Ford AX4S AXODE Rebuild Procedures Ford AX4S AXODE Rebuild Procedures

Ford AX4S

Rebuild Procedures

Written by: Clifford McCormick

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

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Program Introduction…

The Ford AX4S has been with us now for well over a decade, and this unit has quickly become one of the most widely used late-model Ford full-sized vehicle transaxles. Although this transaxle is not a relatively new design, there may be parts of the rebuild process that you are not very familiar with, or you may be new to this particular type of transaxle. In either case, you need some point of reference- something that will show you how to proceed when you are not sure (or have no idea whatsoever), and that is exactly what this book is designed to do.

You will not find a photocopied section out of a factory manual between these covers. In fact, you will notice a substantial difference between the book you are holding and any other books written on the subject. This is because, as this book was being written, the author was rebuilding an AX4S step by step as he was writing this book. This helped assure that there would be no missing steps (and it was also real handy for taking pictures along the way…). This book was written for transmission rebuilders, by a transmission rebuilder, in plain English rather than complex ‘factoreze’ terminology.

So, whether you’ve already done a few of the AX4S units, or are about to tackle your first one, this book will show you how to get through the sticky parts of a rebuild, as well as the most thorough way to get through the job, start to finish.

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AX4S Rebuild Procedures

This program has been designed by the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association (ATRA) to be used by qualified automotive transmission technicians. Since the circumstance of its use is beyond ATRA’s control, ATRA assumes no liability for the use of such information or any damages incurred through its use and application. Nothing contained in this program is to be considered contractual or providing some form of warranty on the part of ATRA. No part of this program should be constr ued as recommending any procedure which is contrary to the vehicle manufacturer’s procedures. ATRA recommends that only certified automotive technicians with experience in transmission diagnosis and repair perform the procedures in this program.

This program contains copyrighted material belonging to ATRA. No part of this program may be reproduced or used in any form by any means- graphic, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, electronic, or information storage-and-retrieval systems- without the express written permission from ATRA.

ATRA® and the ATRA® logo are registered trademarks of the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association.

Public exhibition or use of this material for group training or as part of a school curriculum, without the express written permission of ATRA, is prohibited by law. For information on using this material for independent tr aining programs, contact ATRA at (805) 604-

2000.

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Step 1: Remove the converter, and let the transaxle drain.

Step 2: Remove the dipstick, dipstick tube and seal.

Step 3: Remove the transmission range sensor and speed sensors.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Transaxle Disassembly

Step 4: Remove the speedometer cover and the speedometer gear and shaft assembly. Be careful not to lose the thrust bearing on top of the speedometer gear. Remove the o-ring from the speedometer cover.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 5: Remove the two servo covers and servos from the case. Be careful: These servos

are spring loaded.

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Step 6: Remove the axle seal at the final drive end of the case.

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Step 7: Remove the turbine shaft o-ring.

Step 8: Remove the front seal by deforming it enough to relax its grip on the case bore,

then prying the seal out of the bore. To deform the seal, place a screwdriver into the groove in the seal and pry the groove towards the center of the seal. Be very careful not to damage the bushing journal on the outside of the stator support.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 9: Remove all case to chain cover bolts located inside the bell housing.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 10: Rotate the unit so that it rests on the edge of the bell housing and the final drive

end of the case. Remove the bottom pan and filter, making sure to retrieve the filter neck seal from the case if it's stuck there.

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Step 11: Remove the apply tube retaining clamps and the park pawl bracket. See ATRA Technical Bulletin #388 clutch anchor 19mm locknut and remove the 6mm Allen head reverse clutch anchor bolt from the case.

for information on an improved tube bracket. Loosen the reverse

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Step 12: Use a screwdriver or slide hammer to pull the reverse clutch feed and rear support lube tubes out of the case.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

IMPORTANT-

not cross. It was later determined that many lubrication failures could be prevented by rerouting the lube flow to this area of the unit. These two tubes were redesigned to accomplish this by switching functions. The new rear support lube tube crosses over the speedometer lube tube. If your unit has the earlier non-crossed tubes, they must be replaced with the new style crossed tubes.

Prior to 1992, the rear support lube and speedometer gear lube tubes did

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

NOTE- The connection between the rear support lube tube and the rear support was

changed in 1993. Prior to this, after the support was installed into the case, a vulcanized rubber/metal insert seal was installed into the case lube tube hole, and driven in against the support. The lube tube went into the case bore only. From 1993, the seal is installed inside the rear planet support, and when installed, the lube tube protrudes through the case hole past the case, and into the rear planet support.

Step 13: Remove the side pan. Disconnect the wiring harness from the solenoids and fluid temperature sensor, and drape the wiring harness out of the way.

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Step 14: Remove the three EPC solenoid bolts, then remove the solenoid. Remove the two lock-up solenoid bolts, then remove the solenoid. There is no need to remove the shift solenoids yet, although following illustrations show them gone for easier viewing.

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Step 15: Remove all of the valve body bolts except the two bolts indicated, and remove the valve body and pump assembly as one unit. Be careful to guide the manual valve link out of the manual valve as you lift and rotate the valve body. Remove the manual valve link from the rooster comb.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 16: Remove the pump shaft from the case.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 17: Mark which chain cover bolt hole gets the big spacer bolt for the shifter cable,

then remove all channel plate-to-case and channel plate-to-driven sprocket support bolts. Don't forget the 13mm bolt that was under the valve body.

Step 18: Remove the chain cover from the case. There are three sets of accumulator springs between the chain cover and the case, so lift the chain cover off of the case slowly and carefully to keep the springs from falling out of position. Remove the chain cover to drive and driven sprocket thrust washers and the three accumulator piston pins from the chain cover.

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IMPORTANT- The accumulator springs are not interchangeable, but are easily confused. You have a choice of whether you want to tag the springs now showing their location, or work out which spring goes where during assembly. ATRA Technical Bulletin #278 can show you how to figure this out during assembly.

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Step 19: Remove the screen from the case passage shown.

Step 20: Check the drive chain for stretch and wear. Do this by pulling outward on the

chain and placing a ruler over the edge of a chain link. Holding the ruler in place, push the chain inward. This tells you how much slack there is in the chain. This measurement must not exceed 5/8". If it does, get a new chain.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 21: Lift the two sprockets and chain from the transmission as an assembly. Be careful you don't lose the thrust washers underneath the sprockets. Inspect the bushing journals on both shafts for wear. Remove the two seal rings from the turbine shaft.

IMPORTANT-

match up the tooth counts of the replacement sprockets with the original count. Consult ATRA Technical Bulletin #423 for further information.

If for any reason either of the sprockets need to be replaced, you must

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 22: Drive or pull the manual shaft roll pins out of the manual shaft lever, the case,

and the park rod lever. Slide the manual shaft out of the case, then remove the park rod. Use a large screwdriver to remove the manual shaft seal.

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Step 23: Slide the drive sprocket support out of the case.

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Step 24: Remove the overdrive band plastic anchor plug and overdrive band from the case.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 25: Install the input drum assembly removal tool, making sure that the hook part of the tool is firmly inside a sun gear shell hole. Remove the input drum assembly.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

If you don't have the removal tool, then remove the input drum assembly in the following order:

• Overdrive band drum and forward sprag and plastic thrust washer

• Input drum. Be sure to retrieve the thrust bearing and selective thrust washer from

the center of the drum

• Intermediate clutch hub and thrust bearings

• Sun gear shell

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Step 26: Grab the front planet splines and pull the reverse clutch drum and planetary/ring gear assembly out of the case.

Step 27: Lift the rear sun gear drum out of the case.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

NOTE-

support. See ATRA Technical Bulletin #360 for details.

Step 28: Remove the low and intermediate band and rear sun gear thrust bearing from the case.

Some rear sun gear drums have no bushing, and use a bearing on the rear planet

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 29: Remove the rear planet support snap ring. Grab the output shaft and lift the

support and differential assembly out of the case. Be careful you don't lose the thrust bearing and selective washer from the back of the differential assembly.

Step 30: Remove the final drive ring gear from the case.

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Step 31: For units earlier than 1993, use either a 1/4" punch or a chain cover-to-driven sprocket support bolt to remove and discard the case to rear planet support vulcanized seal insert, located in the rear support lube tube case hole.

IMPORTANT- Never re-use this seal insert. Removal of the rear planet support tears the end of the seal, causing loss of lube oil if the seal is reused. Always install a new seal in this bore.

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AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Input Drum Disassembly

Step 1: Place the assembly on the bench with the front sun gear facing up, overdrive

drum facing down. Lift the front sun gear shell off of the assembly.

Step 2: Remove the thrust bearing that sits between the sun shell and intermediate hub. Slide the intermediate clutch hub out of the intermediate clutch. Remove the thrust bearing that sits between the intermediate hub and clutch drum.

Step 3: Remove the intermediate clutch pressure plate snap ring and pressure plate. Remove the intermediate clutch pack.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 4: Flip the assembly, and remove the overdrive drum and input sprag. Remove the

plastic thrust washer from the top of the forward clutch return springs.

Step 5: Remove the input sprag outer race, input sprag and sprag end plates from the overdrive drum. Check the inner and outer races for wear — as a rule, if you can feel the wear, there's too much there. Check the teeth in the input sprag for wear or damage. Make sure the springs hold the teeth out, so they'll press against the races. Replace the input sprag for any of these reasons:

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• The sprag shows signs of wear or damage, such as vertical wear lines on the ends

of the teeth that are 1/16" wide or larger.

• The original complaint indicates a problem with the sprag.

• The sprag has been in service for over 40,000 miles.

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Step 6: Gently pry up evenly on the forward clutch, using two screwdrivers. Don't pry against the checkball capsule in the forward clutch drum, and be careful not to distort the direct roller clutch flange while prying.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 7: Remove the forward clutch pressure plate snap ring and pressure plate. Remove

the forward clutch pack and cushion spring.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 8: Remove the O-rings from the direct/intermediate clutch drum grooves, then slide

the direct roller clutch and flange out of the direct/intermediate clutch drum. Remove the plastic thrust washer from the direct clutch return spring retainer.

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Step 9: Slide the outer race and direct roller clutch off of the flange. Check the outer race, inner ramps and rollers for wear or damage. As a rule, if you can feel the wear, there's too much there. Replace the direct roller clutch for any of these reasons.

• Give the roller clutch a little shake. If the bearings fly out, the springs are

damaged.

• If the original complaint indicates a problem with the roller clutch.

• If the roller clutch has been in service for over 40,000 miles.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 10: Remove the direct clutch pressure plate snap ring and pressure plate. Remove

the direct clutch pack.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 11: Using a pick, reach under the outer edge of the direct clutch piston apply ring

and pull it off of the piston.

Step 12: When removing the input drum piston return spring assemblies, it is crucial that they not be bent or deformed in any way. Thrust washers sit on top of them, and a deformed retainer will change the height that the washer sits at, throwing end play out of whack. Make a tool to use when compressing these retainers in your foot press. Get a 4L60 (700R4) pump slide and cut a section out of the slide approx. 1-1/2" long, removing the ear where the slide spring pushes on the slide. This will now evenly press the return spring assemblies with your foot press without distorting them. Use this tool on the intermediate and direct clutch return springs. For the forward clutch return spring assembly, use the input sprag outer race.

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Step 13: Remove all three piston and spring assemblies from the drums, removing the lip seals from the drums and pistons as you go.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 14: Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts. If the forward clutch drum had an

aluminum piston, it must be replaced with the updated steel piston, Ford part number F4DZ-7A262-A.

• Check the clutch piston for cracks, wear or damage.

• Check drum for damage or wear in the bores, clutch splines, snap ring and seal

grooves, and thrust surfaces.

• Check retaining snap rings for being worn or deformed. Check the clutch return

spring assemblies for bent or rusted springs. Make sure that there is no bending or

distortion of any of the spring retainers.

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Step 15: Reseat the forward, direct and intermediate clutch exhaust checkball capsules using a small punch and very light taps with a hammer. Shoot compressed air into the capsules when complete to blow out any dislodged debris.

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AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Input Drum Assembly

Intermediate Clutch

Step 16: Install a new outer lip seal on the intermediate clutch piston, with the lip facing

away from the inner piston flange. Install the inner lip seal into the intermediate clutch side of the input drum (the side with the shorter center hub), with the lip facing down.

IMPORTANT- You must verify correct inner lip seal placement within the drum groove. The seal may look properly seated in its groove, yet not be fully installed. Using the smooth 90 degree end of your pick held at an angle, gently pull up on the underside of the seal lip. This should align the seal with the groove, allowing the seal to slide all the way to the bottom of the groove.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 17: Lubricate the seals with assembly lube, and slide the piston while rotating it into

the drum. You can use a feeler blade or suitable substitute to help the seal lips go into the drum without damaging them.

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Step 18: Install the proper return spring assembly onto the intermediate clutch piston (it's the stiffest, most closely packed one of the three). Compress the spring using the 700 pump slide tool, and install the snap ring. Remove the drum from the compressor.

Step 19: Install the clutch stack in the drum, beginning with the wave plate. Then alternate steel, friction, steel, etc.. These friction plates usually have many grooves in them.

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Step 20: Place the intermediate pressure plate, which is the one with the step, on top of the clutch stack with the step facing up. Install the snap ring.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 21: Check the clearance between the snap ring and the pressure plate. The clearance

specifications are listed by model along with the available snap ring sizes at the end of this chapter.

To adjust the clearance, replace the snap ring with one of the selective rings available.

Step 22: Flip the input drum over. Install a new outer lip seal on the direct clutch piston with the lip facing down, away from the piston checkball capsule. Install the inner lip seal inside the drum, in the lowest groove inside the drum (it hides under a small ledge), with the lip facing down.

Direct Clutch

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

IMPORTANT- You must verify correct inner lip seal placement within the drum

groove. The seal may look properly seated in its groove, yet not be fully installed. Using the smooth 90 degree end of your pick held at an angle, gently pull up on the underside of the seal lip. This should align the seal with the groove, allowing the seal to slide all the way to the bottom of the groove as described in Step 16 above.

Step 23: Lubricate the seals with assembly lube, and slide the piston while rotating it into the input drum. You can use a feeler blade or suitable substitute to help the seal lips go into the drum without damaging them.

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Step 24: Install the proper return spring assembly (it's the one with a notch on the inside diameter) onto the apply piston with the notch aligned with the checkball capsule in the piston. Compress the spring using the 700 pump slide tool, and install the snap ring. Remove the drum from the compressor.

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Step 25: Press the direct clutch piston apply ring (the curved aluminum ring) into place in the piston. Press down firmly, because it needs to be fully seated in order to accurately measure direct clutch clearance.

Step 26: Install the clutch stack in the drum, beginning with a steel plate. Then alternate friction, steel, etc.. These friction plates usually have many grooves in them. There is no waved cushion plate in this clutch pack.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 27: Place the pressure plate onto the clutch stack, and install the snap ring. If you have two non-stepped pressure plates of different thicknesses, this is usually the thinner of the two. Install the pressure plate with the rounded edges of the teeth aiming down.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 28: Check the clearance between the snap ring and the pressure plate. The clearance

specifications are listed by model along with the available snap ring sizes at the end of this chapter. To adjust the clearance, replace the snap ring with one of the selective rings available.

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Step 29: Place the direct roller clutch cage onto the direct roller clutch flange, lining up the flange cam ramps with the angled tabs on the cage. Place the roller clutch outer race onto the cage, ridged side up, rotating the race clockwise to compress the roller springs enough for the race to slide over the rollers.

Direct Roller Clutch

CAUTION-

is installed UP. If assembled wrong, the direct clutch plastic thrust washer will be destroyed, resulting in unit failure.

Be absolutely sure that the side of the outer roller clutch race with the ridge

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Step 30: Install the direct clutch plastic thrust washer (the smaller of the two plastic washers in the drum) on top of the direct clutch return spring retainer, lining up the washer tabs with the elongated holes in the spring retainer. Coat the underside of the washer with assembly lube to hold it in place.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 31: Coat the bushing on the inside diameter of the direct roller clutch flange with assembly lube. Install the roller clutch assembly into the drum, rotating the flange counter-clockwise to engage all of the clutches in the direct clutch pack. You will know that the roller clutch has gone all the way down against the thrust washer when there is approx. 1/4" gap between the top of the flange bushing and the bottom of the lower o-ring groove on the drum. It will also turn easier in one direction while pressing down than it did before all the clutches were engaged.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 32: Place both drum o-rings into their grooves in the drum just above the direct

roller clutch and coat them with assembly lube.

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IMPORTANT PARTS INFORMATION:

Remember to always replace an aluminum forward clutch piston with the steel replacement piston. Consult ATRA Technical Bulletin #267 for part numbers and more information regarding this update.

Forward Clutch

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In 1993, the OD of the input sprag outer race was enlarged to increase the strength of the race. This resulted in a change (increase) to the ID of the clutch pack, cushion plate and pressure plate. Be sure these parts all fit, clear or engage properly before assembling this drum!

In 1996, the height of the splined joint connecting the forward drum to the input drum was reduced. If either of these drums needs to be replaced, be sure to check for a matching splined joint height before proceeding with your rebuild. As long as this joint height matches, the drum assembly will fit any AX4S unit.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 33: Install a new outer lip seal on the forward clutch piston, with the lip facing away

from the piston (unless the piston you’re using has a vulcanized outer seal on it already). Install the inner lip seal into the forward clutch drum with the lip facing down.

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IMPORTANT-

groove. The seal may look properly seated in its groove, yet not be fully installed. Using the smooth 90 degree end of your pick held at an angle, gently pull up on the underside of the seal lip. This should align the seal with the groove, allowing the seal to slide all the way to the bottom of the groove.

Step 34: Lubricate the seals with assembly lube, and slide the piston while rotating it into the forward drum. You can use a feeler blade or suitable substitute to help the seal lips go into the drum without damaging them.

You must verify correct inner lip seal placement within the drum

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Step 35: Install the proper return spring assembly (it's the only one left, and the largest diameter of the three) onto the apply piston. Compress the spring using the input sprag outer race, and install the snap ring. Remove the drum from the compressor.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 36: Install the clutch stack in the drum, beginning with the wave plate. Then

alternate steel, friction, steel, etc.. These friction plates are different then the other friction plates in the unit, usually having very few grooves in them.

Step 37: Place the pressure plate onto the clutch stack, and install the snap ring. If you had two non-stepped pressure plates of different thicknesses, this is usually the thicker of the two.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 38: Check the clearance between the snap ring and the pressure plate. The clearance

specifications are listed by model along with the available snap ring sizes at the end of this chapter. To adjust the clearance, replace the snap ring with one of the selective rings available.

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Step 39: Install the forward clutch plastic thrust washer (the larger of the two plastic washers in the drum) on top of the forward clutch return spring retainer, lining up the washer tabs with the elongated holes in the spring retainer. Coat the underside of the washer with assembly lube to hold it in place.

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Step 40: Sand the input sprag inner and outer races with #320 grit emery cloth. Use a ScotchBrite™ pad or similar mild abrasive to gently scuff the outside of the overdrive drum where the OD band engages. Thoroughly clean these parts after sanding.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Input Sprag/Overdrive Drum

Step 41: Place the input sprag outer race on the bench with the slotted side up. Install the sprag element into the outer sprag race with the cage ridges pointing up. Be careful not to bend the small brass cage springs as the element goes into the race.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 42: Place one sprag end plate, cupped side up, into the overdrive drum. Install the

sprag element and outer race into the overdrive drum, slotted race side up, by rotating the outer race counter-clockwise. THE SPRAG OUTER RACE MUST LOCK AND ROTATE THE DRUM WHEN TURNED CLOCKWISE. Place the second sprag end plate on top of the element, cupped side down, making sure that the plate goes in flush with the outer sprag race.

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NOTE- For heavy duty applications, an E4OD input sprag (which has 34 sprag teeth

instead of the 26 teeth an AX4S sprag has) will fit an AX4S perfectly, providing increased sprag holding power. There is one extra precaution when doing this upgradeOne of the E4OD sprag end plates is too thick for an AX4S. Use the AX4S sprag end plates on both sides of the E4OD element.

Step 43: Flip the overdrive drum over and place it on top of the input drum assembly, engaging the overdrive drum end slots with the direct one way clutch flange tabs. Rotate the overdrive drum clockwise to engage the forward clutch friction plates. You will know that the drum is all the way down against the forward clutch thrust washer by looking down inside the center of the overdrive drum to see if the drum ID inner edge is all the way down against the thrust washer. There must also be a small gap between the direct one way clutch flange tabs and the overdrive drum slots.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 44: Flip the drum assembly over while tightly holding the assembly together.

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Step 45: Place one of the intermediate clutch hub thrust bearings onto the shoulder inside the hub, using assembly lube to hold the bearing in place.

Step 46: Install the intermediate clutch hub into the intermediate clutch by rotating the hub and engaging the clutches until the hub spins easily while being pressed down upon. Place the second hub thrust bearing into position on the top shoulder of the hub, using assembly lube to hold the thrust bearing in place.

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Step 47: Lower the sun gear shell onto the drum assembly, engaging the shell tabs with the slots in the overdrive drum. Once the input drum loading tool is assembled onto the drum assembly, the assembly is now ready to install into the case.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Clutch Clearance Specifications

Forward Clutch

0.049"-0.053" (1.24mm-1.34mm)

0.063"-0.067" (1.60mm-1.70mm)

0.077"-0.081" (1.95mm-2.05mm)

0.091"-0.094" (2.30mm-2.40mm)

0.104"-0.108" (2.65mm-2.75mm)

Direct Clutch

0.049"-0.053" (1.24mm-1.34mm)

0.065"-0.069" (1.66mm-1.76mm)

Clutch Drum Snap Ring Chart

0.082"-0.086" (2.08mm-2.18mm)

0.098"-0.102" (2.50mm-2.60mm)

0.115"-0.119" (2.92mm-3.02mm)

Intermediate Clutch

0.047"-0.051" (1.20mm-1.30mm)

0.066"-0.070" (1.67mm-1.77mm)

0.084"-0.088" (2.14mm-2.24mm)

0.103"-0.107" (2.61mm-2.71mm)

0.120"-0.124" (3.04mm-3.14mm)

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Reverse Clutch Drum

IMPORTANT- Soak all new clutch material in clean ATF for at least 20 minutes before

assembly.

Step 1: Remove the clutch snap ring and pressure plate from the drum.

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Step 2: Remove the clutches, steels and waved cushion plate from the drum.

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Step 3: Compress the clutch return spring using the modified 700 pump slide discussed in the Input Drum section of this program, and remove the snap ring. Remove the drum from the compressor, then remove the return spring assembly and piston from the drum. Remove the lip seals from the piston and the inside of the drum.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 4: Clean the drum and all drum components. Check all clutch components for wear or damage:

• Check the clutch piston for cracks, wear or damage.

• Check drum for damage or wear in the clutch splines and snap ring and seal

grooves.

• Check retaining snap rings for being worn or deformed.

• Check for bent or broken clutch return springs.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 5: Install new outer lip seal on the reverse clutch piston, with the lip facing down,

toward the drum. Install the inner lip seal in the groove inside the drum, with the lip facing down. Make sure that the seal is all the way into the drum groove by running your fingers around the seal lip while gently pulling upward.

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Step 6: Lubricate the seals with assembly lube, and slide the piston into the drum. Use a feeler blade or suitable substitute to guide the outer lip seal into the drum. Unlike all the other clutch pistons in this unit, it's a tight fit, so be careful not to damage the seal with your blade tool. Rather than drag the tool around the piston, you may want to push the lip towards the center of the drum in little sections while maintaining gentle downward pressure on the piston, working your way around the drum until the piston moves down into the pocket.

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Step 7: Install the return spring and retainer onto the apply piston. Compress the spring using the 700 pump slide tool, and install the snap ring. Remove the drum from the compressor.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 8: Install the clutch stack in the drum, beginning with the wave plate. Then alternate

steel, friction, steel, etc.

Step 9: Install the pressure plate snap ring into the drum.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 10: Check the clearance between the snap ring and the pressure plate. The clearance

should be between 0.038" – 0.064" (0.97 – 1.63 mm). To adjust the clearance, replace the snap ring with one of the selective rings available.

The available snap ring sizes are:

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Step 11: Use regulated air pressure to check the reverse clutch operation.

0.059"-0.064" (1.52mm-1.62mm)

0.078"-0.081" (1.98mm-2.08mm)

0.096"-0.100" (2.45mm-2.55mm)

0.115"-0.118" (2.92mm-3.02mm)

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Step 1: Remove the snap ring, and lift the front planet assembly out of the rear ring gear. Be careful you don't lose the needle bearing that sits under the front planet.

Step 2: Lift the rear planet assembly out of the rear ring gear.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Geartrain

Step 3: Check for signs of wear or damage on all gear teeth. Replace any worn or damaged gears, along with the mating gears.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 4: Check the front planetary set for:

• Gear rocking or excessive endplay (should be less than 0.025"). Make sure they

rotate smoothly, with no signs of roughness.

• Front bushing journal wear from the front sun gear bushing. Check the splines on

top of the shaft for any wear.

• Inspect the output shaft bushing/bearing journal for any signs of wear or scoring.

If found, the planet should be replaced. A new planetary assembly has a bushing

rather than a bearing inside the shaft.

• Rear bushing journal wear.

Replace or repair as necessary.

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Step 5: Check the rear planetary set for:

• Gear rocking or excessive endplay (should be less than 0.020"). Make sure they

rotate smoothly, with no signs of roughness.

• Internal bushing scoring or wear. If the front planet rear journal shows wear or

damage, the rear planet bushing must be replaced.

• Internal spline wear.

Replace or repair as necessary.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 6: Clean all gear train components, and lubricate them with clean ATF.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 7: Place the rear ring gear on the bench, teeth down, lugs up. Install the rear planet

assembly into the rear ring gear.

Step 8: Set the #13 needle bearing on the hub of the rear planet, with the black side of the bearing facing up. Install the front planet assembly into the rear ring gear.

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Step 9: Pull up on the outside of the ring gear and install the snap ring to hold the assembly together.

The planet assembly is now ready for main unit assembly.

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Step 1: With the final drive on its side, remove the final drive end play adjustment thrust washer if it didn't come off during unit disassembly. Remove the speedometer drive gear. If you need to use a small screwdriver to pry it off, be very gentle. Even a small nick on a gear tooth can cause the gear to fail, resulting in another complete teardown.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Final Drive

Step 2: Stand the final drive up, then lift the rear planet support off of the final drive assembly.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 3: Remove the parking gear, needle bearing and final drive sun gear from the final

drive assembly. As you lift the sun gear off of the output shaft, stop for a moment at the bushing journal near the top of the output shaft. Check for a good snug fit between the sun gear bushing and this journal, since it's the same size as the journal inside the final drive carrier. If there is a loose fit, the bushing inside the sun gear will need to be replaced.

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Step 4: Use a punch to drive the pinion shaft roll pin out of the differential housing. Slide the pinion shaft out of the differential housing.

Step 5: Rotate the output shaft or side gears to align the pinion gears and thrust washers with the openings in the housing, and remove the pinion gears and washers. The outer side gear and thrust washer will probably fall out of the housing at this time.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 6: Check the following for any wear, scoring or damage:

• Final drive planetary pinion gears. There should be no gear rocking or side-to-side

travel whatsoever. Use a feeler gauge to check planetary pinion gear endplay. It

must not exceed 0.030". If the endplay is excessive, the differential housing is

usually worn rather than the pinion gear thrust washers, therefore the differential

assembly should be replaced.

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• Shaft and gear splines must not have any step-wear or twisting.

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• All bushing journals must be free of any scoring, pitting or wear. There are some

later model rear planet supports that have a bearing journal rather than a bushing

journal for the rear sun gear to ride on. If there is any damage to this journal area,

the support and drum must be replaced with the bushing style parts. The bearing

style parts are no longer available.

• Differential gear teeth must be straight and unpitted. If any tooth damage or wear

is found, replace all four gears. Make sure that the pinion shaft has no wear where

the gears ride. If it does, replace both the shaft and the gears.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

• Final drive housing thrust surfaces must not show wear where the thrust washers

rub.

If these areas check out okay, there is no need to remove the output shaft from the final drive housing. Thoroughly clean all components and proceed to Step 8.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 7: If the output shaft must be removed from the carrier, remove the snap ring from

the end of the output shaft inside the final drive cavity. This may not be as easy as it sounds since the snap ring ends are not angled, causing the snap ring to frequently pop off of the pliers. Here's one way:

• Rotate the snap ring until the gap is aiming up. Push up on the bottom of the ring

with your finger to keep the ring from turning and to lift the ends of the ring in the

groove. Slip the point of a sharp pick under one end of the ring. Now you can let

go with your finger.

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• Gently slide a small sharp screwdriver between the lifted snap ring end and the

side gear. Twist the screwdriver to pry the end of the ring out of the groove.

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• Carefully work your way around the ring groove, twisting the screwdriver to pry

the ring out, being careful to slide the screwdriver as you go rather than lift it.

Once the ring pops out of the groove, the shaft will slide out of the carrier and

side gear.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Thoroughly clean and dry all parts.

If the output shaft was removed, install it into the carrier. Slide a side gear and thrust washer onto the end of the shaft inside the carrier. Slide the assembly down your bench until the top end of the output shaft is against a wall or the edge of the bench. This keeps the shaft and parts from moving around while you install the output shaft snap ring. Install the snap ring on the shaft to hold the gear in place.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 8: Install the thrust washer on the differential side gear with assembly lube smeared

on both sides of the washer, and slide the side gear into the differential housing.

Step 9: Install the thrust washers onto the pinion gears, holding them in place with assembly lube, and slide the pinion gears into the openings in the differential housing. Rotate the output shaft or the side gears to spin the pinions into place. Make sure that both of the pinion gears align with the shaft openings in the differential. If not, rotate the pinion gears back out, and adjust their position relative to the side gears.

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Step 10: Slide the pinion shaft into place, lining up the roll pin hole in the shaft with the proper hole in the housing. Use a tapered punch to align the holes.

Step 11: Reinstall the roll pin to lock the pinion shaft to the differential housing.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 12: Stand the assembly up, then slide the final drive sun gear over the output shaft, into the differential housing.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 13: Slide the park gear down over the output shaft as shown, making sure that the

side with the narrower, slotted, inner ridge goes down, flat ridge up. Set the #16 thrust bearing onto the park gear, flat side up. Use assembly lube to hold the bearing in place.

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Step 14: Check the bushing in the rear planet support: The lube hole must be aligned with the lube passage. There is also a small hole next to the bushing that the bushing must not cover. If the bushing has moved, turned or shows wear, replace the bushing using a locking compound such as Loctite™ to hold the bushing in place.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 15: If your unit uses the 1993 and later lube tube design, replace the lubrication tube

seal in the rear planet support.

Step 16: Slide the rear planet support over the output shaft, and onto the differential housing. If you like, you can set the #15 thrust bearing on the rear planet support now, and use assembly lube to hold it in place, or you can wait until final assembly to install the bearing.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 17: Lay the assembly on its side. Hand press the speedometer drive gear onto the

final drive housing. It should fit very snugly. Coat the final drive endplay adjustment shim with assembly lube and place it against the speedometer drive gear.

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The final drive assembly is now ready for final unit assembly.

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Step 1: Remove the solenoids from the pump housing by pushing down on the lock tangs and rotating the solenoid.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Pump

Step 2: Remove the six pump cover bolts, and remove the pump cover.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 3: Remove the pump rotor and top vane ring from the pump body.

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Step 4: Remove the rotor vanes and bottom vane ring from the pump pocket.

Step 5: Carefully pry the pump spring out of its bore, firmly holding it to keep it from flying out of the spring pocket. It's under a LOT of tension, and odds are that if you let it fly out of the pump pocket, it will hit you right in the head. Be careful you don't damage the pump body or slide as you pry on the spring.

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Step 6: Remove the pump slide and swivel pin from the pump body. Be sure to retrieve the slide seal ring and rubber tension ring from the top of the slide, as well as the small teflon wiper seal and rubber tension strip from the side slot in the pump slide.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 7: Remove the two bolts indicated, and separate the pump from the valve body.

Remove the bottom pump plate gasket.

Step 8: Remove the two Torx bolts from the pump separator plate, and remove the plate and top pump plate gasket. It’s usually a good idea to mark the checkball positions before removing them, but if you don’t, we've included checkball locations for you later on in this section. Remove the checkballs and relief valve from the pump housing.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 9: To remove the pump shaft seal, use a small screwdriver and a hammer to gently

tap into the gap shown to remove the pump shaft seal from the bearing bore.

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Step 10: Clean and inspect all pump components. Repair or replace components as necessary.

Step 11: Inspect the pump shaft bearing journal. A shiny appearance where the bearings ride is normal, but if there is any wear or pitting that you can see or feel, the pump shaft and bearing will have to be replaced. The procedure to change the pump bearing is included at the end of this chapter.

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Step 12: Use a sharpening stone to flat sand all mating surfaces, including the underside of the pump cover after temporarily removing the small spring steel insert. Using a fine grit stone, gently sand the top of the pump pocket, just enough to remove any high spots around the bolt holes.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 13: Check the clearance of the pump slide to the top of the pump pocket with the

swivel pin in place, checking it at three different places around the pocket to verify pocket squareness. You should have between 0.002" and 0.003" clearance. A 0.004" blade must not fit. Remove the pump slide and pin, then install the pump rotor in its normal place. Check rotor clearance in the same manner. You should have between

0.001" and 0.002" clearance. A 0.003" blade must not fit. If they're just a little tight, you can flat sand the component to bring it into specs, making sure you press evenly on the whole part. If they're both a little loose, carefully sand the entire top of the pump pocket until clearance is proper, paying strict attention to pocket squareness. Don't take off more in one place than in another, except to correct a bore squareness problem.

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IMPORTANT- Always re-clean any parts after any sanding operation!

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Step 14: Install a new pump shaft seal with no sealer into the pump bearing bore, rubber side and lip facing up, metal side down. You can use the large diameter pump/valve body alignment pin as a driver, provided you tap on it very gently. Stop when the seal first contacts the bearing.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 15: Install the pump slide into the pocket, with the seal ring groove facing up. Place the teflon side wiper seal and the rubber tension strip into the slot on the side of the pump slide, with the teflon strip against the pump pocket wall and the rubber strip against the pump slide.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 16: Push down on the teflon and rubber side seals, then push the slide towards them,

compressing the rubber strip. While still pushing on the slide, let go of the side seals, then insert the slide swivel pin into its hole between the pump pocket and the slide. Swivel the slide throughout its travel to assure freedom of movement.

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Step 17: There are two ways to install the slide spring between the pump body and the tab on the pump slide, the large screwdriver/prybar method, and the vicegrip method.

The large screwdriver/prybar method is the fastest, but most difficult, requiring some pretty strong prying and thumb action. Make sure you lever the screwdriver or prybar against the slide ear rather than the aluminum pump pocket wall to avoid gouging the top of the wall. Start the spring partway into the wall-end of the pocket as shown. Place your large screwdriver at an angle against the slide ear, and rest the other end of the spring

against it.

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Press down on the end of the spring sticking out of the pocket, sliding it down the screwdriver toward the pocket.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Here’s the spooky part- As the upper spring end approaches the pocket, lever the screwdriver to the vertical position, which will compress the spring until it is shorter than the pocket. Very carefully yet firmly and quickly, press the spring all the way down to the bottom of the pocket. Once the spring is all the way down, hold downward on the spring and the slide while you pull the screwdriver out from between them.

WARNING- If you lose control of the spring or the screwdriver, the spring may launch itself out of the pocket and toward your eyeball at an impressively high velocity while you’re busy gouging your thumb with your screwdriver, so again, be real careful here!

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

The vicegrip method is safer and easier, but more likely to scratch the surrounding surfaces. Compress the spring with a big pair of vicegrips, just until it's a little shorter than the spring pocket. Hold the spring in the proper position over the pump pocket and use a small hammer or your ‘Thumb-Of-Steel’ to tap/push the spring into place.

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Be careful you don't damage the pump body or slide, and again, make sure the spring doesn't fly out of the pump during installation. Carefully file down any new nicks you make in the top of the pump pocket wall, then thoroughly blow any particles out of the pump. Even the slightest leaks between the pump body and cover can really foul up pump operation and efficiency.

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Step 18: Install the bottom vane support ring in the pump bore. Place the pump rotor on top of the support ring, with the small rotor counterbore facing up.

Step 19: Install four pump rotor vanes in the widest area between the rotor and the slide, with the shiny longer edge of the vanes facing out toward the pump slide. Be sure that the vanes are not sitting on top of the bottom vane support ring. Using a pick in a vane slot furthest from the vanes you just installed, reach down and push the bottom vane support ring against the installed rotor vanes. Now you can easily install the rest of the vanes, clearing the bottom support ring. Install the top vane support ring onto the rotor.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 20: Install a new rubber tension ring into the groove on top of the pump slide, then install a new metal seal ring on top of it.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 21: Using a blunt object, push down on the slide side seals to make sure they are all

the way down. Lay the pump cover onto the pump, and start the bolts by hand. Insert the pump shaft to align the pump rotor, and torque the pump bolts to 7 – 9 ft-lbs (9 – 12 Nm).

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Step 22: Flip the pump over and remove the pump shaft. ALWAYS install new checkballs in the pump body, using one of the patterns shown below for your model. Install the relief valve and spring (this spring is larger and stiffer than the two valve body relief valve springs), spring first into the pocket shown.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Pump Checkball Positions

Pump checkball position has been a thorny issue on 1991 and 1992 models, because there are three different patterns used during those years. To make it more interesting, Ford introduced a service kit for certain models that corrects a shifting problem. This kit also changes the checkball pattern from one pattern to another. Oh, and they lost a valve body checkball along the way in 1993 too, followed by losing another pump checkball in 1999. Sound like fun? Follow along and we'll clean up this mess for you. First, the problem:

The first production AX4S units had five pump checkballs. They also had a really harsh

shift problem under stop-and-go traffic conditions.

Part way through 1991 there were changes to the valve body and both separator plates to try to correct this problem, resulting in the removal of one checkball. A kit was made available that allowed you to change over an earlier five ball unit to this later 1991 four ball pattern. Unfortunately, this change didn't completely deal with the problem.

The 1992 model was changed again, resulting in a third checkball pattern. One ball was removed from one of the earlier pump locations and a ball was added to another pump location, resulting in a different four ball pattern. This finally seemed to get a handle on the majority of the harsh shift problems mentioned above.

In 1993 they finally left the pump alone, but removed one of the valve body checkballs, ball #7. But compared to the nightmare above, this one's pretty easy to keep straight.

In 1999 one more checkball was removed from the pump, creating a new, three ball pattern.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

The question: Where do you put the dang pump checkballs? Over the years this problem has cooked down a bit, so it's not quite as complex as it used to be. Here's what we recommend:

Situation 1: If you have an early 1991 unit with a five checkball pump, identified by two holes in the position shown rather than one hole, install the kit mentioned above and convert the pump to the 1992 four ball pattern shown below, provided your unit will accept the kit. The modifications to the valve body and plates do help get rid of the harsh shift problem.

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? When installing this kit, you may notice that the instructions tell you to use the late

1991 four checkball pattern, yet we just told you to use the 1992 four checkball pattern. Don't worry. Our way works better.

IMPORTANTtake to determine if the kit will fit your unit. ATRA Technical Bulletin #240 explains this measurement procedure and includes the kit part numbers. Here’s bulletin #240:

There is a kit available from Ford that allows you to upgrade the function of the second design backout valve, which was introduced in late 1991. It is important to know that not all 1991 AXOD-Es can be upgraded. If the original backout valve diameter measures greater than .349" (the diameter of the new valve), the kit will not work. If you install the kit into a valve body that has a backout valve bore diameter that is greater than .349", EPC and servo apply oil will be exhausted.

Not all five ball units can use this kit! There is a measurement you must

Technical Bulletin #240 1991 AXOD-E Slips, Flare shifts, No line rise

The kit will also include a replacement retainer used between the pull-in control valve and 3-2 timing valve springs.

If you are unable to use the kit, you can purchase the retainer separately. The Ford part number is F1DZ-7F194-A.

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The Ford part numbers are: F1DZ-7A142B - 3.0L Taurus / Sable F1DZ-7A142C - 3.8L Taurus / Sable

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

F1DZ-7A142D - 3.8L Police F10Y-7A142B - 3.8L Continental NOTE: If you have a 1991 AXOD-E with a first design backout valve, it is

recommended that you upgrade it to the second design.

Okay, that’s the bulletin in its entirety. If it turns out that you can't use the kit, install the checkballs in the 1991 five ball pattern shown below.

Situation 2: If you do not have a five checkball pump, or you are using a repair kit for a five ball pump, there's only one test you need to do to determine your correct checkball pattern. You need to find out if checkball #2 will work with your pump plate. Here's how:

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Put an AX4S checkball into pocket #2. Put the pump plate on the pump. Install the alignment pins and tighten the two screws. Turn the pump upside down and hold it over your head (make sure that the pump is clean and dry first!). See if the checkball has dropped into the plate hole and completely sealed it up. If it has, you can use the 1992 and later checkball pattern. If it looks like you need to slide the plate over a little bit for the ball to seal up the hole, use the late 1991 four checkball pattern.

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1991 five checkball pattern.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

1991 four checkball pattern.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

1992 four checkball pattern.

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1999 three checkball pattern.

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Step 23: Lay the proper pump gasket (the one with correct holes for all checkballs and the relief valve) and the separator plate on the pump body, and start the two torx bolts by hand. Use one short and one medium alignment pin inserted into the holes shown to align the gasket and separator plate with the pump body, and tighten the two torx bolts to 7 – 9 ft-lbs (9 – 12 Nm).

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Remove the alignment pins. The pump assembly is now ready to be bolted to the valve body. Any final assembly of pump parts removed in this section will be covered in the valve body section.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Replacing a Pump Shaft Bearing

The original bearing in the pump body is a Torrington #B-127, which is usually unavailable. However, the B-128 is usually readily available at most bearing supply stores, and the only difference between the two is length. The B-128 is 1/16" longer than the B-127.

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To remove the old bearing, place the pump body on wood blocks to protect the casting. You can use the large diameter valve body/pump alignment pin as a driver, provided you tap on it gently.

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One end of these bearings has a rounder edge than the other end. The rounder end must face toward the pump pocket, the squarer end facing the valve body. Flip the pump body over and place it on a wood block to protect the top of the pump pocket and install the new bearing from the bottom of the pump body, starting the round end of the bearing into the hole first.

Gently tap the bearing into place until it is approx. 1/16" (0.062") above flush with the pump body casting. Turn the pump over and measure the depth from the bottom of the pump pocket to the top edge of the new bearing. This distance must be 0.125". Adjust the bearing position until this depth is achieved. There will be plenty of room in the valve body bore to accommodate the small amount of bearing that sticks out from the bottom of the pump.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Valve Body

Step 1: Remove the two torx bolts, and remove the separator plate from the valve body.

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Step 2: Remove the 7 (1991-1992) or 6 (1993-on) checkballs, two relief valves and two screens from the valve body.

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Step 3: Disassemble the valve body. Be careful you don't damage the valve body or its components during disassembly. Look for sticking, worn or damaged valves during disassembly.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

One of the most common valve body problems is a worn pressure regulator boost valve and sleeve. The wear can be very difficult to see, usually looking like a shiny spot inside the sleeve. The sleeve was improved in 1996 to allow better pressure rise response times. For these reasons, we recommend replacing this inexpensive boost valve sleeve during every rebuild. If you decide not to replace the sleeve, and the sleeve you have has only two small holes in it, drill the hole shown to 0.048" - 0.052". This will improve pressure rise response time.

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Step 4: Closely inspect the inside of the pump shaft sleeve in the valve body. If there is any noticeable wear, the sleeve must be replaced. If not, be sure that the hole in the sleeve lines up properly with the hole in the valve body passage next to the sleeve as shown. Many aftermarket suppliers carry the sleeve individually. Check with your parts supplier.

To replace the pump shaft sleeve, place the valve body on wood blocks and use a suitable bushing driver to remove the old bushing. Clean any chips from the valve body. One end of the sleeve should be chamfered on the inside. Start this end into the valve body bore from the top side of the valve body. Line up the hole in the sleeve with the hole in the valve body bore as shown. Drive the sleeve down until the top of the sleeve is 0.225" above flush with the bottom surface of the valve body.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 5: Centerpunch, then drill a line-to-lube hole between 1/16"-3/32" through the valve

body wall shown. If you prefer, you can drill through the wall at the location marked with an arrow instead. We chose the area shown because the walls help keep the drill bit from moving around while drilling.

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Step 6: While you have your drill out, drill the valve body separator plate hole shown to

0.086" to improve lube flow.

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Step 7: Check the valve body top and bottom surfaces for flatness, and flat sand as necessary.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 8: Lubricate the valve body and all components (spraying them down with WD-40

is good, but be careful not to get rag lint into the works) and reassemble. Make sure that the main regulator valve spring seat is assembled properly. The dished side points toward the springs, not the valve.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Here is a list of improved parts your valve body may need. The parts will be listed with the years prior to that update, meaning that if you're working on a unit within the model years shown, you probably need the updated part.

Pressure regulator boost valve sleeve, 1991-1995 (recommended for all rebuilds, all years): F6DZ-7C020-A.

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Revised pull-in control valve/3-2 timing valve separating clip, 1991: F1DZ-7F194-A.

Revised forward clutch control valve retaining clip, 1991-1997: F8DZ-7F194-AA. For more information on this update, refer to ATRA Technical Bulletin #471.

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Step 9: Install the two check valves, filters and checkballs into the valve body, using the following photos as guides:

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 10: Lay the valve body gasket and separator plate on the valve body, and start the

bolts by hand. Make sure that the proper gasket is used by checking all checkballs and relief valves for sufficient gasket hole clearance. Use the alignment pins shown to align the separator plate, gasket and valve body, and tighten the torx bolts to 7 – 9 ft-lbs (9 – 12 Nm).

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1994 - 1995 models use bonded gasket valve body and pump separator plates. Here are the part numbers:

AX4S pump plate:

All except '95 3.0L Windstar - F5DZ-7R167-A

'95 3.0L Windstar - F58Z-7R167-A

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AX4S valve body plate:

'94-'95 3.0L Taurus/Sable - F5DZ-7Z490-C

'94-'95 3.8L Taurus/Sable/Continental - F5DZ-7Z490-D

'94-'95 3.2L Taurus SHO - F5DZ-7Z490-B

'95 3.0L Windstar F58Z-7Z490-B

'95 3.8L Windstar F58Z-7Z490-A

Step 11: Install the alignment pins into the valve body as shown (one of the valve body plate alignment pins needs to be changed). Holding the pins in place, flip the valve body over.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Step 12: Place the pump bottom gasket onto the valve body, using the pins for alignment.

Place the pump body on top of the gasket. Start the two mounting bolts shown, but leave them at least one turn loose.

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Step 13: Tip the valve body and pump assembly onto its side and insert the large alignment pin into the pump shaft bore, making sure it goes all the way into the pump body bearing. Torque the two pump body to valve body bolts to 7 – 9 ft-lbs (9 – 12 Nm), then remove all alignment pins from the assembly.

Step 14: The shift solenoids should be replaced if:

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

• There is over 50,000 miles on the unit.

• There was particle contamination throughout the unit.

• The solenoids show other than 15 to 25 ohms, or show any continuity between

either pin and the metal body of the solenoid.

The first AX4S units had diodes inside the shift solenoids to protect the solenoid circuitry. The diodes were later moved inside the computer, and the diodes were no

longer installed into the factory shift solenoids. However, new replacement shift solenoids always have diodes in them. Therefore, if you need to replace the shift solenoids, it is advisable to always get new ones. This way, you can be sure that your circuitry is protected. It's okay to have diodes in both the solenoids and the computer, but it’s not okay to not have diodes in either location.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

If you decide to use solenoids from a different, otherwise clean unit, and your original shift solenoids had diodes in them, pop the diode covers off of the solenoids you want to use to make sure that the solenoids have diodes. If they don't, and your original solenoids passed the electrical test, you can pop the diodes out of your original solenoids and put them into the shift solenoids from the other unit. Make sure that the band on the diode goes to the right when facing you, as shown.

Place new o-rings on all three shift solenoids. Install them into the pump body, twisting them into position to lock the little angled clips into the pump body casting.

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The pump and valve body are now ready for final unit assembly.

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Step 1: Check for cracks, wear or damage anywhere on the case. Repair or replace as necessary. If a component within the case has suffered a violent explosion, such as a chain, overdrive drum or final drive, it may have caused minute case fractures that could develop into leaks or future breakage. Consider replacing the case.

Step 2: Check for pulled or stripped threads in the case and on the mounting studs. Don't forget about the pan bolt holes, particularly the bottom pan holes. Since this pan gets removed for routine service, it's more vulnerable to 'Impact Gun Syndrome', threads that have been ripped out by the roots with a 1/2" rattle gun running @160psi. Repair as necessary. While you're poking around the bottom of the case, check for kinked or beatup (possibly leaking) oil tubes.

AX4S Rebuild Procedures

Case and Chain Cover Preparation

Ford AX4S AXODE Rebuild Procedures Ford AX4S AXODE Rebuild Procedures

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

Table Of Contents

Geartrain

Final Drive

Pump

Pump Checkball Positions

Replacing a Pump Shaft Bearing

Valve Body