Frymaster, a member of the Commercial Food Equipment Service Association, recommends using
CFESA Certified Technicians.
www.frymaster.com E-mail: service@frymaster.com
24-Hour Service Hotline 1-800-551-8633
*8196686*
JAN 2013
NOTICE
IF, DURING THE WARRANTY PERIOD, THE CUST OMER USES A PART FOR THIS MANITOW OC
FOOD SERVICE EQUIPMENT OTHER THAN AN UNMODIFIED NEW OR RECYCLED PART
PURCHASED DIRECTLY FROM FRYMASTER DEAN, OR ANY OF ITS FACTORY AUTHORIZED
SERVICERS, AND/OR THE PART BEING USED IS MODIFIED FROM ITS ORIGINAL
CONFIGURATION, THIS WARRANTY WILL BE VOID. FURTHER, FRYMASTER DEAN AND ITS
AFFILIATES WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY CLAIMS, DAMAGES OR EXPENSES INCURRED BY
THE CUSTOMER WHICH ARISE DIRECTLY OR INDIRECTLY, IN WHOLE OR IN PART, DUE TO
THE INSTALLATION OF ANY MODIFIED PART AND/OR PART RECEIVED FROM AN
UNAUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER.
DANGER
Copper wire suitable for at least 167°F (75°C) must be used for power connections.
DANGER
The electrical power supply for this appliance must be the same as indicated on the rating and
serial number plate located on the inside of the fryer door.
DANGER
This appliance must be connected to the voltage and phase as specified on the rating and serial
number plate located on the inside of the fryer door.
DANGER
All wiring connections for this appliance must be made in accordance with the wiring diagrams
furnished with the equipment. Wiring diagrams are located on the inside of the fryer door.
DANGER
Do not store or use gasoline or other flammable vapors and liquids in the vicinity of this or any
other appliance.
WARNING
Do not attach accessories to this fryer unless fryer is secured from tipping. Personal injury may
result.
WARNING
Frymaster fryers equipped with legs are for permanent installations. Fryers fitted with legs
must be lifted during movement to avoid damage and possible bodily injury. For a moveable or
portable installation, Frymaster optional equipment casters must be used.
Questions? Call 1-800-551-8633 or email at service@frymaster.com.
WARNING
Do not use water jets to clean this equipment.
WARNING
This equipment is intended for indoor use only. Do not install or operate this equipment in
outdoor areas.
i
DANGER
Adequate means must be provided to limit the movement of this appliance without depending
on or transmitting stress to the electrical conduit. A restraint kit is provided with the fryer. If
the restraint kit is missing contact your local KES.
DANGER
Prior to movement, testing, maintenance and any repair on your Frymaster fryer, disconnect all
electrical power from the fryer.
CAUTIONARY STATEMENTS .............................................................................................................................. i
ELECTRICAL POWER SPECIFICATIONS ........................................................................................................ ii
CHAPTER 1: Service Procedures
1.1 General ................................................................................................................................................... 1-1
1.2 Replacing a Controller ........................................................................................................................... 1-1
Before performing any maintenance on your Frymaster fryer, disconnect the fryer from the electrical
power supply.
To ensure the safe and efficient operation of the fryer and hood, the electrical plug
must be fully engaged and locked in its pin and sleeve socket.
When electrical wires are disconnected, it is recommended that they be marked in such a way as to
facilitate re-assembly.
1.2 Replacing the Controller
1. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply.
2. Open the control panel by removing the screws on the bottom of the bezel. Carefully lower the
bezel.
3. Remove the two screws from the upper corners of the controller. The controller is hinged at the
bottom and will swing open from the top.
4. Unplug the wiring harnesses from the connectors on the back of the controller, marking their
position for reassembly, and disconnect the grounding wires from the terminals. Remove the
controller by lifting it from the hinged slots in the control panel frame.
WARNING
Ground Wire Terminal
Communication Wires
Ground Wire Terminal
20-Pin Connecto
Locator Wire
5. Install the replacement controller. Reverse steps 1 thru 4.
6. Setup the controller following the instructions on page 4-3 in the Installation and Operation
manual. Setup MUST
be performed after replacement.
7. Once setup is complete on all replaced controllers, reset all control power following the
instructions in section 1.11.7 on page 1-19 to readdress the new 3000 controller. Check software
version and if necessary update the software. If a software update was necessary, follow the
instructions to update the software in section 1.13 on page 1-26.
1.3 Replacing Component Box Components
1. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply.
1-1
2. Open the control panel by removing the screws on the bottom of the bezel. Carefully lower the
bezel.
3. Remove the two screws from the upper corners of the control panel and allow the control panel to
swing down.
4. Unplug the wiring harnesses and disconnect the grounding wires from the terminals on the back of
the controller. Remove the control panel assembly by lifting it from the hinge slots in the control
panel frame.
5. Disconnect the wiring from the component to be replaced, being sure to make a note of where each
wire was connected.
6. Dismount the component to be replaced and install the new component, being sure that any
required spacers, insulation, washers, etc. are in place.
NOTE: If more room to work is required, the control panel frame assembly may be removed by
removing the hex-head screws, which secure it to the fryer cabinet (see illustration below). If this
option is chosen, all control panel assemblies must be removed per steps 1 and 2 above. The cover
plate, on the lower front of the component box, may also be removed to allow additional access if
desired. Removing the component box itself from the fryer is not recommended due to the difficulty
involved in disconnecting and reconnecting the oil-return valve rods, which pass through openings
in the component box.
Remove these three
screws at each end.
Remove these two screws
from the center supports.
Removing the Control Panel Frame and Top Cap Assembly
7. Reconnect the wiring disconnected in step 5, referring to your notes and the wiring diagrams on
the fryer door to ensure that the connections are properly made. Also, verify that no other wiring
was disconnected accidentally during the replacement process.
8. Reverse steps 1 through 4 to complete the replacement and return the fryer to service.
1-2
1.4 Replacing a High-Limit Thermostat
1.Drain the frypots into a Shortening Disposal Unit (SDU) or other appropriate METAL container.
DANGER
DO NOT drain more than one full frypot into the SDU at one time.
2. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply and reposition it to gain access to the rear of
the fryer.
3. Remove the screws from the bottom of the lower back panel attaching the contactor plug guards.
4. Remove each of the guards.
5. Remove the four screws from both the left and right sides of the lower back panel.
6. Locate the high-limit that is being replaced and follow the two-black wires to the 12-pin connector
C-6. Note where the leads are connected prior to removing them from the connector. Unplug the
12-pin connector C-6 and using a pin-pusher push the pins of the high-limit out of the connector.
7. Carefully unscrew the high-limit thermostat to be replaced.
8. Apply Loctite
™
PST 567 or equivalent sealant to the threads of the replacement and screw it
securely into the frypot.
9. Insert the leads into the 12-pin connector C-6 (see illustration below). For full-vat units or the
right half of a dual-vat unit the leads go into positions 1 and 2 of the connector. For the left half of
a dual-vat unit, the leads go into positions 7 and 8. In either case, polarity does not matter.
10. Reconnect the 12-pin connecting plug C-6. Use wire ties to secure any loose wires.
11. Reinstall the back panels, contactor plug guards, reposition the fryer under the exhaust hood, and
reconnect it to the electrical power supply to return the fryer to service.
1.5 Replacing a Temperature Probe
1. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply and reposition it to gain access to the rear of
the fryer.
2. Remove each of the guards.
3. Remove the four screws from both sides of the lower back panel. Then remove the two screws on
both the left and right sides of the back of the tilt housing. Lift the tilt housing straight up to
remove from the fryer.
1-3
4. Locate the red and white wires of the temperature probe to be replaced. Note where the leads are
connected prior to removing them from the connector. Unplug the 12-pin connector C-6 and using
a pin-pusher push the pins of the temperature probe out of the connector.
5. Raise the element and remove the securing probe bracket and metal tie wraps that secure the probe
to the element (see illustration below). Remove the ground clip on the probe shield.
6. Gently pull on the temperature probe and grommet, pulling the wires up the rear of the fryer and
through the element tube assembly.
7. Insert the replacement temperature probe (wires first) into the tube assembly ensuring that the
grommet is in place. Secure the probe to the elements using the bracket which was removed in
Step 5 and the metal tie wraps which were included in the replacement kit.
8. Route the probe wires out of the tube assembly following the element wires down the back of the
fryer through the Heyco bushings to the 12-pin connector C-6. Secure the wires to the sheathing
with wire ties. Attach the ground clip.
9. Insert the temperature probe leads into the 12-pin connector C-6 (see illustration below). For full-
vat units or the right half of a dual-vat unit the red (or yellow) lead goes into position 3 and the
white lead into position 4 of the connector. For the left half of a dual-vat unit, the red (or yellow)
lead goes into position 9 and the white lead into position 10. NOTE: Right and left refer to the
fryer as viewed from the front.
10. Secure any loose wires with wire ties, making sure there is no interference with the movement of
the springs. Rotate the elements up and down, making sure movement is not restricted and that the
wires are not pinched.
11. Reinstall the tilt housing, back panels and contactor plug guards. Reposition the fryer under the
exhaust hood, and reconnect it to the electrical power supply to return the fryer to service.
1-4
1.6 Replacing a Heating Element
1. Perform steps 1-5 of section 1.5, Replacing a Temperature Probe.
2. Disconnect the wire harness containing the probe wiring. Using a pin pusher, disconnect the probe
wires from the 12-pin connector C-6.
3. In the rear of the fryer, disconnect the 6-pin connector for the left element (as viewed from the
front of the fryer) or the 9-pin connector for the right element from the contactor box. Press in
on the tabs on each side of the connector while pulling outward on the free end to extend the
connector and release the element leads (see photo below). Pull the leads out of the connector and
out of the wire sleeving.
4. Raise the element to the full up position and support the elements.
5. Remove the hex head screws and nuts that secure the element to the tube assembly and pull the
element out of the frypot. NOTE: The nuts inside the tube can be held and removed using the RE
element tube nut spanner, PN# 2304028. Full-vat elements consist of two dual-vat elements
clamped together. For full-vat units, remove the element clamps before removing the nuts and
screws that secure the element to the tube assembly.
6. If applicable, recover the probe bracket and probe from the element being replaced and install
them on the replacement element. Install the replacement element in the frypot, securing it with the
nuts and screws removed in Step 5 to the tube assembly. Ensure the gasket is between the tube and
element assembly.
7. Route the element leads through the element tube assembly and into the wire sleeving to prevent
chafing. Ensure that the wire sleeving is routed back through the Heyco bushings, keeping it clear
from the lift springs. Also ensure that the wire sleeving extends into the tube assembly, protecting
the wires. Press the pins into the connector in accordance with the diagram on the following page,
and then close the connector to lock the leads in place. NOTE: It is critical that the wires be
routed through the sleeving to prevent chafing.
1-5
Index Marker marks
Position 1
14253
14253
6
5L 4L6L1L2L3L
6
789
5
6
4R
R
R
2
1R
3R
R
8. Reconnect the element connector ensuring that the latches lock.
9. Insert the temperature probe leads into the 12-pin wiring harness connector (see illustration
below). For full-vat units or the right half of a dual-vat unit, the red lead goes into position 3 and
the white into position 4. For the left half of a dual-vat unit, the red lead goes into position 9 and
the white into position 10. NOTE: Right and left refer to the fryer as viewed from the front.
10. Reconnect the 12-pin connector C-6 of the wiring harness disconnected in Step 2.
11. Lower the element onto the basket rack.
12. Reinstall the tilt housing, back panels and contactor plug guard. Reposition the fryer under the
exhaust hood, and reconnect it to the electrical power supply.
1.7 Replacing Contactor Box Components
1. If replacing a contactor box component, remove the filter pan and lid from the unit.
2. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply.
3. Remove the two screws securing the cover of the contactor box. The contactor boxes above the
filter pan are accessed by sliding under the fryer. They are located to the left and right above the
guide rails (see photo below). The contactor boxes for frypots not over the filter pan are accessed
by opening the fryer door directly under the affected frypot (see photo on following page).
1-6
Remove two screws to access contactor box components above the filter
pan
.
4. The contactors and relays are held on by threaded pin studs so that only removal of the nut is
required to replace the component.
5. After performing necessary service, reverse steps 1-4 to return the fryer to operation.
Left and right views of mechanical contactor box components.
1.8 Replacing a Frypot
1. Drain the frypot into the filter pan or, if replacing a frypot over the filter system, into a Shortening
Disposal Unit (SDU) or other appropriate METAL container. If replacing a frypot over the filter
system, remove the filter pan and lid from the unit.
DANGER
DO NOT drain more than one full frypot into the SDU at one time.
2. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply and reposition it to gain access to both the
front and rear.
3. Open the control panel by removing the two screws on the bottom of the bezel. Carefully lower the
bezel.
4. Remove the two screws from the upper corners of the control panels and allow them to swing
down (see photo on page 1-1).
1-7
5. Unplug the wiring harnesses and ground wires from the backs of the controllers. Remove the
controllers by lifting them from the hinge slots in the control panel frame.
6. Remove the screws from the bottom of the lower back panel attaching the contactor plug guards.
7. Remove each of the guards
8. Remove the tilt housing and back panels from the fryer. The tilt housing must be removed first in
order to remove the upper back panel.
9. To remove the tilt housing, remove the hex head screws from the rear edge of the housing. The
housing can be lifted straight up and off the fryer.
10. Remove the control panel by removing the screws on both sides.
11. Loosen the component boxes by removing the screws, which secure them in the cabinet.
12. Remove the top cap by removing the nuts at each end that secure it to the cabinetry.
13. Remove the hex head screw that secures the front of the frypot to the cabinet cross brace.
14. Remove the top-connecting strip that covers the joint with the adjacent frypot.
15. Unscrew the nut located on the front of each section of drain tube, and remove the tube assembly
from the fryer.
16. Remove the covers from the drain safety switch(es) and disconnect the wiring at the switch(es).
17. Disconnect any auto top-off sensors if equipped and wiring.
18. At the rear of the fryer, unplug the 12-pin connector C-6 and, using a pin pusher, disconnect the
high-limit thermostat leads.
19. Disconnect the oil return and top off flexline(s).
20. Raise the elements to the “up” position and disconnect the element springs.
21. Remove the machine screws and nuts that secure the element tube assembly to the frypot.
Carefully lift the element assembly from the frypot and secure it to the cross brace on the rear of
the fryer with wire ties or tape.
22. Carefully lift the frypot from the fryer and place it upside down on a stable work surface.
23. Recover the drain valve(s), oil return flexline connection fitting(s), auto top-off sensors if equipped
and high-limit thermostat(s) from the frypot. Clean the threads and apply Loctite
™
PST 567 or
equivalent sealant to the threads of the recovered parts and install them in the replacement frypot.
24. Carefully lower the replacement frypot into the fryer. Reinstall the hex head screw removed in
step 9 to attach the frypot to the fryer.
25. Position the element tube assembly in the frypot and reinstall the machine screws and nuts
removed in step 21.
1-8
26. Reconnect the oil return and auto top off flexlines to the frypot, and replace aluminum tape, if
necessary, to secure heater strips to the flexlines.
27. Insert the high-limit thermostat leads disconnected in step 18 (see illustration on page 1-3 for pin
positions).
28. Reconnect the auto top-off sensors.
29. Reconnect the drain safety switch wiring to the switch(es) in accordance with the diagram below
then reinstall the switch covers.
30. Reinstall the drain tube assembly.
31. Reinstall the top connecting strips, top cap, tilt housing, back panels and contactor plug guards.
32. Reinstall controllers in the control panel frame and reconnect the wiring harnesses and ground
wires.
33. Reposition the fryer under the exhaust hood and reconnect it to the electrical power supply.
1.9 Built-in Filtration System Service Procedures
1.9.1 Filtration System Problem Resolution
One of the most common causes of filtration problems is placing the filter paper on the bottom of the
filter pan rather than over the filter screen.
CAUTION
Ensure that filter screen is in place prior to filter paper placement and filter pump
operation. Improper screen placement is the primary cause of filtration system
malfunction.
Whenever the complaint is “the pump is running, but no oil is being filtered,” check the installation of
the filter paper, and ensure that the correct size is being used. While you are checking the filter paper,
verify that the O-rings on the pick-up tube of the filter pan are in good condition. A missing or worn
O-ring allows the pump to take in air and decrease its efficiency.
If the pump motor overheats, the thermal overload will trip and the motor will not start until it is reset.
If the pump motor does not start, press the red reset switch (button) located on the rear of the motor.
If the pump starts after resetting the thermal overload switch, then something is causing the motor to
overheat. A major cause of overheating is when several frypots are filtered sequentially, overheating
the pump and motor. Allow the pump motor to cool at least 30 minutes before resuming operation.
Pump overheating can be caused by:
1-9
Solidified shortening in the pan or filter
Sediment Particle
lines, or
Attempting to filter unheated oil or
shortening (cold oil and shortening are
Oil Flow
more viscous, overloading the pump
motor and causing it to overheat).
If the motor runs but the pump does not return
oil, there is a blockage in the pump. Incorrectly
sized or installed paper will allow food particles
and sediment to pass through the filter pan and
Sediment Particle
Up for reverse
into the pump. When sediment enters the pump,
the gears bind, causing the motor to overload,
again tripping the thermal overload. Shortening
that has solidified in the pump will also cause it
to seize, with the same result.
Down for forward
A pump seized by debris or hard shortening can
usually be freed by manually moving the gears
with a screwdriver or other instrument.
Disconnect power to the filter system, remove the input plumbing from the pump, and use a
screwdriver to manually turn the gears.
● Turning the pump gears in reverse will release a hard particle.
● Turning the pump gears forward will push softer objects and solid shortening through the pump
and allow free movement of the gears.
Incorrectly sized or installed paper/pads will also allow food particles and sediment to pass through
and clog the suction tube on the bottom of the filter pan. Particles large enough to block the suction
tube may indicate that the crumb tray is not being used. Pan blockage can also occur if shortening is
left in the pan and allowed to solidify. Blockage removal can be accomplished by forcing the item out
with an auger or drain snake. Compressed air or other pressurized gases should not be used to force
out the blockage.
1.9.2 Replacing the Filter Motor, Filter Pump, and Related Components
1. Remove the filter pan and lid from the unit. Drain the frypots into a Shortening Disposal Unit
(SDU) or other appropriate metal container.
DANGER
DO NOT drain more than one full frypot into the SDU at one time.
2. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply and reposition it to gain access to both the
front and rear.
1-10
3. Disconnect the flexline running to the oil-return manifold at the rear of the fryer as well as the
pump suction flexline at the end of the filter pan connection (see photo below). On some models a
third flexline may need to be disconnected.
Disconnect flexlines indicated by the arrows.
4. Loosen the nut and bolt that secures the bridge to the oil-return manifold.
5. Remove the cover plate from the front of the motor and disconnect the motor wires.
6. Unplug the pump motor assembly 6-pin connector C-2.
7. Remove the two nuts and bolts which secure the front of the bridge to the cross brace and carefully
slide the bridge rearward off the cross brace until its front end can be lowered to the floor. Undo
the single nut holding it in place in back. Be careful not to let the rear of the bridge slip off the
manifold at this point.
8. Get a good grip on the bridge, carefully pull it forward off the oil-return manifold, and lower the
entire assembly to the floor. Once on the floor, pull the assembly out the front of the fryer.
9. When required service has been completed, reverse steps 3-8 to reinstall the bridge. NOTE: The
black motor wires go on the top terminal, the white on the bottom. The red/black heater tape wires
go into position 3 and the violet/white wires go into position 6 (see illustration below).
10. Reconnect the unit to the electrical power supply, and verify that the pump is functioning correctly
(i.e., when a filter handle is placed in the ON position, the motor should start and there should be
strong suction at the intake fitting and outflow at the rear flush port.)
1-11
11. When proper operation has been verified, reinstall the back panels and the filter pan and lid.
12. Reposition the fryer under the exhaust hood and reconnect it to the electrical power supply, if
necessary to return the fryer to service.
1.9.3 Replacing the Transformer or Filter Relay
Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply. Remove the left controller from the fryer to
expose the interior of the left component box. The transformer and relay on the left are located as
shown in the illustration below. NOTE: The right component box is identical to the left except that
the transformer and relay on the left side are not present. Once replaced, reconnect the power.
When replacing a filter relay in the left component box, ensure the 24VAC relay (8070670) is used on
208-240V units and 8070012 is used on 120V units. This relay is the same relay used in the RE
fryers.
1.10 Basket Lift Service Procedures
OCF30™ Series electric fryers may be equipped with automatic basket lifts. Basket lifts always come
in pairs, although each operates independently.
A modular basket lift (illustrated on the following page) is a self-contained sub-assembly consisting
of a pair of toothed rods, which support removable basket lift arms, a pair of reversible-drive gear
motors, and four microswitches. The gear motors engage the teeth of the rods, moving them up or
down depending upon the motors’ direction of rotation. The microswitches at the upper and lower
limits of movement stop the motors when the basket is in the full up or full down position.
Timing circuitry in the controller initiates and stops basket lift operation depending upon the variables
programmed by the operator. When the product button is pressed, the timing circuitry activates a coil
in the basket lift relay to supply power to the lower microswitch. The microswitches stop the motor at
the lift’s upper and lower travel limits and reverse the direction of current flow thus reversing the
motor direction.
When the product button is pushed on the controller, current flows through a coil in the basket lift
relay, causing the lower circuit to be activated. The basket lift lowers, closing the normally open
upper-micro-switch. When the downward-moving rod opens the lower normally closed microswitch,
the power to the motor ceases to flow. When the controller times out, the current to the relay coil is
cut, allowing the upper circuit to be activated. The basket lift rises and re-closes the lower
1-12
microswitch. When the basket lift rod clears the upper microswitch, the microswitch reopens, power
to the circuit is cut, and the motor stops. Pushing the product button restarts the cycle.
Problems with the basket lift can be grouped into three categories:
● Binding/jamming problems
● Motor and gear problems
● Electronic problems
100-120V Configuration
208-250V Configuration
Binding and Jamming Issues
Noisy, jerky or erratic movement of the lifts is usually due to lack of lubrication of the rods and their
bushings. Apply a light coat of Lubriplate® or similar lightweight white grease to the rod and
bushings to correct the problem.
With the modular basket lift, another possible cause of binding is improper positioning of the motor,
which prevents the gear from correctly engaging the teeth in the rod. To correct the problem, loosen
the screws that hold the motor in place and move it forward or backward until the rod has just enough
slack to be rotated slightly.
Motor and Gear Issues
With the modular basket lift, the most likely problem to be encountered in this category is erratic
motion of the lift due to a worn drive gear. Failure to keep the lift rod and bushings properly
lubricated will cause unnecessary wear of the gear. The problem is corrected by replacing the worn
gear.
If the lift cycles correctly but fails to remain in the up position (i.e., goes up, but then slowly settles
back down into the frypot), the problem is a failed motor brake. A failed motor brake cannot be
repaired and requires replacement of the motor itself.
If power is reaching the motor but the motor fails to run, the motor is burned out and must be replaced.
1-13
Electronic Issues
Within this category are problems associated with the relays, microswitches, capacitors, resistors,
interface board, wiring, and controls. The most common problem in this category is a lift that
continuously travels up and down. This is usually caused by a microswitch that is out of adjustment.
Troubleshooting the electronics of a modular basket lift is simply a process of verifying current flow
through the individual components up to and including the motor. Using a multimeter set to the 250
VAC range, check the connections on both sides of the component for the presence of the applied line
voltage. The schematic below and the wiring diagram on page 1-27 and 1-28 can identify the
components and wiring connection points.
1.11 ATO (Automatic Top-off) Service Procedures
The automatic top-off system is activated when the oil level falls below a sensor in the rear of the
frypot. The signal is sent to the ATO board to engage the solenoid to the frypot and turn on the ATO
pump. The pump draws oil from the JIB (Jug In Box) to a port in the rear of the frypot. Once the oil
level has satisfied the sensor, the pump and solenoid turn off.
The ATO board is located inside the box, behind the JIB (see Figure 1).
The power for the ATO board is supplied from the right hand
component box. The power passes through the transformer inside the
ATO box to the board.
Figure 1
1-14
1.11.1 ATO (Automatic Top-off) Troubleshooting
Problem Probable Causes Corrective Action
A. JIB out of oil
B. Supply line from JIB is clogged.
C. Probe temperature lower than setpoint.
D. Temperature in supply line or JIB is too
low.
Frypots won’t top off.
E. ATO board power loss
F. Failed solenoid.
G. ATO pump failed or over tightened.
H. Failed transformer/harness.
I. Failed ATO board.
J. Top-off manifold solenoid failed closed.
Controllerdisplays
TOPOFF OIL
EMPTY / CONFIRM
Frypot tops off cold.
Top off system out of oil.
Incorrect setpoint
A. J5 connection unplugged
No power to ATO board
B. Fuse blown
C. Transformer malfunction
A. Filter error exists.
One vat doesn’t top off.
B. Pump, loose connection, RTD or ATO
issue.
A. Ensure the JIB is not out of oil and
supply line is in the JIB. Replace JIB
and press the button when
prompted to reset top off system.
B. Remove supply line from pump and
blow air through line towards JIB.
C. Check to see that fryer is heating.
Fryer temperature must be at least
300°F (149°C). Check probe
resistance. If probe is bad, replace the
probe.
D. Ensure oil is above 70°F (21°C).
E. Power to the ATO board has been cut
off. Restore power to the board and
switch all controllers off and on again
to readdress system.
F. Check solenoid to see if functioning
properly.
G. If the solenoid is working, ensure that
the screws on the bottom of the pump
are not too tight. Loosen the screws.
If loosening the screws doesn’t fix the
problem, replace the pump.
H. Ensure transformer in ATO box is
functioning properly. Check power
from transformer to ATO board.
Ensure all harnesses are plugged
securely into place.
I. Check for proper voltages using the
pin position chart found on page 1-17.
If ATO found defective, replace ATO
board.
J. A pressure switch opens in the pump
with excessive pressure in the top-off
manifold, shutting down the pump.
Clear or replace solenoid.
Fill top off system with oil and press the
(CONFIRM) button.
Ensure setpoint is correct.
A. Check to ensure J5 on front of ATO
board is fully locked into connector.
B. Ensure fuse below right control box is
not blown and fuse on the right side
of ATO box is not blown.
C. Check that proper voltage is present
at transformer.
A. Clear filter error properly.
B. Check ATO pump, wire connections,
RTD and ATO board.
1-15
Problem Probable Causes Corrective Action
A. Check power to the pump. If the
pump is hot, the solenoid has probably
failed.
B. Ensure all wiring harnesses are
securely connected to ATO board and
solenoids.
A. Ensure wires are wired correctly.
B. Switch flexlines to correct vat.
One vat tops off but
other vats fail to top off.
Incorrect vat tops off.
A. Failed solenoid
B. Loose wire connection.
A. Wired incorrectly.
B. Flexlines connected to wrong vat.
A. Ensure fuse on right side of ATO box
is secure and good. If the controller
above the ATO box is missing power
check the fuse below the component
box.
B. With the controller OFF, press TEMP
3000 displays
SERVICE
REQUIRED – ATO
BOARD
A. Loose or bad fuse
B. Bad Connection
C. ATO Board power loss
button and ensure the ATO software
version appears. If not, the
connection between the ATO and the
controller may be bad. Ensure the 6pin CAN connectors are tight
between controller (J6 and J7) and
ATO (J9 or J10) boards.
C. Power to the ATO board has been cut
off. Ensure there is correct voltage to
the ATO transformer. Restore power
to the board and clear any service
required errors.
1.11.2 Testing ATO RTD probes.
The controller features a quick way to compare the temperature of the ATO RTD to the vat
temperature. This is useful for diagnosing ATO issues.
With the controller OFF, press and hold the TEMP button. The controller will display AIF and ----followed by ATO and current resistance temperature. Ignore the AIF display. Compare the resistance
of the ATO probe against the controller reading. If the values differ greatly a harness issue may exist.
1-16
1.11.3 ATO (Automatic Top-Off) Board Pin Positions and Harnesses
Pin
Connector From/To Harness #
8075161
Solenoids
(4 or 5 battery)
Top Off Pump Relay
J8
J4 (Rear) /
J5 (Front)
J3 - Vat 5&6
J2 - Vat 3&4
J1 - Vat 1&2
J6
J10
J9 3000 J7 8074646
JIB Reset Switch
Solenoids
(4 or 5 battery)
Top Off Pump Relay
JIB Reset Switch
Transformer 8074553
ATO RTD
Network Resistor
(pins 2 & 3)
or to next ATO Board (4
& 5 vat units)
8075162-
8075161
8075162-
1080501 (FV)
1080502 (DV)
8074552
# Function Voltage
1 Output DV - Vat #1
2 Output FV - Vat #1
3 Output DV - Vat #2
4 Output FV - Vat #2
5 Output DV - Vat #3
6 Output FV - Vat #3
7 Top Off Pump
8 JIB Reset
1.11.4 Replacing the ATO Board, ATO Pump Relay or Transformer
Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power
supply. Locate the ATO box (see Figure 1 on
page 14), behind the JIB (Jug In Box). Remove
the cover to expose the transformer and ATO
board (see Figure 2). Mark and unplug any
wires or harnesses. Replace the defective
component and reattach all wires or harnesses.
Replace the cover. Once replaced, reconnect the
power. CYCLE POWER TO ENTIRE FRYER SYSTEM. See section 1.11.7 on page
1-19 to reset control power. Check software
version and if necessary update the software. If
Figure 2
a software update is necessary, follow the
instructions to update the software in section 1.13. Remove and restore power to ALL controllers
after power has been restored to the ATO board. Press the TEMP button on one of the M3000
controllers, with the controller in the OFF position, to verify software version of the ATO. If the
version is not visible, the ATO may not be connected properly.
1.11.5 Replacing the ATO Pump
Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power
supply. Locate the ATO pump (see Figure 3),
behind the ATO box. Mark and unplug any wires
or harnesses. Press up from the bottom on the
quick disconnects to release the plumbing (see
Figure 4). The plumbing can be pulled from the
pump. Loosen the four nuts attaching the pump
to the pump tray. Replace the defective
component and reverse above steps. Once
replaced, reconnect the power.
Figure 3 Figure 4
1.11.6 Replacing the ATO Solenoids
Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply. Locate the top off manifold in the rear of the
fryer. The top off manifold is the smaller of the two manifolds. The solenoids are attached to the
manifold (see Figure 5). Mark and unplug any wires. Replace the defective component and reattach
all wires or harnesses. Once replaced, reconnect the power.
Top off
manifold
Figure 5
Solenoid
1-18
1.11.7 Control Power Reset Switch
The control power reset switch is a momentary
rocker switch located behind the control box,
(see Figures 6 and 7) above the JIB, which
resets all power to all the controllers and
boards in the fryer. It is necessary to reset all
power after replacing any controller or board.
Press and hold the switch for at least ten
seconds when resetting the control power to
ensure power has sufficiently drained from
boards.
Figure 6 Figure 7 (Rear view of Control Box)
1.12 3000 Controller Service Procedures
1.12.1 3000 Controller Troubleshooting
Problem Probable Causes Corrective Action
A. Controller not turned on.
B. No power to the fryer.
C. Power switch turned off.
No Display on
Controller.
D. Loose fuse holder.
E. Controller has failed.
F. Damaged controller wiring harness.
G. Power supply component or interface
board has failed.
3000 display shows
filter busy.
A. Another filtration cycle is still in
process.
A. Press the ON/OFF switch to turn
the controller on.
B. Verify controller power cord is
plugged in and that circuit breaker
is not tripped.
C. Some fryers have a rocker power
switch inside the cabinet below the
controller. Ensure the switch is
turned on.
D. Ensure fuse holder is screwed in
properly.
E. Swap the controller with a
controller known to be good. If
controller functions, replace the
controller.
F. Swap with a harness known to be
good. If controller functions,
replace the harness.
G. If any component in the power
supply system (including the
transformer and interface board)
fail, power will not be supplied to
the controller and it will not
function.
A. Wait until the previous filtration
cycle ends to start another filtration
cycle. This may take up to one
minute. If filter busy is still
displayed with no activity, remove
and restore ALL power to the fryer.
3000 display shows
RECOVERY
FAULT.
Recovery time exceeded maximum time
limit for two or more cycles.
1-19
Silence the alarm by pressing the
button. Check that fryer is heating
properly. Maximum recovery for an
electric fryer is 1:40.
Problem Probable Causes Corrective Action
Fryers using the 3000 controller can
toggle between F° to C° by pressing the
button until Main Menu changing to
Product setup is displayed. Press to
3000 display is in
wrong temperature
scale (Fahrenheit or
Celsius).
3000 displays
SERVICE
REQUIRED followed
by the error.
Controller displays
CHANGE FILTER
PAPER?
3000 display shows
hot-hi-1.
3000 display shows
HI-LIMIT.
3000 display shows
temperature
alternating with
MLT-CYCL.
3000 display shows
low temp
alternating with
temperature.
Controller displays
lo or LOw temp.
3000 display shows
low temp,
heating
indicator cycles on and
off normally but fryer
does not heat.
Incorrect display option programmed.
An error has occurred.
Daily filter paper change prompt has
occurred.
Frypot temperature is more than 410ºF
(210ºC) or, in CE countries, 395ºF
(202ºC).
Controller in high-limit test mode.
Frypot temperature is below 180°F (82°C).
Frypot temperature is between 180°F
(82°C) and 315°F (157°C).
Frypot temperature has dropped more than
21ºF (12ºC) for CM3.5 or 40°F (17°C) for
3000 controllers below setpoint in idle
mode or 45°F (25°C) in cook mode.
A. Failed controller.
B. Damaged controller wiring harness.
scroll to Tech Mode and press . Enter
1658. Press the scan button. The
controller displays OFF. Turn the
controller on to check temperature. If
the desired scale is not displayed,
repeat.
Fryers using the CM3.5 should refer to
the separate Fryer Controllers User’s
Manual.
Press YES to silence alarm. The error
is displayed three times. See list of
issues in section 1.12.4. Fix issue. The
controller displays SYSTEM ERROR FIXED? YES/NO.
Press YES. Pressing NO will allow
the fryer to cook but the error will be
redisplayed every 15 minutes.
Press (YES), follow prompts and
change the filter paper.
This in an indication of a malfunction in
the temperature control circuitry,
including a failure of the high-limit
thermostat.
This is displayed only during a test of
the high-limit circuit and indicates that
the high-limit has opened properly.
This display is normal when the fryer is
first turned on while in the melt cycle
mode. To bypass the melt cycle press
and hold the EXIT COOL button for
three seconds. EXIT MELT
alternating with YES/NO is displayed.
Press the YES button.
This display is normal when the fryer is
heating and out of melt cycle until the
temperature reaches ±2° of setpoint.
This display is normal for a short while
if a large batch of frozen product is
added to the frypot or if the fryer is not
heating properly.
A. Replace controller.
B. Replace controller wiring harness.
1-20
Problem Probable Causes Corrective Action
3000 display shows
TEMP PROBE
FAILURE.
3000 display shows
PROBE FAILURE
with alarm sounding.
Controller will not go
into program mode or
some buttons do not
actuate.
3000 display shows HI
2 BAD.
3000 display shows
HEATING
FAILURE with
alarm sounding.
Heating indicator is
on, but fryer is not
heating.
3000 display shows
HEATING
FAILURE and alarm
sounds, but fryer
operates normally
(false alarm).
3000 display shows
CLOSE DRAIN
VALVE.
3000 display shows
software for only 3000
or ATO board.
3000 display shows
ERROR RM
SDCRD
3000 display shows
CALL TECH
Problem with the temperature measuring
circuitry including the probe.
Damaged controller wiring harness or
connector.
Failed controller. Replace controller
This indicates a problem within the
temperature probe circuitry. Check
resistance of probe, if faulty replace
probe.
Swap the controller wiring harness with
one known to be good. If problem is
corrected replace harness.
This is displayed only during a test of
Controller in high-limit test mode.
Failed controller, failed interface board or
open high limit thermostat.
the high-limit circuit and indicates that
the high-limit has failed.
Check high limit thermostat, interface
board and controller.
Failed controller.
Replace controller.
Drain valve is open or switch is out of
adjustment or failed.
Loose or damaged harness
Defective SD Card Replace card with another card.
Typically shown during software update.
Also may be that parameter data has been
corrupted or lost.
Ensure all drain valves are completely
closed and that microswitches are
adjusted and working.
Check that all harnesses between 3000’s
and ATO are secure and no pins are
pushed out or broken.
Press the FILTER button to bypass and
continue.
1-21
Loading...
+ 58 hidden pages
You need points to download manuals.
1 point = 1 manual.
You can buy points or you can get point for every manual you upload.