Leica M Series Factory Tips

Factory tips on the
M-Series Leicas
The M-series Leica is still the standard of excellence among rangefinder-type 35mm cameras. Yet despite Leica's popularity and length of time in service, there seems to be a long-felt vacuum of factory information in the repair field — at least, so it appears from the individual questions we've been answering at National Camera.
So instructor Monty Witt ventured forth to Leitz in hopes of obtaining some first-hand factory servicing tips. The notes he brought back from New Jersey should be of prime interest to CRAFTSMAN readers. And we'd like to express our gratitude to Leitz for their courtesy and assistance in gathering this material.
Although Monty also received
bench training on the Leicaflex and the Leica M5, we'll confine ourselves this time to the notes he kept on the M2, M3, and M4 ( mainly because of the immediate availability of an M2 which was used for most of the
illustrations). We plan to pass along the Leicaflex and M5 information in future CRAFTSMAN articles.
In addition to Monty's notes, we'll include some basic information on the M-series Leicas. If you're already a proficient Leica technician, please stick with us — you should find
something new and useful besides what may already be familiar.
Disassembly Steps For The
M-Series Leicas
The Leica M2 illustrated in Fig. 1 is a slightly simplified version of the original M-series Leica, the M3. The M3 set the design precedents for the
other M-series Leicas: the Ml
(further simplified from the M2) and
the MP (a special model for press photographers quite similar to the M2). More recently, the M4 (an improved version of the M3) took over the top roost. But all the Leica models mentioned are nearly identical from the technician's viewpoint. Only the M5, which we'll not discuss here, represents a radical departure from
the original design.
If you've been in the repair business
for any length of time, you can no doubt take a Leica apart. But we find that most technicians spend time
removing parts that could just as well
be left in place. So we'll outline the disassembly techniques to reach the adjustments and timing points of concern.
Starting with the top cover plate
disassembly, remove the screw at the
top of the lens mounting ring, Fig. 1.
This screw is normally sealed with a black locking agent. Since the screw must be removed to pull either the top
cover plate or the body shell, you can frequently tell from the condition of the locking agent whether or not the camera has previously been disassembled.
Next, remove the camera's base plate as you would for loading film. The Leicas based on the M3 design carry over the load-from-the-bottom technique of the screw-mount Leicas. But the M-series Leicas added a hinged back to facilitate loading. You can remove the hinged back by pushing the release pin from left to right in Fig. 2.
Reaching into the supply-spool cavity, wedge the rewind fork to prevent it from turning. Then, use a Multispan wrench to unscrew the
cover screw that holds the rewind knob, Fig. 3. An exception here is the M4—the rewind knob in the M4 sits at a convenient cant and is held by a setscrew.
Probably one of the main disassembly problems faced by the technician is the removal of the wind lever cover screw, Fig. 3. The wind lever cover screw has a right-hand thread, but it may be extremely tight. To avoid scarring the polished
RANGEFINDER WINDOW
REWIND LEVER
Figure 1
COVER SCREW FOR VERTICAL RANGEFINDER ADJUSTMENT
FRAME LINE
MASK WINDOW
FRAME LINE SELECTOR LEVER
VIEWFINDER WINDOW
RELEASE PIN
Figure 2
surface, use a Flexiclamp wrench or a split collet to unscrew the wind lever
cover screw. You can then lift off the
wind lever and, in the M2, the counter dial.
Also, if you're working on the M2,
remove the cover plate retaining screw shown in Fig. 3. You won't find this retaining screw in the M3 or the M4 — instead, unscrew the retaining
ring accessible after removing the wind lever. The reason for the difference is that the AA2 has an external, manually set counter dial.
But in the M3 and AA4, the counter dial
is underneath the top cover plate. The spring-loaded counter dial in the M3 and AA4 automatically returns when you pull out the film take-up spool.
Another tricky part to remove is the
retaining ring around the rewind shaft. The problem here is that standard tools can't do the job — there
isn't enough room for a Flexiclamp wrench and there are no notches for a Multispan wrench. So here's one place that you may wish to design a special, tubular tool that fits over the retaining
ring.
The remaining top cover plate components are no problem. Take out the speed knob retaining screw, Fig. 3, and lift off the speed knob. And remove the four screws holding the
accessory shoe, also shown in Fig. 3.
Lift off the accessory shoe, the
accessory shoe pressure plate, and the spring.
Proceeding to the back of the
camera, unscrew the two flash socket cover rings and the two flash socket
bushings. If you're working on the M3,
also unscrew the eyepiece frame. Now, lift off the top cover plate.
Before we go into the adjustments
and timing points now visible, we'll complete the disassembly of the body shell and the rangefinder, Fig. 4. You
may, however, wish to replace the wind lever with its cover screw to examine the operation at the top of the
camera. Then, turn over the camera
and remove the three screws holding the bottom cover plate, Fig. 5. Lift off the bottom cover plate and the base
lock plate.
REWIND
KNOB COVER SCREW
ACCESSORY SHOE SCREWS
Figure 3
RANGEFINDER
ASSEMBLY
Figure 4
BOTTOM COVER PLATE RETAINING SCREWS
Figure 5
PIVOT PLATE FOR CURTAIN
END OF OPENING CURTAIN LATCH
WIND GEAR
AND OPENING
CURTAIN LATCH
COUNTER DIAL
SPEED KNOB
RETAINING SCREW
SPEED SELECTOR
SAFETY SWITCH FOR "FP" SYNC CONTACTS
"X"-SYNC ADJUSTMENT
DRUM BEARING PLATE
WIND LEVER
COVER SCREW
WIND CAM
BASE LOCK PLATE
CLOSING CURTAIN
TAKE-UP ROLLER
COVER
PLATE
RETAINING
SCREW
LOCKING
COLLARS
Adjustments At The Bottom Of The M-Series Leica
Several adjustment points are now visible at the bottom of the camera, Fig. 6. Notice that the M-series Leicas departed from the conventional methods of locking the curtain take-up rollers. To adjust the curtain tensions,
FLAT RELEASE SPRING
Figure 6
SETSCREW
ADJUSTMENT
CLOSING CURTAIN BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
OPENING CURTAIN
TAKE-UP ROLLER
use a screwdriver with a blade slightly wider than the slotted ends of
the take-up rollers central shafts.
Insert the screwdriver into the slotted end of one central shaft and push down — that depresses the locking collar and frees the central shaft. You can now turn the screwdriver to add or let off tension.
Another departure from tradition is the elimination of the interlocking­stud arrangement common to the drum-type focal-plane shutters. In the shutter-cocked position, a slot in the curtain wind gear clears the drum gear at the bottom of the curtain drum. Then, the opening curtain latch, Fig. 6, drops into engagement
with the opening curtain cam underneath the drum gear.
Depressing the release button
pushes the end of the flat release spring against the opening curtain latch. So the opening curtain latch, pushed out of engagement with the opening curtain cam, frees the opening curtain. Simultaneously, the flat release spring allows the closing curtain latch, Fig. 7, to drop down and engage the closing curtain cam.
meeting these specifications is the setscrew on the flat release spring, Fig. 6.
The "X"-sync adjustment is another conveniently located adjustment point visible in Fig. 6. The collar with the Multispan notches controls an eccentrically positioned stud at the other side of the bottom plate. And the stud, in turn, controls the position of the fixed "X" contact. Turning the collar corrects the "X"­sync delay by setting the proper space gap between the two contacts.
A second eccentric controls the tension of the closing curtain brake spring, Fig. 6. The brake spring, which we'll see after removing the body shell, engages a cam operated by the closing curtain drum. And by turning the eccentric from the bottom of the camera, you can control the amount of braking action.
Check the proper tension for the closing curtain brake by first setting the shutter to "bulb." Then, cock and
release the shutter. The closing
curtain should be stopped by the
brake spring before reaching the extreme limit of its travel. So try
pulling the closing curtain in the direction of its release movement — you should be able to pull the curtain
an additional 0.1mm—0.5mm.
In some cameras, there's also an eccentric adjustment for the opening curtain brake; the opening curtain brake eccentric is shown from a Leica M3 in Fig. 8. Check the adjustment of the opening curtain brake by holding
the shutter open at the "bulb" setting. Now, looking from the front of the focal-plane aperture, examine the position of the opening curtain bar at the right-hand side of the camera. If the opening curtain brake is properly adjusted, the edge of the opening curtain bar should be 1.5mm —
2.5mm beyond the edge of the focal­plane aperture.
Before moving too far away from
Fig. 6, we should point out the bayonet
cap in the focal-plane light shield. You can remove the bayonet cap after
rotating it a partial turn. As you will
see a little later, removing the bayonet cap uncovers an access hole in the focal-plane light shield — a hole which makes it easier to reach one of the rangefinder retaining screws.
RELEASE BUTTON
CLOSING CURTAIN
RELEASE
ROD
FLAT
RELEASE
SPRING
OPENING CURTAIN
LATCH
RELEASE CYCLE
Figure 7 '
LATCH
DRUM GEAR
Leica's specifications here are that the opening curtain should release when you depress the release button
approximately 1.5mm. Once you let up on the release button, the flat release spring raises the closing curtain latch above the closing curtain cam. Checking the operation at "bulb," the release button should
have an additional 0.2mm upward
travel after the closing curtain has
released. The adjustment point for
Figure 8
REWIND
LEVER SCREW
Figure 9 •
LEICA M3 OPENING CURTAIN BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
BODY SHELL
SCREWS
RANGEFINDER CONTROL ARM
Loading...
+ 4 hidden pages