Harley Davidson Dynaglide 1999-2005 Service Manual

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1

CHAPTER ONE

GENERAL INFORMATION

This detailed and comprehensive manual covers
the Harley-Davidson Dyna Glide Twin Cam 88
model from 1999-on. Procedures and specifications
unique to 2002-2005 models are covered in the
Supplement at the end of the manual. The text pro­vides complete information on maintenance,
tune-up, repair and overhaul. Hundreds of photos
and drawings guide the reader through every job.

A shop manual is a reference tool and as in all
service manuals, the chapters are thumb tabbed for

easy reference.
end of the book. All procedures, tables and figures
are designed for the reader who may be working on
the vehicle for the first time. Frequently used speci­fications and capacities from individual chapters
are summarized in the Quick Reference Data at the
front of the book.

Tables 1-9 are at the end of this chapter.

Table 1 lists model designation.

Table 2 lists general vehicle dimensions.

Important items are indexed at the

Table 3 lists vehicle weight.
Table 4 lists decimal and metric equivalents.
Table 5 lists conversion tables.
Table 6 lists general torque specifications.
Table 7 lists technical abbreviations.
Table 8 lists American tap and drill sizes.
Table 9 lists special tools.

MANUAL ORGANIZATION

All dimensions and capacities are expressed in

metric and U.S. standard units of measurement.

This chapter provides general information on
shopsafety,tooluse,servicefundamentalsand shop
supplies. The tables at the end of the chapter include
general vehicle information.

Chapter Two provides methods for quick and ac­curate diagnosis of problems. Troubleshooting pro
cedures present typical symptoms and logical
methods to pinpoint and repair the problem.

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2 CHAPTER ONE

Chapter Three explains all routine maintenance
necessary to keep the vehiclerunning well.Chapter
Three also includes recommended tune-up proce­dures, eliminating the need to constantly consult the
chapters on the various assemblies.

Subsequent chapters describe specific systems
such as engine, transmission, clutch, drive system,
fuel and exhaust systems, suspension and brakes.
Each disassembly, repair and assembly procedure is
discussed in step-by-step form.

Some of the procedures in this manual specify
special tools. In most cases, the tool is illustrated in
use. Well-equipped mechanics may be able to sub­stitute similar tools or fabricate a suitable replace­ment. However, in some cases, the specialized
equipment or expertise needed may make it imprac­tical for the home mechanic to attempt the proce­dure. When necessary, such operations are
identified in the text with the recommendation to
have a dealership or specialist perform the task. It
may be less expensive to have a professional per­form these jobs, especially when considering the
cost of the equipment.

WARNINGS, CAUTIONS AND NOTES

The terms, WARNING, CAUTION and NOTE
have specific meanings in this manual.

A WARNING emphasizes areas where injury or
even death could result from negligence. Mechani­cal damage may also occur. WARNINGS are to be
taken seriously.

ACAUTION emphasizes areas where equipment
damage could result. Disregarding a CAUTION
could cause permanent mechanical damage, though
injury is unlikely.

ANOTEprovides additional information to make
a step or procedure easier or clearer. Disregarding a
NOTE could cause inconvenience, but would not
cause equipment damage or personal injury.

SAFETY

Professional mechanics can work for years and
never sustain a serious injury or mishap. Follow
these guidelines and practice common sense to
safely service the vehicle.

1. Do not operate the vehicle in an enclosed area.
The exhaust gasses contain carbon monoxide, an
odorless, colorless, and tasteless poisonous gas.

Carbon monoxide levels build quickly in small en
closed areas and can cause unconsciousness and
death in a short time. Make sure the work area is
properly ventilated or operate the vehicle outside.

2. Never use gasoline or any extremely flammable
liquid to clean parts. Refer to Cleaning Parts and
Handling Gasoline Safely in this chapter.

3. Never smoke or use a torch in the vicinity of
flammable liquids, such as gasoline or cleaning sol­vent.

4. If welding or brazing on the vehicle, remove the
fuel tank, carburetor and shocks to a safe distance at
least 50 ft. (15 m) away.

5. Use the correct type and size of tools to avoid
damaging fasteners.

6. Keep tools clean andin good condition. Replace
or repair worn or damaged equipment.

7. When loosening a tight fastener, be guided by
what would happen if the tool slips.

8. When replacing fasteners, make sure the new
fasteners are of the same size and strength as the
original ones.

9. Keep the work area clean and organized.

10. Wear eye protection anytime the safety of the
eyes is in question. This includes procedures in­volving drilling, grinding, hammering, compressed
air and chemicals.

11. Wear the correct clothing for the job. Tie up or
cover long hair so it can not get caught in moving
equipment.

12. Do not carry sharp tools in clothing pockets.

13. Always have an approved fire extinguisher
available. Make sure it is rated for gasoline (Class
B) and electrical (Class C) fires.

14. Do not use compressed air to clean clothes, the
vehicle or the work area. Debris may be blown into
the eyes or skin. Never direct compressed air at any­one. Do not allow children to use or play with any
compressed air equipment.

15. When using compressed air to dry rotating
parts, hold the part so itcan not rotate.Do not allow
the force of the air to spin the part. The air jet is ca­pable of rotating parts at extreme speed. The part
may be damaged or disintegrate, causing serious in­jury.

16. Do not inhale the dust created by brake padand
clutch wear. These particles may contain asbestos.
In addition, some types of insulating materials and
gaskets may contain asbestos. Inhaling asbestos
particles is hazardous to health.

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GENERAL INFORMATION 3

17. Never work on the vehicle while someone is
working under it.

18. When placing the vehicle on a stand, make sure
it is secure before walking away.

Handling Gasoline Safely

Gasoline is a volatile flammable liquidand is one
of the most dangerous items in the shop. Because
gasoline is used so often, many people forget that it
is hazardous. Only use gasoline as fuel for gasoline
internal combustion engines. Keep in mind, when
working on a vehicle, gasoline is always present in
the fuel tank, fuel line and carburetor. Toavoid a di­sastrous accident when working around the fuel
system, carefully observe the following precau­tions:

1. Never use gasoline to clean parts. See Cleaning
Parts in this chapter.

2. When working on the fuel system, work outside
or in a well-ventilated area.

3. Donot add fuel tothe fuel tank or service the fuel
system while the vehicle is near open flames, sparks
or where someone is smoking. Gasoline vapor is
heavier than air,it collects in low areas and is more
easily ignited than liquid gasoline.

4. Allow the engine to cool completely before
working on any fuel system component.

5. When draining the carburetor,catch the fuel in a
plastic container and then pour it into an approved
gasoline storage device.

6. Do notstore gasoline in glass containers. If the
glass breaks, a serious explosion or fire may oc­cur.

7. Immediately wipe up spilled gasoline with rags.
Store the rags in a metal container with a lid until
they can be properly disposed of, or place them out­side in a safe place for the fuel to evaporate.

8. Do not pour water onto a gasoline fire. Water
spreads the fire and makes it more difficult to put
out. Use a class B, BC or ABC fire extinguisher to
extinguish the fire.

9. Always turn off the engine before refueling. Do
not spill fuel onto the engine or exhaust system. Do
not overfill the fuel tank. Leave an air space at the
top of the tank to allow room for the fuel to expand
due to temperature fluctuations.

Cleaning Parts

1

Cleaning parts is one of the more tedious and dif­ficult service jobs performed in the home garage.
There are many types of chemical cleaners and sol­vents available for shop use. Most are poisonous
and extremely flammable. To prevent chemical ex­posure, vapor buildup, fire and serious injury, ob­serve each product warning label and note the
following:

1. Read and observe the entire product label before
using any chemical. Always know what type of
chemical is being used and whether it is poisonous
and/or flammable.

2. Do not use more than one type of cleaning sol­vent at a time. If mixing chemicals is called for,
measure the proper amounts according to the manu­facturer.

3. Work in a well-ventilated area.

4. Wear chemical-resistant gloves.

5. Wear safety glasses.

6. Wear a vapor respirator if the instructions call
for it.

7. Wash hands and arms thoroughly after cleaning
parts.

8. Keep chemical products away from children and
pets.

9. Thoroughly clean all oil, grease and cleaner resi­due from any part that must be heated.

10. Use a nylon brush when cleaning parts. Metal
brushes may cause a spark.

11. When using a parts washer,only use the solvent
recommended by the manufacturer. Make sure the
parts washer is equipped with a metal lid that will
lower in case of fire.

Warning Labels

Most manufacturers attach information and
warning labels to the vehicle. These labels contain
instructions that are important to personal safety
when operating, servicing, transporting and storing
the vehicle. Refer to the owner’s manual for the de­scription and location of labels. Order replacement
labels from the manufacturer if they are missing or
damaged.

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4 CHAPTER ONE

SERIAL NUMBERS

Serial numbers are stamped on various locations
on the frame, engine, transmission and carburetor.
Record these numbers in the Quick Reference Data
section in the front of the book. Have these numbers
available when ordering parts.

Theframe serial number (Figure 1) is stamped on
the right side of the frame down tube.

The VIN number label (Figure 2) is located just
below the frame number on the right side frame
down tube.

Engine serial number is stamped on a pad on the
left side of the crankcase (Figure 3), as well as the
right side of the crankcase (Figure 4).

The transmission serial number (Figure 5) is
stamped on a pad on the right side of the transmis­sion case next to the side door.

The carburetor serial number (Figure 6) is lo­cated on the side of the carburetor body next to the
accelerator pump linkage.

Table 1 lists model designation.

FASTENERS

1

2

Proper fastener selection and installation is im-
portant to ensure that the vehicle operates as de-
signedand can be serviced efficiently.The choice of
original equipment fasteners is not arrived at by
chance. Make sure that replacement fasteners meet
all the same requirements as the originals.

Threaded Fasteners

Threaded fasteners secure most of the compo­nents on the vehicle. Most are tightened by turning
them clockwise (right-hand threads). If the normal
rotation of the component being tightened would
loosen the fastener,it may haveleft-hand threads. If
a left-hand threaded fastener is used, it is noted in
the text.

Two dimensions are required to match the threads
of the fastener: the number of threads in a given dis­tance and the outside diameter of the threads.

Two systems are currently used to specify
threaded fastener dimensions: the U.S. Standard
system and the metric system (Figure 7). Pay par­ticular attention when working with unidentified
fasteners; mismatching thread types can damage
threads.

3

4

GENERAL INFORMATION 5

5

8

-9.8

Grade marking

T

D

L

1

NOTE

6

To ensure that the fastener threads are
not mismatched or cross-threaded,
start all fasteners by hand. If a fas­tener is hard to start or turn, deter­mine the cause before tightening with
a wrench.

The length (L, Figure 8), diameter (D) and dis-

tance between thread crests (pitch) (T) classify met­ric screws and bolts. A typical bolt may be
identified by the numbers, 8—1.25 × 130. This indi­cates the bolt has diameter of 8 mm, the distance be­tween thread crests is 1.25 mm and the length is 130

mm. Always measure bolt length as shown in Fig-

7

ure 8 to avoid purchasing replacements of the

wrong length.

The numbers located on the top of the fastener

(Figure 8) indicate the strength of metric screws

and bolts. The higher the number, the stronger the
fastener is. Unnumbered fasteners are the weakest.

American Metric

Many screws, bolts and studs are combined with
nuts to secure particular components. To indicate
the size of a nut, manufacturers specify the internal
diameter and the thread pitch.

The measurement across two flats on a nut or bolt
indicates the wrench size.

60°

60°

WARNING
Do not install fasteners with a
strength classification lower than
what was originally installed by the
manufacturer. Doing so may cause
equipment failure and/or damage.

Torque Specifications

The materials used in the manufacture of the ve

hicle may be subjected to uneven stresses if the fas

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6 CHAPTER ONE

teners of the various subassemblies are not installed
and tightened correctly. Fasteners that are improp-

9

erly installed or work loose can cause extensive
damage. It is essential to use an accurate torque
wrench, described in this chapter, with the torque
specifications in this manual.

Specifications for torque are provided in New-

ton-meters (N•m), foot-pounds (ft.-lb.) and

inch-pounds (in.-lb.). Refer to Table 6 for general
torque specifications. To use Table 6, first deter-

Correct
installation of
cotter pin

mine the size of the fastener as described in Fas­teners in this chapter. Torque specifications for

specific components are at the end of the appropri­ate chapters. Torque wrenches are covered in the
Basic Tools section.

Self-Locking Fasteners

Several types of bolts, screws and nuts incorpo­rate a system that creates interference between the
two fasteners. Interference is achieved in various
ways. The most common type is the nylon insert nut
and a dry adhesive coating on the threads of a bolt.

10

Self-locking fasteners offer greater holding
strength than standard fasteners, which improves
their resistance to vibration. Most self-locking fas­teners cannot be reused. The materials used to form
the lock become distorted after the initial installa­tion and removal. It is a good practice to discard and

Internal snap ring

Plain clip

replace self-locking fasteners after their removal.
Do not replace self-locking fasteners with standard
fasteners.

Washers

There are two basic types of washers: flat wash­ers and lockwashers. Flat washers are simple discs
with a hole to fit a screw or bolt. Lockwashers are
used to prevent a fastener from working loose.
Washers can be used as spacers and seals, or to help
distribute fastener load and to prevent the fastener
from damaging the component.

As with fasteners, when replacing washers make
sure the replacement washers are of the same design
and quality.

Cotter Pins

A cotter pin is a split metal pin inserted into a hole
or slot to prevent a fastener from loosening. In cer

External snap ring

E-ring

tain applications, such as the rear axle on an ATV or
motorcycle, the fastener must be secured in this
way. For these applications, a cotter pin and castel­lated (slotted) nut is used.

To use a cotter pin, first make sure the diameter is
correct for the hole in the fastener. After correctly
tightening the fastener and aligning the holes, insert
the cotter pin through the hole and bend the ends

over the fastener (Figure 9). Unless instructed to do

so, never loosen a torqued fastener to align the
holes. If the holes do not align, tighten the fastener

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just enough to achieve alignment.

GENERAL INFORMATION 7

11

Direction
of thrust

12

Full
support
areas

Rounded edges
Sharp edges

Two basic types of snap rings are used: machined

and stamped snap rings. Machined snap rings (Fig-
ure 11) can be installed in either direction, since

both faces have sharp edges. Stamped snap rings

(Figure12) are manufactured with a sharp edge and

a round edge. When installing a stamped snap ring
in a thrust application, install the sharp edge facing
away from the part producing the thrust.

E-clips and circlips are used when it is not practi­cal to use a snap ring. Remove E-clips with a flat
blade screwdriver by prying between the shaft and
E-clip. To install an E-clip, center it over the shaft
groove and push or tap it into place.

Observe the following when installing snap rings:

1. Remove and install snap rings with snap ring pli­ers. See Snap Ring Pliers in this chapter.

2. In some applications, it may be necessary to re­place snap rings after removing them.

3. Compress or expand snap rings only enough to
install them. If overly expanded, they lose their re­taining ability.

4. After installing a snap ring, make sure it seats
completely.

5. Wear eye protection when removing and install­ing snap rings.

1

Direction of thrust

Cotter pins are available in various diameters and
lengths. Measure length from the bottom of the
head to the tip of the shortest pin.

Snap rings and E-clips

Snap rings (Figure 10) are circular-shaped metal

retaining clips. They are required to secure parts
and gears in place on parts such as shafts, pins or
rods. External type snap rings are used to retain
items on shafts. Internal type snap rings secure parts
within housing bores. In some applications, in addi­tion to securing the component(s), snap rings of
varying thickness also determine endplay. These are
usually called selective snap rings.

SHOP SUPPLIES

Lubricants and Fluids

Periodic lubrication helps ensure a long service
life for any type of equipment. Using the correct
type of lubricant is as important as performing the
lubrication service, although in an emergency the
wrong type is better than none. The following sec­tion describes the types of lubricants most often re­quired. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s
recommendations for lubricant types.

Engine oils

Engine oil is classified by two standards: the
American Petroleum Institute (API) service classi­fication and the Society of Automotive Engineers
(SAE) viscosity rating. This information is on the
oil container label. Two letters indicate the API ser­vice classification. The number or sequence of
numbers and letter (10W-40 for example) is the oil’s
viscosity rating. The API service classification and

8 CHAPTER ONE

the SAE viscosity index are not indications of oil
quality.

The service classification indicates that the oil
meets specific lubrication standards. The first letter
in the classification (S) indicates that the oil is for
gasoline engines. The second letter indicates the
standard the oil satisfies. The classification started
with the letter A and is currently at the letter J.

Always use an oil with a classification recom­mended by the manufacturer. Using an oil with a
different classification can cause engine damage.

Viscosity is an indication of the oil’s thickness.
Thin oils have a lower number while thickoils have
a higher number. Engine oils fall into the 5- to
50-weight range for single-grade oils.

Most manufacturers recommend multigrade oil.
These oils perform efficiently across a wide range
of operating conditions. Multigrade oils are identi­fied by a W after the first number, which indicates
the low-temperature viscosity.

Engine oils are most commonly mineral (petro­leum) based; however, synthetic and semi-synthetic
types are used more frequently. When selecting en­gine oil, follow the manufacturer’s recommenda­tion for type, classification and viscosity when
selecting engine oil.

Greases

Grease is lubricating oil with thickening agents
added to it. The National Lubricating Grease Insti­tute (NLGI) grades grease. Grades range from No.
000 to No. 6, with No. 6 being the thickest. Typical
multipurpose grease is NLGI No. 2. For specific ap­plications, manufacturers may recommend wa­ter-resistant type grease or one with an additive
such as molybdenum disulfide (MoS

).

2

Brake fluid

Brake fluid is the hydraulic fluid used to transmit
hydraulic pressure (force) to the wheel brakes.
Brake fluid is classified by the Department of
Transportation (DOT). Current designations for
brake fluid are DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5. This
classification appears on the fluid container.

Each type of brake fluid has its own definite char­acteristics. The Harley-Davidson Dyna Glide uses
the silicone based DOT 5 brake fluid. Do not inter
mix DOT 3 or DOT 4 type brake fluid as this may

cause brake system failure since the DOT 5 brake
fluid is not compatible with other brake fluids.
When adding brake fluid, only use the fluid recom­mended by the manufacturer.

Brake fluid will damage any plastic, painted or
plated surface it contacts. Use extreme care when
working with brake fluid and remove any spills im­mediately with soap and water.

Hydraulic brake systems require clean and mois­ture free brake fluid. Never reuse brake fluid. Keep
containers and reservoirs properly sealed.

WARNING
Never put a mineral-based (petro­leum) oil into the brake system. Min­eral oil will cause rubber parts in the
system to swell and break apart, re­sulting in complete brake failure.

Cleaners, Degreasers and Solvents

Many chemicals are available to remove oil,
grease and other residue from the vehicle. Before
using cleaning solvents, consider how they will be
usedand disposed of, particularlyif they are not wa­ter-soluble. Local ordinances may require special
procedures for the disposal of many types of clean­ing chemicals. Refer to Safety and Cleaning Parts
in this chapter for more information on their use.

Use brake parts cleaner to clean brake system
components when contact with petroleum-based
products will damage seals. Brake parts cleaner
leaves no residue. Use electrical contact cleaner to
clean electrical connections and components with­out leaving any residue. Carburetor cleaner is a
powerful solvent used to remove fuel deposits and
varnish from fuel system components. Use this
cleaner carefully, as it may damage finishes.

Generally, degreasers are strong cleaners used to
remove heavy accumulations of grease from engine
and frame components.

Most solvents are designed to be used in a parts
washingcabinet for individual component cleaning.
For safety, use only nonflammable or high flash
point solvents.

Gasket Sealant

Sealants are used in combination with a gasket or
seal and are occasionally alone. Follow the manu

­facturer’s recommendation when using sealants.

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GENERAL INFORMATION 9

13

Use extreme care whenchoosing a sealant different
from the type originally recommended. Choose
sealants based on their resistance to heat, various
fluids and their sealing capabilities.

One of the most common sealants is RTV, or
room temperature vulcanizing sealant. This sealant
cures at room temperature over a specific time pe­riod. This allows the repositioning of components
without damaging gaskets.

Moisture in the air causes the RTV sealant to
cure. Always install the tube cap as soon as possible
after applying RTVsealant. RTV sealant has a lim­ited shelf life and will not cure properly if the shelf
life has expired. Keep partial tubes sealed and dis­card them if they have surpassed the expiration
date.

moval process and prevent damage to the mating
surface that may be caused by using a scraping tool.
Most of these types of products are very caustic.
Follow the gasket remover manufacturer’s instruc­tions for use.

Threadlocking Compound

A threadlocking compound is a fluid applied to
the threads of fasteners. After tightening the fas­tener, the fluid dries and becomes a solid filler be­tween the threads. This makes it difficult for the
fastener to work loose from vibration, or heat ex­pansion and contraction. Some threadlocking com­pounds also provide a seal against fluid leakage.

Before applying threadlocking compound, re­move any old compound from both thread areas and
clean them with aerosol parts cleaner. Use the com­poundsparingly.Excess fluid can run into adjoining
parts.

Threadlockingcompounds are available in differ­ent strengths. Follow the particular manufacturer’s
recommendations regarding compound selection.
Two manufacturers of threadlocking compound are
ThreeBond and Loctite. They both offer a wide
range of compounds for various strength, tempera­ture and repair applications.

BASIC TOOLS

1

Applying RTV sealant

Clean all old gasket residue from the mating sur­faces. Remove all gasket material from blind
threaded holes; it can cause inaccurate bolt torque.
Spray the mating surfaces with aerosol parts cleaner
and then wipe with a lint-free cloth. The area must
be clean for the sealant to adhere.

Apply RTV sealant in a continuous bead 2-3 mm
(0.08-0.12 in.) thick. Circle all the fastener holes
unless otherwise specified. Do not allow any seal­ant to enter these holes. Assemble and tighten the
fasteners to the specified torque within the time
frame recommended by the RTV sealant manufac­turer.

Gasket Remover

Aerosol gasket remover can help remove stub
born gaskets. This product can speed up the re

Most of the proceduresin this manual can be car­ried out with simple hand tools and test equipment
familiar to the home mechanic. Always use the cor­rect tools for the job at hand. Keep tools organized
and clean. Store them in a tool chest with related
tools organized together.

Quality tools are essential. The best are con­structed of high-strength alloy steel. These tools are
light, easy to use and resistant to wear. Their work­ing surface is devoid of sharp edges and the tool is
carefully polished. They have an easy-to-clean fin­ish and are comfortable to use. Quality tools are a
good investment.

When purchasing tools to perform the procedures
covered in this manual, consider the tools’potential
frequency of use. If a tool kit is just now being
started, consider purchasing a basic tool set (Figure

13) from a large tool supplier. These sets are avail
able in many tool combinations and offer substan

­tial savings when compared to individually

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10 CHAPTER ONE

purchased tools. As work experience grows and
tasks become more complicated, specialized tools
can be added.

Screwdrivers

Screwdrivers of various lengths and types are
mandatory for the simplest tool kit. The two basic
types are the slotted tip (flat blade) and the Phillips
tip. These are available in sets that often include an
assortment of tip sizes and shaft lengths.

As with all tools, use a screwdriver designed for
the job. Make sure the size of the tip conforms to the
size and shape of the fastener. Use them only for
driving screws. Never use a screwdriver for prying
or chiseling metal. Repair or replace worn or dam­aged screwdrivers. A worn tip may damage the fas­tener, making it difficult to remove.

14

15

Wrenches

Open-end, box-end and combination wrenches

(Figure14) are available in various types and sizes.

The number stamped on the wrench refers to the
distance between the work areas. This size must
match the size of the fastener head.

The box-end wrench is an excellent tool because
it grips the fastener on all sides. This reduces the
chance of the tool slipping. The box-end wrench is
designed with either a 6- or 12-point opening. For
stubborn or damaged fasteners, the 6-point provides
superior holding ability by contacting the fastener
across a wider area at all six edges. For general use,
the 12-point works well. It allows the wrench to be
removed and reinstalled without moving the handle
over such a wide arc.

An open-end wrench is fast and works best in ar­eas with limited overhead access. It contacts the fas­tener at only two points, and is subject to slipping
under heavy force, or if the tool or fastener is worn.
A box-end wrench is preferred in most instances,
especially when breaking loose and applying the
final tightness to a fastener.

The combination wrench has a box end on one
end and an open end on the other. This combination
makes it a very convenient tool.

16

Adjustable Wrenches

An adjustable wrench or Crescent wrench (Fig-

ure 15) can fit nearly any nut or bolt head that has

clear access around its entire perimeter. Adjustable
wrenches are best used as a backup wrench to keep
a large nut or bolt from turning while the other end
is being loosened or tightened with a box-end or
socket wrench.

Adjustable wrenches contact the fastener at only
two points, making them more likely to slip off the
fastener. The fact that one jaw is adjustable and may

GENERAL INFORMATION 11

17

18

19

the socket is the size of the work area and must
match the fastener head.

As with wrenches, a 6-point socket provides su­perior holding ability, while a 12-point socket needs
to be moved only half as far to reposition it on the
fastener.

Sockets are designated for either hand or impact
use. Impact sockets are made of thicker material for
more durability. Compare the size and wall thick-

ness of a 19-mm hand socket (A, Figure 18) and the

19-mm impact socket (B). Use impact sockets when
using an impact driver or air tools. Use hand sockets
with hand-driven attachments.

WARNING
Do not use hand sockets with air or
impact tools, as they may shatter and
cause injury. Always wear eye protec­tion when using impact or air tools.

Various handles are available for sockets. The
speed handle is used for fast operation. Flexible
ratchet heads in varying lengths allow the socket to
be turned with varying force, and at odd angles. Ex­tension bars allow the socket setup to reach difficult
areas. The ratchet is the most versatile. It allows the
user to install or remove the nut without removing
the socket.

Sockets combined with any number of drivers
make them undoubtedly the fastest, safest and most
convenient tool for fastener removal and installa­tion.

1

loosen only aggravates this shortcoming. Make cer­tain that the solid jaw is the one transmitting the
force.

Socket Wrenches, Ratchets and Handles

Sockets that attach to a ratchet handle (Figure16)

are available with 6-point (A, Figure 17) or

12-point (B) openings and different drive sizes. The
drive size indicates the size of the square hole that
accepts the ratchet handle. The number stamped on

Impact Driver

An impact driver provides extra force for remov­ing fasteners, by converting the impact of a hammer
into a turning motion. This makes it possible to re­move stubborn fasteners without damaging them.

Impact drivers and interchangeable bits (Figure 19)

are available from most tool suppliers. When using
a socket with an impact driver make sure the socket
is designed for impact use. Refer to Socket

Wrenches, Ratchets and Handles in this section.

WARNING
Do not use hand sockets with air or
impact tools as they may shatter and
cause injury. Always wear eye protec
tion when using impact or air tools.

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12 CHAPTER ONE

Allen Wrenches

Allen or setscrew wrenches (Figure 20) are used

on fasteners with hexagonal recesses in the fastener
head. These wrenches are available in L-shaped bar,
socket and T-handle types. A metric set is required
when working on most vehicles. Allen bolts are
sometimes called socket bolts.

Torque Wrenches

A torque wrench is used with a socket, torque
adapter or similar extension to tighten a fastener
o a measured torque. Torque wrenches come in sev­eral drive sizes (1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4) and have vari­ous methods of reading the torque value. The drive
size indicates the size of the square drive that ac­cepts the socket, adapter or extension. Common
methods of reading the torque value are the deflect­ing beam, the dial indicator and the audible click

(Figure 21).

When choosing a torque wrench, consider the
torque range, drive size and accuracy. The torque
specifications in this manual provide an indication
of the range required.

A torque wrench is a precision tool that must be
properly cared for to remain accurate. Store torque
wrenches in cases or separate padded drawers
within a toolbox. Follow the manufacturer’s in­structions for their care and calibration.

20

21

22

Torque Adapters

Torque adapters or extensions extend or reduce
the reach of a torque wrench. The torque adapter

shown in Figure 22 is used to tighten a fastener that

cannot be reached due to the size of the torque
wrench head, drive, and socket. If a torque adapter

changes the effective lever length (Figure 23), the

torque reading on the wrench will not equal the ac­tual torque applied to the fastener. It is necessary to
recalibrate the torque setting on the wrench to com­pensate for the change of lever length. When a
torque adapter is used at a right angle to the drive
head, calibration is not required, since the effective
length has not changed.

To recalculate a torque reading when using a
torque adapter, use the following formula, and refer

to Figure 23.

TW = TA ×L

L + A = E

TW is the torque setting or dial reading on the

wrench.

TA is the torque specification and the actual

amount of torque that will be applied to the fastener.

A is the amount that the adapter increases (or in
some cases reduces) the effective lever length as
measured along the centerline of the torque wrench

(Figure 23).

L is the lever length of the wrench as measured
from the center of the drive to the center of the grip.

GENERAL INFORMATION 13

23

HOW TO MEASURE TORQUE WRENCH EFFECTIVE LENGTH

L

L

L+A= Effective length

L

L= Effective length

L

No calculation needed

A

A

1

24

The effective length is the sum of L and A (Fig-

ure 23).

Example:
TA = 20 ft.-lb.
A = 3 in.
L = 14 in.
E = 17 in.
TW = 20×14

= 280 = 16.5 ft. Lb.

14 +3 = 17

In this example, the torque wrench would be set

to the recalculated torque value (TW = 16.5 ft.-lb.) .

25

When using a beam-type wrench, tighten the fas­tener until the pointer aligns with 16.5 ft.-lb. In this
example, although the torque wrench is preset to

16.5 ft.-lb., the actual torque is 20 ft.-lb.

Pliers

Pliers come in a wide range of types and sizes.
Pliers are useful for holding, cutting, bending, and

crimping. Do not use them to turn fasteners. Figure
24 and Figure 25 show several types of useful pli

-

14 CHAPTER ONE

26

ers. Each design has a specialized function.
Slip-joint pliers are general-purpose pliers used for
gripping and bending. Diagonal cutting pliers are
needed to cut wire and can be used to remove cotter
pins. Needlenose pliers are used to hold or bend

small objects. Locking pliers (Figure 25), some-

times called Vise-grips, are used to hold objects
very tightly. They have many uses, ranging from
holding two parts together to gripping the end of a
broken stud. Use caution when using locking pliers,
as the sharp jaws will damage the objects they hold.

27

28

Snap Ring Pliers

Snap ring pliers are specialized pliers with tips
that fit into the ends of snap rings to remove and in­stall them.

Snap ring pliers are available with a fixed action
(either internal or external) or convertible (one
tool works on both internal and external snap
rings). They may have fixed tips or interchange­able ones of various siz es and angles. For general
use, select a convertible type pliers with inter­changeable tips.

WARNING
Snap rings can slip and fly off when
removing and installing them. Also,
the snap ring pliers tips may break.
Always wear eye protection when us­ing snap ring pliers.

Hammers

Various types of hammers (Figure 26) are avail-

able to fit a number of applications. A ball-peen
hammer is used to strike another tool, such as a
punch or chisel. Soft-faced hammers are required

when a metal object must be struck without damag­ing it. Never use a metal-faced hammer on engine
and suspension components, as damage will occur
in most cases.

Always wear eye protection when using ham­mers. Make sure the hammer face is in good condi­tion and the handle is not cracked. Select the correct
hammer for the job and make sure to strike the ob­ject squarely. Do not use the handle or the side of the
hammer to strike an object.

PRECISION MEASURING TOOLS

The ability to accurately measure components is
essential to successfully rebuild an engine. Equip­ment is manufactured to close tolerances, and ob­taining consistently accurate measurements is
essential to determining which components require
replacement or further service.

Each type of measuring instrument is designed to
measure a dimension with a certain degree of accu­racy and within a certain range. When selecting the
measuring tool, make sure it is applicable to the
task.

GENERAL INFORMATION 15

29

Aswith all tools, measuringtools provide the best
results if cared for properly.Improper use can dam­age the tool and result in inaccurate results. If any
measurement is questionable, verify the measure­mentusing another tool. Astandardgauge is usually
provided with measuring tools to check accuracy
and calibrate the tool if necessary.

Precision measurements can vary according to
the experience of the person performing the proce­dure. Accurate results are only possible if the me­chanic possesses a feel for using the tool.
Heavy-handed use of measuring tools will produce
less accurate results. Hold the tool gently by the fin­gertips so the point at which the tool contacts the
object is easily felt. This feel for the equipment will
produce more accurate measurements and reduce
therisk of damaging thetool or component. Referto
thefollowing sections for specific measuring tools.

Feeler Gauge

The feeler or thickness gauge (Figure27) is used
for measuring the distance between two surfaces.

A feeler gauge set consists of an assortment of
steel strips of graduated thickness. Each blade is
marked with its thickness. Blades can be of various
lengths and angles for different procedures.

10.00 mm

0.50 mm

10.55 mm

0.400 mm

0.013 mm

0.413 mm

Moveable scaless

Fixed scale

A common use for a feeler gauge is to measure
valve clearance. Wire (round) type gauges are used
to measure spark plug gap.

Calipers

Calipers (Figure 28) are excellent tools for ob­taining inside, outside and depth measurements. Al­though not as precise as a micrometer, they allow
reasonable precision, typically to within 0.05 mm
(0.001 in.). Most calipers have a range up to 150
mm (6 in.).

Calipers are available in dial, vernier or digital
versions. Dial calipers have a dial readout that pro­vides convenient reading. Vernier calipers have
marked scales that must be compared to determine
the measurement. The digital caliper uses an LCD
to show the measurement.

Properly maintain the measuring surfaces of the
caliper.There must not be any dirt or burrs between
the tool and the object being measured. Never force
thecaliper closed around an object; close the caliper
around the highest point so it can be removed with a
slight drag. Some calipers require calibration. Al­ways refer to the manufacturer’s instructions when
using a new or unfamiliar caliper.

To read a vernier caliper refer, to Figure 29. The
fixed scale is marked in 1 mm increments.Tenindi

1

-

16 CHAPTER ONE

30

DECIMAL PLACE VALUES*

0.1 Indicates 1/10 (one tenth of an inch

0.010 Indicates 1/100 (one one-hundreth of

0.001 Indicates 1/1,000 (one one-thousandth

*This chart represents the values of figures placed to the right of the decimal point. Use it when

reading decimals from one-tenth to one one-thousandth of an inch or millimeter. It is not a con-

version chart (for example: 0.001 in. is not equal to 0.001 mm).

or millimeter)

an inch or millimeter)

of an inch or millimeter)

vidual lines on the fixed scale equal 1 cm. The
moveable scale is marked in 0.05 mm (hundredth)

31

increments. To obtain a reading, establish the first
number by the location of the 0 line on the movable
scale in relation to the first line to the left on the
fixed scale. In this example, the number is 10 mm.
To determine the next number, note which of the
lines on the movable scale align with a mark on the
fixed scale. A number of lines will seem close, but
only one will align exactly. In this case, 0.50 mm is
the reading to add to the first number. The result of
adding 10 mm and 0.50 mm is a measurement of

10.50 mm.

Reading a Micrometer

Micrometers

Amicrometer is an instrument designed for linear

measurement using the decimal divisions of the
inch or meter (Figure 30). While there are many
types and styles of micrometers, most of the proce­dures in this manual call for an outside micrometer.
The outside micrometer is used to measure the out­side diameter of cylindrical forms andthe thickness
of materials.

A micrometer’s size indicates the minimum and

maximum size of a part that it can measure. The
usual sizes (Figure 31) are 0-1 in. (0-25 mm), 1-2
in. (25-50 mm), 2-3 in. (50-75 mm) and 3-4 in.
(75-100 mm).

Micrometersthat cover a wider range of measure­ments are available. These use a large frame with
interchangeable anvils of various lengths.This type
of micrometer offers a cost savings; however, its
overall size may make it less convenient.

When reading a micrometer, numbers are taken
from different scales and added together. The fol­lowing sections describe how to read the measure­ments of various types of outside micrometers.

For accurate results, properly maintain the mea­suring surfaces of the micrometer. There cannot be
any dirt or burrs between the tool and the measured
object. Never force the micrometer closed around
an object. Close the micrometer around the highest
pointso it can beremoved with a slight drag. Figure
32 shows the markings and parts of a standard inch
micrometer.Be familiar withthese terms before us­ing a micrometer in the following sections.

Standard inch micrometer

The standard inch micrometer is accurate to
one-thousandth of an inch or 0.001. The sleeve is
marked in 0.025 in. increments. Every fourth sleeve

GENERAL INFORMATION 17

32

33

STANDARD INCH MICROMETER

Sleeve line

Thimble marks

Sleeve

Frame

1. Largest number visible on the
sleeve line

2. Number on sleeve marks visible
between the numbered sleeve mark
and the thimble edge

3. Thimble mark that aligns with
sleeve line

Anvil

Sleeve

Spindle

Thimble

Locknut

Thimble
numbers

1

Ratchet

0.200 in.

0.025 in.

0.006 in.

mark is numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9. These num­bers indicate 0.100, 0.200, 0.300, and so on.

The tapered end of the thimble has twenty-five
lines marked around it. Each mark equals 0.001 in.
One complete turn of the thimble will align its zero
mark with the first mark on the sleeve or 0.025 in.

When reading a standard inch micrometer, per­form the following steps while referring to Figure

33.

1. Read the sleeve and find the largest number visi­ble. Each sleeve number equals 0.100 in.

2. Count the number of lines between the num­bered sleeve mark and the edge of the thimble. Each
sleeve mark equals 0.025 in.

3. Read the thimble mark that aligns with the
sleeve line. Each thimble mark equals 0.001 in.

Total reading

0.231 in.

NOTE
If a thimble mark does not align ex­actly with the sleeve line, estimate the
amount between the lines. For accu­rate readings in ten-thousandths of an
inch (0.0001 in.), use a vernier inch
micrometer.

4. Add the readings from Steps 1-3.

Vernier inch micrometer

A vernier inch micrometer is accurate to one
ten-thousandth of an inch or 0.0001 in. It has the
same marking as a standard inch micrometer with
an additional vernier scale on the sleeve (Figure

34).

18 CHAPTER ONE

34

35

Vernier scale

1. Largest number visible on

Sleeve

Vernier scale

Sleeve

Thimble

Thimble

sleeve line

2. Number of sleeve marks visible
between the numbered sleeve mark
and the thimble edge

3. Thimble is between 0.018 and 0.019

in. on the sleeve line

4. Vernier line coinciding with
thimble line

STANDARD METRIC MICROMETER

Sleeve line

Thimble

Anvil

Locknut

Spindle

Total reading

0.100 in.

0.050 in.

0.018 in.

0.0003 in.

0.1683 in.

Sleeve marks

The vernier scale consists of 11 lines marked 1-9
with a 0 on each end. These lines run parallel to the
thimble lines and represent 0.0001 in. increments.

Whenreading a vernier inch micrometer, perform
the following steps while referring to Figure 34.

1. Read the micrometer in the same way as a stan­dard micrometer. This is the initial reading.

2. If a thimble mark aligns exactly with the sleeve
line, reading the vernier scale is not necessary. If
they do not align, read the vernier scale in Step 3.

3. Determine which vernier scale mark aligns with
one thimble mark. The vernier scale number is the

Thimble marks

Ratchet

amount in ten-thousandths of an inch to add to the
initial reading from Step 1.

Metric micrometer

The standard metric micrometer (Figure 35) is

accurate to one one-hundredth of a millimeter
(0.01-mm). The sleeve line is graduatedin millime­ter and half millimeter increments. The marks on
the upper half of thesleeve lineequal 1.00mm. Ev
ery fifth mark above the sleeve line is identified
with a number. The number sequence depends on

-

GENERAL INFORMATION 19

36

Sleeve

Sleeve

Thimble

Thimble

the size of themicrometer. A 0-25 mm micrometer,
for example, will have sleeve marks numbered 0
through 25 in 5 mm increments. This numbering se­quence continues with larger micrometers. On all
metric micrometers, each mark on the lower half of
the sleeve equals 0.50 mm.

Thetaperedendof thethimblehas 50 linesmarked
aroundit. Each mark equals0.01 mm. One complete
turnof thethimblealigns its0 mark with the first line
on the lower halfof the sleeve line or 0.50mm.

When reading a metricmicrometer, add the num­ber of millimeters and half-millimeters on the
sleeve line to the number of one one-hundredth mil­limeterson the thimble. Perform the following steps
while referring to Figure 36.

1. Read the upper half of the sleeve line and count
the number of lines visible. Each upper line equals 1
mm.

2. See if the half-millimeter line is visible on the
lower sleeve line. If so, add 0.50 mm to the reading
in Step 1.

3. Read the thimble mark that aligns with the
sleeve line. Each thimble mark equals 0.01 mm.

1. Reading on upper sleeve line

2. Reading on lower sleeve line

3. Thimble line coinciding with
sleeve line

Total reading

5.00 mm

0.50 mm

0.18 mm

5.68 mm

Metric vernier micrometer

Ametric vernier micrometer (Figure 37) is accu-

rate to two-thousandths of a millimeter (0.002 mm).
It has the same markings as a standard metric mi­crometer with the addition of a vernier scale on the
sleeve.

The vernier scale consists of five lines marked 0,
2, 4, 6, and 8. Theselines run parallelto the thimble
lines and represent 0.002-mm increments.

When reading a metric vernier micrometer, per­form the following steps and refer to Figure 37.

1. Read the micrometer in the same way as a stan­dard metric micrometer. This is the initial reading.

2. If a thimble mark aligns exactly with the sleeve
line, reading the vernier scale is not necessary. If
they do not align, read the vernier scale in Step 3.

3. Determine which vernier scale mark aligns ex­actly with one thimble mark. The vernier scale
number is the amount in two-thousandths of a milli­meter to add to the initial reading from Step 1.

Micrometer Adjustment

1

NOTE
If a thimble mark does not align ex­actly with the sleeve line, estimate the
amount between the lines. For accu­rate readings in two-thousandths of a
millimeter (0.002 mm), use a metric
vernier micrometer.

4. Add the readings from Steps 1-3.

Before using a micrometer, check its adjustment

as follows.

1. Clean the anvil and spindle faces.
2A. To check a 0-1 in. or 0-25 mm micrometer:

a. Turnthe thimble until the spindle contacts the

anvil. If the micrometer has a ratchet stop, use
it to ensure that the proper amount of pressure
is applied.

20 CHAPTER ONE

37

38

Vernier scale

Sleeve

Vernier scale

Sleeve

Thimble

Thimble

1. Reading on upper sleeve line

2. Reading on lower sleeve line

3. Thimble is between 0.15 and 0.16
mm on the sleeve line

4. Vernier line coinciding with

thimble line

Total reading

39

4.0 mm

0.5 mm

0.15 mm

0.008 mm

4.658 mm

b. If the adjustment is correct, the 0 mark on the

thimble will align exactly with the 0 mark on
the sleeve line. If the marks do not align, the
micrometer is out of adjustment.

c. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ad-

just the micrometer.
2B. To check a micrometer larger than 1 in. or 25
mm use the standard gauge supplied by the manu­facturer. A standard gauge is a steel block, disc or
rod that is machined to an exact size.

a. Place the standard gauge between the spindle

and anvil, and measure its outside diameter or

length. If the micrometer has a ratchet stop,

use it to ensure that the proper amount of

pressure is applied.

b. If the adjustment is correct, the 0 mark on the

thimble will align exactly with the 0 mark on

the sleeve line. If the marks do not align, the

micrometer is out of adjustment.

c. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ad-

just the micrometer.

Micrometer Care

Micrometers are precision instruments. They
must be used and maintained with great care. Note
the following:

1. Storemicrometers in protectivecases or separate
padded drawers in a toolbox.

2. When in storage, make sure the spindle and anvil
faces do not contact each other or another object. If
they do, temperature changes and corrosion may
damage the contact faces.

3. Do not clean a micrometer with compressed air.
Dirt forced into the tool will cause wear.

4. Lubricate micrometers with WD-40 to prevent
corrosion.

GENERAL INFORMATION 21

40

41

42

themovable post in position.Remove the gauge and
measure the length of the posts. Telescoping gauges
are typically used to measure cylinder bores.

To use a small-bore gauge, select the correct size
gauge for the bore. Carefully insert the gauge into
the bore. Tighten the knurled end of the gauge to
carefully expand the gauge fingers to the limit
within the bore. Do not overtighten the gauge, as
there is no built-in release. Excessive tightening can
damage the bore surface and damage the tool. Re­move the gauge and measure the outside dimension
(Figure40). Small hole gauges are typically used to
measure valve guides.

Dial Indicator

Adial indicator (Figure 41) is agauge with adial
face and needle used to measure variations in di­mensions and movements. Measuring brake rotor
runout is a typical use for a dial indicator.

Dialindicators are available in various ranges and
graduations and with three basic types of mounting
bases: magnetic, clamp, or screw-in stud. When
purchasing a dial indicator, select the magnetic
stand type with a continuous dial.

1

Telescoping and
Small Bore Gauges

Use telescoping gauges (Figure 38) and small

hole gauges (Figure 39) to measure bores. Neither
gauge has a scale for direct readings. An outside mi­crometer must be used to determine the reading.

To use a telescoping gauge, selectthe correct size
gauge for the bore. Compress the movable post and
carefully insert the gauge into the bore. Carefully
move the gauge in the bore to make sure it is cen
tered. Tighten the knurled end of the gauge to hold

Cylinder Bore Gauge

A cylinder bore gauge is similar to a dial indica-

tor. The gauge set shown in Figure42 consists of a
dial indicator, handle, and different length adapters
(anvils) to fit the gauge to various bore sizes. The
bore gauge is used to measure bore size, taper and
out-of-round. When using a bore gauge, follow the
manufacturer’s instructions.

Compression Gauge

Acompression gauge (Figure43) measures com-

bustion chamber (cylinder) pressure, usually in psi
or kg/cm

2

. The gauge adapter is either inserted or
screwed into the spark plug hole to obtain the read­ing. Disable the engine so it will not start and hold
the throttle in the wide-open position when per­forming a compression test. An engine that does not

-

have adequate compression cannot be properly
tuned. See Chapter Three.

22 CHAPTER ONE

43

Multimeter

A multimeter (Figure 44) is an essential tool for

electrical system diagnosis. The voltage function
indicates the voltage applied or available to various
electrical components. The ohmmeter function tests
circuits for continuity, or lack of continuity, and
measures the resistance of a circuit.

Some manufacturers’ specifications for electrical
components are based on results using a specific
test meter. Results may vary if a meter not recom­mend by the manufacturer is used. Such require­ments are noted when applicable.

Ohmmeter (analog) calibration

44

Voltage

Voltage is the electrical potential or pressure in an
electrical circuit and is expressed in volts. The more
pressure (voltage) in a circuit, the more work that
can be performed.

Direct current (DC) voltage means the electricity
flows in one direction. All circuits powered by a
battery are DC circuits.

Alternating current (AC) means that the electric­ity flows in one direction momentarily then
switchesto the opposite direction. Alternator output
is an example of AC voltage. This voltage must be
changed or rectified to direct current to operate in a
battery powered system.

Each time an analog ohmmeter is used or if the

scale is changed, the ohmmeter must be calibrated.

Digital ohmmeters do not require calibration.

1. Makesure the meter battery is in goodcondition.

2. Make sure the meter probes are in good condi­tion.

3. Touch the two probes together and observe the
needle location on the ohms scale.

The needle must align with the 0 mark to obtain

accurate measurements.

4. If necessary, rotate the meter ohms adjust knob
until the needle and 0 mark align.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FUNDAMENTALS

A thorough study of the many types of electrical
systems used in today’s vehicles is beyond the
scope of this manual. However, a basic understand­ing of electrical basics is necessary to perform sim
ple diagnostic tests.

Measuring voltage

Unless otherwise specified, perform all voltage
tests with the electrical connectors attached. When
measuringvoltage, select the meterrange that is one
scale higher than the expected voltage of the circuit
to prevent damage to the meter. To determine the
actual voltage in a circuit, use a voltmeter. To sim­ply check if voltage is present, use a test light.

NOTE
When using a test light, either lead
can be attached to ground.

1. Attach the negative meter test lead to a good
ground (bare metal). Make sure the ground is not in­sulated with a rubber gasket or grommet.

2. Attach the positive meter test lead to the point
being checked for voltage (Figure 45).

3. Turnon the ignition switch. Thetest light should

-

light or the meter should display a reading. The
readingshould be within onevolt of battery voltage.

GENERAL INFORMATION 23

45

Voltmeter

If the voltage is less, there is a problem in the cir­cuit.

Voltage drop test

Resistancecauses voltage to drop. This resistance
can be measured in an active circuitby using avolt­meter to perform a voltage drop test. A voltage drop
test compares the difference between the voltage
available at the start of a circuit to the voltage at the
end of the circuit while the circuit is operational. If
the circuit has no resistance, there will be no voltage
drop. The greater the resistance, the greater the volt­age drop will be. A voltage drop of one volt or more
indicates excessive resistance in the circuit.

1. Connect the positive meter test lead to the elec­trical source (where electricity is coming from).

2. Connect the negative meter test lead to the elec­trical load (where electricity is going). See Figure

46.

3. If necessary, activate the component(s) in the
circuit.

4. Avoltage reading of 1 volt or more indicates ex­cessive resistance in the circuit. A reading equal to
battery voltage indicates an open circuit.

Resistance

46

Voltage drop

Battery

Resistance is measured in an inactive circuit with
an ohmmeter. The ohmmeter sends a small amount
of current into the circuit and measures how diffi­cult it is to push the current through the circuit.

An ohmmeter, although useful, is not always a
good indicator of a circuit’s actual ability under op­erating conditions. This is due to the low voltage
(6-9 volts) that the meter uses to test the circuit. The
voltagein an ignition coil secondary winding can be
several thousand volts. Such high voltage can cause
the coil to malfunction, even though it tests accept­able during a resistance test.

Resistance generally increases with temperature.
Perform all testing with the component or circuit at
room temperature. Resistance tests performed at
high temperatures may indicate high resistance
readings and result in the unnecessary replacement
of a component.

Measuring resistance and continuity testing

CAUTION
Only use an ohmmeter on a circuit
that has no voltage present. The meter
will be damaged if it is connected to a
live circuit. An analog meter must be
calibrated each time it is used or the

scale is changed. See Multimeter in

this chapter.

1

Resistance is the opposition to the flow of elec­tricity within a circuit or component and is mea
sured in ohms. Resistance causes a reduction in
available current and voltage.

A continuity test can determine if the circuit is

complete. This type of test is performed with an

­ohmmeter or a self-powered test lamp.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

24 CHAPTER ONE

2. Attach one test lead (ohmmeter or test light) to
one end of the component or circuit.

3. Attach the other test lead to the opposite end of
the component or circuit (Figure 47).

4. A self-powered test light will come on if the cir­cuit has continuity or is complete. An ohmmeter
will indicate either low or no resistance if the circuit
has continuity. An open circuit is indicated if the
meter displays infinite resistance.

Amperage

Amperage is the unit of measure for the amount
of current within a circuit. Current is the actual flow
of electricity.The higher the current, themore work
that can be performed up to a given point. If the cur­rentflow exceeds the circuit or component capacity,
the system will be damaged.

Measuring amps

An ammeter measures the current flow or amps
ofa circuit (Figure48). Amperage measurement re­quires that the circuit be disconnected and the am­meter be connected in series to the circuit. Always
use an ammeter that can read higher than the antici­pated current flow to prevent damage to the meter.
Connect the red test lead to the electrical source and
the black test lead to the electrical load.

SPECIAL TOOLS

Some of the procedures in this manual require
special tools (Table 9). These are described in the
appropriate chapter and are available from either
the manufacturer or a tool supplier.

In many cases, an acceptable substitute may be
found in an existing tool kit. Another alternative is
tomake the tool. Manyschools with a machineshop
curriculum welcome outside work that can be used
as practical shop applications for students.

BASIC SERVICE METHODS

Most of the procedures in this manual are
straightforward and can be performed by anyone
reasonably competent with tools. However, con
sider personal capabilities carefully before attempt

47

Ohmmeter

Component

ing any operation involving major disassembly of
the engine.

1. Front,in this manual, refersto the front of the ve­hicle. The front of any component is the end closest
tothe front of the vehicle. The left and right sides re­fer to the position of the parts as viewedby the rider
sitting on the seat facing forward.

2. Whenever servicing an engine or suspension
component, secure the vehicle in a safe manner.

3. Tag all similar parts for location and mark all
mating parts for position. Record the number and
thickness of any shims as they are removed. Iden­tify parts by placing them in sealed and labeled
plastic sandwich bags.

4. Tag disconnected wires and connectors with
masking tape and a marking pen. Do not rely on
memory alone.

5. Protect finished surfaces from physical damage
or corrosion. Keep gasoline and other chemicalsoff
painted surfaces.

6. Use penetrating oil on frozen or tight bolts.
Avoid using heat where possible. Heat can warp,
melt or affect the temper of parts. Heat also dam­ages the finish of paint and plastics.

7. When a part is a press fit or requires a special
tool for removal, the information or type of tool is
identified in the text. Otherwise, if a part is difficult
toremove or install, determine the cause before pro­ceeding.

8. To prevent objects or debrisfrom falling intothe
engine, cover all openings.

-

9. Read each procedure thoroughly and compare

-

the illustrations to the actual components before

GENERAL INFORMATION 25

48

Ammeter

Measures
current
flow

Connected
in series

starting the procedure. Perform theprocedure inse­quence.

10. Recommendations are occasionally made to
refer service to a dealership or specialist. In
these cases, the work can be performed more
economically by the specialist than by the home
mechanic.

11. The term replace means to discard a defective
part and replace itwith a new part. Overhaul means
to remove, disassemble, inspect, measure, repair
and/orreplace parts as required to recondition an as­sembly.

12. Some operations require the use of a hydraulic
press. If a press is not available, have these opera­tions performed by ashop equipped with the neces­sary equipment. Do not use makeshift equipment
that may damage the vehicle.

13. Repairs are much faster and easier if the vehi­cle is clean before starting work. Degrease the ve­hicle with a commercial degreaser; follow the
directions on the container for the best results.
Clean allparts with cleaningsolventas theyarere­moved.

CAUTION
Do not direct high-pressure water at
steering bearings, carburetor hoses,
wheel bearings, suspension and elec­trical components, or drive belt. The
water will force the grease out of the
bearings and possibly damage the
seals.

14. If special tools are required, have them avail­able before starting the procedure. When special
tools are required, they will be described at the be­ginning of the procedure.

15. Make diagrams of similar-appearing parts. For
instance, crankcase bolts are often not the same
lengths. Do not rely onmemory alone. It is possible
that carefully laid out parts will become disturbed,
making it difficult to reassemble the components
correctly without a diagram.

16. Make sure all shims and washers are reinstalled
in the same location and position.

17. Whenever rotating parts contact a stationary
part, look for a shim or washer.

18. Use new gaskets if there is any doubt about the
condition of old ones.

19. If self-locking fasteners are used, replace them
with new ones. Do not install standard fasteners in
place of self-locking ones.

20. Use grease to hold small parts in place if they
tend to fall out during assembly. Do not apply
grease to electrical or brake components.

Removing Frozen Fasteners

If a fastener cannot be removed, several methods
may be used to loosen it. First, applypenetrating oil
such as Liquid Wrenchor WD-40. Apply it liberally
and let it penetrate for 10-15 minutes. Rap the fas­tener several times with a small hammer.Do not hit
it hard enough to cause damage. Reapply the pene­trating oil if necessary.

For frozen screws, apply penetrating oil as de­scribed, then insert a screwdriver in the slot and rap
the top of the screwdriver with a hammer. This loos­ens the rust so the screw can be removed in the nor­mal way. If the screw head is too damaged to use
this method, grip the head with locking pliers and
twist the screw out.

Avoid applying heat unless specifically in­structed, as it may melt, warp or remove the temper
from parts.

Removing Broken Fasteners

If the head breaks off a screw or bolt, several
methods are available for removing the remaining
portion. If a large portion of the remainder projects
out, try gripping it with locking pliers. If the pro

1

-

26 CHAPTER ONE

49

Filed

Slotted

jecting portion is too small, file it to fit a wrench or
cut a slot in it to fit a screwdriver (Figure 49).

If the head breaks off flush, use ascrew extractor.
To do this, centerpunch the exact center of the re­maining portion of the screw or bolt. Drill a small
hole in the screw and tap the extractor into the hole.
Back the screw out with a wrench on the extractor
(Figure 50).

Repairing Damaged Threads

Occasionally, threads are stripped through care­lessness or impact damage. Often the threads can be
repaired by running a tap (for internal threads on
nuts) or die (for external threads on bolts) through
the threads (Figure 51). To clean or repair spark
plug threads, use a spark plug tap.

If an internal thread is damaged, it may be neces­saryto install a Helicoil or some other type ofthread
insert. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when
installing their insert.

Ifit is necessary todrill and tap ahole, refer to Ta-
ble 8 for American tap and drill sizes.

50

REMOVING BROKEN

SCREWS AND BOLTS

1. Center punch broken stud 2. Drill hole in stud

3. Tap in screw extractor 4. Remove broken
stud

51

Stud Removal/Installation

A stud removal tool is available from most tool
suppliers. This tool makes theremoval andinstalla­tion of studs easier. If one is not available, thread
two nuts onto the stud and tighten them against each
other. Remove the stud by turning the lower nut
(Figure 52).

1. Measurethe height of the stud above thesurface.

2. Thread the stud removal tool onto the stud and
tighten it, or thread two nuts onto the stud.

3. Remove the stud by turning the stud remover or
the lower nut.

4. Remove any threadlocking compound from the
threaded hole. Clean the threads with an aerosol
parts cleaner.

5. Install the stud removal tool onto the new stud or
thread two nuts onto the stud.

GENERAL INFORMATION 27

52

53

Bearing puller

Removing Hoses

1

When removing stubborn hoses, do not exert ex­cessive force on the hose or fitting. Remove the
hose clamp and carefully insert a small screwdriver
or pick tool between the fitting and hose. Apply a
spray lubricant under the hose and carefully twist
the hose off the fitting. Clean the fitting of any cor­rosion or rubber hose material with a wire brush.
Clean the inside of the hose thoroughly. Do not use
any lubricant when installing the hose (new or old).
Thelubricant may allow the hose to comeoff the fit­ting, even with the clamp secure.

Bearings

Bearings are used in the engine and transmission
assembly to reduce power loss, heat and noise re­sulting from friction. Because bearings are preci­sion parts, they must be maintained by proper
lubrication and maintenance. If a bearing is dam­aged, replace it immediately.When installing a new
bearing, take care to prevent damaging it. Bearing
replacement procedures are included in the individ­ual chapters where applicable; however,use the fol­lowing sections as a guideline.

Spacer

Shaft

Bearing

6. Apply threadlocking compound to the threads of
the stud.

7. Install the stud and tighten with the stud removal
tool or the top nut.

8. Install the stud to the height noted in Step1 or its
torque specification.

9. Remove the stud removal tool or the two nuts.

NOTE
Unless otherwise specified, install
bearings with the manufacturer’s
mark or number facing outward.

Removal

While bearings are normally removed only when
damaged, there may be times when it is necessary to
remove a bearing that is in good condition. How­ever, improper bearing removal will damage the
bearing and maybe the shaft or case half. Note the
following when removing bearings.

1. When using a puller to remove a bearing from a
shaft, take care that the shaft is not damaged. Al­ways place a piece of metal between the end of the
shaft and the puller screw. In addition, place the
puller arms next to the inner bearing race. See Fig-
ure 53.

2. When using a hammer to remove a bearing from
a shaft, do not strike the hammer directly against the
shaft. Instead, use a brass or aluminum rodbetween
the hammer and shaft (Figure 54) and make sure to

28 CHAPTER ONE

54

Spacer

Shaft

Bearing

Blocks

support both bearing races with wooden blocks as
shown.

3. A hydraulic press is the ideal method of bearing
removal. Note the following when using a press:

a. Always support the inner and outer bearing

races with a suitable size wooden or alumi­num ring (Figure 55). If only the outer race is
supported, pressure applied against the balls
and/or the inner race will damage them.

b. Always make sure the press arm (Figure 55)

alignswith the center of the shaft. If the arm is
not centered, it may damage the bearing
and/or shaft.

c. The moment the shaftis free of the bearing, it

will drop to the floor. Secure or hold the shaft
to prevent it from falling.

Installation

1. When installing a bearing in a housing, apply
pressure to the outer bearing race (Figure 56).
When installing a bearing on a shaft,apply pressure
to the inner bearing race (Figure 57).

2. When installing a bearing as described in Step
1, sometypeof driver is required.Never strikethe

55

Press ram

Shaft

Bearing

Spacer

Press bed

56

Bearing

Bearing

Housing

bearing directly with a hammer or the bearing
will be damaged. When installing a bearing,usea
piece of pipe or a driver with a diameter that
matches the bearing race. Figure 58 shows the
correct way to use a socket and hammer to install
a bearing.

3. Step1 describes how to install a bearing in a case
half or over a shaft. However, when installing a
bearing over a shaft and into a housing at the same
time, a tight fit will be required for both outer and
inner bearing races. In this situation, install a spacer
underneaththe driver tool so that pressure is applied
evenly across both races. See Figure 59. If the outer
race is not supported as shown in Figure 59, the
balls will push against the outer bearing race and
damage it.

GENERAL INFORMATION 29

57

Bearing

Shaft

58

Socket

Bearing

Shaft

Interference Fit

1. Follow this procedure when installing a bearing
over a shaft. When a tight fit is required, the bearing
inside diameter will be smaller than the shaft. In this
case, driving the bearing on the shaft using normal
methods may cause bearing damage. Instead, heat
the bearing before installation. Note the following:

a. Secure the shaft so it is ready for bearing in-

stallation.

b. Cleanallresiduesfromthebearingsurfaceofthe

shaft. Remove burrswitha fileor sandpaper.

59

Driver

Spacer

Bearing

Shaft

Housing

c. Fill a suitable pot or beaker with clean min-

eral oil. Place a thermometer rated above
120° C (248° F) in the oil. Support the ther­mometer so that it does not rest onthe bottom
or side of the pot.

d. Remove the bearing from its wrapper and se-

cure it with a pieceof heavywire bent to hold
it in the pot. Hang the bearing in the pot so it
doesnot touch the bottom or sides ofthe pot.

e. Turn the heat on and monitor the thermome-

ter.When the oil temperature rises to approxi­mately 120° C (248° F), remove the bearing
from the pot and quickly install it. If neces­sary, place a socket on the inner bearing race
and tap the bearing into place. As the bearing
chills, it will tighten on the shaft, so installa­tion must be done quickly. Make sure the
bearing is installed completely.

2. Follow this step when installing a bearing in a
housing. Bearings are generally installed in a hous­ingwith a slight interferencefit. Driving the bearing
intothe housing using normal methods may damage
the housing or cause bearing damage. Instead, heat
the housing before the bearing is installed. Note the
following:

CAUTION

Before heating the housing in this pro

­cedure, wash the housing thoroughly
with detergent and water. Rinse and

1

30 CHAPTER ONE

rewash the cases as required to re­move all traces of oil and other chem-

60

ical deposits.

Spring

a. Heat the housing to approximately 212° F

(100° C) in an oven or on a hot plate. An easy
way to check that it is the proper temperature
is to place tiny drops of water on thehousing;
if they sizzle and evaporate immediately, the
temperature is correct. Heat only onehousing

Dust lip

Main
lip

Oil

at a time.

CAUTION
Do not heat the housing with a pro­pane or acetylene torch. Never bring
a flame into contact with the bearing
or housing. The direct heat will de­stroy the case hardening of the bear­ing and will likely warp the housing.

b. Remove the housing from the oven or hot

plate, and hold onto the housing with a
kitchen potholder, heavy gloves or heavy
shop cloth. It is hot!

NOTE
Remove and install the bearings with
a suitable size socket and extension.

c. Hold the housing with the bearing side down

and tap the bearing out. Repeat for all bear­ings in the housing.

d. Before heating the bearing housing, place the

new bearing in a freezer if possible. Chilling a
bearing slightly reduces its outside diameter
while the heated bearing housing assembly is
slightly larger due to heat expansion. This
will make bearing installation easier.

NOTE
Always install bearings with the man­ufacturer’s mark or number facing
outward.

Reinforcement

Seal Replacement

Seals (Figure 60) are used to contain oil, water,

grease or combustion gasses in a housing or shaft.
Improper removal of a seal can damage thehousing
or shaft. Improper installation of the seal can dam­age the seal. Note the following:

1. Prying is generally the easiest and most effective
method of removing a seal from a housing. How­ever, always place a rag underneath the pry tool
(Figure 61) to prevent damage to the housing.

2. Pack waterproof grease in the seal lips before the
seal is installed.

3. In most cases, install seals with the manufac­turer’s numbers or marks face out.

4. Install seals with a socket placed on the outside
of the seal as shown in Figure 62. Drive the seal
squarely into the housing. Never install a seal by
hitting against the top of the seal with a hammer.

e. While the housing is still hot, install the new

bearing(s) into the housing. Install the bear­ings by hand, if possible. If necessary, lightly
tap the bearing(s) into the housing with a
socket placed on the outer bearing race (Fig-
ure 56). Do not install new bearings by driv­ing on the inner-bearing race. Install the
bearing(s) until it seats completely.

STORAGE

Several months of non-use can cause a general
deterioration of the vehicle. This is especially true
in areas of extreme temperaturevariations. Thisde­terioration can be minimized with careful prepara­tion for storage. A properly stored vehicle will be
much easier to return to service.