Brother SE-270D Operation Manual

CPS5XV[Y

GETTING READY

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

EMBROIDERY

APPENDIX

Easy Thread Cassette System

Operation Manual

Included Accessories

After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your retailer.

Accessories

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

z Foot controller: Model N5V

This foot controller can be used on this machine model SE-270D.

z The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer.

(Part code: XA4813-051)

1. 2. 3. 4.

5.

6. 7.

8.

9.

10.* 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.

20.

21. 22.

23.

26. 27. 28. 29.

30.

24. 25.

31.

*75/11 2 needles 90/14 2 needles 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)

No. Part Name

1 Buttonhole foot "A" XC2691-021 19 Foot controller XC6651-121 2 Overcasting foot "G" XC3098-051

4 Zipper foot "I" X59370-051 5 Zigzag foot "J" (on machine) XC3021-051 21 Needle-changing tool XC4551-020 6 Blind stitch foot "R" XC4051-051 22 Touch pen XA9940-021 7 Button fitting foot "M" X59375-151 23 Operation manual XC8545-021 8 Seam ripper X54243-001 24 Quick reference guide XC8556-021 9 Bobbin (4) SA156 SFB:XA5539-151 25 Spool cap (special) XA5752-021

10 Needle set X58358-051 26 Embroidery foot "Q" XC3829-021

11 Twin needle X59296-151 27

12 Cleaning brush X59476-051 28

13 Eyelet punch 135783-001 29 Scissors XC1807-121 14 Screwdriver XC4237-021 30 Soft cover XC4842-022 15 Spool cap (large) 130012-054 31 Accessory bag XC4487-021 16 Spool cap (small) 130013-154 17 Extra spool pin XC3834-021 18 Spool net XA5523-050

Part Code

U.S.A. Others U.S.A. Others

No. Part Name

Thread cassette set

20

(on machine)

Embroidery set (medium) H 10 cm X W 10 cm (H 4 inch X W 4 inch)

Embroidery bobbin thread (white)

SA250 TC1:XC4716-0233 Monogramming foot "N" X53840-351

SA432 EF62:XA6628-002

Part Code

SA-

EBT-CE:X81164-001

EBT

Cover A

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions

The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.

Front view

1 2

3

4

5

6

7

8

a Thread cassette compartment cover

b Thread cassette compartment

Insert a thread cassette into the thread cassette compartment.

c Thread cassette eject lever

Press this lever to eject the installed thread cassette.

d Thread tension dial

Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the upper thread.

e Thread cutter

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

f Arm

Plug in the connector for the embroidery unit.

g Embroidery unit connector slot

Plug in the connector for the embroidery unit.

h Flap

Use the flap to create a table. When the sewing machine is not being used, store the machine with the flap folded up. Remove the flap to sew cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs.

i Sliding leg

Pull out the sliding leg during free-arm sewing.

j Operation buttons

Use the operation buttons to start the sewing machine and raise and lower the needle. (page Cover D)

F

E

D C

B

A

0

9

k Operation panel

Select a stitch from those that appear in the operation panel. (page Cover E)

l Bobbin winder

Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.

m Bobbin thread spool pin

Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto this spool pin in order to wind the bobbin.

n Bobbin storage compartment

Store the bobbins designed specifically for this sewing machine in this compartment.

o Bobbin winder cover

Open this cover when winding the bobbin.

p Thread guide for bobbin winding

Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding the bobbin thread.

Cover B

Needle and presser foot section

12

Right-side/rear view

1

2

7

6

5

a Buttonhole lever

Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks.

b Needle bar thread hooks

Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread hooks.

c Needle plate

The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams.

d Bobbin cover/Shuttle

Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin into the shuttle.

e Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.

f Presser foot

The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching.

g Presser foot holder

The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.

4

3

4

5

7

6

a Handle

Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine.

b Balance wheel

Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise and lower the needle to sew one stitch.

c Embroidery card slot

Insert the embroidery card.

d Main power switch

Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine on and off.

e Power supply jack

Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power supply jack.

f Foot controller jack

Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable into the foot controller jack.

g Air vent

The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to be exchanged. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing machine is being used.

h Feed dog position switch

Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.

8

Memo

z Refer to Cover B, C, D or E pages while you

are learning to use your machine.

Cover C

Operation buttons

The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.

1

2

3

5

4

7

6

a Thread cassette indicator

The indicator lights up or goes off depending on the condition of the sewing machine.

Green: A thread cassette can be inserted.

Red: A thread cassette cannot be inserted.

Off: The sewing machine has been turned

off or a thread cassette is already inserted.

b Thread cutter button

Press the thread cutter button after sewing is stopped to cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 50).

c Needle position button

Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.

d Start/stop button

Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 47).

e Presser foot lever

Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.

f Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other. For details, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page 49).

g Sewing speed controller

Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.

CAUTION

● Do not press the thread cutter button after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.

Note

z Do not press the thread cutter button if there

is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur.

z When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon

thread or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine. For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page

50).

Cover D

Operation panel

The front operation panel has an LCD (liquid crystal display) and operation keys.

1

a LCD (liquid crystal display) (touch panel)

Selected pattern settings and messages are displayed. Touch the keys displayed on the LCD to perform operations. For details, refer to "LCD (liquid crystal display) operation" (page 12).

b Back key

Press to return to the previous LCD display.

c Previous page key

Displays the previous screen when there are items that are not displayed on the LCD.

d Next page key

Displays the next screen when there are items that are not displayed on the LCD.

2

5

6

7

8

4

3

e Embroidery key

When it is in embroidery, press to return to the initial embroidery screen.

f Settings key

Press to set the needle stop position, the buzzer sound, and more.

g Memory key

Press to enter character embroidery into the sewing machine memory.

h Sewing machine help key

Press to get help on using the sewing machine. Displays simple explanations of setting upper thread / bobbin winding / setting bobbin thread / needle replacement / embroidery unit attachment / embroidery frame attachment / embroidery foot attachment / presser foot replacement.

Cover E

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — Introduction

Introduction

Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the "Important Safety Instructions" (page 5), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.

Sewing Machine Features

5

1

2

3

4

6

a Thread cassette

Easily thread the upper thread by loading a spool of thread into the thread cassette. Then, simply insert the thread cassette into the compartment to thread the needle. (page 22)

b Simple bobbin-winding

The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread. (page 16)

c Built-in stitches

You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches and decorative stitches. (page 64)

d One-touch lower threading

You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. (page 19)

e Automatic thread cutting

The thread can be cut automatically after sewing. (page 57)

f Embroidery

You can embroider built-in embroidery patterns, characters, framed decorations, and designs from optional embroidery cards. (page 111)

1

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Contents

Included Accessories ............................................................................................... Cover A

Accessories ............................................................................................................................................ Cover A

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ......................................................... Cover B

Front view...............................................................................................................................................Cover B

Needle and presser foot section ............................................................................................................ Cover C

Right-side/rear view .............................................................................................................................. Cover C

Operation buttons..................................................................................................................................Cover D

Operation panel......................................................................................................................................Cover E

Introduction ........................................................................................................................1

Sewing Machine Features ....................................................................................................1

Important Safety Instructions ..............................................................................................5

GETTING READY 9

Turning the Machine On/Off............................................................................................. 10

Power supply precautions ...............................................................................................................................10

Turning on the machine.................................................................................................................................. 11

Turning off the machine..................................................................................................................................11

LCD (liquid crystal display) operation ............................................................................... 12

Viewing the LCD.............................................................................................................................................12

Changing the Machine Settings ....................................................................................................................... 13

Checking machine operating procedures ........................................................................................................15

Winding/Installing the Bobbin........................................................................................... 16

Bobbin precautions .........................................................................................................................................16

Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................16

Installing the bobbin .......................................................................................................................................19

Upper Threading ...............................................................................................................21

About the spool of thread ................................................................................................................................21

Loading the spool into the thread cassette .......................................................................................................22

Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 25

Using the extra spool pin ................................................................................................................................27

Thread the needle manually (without using the needle threader) .....................................................................28

Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 29

Pulling up the bobbin thread...........................................................................................................................31

Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................33

Needle precautions.........................................................................................................................................33

Needle types and their uses............................................................................................................................. 34

Checking the needle .......................................................................................................................................35

Replacing the needle.......................................................................................................................................35

Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................38

Presser foot precautions ..................................................................................................................................38

Replacing the presser foot...............................................................................................................................38

Removing the presser foot holder.................................................................................................................... 40

Sewing Cylindrical Pieces.................................................................................................. 41

Free-arm sewing..............................................................................................................................................41

SEWING BASICS 43

Sewing............................................................................................................................... 44

General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 44

Selecting stitching ...........................................................................................................................................45

Positioning the fabric ......................................................................................................................................46

Starting to sew.................................................................................................................................................47

Securing the stitching......................................................................................................................................49

Cutting the thread ...........................................................................................................................................50

2

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Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................ 52

Thread tension ................................................................................................................................................52

Changing the upper thread tension..................................................................................................................53

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length .............................................................................. 54

Adjusting the stitch width................................................................................................................................ 54

Adjusting the stitch length ...............................................................................................................................55

Useful Functions................................................................................................................56

Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches.......................................................................................56

Automatically cutting the thread .....................................................................................................................57

Mirroring stitches ............................................................................................................................................58

Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................ 59

Trial sewing ....................................................................................................................................................59

Changing the sewing direction........................................................................................................................59

Sewing curves.................................................................................................................................................59

Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................60

Sewing thin fabrics..........................................................................................................................................60

Sewing stretch fabrics......................................................................................................................................60

Sewing an even seam allowance..................................................................................................................... 61

UTILITY STITCHES 63

Stitch Settings.................................................................................................................... 64

Utility stitches .................................................................................................................................................64

Overcasting Stitches .......................................................................................................... 69

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G" ....................................................................................69

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot "J" ............................................................................................. 70

Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ...............................................................................71

Basic Stitching ................................................................................................................... 73

Basting............................................................................................................................................................73

Basic stitching.................................................................................................................................................73

Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................75

Buttonhole Stitching .......................................................................................................... 77

Buttonhole sewing ..........................................................................................................................................78

Button sewing .................................................................................................................................................82

Zipper Insertion................................................................................................................. 84

Inserting a centered zipper ..............................................................................................................................84

Inserting a side zipper .....................................................................................................................................86

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................ 89

Stretch stitching...............................................................................................................................................89

Elastic attaching ..............................................................................................................................................89

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................91

Appliqué stitching ...........................................................................................................................................91

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 93

Piecing............................................................................................................................................................93

Quilting ..........................................................................................................................................................94

Free-motion quilting........................................................................................................................................96

Satin stitching..................................................................................................................................................97

Reinforcement Stitching .................................................................................................... 98

Triple stretch stitching.....................................................................................................................................98

Bar tack stitching.............................................................................................................................................98

Darning......................................................................................................................................................... 100

Eyelet Stitching ................................................................................................................ 102

Decorative Stitching ........................................................................................................ 103

Fagoting........................................................................................................................................................104

Scallop stitching............................................................................................................................................105

Smocking......................................................................................................................................................105

Shell tuck stitching ........................................................................................................................................106

Joining ..........................................................................................................................................................107

Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................108

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EMBROIDERY 111

Embroidering neatly ........................................................................................................112

What to prepare............................................................................................................................................112

Embroidery step by step ................................................................................................................................114

Attaching the embroidery foot ........................................................................................ 115

Attaching the embroidery foot....................................................................................................................... 115

Removing the embroidery foot ...................................................................................................................... 117

Attaching the embroidery unit ........................................................................................118

Embroidery unit precautions ......................................................................................................................... 118

Attaching the embroidery unit....................................................................................................................... 118

Removing the embroidery unit ...................................................................................................................... 120

Preparing the fabric.........................................................................................................122

Attaching a stabilizer material to the fabric ................................................................................................... 122

Setting the fabric in the embroidery frame.....................................................................................................123

Attaching the embroidery frame .....................................................................................126

Attaching the embroidery frame .................................................................................................................... 126

Removing the embroidery frame ................................................................................................................... 127

Selecting embroidery patterns......................................................................................... 128

Copyright Information .................................................................................................................................. 128

Embroidery pattern types...............................................................................................................................128

LCD (liquid crystal display) operation ...........................................................................................................129

Selecting characters ......................................................................................................................................130

Selecting embroidery patterns ....................................................................................................................... 131

Selecting a frame pattern............................................................................................................................... 132

Using an embroidery card ............................................................................................................................133

Embroidering................................................................................................................... 134

Embroidering a pattern.................................................................................................................................. 134

Appliquéing .................................................................................................................................................136

Convenient Functions ...................................................................................................... 138

Adjusting the layout......................................................................................................................................138

Storing characters..........................................................................................................................................139

Adjusting the thread tension.......................................................................................................................... 141

Resewing ......................................................................................................................................................141

Thread runs out partway through a design.....................................................................................................142

Stopping while embroidering ........................................................................................................................142

APPENDIX 145

Maintenance.................................................................................................................... 146

Cleaning the machine surface .......................................................................................................................146

Cleaning the shuttle ......................................................................................................................................146

Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................148

Error messages ..............................................................................................................................................153

Nothing appears in the LCD.......................................................................................................................... 155

Operation beep.............................................................................................................................................155

Cancelling the operation beep ......................................................................................................................156

Index ................................................................................................................................157

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Important Safety Instructions

When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following:

Read all instructions before using.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol " " position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10.Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.

11.Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12.Do not use bent needles.

13.Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14.Switch the machine to the symbol " " position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.

15.Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

16.This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision.

17.Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine.

18.If the Light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.

IMPORTANT

If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug.

NOTE

The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse

approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

WARNING DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE

LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW.

The wires in this main lead are colored in accordance with the following code:

Blue Neutral

Brown Live

As the colors of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colored markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows.

The wire which is colored blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘N’ or colored black or blue.

The wire which is colored brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘L’ or colored red or brown.

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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE

Your machine is one of the most advanced computerized household sewing machines. To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE

For safe operation

1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the balance wheel, thread take-up lever, needle, or other moving parts.

2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:

• Operation is completed

• Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts

• A power failure occurs during use

• Maintaining the machine

• Leaving the machine unattended

3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.

4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.

For a longer service life

1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

3. Do not drop or hit the machine.

4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

For repair or adjustment

In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com

7

8

1 GETTING READY

The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.

Turning the Machine On/Off .................................................................................. 10

LCD (liquid crystal display) operation .....................................................................12

Winding/Installing the Bobbin.................................................................................16

Upper Threading ..................................................................................................... 21

Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................33

Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................38

Sewing Cylindrical Pieces........................................................................................41

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Turning the Machine On/Off

This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.

Power supply precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

WARNING

● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

• When you are away from the machine

• After using the machine

• When the power fails during use

• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection

• During electrical storms

CAUTION

● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire or electric shock may result.

● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to

remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.

● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.

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Turning on the machine

Prepare the included power cord.

Make sure that the sewing machine is turned

a

off (the main power switch is set to " "), and then plug the power supply cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine.

Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a

b

household electrical outlet.

1

a Power supply jack

Press the right side of the main power switch

c

on the right side of the machine (set it to "|").

X The sewing lamp comes on when the

machine is turned on.

Fold the flap at the front of the sewing

d

machine down toward you.

Turning off the machine

When you are finished using the sewing machine, turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.

Make sure that the machine is not sewing.

a

Press the left side of the main power switch on

b

the right side of the machine (set it to " ").

X The sewing lamp goes off when the machine

is turned off.

Unplug the power supply cord from the

c

electrical outlet.

Grasp the plug when unplugging the power supply cord.

Unplug the power supply cord from the power

d

supply jack.

Note

z If a power outage occurs while the sewing

machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine.

(For U.S.A. only)

z This appliance has a polarized plug (one

blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

1

Turning the Machine On/Off 11

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

LCD (liquid crystal display) operation

Selected stitch, pattern settings and messages are displayed on the LCD (liquid crystal display) on the front of the sewing machine.

Viewing the LCD

When the power is turned on, the LCD comes on, and the following screen is displayed. The LCD display is changed using the keys on the right, and operations performed by directly touching the LCD. If it is difficult to press the buttons on the LCD by hand, you can use the touch pen to operate the LCD display.

■ Utility stitch selection screen

1

2

6

7

8

3

9 0

4

5

a Selected stitch b Presser foot to be used c Stitches d Stitch width (mm) e Stitch length (mm) f Automatic reverse/reinforcement g Automatic thread cutting h Horizontal mirror image key i Number of stitches in group j Number of the selected stitch k Increase value l Decrease value

A

B

Memo

z A different screen is displayed when the embroidery unit is attached. z Refer to "Error messages" (page 153) for messages displayed on the LCD. z Depending on the model of sewing machine, an animation may be displayed when the power is turned

on. When an animation is displayed, the screen above will be displayed if you touch the LCD with your finger.

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Changing the Machine Settings

Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed. The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below.

Attribute Icon Details Settings

Thread color/Embroidery thread

Thread color/ needle count

You can switch among thread color/thread number/needle count when embroidering.

number/Country Embroidery thread number/Needle count/Time to

Embroider (after is pressed)

1

Needle position

Twin needle sewing

Thread color index

Automatic thread cutting for embroidery

Stitch width control

Buzzer

Opening screen

Language

Specifies where the needle is positioned when the sewing machine is stopped.

Specifies the twin needle.

When embroidery data containing custom thread colors specified with the PE-DESIGN Ver.5.0 is saved on a blank card, the stored custom thread colors are displayed on the machine, if "ON" is selected for this setting.

Press this key to use the automatic thread cutting function when embroidering.

Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing speed controller.

Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with each operation (page 156).

Sets whether or not to display the opening screen when the power is turned on. (There are models where this cannot be changed.)

Allows the language used in the screens to be changed.

Down Up

Normal needle Twin needle

English, French, German, Dutch,

Spanish, Italian, Danish,

Norwegian, Finnish, Swedish,

Portuguese, Russian, Japanese,

Korean or others

LCD brightness

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Adjusts the brightness of the LCD.

b

Lighter Darker

Press (Settings key) on the display panel.

X The settings screen appears.

LCD (liquid crystal display) operation 13

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press the item to be set.

c

Switch screens using (Previous page key) and (Next page key).

When settings are complete, press (Back

d

key).

X The initial screen appears again.

Note

z The "Thread color index" is the color

number display used when embroidery cards made by "PE-Design" are used.

z The "NO." is the number for the sewing

machine.

z Settings that are changed are not lost when

the power is turned off.

• The items shown in reverse highlighting are the settings at the time of purchase.

 Example: Changing the needle stop position

14

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press (Next page key) to switch to the

d

Checking machine operating procedures

Displays simple explanations of setting upper thread / bobbin winding / setting bobbin thread / needle replacement / embroidery unit attachment / embroidery frame attachment / embroidery foot attachment / presser foot replacement on the LCD.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Press (Sewing machine help key) on the

b

display panel.

next page.

If you press (Previous page key), you return to the previous page.

 Example: Upper threading

1

X The sewing machine help screen appears.

Press the item to be displayed.

c

2

1

5

67

a Threading the upper thread b Winding the bobbin c Installing the bobbin d Needle replacement e Embroidery unit attachment f Embroidery frame attachment g embroidery foot attachment h Replacing the presser foot

X The first screen describing the procedure for

the selected topic appears.

• Pressing (Back key), returns you to the item selection screen.

3

4

8

After you finish looking, press (Back key)

e

two times.

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Note

z For details on each topic, refer to the

corresponding page in this Operation Manual.

LCD (liquid crystal display) operation 15

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Winding/Installing the Bobbin

This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.

Bobbin precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.

CAUTION

● Only use the Bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB:XA5539-151) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

● The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB:XA5539-151).

Actual size

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

This model

Older model

Winding the bobbin

Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

Open the bobbin winder cover at the top on

b

the right side of the sewing machine.

Raise until it stops with a click.

● Please use a transparent bobbin.

16

Swing up the bobbin thread spool pin.

c

Move the bobbin thread spool pin up as far as possible.

1

a Bobbin thread spool pin

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so

d

that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin.

1

2

a Notch b Bobbin winder shaft spring

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.

e

Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto

f

the bobbin thread spool pin.

Slide the spool cap onto the bobbin thread

g

spool pin.

With the rounded side of the spool cap positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap onto the bobbin thread spool pin as far as possible until the right side of the spool touches the right end of the bobbin thread spool pin.

CAUTION

● Two spool cap sizes are available, allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the needle may break.

●

1

• Use the special Brother embroidery bobbin thread when embroidering.

Note

z If a spool of thread 12 mm (1/2 inch) in

diameter and 75 mm (3 inch) high is inserted onto the bobbin thread spool pin, use the special spool cap.

2

1

a 12 mm (1/2 inch) b 75 mm (3 inch)

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 17

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Pull the thread to the right and pass it through

Memo

j

the slit in the bobbin winder seat.

z When using thread that winds off quickly,

such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool.

1

a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)

X The thread is cut to a suitable length.

1

4

3

2

a Spool net b Spool c Spool pin d Spool cap

Pull out some thread, and then thread the

h

thread guide for bobbin winding.

Be sure that the thread is fully in the two thread guides for bobbin winding.

1

2

CAUTION

● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right

k

(so that the speed will be fast).

1

a Sewing speed controller

Press (Start/stop button) once.

l

a Thread guide for bobbin winding b Two slits

Wind the thread that was pulled out onto the

i

bobbin.

Wind the thread that was pulled clockwise five or six times without any slack.

18

1

a Start/stop button

• If it does not start when the start/stop button is pressed, an animation is displayed on the LCD. Press the start/stop button after touching the LCD.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

X The bobbin starts spinning and winding the

thread, and "Winding bobbin thread..." appears on the LCD.

X When winding is complete, the bobbin stops

spinning or spins freely.

Installing the bobbin

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

CAUTION

When the bobbin either stops spinning or spins

m

freely, press (Start/stop button).

X The sewing machine stops, and the

"Winding bobbin thread..." display disappears from the LCD.

Use scissors to cut the end of the thread

n

wound around the bobbin.

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.

o

● Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound with thread, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB:XA5539-151).

1

Remove the bobbin from the shaft.

p

Remove the spool cap and spool.

q

Swing down the bobbin thread spool pin, close

r

the bobbin winder cover, and then slide the sewing speed controller back to its original position.

Memo

z When the sewing machine is started or the

balance wheel is turned after winding the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

Actual size

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

This model Older model

Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.

a

1

a Bobbin cover b Latch

X The bobbin cover opens.

Remove the bobbin cover.

b

Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold

c

the end of the thread with your left.

2

• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 19

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Insert the bobbin into the shuttle so that the

d

thread unrolls to the left.

• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.

CAUTION

● Be sure to hold down the bobbin with your finger and unroll the bobbin thread correctly, otherwise the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

Memo

z The order that the bobbin thread should be

passed through the shuttle is indicated by marks around the shuttle. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and

f

then pull the thread out toward the front.

1

a Cutter

X The cutter cuts the thread.

• Make sure that the thread is correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the shuttle. If it is not inserted, re-insert the thread.

Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right

e

hand, and then guide the thread as shown with your left hand.

a Tension-adjusting spring

Reattach the bobbin cover.

g

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.

1

X The bobbin threading is finished.

Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with the procedure in "Upper Threading" (on the next page).

Memo

z You can begin sewing without pulling up the

bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up the thread according to the procedure in "Pulling up the bobbin thread" (page 31).

1

2

20

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Upper Threading

In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described.

CAUTION

● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.

When using the extra spool pin, attach either the

About the spool of thread

With this sewing machine, a spool of thread can be loaded into the thread cassette, and then the thread cassette can be threaded. Information about the spools of thread is described below.

■ Spools that can be loaded into the thread cassette

Normally, a spool of thread is loaded into the thread cassette and used. The spools that can be loaded must have a diameter smaller than the orange spool cap and a height shorter than the mark on the cover of the thread cassette.

large or small white spool cap, depending on the size of the spool. Use the spool cap with a diameter that is slightly larger than the diameter of the spool.

1

2

1

3

11

2

a Spool cap (orange) b Spool c Mark on thread cassette compartment cover

■ Spools that cannot be loaded into the thread cassette

When using spools that cannot be loaded into the thread cassette, use the extra spool pin.

3

a Spool cap (large) b Spool cap (small) c Spool

Memo

z For details on using the extra spool pin, refer

to "Using the extra spool pin" (page 27).

z When using a spool of cross-wound thread,

install the small white spool cap with some space between the cap and the spool.

1

3

a Spool cap (small) b Gap c Spool

2

Upper Threading 21

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

CAUTION

● Two spool cap sizes are available, allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the needle may break.

Loading the spool into the thread cassette

Load the spool of thread into the thread cassette to prepare the upper thread.

Memo

z The order for threading the thread cassette is

indicated on the thread cassette. Also check the markings on the thread cassette while threading it.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

22

Open the thread cassette compartment cover

b

at the top on the left side of the machine.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Push the thread cassette eject lever on the left

c

side of the machine toward the back.

1

a Thread cassette eject lever

X The thread cassette is raised.

• If the sewing machine is turned off, the thread cassette will not be ejected correctly.

Remove the thread cassette.

d

Pull the cover of the thread cassette out

e

toward you, and then pull off the spool cap that is inserted onto the spool pin.

1

2

3

a Spool cap (orange) b Spool pin c Cover

Place the spool for the upper thread onto the

f

spool pin.

Slide the spool onto the spool pin so that the thread unwinds from the left, as seen from the top.

1

a Spool

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

g

With the rounded side of the spool cap positioned toward the top, slide the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible until the down side of the spool touches the down end of the spool pin.

• Only the orange spool cap should be placed on the spool pin in the thread cassette.

Upper Threading 23

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

• When using special thread such as metallic

CAUTION

thread, use the thumb of your left hand to lightly press down on the area indicated in

● If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may

the illustration to create an opening that allows for easier threading.

become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break.

While holding the end of the thread with your

h

right hand and the thread cassette with your left hand, close the cover.

Close until it clicks.

Pass the thread through the slit in the top of

i

the thread cassette.

Follow arrow 2 indicated on the thread cassette.

1

a Push b Gap

Pass the thread along the bottom of the thread

k

cassette.

Follow arrow 4 indicated on the thread cassette.

2

Pull the thread to the left and pass it through

j

the slit along the left side of the thread cassette.

Follow arrow 3 indicated on the thread cassette.

24

Pass the thread through the notch in the

l

lower-right corner of the thread cassette, and then pull the thread to the left.

Follow arrow 5 indicated on the thread cassette.

1

a Notch

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Pull the thread under the disc at the front in

m

the lower-left corner and around to the right, and then the thread will be cut with the cutter. Follow arrow 6 indicated on the thread cassette.

Threading the needle

In this section, the procedures for installing the thread cassette and threading the needle are described. The needle threader is used to thread the needle at the same time that the thread cassette is inserted.

Memo

z The needle threader can be used with sewing

machine needles 75/11 through 100/16.

z Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker

cannot be used with the needle threader.

z The needle threader cannot be used with the

1

2

a

wing needle or the twin needle.

z If the needle threader cannot be used, refer

to "Thread the needle manually (without using the needle threader)" (page 28).

Check that the thread cassette indicator is lit up in green.

1

a Disc b Cutter

X The spool of thread is now loaded in the

thread cassette.

Note

z Be sure the thread is cut as described above,

otherwise the needle threader cannot be used to thread the needle.

1

a Thread cassette indicator

• If the thread cassette indicator is lit up in red, the needle has not been raised to the correct position. Press (Needle position button) once to raise the needle.

1

a Needle position button

• If the needle is not raised to the correct position, the needle cannot be threaded with the needle threader. Be sure to check that the thread cassette indicator is lit up in green before inserting the thread cassette.

Upper Threading 25

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Insert the thread cassette into the thread

b

cassette compartment.

Slowly press down on the thread cassette until it clicks into place.

1

X At the same time that the thread cassette is

inserted, the needle is threaded.

X The thread cassette indicator goes off.

• If any of the following operations are performed, the needle may not be threaded or the machine may be damaged.

✕ Pushing the cassette

down too fast

✕ Pushing down on a part

of the cassette other than the gray area

a Push here

a Needle bar thread hooks

1

✕ Inserting the cassette

only partway, then pulling it out

• If the needle could not be threaded or the thread was not passed through the needle bar thread hook, refer to "Loading the spool into the thread cassette" (page 22) and perform the procedure again starting from step

• The thread cassette can be inserted whenever the presser foot lever is raised or lowered. However, when the side cutter is attached, be sure to lower the presser foot lever before installing the thread cassette. For more details, refer to "Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter" (page 71).

✕ Inserting the cassette

partway and pausing before fully inserting it

CAUTION

● The needle threader will automatically thread the needle when the thread cassette is pushed down. Be sure to keep your hands and other items away from the needle, otherwise injuries may occur.

b.

26

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Carefully pull on the loop of thread passed

c

through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.

Using the extra spool pin

When using spools with a size that cannot be loaded into the thread cassette, use the extra spool pin.

1

• When embroidering, go to

Pass the thread through the presser foot, and

d

then pull out about 10-15 cm (3/8-5/8 inch) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

1

a 10-15 cm (3/8-5/8 inch)

X The upper threading is finished.

Close the thread cassette compartment cover.

e

e.

Place the spool of thread onto the extra spool

a

pin.

1

a Extra spool pin b Spool

Slide the spool cap for the size of the spool

b

onto the spool pin.

2

1

a Spool cap

• For more details, refer to "About the spool of thread" (page 21).

X Now that the upper threading and the lower

threading are finished, you are ready to begin sewing.

• When embroidering, go to c in

"Embroidering a pattern" (page 134).

Note

z When inserting the thread cassette into its

compartment, slowly press it down.

z If the sewing machine could not be

threaded, try performing the procedure again starting from loading the spool of thread into the thread cassette.

Insert the tabs on the extra spool pin into the

c

holes on the top of the thread cassette.

Upper Threading 27

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Thread the thread cassette with the thread

d

from the spool on the extra spool pin.

Thread the needle manually (

without using the needle threader

)

When using special thread, thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker, the wing needle or the twin needle which cannot be used with the needle threader, thread the needle as described below.

Remove the needle.

a

• Refer to "Replacing the needle" (page 35).

• When using the wing needle, the twin needle or thread that cannot be used with the needle threader, be sure to remove the needle, otherwise the machine may be damaged.

• For more details, refer to "Loading the spool into the thread cassette" (page 22).

Check that the thread cassette indicator is lit

e

up in green, and insert the thread cassette (with the extra spool pin attached) into the thread cassette compartment.

Use both hands to press down on both sides of the extra spool pin.

X At the same time that the thread cassette is

inserted, the needle is threaded.

Check that the thread cassette indicator is lit

b

up in green, and then insert the thread cassette into the thread cassette compartment.

• For details, refer to

a through b

(page 25).

X Pass the thread through the needle bar

thread hooks.

1

a Needle bar thread hooks

Replace the needle.

c

• Refer to "Replacing the needle" (page 35).

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle

d

from front to back.

X The extra spool pin is now installed.

28

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Load the spool for the second thread color

c

Using the twin needle

Using the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different colors. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle and the extra spool pin.For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page

64).

onto the extra spool pin.

CAUTION

1

● Only use the twin needle (Part code : X59296-051). Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

● Do not try installing the twin needle while the thread cassette is not installed, otherwise the needle may break or damage to the machine may result.

Remove the needle.

a

• For details, refer to "Replacing the needle" (page 35).

Load the spool for the first thread color into

b

the thread cassette.

Thread the thread cassette up to arrow 2, indicated on the thread cassette.

• For more details, refer to steps in "Using the extra spool pin" (page 27).

Use the two threads to thread the thread

d

cassette, and then cut the threads.

Thread the thread cassette along arrows 3 through 6, indicated on the thread cassette.

• For more details, refer to steps j through m in "Loading the spool into the thread cassette" (page 22).

a through d

• For more details, refer to steps in "Loading the spool into the thread cassette" (page 22).

a through i

Upper Threading 29

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Insert the thread cassette (with the extra spool

e

pin attached) into the thread cassette compartment.

• For more details, refer to step

e in "Using

the extra spool pin" (page 27).

X Pass both threads through the needle bar

thread hooks.

• If the thread cassette is inserted with the twin needle attached, the sewing machine may be damaged.

Install the twin needle.

f

• For details, refer to "Replacing the needle" (page 35).

Attach zigzag foot "J".

i

• For details on changing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the Presser Foot" (page 38).

CAUTION

● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot "J", otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Turn on the sewing machine and select a

j

stitch.

• For stitch selection see "Selecting stitching" (page 45).

• See "Stitch Settings" (page 64) for stitches that use a twin needle.

CAUTION

● When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Press (Settings key) in the operation

k

panel.

Manually thread the left needle with the

g

thread for the left side of the stitch.

• For details, refer to "Thread the needle manually (without using the needle threader)" (page 28).

Remove the thread for the right side of the

h

stitch from only the lower hook of the needle bar thread hooks, and then use it to thread the right needle.

X The settings screen appears.

Press .

l

X displays in reverse highlight.

• If pressed again, it returns to .

X The twin needle can now be used.

30

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press (Back key).

m

X The initial screen appears again, and

appears.

CAUTION

Pulling up the bobbin thread

When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.

Insert the bobbin into the shuttle.

a

• Refer to steps bobbin" (page 19).

Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.

b

Do not cut the thread with the cutter.

a through e of "Installing the

● When using the twin needle, be sure to select the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Start sewing.

n

• For details on starting to sew, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 47).

X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to

each other.

While lightly holding the upper thread with

c

your left hand, press (Needle position button) twice to raise the needle.

1

Note

z When changing the sewing direction, press

(Needle position button) to raise the needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric.

CAUTION

● Do not try turning the fabric with the twin needle left down in the fabric, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

● When the twin needle mode is selected ( ), do not turn the balance wheel after removing the thread cassette. Otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

a Needle position button

X The bobbin thread is looped around the

upper thread and can be pulled up.

Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull

d

out the end of the bobbin thread.

Upper Threading 31

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Pull out about 10-15 cm (4-5 inches) of the

e

bobbin thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine.

Reattach the bobbin cover.

f

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.

2

1

32

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Replacing the Needle

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.

CAUTION

● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

1

Replacing the Needle 33

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

Fabric Type/Application

Medium weight

fabrics

Thin fabrics

Thick fabrics

Stretch fabrics

Easily frayed fabrics

Thread

Type Size

Broadcloth Cotton thread

60–80

Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50–80

Lawn Cotton thread

60–80

Challis, Satin Silk thread 50–80

Denim Cotton thread 30–50

50

Tweed Silk thread

Jersey

Thread for knits 50–60

Tricot

Cotton thread

50–80 65/9–90/14Synthetic thread

Silk thread

Size of Needle

75/11–90/14Taffeta Synthetic thread

65/9–75/11Georgette Synthetic thread

90/14–100/16Corduroy Synthetic thread

Ball point needle

(golden colored)

75/11–90/14

For top-stitching

■ Thread and needle number

The lower the thread number is, the larger the

thread, and the larger the needle number, the larger the needle.

■ Ball point needle (gold colored)

To avoid skipped stitches use ball point needles with stretch fabrics.

■ Transparent nylon thread

Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.

■ Embroidery needles

Use a 75/11 home sewing machine needle. When embroidering on thick fabrics such as denim, use

a 90/14 or 100/16 home sewing machine needle.

34

Synthetic thread

30 90/14–100/16

Silk thread

• A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased.

CAUTION

● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table above. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Checking the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.

1

2

a Flat side b Needle type marking

■ Correct needle

Replacing the needle

Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in "Checking the needle".

Press (Needle position button) once or

a

twice to raise the needle.

1

a Needle position button

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

1

a Flat surface

■ Incorrect needle

If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.

1

a Flat surface

CAUTION

● Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Lower the presser foot lever.

c

1

a Presser foot lever

Replacing the Needle 35

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Hold the needle with your left hand, and then

d

use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp

CAUTION

screw counterclockwise to remove the needle.

1

● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.

2

a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw

• Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.

With the flat side of the needle toward the rear

e

of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper.

1

■ Using the needle-changing tool

Use the needle-changing tool to replace the needle as described below.

Place the needle in the hole in the needle-

a

changing tool.

a Needle stopper

While holding the needle with your left hand,

f

use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw.

Install the twin needle in the same way.

36

Lift up the needle-changing tool so that the

b

fork hooks onto the needle clamp screw.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Using the screwdriver, loosen the needle

c

clamp screw.

Lower the needle-changing tool.

d

X The needle can be removed from the needle

bar.

Insert the needle until it touches the needle

g

stopper, and then use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw.

X The needle is installed.

Lower the needle-changing tool off of the

h

needle.

Note

z The needle-changing tool can not be used

for the twin needle.

1

Insert the new needle into the hole in the

e

needle-changing tool.

Insert the needle with the flat side of the needle toward the rear of the machine.

Lift up the needle-changing tool so that the

f

fork hooks onto the needle clamp screw.

Replacing the Needle 37

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Replacing the Presser Foot

The presser foot presses down on the fabric.

Presser foot precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet.

CAUTION

● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.

● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

Replacing the presser foot

Replace the presser foot as described below.

Press (Needle position button) once or

a

twice to raise the needle.

1

a Needle position button

• If the needle does not move when the needle position button is pressed, an animation is displayed on the LCD. Press the needle position button after touching the LCD.

X The needle is raised.

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

CAUTION

● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Raise the presser foot lever.

c

1

a Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is raised.

Press the black button at the back of the

d

presser foot holder.

1

38

2

a Black button b Presser foot holder

X The presser foot holder releases the presser

foot.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Place a different presser foot below the holder

e

so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the notch in the holder.

Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is positioned to be read.

1

Note

z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the

presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

1

2

a Presser foot holder b Notch c Pin

Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the

f

presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the presser foot holder.

1

a Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is attached.

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

g

presser foot is securely attached.

3

Buttonhole foot "A"

Overcasting foot "G"

Zigzag foot "J"

Button fitting foot "M"

Monogramming foot "N"

Blind stitch foot "R"

Side cutter "S"

Embroidery foot "Q"

z For details on the presser foot that should be

used with the selected stitch, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 64).

Replacing the Presser Foot 39

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Hold the presser foot holder in place with your

b

Removing the presser foot holder

right hand, and then tighten the screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the embroidery foot and quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.

Remove the presser foot.

a

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot

b

holder screw.

2

1

3

a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw

■ Attaching the presser foot holder

Align the presser foot holder with the lower-

a

left side of the presser bar.

1

a Screwdriver

Note

z If the presser foot holder is not correctly

installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.

40

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing Cylindrical Pieces

Free-arm sewing makes sewing cylindrical pieces easy.

When you are finished with free-arm sewing,

d

Free-arm sewing

push the sliding leg back into position.

1

Removing the flap allows for free-arm sewing, making it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs and pant legs.

Slide the flap off to the left.

a

X With the flap removed, free-arm sewing is

possible.

Pull the sliding leg (at the bottom of the

b

machine) out toward you.

Then, install the flap back to its original

e

position.

1

a Sliding leg

• During free-arm sewing, be sure to pull out the sliding leg.

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the

c

arm, and then sew from the top.

Sewing Cylindrical Pieces 41

42

2 SEWING BASICS

The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.

Sewing.....................................................................................................................44

Adjusting the Thread Tension .................................................................................. 52

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ....................................................................54

Useful Functions......................................................................................................56

Useful Sewing Tips .................................................................................................. 59

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing

Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

CAUTION

● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and balance wheel, otherwise injuries may occur.

● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or

bend.

General sewing procedure

Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

1 Turn on the machine.

Turn on the sewing machine. For details on turning on the machine, refer to "Turning on the machine" (page 11).

2 Select the stitch..

3 Attach the presser foot.

4 Position the fabric..

5 Start sewing..

6 Cut the thread..

↓

Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 45).

↓

Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

↓

Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly. For details on positioning the fabric, refer to "Positioning the fabric" (page 46).

↓

Start sewing. For details on starting to sew, refer to "Starting to sew" (page

47).

↓

Cut the thread at the end of sewing. For details on cutting the thread, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 50).

44

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

11

 Example:

is selected:

Selecting stitching

Stitches are selected using LCD operations. There are 67 utility stitches. Right after turning the power on, the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected.

Determine the stitch to be used, and get the

a

matching presser foot ready.

• Refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 64).

Attach the presser foot.

b

The machine comes with zigzag foot "J" attached.

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

CAUTION

● Use the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. If the wrong presser foot is used, the needle may hit the presser foot and break or bend.

X The stitch is selected, and the stitch number

and settings are displayed.

If necessary, specify the setting for automatic

e

reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the stitch length, etc.

Memo

z Uses of stitches and other stitch selections

are explained in "UTILITY STITCHES" (page

63).

z Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching

and other settings are explained in "Useful Functions" (page 56).

2

Turn on the sewing machine.

c

X The straight stitch (left needle position) is

shown selected in the LCD.

Press the stitch selection.

d

(Previous page key) displays the previous screen, and (Next page key) displays the next screen.

Note

z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the

presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. For details, refer to "Replacing the Presser Foot" (page 38). Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

Sewing 45

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Positioning the fabric

Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

Lower the presser foot lever.

Press (Needle position button) once or

b

twice to raise the needle.

e

1

a Needle position button

Place the fabric under the presser foot.

c

• If the seam allowance is positioned on the

right side, sewing in a straight line is easier and the extra fabric does not get in the way.

While holding the end of the thread and the

d

fabric with your left hand, turn the balance wheel toward you with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.

1

a Presser foot lever

X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.

46

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Starting to sew

Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the sewing speed controller or the foot controller.

• If you continue to hold the start/stop button

Note

z When the foot controller is plugged in, the

start/stop button cannnot be used to start or stop sewing.

c

pressed immediately after the sewing starts, the machine will sew at a slow speed.

When the end of the stitching is reached, press

(Start/stop button) once.

2

■ Using the operation button

Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button (Start/stop button).

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

a

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

a Sewing speed controller

Press (Start/stop button) once.

b

1

X The machine stops sewing with the needle

down (in the fabric).

When you have finished sewing, press

d

(Needle position button).

X The needle is raised.

Cut the threads.

e

• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page

50).

■ Using the foot controller

Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot controller.

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.

a Start/stop button

1

X The machine starts sewing.

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on

b

the back side of the sewing machine.

1

a Foot controller jack

Sewing 47

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

When the end of the stitching is reached,

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

z Foot controller: Model N5V

This foot controller can be used on this machine model SE-270D.

f

completely release the foot controller.

X The machine stops sewing with the needle

lowered (in the fabric).

When you have finished sewing, press

g

(Needle position button).

Turn on the sewing machine.

c

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

d

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

1

a Sewing speed controller

• The speed set using the sewing speed

controller is the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.

Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly

e

press down on the foot controller.

Pressing down on the foot controller increases the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the foot controller decreases the sewing speed.

X The needle is raised.

Cut the threads.

h

• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page

50).

Memo

z When the foot controller is plugged in, the

start/stop button cannot be used to start or stop sewing.

z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains

lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needle stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to "Changing the Machine Settings" (page 13).

CAUTION

● Do not allow thread or dust to accumulate in the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.

● Do not place objects on the foot controller, otherwise damage to the machine or injuries may occur.

● If the machine is not to be used for a long period of time, unplug the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.

Slower

Faster

• Slowly press down on the foot controller. Pressing it down hard starts sewing too quickly.

X The machine starts sewing.

48

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Securing the stitching

When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap, use reverse stitching or einforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread.

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

a

beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever.

a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch

button is held pressed, reverse stitches are sewn.

After sewing back to the beginning of the

d

stitching, release the reverse/reinforcement stitch button.

X The machine stops sewing.

Press (Start/stop button), or press down

e

on the foot controller.

1

2

Press (Start/stop button) or press down on

b

the foot controller.

At this time, if the start/stop button is held pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.

1

a Start/stop button

• For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page

47).

X The machine starts sewing.

After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press

c

(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button).

Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching.

X The machine starts sewing in the normal

sewing direction.

When the end of the stitching is reached, press

f

(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button).

Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are sewn.

X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch

button is depressed, reverse stitches are sewn.

• The machine sews at a slow speed when the reverse/reinforcement stitch button is held down.

Sewing 49

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,

g

release (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button).

X The machine stops sewing.

Press (Start/stop button), or press down

h

on the foot controller.

At this time, if the start/stop button is held pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.

X The machine starts sewing in the normal

sewing direction.

After sewing to the end of the stitching, the

i

sewing machine stops.

Release the start/stop button or foot controller.

1

3

1

2

Cutting the thread

When you have finished sewing, cut the threads.

■ Using the thread cutter button

When you wish to finish the stitching, press

a

b

(Thread cutter button) once.

1

a Thread cutter button

X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot lever, then remove the fabric.

5

4

2

a Beginning of stitching b End of stitching

■ Sewing stitches

Reverse stitches are set for the 1 3 and 7 stitches. When (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) is pressed with stitches other than these, reinforcement stitches are used. Reinforcement stitches are 3 to 5 stitches sewn on top of each other in one place.

1

a Reverse stitching b Reinforcement stitching

2

6

1

a Presser foot lever

CAUTION

● Do not press the thread cutter button after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.

● Do not press the thread cutter button if there is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur.

Memo

z The sewing machine can be set to

automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching. For details, refer to "Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches" (page

56).

50

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,

Memo

z The machine can be set so that the threads

will be cut when sewing is finished. For details on setting the machine so that the threads are cut automatically, refer to "Automatically cutting the thread" (page 57).

■ Using the thread cutter

When sewing with thread thicker than #30, nylon or metallic threads, or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut the threads.

When you wish to finish the stitching and the

a

sewing machine is stopped, press (Needle position button) once.

c

and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

1

a Thread cutter

2

a Needle position button

X The needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot lever.

b

a Presser foot lever

1

Sewing 51

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Adjusting the Thread Tension

The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are equal.

■ Upper thread is too loose

Thread tension

You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the fabric and thread being used.

■ Correct thread tension

The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper thread should be visible from the right side of the fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of the fabric.

1

2

3

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread

■ Upper thread is too tight

If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.

4

If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.

5

1

2

3

4

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread e The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of

the fabric.

Turn the thread tension dial upward to a higher number to tighten the upper thread.

1

2

3

5

4

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread e The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of

the fabric.

Turn the thread tension dial downward to a lower number to loosen the upper thread.

52

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Changing the upper thread tension

The tension is changed using the thread tension dial on the left side of the sewing machine.

Test the stitching using a scrap of the actual

a

fabric to be used.

Referring to the illustration below, turn the

b

thread tension dial on the left side of the sewing machine.

The larger the number is, the greater the upper thread tension.

Tight

Loose

2

1

a Thread tension dial

Test it until the thread tension is suitable.

c

Memo

z Recommended tension setting for normal

stitching is 3-4-5 within the shaded area of the upper tension dial.

Adjusting the Thread Tension 53

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length

The stitch width and length can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected.

Adjusting the stitch width

The zigzag width can be adjusted on the LCD.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

b

X A screen containing settings for the selected

stitch appears.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 45).

• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear.

To make the stitch width narrower, press .

c

To make the stitch width wider, press .

Memo

z To reset the stitch width to its standard

setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value.

z If the straight stitch (left needle position or

triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing the stitch width changes the needle position. Increasing the width moves the needle to the right; reducing the width moves the needle to the left.

z The sewing machine can be set so that the

stitch width can easily be changed with the sewing speed controller. For details, refer to "Satin stitching" (page 97).

z means the setting cannot be adjusted.

CAUTION

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

X The stitch width is changed.

• If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased.

54

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Adjusting the stitch length

The stitch length can be adjusted on the LCD.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

b

X A screen containing settings for the selected

stitch appears.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 45).

• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear.

To make the stitch length shorter, press .

c

To make the stitch length longer, press .

Memo

z To reset the stitch length to its standard

setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value.

z means the setting cannot be adjusted.

CAUTION

● If the stitches are bunched together, increase the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the stitches bunched together may result in the needle bending or breaking.

2

X The stitch length is changed.

• If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased.

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length 55

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Useful Functions

Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.

Position the fabric under the presser foot, and

d

Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches

The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching.Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 64).

then press (Start/stop button) once.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

b

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 45).

Press on the LCD.

c

X It turns to , and the sewing machine is set

for automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching.

1

a Start/stop button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the machine starts sewing.

After reaching the end of the stitching, press

e

(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button)

once.

This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.

1

a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the sewing machine stops.

• To turn automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching off, press .

• When the sewing machine is turned off, the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting is cancelled.

56

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Memo

z Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be

sewn if the start/stop button is pressed at the end of the stitching. Be sure to press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the end of the stitching.

Automatically cutting the thread

The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called "programmed thread-cutting". If programmed threadcutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

b

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 45).

Press on the LCD.

c

2

X You get , and the sewing machine is

set for programmed thread-cutting and automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching.

• To turn programmed thread cutting off, press

.

Useful Functions 57

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Set the fabric in place, and press (Start/

d

stop button) once.

1

Mirroring stitches

You can sew the mirror image of a stitch horizontally (left and right).

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X Stitching starts after reverse stitching or

reinforcement stitching.

Once you have reached the end of the

e

stitching, press (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) once.

If stitching, such as buttonholes and bar tacking, that includes reinforcement stitching has been selected, this operation is unnecessary.

X After the reverse stitching or reinforcement

stitching has been done, the sewing machine stops, and the thread is cut.

The thread is cut here.

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

b

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 45).

Press on the LCD.

c

X It turns to , and the pattern is mirrored.

• To turn the mirrored stitching off, press .

Memo

z Programmed thread-cutting will not be

performed if the start/stop button is pressed while sewing. Press the reverse/ reinforcement stitch button at the end of the stitching.

z If the power is turned off, programmed

thread-cutting will be turned off.

58

Memo

z Mirroring is not possible for buttonholes and

other stitches where shows.

z When the sewing machine is turned off, the

mirroring setting is cancelled.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Useful Sewing Tips

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project.

Trial sewing

After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved. For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.

Changing the sewing direction

When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the

a

sewing machine.

Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle remained up when the machine stopped sewing, press (Needle position button) to lower the needle.

Sewing curves

Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. For details on sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to "Sewing an even seam allowance" (page 61).

When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.

2

Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the

b

fabric.

Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

Lower the presser foot lever and continue

c

sewing.

Useful Sewing Tips 59

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing thick fabrics

■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot

If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.

X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the

foot will return to its normal position.

CAUTION

● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.

■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching

Zigzag foot "J" is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level.

1

a Sewing direction

When you encounter a seam that is too thick

a

to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot lever.

Press the black button (Presser foot holding

b

pin) on the left side of zigzag foot "J". Keep the button held in and lower the presser foot.

1

Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.

1

a Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.

a Presser foot holding pin

X Release the button. The foot will lock in

place level with the seam, allowing the fabric to feed.

60

1

a Basting

Besides, using the stretch stitching or the thread for knits gives an attractive finishes.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing an even seam allowance

To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.

■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot

Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.

1

2

a Seam b Presser foot

■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking

The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking in the needle plate. The distance between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).

2

1

2

a Seam b Presser foot c Centimeters d Inches e Needle plate f 16 mm (5/8 inch)

5

4

3

6

Useful Sewing Tips 61

62

3 UTILITY STITCHES

The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.

Stitch Settings..........................................................................................................64

Overcasting Stitches................................................................................................69

Basic Stitching .........................................................................................................73

Blind Hem Stitching ................................................................................................75

Buttonhole Stitching................................................................................................ 77

Zipper Insertion.......................................................................................................84

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ..................................................................89

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ................................................................91

Reinforcement Stitching ..........................................................................................98

Eyelet Stitching......................................................................................................102

Decorative Stitching..............................................................................................103

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Settings

Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table.

Utility stitches

Stitch Name Pattern

Straight

stitch

Left

Center

Triple stretch stitch

Stretch stitch

Basting stitch

Zigzag

stitch

Center

Right

2-point

zigzag stitch

3-point

zigzag stitch

Application

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Presser Foot

1

2

3

4

5

6

Basic stitching, sewing gathers

J

or pintucks, etc.

Basic stitching and sewing

J

gathers or pintucks

Attaching zippers, basic

J/I

stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.

Attaching sleeves, sewing

J

inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching

Sewing stretch fabrics and

J

decorative stitching

J Temporarily securing

7

8

9

Overcasting and attaching

J

appliqués

Beginning sewing from the right

J

needle position

Overcasting on mediumweight

J

or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc.

10

11

Overcasting on mediumweight

J

or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc.

Overcasting on thin or

G

mediumweight fabrics

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

0.0

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

––

0.0

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

1.0

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

3.5

(1/8)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

(1/16)

(3/16)

2.5

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

(3/32)

– – No Reinforcement No

1.4

1.0

2.0

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

0.3–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

(1/16)

Twin Needle

Yes Reverse No

Yes Reinforcement Yes

Yes Reverse

Yes*

Yes Reinforcement No

Yes Reverse No

Yes Reinforcement Yes

Yes Reinforcement No

No Reinforcement No

Walking Foot

Overcasting stitch

64

12

G Overcasting on thick fabrics

13

14

15

16

Overcasting on thick fabrics and

G

decorative stitching

J Overcasting on stretch fabrics

Overcasting on thick or stretch

J

fabrics

Overcasting on stretch fabrics

J

and decorative stitching

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

4.0

(3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No Reinforcement No

Yes Reinforcement No

* Do not use reverse stitching.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Name Pattern

Blind hem stitch

Appliqué stitch

Shell tuck stitch

Satin scallop stitch

Joining stitch

Smocking stitch

Fagoting stitch

Elastic-attaching

stitch

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

Application

Presser Foot

Blind hem stitching on

R

mediumweight fabrics

Blind hem stitching on stretch

R

fabrics

J Appliqué stitching

J Shell tuck stitching

N Scallop stitching

Patchwork stitching and

J

decorative stitching

Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing overcasting

J

on both pieces of fabric, such as with tricot

Patchwork stitching and

J

decorative stitching

Smocking stitching and

J

decorative stitching

Fagoting and decorative

J

stitching

Fagoting and decorative

J

stitching

Attaching elastic to stretch

J

fabrics

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0

3← – 3→

(0)

0.0

3← – 3→

(0)

3.5

2.5–5.0

(1/8)

(3/32–3/16)

4.0

5.0

4.0

5.0

4.0

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

(3/16)

Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

0.5

(1/32)

(1/64–1/16)

1.2

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

1.2

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

1.6

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

1.0

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

1.6–4.0

0.2–4.0

0.1–1.0

0.2–4.0

1.0–4.0

0.2–4.0

1.0–4.0

0.2–4.0

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Twin Needle

No Reinforcement No

Yes Reinforcement No

Walking Foot

3

Stitch Settings 65

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Name Pattern

Decorative stitch

Stitch Width

Application

Presser Foot

29

30

31

J Decorative stitching

32

33

Decorative stitching and elastic-

N

attaching

Lace sewing, decorative

N

hemming, heirloom stitching, etc.

34

35

36

Decorative hemming, heirloom

N

stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming on thin,

N

mediumweight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming on thin,

N

mediumweight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

37

Decorative hemming on thin,

N

mediumweight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

38

39

Decorative hemming on thin,

N

mediumweight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming, ribbon

N

threading, heirloom stitching, etc.

40

41

Decorative stitching, smocking

N

stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative stitching, smocking

N

stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

4.0

5.5

5.0

3.5

(1/8)

6.0

5.0

6.0

5.0

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

(3/16)

(7/32)

(3/16)

(15/64)

(3/16)

(15/64)

(3/16)

Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

3.0

(1/8)

(1/16–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

1.6

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

1.0

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

3.0

(1/8)

(1/16–3/16)

3.5

(1/8)

(1/16–3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

2.0

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

3.0

(1/8)

(1/16–3/16)

1.6

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

1.6

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

2.0–4.0

1.0–4.0

0.2–4.0

1.6–4.0

1.5–4.0

1/16–3/16)

1.5–4.0

1.0–4.0

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Twin Needle

No Reinforcement No

Yes Reinforcement No

No Reinforcement No

Yes Reinforcement No

No Reinforcement No

Walking Foot

66

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Name Pattern

Buttonhole stitch

Darning stitch

Bar tack stitch

Button-sewing stitch

Eyelet stitch

Piecing straight

stitch

Straight stitch that

looks hand-sewn

(for quilting)

Zigzag stitch (for quilting)

Appliqué stitch

(for quilting)

Presser Foot

42

43

44

45

46

47

48

49

50

51

52

53

54

Horizontal buttonholes on thin

A

and mediumweight fabrics

Horizontal buttonholes on areas

A

that are subject to strain

Horizontal buttonholes on thick

A

fabrics

Secured buttonholes for fabrics

A

that have backings

Buttonholes for stretch or knit

A

fabrics

A Buttonholes for stretch fabrics

A Bound buttonholes

Keyhole buttonholes for thick or

A

furry fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes for

A

mediumweight and thick fabrics

Horizontal buttonholes for thick

A

or furry fabrics

A Darning mediumweight fabrics

A Darning thick fabrics

Reinforcing openings and areas

A

where the seam easily comes loose

55

M Button sewing

56

57

Sewing eyelets, for example, on

N

belts

Piecing straight stitching (with a

J

seam allowance of 6.5 mm from the right edge of the presser foot)

58

Piecing straight stitching (with a

J

seam allowance of 6.5 mm from the left edge of the presser foot)

59

60

61

Straight stitch quilting that looks

J

hand-sewn

Appliqué quilting, free-motion

J

quilting, satin stitching

J Attaching appliqués and binding

Application

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

6.0

(15/54)

6.0

(15/54)

5.0

(3/16)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

2.0

(1/16)

3.5

(1/8)

7.0

(1/4)

5.5

(7/32)

1.5

(1/16)

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

1.5

(1/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

0.0–6.0

(0–15/64)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

2.5–4.5

(3/32–3/16)

7.0, 6.0,

5.0 (1/4, 15/64,

3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

0.5–5.0

(1/32–3/16)

0.4

1.0

1.5

2.0

0.5

2.0

0.4

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.5–2.0

(1/32–1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4–2.5

(1/64–3/32)

0.4–2.5

(1/64–3/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

(1/64)

(1/16)

(1/32)

(1/16)

(1/64)

– – No Reinforcement No

7.0, 6.0,

7.0

5.0 (1/4,

(1/4)

15/64,

3/16)

1.6

2.5

1.4

1.2

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

(1/16)

(3/32)

(1/16)

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Twin Needle

Automatic

No

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

No

No Reinforcement Yes

No Reinforcement No

No Reinforcement Yes

No Reinforcement No

Walking Foot

3

Stitch Settings 67

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Name Pattern

Quilting stitch

62

(for stippling)

63

64

Side cutter

65

66

67

Application

Presser Foot

Quilting background stitching

J

(stippling)

Sewing straight stitches while

S

cutting the fabric

Sewing zigzag stitches while

S

cutting the fabric

Overcasting on thin and

S

mediumweight fabrics while cutting the fabric

Overcasting on thick fabrics

S

while cutting the fabric

Overcasting on mediumweight

S

and thick fabrics while cutting the fabric

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

7.0

(1/4)

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

1.0–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

0.0–2.5

(0–3/32)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

1.6

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.4

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Twin Needle

No Reinforcement No

Walking Foot

68

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Overcasting Stitches

Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Fifteen stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G"

Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot "G".

Stitch Name Pattern Application

11

Preventing fraying in medium weight and thin fabrics

Overcasting

stitch

Attach overcasting foot "G".

a

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

Select a stitch.

b

12

13

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and fabrics that fray easily

G

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

c

d

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

a Guide

Sew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot guide.

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

2.0

(1/16)

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

2.5 (1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

1

Presser

Foot

3

G

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

45).

1

a Needle drop point

Overcasting Stitches 69

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot "J"

Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot "J".

Stitch Name Pattern Application

Zigzag stitch

7

(center

needle

Preventing fraying (center baseline/reverse stitching)

position)

Zigzag stitch (right needle

position)

2-point

zigzag stitch

3-point

8

Preventing fraying (right baseline/reinforcement stitching)

9

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and stretch fabrics

10

zigzag stitch

14

Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics

15

Overcasting

stitch

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and stretch fabrics

16

Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics

Attach zigzag foot "J".

a

J

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

4.0

(3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

0.3–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Sew along the edge of the fabric with the

c

needle dropping off the edge at the right.

Presser

Foot

J

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

Select a stitch.

b

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

45).

70

1

a Needle drop point

1

a Needle drop point

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter

Using the optional side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

63

64

Overcasting

stitch

Remove the presser foot.

a

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

65

66

67

Sewing straight stitches while cutting the fabric

Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting the fabric

Preventing fraying in thin and mediumweight fabrics while cutting the fabric

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics while cutting the fabric

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

c

0.0–2.5

(0–3/32)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot lever.

1

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16)

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

1.4

2.0 ( 1/16–3/16)

2.5 ( 1/16–3/16)

0.2–5.0

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.0–4.0

2

Presser

Foot

S

3

Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter

b

onto the needle clamp screw.

1

2

a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw

a Notch in presser foot holder b Pin

X The side cutter is attached.

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

d

side cutter is securely attached.

CAUTION

● If the thread cassette is to be installed with the side cutter attached, be sure to lower the presser foot lever. If the presser foot lever remains raised, the needle threader will hit the presser foot, which may result in damages.

Overcasting Stitches 71

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,

e

and then pull it out toward the rear of the sewing machine.

Select a stitch.

f

Position the fabric in the side cutter.

h

The cut in the fabric should be positioned over the guide plate of the side cutter.

1

a Guide plate

• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut.

Lower the presser foot lever, and then start

i

sewing.

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

45).

Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in

g

the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.

1

a 2 cm (3/4 inch)

X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching

is sewn.

• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line 63, the seam allowance will be about 5 mm (3/16 inch).

1

a 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Memo

z The side cutter can cut as much as one layer

of 13-oz. denim.

z After using the side cutter, clean it by

removing any lint or dust.

z If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,

use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter.

72

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Basic Stitching

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

Basting stitch

Straight stitch

(left needle

position)

Straight stitch

(center

needle

position)

Triple stretch

stitch

6

Temporarily securing

Basic stitching and sewing

1

gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ reverse stitching)

Basic stitching and sewing

2

gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ reinforcement stitching)

Basic stitching and sewing

3

gathers or pintucks (center baseline/reverse stitching)

4

Reinforcing seams and sewing stretch fabrics

Basting

Sew basting with a stitch length between 5 mm (3/16 inch).

Attach zigzag foot "J".

a

J

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

––

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

––

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Basic stitching

Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

a

Attach zigzag foot "J".

b

J

Presser

Foot

J

3

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

Select stitch 6.

b

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

45).

Start sewing.

c

•

For details, refer to

"Starting to sew" (page 47)

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

Select a stitch.

c

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

45).

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

d

beginning of the stitching.

.

Basic Stitching 73

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Start sewing.

e

• For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page

47).

• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page

49).

When sewing is finished, cut the thread.

f

• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page

50).

■ Changing the needle position

The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position).

12

a Straight stitch (left needle position) b Straight stitch (center needle position)

When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left needle position) is set to its standard setting (0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm (1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between 0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will also change. By changing the stitch width and sewing with the right side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.

1

0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0

34 5

6

2

a Stitch width b Distance from the needle position to the right side

of the presser foot

c 12.0 mm (1/2 inch) d 10.0 mm (3/8 inch) e 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) f 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)

• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" (page 54).

74

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Blind Hem Stitching

Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

17

Blind hem stitching on

Blind hem

stitch

mediumweight fabrics

18

Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics

Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.

Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the

a

hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric.

4

2

1

a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Desired edge of hem d 5 mm (3/16 inch)

3

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0 (0)

3← – 3→

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

Attach blind hem foot "R".

c

R

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

Select a stitch.

d

Presser

Foot

R

3

Fold back the fabric along the basting, and

b

then position the fabric with the wrong side facing up.

2

1

a Wrong side of fabric b Basting

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

45).

Position the fabric with the edge of the folded

e

hem against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

R

1

2

3

a Wrong side of fabric b Fold of hem c Guide

Blind Hem Stitching 75

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly

f

catches the fold of the hem.

R

1

a Needle drop point

When you change the needle drop point, raise the needle, and then change the stitch width.

1

a Stitch width

■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold

The needle is too far to the left. Press to decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold

The needle is too far to the right. Press to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

1 2

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" (page 54).

Sew with the fold of the hem against the

g

presser foot guide.

Remove the basting stitching.

h

1 2

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

76

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Buttonhole Stitching

Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Ten stitches are available for sewing one-step buttonholes, one for sewing on buttons.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

42

Horizontal buttonholes on thin and mediumweight fabrics

43

Horizontal buttonholes on areas that are subject to strain

44

Horizontal buttonholes on thick fabrics

45

Buttonholes with bar tacks on both ends for stabilized fabrics

46

Buttonholes for stretch or knit

Buttonhole

stitch

fabrics

47

Buttonholes for stretch fabrics

48

Bound buttonholes

49

Keyhole buttonholes for thick or plush fabrics

50

Keyhole buttonholes for mediumweight and thick fabrics

51

Horizontal buttonhole for thick or plush fabrics

Button-

sewing stitch

55

Button sewing

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

6.0

(15/64)

6.0

(15/64)

5.0

(3/16)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

3.5

(1/8)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

0.0–6.0

(0–15/64)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

2.5–4.5

(3/32–3/16)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

1.0

(1/16)

1.5

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.5–2.0

(1/32–1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

––M

Presser

Foot

3

A

Buttonhole Stitching 77

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Buttonhole sewing

The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

1

a Reinforcement stitching

The names of parts of buttonhole foot "A", which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.

1

2

5

3

4

A

a Button guide plate b Presser foot scale c Pin d Marks on buttonhole foot e 5 mm (3/16 inch)

1

Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position

a

and length of the buttonhole.

1

a Marks on fabric

Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole

b

foot "A", and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.

A

78

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ If the button does not fit in the button guide plate

Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

45).

1

2

3

a Presser foot scale b Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of

button)

c 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.

1

2

a 10 mm (3/8 inch) b 15 mm (9/16 inch)

X The size of the buttonhole is set.

Position the fabric with the front end of the

e

buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

1

A

2

a Mark on fabric (front) b Red marks on buttonhole foot

Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot.

3

Attach buttonhole foot "A".

c

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

Select a stitch.

d

1

a Do not reduce the gap.

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

f

possible.

1

a Buttonhole lever

Buttonhole Stitching 79

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

1

2

a Buttonhole lever b Bracket

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

g

your left hand, and then start sewing.

X Once sewing is completed, the machine

automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric,

h

and then cut the thread.

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

i

position.

Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at

j

the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut.

1

Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and

k

open the buttonhole.

1

a Seam ripper

For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.

1

a Eyelet punch

• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.

CAUTION

● When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting direction, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips.

80

■ Changing the density of the stitching

Adjust the stitch length.

a Pin

• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch length" (page 55).

• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is too thick), decrease the density of the stitching.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Changing the stitch width

Adjust the stitch width.

• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" (page 54).

Memo

z Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch

length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics

When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread.

Hook the gimp thread onto the part of

a

buttonhole foot "A" shown in the illustration.

It fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.

b

3

Attach buttonhole foot "A".

c

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

Select stitch 46 or 47.

d

Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the

e

gimp thread.

Lower the presser foot lever and the

f

buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.

When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp

g

thread to remove any slack.

Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp

h

thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it.

Buttonhole Stitching 81

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

Button sewing

45).

• Since the end of the thread will be tied off

Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.

later, do not set the sewing machine for programmed-thread cutting.

Measure the distance between the holes in the

a

button to be attached.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the

b

drop feed lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).

1

Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as

e

the distance between the holes in the button.

Place the button in the position where it will

f

be sewn, and lower the presser foot lever.

1

a Button

X The button is held in place.

• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way.

a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the

machine)

X The feed dogs are lowered.

Attach button-sewing foot "M".

c

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

Select stitch 55.

d

82

Turn the balance wheel toward you to check

g

that the needle correctly goes into the two holes of the button.

Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes.

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Start sewing.

h

Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so that the speed will be slow).

X The sewing machine automatically stops

after sewing reinforcement stitches.

• Do not press the thread cutter button.

Pull the upper thread at the end of the

i

stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread.

Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.

When you are finished attaching the button,

j

slide the drop feed lever to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.

Memo

z The feed dog position switch is normally set

to the right side.

z The feed dogs come up when you start

sewing again.

3

Buttonhole Stitching 83

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Zipper Insertion

A zipper can be sewn in place.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

Straight stitch

(center

needle

position)

Attaching zippers

3

Sewing concealed seams and pintucks

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

––

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

Presser

Foot

I

There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper are described below.

Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the

c

Inserting a centered zipper

Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted against each other.

edge of the fabric.

1

3

2

4

1

a Basting stitching b Reverse stitches c Wrong side of fabric

3

a Right side of fabric b Stitching c End of zipper opening

d End of zipper opening

Press open the seam allowance from the

d

wrong side of the fabric.

Attach zigzag foot "J".

a

Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.

b

With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.

• For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page

73).

84

1

a Wrong side of fabric

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Align the seam with the center of the zipper,

e

and then baste the zipper in place.

2

1

3

a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stiching c Zipper

Remove about 5 cm (2 inch) from the end of

f

the basting on the outside.

2

3

a Wrong side of fabric b Zipper basting c Outside basting d 5 mm (2 inch)

4

1

Select stitch 3.

h

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

45).

CAUTION

● When using zipper foot "I", be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the balance wheel toward you to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Topstitch around the zipper.

i

1

3

Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin

g

of zipper foot "I".

1

I

2

a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

2

4

a Stitching b Right side of fabric c Basting stitching d End of zipper opening

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

Remove the basting stitching.

j

Zipper Insertion 85

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press open the seam allowance from the

d

Inserting a side zipper

wrong side of the fabric.

Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper for side openings and back openings.

1

2

3

a Stitching b Right side of fabric c End of zipper opening

The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side, as shown in the illustration.

Attach zigzag foot "J".

a

Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.

b

With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.

• For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page

73).

1

a Wrong side of fabric

Press the seam allowance so that the right side

e

(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch).

1

2

a Wrong side of fabric b 3 mm (1/8 inch)

Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of

f

the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), and then baste or pin the zipper in place.

Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the

c

edge of the fabric.

1

3

2

4

a Basting stitching b Reverse stitches c Wrong side of fabric d End of zipper opening

2

1

a Zipper teeth b Basting stitching

Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin

g

of zipper foot "I".

If the stitching will be sewn on the right side, attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of the zipper foot.

1

I

2

a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

86

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Select stitch 3.

h

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

45).

CAUTION

● When using zipper foot "I", be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the balance wheel toward you to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the

i

extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base of the zipper.

When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the

j

end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever.

Open the zipper and continue sewing.

k

Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then

l

baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.

1

3

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

a Basting stitching

Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin

m

of zipper foot "I".

If the presser foot holder was attached to the right pin in step

a Pin on the left side b Needle drop point

g, change it to the left pin.

1

I

2

Zipper Insertion 87

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Topstitch around the zipper.

n

Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot.

3

2

4

1

a Right side of fabric b End of zipper opening c Reverse stitches d Beginning of stitching e Basting stitching

5

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the

o

end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever.

Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper,

p

and then continue sewing.

88

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape

Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

Stretch stitch

2-point

zigzag stitch

3-point

zigzag stitch

Elastic-

attaching

stitch

5

Stretch fabrics

9

10

Attaching elastic

28

Attaching elastic to stretch fabrics

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

1.0

(1/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

1.0 (1/64–3/16)

Presser

1.0–4.0

0.2–4.0

Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.

Stretch stitching

Attach zigzag foot "J".

a

J

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

Select stitch 5.

b

Elastic attaching

When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the

a

fabric.

Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.

Foot

J

3

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

45).

Sew the fabric without stretching it.

c

1

2

a Elastic tape b Pin

Attach zigzag foot "J".

b

J

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 89

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Select a stitch.

c

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

45).

Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while

d

stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric.

While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

90

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching

The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

7

Attaching appliqués (center

Zigzag stitch

Appliqué

stitch

Piecing

straight stitch

Joining stitch

Mock hand

quilting stitch

Quilting

stippling

19

61

57

22

23

24

59

62

baseline/reverse stitching)

60

Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching

Attaching appliqués

Attaching appliqués and binding

Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 7 mm from the right edge of the presser foot)

Piecing straight stitching (with a

58

seam allowance of 7 mm from the left edge of the presser foot)

Patchwork stitching

Straight stitch quilting that looks hand quilting

Stippling

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

1.5

(1/16)

5.5

(7/32)

1.5

(1/16)

4.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

0.0 (0)

7.0

(1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

0.5–5.0

(1/32–3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

1.0–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16)

(3/32)

(1/16)

(3/32)

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

1.2 (1/16–3/16)

1.6 (1/64–3/16)

1.2 (1/64–3/16)

2.5 (1/16–3/16)

1.2 (1/64–3/16)

2.5 (1/16–3/16)

1.6 (1/16–3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.6–4.0

1.0–4.0

0.2–5.0

0.2–4.0

1.0–4.0

0.2–4.0

1.0–4.0

Presser

Foot

3

J

Memo

z Patterns showing a "Q" on the LCD are for

quilting and those showing a "P" are for piecing.

Appliqué stitching

Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam

a

allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and 3/16 inch).

1

a Seam allowance

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 91

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Place a pattern made of thick paper on the

b

back of the appliqué, and then fold over the seam allowance using an iron.

• After ironing the appliqué, remove the thick paper pattern.

Turn the fabric over, and then baste or fuse it

c

onto the fabric that it will be attached to.

1

Select a stitch.

e

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

45).

Turn the balance wheel toward you, and then

f

begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué.

a Basting stitching

Attach zigzag foot "J".

d

J

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

When sewing around corners, stop the machine with the needle in the fabric just outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to change the sewing direction.

92

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching

Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and

a

place it over the lower piece.

Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the

b

pattern spans over both pieces.

Piecing

Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called "piecing". The fabric pieces should be cut with a 7 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 7 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.

Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the

a

fabric that you wish to piece together.

Attach zigzag foot "J".

b

J

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 38).

Select stitch 57 or 58.

c

3

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

45).

• The piecing straight stitch shows a "P" on the LCD.

Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned

d

with the edge of the fabric.

■ For a seam allowance on the right side

Align the right side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch

57

.

1

a 7 mm (1/4 inch)

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 93

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ For a seam allowance on the left side

Align the left side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch

58

Quilting

.

Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom

1

layers of fabric is called "quilting". Quilts can easily be sewn using the optional walking foot and the optional quilting guide.

Baste the fabric to be quilted.

a

Remove the presser foot holder.

b

a 7 mm (1/4 inch)

• For details, refer to "Removing the presser foot holder" (page 40).

Memo

z To change the width of the seam allowance

(The needle position), adjust the stitch width. For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" (page 54).

Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot

c

onto the needle clamp screw.

1

2

a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw

Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser

d

foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw with the screwdriver.

1

94

a Presser foot holder screw

X The walking foot is attached.

Brother SE-270D Operation Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual