Bernina classic 1008, activa 220, activa 230PE, activa 240, aurora 430 Owner's Manual

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Mastering Your

®

BERNINA

/bernette

Sewing Machine

Your

BERNINA

®

Owner’s Workbook

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 1

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Table of Contents

Class 1 - General Information ..................................................................3

Introduction ....................................................................................................... 4

Meet Your Feet ................................................................................................. 5

Sewing Machine Needles ................................................................................. 6

Thread .............................................................................................................. 8

Stabilizers & Interfacings ................................................................................. 10

Samples........................................................................................................... 12

Product Reference List .................................................................................... 30

Class 2 - Practical Stitching ....................................................................31

Seam Samples ................................................................................................ 32

Hem and Edging Samples ............................................................................... 40

Product Reference List .................................................................................... 52

Class 3 - More Practical Stitching...........................................................53

Elastic Samples ............................................................................................... 54

Buttonhole & Eyelet Types & Uses .................................................................. 58

Buttonhole Feet ............................................................................................... 59

Button & Buttonhole Samples .......................................................................... 60

Zipper Samples ............................................................................................... 70

Darning Sample ............................................................................................... 74

Product Reference List .................................................................................... 76

Your

BERNINA

®

Class 4 - Decorative Techniques.............................................................77

Gathering Samples .......................................................................................... 78

Specialty Needle Samples ............................................................................... 86

Product Reference List .................................................................................... 94

Class 5 - More Decorative Techniques ................................................... 95

Decorative Technique Samples ....................................................................... 96

Patchwork/Quilting/BSR/Applique Samplers .................................................. 108

Surface Embellishment Sampler .................................................................... 124

Product Reference List ................................................................................... 128

Class 6 - Stitch Manipulations................................................................129

Memory - Basic Information ............................................................................ 130

Function Sampler ........................................................................................... 132

Memory Samples ............................................................................................ 144

Setup Program ............................................................................................... 164

Tutorial............................................................................................................ 166

Creative Consultant ........................................................................................ 167

Product Reference List ................................................................................... 168

Class 7 - Directional Stitching................................................................169

Directional Stitching Samples ......................................................................... 170

Product Reference List ................................................................................... 190

Appendices ..............................................................................................191

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06

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Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Class 1

General Information

Class Overview

Machine Overview

Parts of the machine Setting up the machine Getting ready to sew

Winding a bobbin Threading the upper thread Using the needle threader

Presser Feet & Accessories

BERNINA’s philosophy - use correct tools Specific feet for each machine Attaching the presser feet Overview of additional feet Stitch Plates Feed Dog

Stabilizers & Interfacing

Difference between the two Different types and applications Sewing sprays

Samples

1 Straight Stitch/Seaming 2 Needle Positions 3 Securing Stitches 4 Stitching Corners 5 Zigzag/Oversewing Edges 6 Satin Stitch 7 Topstitch/Edgestitch 8 Basting 9 Temporary Altered Stitch Memory

Your

BERNINA

®

Stitch Access

How to find the stitches on your machine Making the settings for each stitch

Tension

Adjusting tension Stitch formation

Needle Stop Adjustment

Foot control Needle Stop Up/Down function Correct use of handwheel

Sewing Machine Needles

Types of needles Sizes of needles Parts of needle Matching needle and thread

Sewing Thread

Good quality vs. poor quality Fibers and weight Thread storage ideas

Care and Cleaning of the Machine

Cleaning the feed dog and needle areas Cleaning and lubricating the hook Cleaning the outside of the machine

This class is formatted for owners of the following BERNINA

• classic 1008

• activa 220

• activa 230PE

• activa 240

• aurora 430

• aurora 440QE

• artista 630

• artista 640

• artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed

This class is also formatted for owners of the following

bernette

• 55 • 65 • 80e • 90e

®

sewing machine models:

®

sewing machine models:

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 3

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Your

BERNINA

Introduction

Congratulations on your purchase of a BERNINA® or bernette® for BERNINA® sewing machine!

This workbook is designed to be used in conjunction with the Owners Classes you will take at your BERNINA® dealership, and contains a series of exercises intended to familiarize you with

®

the features of your new BERNINA needles, threads, stabilizers, interfacing, presser feet and accessories, all of which will increase your knowledge of sewing and assist you in achieving success in all of your sewing endeavors.

Once you have completed the exercises designated for your BERNINA attach the sewn samples to the indicated pages and insert the pages into plastic page protectors and store them in a 3-ring binder. They can then be used as a reference tool in the future as you use your machine and explore the creative possibilities it affords you.

or bernette® sewing machine. In addition, you will learn about

®

or bernette® machine,

®

BERNINA® of America, Inc. strives to provide its customers not just with quality sewing machines, but with informative publications and classes. Along with providing Owners Classes, your local BERNINA® dealer stocks BERNINA® books and magazines, such as Feetures and Through the Needle. Plus, BERNINA® of America, Inc. has a website – www.berninausa.com – offering free projects, basic sewing information, a glossary of sewing terms, inspirational stories, interviews with creative stitchers, and a variety of articles and postings that appeal to all types of stitchers, no matter which machines are their favorites.

Learn to use your BERNINA® or bernette® machine to its full extent and enjoy being creative with fabric and thread!

My BERNINA® or bernette® sewing machine model is: _______________

Serial Number: _________________

I purchased it on: ________________

at ____________________________

______________________________

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06

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Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Meet Your Feet

BERNINBERNIN

BERNIN

BERNINBERNIN

• are precision engineered for specific functions

• are Swiss-made for the highest quality

• are one-piece metal feet, making them sturdy and durable

• are easy to change with one hand, requiring no special tools

• have a white shank, making it easier to see the eye of the needle, resulting in easier threading

• are, in some cases, modeled after commercial feet used in factories to increase speed and production with professional looking results

• do the job intended in relation to all types of sewing (ex. garment-making, quilting, home dec, etc.)

• are supported by the best and most complete educational materials in the industry, such as Feetures volumes 1, 2, & 3, and the BERNINA® website at www.berninausa.com

AA

A® Presser Feet:

AA

2005 Top Ten Accessory Feet

11

1

Patchwork Foot with Guide #57

11

3 3

3

3 3

55

5 Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C

55

77

7 Freemotion Quilting Foot #29/29C

77

88

8 Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C

88

1010

10 Freemotion Couching Foot #43

1010

Your

BERNINA

BERNINBERNIN

BERNIN

BERNINBERNIN

22

2

Walking Foot #50

22

Edgestitch Foot #10/10C

4 4

4

Patchwork Foot #37

4 4

66

6 Clear Foot #34/34C

66

99

9 Invisible Zipper Foot #35

99

AA

A

AA

®

bernette® Presser Feet:

• have a white shank, making it easier to see the eye of the needle, resulting in easier threading

• are available for some of the most common sewing tasks such as piping, quilting, couching, etc.

Walking Foot

Quilting Foot

Blindhem Foot

Satin Stitch Foot

Darning/Embroidery Foot

Gathering Foot

Cording Foot

Overcasting Foot

Hemmer Foot

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 5

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Sewing Machine Needles

Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many “mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be traced to a bent, damaged, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all needles are discarded at some stage of production. When selecting the correct needle for any sewing project, consider the following:

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

Needle system – 130/705H Needle point – to assure proper stitch formation and avoid fabric damage Needle size – smaller for lightweight fabrics; larger for heavier fabrics

If the needle is: Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop to be

picked up by the hook point

Bent – thread loop forms too far away from hook point; hook can’t enter

the loop to form stitch

Blunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to make

a stitch

Need To Know

• Needle should be changed every 4-6 hours of sewing. The needle is the most inexpensive part in your sewing machine but is one of the most crucial for getting good results and keeping your machine running well. Don’t let false economy keep you from doing what is best for your sewing projects and your machine.

• European needles are chrome-plated to glide in and out of fabric easily.

Notes

• The selected thread should fit in the groove on the front of the needle. If it isn’t protected by the groove, a needle with a larger groove should be used.

• Always make sure needles are fully inserted as high as possible, with the flat side to the back.

Needle Size Conversion

European vs. Domestic 60 = 8 70 = 10 75 = 11 80 = 12

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

90 = 14 100 = 16 110 = 18 120 = 19

Regardless of the system, the greater the number, the larger the diameter of the needle.

Needle “Secret” Code

• DRI = Triple

• E = Embroidery

• J = Jeans

• L, LL, R = Leather

• M = Microtex

• MET = Metallica

• N = Topstitching/Cordonnet

• Q = Quilting

• S = Stretch

• SUK = Fine Ball Point

• SES = Medium Ball Point

• WING = Wing

• ZWI = Double

• ZWIHO = Double Wing

6

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Sewing Machine Needles

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

Ball Point

Stretch

Stretch Double

Universal

Double Universal

Triple (Drilling)

Jeans

60-100

70-90

2.5/75

3.0/75

60-120

1.6/70-

8.0/100

2.5/90

3.0/90

70-110

Has a rounded point. 70 for lingerie, nylon, jersey; 80 for T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece.

A stretch needle has a more rounded point than a Ball Point, and a blue anti-cling coating which helps to prevent skipped stitches in knits and elastic. Sometimes used on Ultrasuede

Two ballpoint needles on one shank; each needle has a large scarf. Used for hemming and for stitching on knit fabric.

A compromise between a sharp and a ballpoint needle; can be used on both wovens and knits. 60 – very fine batiste 70 – broadcloth 80 – trigger and gabardine 90 – denim and twill 100/110/120 – canvas

Two needles attached to one shank. Used for pintucks, hems, and decorative work.

Three needles attached to one shank. Used to create mock smocking and other decorative effects.

Has a sharp point and a shaft that is less prone to flex. The sharpness of the needles makes it better for use on denim and woven fabrics where a clean stitch is desired.

®

, vinyl, and plastic.

Microtex / Sharp

Quilting

Topstitch

Embroidery

Embroidery Double

Metafil

Wing

60-90

75 & 90

70-100

75 & 90

2.0/75

3.0/75

80

100 & 110

A sharp point with a thin shaft. Specially designed for microfiber fabrics.

The thin, tapered point of this needle causes less damage to fabric when seaming and cross seaming.

A sharp point with a large eye and deep groove. For use with heavier fabrics – the large groove cradles heavier threads.

Sharp needle with a large eye and groove; also has a coating and a larger scarf. For use with embroidery thread – prevents shredding of rayon or metallic threads. Two threads may be used through the eye.

Two Embroidery needles attached to one shaft; for double needle work with embroidery threads.

Similar to Embroidery needle, with large eye and deep groove, but made of a special heat-resistant alloy and with a friction-reducing coating. Especially suitable for manufactured fibers such as polyester, acrylic, nylon.

Sharp pointed needle with a noncutting wedge of metal on each side. Makes a hole in the fabric without cutting the threads of the fabric. Used for decorative and heirloom work, such as hemstitching. Works best on natural fibers or on the bias.

Jeans Double

Leather

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 7

4.0/80

80-100

Two Jeans needles attached to one shank. For topstitching on denim with heavy thread; can also be used for decorative stitching with metallic thread.

Point is a sharp cutting wedge. Used for leather only. Not for vinyl or simulated leathers.

Double Wing

Metallica

Metallica Double

100

70-90

2.0/80

One regular needle and one wing needle attached to a single shaft. Makes one large and one regular hole.

Designed for use with metallic threads; has a large eye and deep groove.

Two Metallica points on one shaft.

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Thread

Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a “seesaw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions.

Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread must be considered for use with today’s fabrics for fine stitches.

Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.

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Notes

®

Ply – number of strands twisted together to make a single thread.

Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching,

causing the stitch to appear slightly crooked. Poor quality threads are more likely to roll.

Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into a single ply. Thread should not untwist during stitching. This will cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots in seams.

Right twist – most American threads are twisted to the right, causing some rolling. This gives

average stitch quality.

Left twist – Most commercial and imported threads are twisted to the left, giving better than average stitch quality. Left twist resists rolling and makes a larger loop for

the hook point to enter, reducing skipped stitches.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

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BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Thread

Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and marketing of many new thread types, such as rayons and metallics. Threads made in West Germany are left twist threads; Mettler and Isacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towards you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.

Fiber – refers to the type of material used to produce the thread. Some commonly used threads:

• Polyester 2 ply – such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothing construction on man-made, natural or blended fabrics. Will tolerate heat up to 450° Fahrenheit.

• Polyester 3 ply cordonnet – topstitching or buttonhole twist – such as Mettler 30/3.

• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 60/2 – excellent for French Machine Sewing, delicate machine embroidery, piecing and darning.

• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 30/2 – loose twist for a soft, shiny look in machine embroidery, applique, and buttonholes.

• Cotton 3 ply – such as Mettler 50/3 – excellent for clothing construction on natural fibers. Tighter twist than embroidery cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton thread stretches less than polyester.

• Rayon – a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton, it is used for decorative work only.

• Polyester 2 ply embroidery thread – Isacord and Polysheen embroidery thread – excellent for embroidery, very abrasion resistant.

Mastering

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BERNINA

Notes

®

Thread Storage

Thread does deteriorate with age and should be stored with care to keep it usable as long as possible. Extreme moisture may cause thread to swell while very dry conditions can leave it dry and brittle as it ages. Store thread in a covered container (thread box with a lid, cabinet with doors, or drawers that close) if possible to keep it dustfree.

Be wary of old spools of thread recovered from Grandma’s sewing box. The fibers may be so weak and brittle that even if it sews into a seam, it may be so unstable that the garment or project will not hold together and the life of the project may be considerably shortened.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 9

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Stabilizers & Interfacings

Tear-Away Stabilizer: The most commonly used type of stabilizer,

designed to provide temporary support of stitching. Placed on the wrong side of the project and carefully pulled away once stitching is complete. Available in three weights – heavy, medium, and light. Multiple lightweight layers may be preferable to one heavy layer, as they are easier to remove. Many adhesive versions have appeared on the market lately, including Stabil-Stick, which has a peel-away backing which exposes the sticky adhesive, and Hydro-Stick, has a water-activated adhesive on one side which provides a secure bond and a high degree of stabilization for very dense and/or intricate designs. Available in white and black.

Mastering

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BERNINA

Notes

®

Cut-Away Stabilizer: The most widely used stabilizer in the commercial market. Does not break down under dense stitching, due to the high fiber – rather than paper – content. Excess stabilizer is trimmed away after stitching (leave approximately ¼” of stabilizer around the edges). Remaining stabilizer continues to support stitches throughout life of garment/project. Stabil-Stick and Hydro-Stick are available as cut-away stabilizers; in addition, PolyMesh, described below, is available in a fusible version. Available in white and black.

Web/Poly-Mesh Type Stabilizer: A specially formulated cut-away stabilizer developed for use behind lightweight or light-colored fabrics. Available in fusible and non-fusible versions. Available in white, black, and beige.

Water-Soluble Stabilizer: Used for backing and topping, in single or multiple layers. Available in two weights. Excellent for decorative stitching and cutwork as there are no remnants of stabilizer left after removal (it dissolves). As a topping, it keeps stitches from being lost in heavily napped fabrics such as velvet and corduroy. Examples: Aqua Film and Badge Master. Aqua Mesh Plus is an adhesive water-soluble stabilizer.

Iron-On Stabilizer: A non-woven product similar to paper. Perfect for knits, this tear-away stabilizer is temporarily bonded to the fabric, inhibiting the tendency of the material to stretch.

Heat Removable Stabilizer: Woven from strands of fiber that are burned away at a low temperature, heat removable stabilizers are perfect for heirloom stitchery.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

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BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Stabilizers & Interfacings

Liquid/Spray Stabilizers: Wonderful for sheer fabrics from which all

stabilizer must be removed after stitching, these products are painted or sprayed onto the fabric. Several light applications of spray stabilizer are preferable to one heavy application.

Knit Fusible Interfacing: A very lightweight, flexible interfacing sometimes used as a stabilizer, it gives permanent support (as an underlining) to a fabric. Perfect for plackets, garment edges, under buttonholes, and anywhere extra body and stability are needed. Can also be used to stabilize decorative stitch work. Available in white, cream, black, and gray; sometimes available in additional colors.

Mastering

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BERNINA

Notes

®

Woven Fusible Interfacing: This interfacing is sometimes used as a stabilizer and is generally cut on the bias to provide better drape. Gives a firmer hand or finish than knit or non-woven inter-facings. Used for lapels, facings, and anywhere a great deal of extra body and stability are needed.

Sewing and Craft Sprays

HRFive Temporary Adhesive Spray: It’s water-soluble, so it washes out completely. Great for basting or holding two layers of fabric and/or batting together. Can be used as a repositionable spray, allowing items to stay sticky but be repositioned on other surfaces. This water-soluble adhesive washes out completely. Works well for securing “hard-to-hoop” items such as collars and cuffs to hooped stabilizer for embroidering. Also works on paper, and be used as a no-show adhesive on vellum.

606 Fusible Spray: 606 is used to make any fabric or stabilizer fusible. Apply to the wrong side of the fabric to be fused, using several light coats rather than one heavy coating. The more coats used, the stronger the bond will be. Fuse as directed on product label.

Fabric Shield: Used to protect fabrics from dust, dirt, grease, and oil, this spray is water repellent and can be laundered and dry-cleaned.

HRZero Adhesive Remover Spray: For removing adhesives, such as quilt sprays and other spray adhesives, as well as labels and tapes, from various surfaces. Use on work surface areas, hoops, needles, frames, quilting frames, stencils, table tops, etc. For use on plastic, metal, wood, glass, stone, and ceramic surfaces. Not intended for fabric surfaces.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 11

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Straight Stitch/Seaming

Fabric .......................... two pieces firm, woven fabric, each 4” x 6”

Needle .................................................................... 90/14 Universal

Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot .................. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

.......................................BERNINA® Quilting/Seam Guide

..........................................

....................................................

Stitch ................................................................................. straight

Needle Position .....................................................................center

bernette

®

Zigzag/Universal Foot

bernette

®

seam guide bar

Mastering

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BERNINA

Notes

®

Find the 5/8” engraved guide line on the stitch plate. [Not available on bernette® 55.]

Place fabric pieces right sides together and align them with the engraved guide line.

Sew a 5/8” seam on one 6” edge.

Attach and adjust the seam guide and sew a 2” seam on the opposite edge of the fabric.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

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BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Straight Stitch/Seaming Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight 111111111 Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 13

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Needle Positions

Fabric ...................................................... firm, woven fabric 4” x 6”

Stabilizer .............................................lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”

Needle .................................................................... 90/14 Universal

Thread .......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot .................. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

.......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot

Stitch ................................................................................. straight

Needle Position ................................................................. as noted

Fold fabric in half to 2” x 6”.

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BERNINA

Notes

®

Select Straight Stitch.

Position the fold of the fabric on the 1” mark on the right side of the stitch plate. [Not available on bernette® 55.]

Sew ½” (approximately five stitches). Stop with the needle up, out of the fabric.

Move the needle one position to the left.

bernettes

Stitch ½”. Stop with needle out of the fabric. Repeat until all left needle positions have been stitched.

Leaving the fabric under the foot – move the needle position back to center.

BERNINA® models only:

Move needle one position to the right. Stitch ½”. Note: On the 1008, avoid bending the needle by moving it up out of the fabric before changing the needle position; this is not necessary on computerized models, as the machine will automatically wait until the needle is in the highest position before moving the needle.

Repeat this until all right needle positions have been stitched.

®

: Move ½ number to the left using the Stitch Width dial.

Note: If your machine has a Pattern Repeat function, activate Pattern Repeat 1x, stitch until the machine automatically stops, then adjust the needle position; repeat until all positions are sewn.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

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14

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Needle Positions Sample

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BERNINA

®

bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

Needle 2.5-5mm 3.5-7mm 3.5-7mm 3.5-7mm Position Range

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight 111111111 Stitch

Needle 5 9 9 9 11 11 11 11 11 Positions

Pattern -- -- -- -- -- -- yes yes yes Repeat Function

Needle -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes Down/Up Function

®

55 65 80e 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 15

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Securing Stitches

Fabric .............................4 pieces firm, woven fabric, each 4” x 6”

Needle ................................................................... 90/14 Universal

Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or #1C

......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot

Additional Accessories .................................. Quilting/Seam Guide

..................................................... Seam Guide with Rulers

................................................. bernette® Seam Guide Bar

Stitches............................................................................... straight

..................... securing stitch and/or quilters securing stitch

....................................................................... feather Stitch

Needle Position .................................................................... center

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Notes

®

Row 1 - Straight Stitch:

Find the

55.] Fold one piece of fabric in half lengthwise. Place it under the

presser foot; align one 6” edge with the

Select straight stitch. Sew a few stitches forward, then press the Quick Reverse Button/Lever; sew a few stitches backward; machine will sew in reverse until the Quick Reverse Button/Lever is released. Continue stitching the seam; secure the end in the same way.

BERNINA

Row 2 - Securing Stitch or Quilter’s Securing Stitch: Attach the Quilting/Seam Guide or Seam Guide with Rulers to the foot. Set the guide piece of fabric; align the raw edges with the guide.

Select the Securing Stitch. Begin to sew; machine will automatically secure the stitching, then continue stitching forward. At the end of the seam, press and release the Quick Reverse button. The machine will automatically secure the stitching, then stop.

Sample 3 - Securing Function:

Place remaining two fabric pieces wrong sides together. Attach one of the Seam Guides with Rulers to presser foot. Set guide 2” from needle; select a feather stitch. Engage the Securing Function, if available; machine will automatically secure the stitches at beginning of stitching. Re-engage when approaching the end of the stitching; machine will automatically secure the stitching at the end of the current stitch pattern (630/640 will stop stitching as well).

5

/8” guide line on the stitch plate. [Not available on bernette

5

/8” guide line.

®

models only:

5

/8” from the center needle position. Fold another

®

Securing Stitch:

Five straight stitches forward and back at beginning; five stitches backward and forward at end.

Quilters Securing Stitch:

Several very short stitches at beginning and end of straight stitching.

Securing Function:

Several very short stitches at beginning/end of stitching; can be applied to decorative as well as straight stitches.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

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BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Securing Stitches Sample

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BERNINA

®

bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

Securing -- -- -- -Stitch

Securing -- -- -- -Function

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Securing and/or --/-- 5/-- --/5 5/-- 5/-- 5/-- 5/324 5/324 5/324 Quilters Securing Stitch

Feather -- 45 28 44 53 48 332 332 332 Stitch

Securing -- -- -- -- yes yes yes yes yes Function

®

55 65 80e 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 17

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Stitching Corners

Fabric ..................... two pieces firm, woven fabric, each 4” x 6”

Stabilizer .......................................... lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”

Needle ................................................................. 90/14 Universal

Thread ....................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot ................ BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

.......................................

bernette

Stitch ...............................................................................straight

®

Zigzag/Universal Foot

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Notes

®

BERNINA

Select straight stitch.

Place fabric pieces right sides together.

Place the fabric under the foot with the top edge even with the horizontal line behind the foot. The right edge should be even with the

Engage the Needle Down function, if available.

Sew until the bottom edge touches the horizontal line in front of the needle; stop.

Pivot, using FHS (Free Hand System) if available. Continue sewing until you reach the next corner; repeat the pivot.

Stitch 3 sides of this sample.

Note: For crisply turned corners, take two small stitches diagonally across corner before completing the pivot.

®

5

/8” seam line.

bernette

Draw a line 5/8” from each corner of one fabric square.

Select straight stitch.

Place fabric pieces right sides together.

Place fabric under foot, top edge even with 2nd horizontal line behind foot (not available on 55). Right edge should be even with

5

the

®

/8” seam line.

80e & 90e: Engage Needle Down

function; audio signal will beep once. Note: To take a single stitch, press Needle Up/Down two times.

5

Sew until the needle is the end of the fabric.

Pivot. Continue sewing until you come to the next corner; repeat the pivot.

Stitch three sides of this sample.

Note: For crisply turned corners, take two small stitches diagonally across corner before completing the pivot.

/8” from

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

18

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Stitching Corners Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Needle -- -- yes yes Down/Up

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Needle -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes Down/Up Function

Freehand -- optional optional yes yes yes yes yes yes System

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 19

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Zigzag/Oversewing Edges

Fabric ................................................... firm, woven fabric, 4” x 6 ”

Needle ................................................................90/14 Embroidery

Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or #1C

......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot

Stitch ........................................................................ zigzag stitch

Needle Position .................................................. center or far right

Select the Zigzag Stitch (width = 4, length = 2).

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Finish one 6” edge using the following steps.

Guide edge of fabric under the middle of the presser foot – or – Move needle position to far right; sew using the inside edge of the right toe as a guide.

The needle should go into the fabric on one stroke of the needle and over the edge on the next stroke.

Do not use too long a stitch or too wide a stitch; the edge should lie flat, not roll.

Match the weight of the thread to the weight of the fabric.

Trim and mount the sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

20

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Zigzag/Oversewing Edges Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Zigzag 3333 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Zigzag 222222222 Stitch

Needle 59991111111111 Positions

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 21

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Satin Stitch

Fabric .................................................. firm, woven fabric, 6” x 8”

Stabilizer ............................................................ tear-away, 4” x 6”

Needle .............................................................. 90/14 Embroidery

Thread ....................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot .... BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20 or #20C

................................. or BERNINA® Embroidery Foot #6

®

..................... or BERNINA

................................................

Extra Accessory Embroidery Bobbin Case (artista 730/640 only)

Stitch ....................................................................... zigzag stitch

Needle Position ......................................................... as indicated

Clear Embroidery Foot #39

bernette

®

Satin Stitch Foot

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Fold fabric in half to 4” x 6”. Use stabilizer as needed.

Select the Zigzag Stitch. Change the stitch length to satin stitch and the stitch width to the widest possible.

Thread the bobbin thread through the eye in the bobbin case finger if using a machine with a CB hook system. For machines with a rotary bobbin system, loosen the needle tension slightly and use the Embroidery (gold latch) Bobbin Case.

Move the needle position to the center. Sew along the center of the fabric about 1”, then, while continuing to sew, decrease the stitch width to taper the stitch to 0mm. Continue sewing, widening the stitch back to maximum. Repeat until stitching reaches end of fabric.

BERNINA® models only:

Move the needle position all the way to the left. Position the raw edge of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the right side of the stitch plate). Stitch, tapering and widening the satin stitch while sewing.

Move the needle position all the way to the right. Position the fold of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the left side of the stitch plate). Stitch along the right side of the fabric, tapering and widening the stitching while sewing.

Note: A preprogrammed satin stitch is available on artista models 630/640/730: stitch #354 in the Quilt Stitch menu.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

22

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Satin Stitch Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Zigzag 3333 Stitch

Bobbin ORRR Hook System (Oscillating/O or Rotary/R)

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Zigzag 222222222

Stitch

Bobbin CB CB CB CB CB CB CB R R

Hook

System (Oscillating/CB or Rotary/R)

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 23

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Topstitch/Edgestitch

Fabric ....................... firm, woven fabric, two pieces, 4” x 6” each

Needle ............................................................... 90/14 Embroidery

Thread ........................ 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot ................ BERNINA® Edgestitch Foot #10 or #10C

.................................................... bernette® Blindhem Foot

Stitch ............................................................. triple straight stitch

Needle Position .......................................................... as indicated

Place fabrics right sides together. Stitch together with a 5/8” seam along one 6” side. Finger-press the seam open.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Select the triple straight stitch.

BERNINA

From the right side, position the blade of Foot #10/10C in the ditch of the seam. Move the needle position two places to the left.

Stitch the length of the seam.

If available, select the Long Stitch function. If not available, increase the stitch length to 5mm.

Move the needle all the way to the right, if available.

Starting at the top of the seam again, stitch the length of the seam.

®

bernette

Move the white blade 1/8” from the needle. Position the blade in the ditch of the seam.

Stitch the length of the seam.

Increase the stitch length to 5mm.

Move the needle all the way to the left.

Move white blade to line up with right side of the needle opening of the presser foot.

With the guide in the ditch of the seam, and starting at the top of the seam again, stitch the length of the seam.

®

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

24

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Topstitch/Edgestitch Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Triple 7 155151

Straight Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Triple 966666666 Straight Stitch

Needle 59991111111111 Positions

Long Stitch -- -- -- -- -- -- -- yes yes Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 25

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Basting

Fabric .................................... firm, woven fabric, 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each

Needle ........................................................................ 90/14 Embroidery

Thread ................................. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

®

Foot ... BERNINA

...... BERNINA

.................................................. bernette

Stitches......................................................................................... straight

......................................................................................... basting

Needle Position ............................................................................. center

Place fabric pieces right sides together.

Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C (1008, 640 & 730) – or –

®

Darning Foot #9 (220/230/240, 430/440 & 630)

®

Zigzag/Universal Foot

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

BERNINA

artista 640 & 730

Select preprogrammed basting stitch, if available, or straight stitch (preprogrammed length). Engage Long Stitch function if available.

Attach Foot #1/1C. Baste a seam along one side of fabric.

Adjust stitch length to 5mm; baste another side of fabric.

activa 220/230/240, aurora 430/440 & artista 630

Select preprogramed basting stitch. Attach Foot #9 and lower feed dog.

Sew one stitch; pull fabric desired length (2.5mm) of stitch from behind machine. Take one stitch. Repeat as needed.

®

5

/8”

5

/8” seam along opposite

bernette

®

& BERNINA® 1008 Using a straight stitch with a length of 5mm, baste a 5/8” seam along one side of fabric.

Repeat for opposite edge, moving fabric 5mm or more between stitches.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

26

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Basting Sample

Basting Stitch or [Straight Stitch + Long Stitch Function] Preprogrammed settings (Stitch Length = 2mm)

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

Basting Stitch or [Straight Stitch + Long Stitch Function]

Stitch Length = 5mm

bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Basting -- 16 19 21 19 21 30 21 21

Stitch

®

55 65 80e 90e

Long Stitch -- -- -- -- -- -- -- yes yes

Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 27

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

BERNINA® electronic models only

Temporary Altered Stitch Memory

Fabric .................................................... firm, woven fabric, 6” x 8”

Stabilizer ............................................................. tear-away, 4” x 6”

Needle ................................................................90/14 Embroidery

Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or #1C

Stitch .................................................................................... heart

Needle Position .................................................................... center

Fold fabric to 4” x 6”. Insert stabilizer between layers.

Select the heart or other pattern stitch. Stitch two patterns and stop.

Note: If available, select the Pattern Repeat function 2x. Stitch; machine will automatically stop after two repeats.

– or –

Note: If available, touch Pattern End while sewing second pattern; machine will automatically stop at the end of the current pattern.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Reduce the stitch width to 4mm (6mm for the artista 640 and 730). Stitch two more repeats.

Select Vertical Mirror Image function if available. Stitch two more repeats.

Select the zigzag stitch from Satin Stitching exercise (pages 22-23).

Note: The sewing computer remembered all the changes made to the stitch – length, width, and needle position.

All models except artista 630/640/730: Disengage the Mirror Image

function, as it remains active until turned off.

Select heart stitch again. Sew. Note: The sewing computer

remembered all changes made to heart stitch, as well as to zigzag.

Note: In addition to stitch width, length, and needle position, the artista 630/640/730 sewing computer remembers changes to the Mirror Image and Pattern Repeat functions. Temporary Altered Memory will be explored further in Class 6, artista Extras.

Return the active stitch to default settings by touching clr (clear).

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

28

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Your

BERNINA

Temporary Altered Stitch Memory Sample

®

(

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Heart -- 32 46 85 127 156 712 712 712 Stitch

Pattern End -- -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes

Mirror -- -- -- yes yes yes yes yes yes Image

Pattern -- -- -- -- -- -- yes yes yes Extend

Temporary -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes Stitch Memory

artista 630/640/730

)

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 29

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Class 1

Product Reference List

General Information

 Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3  BERNINA  BERNINA  BERNINA  BERNINA  BERNINA  BERNINA  BERNINA  bernette  Deluxe Accessory Box  Thread Storage Box  Bobbins  Magnetic Pin Cushion  Magnetic Bobbin Holder  Straight Stitch Plate  Seam Sealant  Thread Stand  Supplementary Thread Guide  Multi-Spool Thread Holder  Left Seam Guide  Seam Guide with Rulers (right and left)  Magnifying Lens Set  Suitcase System

®

Embroidery Foot #6

®

Darning Foot #9

®

Edgestitch Foot #10 or

®

Edgestitch Foot #10C

®

Open Embroidery Foot #20 or

®

Open Embroidery Foot #20C

®

Clear Embroidery Foot #39

®

Satin Stitch Foot

OESD Stabilizers

 Aqua Film (topping, backing)  Aqua Mesh  Aqua Mesh Plus (adhesive-backed)  Tear-Away (lightweight, medium weight)  Hydro-Stick Tear-Away  Stabil-Stick Tear-Away  Cut-Away (heavy weight)  Xtra Heavyweight Cut-Away  Hydro-Stick Cut-Away  Stabil-Stick Cut-Away  Poly Mesh  Fusible Poly Mesh  HRFive Temporary Adhesive Spray  606 Spray and Fix  Fabric Shield

Thread

 Isacord Polyester  YLI (variety)  Mettler Cotton Embroidery  Mettler Metrosene Polyester  Mettler Silk-finish Cotton

Your

BERNINA

®

Needles

 Universal 60/70/80/90/100/110/120  Double 1.6/2.0/2.5/3.0/4.0/6.0/8.0  Wing Single/Double  Embroidery 75/90  Quilting 75/90  Stretch 70/75/80/90  Ballpoint 60/70/80/90/100

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06

Quilters’ Resource Nifty Notions Scissors

 Dressmaker’s shears  Trimming scissors  Applique Scissors

30

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Class 2

Practical Stitching

Class Overview

Stretch Seam Samples

1 Zigzag Seam 2 Super Stretch Seam 3 Vari-Overlock Seam 4 Flat Joining Seam

Hem & Edging Samples

5 Blind Hem 6 Handpicked Hem 7 Double Needle Hem 8 Jeans Hem 9 Shell Edge 10 Rolled and Whipped Edge

Your

BERNINA

®

This class is formatted for owners of the following BERNINA® sewing machine models:

• classic 1008

• activa 220

• activa 230PE

• activa 240

• aurora 430

• aurora 440QE

• artista 630

• artista 640

• artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed

This class is also formatted for owners of the

following bernette® sewing machine models:

• 55 • 65 • 80e • 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 31

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Zigzag Seam

Fabric ........................................................... firm knit fabric 4” x 6”

Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal

Thread ...........................................................................all-purpose

Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or #1C

......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot

Stitch .................................................................................. zigzag

Needle Position .................................................................... center

Cut the fabric piece in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Select the Zigzag Stitch – stitch width of 1.5mm and stitch length of approximately 1.5mm (generally between 1.4mm and 1.6mm).

Position the fabric to produce a 5/8” seam down one side.

Stitch the seam.

Clip one seam allowance in the middle.

Press one part of the seam open and leave the other half closed so the stitch is visible.

Trim and mount the sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

32

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Zigzag Seam Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Zigzag 3333

Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Zigzag 222222222

Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 33

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

BERNINA® models only

Super Stretch Seam

Fabric .....................................................heavy double knit, 4” x 6”

Needle .................................................................... 80/12 Universal

Thread ........................................................................... all-purpose

Presser Foot .................. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Stitch .................................................................................. stretch

Needle Position .....................................................................center

Cut fabric in half lengthwise creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.

Select the Stretch Stitch.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Position the fabric to produce a 5/8” seam down one side.

Stitch the seam; if fabric stretches, lighten the presser foot pressure (if available).

Clip one seam allowance in the middle and press one part of the seam open.

Trim and mount the sample.

Note: This stitch is good for an open seam on all knit fabrics; works well for sportswear.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

34

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Super Stretch Seam Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Super --99999111111

Stretch

Stitch

Presser -- -- -- -- yes yes yes yes yes

Foot Pressure

Control

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 35

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Vari-Overlock Seam

Fabric .......................................................... cotton interlock 4” x 6”

ribbing, 2” x 6”

Needle .................................................................... 80/12 Universal

Thread ........................................................................... all-purpose

Presser Foot ....................... BERNINA® Overlock Foot #2 or #2A

.................................................bernette® Overcasting Foot

Stitch ...................................................... vari-overlock or overlock

Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Cut an inside curve in one corner of fabric to simulate a neckline.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Select the Vari-Overlock Stitch.

If available, engage the Needle Down function.

Place folded ribbing along the curved edge of the fabric (ribbing and fabric, right sides together).

BERNINA®: Guide the raw edges of the fabric under the pin of

the foot and stitch. If available, use the FHS (Free Hand System) to maneuver the curve.

bernette

stitch length and width if needed. Adjust the fabrics as needed.

Trim the sample and mount as shown.

®

: Guide the fabric against the blade of the foot. Adjust

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

36

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Vari-Overlock Seam Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Overlock 5666 Stitch

Needle -- -- yes yes Up/Down

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

VariOverlock 333333333 Stitch

Needle -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes Up/Down

Freehand -- optional optional yes yes yes yes yes yes System

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 37

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Flat Joining Seam

Fabric ...................................... two pieces terry cloth, 4” x 6” each

Needle .................................................................. 90/14 Universal

Thread ...........................................................................all-purpose

Presser Foot ............. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C or

........................................ BERNINA® Clear Foot #34/34C

........................................ bernette ® Zigzag/Universal Foot

Stitches......................................stretch overlock or towelling stitch

Needle Position .................................................................... center

Select the Stretch Overlock stitch.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Cut a 5/8” seam allowance off one piece of fabric along one long edge.

Mark a line on the other piece of fabric, 5/8” from one long edge. This will be the right-hand piece of fabric.

Overlap the fabric edges left over right, aligning the left raw edge with the drawn line on the right-hand piece.

Stitch along the raw edge. Turn the fabric over and stitch along the remaining raw edge.

NOTE: This is a great seam technique to use on bulky fabrics

such as terry cloth.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

38

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Flat Joining Seam Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Stretch 10 13 S5 S5 Overlock Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Stretch 11 15 17 19 -- 23 13 13 13 Overlock Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 39

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Blind Hem

Fabric .....................................................................heavy flannel, 6” x 8”

Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread ............................................. 60 weight cotton embroidery thread

Foot ....... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C (1008, 640 & 730) or

BERNINA

.......................... BERNINA® Blind Hem Foot #5 (all models)

..................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot and

..................................................... bernette® Blind Hem Foot

Stitch ............................................................................................zigzag

...................................................................................... blindstitch

Needle Position ........................................................................ as needed

®

Darning Foot #9 (220/230/240, 430/440 & 630) and

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Finish one 6” edge of the fabric by oversewing with a zigzag stitch (see pages 20-21).

Fold a 2” hem to the wrong side of the fabric and press.

BERNINA

Select a Basting Stitch (see pages 26-27) and baste hem in place, sewing about ¼” from the raw edge.

Select the Blindstitch and attach Blind Hem Foot #5 to machine.

Fold hem back to the right side over the basting line.

Sew on the extended hem allowance, keeping the folded edge next to the guide on the foot.

Adjust the stitch width (BERNINA®) or white guide (bernette®) if needed so that the needle barely stitches into the fold.

®

bernette

Select a Basting Stitch (see pages 26-27) and baste the hem in place, sewing about ¼” from the raw edge.

Select Blindstitch and attach blindhem foot to the machine. Lengthen blindstitch to 5mm.

®

Mount the sample with the edges folded back as shown.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

40

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Blind Hem Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Zigzag 3333 Stitch

Blindstitch 4 5 12 13

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Zigzag 222222222 Stitch

Basting -- 16 19 21 19 21 30 21 21 Stitch

Blindstitch 377777999

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 41

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Handpicked Hem

Fabric .............................................. lightweight broadcloth, 6” x 8”

Needle .................................................................... 80/12 Universal

Thread .................................... 60 weight cotton embroidery thread

Presser Foot ................................ BERNINA

................................................... bernette® Blind Hem Foot

Stitch ............................................................................. blindstitch

Needle Position .............................................................. as needed

Turn up a 1” hem along one of the 6” edges and press.

®

Blind Hem Foot #5

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Turn up the depth of the hem again and press.

Fold the entire hem toward the right side of the garment, so that the garment fold is almost even with the top edge of the hem. A scant 1/8” to 1/16” of hem edge should be visible. This will ensure that both folds are caught by the blind hem stitch.

Place the fabric under the foot just as a traditional blind hem would be placed.

Sew the hem with Blindstitch, making sure that the zigzag catches both folds while the straight stitch falls off the edge and stitches in air forming a chain along the upper hem edge. Adjust stitch width if needed.

Press and mount the sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

42

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Handpicked Hem Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Blindstitch 4 5 12 13

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Blindstitch 377777999

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 43

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Double Needle Hem

Fabric ........................................................ cotton interlock, 6” x 8”

Needle ..................................................................... Double, 3.0/80

Thread ............................................................ all-purpose, 2 colors

®

Presser Foot .................. BERNINA

..........................................

Stitches........................................................................... as needed

Needle Position .....................................................................center

Turn up a 2” hem along one of the 6” edges and press.

bernette

Thread the needles with two different colors of thread.

If available, select the Double Needle Limitation or Security Program, and set for the 3.0mm Double Needle. Note: If these features are not available, check to be sure the

Place the folded edge of the fabric along the 1” guideline on the right side of the stitch plate. (bernette® 55 only: The 1” guide is the one farthest from the needle.)

®

only: When threading the right needle, skip last guide.

needles will not strike the foot by turning the handwheel to “walk” the machine through the first stitch.

Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

bernette

®

Zigzag/Universal Foot

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

Manual

Double Needle

“Limitation”

To calculate the maximum stitch width which can be stitched by any Double needle, subtract the width of the needle from the maximum stitch width of your sewing machine.

For example:

5.5mm - 2.0mm = 3.5mm

®

Select the straight stitch; sew half of the hem.

Select the suggested stitch or experiment with similar stitches; stitch the remainder of the seam.

Trim excess fabric from the wrong side of the hem.

Press and mount the sample.

Note: This is a good stitch to use when hemming T-shirts and

pajamas. You can use other stitches with a double needle for other types of fabrics.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

Double Needle

Threading

Use a supplementary spool holder and attach a supplementary thread guide to the machine, if available. Thread as usual, placing one thread to the left of the tension disc and through the eye of the left needle; thread the other to the right of the tension disk and through the eye of the right needle.

44

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Double Needle Hem Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

Suggested 5444 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight 111111111 Stitch

Suggested 744444161616 Stitch

Specialty -- -- -- -- -- -- security security security Needle Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 45

®

55 65 80e 90e

SL = 2.5 SL = 2.5 SL = 2.5 SL = 2.5 SL = 2.5

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Jeans Hem

Fabric ...................................................................... denim, 4” x 6”

Needle ..................................................... Jeans, 100/16 or 110/18

Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose

Presser Foot ........................................ BERNINA

..................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot or

........................................................ bernette® Quilting Foot

Stitch ................................................................................ straight

Needle Position .................................................................... center

Cut fabric in two pieces, 4” x 3” each.

®

Jeans Foot #8

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Insert a Jeans needle and select the Straight Stitch.

With right sides together, sew a 5/8” seam along one 4” side. Press seam to one side.

Topstitch, using the edge of the foot along the seam as a guide, and stitching through the seam allowances.

Turn up the lower edge twice, about 3/8” each time.

Topstitch the hem in place, about 1/8” from the upper edge of the hem.

Press and mount the sample.

Hint: Sew toward the “gradual rise” of thick seams rather than

toward the thickest part of the seam. Use the Height Compensation Tool (included with your machine) to keep the presser foot level; this helps keep the foot in contact with the fabric, and the fabric in contact with the feed dog.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

46

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Jeans Hem Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight 111111111 Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 47

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Shell Edge

Fabric ............................................................... nylon tricot, 6” x 4”

Stabilizer ............................................................. Aqua Film, 2” x 6”

Needle .................................................................... 80/12 Universal

Thread ........................................................................... all-purpose

Presser Foot ......................... BERNINA

.......................................................bernette® Hemmer Foot

Stitch ................................... BERNINA® blindstitch (or overlock)

.................................................... bernette® shell hem stitch

Needle Position .............................................................. as needed

®

Shell Hemmer Foot #69

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

BERNINA

Select Blindstitch (SW 4mm; leave SL at default setting). Engage Vertical (Left/Right) Mirror Image function if available.

Alternative: Select the overlock stitch (SW 4mm, SL 3.5 mm). Note: The longer the stitch length, the larger the shells.

Pull on the fabric a bit to see which way the edge curls. Be sure to hem “with the curl” rather than against it.

Place the Aqua Film under the edge of the hem, extending about 2” beyond the back edge of the fabric; baste layers together along the back edge.

Twirl the stabilizer into the scroll of the hemmer foot – the Aqua Film is stiff enough to easily move into the coil. Begin stitching, using the Aqua Film to guide the fabric edge into the coil of the foot.

®

bernette

Select the Shell Hem stitch (stitch width = 4mm; leave stitch length at default setting).

Increase/tighten the upper thread tension to 6-8.

®

If necessary, increase/tighten the needle thread tension to create more defined scallops. Remember to return to normal setting after completing this sample.

Trim and mount the sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

48

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Shell Edge Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Shell Hem 6655

Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Blindstitch 377777999

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 49

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Rolled and Whipped Edge

Fabric .................................................... lightweight cotton, 6” x 4”

Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal

Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose

Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C

......................................... bernette® Clear Satin Stitch Foot

Stitch .................................................................................. zigzag

Needle Position ......................................................................... left

Clean one 6” lengthwise edge of “whiskers”

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Select the Zigzag Stitch (BERNINA® SW = 2.5mm and SL = 1mm or less; bernette® SW = 3.5mm and SL = buttonhole setting).

Loosen the top tension if necessary.

BERNINA

Place cut edge of fabric between the center and left toes of the presser foot and sew.

Notes:

- The left swing of the needle should be in the fabric, while the

right swing falls off of the right edge of the fabric.

- As needle swings left, it should roll fabric into a tiny rolled edge.

- The finer the fabric, the finer the needle and thread used.

Trim and mount the sample.

This edge finish is used on a single thickness of fine lightweight fabrics. It is also use as a seam finish or as an edge on ruffles, hems, etc.

®

bernette

Place cut edge of fabric against the inside of the right toe of the foot and sew.

®

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

50

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Rolled and Whipped Edge Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Zigzag 3333 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Zigzag 222222222 Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 51

®

55 65 80e 90e

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Class 2

Product Reference List

Practical Stitching

 Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3

 BERNINA® Vari-Overlock Foot #2 or

 BERNINA® Vari-Overlock Foot #2A

 BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3 or

 BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3C

 BERNINA® Jeans Foot #8

 BERNINA® Edgestitch Foot #10 or

Thread

 All-Purpose

 Mettler 60 weight Cotton Embroidery

Double Needles

 2.0mm

 2.5mm

Your

BERNINA

®

 BERNINA® Edgestitch Foot #10C

 BERNINA® Clear Foot #34 or

 BERNINA® Clear Foot #34C

 BERNINA® Shell Hemmer Foot #69

 bernette® Clear Satin Stitch Foot

 bernette® Blind Hem Foot

 bernette® Overcasting Foot

 bernette® Quilting Foot

 bernette® Hemmer Foot

 Stitch Witchery - 5/8” roll

 Rotary Cutter

 Rotary Cutting Mat

 Clear, Gridded Ruler

 Aqua Film Stabilizer

 3.0mm

 4.0mm

 6.0mm (artista 640 and 730 only)

 8.0mm (artista 640 and 730 only)

Jeans Needles

 90/14

 100/16

 Double

Seam Pressing Tools

 BERNINA® Iron

 Seam Pressing Stick

Hem Gauges

 Curved Hem Ruler

 6” Sewing Gauge

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06

52

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Class 3

More Practical Stitching

Class Overview

Elastic Samples

1 Elastic Edging 2 Turned Under Elastic

Buttonhole & Eyelet Types & Uses

Buttonhole Feet

Your

BERNINA

®

Sizing Buttonholes

Buttonhole Samples

3 Manual Buttonhole/Corded Buttonhole 4 Automatic Buttonhole 5 Memory Buttonhole 6 Straight Stitch Buttonhole 7 Button Sew-On

Zipper Samples

8 Centered Zipper 9 Invisible Zipper

Mending

10 Darning

This class is formatted for owners of the following BERNINA® sewing machine models:

• classic 1008

• activa 220

• activa 230PE

• activa 240

• aurora 430

• aurora 440QE

• artista 630

• artista 640

• artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 53

This class is also formatted for owners of the

following bernette® sewing machine models:

• 55 • 65 • 80e • 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Elastic Edging

Fabric ...............................................................nylon tricot, 6” x 4”

Notions ................................................................. 9” of elastic lace

Needle ................................................... 80/12 Balllpoint or Stretch

Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose

Presser Foot ................. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

......................................................

Stitch ................................................................................ running

Needle Position .................................................................... center

Select the Running stitch (SW = 5mm, SL = 3.5 to 4mm).

bernette

®

Zigzag/Universal Foot

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

BERNINA

Engage the Needle Down function, if available.

Position the elastic wrong side down on the right side of the tricot along one of the 6” edges.

Leave a tail of elastic at the back of the presser foot for a “handle”.

Position the elastic so the stitching is at the bottom edge of the elastic lace.

Stretch the elastic lace gently, as it is being sewn.

After stitching, trim the surplus tricot from the wrong side of the elastic lace, close to the stitching.

Mount the sample.

®

bernette

Engage the Needle Down function after stopping.

®

80e & 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

54

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Elastic Edging Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Running 5444 Stitch

Needle -- -- yes yes Down/Up Function

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Running 744444444 Stitch

Needle -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes Down/Up Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 55

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Turned Under Elastic

Fabric ............................................. lycra (cotton or nylon), 6” x 4”

Notions .............................. 9” of cotton swimwear elastic, ½” wide

Needle ................................................... 80/12 Ballpoint or Stretch

Thread ..........................................................................all-purpose

Presser Foot ................. BERNINA

.......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot

Stitch ................................................................................. zigzag

Needle Position ....................................BERNINA® only: far right

Select the zigzag stitch #2 (SW = 3.5 to 4mm and SL = 3.5 to 4mm). BERNINA® only: Set the needle position to the far right.

®

Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Position the elastic on the wrong side of the fabric, along one 6” edge.

Allow a 2” tail of elastic to extend beyond the fabric. Lower the presser foot; this will hold the elastic in place.

Sew the elastic to the fabric, keeping the edge of the elastic and the edge of the fabric together, and stretching elastic in front of the foot to simulate the leg of an exercise leotard or swimsuit.

If stopping midway, use the Needle Down function (if available) to hold the elastic and fabric in place.

Fold the elastic to the wrong side and overstitch the elastic from the right side using a sewn-out zigzag, lycra, or running stitch with a length of 3.5 to 4mm. The left side of the stitch should sew off the edge of the elastic, stitching only into the fabric.

If available, adjust the presser foot pressure and/or stitch length as needed if elastic stretches out as it is sewn.

Note: This same technique can be used for a turned waistband, using wider elastic.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

56

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Turned Under Elastic Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Zigzag 3333 Stitch

Needle -- -- yes yes Down/Up

Overstitch 5444 Options

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Zigzag 222 222222 Stitch

Needle -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes Down/Up

Overstitch 7 4, 18 4, 21 4, 24, 25 25 27 16 16 16 Options

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 57

®

55 65 80e 90e

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Buttonholes & Eyelets

Types & Uses

STANDARD BUTTONHOLE

Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, trousers, bed linens.

HEIRLOOM BUTTONHOLE

Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, dresses, trousers, children’s and baby clothes, doll clothes, heirloom work.

STRETCH BUTTONHOLE

All stretch fabrics made from cotton, wool, silk, and synthetic fibers.

ROUND BUTTONHOLE WITH NORMAL BARTACK

Medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear.

Your

BERNINA

®

ROUND BUTTONHOLE WITH HORIZONTAL BARTACK

Medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear.

KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH NORMAL BARTACK

Heavy weight, non-stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, trousers, leisure wear.

KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH POINTED BARTACK

Non-stretch firm fabric. Jackets, coats, leisure wear.

KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH HORIZONTAL BARTACK

Firm, non-stretch fabrics. jackets, coats, leisure wear.

STRAIGHT STITCH BUTTONHOLE

For prestitching buttonholes and pocket openings. For bound buttonholes & welt pockets.

HAND-LOOK BUTTONHOLE

For light- to medium-weight woven fabrics. Blouses, dresses, leisure wear, bedding, crafts

BUTTON SEW-ON PROGRAM

For flat buttons with 2 and 4 holes. For sewing on snaps, hooks, and charms.

NARROW ZIGZAG EYELET

Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, other decorative work.

STRAIGHT STITCH EYELET

Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, other decorative work.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06

58

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

BERNINA® Buttonhole Feet

A number of buttonhole feet are available for BERNINA® sewing machines. The descriptions below will help differentiate between the various feet.

BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3

The standard 5mm buttonhole foot. Works with any BERNINA sewing machine.

BUTTONHOLE FOOT WITH SLIDE #3B

5mm foot with a movable slide indicating buttonhole length, making it easy to sew a series of identical buttonholes. For any BERNINA recommended for 1008 and other mechanical models.

®

sewing machine; especially

®

BUTTONHOLE FEET

Included with the

artista 630

Snap-on version

included with

1008 & activa 220

BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3C

The standard 9mm buttonhole foot. “C” indicates a “coded” foot with a light sensor that allows 9mm wide stitching. For models 1630, artista 180, 185 & 730.

AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3C

The automatic buttonhole foot for older models with a 9mm feed system, indicated by the letter “C”. Works with 1630 and artista 180.

Your

BERNINA

Included with

artista 640

and 730

®

AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3A

Automatic foot for older machines with a 5mm and 9mm feed system. “A” indicates an “automatic” foot, with a light sensor for counting stitches. Works with models 1130-1530 and 150-170QE.

bernette

4-STEP BUTTONHOLE FOOT

5mm foot with a movable slide indicating buttonhole length, making it easy to sew a series of identical buttonholes. For the

bernette

®

55 sewing machine.

AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT WITH SLIDE #3A

Combines the handy slide measuring system of Buttonhole Foot #3B with the electronic sensor of the older Automatic Buttonhole Feet #3A and #3C. Works with models 135PE/145 and 150-730, as well as current models indicated below.

Included with activa 230 & 240,

aurora 430 & 440QE,

artista 630, 640, and 730

®

Buttonhole Feet

AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT

The automatic buttonhole foot for

bernette

the sewing machines.

®

65, 80e, and 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 59

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Manual/Corded Buttonhole

Fabric .................................................................... heavy flannel, 6” x 8”

Stabilizer..................................................... lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”

Notions ........................................................................... 10” of gimp cord

...................................................................................... ½” button

Needle ............................................................................ 90/14 Universal

Thread ................................. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot..................... BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C

...................................

Stitches..................................... standard buttonhole, keyhole buttonhole

Needle Position .............................................................................. center

Fold the fabric in half to 4 ” x 6”. Press; insert the stabilizer between the layers. Draw a line 1½” from the fold along the 6” length. Draw a 2nd line 1” from 1st line. Mark 3 horizontal lines, between fold and drawn line, spaced about 2” apart.

bernette® 55 only: 4-step buttonhole foot

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

BERNINA

Select the standard buttonhole; select the man function from the function toolbar, if applicable.

Position the foot over the first short line, aligning the fold of the fabric with the 5/8” marking on the stitch plate, behind the foot.

Sew the first side of the buttonhole, engaging step #1.Stop at the drawn line and select step #2. Continue stitching remaining buttonhole steps.

BERNINA® & bernette

Fold cord in half and loop middle around center “toe” of foot [bernette loop cord at back of foot; lock in front grooves and tie ends in front]. Stitch buttonhole on second line as before, then carefully remove fabric from under foot. Pull ends of cord until loop is pulled up under buttonhole; trim ends of cord. If working on a knit fabric, knot ends of cord together before trimming.

®

Standard Buttonhole

®

55 Corded Buttonhole

bernette® 55 Standard Buttonhole

Select buttonhole; set SW = 5 and SL = buttonhole.

Position foot over 1st short line, aligning needle with 1½” line.

• Select step 1; sew bartack.

• Select step 2; sew left side of buttonhole, stopping at 2nd long line.

• Select step 3; sew bartack.

• Select step 4; sew right side.

When stitching is complete, remove fabric from under the foot. Bring thread tails to the back and tie off.

®

55 –

BERNINA

®

Buttonholes

There are slight variations in the buttonhole stitching sequences on different BERNINA® sewing machine models. On most models, turn the buttonhole knob or press and release the Quick Reverse button to move from one step to the next. See Owner’s Manual for detailed instructions for your machine.

BERNINA® Keyhole Buttonhole

Select keyhole buttonhole if available; select man function from function toolbar, if applicable. Place third short line under presser foot as before. Sew keyhole buttonhole on 2nd marked line. Cut 1 buttonhole open. Trim and mount sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

60

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Manual/Corded Buttonhole Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Standard 1111 Buttonhole

Manual yes -- -- -- Buttonhole

Auto -- yes yes yes Buttonhole

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Standard dial 10 10 10 10 10 51 51 51 Buttonhole

Keyhole -- 11 11 13 13 14 56 56 56 Buttonhole

Manual yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes Buttonhole

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 61

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Automatic Buttonhole

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

Fabric ............................................ BERNINA® cotton interlock, 6” x 8”

............................ BERNINA

®

& bernette

®

heavy flannel, 6” x 8”

...... BERNINA® fine linen/batiste, 6” x 8” (aurora & artista only)

Stabilizer ................................................................. 3 pieces, 4” x 6” each

Needle ............................................................................ 90/14 Universal

Thread ................................. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot.............. BERNINA® Automatic Buttonhole with Slide #3A

............................................ bernette® automatic buttonhole foot

Buttonholes ............. stretch, standard, handlook (aurora & artista only)

Needle Position .............................................................................. center

Preparation

Fold each fabric in half to 4” x 6”. Press; insert stabilizer between layers. Draw a line 1½” from the fold along the 6” length. Mark two horizontal lines, running between the fold and the drawn line, about 2” apart.

BERNINA

Note: 1008 & activa 220 do not have an Automatic Buttonhole feature.

Stretch Buttonhole (cotton interlock) Position foot over the first short line; align fabric fold with 5/8” marking behind foot. Sew buttonhole.

®

bernette® 65/80e/90e

Select the buttonhole; set SW = 5 and SL = buttonhole setting.

Automatic Standard Buttonhole

Position the foot over the first short line, aligning the needle (front end of buttonhole) with the long drawn line.

Notes

Stop at the horizontal line; press Quick Reverse button – this programs length. Continue sewing – buttonhole is completed automatically.

Sew the programmed buttonhole on the second line.

Keyhole Buttonhole (heavy flannel) Stitch a buttonhole on the first line; sew programmed buttonhole on the second line. Note: To determine the

buttonhole length, calculate bead length only; eye will sew accordingly.

Handlook Buttonhole (linen/batiste) (aurora 430/440 & artista 630/640/730) Stitch buttonhole on first line; sew programmed buttonhole on 2nd line.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

• Open button plate and insert button.

• Lower buttonhole lever and push it toward the back of the machine.

• Stitch buttonhole; the machine will complete buttonhole automatically.

When stitching is complete, remove fabric from under the presser foot. Bring thread tails to back and tie off.

Push lever up when not in use.

Corded Automatic Buttonhole

Fold cord in half and loop at back of foot; lock in front grooves and tie ends.

Stitch as above. Tie off as described at the bottom of page 60.

62

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Automatic Buttonhole Samples

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Standard 1111 Buttonhole

Manual yes -- -- -- Buttonhole

Auto -- yes yes yes Buttonhole

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Automatic -- -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes Buttonhole

Standard dial 10 10 10 10 10 51 51 51 Buttonhole

Handlook -- -- -- -- 15 16 63 63 63 Buttonhole

Stretch -- -- -- 12 12 12 53 53 53 Buttonhole

®

55 65 80e 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 63

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

®

BERNINA

models only

Memory Buttonhole

Fabric ........................................................... heavy woven, 6” x 8”

Stabilizer ............................................lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”

Needle ................................................................... 90/14 Universal

Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot ......................... Automatic Buttonhole with Slide #3A

Stitch ............................................................ standard buttonhole

........................................................... any other buttonhole

Needle Position .................................................................... center

Fold the fabric in half to 4” x 6”. Insert the stabilizer between the fabric layers. Mark 4 lines on the fabric where the buttonholes will be sewn.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Temporary Buttonhole Memory

Select the Standard Buttonhole; sew a buttonhole of the desired length on the first line.

Sew the programmed buttonhole again on the second line. The machine will remember this length until a new measurement is programmed or until the machine is turned off.

Long Term Buttonhole Memory

Select any buttonhole; sew a buttonhole of the desired length on the third line.

To save buttonhole in Long Term Memory, touch the appropriate symbol or button for your machine.

Turn machine off, then on again.

Select the same buttonhole; sew it again on the fourth line and compare the size to the previous buttonhole.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

64

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Memory Buttonhole Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Standard dial 10 10 10 10 10 51 51 51 Buttonhole

Long Term -- -- mem mem mem mem save save save Memory Buttonhole

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 65

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

BERNINA® models only

Straight Stitch Buttonhole

Fabric ................................................... firm, woven fabric, 4” x 6”

Stabilizer ........................................... lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”

Needle ................................................................... 90/14 Universal

Thread ........................ 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot .................Automatic Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A

Stitch ................................................................................ straight

Needle Position ....................................................................center

Mark two lines perpendicular to the fold, spaced about 2” apart.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Attach Automatic Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A/3C to machine.

Select the Straight Stitch Buttonhole.

Stitch a buttonhole, positioning the beginning of it on the first line, aligning the fold with the 5/8” marking behind the foot.

Position the needle on the second line. Stitch another straight stitch buttonhole - do not remove fabric.

Select the Standard Buttonhole - sew this buttonhole (the same length as the straight stitch buttonhole) directly on top of the straight stitch buttonhole.

Notes:

- Straight stitch buttonholes can be used to pre-sew and reinforce buttonholes on fabrics that fray easily. The buttonhole beads and bartacks will cover the stitching. Any method for determining buttonhole length can be used.

- Straight stitch buttonholes can be used as buttonholes on imitation suede and leather.

- The distance between the prestitched lines can be adjusted with the stitch width. The stitch length can also be adjusted to suit the fabric.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

66

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Straight Stitch Buttonhole Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight -- -- 12 14 14 15 59 59 59 Stitch Buttonhole

Standard dial 10 10 10 10 10 51 51 51 Buttonhole

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 67

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Button Sew-On

Fabric ..................................................... firm, woven fabric 4” x 6”

Stabilizer ............................................lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”

Notions .................... button, charm, hook/eye, 6” of narrow ribbon

Needle ................................................................... 90/14 Universal

Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot ....................... BERNINA® Button Sew-On Foot #18

............................................... bernette® button sew-on foot

Stitch .................. button sew on program (or universal or zigzag)

Needle Position .................................................................... center

Lower the feed dogs, then attach the button sew-on foot to the machine. Select the button the sew-on stitch. If not available, select the universal or zigzag stitch.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Fold fabric in half to 2” x 6”; press. Insert stabilizer between layers.

Technique #1 – With Thread Shank

Optional: Use a glue stick to hold a button in place.

BERNINA® only: Adjust the pin on Button Sew-On Foot #18 to

the highest position for a long shank. Note: A short shank can be

made for dresses and blouses or a long shank can be made for heavier fabrics such as coats and blazers.

All BERNINA® & bernette the holes of the button by turning the hand wheel; adjust the stitch width if necessary. Hold the thread tails as you begin to sew.

If using the button sew-on stitch, the machine stops automatically when program is complete; threads are secured as part of the program.

If using the universal or zigzag stitch, sew 6-8 stitches, stop, and tie threads on the wrong side to secure; trim excess thread

Technique #2 – Without Thread Shank

Using the lowest shank setting and the instructions above, attach a charm, a ribbon, and a hook-and-eye to the same fabric.

®

Machines: Check distance between

Mount the sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

68

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Button Sew-On Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Universal --766 Stitch

Zigzag 3333 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Button -- 12 13 15 16 17 60 60 60 Sew-On Stitch

Universal 4 1720232426151515 Stitch

Zigzag 222222222 Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 69

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Centered Zipper

Fabric .......................................two pieces of firm, woven fabric, 6” x 8”

Other ......................................................................... 9” neckline zipper

Needle ............................................................................ 90/14 Universal

Thread ................................. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot........................... BERNINA

........................................................BERNINA

....................................BERNINA

....................................................

....................................................................

Stitch ......................................................................................... straight

Needle Position ....................................... far left or far right, as indicated

Other ................................................ Collins Wash-Away Wonder Tape

®

Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

®

Zipper Foot with Guide #14

bernette

®

Zipper Foot #4

®

zigzag/universal foot

bernette

®

zipper foot

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Attaching the Zipper

Using BERNINA® Foot #1/1C or bernette® zigzag/universal foot and a straight stitch, sew seam from bottom to where zipper stop will be. Select a basting stitch

(see pages 18-19); continue stitching to within ½” from top of seam. Change back to a regular length stitch; sew the rest of the way to secure.

Press seam open; place right side of zipper against seam allowance so zipper teeth are centered over the seam. Pin or baste (using Wonder Tape) each side of zipper to seam allowance only.

Change to zipper foot; adjust needle/foot position to right or left as needed to stitch close to zipper teeth. Sew through zipper tape and seam allowance only, from bottom to top on each side. Pin or baste through all layers.

Topstitching the Zipper

BERNINA

Change to Zipper Foot with Guide #14.

Left Side: Adjust seam guide 1 notch right of center. Adjust needle position to far left. Sewing from right side of fabric and starting at lower edge, sink needle into the seam. Sew out from zipper stop about 3/8”, stop, pivot and make sure seam guide lying in ditch of seam. Sew up left side of zipper.

Right Side: Adjust guide one notch to left of center; move needle position to far right. Repeat above steps, starting at seam and sewing to the right.

®

bernette

Left Side: Adjust foot to left of center. Sewing from right side of fabric and starting at lower edge, sink needle into the seam. Sew out from zipper stop about 3/8”, stop, pivot and make sure the edge of the foot is lying in the ditch of the seam. Sew up left side of zipper.

Right Side: Adjust foot to right of center. Repeat above steps, starting at seam and sewing to the right.

Mount sample, attaching only at top.

®

Mount sample, attaching only at top.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

70

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Centered Zipper Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight 111111111 Stitch

Needle 59991111111111 Positions

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 71

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

BERNINA® models only

Invisible Zipper

Fabric ................................. two pieces of firm, woven fabric, 6” x 8”

Other ................................................................ 9” invisible zipper

Needle ............................................................................ 90/14 Universal

Thread ................................. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot...................................................... Invisible Zipper Foot #35

...................................................... Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C

........................................................ Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Stitch ......................................................................................... straight

Needle Position ....................................................................... as needed

Note: The invisible zipper can be used in place of a conventional zipper when an uninterrupted design line is desired.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Zipper Insertion

Mark seam lines on right side of fabric. Select the Straight Stitch. Open zipper. It is not necessary to press coils as with other invisible zipper applications. Invisible Zipper Foot #35 has specially designed grooves that guide the zipper coils out of the way as the tape is stitched in place. Note: Do not sew the seam first as with conventional zippers.

Invisible zipper tapes are sewn to fabric sections first, then seam is sewn.

With right sides together, baste or pin the right zipper tape to the right garment piece, so coil is on the

Using center needle position, place coil in right groove of Foot #35. Sew until foot is stopped by the zipper pull. Note: Needle should sew

close to, but not into, the zipper coils.

With right sides together, baste or pin the left zipper tape to the left garment piece so that the coil is again on the

Check to be sure the zipper is not twisted. Place the coil in the left groove of the foot and complete as with the right side.

Completing Seam

Close zipper. Using Bulky Overlock Foot #12 or #12C, place fabric right sides together and stitch as close to the zipper as possible, starting about ½” above the bottom of the zipper. It may be necessary to move the needle position to the left slightly. Backstitch to begin and sew about 2”; then change to Foot #1C to complete the seam. Press and trim the sample. Mount it, attaching it only at the top. You can then lift the sample and use it as a reference.

5

/8” seam line.

5

/8” seam line.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

72

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Invisible Zipper Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight 111111111 Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 73

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Darning

Fabric .............................................................. firm, woven fabric 4” x 6”

Interfacing ........................................ fusible tricot knit interfacing, 3” x 4”

Needle ............................................................................ 90/14 Universal

Thread ................................. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot.............................................. BERNINA

®

................................... BERNINA

®

.............. BERNINA

Automatic Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A

..............................................

............................................................

Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

bernette

®

bernette

Stitch ......................................................................................... straight

............................................................... simple darning program

.......................................................... reinforced darning program

Needle Position .............................................................................. center

®

Darning Foot #9

embroidery/darning foot

®

satin stitch foot

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Preparation: Make a ½” hole in the fabric; make 2 tears about 1” each.

Manual Darning

Attach darning foot to machine. Lower feed dog; select straight stitch. Bond fusible knit interfacing to wrong side of fabric, behind round hole. Hoop fabric to prevent distortion. Stitch, moving the hoop up and down, then side to side without pressure. Raise feed dog when finished.

BERNINA

Simple Darning

Select the simple darning program, if available, for the first tear. Attach Foot #1/1C or #3A. Engage appropriate symbol for your machine.

Sew 1st row the length of tear – press & release Quick Reverse at end of row; length is now programmed. Complete darning program – machine stops automatically.

Reinforced Darning

Select Reinforced Darning Program for second tear. Use Foot #3A.

Insert needle to left of top of tear. Begin sewing; notice that running stitch is sewn first.

®

bernette

Darning with Sewn-Out Zigzag

Select the 3-step zigzag for the first tear. Attach the satin stitch foot to the machine.

Sew first row of stitching the length of the tear, through middle of tear.

Sew a second and third row, overlapping the first row on each side.

Stitch a fourth and fifth row, overlapping the second and third rows on each side.

Continue until entire tear is covered.

®

When length of the tear has been covered, press Quick Reverse. Programming is complete and the machine will finish automatically.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

74

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Darning Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

3-Step 5444 Zigzag Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight 111111111 Stitch

Simple -- 13 15 17 18 20 22 22 22 Darning Program

Simple -- foot #1 foot #1 foot #1 foot #1 foot #1 foot #3 foot #3C foot #3A Darning Symbol auto auto auto auto auto counting... counting... recording

Reinforced -- -- -- -- -- -- 23 23 23 Darning Program recording recording recording

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 75

®

55 65 80e 90e

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Class 3

Product Reference List

More Practical Stitching

 Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3  BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3 or  BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3C  BERNINA® Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3B  BERNINA® Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C  BERNINA® Zipper Foot with Guide #14  BERNINA® Button Sew-On Foot #18  BERNINA® Invisible Zipper Foot #35  bernette® Zipper Foot  bernette® Embroidery/Darning Foot  bernette® Satin Stitch Foot  bernette® Button Sew-On Foot  bernette® Automatic Buttonhole Foot (65, 80e, 90e)  bernette® 4-Step Buttonhole Foot (55)

Your

BERNINA

®

 BERNINA® Iron

 Gimp or Pearl Crown Rayon  Stitch Witchery (narrow roll)  OESD Tear-Away Stabilizer  Buttonhole Space Tape  Buttonhole Placement Gauge  Marking Pens & Pencils  Applique Scissors  Seam Sealant  Glue Stick  Buttonhole Cutter & Block Set  Cotton Elastic  Collins Wash-A-Way Wonder Tape

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06

76

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Class 4

Decorative Techniques

Class Overview

Gathering Samples

1 Gathering Over One Cord 2 Gathering Over Two Cords 3 Gathering with the Gathering Foot 4 Gathering with BERNINA

Specialty Needle Samples

5 Pintucks & Double Needles 6 Triple (Drilling) Needle 7 Wing Needle/Double Wing Needle 8 Entreduex

®

Ruffler #86

Your

BERNINA

®

This class is formatted for owners of the following BERNINA® sewing machine models:

• classic 1008

• activa 220

• activa 230PE

• activa 240

• aurora 430

• aurora 440QE

• artista 630

• artista 640

• artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed

This class is also formatted for owners of the

following bernette® sewing machine models:

• 55 • 65 • 80e • 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 77

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Gathering Over One Cord

Fabric ........................................... medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”

Notions .......................................................................... 18” of cord

Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal

Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose

Presser Foot .......................... BERNINA® Embroidery Foot #6 or

.............................................. BERNINA® Clear Foot #39

.......................................................... bernette® cording foot

Stitch .................................................................................. zigzag

Needle Position .................................................................... center

Trim all four edges of sample fabric before beginning.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

BERNINA

Thread cord through the hole in Foot #6 OR #39, leaving a 2”-3” tail behind the foot.

Select the zigzag stitch and set SW = 2.5mm and SL = 2-2.5mm.

Stitch 5/8” from one 12” edge; sew over the cord.

Secure the cord at the beginning and then pull it to gather the sample to 6”.

Notes:

- Gathering over cord adds additional strength, eliminates thread breakage and allows better control of gathering.

- Drop the feed dog and sew a bartack at the beginning and end of cord for strength.

- Do not sew through cording.

®

bernette

Thread cord through center groove of cording foot, leaving a 2”-3” tail behind the foot.

®

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

78

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Gathering Over One Cord Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Zigzag 3333 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Zigzag 222222222 Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 79

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Gathering Over Two Cords

Fabric ........................................... medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”

Notions .......................................................................... 30” of cord

Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal

Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose

Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C

........................................................... bernette® cording foot

Stitch ........................................................ BERNINA® gathering

................................................................bernette® rampart

Needle Position .................................................................... center

Trim all 4 edges of the fabric piece with a wavy rotary cutter.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Place fabric under foot and lower the needle but not the foot.

BERNINA

Select the gathering sitch.

Fold cord in half and loop around the middle toe of foot #3C; lower the foot.

Lift cord loop from toe and pull cord forward leaving 3” tails behind the foot.

Begin to sew, allowing the two grooves of the buttonhole foot to guide the cord.

Sew along one 12” edge, 5/8” from the edge.

Pull on both cords to gather the sample to 6”.

®

bernette® 80e & 90e only:

Select the rampart stitch.

Fold cord in half. With loop behind the foot, position the cords in the left and right grooves.

Begin to sew, allowing the two grooves of the cording foot to guide the cord.

Note: Lower the feed dogs and sew a bartack at beginning and end of cord for strength.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

80

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Gathering Over Two Cords Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Rampart -- -- 8 8 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Gathering -- 14 16 18 21 22 12 12 12 Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 81

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Gathering with the Gathering Foot

Fabric .. 2 pieces medium weight cotton, one 4” x 6”, one 4” x 12”

Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal

Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose

Presser Foot ................. BERNINA® Wide Gathering Foot #16 or

...................... BERNINA® Extra-wide Gathering Foot #16

.......................................................bernette® gathering foot

Stitch ................................................................................ straight

Needle Position ........................................................... as indicated

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

BERNINA

Attach the gathering foot to the machine.

Select the straight stitch; adjust stitch length to 5mm; set needle

position to the far left.

Trim all four edges of the sample fabrics before beginning.

Place 12” length of fabric right side up under foot. Align edge of fabric with

Insert the 6” length of fabric right side down into the slot of the foot, with the raw edge against the right side of the slot.

Continue stitching, carefully guiding both pieces of fabric. Guide fabric that is being gathered with the left hand, flat fabric with the right hand. Note that fabric being gathered moves under the foot much faster than the flat, top layer.

Trim and mount sample.

®

5

/8” mark on the stitch plate. Stitch for 2” to 3”; stop.

bernette

Remove presser foot holder and attach gathering foot to machine.

Select the straight stitch; adjust length to 5mm; set needle position to center. Tighten upper thread tension to 7.

®

Notes: There are three things that effect the amount of gathers:

1. Fabric Weight - The lighter weight the fabric, the easier to gather.

2. Tension - Increased upper tension increases the amount of gathering.

3. Stitch Length - The longer the stitch length, the tighter the gathers.

Use the basting stitch or the Long Stitch function to increase gathers in heavier weight fabrics such as woolens and corduroys.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

82

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Your

BERNINA

Gathering with the Gathering Foot Sample

®

bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight 111111111 Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 83

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Gathering with BERNINA® Ruffler #86

Fabric .. 2 pieces medium weight cotton, one 4” x 6”, one 4” x 18”

Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal

Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose

Presser Foot ..........................BERNINA® Ruffler Attachment #86

Stitch ................................................................................ straight

Needle Position .................................................................... center

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

BERNINA

Attach Ruffler Attachment #86 to the machine.

Trim fabric edges with wavy rotary cutter before sewing.

Select Straight Stitch (SW = 0mm, SL= 1mm to 5mm). The longer the stitch length, the deeper the pleats will be.

Set the adjustment lever on the attachment at 1.

Place the 18” length of fabric (the piece to be ruffled) wrong side up between the two blades, snugging it against the edge of the seam guide slot, making sure it is slightly beyond the needle.

Lower the foot and begin sewing; stitch for 2” to 3”. If gathers are too deep, turn the adjusting screw counter clockwise; if too shallow, turn the screw clockwise.

®

bernette

Remove the presser foot holder from the machine.

Remove the from Ruffler Attachment #86.

Attach the Ruffler to the machine.

®

BERNINA® adapter

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

84

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Your

BERNINA

Gathering with BERNINA® Ruffler #86 Sample

®

bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight 111111111 Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 85

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Pintucks & Double Needles

Fabric ............................................. lightweight cotton, 6” x 8”, starched

Needle ...................... Double (size should correspond to foot/machine*)

Thread ................................................................ two spools, all-purpose

Miscellaneous ................. gimp cord or other colorfast, shrink-proof cord

Presser Foot................. BERNINA

............................................................

Stitches........................... straight, various decorative stitches as desired

Needle Position .............................................................................. center

®

Pintuck Foot #30, #31, #32, or #33

bernette

®

satin stitch foot

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

BERNINA

Insert the Double needle and thread with 2 different colors.

Select straight stitch; adjust length to 1.75mm-2mm. Engage Double Needle Limitation function or Security Program if available and select appropriate Double Needle option.

Parallel Pintucks

Start sewing in one corner and meander across fabric. Sew 5-6 more rows, evenly spaced across one corner of fabric. Position the previously sewn tuck in the groove of the foot.

Corded Pintucks

Thread machine, using the same thread in both needles and the bobbin.

BERNINA

It is not possible, with a double needle, to turn completely around a corner in one step. To turn corners, use the following steps:

bernette

- Sew to corner; needle in fabric, drop feed dogs.

- Turn 45°, take 1 stitch, lower needles into fabric, turn another 45°.

- Raise feed dogs and continue.

Sew four random corners.

Sew 2 points as on a leaf or star.

- Sew to corner; needle up.

- Pivot work carefully and lower needles back into same place.

Decorative Pintucks

Select desired decorative stitches; stitch several rows of pintucks.

®

only: Thread cord through the hole in the needle plate.

®

only: Remove accessory table; use center needle position

bernette

Insert the Double needle and thread with 2 different colors. Use the auxilliary spool pin for the second spool and skip the thread guide just above the needle

Select the straight stitch; adjust length to 1.75mm-2mm. Adjust needle position to maximum stitch width – see chart at right.

Parallel Pintucks

Start sewing in one corner and meander across fabric. Sew 5-6 more rows evenly spaced across corner of the fabric. Position previous tuck against edge of foot

®

Tips

Sew at a slower speed and test movement of the needle, making sure that it doesn’t hit the presser foot.

Tighten top tension to create more dimension.

* Choose the correct needle:

•

BERNINA® Pintuck Foot #30

3 groove: 4mm needle

• BERNINA

®

Pintuck Foot #31

5 groove: 2.5 or 3mm needle

• BERNINA® Pintuck Foot #32 7 groove: 2mm needle

• BERNINA® Pintuck Foot #33 9 groove: 1.6 needle

• bernette® 55 satin stitch foot

2.0 needle = 2.5mm max SW

3.0 needle = 2mm max SW

bernette

•

®

65, 80e, 90e

satin stitch foot

2.0 needle = 4mm max SW

3.0 needle = 4mm max SW

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

86

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Pintucks & Double Needles Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Scallop 12 8 11 12 Stitch

Square 13 9 10 11 Stitch

Decorative -- -- 9 10 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Feather -- 45 28 44 53 48 332 332 332 Stitch

Running 744444444 Stitch

Straight -- -- -- -- 131 160 719 719 719 Stitch Scallop

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 87

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Triple (Drilling) Needle

Fabric ............................................................ firmly woven, 6” x 8”

Stabilizer................................... firm tear-away or cut-away, 6” x 8”

Needle ..................................................................... Triple (3.0mm)

Thread ...................... Isacord embroidery thread, 3 different colors

Presser Foot .......................... BERNINA® Clear Foot #34/#34C or

.................... BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20/#20C

............................................................ bernette® satin stitch foot

Stitch ................................................................................. straight

................................. various decorative stitches as desired

Needle Position .....................................................................center

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Thread each needle with a different color thread. (bernette

the auxiliary spool pin and a supplementary thread stand.)

Engage the Triple Needle Limitation or Security Program, if available..

Note: If these features are not available, check to be sure the needles will not strike the foot by turning the handwheel to “walk” the machine through the first stitch.

Select 5 different stitches and sew across the fabric randomly.

When doing decorative needle work you must sew slowly – change motor to ½ speed if this option is available.

Trim threads, then trim sample edges, and mount.

®

use

Tips

Sew at a slower speed and test the movement of the needle, making sure that it doesn’t hit the presser foot.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

Tighten top tension to create more dimension.

88

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Triple (Drilling) Needle Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Decorative 4444 Stitch Option

Decorative --777 Stitch Option

Decorative -- -- 26 28 Stitch Option

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Decorative 3 45 28 44 53 48 332 332 332 Stitch Option

Decorative 7 4 68 95 25 27 16 16 16 Stitch Option

Decorative 13 14 16 18 21 22 12 12 12 Stitch Option

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 89

®

50 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Wing Needle/Double Wing Needle

Fabric ................................................................ cotton organdy, 6” x 8”

Notions .............................................. 6” length of heirloom insertion lace

Needle ......................................................................... Wing size 100/16

................................................................................ Double Wing

Thread ...................... two spools embroidery thread or 60 weight cotton

®

Presser Foot.............................. BERNINA

.................... BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20/#20C

....................................................bernette® clear satin stitch foot

Stitch ...................... straight, blindstitch, decorative stitches as desired

Needle Position .............................................................................. center

Clear Foot #34/#34C or

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Single Wing Needle

Insert Wing needle. If available, engage the Wing Needle Limitation function or Security Program (Wing needle option). This alters the stitch width so that the “wings” of the needle will not hit the presser foot; also constrains stitches to the center needle position.

Position lace on top of organdy. Select pin stitch or blanket stitch (if not available, select a narrow zigzag stitch with SW = 2mm). Stitch along one edge of lace, engaging the Mirror Image function if necessary and available. Sew along remaining edge, again engaging Mirror Image – or turning fabric – as needed. Carefully trim fabric from under lace.

Frame lace insertion with three of the stitches suggested in the chart.

Double Wing Needle

Insert Double Wing needle. Select straight stitch. Engage Double Wing Needle Limitation/Security function if available. Adjust stitch length to 3mm. Stitch across the fabric on the bias (diagonal). At end, carefully pivot and sew back along first line of stitching, with “wing” portion of Double needle entering holes created by the first line of stitching.

Frame center row with two additional lines of stitching:

- 1st row - blindstitch - sew in one direction, pivot, and stitch back to create a “chain” effect

- 2nd row - decorative straight stitch motif, such as a scallop

Carefully remove the stabilizer following the manufacturer’s directions.

Trim and mount the sample.

Wing Needle Tips:

When selecting stitches to use with a Wing or Double Wing Needle, look for multimotion stitches where the needle enters the same hole multiple times.

Stitching on the diagonal (bias) of the fabric allows holes created by the Wing needle to open more easily. To help support fabric and stitching, temporarily bond a layer of heavy, water-soluble stabilizer to wrong side of fabric using a temporary spray adhesive.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

90

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Your

BERNINA

Wing Needle/Double Wing Needle Sample

®

bernette

Wing 9 10 S10 S11 Needle 10 11 S8 S8 Stitch 11 12 S4 S4 Options

Double Wing 2222

Needle 912S4S4 Stitch 6655 Options -- -- S8 S8

®

55 65 80e 90e

-- -- 8 8

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Wing 2 28 25 41 50/132 45/161 720/329 720/329 720/329 Needle 744444726726726 Stitch 4 41 59 76 118 147 701 701 701 Options -- 14 16 18 141 171 732 732 732

Double Wing 111111111 Needle 377777999 Stitch 4 14 16 18 141 171 719 719 733 Options

Specialty -- -- -- -- -- -- security security security Needle Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 91

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

BERNINA® models only

Entredeux

Fabric ....................................................... cotton organdy, 8” x 6”

Notions .......................................... heavy cotton thread for cording

Stabilizer ...................... spray starch and/or water soluble stabilizer

Needle ..................................................................... Wing, size 100

Thread ...................................................................60 weight cotton

Presser Foot .....................................BERNINA® Cording Foot #25

Stitch ................................................................................. straight

Needle Position .....................................................................center

Insert Wing needle. If available, engage the Security Program, selecting the Wing needle option. This alters the stitch width so that the “wings” of the needle will not hit the presser foot; also constrains stitches to the center needle position.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Select the entreduex or star stitch; adjust stitch length to 3mm.

Attach Cording Foot #25, but do not load cord into the guides at this time. Stitch a row of entredeux.

Load Cording Foot #25 with lengths of heavy cotton thread in grooves 2 and 4.

Stitch a second row of entredeux. As the hemstitching is sewn, the heavy cotton threads fill the outer edges of the stitching, creating a stitch that looks very similar to fine, purchased endredeux.

Trim and mount sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

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BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Entreduex Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Star/Pattern -- 44 64 84 126 155 711 711 711 Stitch

Entredeux -- 41 59 76 118 147 701 701 701 Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 93

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Class 4 Product Reference List Decorative Techniques

 Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3  BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3 or  BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3C  Embroidery Foot #6  Wide Gathering Foot #16 or  Extra Wide Gathering Foot #16  BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20 or  BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20C  BERNINA® 3-Groove Cording Foot #22  BERNINA® 5-Groove Cording Foot #25  Pintuck Feet

 #30 - 3 groove  #31 - 5 groove  #32 - 7 groove

 #33 - 9 groove  BERNINA® Clear Foot #34 or  BERNINA® Clear Foot #34C  Clear Embroidery Foot #39  Ruffler Attachment #86  bernette® Cording Foot  bernette® Gathering Foot  bernette® Satin Stitch Foot

Needles

 Double Needles

(1.6/70, 1.6/80, 2.0/80, 2.5/80, 3.0/80, 4.0/80,

3.0/90, 4.0/90, 4.0/100, 6.0/100, 8.0/100)

 Triple (or Drilling) Needles (2.5/80, 3.0/80)  Wing Needle (100/16, 120/20)  Double Wing Needle (100/16)

 Guide Bar Set with Rulers  Wavy Rotary Cutter  Ruler  Cutting Mat

 BERNINA® Iron  Elastic Thread  Gimp Cord or Pearl Crown Rayon  Spray Sizing

Your

BERNINA

®

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06

94

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Class 5

More Decorative Techniques

Class Overview

Decorative Detail Samples

1 Pleats and Tucks 2 Off-the-Edge Scallops 3 Lace Insertion 4 Fagoting and Bundling 5 Fringing 6 Piping

Your

BERNINA

®

Embellishment Samples

7 Patchwork/Quilting 8 Applique 9 Surface Embellishment

• Crazy Patchwork

• Decorative Stitching

• Bobbinwork

• Couching

This class is formatted for owners of the following BERNINA® sewing machine models:

• classic 1008

• activa 220

• activa 230PE

• activa 240

• aurora 430

• aurora 440QE

• artista 630

• artista 640

• artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 95

This class is also formatted for owners of the

following bernette® sewing machine models:

• 55 • 65 • 80e • 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Pleats and Tucks

Fabric ................................................ medium weight cotton, 4” x 18”

Needle ........................................................................ 80/12 Universal

Thread ........................................................ all-purpose sewing thread

Presser Foot................................... BERNINA® Clear Foot #34/34C

............................................ BERNINA

................................................

bernette

...........................................................

Stitch ..................................................................................... straight

Needle Position ................................................................. as directed

®

BERNINA

Mark fabric as shown; fold fabric along lines; press.

Clear Foot #34/34C or bernette® zigzag/universal foot

®

Edgestitch #10/10C

®

zigzag/universal foot

bernette

®

blindhem foot

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Fold fabric on 1st line. Stitch 1st tuck, aligning right edge of foot with fold.

Fold fabric along second line. Move needle position to the far left; stitch tuck, aligning fold with the right edge of the foot.

Attach seam guide to back of foot. Adjust guide to 2¼” from center needle position. Fold fabric on 3rd line; stitch a 3rd tuck, aligning guide along fold.

BERNINA

Edgestitch Foot #10/10C

Fold fabric along fourth line. Place fold to the left of the center blade of Foot #10/10C, with the fold against the blade.

Move needle position all the way to the left; sew.

Fold fabric along fifth line; position fabric as for the last fold.

®

bernette

blindhem foot

Move white blade to right until it is aligned with the right side of the needle opening.

Fold fabric along fourth line. Place fold to the left of guide, with fold against guide. Sew.

Fold fabric along fifth line; position fabric as for the last fold.

®

5” 1½”1”3”2½” 5”

Move needle position to “half left” position; sew.

Note: Very narrow tucks are easily stitched with this foot by adjusting the needle position.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

Move white guide halfway back to center; sew.

Note: Very narrow tucks are easily stitched with this foot by repositioning the white guide.

96

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Pleats and Tucks Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight 111111111 Stitch

Needle 59991111111111 Positions

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 97

®

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

BERNINA® models only

Off-the-Edge Scallops

Fabric ........................................... medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”

Notions ............................................... cording (gimp, perle cotton)

........................ Stitch N Ditch™ Heirloom Stabilizer, 1 yard

Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal

Thread .............................................................. #75/11 Embroidery

Presser Foot .......................... BERNINA® Patchwork Foot #37 or

...................... BERNINA® Patchwork Foot with Guide #57

................... BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20/#20C

Stitch ................................................................................ straight

Needle Position .................................................................... center

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

Draw 4 lines about 1½” apart across the width of the fabric. Fold along each line and press.

Select the Straight Stitch; attach Patchwork Foot #37 to machine. Sew a ¼” tuck on each of the folds.

Change to Open Embroidery Foot #20 or #20C.

Select the Satin Scallop Stitch. Thread the cord through the hole in the stitch plate (directly in front of the needle).

Lay the edge of the Stitch N Ditch™ under the previously sewn tuck, with most of the paper showing beyond the fold of the tuck.

Begin stitching on the paper; cord will be drawn into the scallop stitching. (The scallop actually forms over the cord.) Continue stitching, guiding the fabric under the foot so that only 2-3 stitches at the “V” of the scallop stitch into the fold.

Sew off-the-edge scallops to each of the stitched tucks.

Gently remove Stitch N Ditch™ from completed scallops.

Trim and mount the sample.

Off the Edge Tip:

Stitch N Ditch™ Heirloom Stabilizer is very thin, crisp, and easy to tear, which makes it perfect for off-the-edge techniques.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

98

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Off-the-Edge Scallops Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

®

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight 111111111 Stitch

Satin Stitch 8 34 48 58 88 114 416 416 416 Scallop

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 99

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Lace Insertion

Fabric .................................................... lightweight cotton 4” x 6”

Notions ............................................ 9” insertion lace, ½ ”- ¾” wide

Needle ................................................................... 70/10 Universal

Thread .................................................................. 60 weight cotton

Presser Foot ............................... BERNINA® Edgestitch #10/10C

.......................................................

bernette

Stitch ................................................................................ straight

Needle Position ...................................................half left, half right

First Run: Pin or spray-baste lace in position on top of fabric. Select straight stitch; adjust length to 1.5mm-2mm.

®

blindhem foot

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

®

BERNINA

Move needle to half left (artista 640 & 730: adjust needle one position to left). Align left edge of lace with blade; sew.

Sew the right side in the same manner using the half right needle position (artista 640 & 730: adjust needle one position to right).

From the back, carefully cut through fabric, between the two rows of stitching, leaving lace intact. Press fabric back against the straight stitch.

Second Run: Select zigzag stitch; SW = 1.5-2mm and SL = 0.75-1mm.

BERNINA

Move needle to half left (640/730: adjust needle one position to left).

Place edge of lace first to the left of the guide, and zigzag over the edge of the lace and previously sewn straight stitch.

®

bernette

Move white blade 1/8” from the needle). Align right edge of lace with guide; sew.

Turn fabric 180° and sew the right side in the same manner.

bernette

Place edge of lace first to the right of the blade, and zigzag over the edge of the lace and the previously sewn straight stitch.

Turn fabric 180° and sew the right side in the same manner.

®

Sew right side in the same way, using a half right needle position (artista 640/730: adjust needle one position to right).

Trim surplus fabric from wrong side. Trim and mount sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

100

Bernina classic 1008, activa 220, activa 230PE, activa 240, aurora 430 Owner's Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual