Bernina classic 1008, activa 220, activa 230PE, activa 240, aurora 430 Owner's Manual

...

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Mastering Your

BERNINA

/bernette

Sewing Machine

Your

BERNINA

Owner’s Workbook

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 1

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Table of Contents

Class 1 - General Information ..................................................................3

Introduction ....................................................................................................... 4

Meet Your Feet ................................................................................................. 5

Sewing Machine Needles ................................................................................. 6

Thread .............................................................................................................. 8

Stabilizers & Interfacings ................................................................................. 10

Samples........................................................................................................... 12

Product Reference List .................................................................................... 30

Class 2 - Practical Stitching ....................................................................31

Seam Samples ................................................................................................ 32

Hem and Edging Samples ............................................................................... 40

Product Reference List .................................................................................... 52

Class 3 - More Practical Stitching...........................................................53

Elastic Samples ............................................................................................... 54

Buttonhole & Eyelet Types & Uses .................................................................. 58

Buttonhole Feet ............................................................................................... 59

Button & Buttonhole Samples .......................................................................... 60

Zipper Samples ............................................................................................... 70

Darning Sample ............................................................................................... 74

Product Reference List .................................................................................... 76

Your

BERNINA

Class 4 - Decorative Techniques.............................................................77

Gathering Samples .......................................................................................... 78

Specialty Needle Samples ............................................................................... 86

Product Reference List .................................................................................... 94

Class 5 - More Decorative Techniques ................................................... 95

Decorative Technique Samples ....................................................................... 96

Patchwork/Quilting/BSR/Applique Samplers .................................................. 108

Surface Embellishment Sampler .................................................................... 124

Product Reference List ................................................................................... 128

Class 6 - Stitch Manipulations................................................................129

Memory - Basic Information ............................................................................ 130

Function Sampler ........................................................................................... 132

Memory Samples ............................................................................................ 144

Setup Program ............................................................................................... 164

Tutorial............................................................................................................ 166

Creative Consultant ........................................................................................ 167

Product Reference List ................................................................................... 168

Class 7 - Directional Stitching................................................................169

Directional Stitching Samples ......................................................................... 170

Product Reference List ................................................................................... 190

Appendices ..............................................................................................191

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Class 1

General Information

Class Overview

Machine Overview

Parts of the machine Setting up the machine Getting ready to sew

Winding a bobbin Threading the upper thread Using the needle threader

Presser Feet & Accessories

BERNINA’s philosophy - use correct tools Specific feet for each machine Attaching the presser feet Overview of additional feet Stitch Plates Feed Dog

Stabilizers & Interfacing

Difference between the two Different types and applications Sewing sprays

Samples

1 Straight Stitch/Seaming 2 Needle Positions 3 Securing Stitches 4 Stitching Corners 5 Zigzag/Oversewing Edges 6 Satin Stitch 7 Topstitch/Edgestitch 8 Basting 9 Temporary Altered Stitch Memory

Your

BERNINA

Stitch Access

How to find the stitches on your machine Making the settings for each stitch

Tension

Adjusting tension Stitch formation

Needle Stop Adjustment

Foot control Needle Stop Up/Down function Correct use of handwheel

Sewing Machine Needles

Types of needles Sizes of needles Parts of needle Matching needle and thread

Sewing Thread

Good quality vs. poor quality Fibers and weight Thread storage ideas

Care and Cleaning of the Machine

Cleaning the feed dog and needle areas Cleaning and lubricating the hook Cleaning the outside of the machine

This class is formatted for owners of the following BERNINA

• classic 1008

• activa 220

• activa 230PE

• activa 240

• aurora 430

• aurora 440QE

• artista 630

• artista 640

• artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed

This class is also formatted for owners of the following

bernette

• 55 • 65 • 80e • 90e

sewing machine models:

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 3

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Your

BERNINA

Introduction

Congratulations on your purchase of a BERNINA® or bernette® for BERNINA® sewing machine!

This workbook is designed to be used in conjunction with the Owners Classes you will take at your BERNINA® dealership, and contains a series of exercises intended to familiarize you with

the features of your new BERNINA needles, threads, stabilizers, interfacing, presser feet and accessories, all of which will increase your knowledge of sewing and assist you in achieving success in all of your sewing endeavors.

Once you have completed the exercises designated for your BERNINA attach the sewn samples to the indicated pages and insert the pages into plastic page protectors and store them in a 3-ring binder. They can then be used as a reference tool in the future as you use your machine and explore the creative possibilities it affords you.

or bernette® sewing machine. In addition, you will learn about

or bernette® machine,

BERNINA® of America, Inc. strives to provide its customers not just with quality sewing machines, but with informative publications and classes. Along with providing Owners Classes, your local BERNINA® dealer stocks BERNINA® books and magazines, such as Feetures and Through the Needle. Plus, BERNINA® of America, Inc. has a website – www.berninausa.com – offering free projects, basic sewing information, a glossary of sewing terms, inspirational stories, interviews with creative stitchers, and a variety of articles and postings that appeal to all types of stitchers, no matter which machines are their favorites.

Learn to use your BERNINA® or bernette® machine to its full extent and enjoy being creative with fabric and thread!

My BERNINA® or bernette® sewing machine model is: _______________

Serial Number: _________________

I purchased it on: ________________

at ____________________________

______________________________

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Meet Your Feet

BERNINBERNIN

BERNIN

BERNINBERNIN

• are precision engineered for specific functions

• are Swiss-made for the highest quality

• are one-piece metal feet, making them sturdy and durable

• are easy to change with one hand, requiring no special tools

• have a white shank, making it easier to see the eye of the needle, resulting in easier threading

• are, in some cases, modeled after commercial feet used in factories to increase speed and production with professional looking results

• do the job intended in relation to all types of sewing (ex. garment-making, quilting, home dec, etc.)

• are supported by the best and most complete educational materials in the industry, such as Feetures volumes 1, 2, & 3, and the BERNINA® website at www.berninausa.com

A® Presser Feet:

2005 Top Ten Accessory Feet

Patchwork Foot with Guide #57

3 3

5 Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C

7 Freemotion Quilting Foot #29/29C

8 Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C

1010

10 Freemotion Couching Foot #43

1010

Your

BERNINA

BERNINBERNIN

BERNIN

BERNINBERNIN

Walking Foot #50

Edgestitch Foot #10/10C

4 4

Patchwork Foot #37

4 4

6 Clear Foot #34/34C

9 Invisible Zipper Foot #35

bernette® Presser Feet:

• have a white shank, making it easier to see the eye of the needle, resulting in easier threading

• are available for some of the most common sewing tasks such as piping, quilting, couching, etc.

Walking Foot

Quilting Foot

Blindhem Foot

Satin Stitch Foot

Darning/Embroidery Foot

Gathering Foot

Cording Foot

Overcasting Foot

Hemmer Foot

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 5

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Sewing Machine Needles

Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many “mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be traced to a bent, damaged, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all needles are discarded at some stage of production. When selecting the correct needle for any sewing project, consider the following:

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Needle system – 130/705H Needle point – to assure proper stitch formation and avoid fabric damage Needle size – smaller for lightweight fabrics; larger for heavier fabrics

If the needle is: Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop to be

picked up by the hook point

Bent – thread loop forms too far away from hook point; hook can’t enter

the loop to form stitch

Blunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to make

a stitch

Need To Know

• Needle should be changed every 4-6 hours of sewing. The needle is the most inexpensive part in your sewing machine but is one of the most crucial for getting good results and keeping your machine running well. Don’t let false economy keep you from doing what is best for your sewing projects and your machine.

• European needles are chrome-plated to glide in and out of fabric easily.

Notes

• The selected thread should fit in the groove on the front of the needle. If it isn’t protected by the groove, a needle with a larger groove should be used.

• Always make sure needles are fully inserted as high as possible, with the flat side to the back.

Needle Size Conversion

European vs. Domestic 60 = 8 70 = 10 75 = 11 80 = 12

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

90 = 14 100 = 16 110 = 18 120 = 19

Regardless of the system, the greater the number, the larger the diameter of the needle.

Needle “Secret” Code

• DRI = Triple

• E = Embroidery

• J = Jeans

• L, LL, R = Leather

• M = Microtex

• MET = Metallica

• N = Topstitching/Cordonnet

• Q = Quilting

• S = Stretch

• SUK = Fine Ball Point

• SES = Medium Ball Point

• WING = Wing

• ZWI = Double

• ZWIHO = Double Wing

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Sewing Machine Needles

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BERNINA

Ball Point

Stretch

Stretch Double

Universal

Double Universal

Triple (Drilling)

Jeans

60-100

70-90

2.5/75

3.0/75

60-120

1.6/70-

8.0/100

2.5/90

3.0/90

70-110

Has a rounded point. 70 for lingerie, nylon, jersey; 80 for T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece.

A stretch needle has a more rounded point than a Ball Point, and a blue anti-cling coating which helps to prevent skipped stitches in knits and elastic. Sometimes used on Ultrasuede

Two ballpoint needles on one shank; each needle has a large scarf. Used for hemming and for stitching on knit fabric.

A compromise between a sharp and a ballpoint needle; can be used on both wovens and knits. 60 – very fine batiste 70 – broadcloth 80 – trigger and gabardine 90 – denim and twill 100/110/120 – canvas

Two needles attached to one shank. Used for pintucks, hems, and decorative work.

Three needles attached to one shank. Used to create mock smocking and other decorative effects.

Has a sharp point and a shaft that is less prone to flex. The sharpness of the needles makes it better for use on denim and woven fabrics where a clean stitch is desired.

, vinyl, and plastic.

Microtex / Sharp

Quilting

Topstitch

Embroidery

Embroidery Double

Metafil

Wing

60-90

75 & 90

70-100

75 & 90

2.0/75

3.0/75

100 & 110

A sharp point with a thin shaft. Specially designed for microfiber fabrics.

The thin, tapered point of this needle causes less damage to fabric when seaming and cross seaming.

A sharp point with a large eye and deep groove. For use with heavier fabrics – the large groove cradles heavier threads.

Sharp needle with a large eye and groove; also has a coating and a larger scarf. For use with embroidery thread – prevents shredding of rayon or metallic threads. Two threads may be used through the eye.

Two Embroidery needles attached to one shaft; for double needle work with embroidery threads.

Similar to Embroidery needle, with large eye and deep groove, but made of a special heat-resistant alloy and with a friction-reducing coating. Especially suitable for manufactured fibers such as polyester, acrylic, nylon.

Sharp pointed needle with a noncutting wedge of metal on each side. Makes a hole in the fabric without cutting the threads of the fabric. Used for decorative and heirloom work, such as hemstitching. Works best on natural fibers or on the bias.

Jeans Double

Leather

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 7

4.0/80

80-100

Two Jeans needles attached to one shank. For topstitching on denim with heavy thread; can also be used for decorative stitching with metallic thread.

Point is a sharp cutting wedge. Used for leather only. Not for vinyl or simulated leathers.

Double Wing

Metallica

Metallica Double

100

70-90

2.0/80

One regular needle and one wing needle attached to a single shaft. Makes one large and one regular hole.

Designed for use with metallic threads; has a large eye and deep groove.

Two Metallica points on one shaft.

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Thread

Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a “seesaw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions.

Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread must be considered for use with today’s fabrics for fine stitches.

Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.

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Notes

Ply – number of strands twisted together to make a single thread.

Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching,

causing the stitch to appear slightly crooked. Poor quality threads are more likely to roll.

Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into a single ply. Thread should not untwist during stitching. This will cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots in seams.

Right twist – most American threads are twisted to the right, causing some rolling. This gives

average stitch quality.

Left twist – Most commercial and imported threads are twisted to the left, giving better than average stitch quality. Left twist resists rolling and makes a larger loop for

the hook point to enter, reducing skipped stitches.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Thread

Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and marketing of many new thread types, such as rayons and metallics. Threads made in West Germany are left twist threads; Mettler and Isacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towards you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.

Fiber – refers to the type of material used to produce the thread. Some commonly used threads:

• Polyester 2 ply – such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothing construction on man-made, natural or blended fabrics. Will tolerate heat up to 450° Fahrenheit.

• Polyester 3 ply cordonnet – topstitching or buttonhole twist – such as Mettler 30/3.

• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 60/2 – excellent for French Machine Sewing, delicate machine embroidery, piecing and darning.

• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 30/2 – loose twist for a soft, shiny look in machine embroidery, applique, and buttonholes.

• Cotton 3 ply – such as Mettler 50/3 – excellent for clothing construction on natural fibers. Tighter twist than embroidery cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton thread stretches less than polyester.

• Rayon – a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton, it is used for decorative work only.

• Polyester 2 ply embroidery thread – Isacord and Polysheen embroidery thread – excellent for embroidery, very abrasion resistant.

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Notes

Thread Storage

Thread does deteriorate with age and should be stored with care to keep it usable as long as possible. Extreme moisture may cause thread to swell while very dry conditions can leave it dry and brittle as it ages. Store thread in a covered container (thread box with a lid, cabinet with doors, or drawers that close) if possible to keep it dustfree.

Be wary of old spools of thread recovered from Grandma’s sewing box. The fibers may be so weak and brittle that even if it sews into a seam, it may be so unstable that the garment or project will not hold together and the life of the project may be considerably shortened.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 9

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Stabilizers & Interfacings

Tear-Away Stabilizer: The most commonly used type of stabilizer,

designed to provide temporary support of stitching. Placed on the wrong side of the project and carefully pulled away once stitching is complete. Available in three weights – heavy, medium, and light. Multiple lightweight layers may be preferable to one heavy layer, as they are easier to remove. Many adhesive versions have appeared on the market lately, including Stabil-Stick, which has a peel-away backing which exposes the sticky adhesive, and Hydro-Stick, has a water-activated adhesive on one side which provides a secure bond and a high degree of stabilization for very dense and/or intricate designs. Available in white and black.

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BERNINA

Notes

Cut-Away Stabilizer: The most widely used stabilizer in the commercial market. Does not break down under dense stitching, due to the high fiber – rather than paper – content. Excess stabilizer is trimmed away after stitching (leave approximately ¼” of stabilizer around the edges). Remaining stabilizer continues to support stitches throughout life of garment/project. Stabil-Stick and Hydro-Stick are available as cut-away stabilizers; in addition, PolyMesh, described below, is available in a fusible version. Available in white and black.

Web/Poly-Mesh Type Stabilizer: A specially formulated cut-away stabilizer developed for use behind lightweight or light-colored fabrics. Available in fusible and non-fusible versions. Available in white, black, and beige.

Water-Soluble Stabilizer: Used for backing and topping, in single or multiple layers. Available in two weights. Excellent for decorative stitching and cutwork as there are no remnants of stabilizer left after removal (it dissolves). As a topping, it keeps stitches from being lost in heavily napped fabrics such as velvet and corduroy. Examples: Aqua Film and Badge Master. Aqua Mesh Plus is an adhesive water-soluble stabilizer.

Iron-On Stabilizer: A non-woven product similar to paper. Perfect for knits, this tear-away stabilizer is temporarily bonded to the fabric, inhibiting the tendency of the material to stretch.

Heat Removable Stabilizer: Woven from strands of fiber that are burned away at a low temperature, heat removable stabilizers are perfect for heirloom stitchery.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Stabilizers & Interfacings

Liquid/Spray Stabilizers: Wonderful for sheer fabrics from which all

stabilizer must be removed after stitching, these products are painted or sprayed onto the fabric. Several light applications of spray stabilizer are preferable to one heavy application.

Knit Fusible Interfacing: A very lightweight, flexible interfacing sometimes used as a stabilizer, it gives permanent support (as an underlining) to a fabric. Perfect for plackets, garment edges, under buttonholes, and anywhere extra body and stability are needed. Can also be used to stabilize decorative stitch work. Available in white, cream, black, and gray; sometimes available in additional colors.

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Notes

Woven Fusible Interfacing: This interfacing is sometimes used as a stabilizer and is generally cut on the bias to provide better drape. Gives a firmer hand or finish than knit or non-woven inter-facings. Used for lapels, facings, and anywhere a great deal of extra body and stability are needed.

Sewing and Craft Sprays

HRFive Temporary Adhesive Spray: It’s water-soluble, so it washes out completely. Great for basting or holding two layers of fabric and/or batting together. Can be used as a repositionable spray, allowing items to stay sticky but be repositioned on other surfaces. This water-soluble adhesive washes out completely. Works well for securing “hard-to-hoop” items such as collars and cuffs to hooped stabilizer for embroidering. Also works on paper, and be used as a no-show adhesive on vellum.

606 Fusible Spray: 606 is used to make any fabric or stabilizer fusible. Apply to the wrong side of the fabric to be fused, using several light coats rather than one heavy coating. The more coats used, the stronger the bond will be. Fuse as directed on product label.

Fabric Shield: Used to protect fabrics from dust, dirt, grease, and oil, this spray is water repellent and can be laundered and dry-cleaned.

HRZero Adhesive Remover Spray: For removing adhesives, such as quilt sprays and other spray adhesives, as well as labels and tapes, from various surfaces. Use on work surface areas, hoops, needles, frames, quilting frames, stencils, table tops, etc. For use on plastic, metal, wood, glass, stone, and ceramic surfaces. Not intended for fabric surfaces.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 11

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Straight Stitch/Seaming

Fabric .......................... two pieces firm, woven fabric, each 4” x 6”

Needle .................................................................... 90/14 Universal

Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot .................. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

.......................................BERNINA® Quilting/Seam Guide

..........................................

....................................................

Stitch ................................................................................. straight

Needle Position .....................................................................center

bernette

Zigzag/Universal Foot

bernette

seam guide bar

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Notes

Find the 5/8” engraved guide line on the stitch plate. [Not available on bernette® 55.]

Place fabric pieces right sides together and align them with the engraved guide line.

Sew a 5/8” seam on one 6” edge.

Attach and adjust the seam guide and sew a 2” seam on the opposite edge of the fabric.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Straight Stitch/Seaming Sample

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bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight 111111111 Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 13

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Needle Positions

Fabric ...................................................... firm, woven fabric 4” x 6”

Stabilizer .............................................lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”

Needle .................................................................... 90/14 Universal

Thread .......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot .................. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

.......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot

Stitch ................................................................................. straight

Needle Position ................................................................. as noted

Fold fabric in half to 2” x 6”.

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Notes

Select Straight Stitch.

Position the fold of the fabric on the 1” mark on the right side of the stitch plate. [Not available on bernette® 55.]

Sew ½” (approximately five stitches). Stop with the needle up, out of the fabric.

Move the needle one position to the left.

bernettes

Stitch ½”. Stop with needle out of the fabric. Repeat until all left needle positions have been stitched.

Leaving the fabric under the foot – move the needle position back to center.

BERNINA® models only:

Move needle one position to the right. Stitch ½”. Note: On the 1008, avoid bending the needle by moving it up out of the fabric before changing the needle position; this is not necessary on computerized models, as the machine will automatically wait until the needle is in the highest position before moving the needle.

Repeat this until all right needle positions have been stitched.

: Move ½ number to the left using the Stitch Width dial.

Note: If your machine has a Pattern Repeat function, activate Pattern Repeat 1x, stitch until the machine automatically stops, then adjust the needle position; repeat until all positions are sewn.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Needle Positions Sample

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bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

Needle 2.5-5mm 3.5-7mm 3.5-7mm 3.5-7mm Position Range

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Straight 111111111 Stitch

Needle 5 9 9 9 11 11 11 11 11 Positions

Pattern -- -- -- -- -- -- yes yes yes Repeat Function

Needle -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes Down/Up Function

55 65 80e 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 15

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Securing Stitches

Fabric .............................4 pieces firm, woven fabric, each 4” x 6”

Needle ................................................................... 90/14 Universal

Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or #1C

......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot

Additional Accessories .................................. Quilting/Seam Guide

..................................................... Seam Guide with Rulers

................................................. bernette® Seam Guide Bar

Stitches............................................................................... straight

..................... securing stitch and/or quilters securing stitch

....................................................................... feather Stitch

Needle Position .................................................................... center

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Notes

Row 1 - Straight Stitch:

Find the

55.] Fold one piece of fabric in half lengthwise. Place it under the

presser foot; align one 6” edge with the

Select straight stitch. Sew a few stitches forward, then press the Quick Reverse Button/Lever; sew a few stitches backward; machine will sew in reverse until the Quick Reverse Button/Lever is released. Continue stitching the seam; secure the end in the same way.

BERNINA

Row 2 - Securing Stitch or Quilter’s Securing Stitch: Attach the Quilting/Seam Guide or Seam Guide with Rulers to the foot. Set the guide piece of fabric; align the raw edges with the guide.

Select the Securing Stitch. Begin to sew; machine will automatically secure the stitching, then continue stitching forward. At the end of the seam, press and release the Quick Reverse button. The machine will automatically secure the stitching, then stop.

Sample 3 - Securing Function:

Place remaining two fabric pieces wrong sides together. Attach one of the Seam Guides with Rulers to presser foot. Set guide 2” from needle; select a feather stitch. Engage the Securing Function, if available; machine will automatically secure the stitches at beginning of stitching. Re-engage when approaching the end of the stitching; machine will automatically secure the stitching at the end of the current stitch pattern (630/640 will stop stitching as well).

/8” guide line on the stitch plate. [Not available on bernette

/8” guide line.

models only:

/8” from the center needle position. Fold another

Securing Stitch:

Five straight stitches forward and back at beginning; five stitches backward and forward at end.

Quilters Securing Stitch:

Several very short stitches at beginning and end of straight stitching.

Securing Function:

Several very short stitches at beginning/end of stitching; can be applied to decorative as well as straight stitches.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Securing Stitches Sample

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bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

Securing -- -- -- -Stitch

Securing -- -- -- -Function

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Securing and/or --/-- 5/-- --/5 5/-- 5/-- 5/-- 5/324 5/324 5/324 Quilters Securing Stitch

Feather -- 45 28 44 53 48 332 332 332 Stitch

Securing -- -- -- -- yes yes yes yes yes Function

55 65 80e 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 17

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Stitching Corners

Fabric ..................... two pieces firm, woven fabric, each 4” x 6”

Stabilizer .......................................... lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”

Needle ................................................................. 90/14 Universal

Thread ....................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot ................ BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

.......................................

bernette

Stitch ...............................................................................straight

Zigzag/Universal Foot

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Notes

BERNINA

Select straight stitch.

Place fabric pieces right sides together.

Place the fabric under the foot with the top edge even with the horizontal line behind the foot. The right edge should be even with the

Engage the Needle Down function, if available.

Sew until the bottom edge touches the horizontal line in front of the needle; stop.

Pivot, using FHS (Free Hand System) if available. Continue sewing until you reach the next corner; repeat the pivot.

Stitch 3 sides of this sample.

Note: For crisply turned corners, take two small stitches diagonally across corner before completing the pivot.

/8” seam line.

bernette

Draw a line 5/8” from each corner of one fabric square.

Select straight stitch.

Place fabric pieces right sides together.

Place fabric under foot, top edge even with 2nd horizontal line behind foot (not available on 55). Right edge should be even with

the

/8” seam line.

80e & 90e: Engage Needle Down

function; audio signal will beep once. Note: To take a single stitch, press Needle Up/Down two times.

Sew until the needle is the end of the fabric.

Pivot. Continue sewing until you come to the next corner; repeat the pivot.

Stitch three sides of this sample.

Note: For crisply turned corners, take two small stitches diagonally across corner before completing the pivot.

/8” from

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Stitching Corners Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

bernette

Needle -- -- yes yes Down/Up

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Needle -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes Down/Up Function

Freehand -- optional optional yes yes yes yes yes yes System

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 19

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Zigzag/Oversewing Edges

Fabric ................................................... firm, woven fabric, 4” x 6 ”

Needle ................................................................90/14 Embroidery

Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or #1C

......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot

Stitch ........................................................................ zigzag stitch

Needle Position .................................................. center or far right

Select the Zigzag Stitch (width = 4, length = 2).

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

Finish one 6” edge using the following steps.

Guide edge of fabric under the middle of the presser foot – or – Move needle position to far right; sew using the inside edge of the right toe as a guide.

The needle should go into the fabric on one stroke of the needle and over the edge on the next stroke.

Do not use too long a stitch or too wide a stitch; the edge should lie flat, not roll.

Match the weight of the thread to the weight of the fabric.

Trim and mount the sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Zigzag/Oversewing Edges Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

bernette

Zigzag 3333 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Zigzag 222222222 Stitch

Needle 59991111111111 Positions

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 21

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Satin Stitch

Fabric .................................................. firm, woven fabric, 6” x 8”

Stabilizer ............................................................ tear-away, 4” x 6”

Needle .............................................................. 90/14 Embroidery

Thread ....................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot .... BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20 or #20C

................................. or BERNINA® Embroidery Foot #6

..................... or BERNINA

................................................

Extra Accessory Embroidery Bobbin Case (artista 730/640 only)

Stitch ....................................................................... zigzag stitch

Needle Position ......................................................... as indicated

Clear Embroidery Foot #39

bernette

Satin Stitch Foot

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

Fold fabric in half to 4” x 6”. Use stabilizer as needed.

Select the Zigzag Stitch. Change the stitch length to satin stitch and the stitch width to the widest possible.

Thread the bobbin thread through the eye in the bobbin case finger if using a machine with a CB hook system. For machines with a rotary bobbin system, loosen the needle tension slightly and use the Embroidery (gold latch) Bobbin Case.

Move the needle position to the center. Sew along the center of the fabric about 1”, then, while continuing to sew, decrease the stitch width to taper the stitch to 0mm. Continue sewing, widening the stitch back to maximum. Repeat until stitching reaches end of fabric.

BERNINA® models only:

Move the needle position all the way to the left. Position the raw edge of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the right side of the stitch plate). Stitch, tapering and widening the satin stitch while sewing.

Move the needle position all the way to the right. Position the fold of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the left side of the stitch plate). Stitch along the right side of the fabric, tapering and widening the stitching while sewing.

Note: A preprogrammed satin stitch is available on artista models 630/640/730: stitch #354 in the Quilt Stitch menu.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Satin Stitch Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

bernette

Zigzag 3333 Stitch

Bobbin ORRR Hook System (Oscillating/O or Rotary/R)

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Zigzag 222222222

Stitch

Bobbin CB CB CB CB CB CB CB R R

Hook

System (Oscillating/CB or Rotary/R)

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 23

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Topstitch/Edgestitch

Fabric ....................... firm, woven fabric, two pieces, 4” x 6” each

Needle ............................................................... 90/14 Embroidery

Thread ........................ 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot ................ BERNINA® Edgestitch Foot #10 or #10C

.................................................... bernette® Blindhem Foot

Stitch ............................................................. triple straight stitch

Needle Position .......................................................... as indicated

Place fabrics right sides together. Stitch together with a 5/8” seam along one 6” side. Finger-press the seam open.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

Select the triple straight stitch.

BERNINA

From the right side, position the blade of Foot #10/10C in the ditch of the seam. Move the needle position two places to the left.

Stitch the length of the seam.

If available, select the Long Stitch function. If not available, increase the stitch length to 5mm.

Move the needle all the way to the right, if available.

Starting at the top of the seam again, stitch the length of the seam.

bernette

Move the white blade 1/8” from the needle. Position the blade in the ditch of the seam.

Stitch the length of the seam.

Increase the stitch length to 5mm.

Move the needle all the way to the left.

Move white blade to line up with right side of the needle opening of the presser foot.

With the guide in the ditch of the seam, and starting at the top of the seam again, stitch the length of the seam.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Topstitch/Edgestitch Sample

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

bernette

Triple 7 155151

Straight Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Triple 966666666 Straight Stitch

Needle 59991111111111 Positions

Long Stitch -- -- -- -- -- -- -- yes yes Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 25

55 65 80e 90e

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Basting

Fabric .................................... firm, woven fabric, 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each

Needle ........................................................................ 90/14 Embroidery

Thread ................................. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Foot ... BERNINA

...... BERNINA

.................................................. bernette

Stitches......................................................................................... straight

......................................................................................... basting

Needle Position ............................................................................. center

Place fabric pieces right sides together.

Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C (1008, 640 & 730) – or –

Darning Foot #9 (220/230/240, 430/440 & 630)

Zigzag/Universal Foot

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

BERNINA

artista 640 & 730

Select preprogrammed basting stitch, if available, or straight stitch (preprogrammed length). Engage Long Stitch function if available.

Attach Foot #1/1C. Baste a seam along one side of fabric.

Adjust stitch length to 5mm; baste another side of fabric.

activa 220/230/240, aurora 430/440 & artista 630

Select preprogramed basting stitch. Attach Foot #9 and lower feed dog.

Sew one stitch; pull fabric desired length (2.5mm) of stitch from behind machine. Take one stitch. Repeat as needed.

/8”

/8” seam along opposite

bernette

& BERNINA® 1008 Using a straight stitch with a length of 5mm, baste a 5/8” seam along one side of fabric.

Repeat for opposite edge, moving fabric 5mm or more between stitches.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Basting Sample

Basting Stitch or [Straight Stitch + Long Stitch Function] Preprogrammed settings (Stitch Length = 2mm)

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Basting Stitch or [Straight Stitch + Long Stitch Function]

Stitch Length = 5mm

bernette

Straight 2222 Stitch

BERNINA®1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Basting -- 16 19 21 19 21 30 21 21

Stitch

55 65 80e 90e

Long Stitch -- -- -- -- -- -- -- yes yes

Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 27

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

BERNINA® electronic models only

Temporary Altered Stitch Memory

Fabric .................................................... firm, woven fabric, 6” x 8”

Stabilizer ............................................................. tear-away, 4” x 6”

Needle ................................................................90/14 Embroidery

Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color

Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or #1C

Stitch .................................................................................... heart

Needle Position .................................................................... center

Fold fabric to 4” x 6”. Insert stabilizer between layers.

Select the heart or other pattern stitch. Stitch two patterns and stop.

Note: If available, select the Pattern Repeat function 2x. Stitch; machine will automatically stop after two repeats.

– or –

Note: If available, touch Pattern End while sewing second pattern; machine will automatically stop at the end of the current pattern.

Mastering

Your

BERNINA

Notes

Reduce the stitch width to 4mm (6mm for the artista 640 and 730). Stitch two more repeats.

Select Vertical Mirror Image function if available. Stitch two more repeats.

Select the zigzag stitch from Satin Stitching exercise (pages 22-23).

Note: The sewing computer remembered all the changes made to the stitch – length, width, and needle position.

All models except artista 630/640/730: Disengage the Mirror Image

function, as it remains active until turned off.

Select heart stitch again. Sew. Note: The sewing computer

remembered all changes made to heart stitch, as well as to zigzag.

Note: In addition to stitch width, length, and needle position, the artista 630/640/730 sewing computer remembers changes to the Mirror Image and Pattern Repeat functions. Temporary Altered Memory will be explored further in Class 6, artista Extras.

Return the active stitch to default settings by touching clr (clear).

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Your

BERNINA

Temporary Altered Stitch Memory Sample

(

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Heart -- 32 46 85 127 156 712 712 712 Stitch

Pattern End -- -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes

Mirror -- -- -- yes yes yes yes yes yes Image

Pattern -- -- -- -- -- -- yes yes yes Extend

Temporary -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes Stitch Memory

artista 630/640/730

)

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 29

Mastering

BERNINA®/bernette® Sewing Machines

Class 1

Product Reference List

General Information

 Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3  BERNINA  BERNINA  BERNINA  BERNINA  BERNINA  BERNINA  BERNINA  bernette  Deluxe Accessory Box  Thread Storage Box  Bobbins  Magnetic Pin Cushion  Magnetic Bobbin Holder  Straight Stitch Plate  Seam Sealant  Thread Stand  Supplementary Thread Guide  Multi-Spool Thread Holder  Left Seam Guide  Seam Guide with Rulers (right and left)  Magnifying Lens Set  Suitcase System

Embroidery Foot #6

Darning Foot #9

Edgestitch Foot #10 or

Edgestitch Foot #10C

Open Embroidery Foot #20 or

Open Embroidery Foot #20C

Clear Embroidery Foot #39

Satin Stitch Foot

OESD Stabilizers

 Aqua Film (topping, backing)  Aqua Mesh  Aqua Mesh Plus (adhesive-backed)  Tear-Away (lightweight, medium weight)  Hydro-Stick Tear-Away  Stabil-Stick Tear-Away  Cut-Away (heavy weight)  Xtra Heavyweight Cut-Away  Hydro-Stick Cut-Away  Stabil-Stick Cut-Away  Poly Mesh  Fusible Poly Mesh  HRFive Temporary Adhesive Spray  606 Spray and Fix  Fabric Shield

Thread

 Isacord Polyester  YLI (variety)  Mettler Cotton Embroidery  Mettler Metrosene Polyester  Mettler Silk-finish Cotton

Your

BERNINA

Needles

 Universal 60/70/80/90/100/110/120  Double 1.6/2.0/2.5/3.0/4.0/6.0/8.0  Wing Single/Double  Embroidery 75/90  Quilting 75/90  Stretch 70/75/80/90  Ballpoint 60/70/80/90/100

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®/bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06

Quilters’ Resource Nifty Notions Scissors

 Dressmaker’s shears  Trimming scissors  Applique Scissors

+ 168 hidden pages

Bernina classic 1008, activa 220, activa 230PE, activa 240, aurora 430 Owner's Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual