Replace front crankshaft seal only as a complete
unit, i.e. race and radial shaft seal.
Fig. 6
To remove the race, a puller (special tool, see
page 127, item 13) is necessary.
5
3479
Fig. 7
Pull off race.
Fig. 8
Special tools are required for installing the race
(see page 127, item 15).
Clean inner side of race and crankshaft stub. Coat
crankshaft stub with sealing agent ”Antipor 46”.
D Push race Æ and pressing sleeve Ç onto
adapter Â.
D Tighten spindle À in adapter  with nut Ã.
D Bolt adapter  to crankshaft.
6
7
2718
3480
59
3091
8
Page 61
Removing and installing vibration damper,
changing front crankshaft seal
Fig. 9
The adapter must contact the crankshaft free of
play so that the correct pressing depth for the race
is ensured.
Pull in race using collar nut and pressing plate È
and É in Fig. 8) until pressing sleeve Ç stops on
the adapter.
Fig. 10
As spare parts the cover and shaft seal are deliv-
ered only as a complete assembly in order to ensure correct installation.
To ensure that the shaft seal remains suitable for
installation, it must remain on the transport and
assembly sleeve until installed.
9
3481
Fig. 11
Fit cover with new seal (13mm).
10
11
3019
3436
60
Page 62
Removing and installing vibration damper,
changing front crankshaft seal
Installing vibration damper
Fig. 12
Place vibration damper on two guide pins (M16 x
1.5). Ensure that the position of the graduated disc
relative to the crankshaft is correct.
Fig. 13
Tighten mounting bolts (24 mm) to specified
torque.
12
3584
Note:
Owing to the high tightening torque a reinforced socket in conjunction with a 1/2” tool
is required.
Fig. 14
Screw on delivery start indicator and
V-belt pulleys.
Fit and tension V-belts (see page 118).
13
14
3587
3484
Fig. 15
After the installation, check whether the scale of
degrees on the inspection hole cover of the flywheel housing and on the vibration damper indicate the same values.
If necessary readjust delivery start indicator.
15
61
2591
Page 63
Removing and installing flywheel,
replacing gear ring
Removing flywheel
Fig. 1
Loosen mounting bolts (24 mm), securing the en-
gine against turning if necessary.
Note:
Owing to the high initial torque a reinforced
socket (for machine screws) in connection
with a 1/2” tool is required.
Fig. 2
Remove two bolts facing each other and replace
them by two guide pins (special tool, see
page 127, item. 16).
1
3466
Remove all bolts.
Fig. 3
Pull off flywheel using a flat metal bar and two
bolts M12 x 1.5. Do not tilt it so that it jams.
Caution:
The flywheel is heavy.
Use lifting gear.
2
3
3675
3468
Installing flywheel
Fig. 4
Screw in guide mandrels
(special tool, see page 127, item 16).
Apply sealing agent ”Antipor 46” to the inside of
the flywheel.
Place guide mandrels on the flywheel, ensuring
that the centering mandrel (arrow) fits correctly into
the bore in the flywheel. Push on flywheel until it
stops.
62
4
3676
Page 64
Removing and installing flywheel,
replacing gear ring
Fig. 5
Lightly oil new mounting bolts (elasticated bolts) ,
screw them in and tighten alternately on opposite
sides of the ring gear to specified torque
(see ”Engineering S Data S Setting values”).
Changing starter gear ring
Fig. 6
Remove flywheel.
Drill a hole in starter gear ring and snap it using a
chisel.
5
3470
Caution:
Take care not to damage the flywheel.
Fig. 7
Heat new starter gear ring up to approx. 200_C to
230_C and press on until it stops.
Check axial runout and compare with max. permissible value.
6
7
3471
2716
63
Page 65
Removing and installing crankshaft seal
(flywheel end)
D Remove flywheel, see page 62
Removing crankshaft seal
Fig. 1
Use a screwdriver to prise seal out of the timing
case.
Installing crankshaft seal
Fig. 2
Insert new shaft seal into the flywheel housing.
1
3472
Fig. 3
Drive in seal with mandrel (special tool, see
page 127, item 12) until flush.
The pressing mandrel consists of two parts.
Observe remarks and installation notes on
page 66.
Note:
The pictures show the installation of the
shaft seal with the flywheel housing removed. It is also possible to install the seal
when the flywheel housing is attached.
To do this, place the guide ring of the
press–in mandrel on the crankshaft before
pressing in the shaft seal.
2
3
3473
3474
64
Page 66
Exchanging bearing race
D Remove flywheel, see page 62
Fig. 1
If the shaft seal on the flywheel end is to be exchanged, it is advisable to exchange the bearing
race too.
Snap the bearing race to be exchanged by applying a blow with a hammer.
Danger:
Wear goggles and working gloves for
protection against metal fragments.
Caution:
Do not damage flywheel.
Do not use a chisel.
Fig. 2
1
3748
Insert the new bearing race into the pressing mandrel (special tool, see page 127 , item 14) so that
for the subsequent assembly the internally chamfered side faces the flywheel.
Carefully heat the pressing mandrel with the bearing race. The installation temperature for the bearing race is about 150_C (300_F).
Fig. 3
Press in bearing race until it stops.
Fig. 4
2
3
3749
3750
Seal the gap between the flywheel and the bearing
race with “Antipor 46”.
65
4
3751
Page 67
Crankshaft seals
General remarks on crankshaft seals
As a matter of fundamental principle only radial shaft seals made of polytetrafluor ethylene (PTFE), trade
name Teflon, are used.
PTFE seals can be easily distinguished from the former elastomer seals by their considerably wider and
flat sealing lip which is no longer pre-loaded by means of a tubular spring.
As a result of its relatively high initial stress the sealing lip curves inwards. For this reason PTFE seals are
supplied on transport sleeves. They must not be taken off the sleeves before they are needed so as to ensure that they can still be installed. Great care should be taken when fitting lip seals. Even the slightest
damage to the seal would result in leaks.
The sealing lip and the race of the flywheel must not be coated with oil or any other lubricants.
When installing a new seal always replace the race too.
Assembly instructions for crankshaft seals
D The PTFE seal must be absolutely free of oil and grease when installed. Even the slightest traces of oil
on the race or the sealing ring cause leakage.
D Before installing the race remove oil, grease and anticorrosion agent from it. All cleaning agents nor-
mally used in workshops can be used for this purpose.
D A PTFE seal soiled with oil or grease is useless. Cleaning it is not permissible.
D The PTFE seal must never be stored without the transport sleeve delivered with it. Even after a storage
period of only 30 minutes without the transport sleeve it looses its initial stress and becomes useless.
66
Page 68
Removing and installing intake manifold
D Drain coolant, see page 37
D Remove intercooler, see page 77
Note:
When carrying out work on the intake system, ensure meticulous cleanliness to prevent dirt and foreign matter from penetrating
into the system.
Removing intake manifold
Fig. 1
Remove hose connection from LDA.
Fig. 2
Remove the mounting bolts from the intake
pipe (13 mm).
Fig. 3
Take off intake pipe.
1
2
3490
3491
Installing intake manifold
Fig. 4
Place intake manifold with new seals in position.
Tighten mounting bolts to the specified torque.
Ensure that the seals are correctly seated.
67
3
4
3492
3493
Page 69
Removing and installing exhaust manifold
D Drain coolant, see page 37.
D Remove turbocharger, see page 73.
D Remove heat exchanger, see page 46.
Removing exhaust manifold
Fig. 1
Remove the mounting bolts from the exhaust pipe
(17 mm).
Fig. 2
Caution:
The exhaust pipe is heavy.
1
3494
Before removing all mounting bolts, it is advisable
to replace two bolts with self–made threaded guide
pins (arrow) (10 mm).
Fig. 3
Take off the exhaust pipe.
2
3
3495
3496
Installing exhaust manifold
Fig. 4
Before fitting the exhaust pipe, screw in two guide
pins.
68
4
3497
Page 70
Removing and installing exhaust manifold
Fig. 5
Fit exhaust pipe with new seals.
Fig. 6
Tighten the mounting bolts to specified torque (see
”Engineering S Data S Setting values”).
5
3498
6
3499
69
Page 71
Turbocharger, trouble shooting
Before removing the turbocharger carry out the following checks
Turbochargers are frequently exchanged if the oil consumption is too high, the output too low or the intake
and/or exhaust gas noises appear to be abnormal. Subsequent inspections by the manufacturer of the supposedly defective parts frequently prove the turbochargers to be in order.
To ensure that only defective turbochargers will be exchanged in future, the following checks are to be carried out beforehand:
If the oil consumption is too high
– Check air filter for contamination,
– ensure that the engine room ventilation is adequate,
– check intake pipe for cross section reduction (owing e.g. to damage, contamination).
These causes lead to higher oil consumption owing to the increased vacuum on the intake side of the compressor.
– Check outside of turbocharger for oil traces.
Oil consumption caused directly by turbocharger depends on the bearing wear and results in relatively early
mechanical damage.
If engine performance is not satisfactory
Correct adjustment of the
– delivery start,
– valve clearance,
– speed adjustment (to full load stop).
In addition, the following are to be checked:
– the compression,
– the air filters for contamination,
– the charge-air pressure,
– the pressure in the inlet chamber of the injection pump,
– the exhaust back pressure.
If you do not detect any possible cause in the above checks, check the turbocharger for:
– Carbonization in the turbine area, which impairs the movement of the wheel assembly
(can be eliminated by axial movement).
– Dirt in the compressor area.
– Damage caused by foreign objects.
– Scraping of the turbine rotor on the housing.
If a considerable amount of dirt has accumulated, clean the compressor end and check the bearing
clearance.
Important! Do not damage the aluminium compressor wheel.
70
Page 72
Turbocharger, trouble shooting
When there is unusual intake or exhaust noise
– Check the intake and exhaust system in the area of the charger group.
– Defective gaskets can lead you to think the turbocharger is defective. Replace them.
– If there are still unusual noises, check the bearing clearance.
– Turbochargers in good working order do not make any excessive noise.
Oil accumulation in charge-air lines and the intercooler
A small amount of oil collects in the charge-air system. This is supposed to happen, is caused by oil mist,
and is desirable. The oil mist is required to lubricate the intake valve seats.
If more oil accumulates than usual, that is, if oil pockets develop in the lower air box of the intercooler, for
example, this can lead to oil disintegration or uncontrolled raising of the engine speed when the oil is separated. In such cases, you must eliminate the cause.
Possible causes:
– The engine is overfilled with oil.
– Check whether the correct dipstick and guide pipe combination is installed.
– The engine oil used is unsuitable (see publication ”Fuels, Lubricants, Coolants for Industrial and Marine
Diesel Engines”).
– The engine is being run on impermissibly steep inclines.
– The crankcase pressure is to high. This may be caused by a defective oil separator valve or piston ring
wear.
Compressor carbonization
This can occur when the charge-air temperature is permanently high, for example when the engine is
constantly run at full load.
Carbonization lowers the charging pressure but does not negatively affect performance or acceleration.
Carbonization can lead to increased exhaust clouding.
If exhaust emissions test values are no longer met:
– Remove the compressor housing, being careful not to let it get jammed. If it gets jammed, the compres-
sor wheel blades may get damaged or bent, and the resultant imbalance can ruin the turbocharger.
– Remove carbonization in the compressor housing with a suitable cleaning agent.
Caution:
Never spray in cleaning agent while the engine is running.
– ineffective
– dangerous
In problem cases, use oil types that are less likely to lead to compressor carbonisation (see publication
”Fuels, Lubricants, Coolants for Industrial and Marine Diesel Engines”)
71
Page 73
Checking the charge-air pressure
Why must the charge-air pressure be checked?
Sufficient charge-air pressure is indispensable for full power output and clean combustion.
Checking the charge-air pressure helps detect damage to the turbocharger, operating faults in the waste-
gate and leaks in the intercooler and in the charge-air pipes.
Extreme operating conditions (full-load operation and high air temperature) and the use of unsuitable en-
gine oils (also see publication ”Fuels, Lubricants, Coolants for Industrial and Marine Diesel Engines”) may
cause deposits on the compressor as well as in the intercooler, which results in a reduction in charge-air
pressure.
Preconditions for the measurement:
The delivery start and the valve clearance must be set as specified, and the engine must be at operating
temperature.
How high must the charge-air pressure be?
A general set-point value for the charge-air pressure cannot be given. Values ascertained on the test bed
ought not to be used for comparison, as the respective installation conditions are decisive. The value which
was ascertained when the ship was commissioned and was noted in the commissioning report is to be
used as the set-point value.
What must be observed during the measurement?
Owing to various atmospheric reference conditions during the measurements and to tolerances of the pressure gauges used, deviations of max. ± 100 hPa (± 100 mbar) are permissible.
Fig. 1
Two measuring connections for checking the
charge-air pressure and the charge-air temperature (also see the measuring points table in ”Engineering S Data S Setting values”) are located in the
charge-air elbow behind the intercooler.
Remove the screw plug and connect up the pressure gauge (M14x1.5).
1
3500
Fig. 2
Measure the charge-air pressure downstream of
the intercooler at nominal engine speed and full
load.
72
2
3501
Page 74
Removing and installing turbocharger
Removing turbocharger
D Drain coolant, see page 37
Fig. 1
Take off air filter. Remove the hose from the crank-
case breather.
Take off air filter. Remove the hose from the crankcase breather.
Remove the air intake funnel and the connection
from the compressor to the charge-air elbow.
Remove the hose from the wastegate.
Fig. 2
Remove oil supply and return lines (17 mm).
1
3502
Fig. 3
Remove the coolant supply line from the turbo-
charger.
Fig. 4
Remove the mounting bolts from the exhaust man-
ifold (17 mm).
Remove the coolant line between the turbine hous-
ing and the exhaust manifold.
2
3
3503
3504
73
4
3505
Page 75
Removing and installing turbocharger
Fig. 5
Take off exhaust manifold.
Fig. 6
Remove the four (self–locking) nuts from the turbo-
charger flange (17 mm).
Take off turbocharger.
5
3506
Note:
Ensure meticulous cleanliness when putting
the turbocharger aside to prevent dirt and
foreign matter from penetrating into the interior of the turbocharger.
Installing turbocharger
Fig. 7
The turbocharger is assembled in reverse order.
When assembling, use new seals and new self–
locking nuts.
Before connecting up the oil supply line, fill bearing
housing up with clean engine oil.
Check all connections for leaks and tension.
6
7
3508
3509
74
Page 76
Checking axial and radial play of turbocharger rotor shaft
D Remove turbocharger, see page 73
Fig. 1
Mark turbine housing relative to the bearing hous-
ing and remove turbine housing.
Axial play
Fig. 2
Remove turbocharger. Mark turbine housing rela-
tive to the bearing housing and remove turbine
housing.
Apply dial gauge holder and dial gauge under preload to shaft end face of the turbine wheel as
shown.
Press rotor shaft against dial gauge. Read and
note down value. Push rotor in opposite direction.
Read and note down value.
The difference between the two is the axial play.
Change turbocharger if axial play is exceeded.
1
3507
Radial play
Fig. 3
Radial play is measured only on turbine end with
dial gauge or feeler gauge.
Apply dial gauge tip to side of hub. Push turbine
wheel towards dial gauge. Read and note down
value.
Push turbine wheel in opposite direction. Read and
note down value. The difference between the values is the radial play.
Place turbine housing in position, observe markings and screw on turbine housing.
2
3
3742
3743
75
Page 77
Exchanging waste gate
Fig. 1
D 2866 LE4.. engines are equipped with waste
gates (arrow). Their task is to limit the charge-air
pressure to a precisely defined value.
Manipulation or modification of the setting is not
permitted.
Fig. 2
The waste gates are maintenance-free.
Remove the air hose and the mounting bolts to
exchange the wastegates. Use new seal.
1
3512
2
3502
76
Page 78
Removing and installing intercooler
D Drain coolant from crankcase and intercooler,
see page 37
Fig. 1
Remove the pipes from the fuel filter and detach
the fuel filter.
The coolant lines are fastened by means of plug
connections. To remove them, unscrew pressure
flange. (10 mm).
Fig. 2
Remove neck from the raw-water pump (13 mm).
1
3485
Fig. 3
Remove the five bolts from the intercooler con-
necting elbow leading to the intake pipe (13 mm).
Note:
For reasons of space, one bolt between the
expansion tank and the elbow can be
reached only with a 1/4” socket and an extension.
Take the brackets off the charge–air pipe leading
from the compressor to the intercooler (13 mm).
Caution:
The intercooler is heavy. It is now
supported only by the lower coolant
intake neck.
Fig. 4
Take off intercooler. Shake the intercooler to open
the lower plug connection from the coolant intake
neck.
Take off intercooler with the assistance of a helper.
2
3
3486
3585
77
4
3488
Page 79
Removing and installing intercooler
Disassembling and cleaning
intercooler
Fig. 5
Remove charge-air elbow (13 mm).
Fig. 6
Clean the fins on the intercooler of oil and resi-
dues, using a steam jet cleaner.
Do not damage the fins.
5
3487
6
3489
78
Page 80
Removing and installing cylinder head
Removing cylinder head
D Drain coolant, see page 37
Note:
The intake and exhaust pipes need not be
detached for removing the cylinder head.
Fig. 1
Remove the injection nozzles, see page 30.
Take off the cylinder head covers (13 mm).
Fig. 2
Remove the coolant bleed pipe.
1
3406
Fig. 3
Back off valve adjusting screws.
Loosen mounting bolts of rocker arm bracket
(17mm).
Fig. 4
Remove rocker arm bracket.
2
3
3513
3514
79
4
3515
Page 81
Removing and installing cylinder head
Fig. 5
Take out push rods.
Fig. 6
Remove cylinder head bolts in reverse order of
tightening.
Note:
Use reinforced socket (screw–driving machine) to loosen and tighten the cylinder
head bolts.
5
3516
Fig. 7
Remove the mounting bolts from the intake and
exhaust pipes for the respective cylinder head.
Also remove those intake and exhaust pipe bolts,
which are adjacent to the respective cylinder head.
This will reduce the tension on the cylinder head,
and the head can be taken off more easily.
Fig. 8
Take off cylinder head and cylinder head gasket.
Check whether cylinder head sealing face and cyl-
inder block are plane using a straight edge.
Non-plane cylinder heads can be remilled 1 mm.
Notice specified projection of injection nozzles and
valve recess (see ”Engineering S Data S Setting
values”).
6
7
3517
3518
Note:
Check cylinder heads for cracks.
80
8
3705
Page 82
Removing and installing cylinder head
Installing cylinder head
Fig. 9
Before installation clean and blow out threaded
bores in crankcase. Clean sealing faces on cylinder head and crankcase.
Lay new cylinder head gaskets in place in dry
condition, ensuring that the holes match those in
the crankcase, and place cylinder head on top.
Fig. 10
Each cylinder head is located with two fitting
sleeves (arrow).
9
3520
Fig. 11
Check whether the cylinder head bolts have the
max. permissible length (see: ”Engineering S Data
S Setting values”). Bolts that have been removed
may be used again if the max. permissible length
is not exceeded.
Coat cylinder head bolts with engine oil before inserting them and apply ”Optimoly WhiteT” assembly paste to the contact face of the bolt head.
Fig. 12
Tighten bolts by angle. Observe order of tightening
and specified tightening method, and see instructions and notes on the cylinder head bolts in the
publication ”Engineering S Data S Setting values”.
Note:
To avoid any distortion between cylinder
heads and exhaust manifolds, we recommend proceeding as follows:
D Place cylinder head gaskets and cylinder
heads in position.
D Screw in head bolts by a few turns.
D Secure steel ruler (special tool) with
ground face on the exhaust side; tightening torque for mounting bolts: 20 Nm.
If a steel ruler is not available, mount exhaust manifold and tighten to 20 Nm.
D Tighten cylinder head bolts as specified.
D Remove steel ruler.
D Tighten exhaust manifold and intake man-
ifold to specified torque.
10
11
12
3521
2811
3522
81
Page 83
Removing and installing cylinder head
Fig. 13
Check push rods for distortion. When inserting the
push rods ensure that they fit into the seat of the
valve tappet.
Put rocker arms and push rods in place. Screw in
the mounting bolts without washers and tighten
them slightly.
Align rocker arms to valves. Tighten the mounting
bolts to the specified torque.
Note:
Use only M10x70 mounting bolts (property
class 10.9).
Fig. 14
Fit new seals between the cylinder head and the
intake and exhaust pipes.
Tighten the mounting bolts on the intake and ex-
haust pipes to the specified torque.
13
3523
Fig. 15
Set valve clearance. Fit injection nozzle.
Mount cylinder head cover with new seal.
Fit coolant bleed line with new seals.
Fill up with coolant.
14
15
3499
3608
82
Page 84
Removing and installing cylinder head
General notes:
The sealing effect of the cylinder head gasket largely depends on whether the required initial tension for the
cylinder head bolts is reached and maintained.
Use calibrated torque wrenches to tighten the cylinder head bolts. When the specified final torque is applied
it must be maintained for at least 5 seconds. When using snap-type torque wrenches tighten bolts gradually
since otherwise the torque selected will not be fully transferred to the bolts.
Observe notes on usability of cylinder head bolts, order of tightening and specified tightening method in
publication ”Engineering S Data S Setting values”.
Tightening
”Tightening” is defined as the first–time tightening of newly fitted bolts that have not been tightened after a
repair, e.g. changing the cylinder head gasket. Tighten cylinder head bolts while the engine is cold, i.e. the
crankcase is warm to the touch or colder.
Before inserting the cylinder head bolts, apply engine oil to the thread (not to the threaded hole) and ”Optimoly White T” assembly paste to the contact faces of the bolt heads.
Do not use oil or oil additives containing MoS2.
If the bolts are not oiled, a significant amount of the tightening torque is converted into friction and thus lost
for the bolt pretensioning.
D To position cylinder heads, tighten cylinder head bolts only lightly.
D Align cylinder heads by screwing on the steel ruler (special tool). If a steel ruler is not available, use ex-
haust or intake manifold.
D Tighten bolts in specified order and to specified torque / tightening angle in steps.
Caution:
If during initial tightening some bolts are excessively tightened, the cylinder head will be distorted.
This distortion cannot be cancelled out by continuing to tighten according to the instructions.
83
Page 85
Setting valve clearance
Fig. 1
Remove cylinder head cover (13mm).
Figs. 2 and 3
Use barring device to turn engine so that the pis-
ton in the cylinder to be set is at TDC and the two
valves are closed. At this point both inlet and exhaust valves will be open i.e. valves overlap.
1
3389
Note:
As far as possible turn engine only in direction of rotation (anti-clockwise as seen when
looking at the flywheel) in order to prevent
the direction of rotation of the raw water
pump impeller being reversed.
Fig. 4
Arrangement of cylinders and valves
IEngine front end
II Flywheel side
A Exhaust valve
E Inlet valve
2
3390
Valves are in crossover in cylinder
1
6
Set valves in the cylinder
3
I
3607
4
53624
24153
123456
EA EA EA EA EA EA
II
84
Page 86
Setting valve clearance
Fig. 5
Push feeler gauge between valve stem and rocker
arm. Loosen lock nut (17 mm) and turn adjusting
screw with screwdriver until feeler gauge can be
moved with slight resistance.
Tighten lock nut to the specified torque (see
”Engineering S Data S Setting values”) using screw-
driver to prevent adjusting screw from turning.
Check clearance again.
Refit cylinder head covers.
Fig. 6
If the inspection hole on the flywheel housing is
accessible, a device with ratchet (special tool) may
be attached there for turning the engine over.
5
3608
6
3392
85
Page 87
Fig. 1
Remove rocker arms.
Fig. 2
Unclip circlip.
Disassembling and assembling rocker arms
1
3524
Fig. 3
Take rocker arms off the rocker arm shaft.
Note:
If the rocker arm bearing bushes have to be
exchanged, ready-to-install new or reconditioned rocker arms are to be used.
Fig. 4
Before fitting the rocker arms (1) to the rocker arm
shafts and brackets, coat sliding faces (2 and 3)
with Optimoly Paste White T. This applies to both
new and already used parts.
2
3
3525
3526
12
86
4
2812
23
Page 88
Removing and installing valves
D Remove rocker arms. Take off cylinder head
see page 79.
Removing valves
Fig. 1
Screw valve assembly lever on to cylinder head.
Note:
Valve spring and valve spring retainer can
also be replaced with the cylinder head
installed. For this purpose the relevant piston
must be at TDC, and the valve assembly lever is required.
Fig. 2
Note:
If a valve fixture is available in the workshop,
the procedure described may also be carried
out on the said fixture.
1
3527
Use valve assembly lever to press valve spring
retainer and spring downwards and take out tapered elements using a magnet. Lift assembly lever (caution: the spring is loaded) and slew it to
one side.
Figs. 3 and 4
Take out valve discs, springs, discs and valves.
Remove valve assembly lever.
Note:
The engines D 2866 LE4.. are equipped with
valve stem seals (arrow).
Take off valve stern seals. Turn cylinder head over
and take out valves.
2
3
3528
3529
87
4
3712
Page 89
Removing and installing valves
Installing valves
Fig. 5
Apply oil to valve stern and insert valves into valve
guides.
Note:
Minor damage to the valve seat can be eliminated by lapping using valve lapping paste.
New valves must always be lapped until an
even valve seat has been achieved. Machine
valve seat insert if necessary.
Turn cylinder head over and insert valve spring
washers. Screw off valve assembly lever.
Figs. 6 and 7
Place insert sleeve for valve shaft seals (special
tool, see page 129, item 19) on the respective
valve and push on seal.
5
3530
Note:
Use new valve shaft seals only.
Fig. 8
Take off insert sleeve. Fit press-in sleeve and
press in seal.
6
7
3752
3753
88
8
3754
Page 90
Fig. 9
Removing and installing valves
Insert discs and valve springs.
The word ”TOP” facing upwards, the tight coils facing downwards. Replace damaged or weak
springs.
Fit valve discs and tapered elements.
1 Valve
2 Valve stem seal (on the inlet valve only)
3 Washer
4 Outer valve spring
5 Washer
6 Inner valve spring
7 Spring retainer
8 Tapered element
Measuring valve recess
Figs. 10 and 11
Place dial gauge holder and dial gauge on cylinder
head so that the dial gauge tip contacts the cylinder head and set dial gauge to - 0 -. Slew dial
gauge towards the valve disc and read off retrusion. If necessary, change valve and/or valve seat
insert.
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
2817
10
11
3531
3532
89
Page 91
Removing and installing valve guides
D For removing and installing cylinder head,
see page 79
D For removing and installing valves,
see page 87
Fig. 1
Press valve guide out of the combustion chamber
side using pressing mandrel (special tool, see
page 129, item 20).
Oil new valve guide and drive/press it into the cylinder head using pressing mandrel and spacer
sleeve (special tool).
Fig. 2
The valve guides vary only in length.
1
3533
1 Inlet =long guide
2 Exhaust =short guide
3 Press-in depth (see publication ”Engineering S
Data S Setting values”).
The correct press-in depth is obtained by using the
spacer sleeve.
Afterwards ream valve guide to specified
dimension.
Note:
When the valve guides have been changed,
the valve seats too must be reworked (see
technical data and manufacturers’ instructions for valve seat lathes found in individual
workshops).
2
1
2818
3
2
90
Page 92
Replacing valve seat insert
Removing valve seat insert
Note:
If the valve seat inserts have to be changed it is necessary to change the valve guides too, as otherwise exact refacing of the valve seat inserts after the replacement cannot be guaranteed.
For these reasons previously mentioned the tool for removing and installing valve guides and valve
seat inserts was also designed in such a way that if this tool is used valve seat inserts can be replaced only together with the valve guides, i.e. valve guides, however, can also be changed alone.
Fig. 1
Use a valve seat machining tool (valve seat lathe)
to cut an approx. 3-4 mm wide groove in the valve
seat insert.
Insert internal puller into the groove and tighten it.
Fig. 2
Note:
To avoid damage to the cylinder head sealing face, lay disc (2) or similar item under the
arms (3) of the support.
Turn threaded spindle (4) into the internal puller
(1), align the arms (3) of the support and pull out
valve seat insert by turning the nut (5).
Clean contact face of the seat insert in the cylinder
head.
Fig. 3
If no valve seat machining tool is available, the
following procedure may be followed:
D Apply circular weld bead on the valve seat us-
ing an arc welding set (arrows),
D then pull out valve seat insert.
D Clean contact face of the seat insert in the
cylinder head.
1
2
2816
5
4
3
1
2
3581
91
3
3580
Page 93
Replacing valve seat insert
Installing valve seat insert
Fig. 4
Heat cylinder head to approx. 80_C (175_F) in
water bath.
Cool new valve seat insert to approx. –200_C
(–330_F) and insert it in the cylinder head.
Carry out check by driving it in until the stop is
reached using pressing tool.
Install valve guides.
Note:
When the valve seat inserts have been
changed, the valve seats must be reworked.
Notes:
D After temperature equalization, machine valve seats.
D After machining, clean cylinder head and check for leaks using leak testing device.
D If the cylinder head is excessively heated (above +200_C, +390_F) the core hole covers (end
covers) loose their tightness and must be exchanged.
D To do this, clean core holes, blow out channels and press in new core hole covers with
”LOCTITE 648” and pressing mandrel (special tool, see page 133).
4
3534
92
Page 94
Reworking valve seat
Reworking valve seat
(with Mira precision valve seat machining device)
Fig. 1
1 Feed nut with mm scale
2 Guide ball
3 Jaccard lever
4 Lubricating nipple
5 Rotary head
6 Hex socket screw
7 Tool
8 Guide mandrel
9 Driving crank
10 Toggle switch
11 Handle
12 Lubricating nipple
13 Mains connection
14 Magnetic flange with coil
15 Guide pipe
16 Slewing arm
Fig. 2
Select suitable guide mandrel, screw it in with a
spanner (12 mm) and tighten it.
1
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
3358
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
Note:
For extreme precision work the guide mandrel must fit snugly.
Select and insert the tool with the corresponding
seat width and the corresponding seat angle.
Fig. 3
Set the tool with a setting gauge and tighten it with
the hex socket screw.
Insert unit with guide mandrel into the valve guide.
2
3
3360
21
3359
93
Page 95
Reworking valve seat
Fig. 4
Release Jaccard lever, place magnetic flange flush
on the clamping plate and set the height so that
the tool does not contact the valve seat.
Set toggle switch to position 1.
Tighten the Jaccard lever.
Fig. 5
Machine the valve seat by turning the driving crank
evenly in clockwise direction and simultaneously
operating the feed nut.
4
3361
Caution:
During the machining process turn the driving crank vigorously and evenly but under no
circumstances against the direction of turning, as otherwise the carbide cutting edge
may break.
Fig. 6
Once the valve seat has been expertly machined,
reduce the working pressure of the tool by 2-3 revolutions without feed motion.
During these revolutions turn the feed nut 2-3 revolutions back.
Press toggle switch briefly to position 2 to lift the
magnetic field.
Now move the whole Mira unit out upwards and
insert it into the next valve guide, repeating the
centering operation.
Use the same tool settings for all intake and all
exhaust valve seats (see below).
5
6
3362
3363
Fig. 7
Observe specified seat angle.
1 Exhaust, total angle: 90_, tool setting: 45_
2 Inlet, total angle: 120_, tool setting: 30_
Repeat the chip-removing machining process until
the valve seat is clean and free of pores.
94
7
21
2819
Page 96
Reworking valve seat
Fig. 8
Note:
When dressing the valve seat inserts, remove as little material as possible from the
seat face.
The valve retrusion is to be used as reference value.
If the cylinder head interface is to be machined
(max. 1 mm), the seat inserts must be reworked to
achieve the valve retrusion.
If new valves and seat inserts are used, increase
the depth of the seat bore in the cylinder head according to the amount of material removed from
the cylinder head interface.
Fig. 9
The valve seat insert must be changed if as a re-
sult of the cylinder head interface and the valve
seat insert having been machined the theoretical
valve seat is too deep in the cylinder head or the
seat face has become too wide.
Ensure that the valve recess (X) is correct, see
page 89.
8
3362
9
2813
X
95
Page 97
Refacing valves
Fig. 1
Apply abrasive paste to tapered area on the valve
seat.
Oil valve guide and insert valve.
Fig. 2
Use valve refacer to reface valve seat by applying
moderate axial pressure and describing a turning
motion.
2
3535
Important:
Keep valve stem and valve guide free of
abrasive paste.
Fig. 3
The valve seat must have a faultless, closed grind-
ing pattern (2).
The grinding pattern width is correct if the valve
seat insert is in order.
1 Valve tapered area
2 Valve seat
Fig. 4
1 Valve seat insert
2 Valve
3 Valve seat good
4 Valve seat too wide
2
3
3591
12
2821
12 12
Note:
Valve seats which are too wide tend to accumulate coking residues,
– valves become leaky –
Valve seats that are too small prevent rapid
discharge of heat from the valve disc to the
cylinder head,
– valves burn –
96
4
43
2822
Page 98
Checking compression
Fig. 1
D Check valve clearance and adjust, if necessary,
see page 84
D Let engine warm up
D Remove all fuel injectors, see page 30
D For compression guideline values, see publica-
tion ”Engineering S Data S Setting values”
Start with 1st cylinder (water pump end). Insert
new seal, screw on test connection of compression
recorder with union nut and tighten with pin
spanner.
Fig. 2
Insert test sheet into compression recorder. Screw
compression recorder for diesel engines on to test
connection.
Turn engine over with starter until needle deflection
of compression recorder stops, at the same time
holding adjusting lever of injection pump in stop
position.
Connect up compression recorder with test connection to the next cylinder, and check all cylinders
as described above.
1
3378
Fig. 3
Depending on the compression recorder design,
the engine can also be started directly by the compression recorder. For this purpose the electrical
connections on the starter electromagnetic switch
(terminals 50 and 30) are to be accordingly
connected up.
Fig. 4
Compare the values measured and remove com-
pression recorder and test connection. Apply
”Never Seeze” to contact faces on fuel injectors.
Screw in fuel injectors with nozzle and new seal.
Screw on union nut and tighten to specified torque
(see ”Engineering S Data S Setting values”).
Connect up injection lines and leakage fuel return
lines.
2
3
3381
3382
97
4
3383
Page 99
Removing and installing timing case
D Remove starter, see page 116
D Remove flywheel, see page 62
Fig. 1
Remove the mounting bolts (17 mm).
The bottom of the timing case is bolted to the oil
pan.
Fig. 2
Take off the timing case. Take the gasket off the
timing case and fit a new one.
1
3536
Fig. 3
Check the contact washer on the camshaft for
wear, if necessary fitting a new one.
Fig. 4
Stick new gasket to timing case using grease.
Fit flywheel housing. Check whether the oil-pan
gasket is in order, if necessary fitting a new one.
Slightly oil the threads and the contact faces of the
mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to the specified torque (see ”Engineering, Data and Setting
values”).
2
3
3537
3538
98
4
3539
Page 100
Removing and installing camshaft,
exchanging camshaft bearing
Removing camshaft
D Drain coolant, see page 37
D Remove oilpan, see page 53
D Remove starter, see page 116
D Remove flywheel and timing case,
see page 98
D Remove the rocker arms and take out the push
rods, see page 79
Note:
For removing the camshaft the engine must
be turned by 180_. For this reason the engine must be placed on a dolly.
Fig. 1
Remove raw–water pump with drive system
(13 mm, 19 mm)
1
3540
Fig. 2
Remove angle drive, cover (17 mm) and raw-wa-
ter-pump drive gear from the camshaft (17 mm).
Fig. 3
Turn engine upside down so that the valve tappets
do not obstruct removal of camshaft.
Pull out camshaft, taking care not to damage the
camshaft bearings. Check camshaft for wear and
damage.
If the camshaft or the drive gear is damaged, a
new entire camshaft/gear unit must be fitted.
Check the tappets, if necessary fitting new ones.
2
3
3541
3542
99
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