SERVICE MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE MODEL
385. 15108200
JUNE, 2002
CONTENTS
LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THEPARTS .................................................................
WIND THE BOBBIN ..............................................................................................
PREPAREYOUR TOP THREAD ..........................................................................
STITCH SELECTOR I STITCH LENGTH CONTROLS .........................................
WHAT TO DO WHEN ............................................................................................
SERVICE ACCESS
FACE COVER ......................................................................................
BELT COVER .......................................................................................
BASE PLATE ........................................................................................
FRONT COVER ....................................................................................
REAR COVER ......................................................................................
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TOP TENSION .....................................................................................
BOBBINTENSION ...............................................................................
PRESSER BARHEIGHT ALIGNMENT................................................
NEEDLESWING ..................................................................................
NEEDLE DROP ....................................................................................
CLEARANCEBETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO,l) ......................
CLEARANCEBETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO,2) ......................
FEEDDOGHEIGHT................................................................................
NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT ........................................................................
NEEDLETIMING TO SHUTI'LE ..........................................................
BUTTONHOLE FEED BALANCE.........................................................
BARTACKFEED OF BU'I-rONHOLE...................................................
DISENGAGEMENT OF CAM FOLLOWER..........................................
MOTOR BELT TENSION .....................................................................
1
2
3
4
5-7
8
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
WIRING ..............................................................................................................
OILING ..............................................................................................................
SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED ..............................................................................
Vl.0
26
27
28
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL385. 15108200
LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS
Bobbin Winding Tension Disc
Upper ThreadGuide
Take-up Lever
Top ThreadTension Control
Face Cover Plate
Thread Cutter
Needle Plate
J
Extension Table (Accessory storage box)
Thread Spool Pins
Bobbin Winding Spindle
Window
Stitch Pattern Setting Window
Stitch Length Control
Reverse Stitch Control
Shutt_ Cover
Handwheel
Light and Power Switch
Carrying Handle
Plug Connector
\
\
C_mp Screw
Presser Foot
Presser Foot Lever
Free Arm
Nomenclature Plate
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15108200
WIND THE BOBBIN
1. PULL THE HANDWHEEL OUT.
2. DRAW THE THREAD FROM THE SPOOL THROUGH THE BOBBIN WINDING TENSION
DISCS (A).
3. PULL THE END OF THE THREAD THROUGH THE BOBBIN AS SHOWN.
PLACE THE BOBBIN ONTO THE BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE, (B) WITH THE END OF
THE THREAD COMING FROM THE TOP OF THE BOBBIN.
PUSH THE BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE TO THE RIGHT UNTIL IT CLICKS.
4. HOLDING THE END OF THREAD, START THE MACHINE. WHEN THE BOBBIN IS
SLIGHTLY FILLED, SNIP OFF THE END OF THE THREAD.
5. WIND THE THREAD UNTIL THE BOBBIN STOPS. REMOVE THE BOBBIN.
6. PUSH THE HANDWHEEL TO THE LEFT.
PLACE THE BOBBIN IN THE
BOBBIN CASE MAKING SURE
THE THREAD FEEDS
CLOCKWISE, AND IS COMING
FROM THE BOBBIN AS SHOWN,
\
PULLTHE THREAD THROUGH
THE SLOT OF THE CASE AS
SHOWN.
PULLTHETHREADUNDERTHE
TENSIONSPRING,ANDTHROUGH
THEOPENINGASSHOWNABOVE.
HOLDING THE LATCH OPEN,
POSITION THE CASE INTO THE
SHUTTLE AND RELEASE THE
LATCH,
5 THE CASE SHOULD LOCK INTO
PLACE WHEN THE LATCH IS
RELEASED.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL385. 15108200
PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD
THE NUMBERED STEPS BELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS.
THE DO'I-rED LINES SHOW PLACES WHERE THE THREAD LOOPS, AND IS PULLED
TIGHT.
RAISE THE TAKE-UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE
HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU.
RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER.
PLACE THE SPOOL ON THE PIN, WITH THE THREAD COMING FROM THE BACK OF
THE SPOOL.
1. DRAW THE THREAD THROUGH THE THREAD GUIDE.
2. HOLDING THE THREAD TAUT WITH YOUR RIGHT HAND, DRAW THE THREAD DOWN
INTO THE TENSION AREA AND THEN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER.
3. FIRMLY DRAW THE THREAD UP AND THROUGH THE TAKE-UP LEVER, FROM RIGHT
TO LEFT.
4. DRAW THE THREAD DOWN AGAIN, AND SLIP IT INTO THE NEEDLE BAR THREAD
GUIDE.
5. THREAD THE NEEDLE FROM FRONT TO BACK.
NOTE: YOU MAY WANT TO CUT THE END OF THE THREAD WITH SHARP SCISSORS
FOR EASIER NEEDLETHREADING.
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385. 15108200
STITCH SELECTOR / STITCH LENGTH
CONTROLS
f
MODEL 15008
SETTING MARK
BH 1 2 3 4 5 6 8
SETTING MARK
S_TCHLENGTH
0 4
I;Ir_o,o_o__ _)_
I
I
I
I
STITCH SELECTOR CONTROL
Bu'n'ON HOLES
0_1_.2--3--4 "
,==! '_
STITCH LENGTH CONTROL
REFER TO THE AUTOMATIC MECHANISM, FOR
THE ADJUSTMENT OF STITCH DENSITY IN THE
BU'FrONHOLES.
J
4
SEWINGMACHINE DIV.20 MODEL385. 15108200
WHAT TO DO WHEN
CONDITION CAUSE REFERENCE
1. SKIPPING
STITCHES
1.NEEDLEIS NOTINSERTED
PROPERLY.
2.NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN.
3.INCORRECTLY THREADED
4.NEEDLE OR THREAD ARE
INAPPROPRIATE FOR
FABRIC BEING SEWN.
15.SEWING ON STRETCH
FABRIC
6.INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE
BAR HEIGHT.
7.INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE
TO HOOK TIMING
8.INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE
TO HOOK CLEARANCE
INSERT THE NEEDLE PROPERLY.
CHANGETHENEEDLE.
RETHREAD.
USE THE RECOMMENDED
SEWING NEEDLEANDTHREAD.
USE A #11 BLUE TIP NEEDLE.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT
"NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT".
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT=NEEDLE
TIMING TO SHU'I-rLE".
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT'CLEARANCE
BETWEEN NEEDLE AND
HO0_.
HOW TO FIX
P.20
P.21
P.17,18
2. FABRIC NOT
MOVING
1.INCORRECT F.D. HEIGHT
2.THREAD ON BO'I-rOM SIDE
OF FABRIC IS JAMMED UP.
3.FEED DOG TEETH ARE
WORN.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT =FEED DOG
HEIGHT".
MAKE SURE TO BRING
BOTH NEEDLE AND BOBBIN
THREAD UNDER THE FOOT
WHEN STARTING SEWING.
CHANGE THE FEED DOG.
5
P.19
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385, 15108200
CONDITION CAUSE REFERENCE
3. BREAKING
UPPER
THREAD
4. BREAKING
BOBBIN
THIIEAD
1.INITIAL SEWING SPEED IS
TOO FAST.
J2.THREAD PATH IS
INCORRECT.
3.NEEDLE IS BENT OR DULL.
4.UPPER THREAD TENSION IS
TOO STRONG.
5.NEEDLE SIZE IS
INAPPROPRIATE FOR
FABRIC.
6.NEEDLE EYE IS WORN.
7.NEEDLE HOLE IN NEEDLE
PLATE ISWORN OR BURRED.
1.INCORRECTLY THREADED
BOBBIN CASE.
2.TOO MUCH THREAD IS ON
THE BOBBIN.
3.LINT IS STUCK INSIDE THE
BOBBIN HOLDER.
4.THREAD QUALITY IS
TOO LOW.
5.THREAD IS JAMMING ON
THE BOBBIN.
6.BOBBIN THREAD TENSION IS
TOO STRONG.
STARTWITH MEDIUMSPEED.
USE THE PROPER THREAD
PATH.
REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE.
ADJUST UPPER THREAD
TENSION CORRECTLY.
USE APPROPRIATE NEEDLE
FOR FABRIC AND THREAD
IN USE.
CHANGE THE NEEDLE.
REPAIR THE HOLE OR
REPLACE THE NEEDLE PLATE.
THREAD BOBBIN CASE
CORRECTLY.
ADJUST THE POSITION OF
STOPPER.
CLEAN THE HOOK RACE.
CHANGE TO A HIGH QUALITY
SEWING THREAD.
CLEAR OUT THE JAMMING
THREAD.
ADJUST BOBBIN THREAD
TENSION CORRECTLY.
HOWTO FIX
P.12
P.13
5. NEEDLE
BREAKS
1.NEEDLE IS HITI-ING THE
NEEDLE PLATE.
2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN.
3.NEEDLE IS HITTING THE
HOOK RACE.
4.THE FABRIC MOVES WHILE
THE NEEDLE IS PIERCING
IT, OR THE NEEDLE ZIGZAGS
WHILE IN THE FABRIC.
5.FABRIC IS BEING PULLED TOO
STRONGLY WHILE SEWING.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLE DROP.
CHANGE THENEEDLE.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "CLEARANCE
BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE SWING".
GUIDE THE FABRIC GENTLY
WHILE SEWING.
P.16
P.17, 18
P.15
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15108200
CONDITION
6. NOISY
OPERATION
7. DEFOt_MA]ION 1.
PATTERN
CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE
1. P.18
BACKLASH BETWEEN
SHUFFLE HOOK GEAR AND
LOWER SHAFT GEAR IS TOO
GREAT.
2,
LOWER SHAFT GEAR IS
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "CLEARANCE
BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK
(NO.2)".
ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS.
LOOSE.
3,
INAPPROPRIATE BELT
TENSION.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT =MOTOR BELT
P.25
TENSION".
4. UPPER SHAFT GEAR ISLOOSE.
5. NOT ENOUGH OIL.
INAPPROPRIATE ZIGZAG
SYNCHRONIZATION.
ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS.
OIL ALL MOVING PARTS.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE
P.15
SWING".
2.
INAPPROPRIATE
DISENGAGEMENT OF CAM
FOLLOWER.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT
"DISENGAGEMENT OF CAM
P.24
FO_OW_",
3.
UPPER THREAD TENSION
IS TOO STRONG.
ADJUST UPPERTHREAD
TENSION CORRECTLY.
P.12