Bernina Bernette 44 operation manual
Instruction Manual
TABLE OF CONTENTS
NAME OF PARTS 7
Details of machine 7
ACCESSORIES 9
Standard 9
Needle Information 9
HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER 10
Principal Parts behind the Looper Cover 10
PREPARATION TO SEWING 10
Power Switch 10
Foot Controller 10
Cut-offs Bin 11
PREPARATION FOR THREADING 12
Setting up the Retractable thread stand 12
Spool net 12
Spool Cap 12
HOW TO DISENGAGE UPPER KNIFE 13
UPPER LOOPER CONVERTER (ULC) 14
Use the upper looper converter 14
Disengage To Upper Looper 14
STANDARD OVERLOCK AND ROLLED HEM
STITCHING 14
Sew Standard Overlock 14
Sew Rolled Hem 15
HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT NEEDLES 15
Needle Position 15
To Remove Needle(s) 16
To Insert Needle(s) 16
Threading the Lower Looper (Red) 21
Threading the Overlock Right Needle (Green) 23
Threading the Overlock Left Needle (Yellow) 24
HOW TO CHANGE THREADS 26
Tie on method 26
HOW TO ADJUST 27
Stitch lenght dial 27
Seam Width 27
The presser foot pressure 28
DIFFERENTIAL FEED 29
Gathered Overlock (1–2.0) 29
Stretch Overlock (1–0.6) 30
CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING 31
HOW TO SEW AN OVERLOCK STITCH 32
2–Thread Wrapped Overlock (9/10) 32
2–Thread Overlock (14/15) 33
3–Thread Overlock (3/4) 34
3–Thread Flatlock (5/6) 35
2–Thread Flatlock (11/12) 36
3–Thread Super Stretch (2) 37
4–Thread Overlock with integrated safety
seam (1) 38
HOW TO SEW A ROLLED HEM 39
Machine set up 39
Additional information about rolled hemming 40
3–Thread Narrow Seam (7) 41
3–Thread Rolled Hem (8) 41
2–Thread Rolled Hem (13) 42
SELECTION OF STITCHES 17
THREADING THE MACHINE 19
Threading Diagram 19
Tension Color Code 19
Threading the Upper Looper (Blue) 20
STITCH VARIATIONS AND SEWING
TECHNIQUES 43
How To Sew a Flatlock Decorative Seam 43
Machine Set Up 43
Flatlocking a Seam 43
3
Decorative Flatlocking 44
Additional Information about Flatlocking 44
How to sew an Overlock Blind Hem 45
How to sew Pin Tucks 45
How to turning Square Corners 46
MACHINE MAINTENANCE 48
Cleaning The Machine 48
Oiling The Machine 48
Replace the Upper Knife 49
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES 50
Snap–On Type Presser Foot 50
Optional Presser Foot 51
TROUBLESHOOTING 52
FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE CHART 53
SPECIFICATION 54
Technical Summary 54
IMPORTANT
Precautions should always be followed,
including the following:
Read all the instructions before using this
machine.
In general when the machine is not in
use, it should be disconnected from
the electricity supply.
DANGER!
As a protection against electrical shock:
1. The machine should never be left
unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug this machine from
the electrical outlet after using and
before cleaning.
3. LED Radiation. Do not view directly
with optical instruments. Class 1M
LED product.
WARNING!
As a protection against burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:
1. Use this machine only for purposes
as described in this manual. Use
only attachments, accessories and
parts recommended by the manufacturer.
2. Do not allow this machine to be
used as a toy. Close attention is
necessary when this machine is
used by or near children. The
machine is not intended for use by
persons (and children) with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and
knowledge. Unless they have been
given supervision or instruction concerning use of the machine by a
person responsible for their safety.
To ensure children do not play with
4
the machine they must be supervised.
Never operate this machine if:
⦁
the cord or the plug are damaged,
⦁
it is not working properly,
⦁
it has been dropped or damaged,
⦁
it has fallen into water.
3. Return the machine to your local
authorized BERNINA dealer for
examination or repair.
4. Never operate the machine with any
air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine free
from the accumulation of lint, dust
and loose cloth.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving
parts. Special care is required
around the sewing needle and the
knife.
6. Never insert any objects into any
openings on the machine.
7. Do not use the machine outdoors.
8. Do not operate the machine where
aerosol products (sprays) or oxygen
are being used.
9. Do not pull or push the fabric while
stitching. This can result in needle
breakage.
10. Switch the machine off «0» when
making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading the
needle, changing the needle, threading the looper, or changing the
presser foot.
11. Always unplug the machine from the
electrical outlet when removing covers, when covers are opened to
raise the knife or thread the loopers,
when lubricating or when making
any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction
manual.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Always use the original BERNINA
stitch plate. The wrong stitch plate
can cause needle breakage.
14. This machine is provided with double insulation (except for USA and
Canada). Use only original spare
parts. See instructions for servicing
of double–insulated products.
15. Use only foot controller provided
with this machine. (Type 4C–316B
for USA & CANADA only).
5
All rights reserved
For technical and product improvement reasons, the machine‘s features, parts and
accessory are subject to unannounced
changes and alterations at any time. The
accessory included can differ from country
to country.
WARNING:
This machine is intended for household
use only. If used intensively or commercially, regular cleaning and especially
attentive care is required.
Signs of wear and tear owing to intensive
or commercial use are not covered automatically, even if they occur within the
warranty period. The decision on how to
deal with any such cases rests with the
local authorised servicing staff.
PLEASE NOTE:
If the machine is stored in a cold room, it
should be brought to a warm room about
one hour before use.
SERVICING OF
DOUBLE–INSULATED
PRODUCTS
In a double–insulated product two systems of insulation are provided instead of
grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double–insulated product, nor
should a means for grounding be added
to the product. Servicing a double–insulated product requires extreme care and
knowledge of the system and should be
done only by qualified service personnel.
Replacement parts for a double–insulated product must be identical to the
original parts in the product. A double–
insulated product is marked with the
words: «Double insulation» or «Double
insulated».
The symbol may also mark such a
product.
SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS!
Europe only: This appliance may only be
used by children over eight and by persons with reduced physical, sensory or
mental capabilities or by persons who
lack experience and knowledge of how to
operate the machine under supervision,
after instruction on how to use the equipment safely and once they have understood the potential dangers. Children
shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning
and user maintenance shall not be made
by children without supervision.
Outside of Europe (except for the USA
and Canada): This appliance may only be
used by persons (including children) with
reduced physical, sensory or mental
capabilities or by persons who lack experience and knowledge of how to operate
the machine under supervision and after
instruction on how to use the equipment
safely by a person responsible for their
safety. Children should be supervised to
ensure that they do not play with the
appliance.
6
1
2
4
8
9
10
11
15
16
3
5
6
7
14
12
13
NAME OF PARTS
Details of machine
Retractable thread stand
Carrying handle
Thread Tension Adjustment dial (yellow)
Thread Tension Adjustment dial (green)
Thread Tension Adjustment dial (blue)
Thread Tension Adjustment dial (red)
Spool pin
Stitch plate
Sewing table
Looper cover
Power / Light switch
Stitch length dial
Handwheel
Thread stand
Spool stabilizer
Cut-offs Bin
7
17
18
19
20
21
Presser foot lifter
Differential feed dial
Cutting width dial
Presser foot pressure regulator
Standard presser foot Overlock
8
13
1412
7
11
10
6
98
12
3
5
4
ACCESSORIES
Standard
Screw driver (large size)
Oiler
Spool net (4x)
Spare upper knife
Spool cap (4x)
Brush
Needle set (ELx705)
Needle Threader / inserter
Allen screw driver (small)
Tweezers
Upper looper converter (ULC)
Spool stabilizer (4x)
Dust cover
Cut-offs Bin
Needle Information
This overlock uses a flat shank industrial needle
(ELx705).
Do not attempt to use a standard household
sewing machine needle of any size or type in
this overlock.
Needle ELx705 size 80/12 is furnished with the
machine.
Only use needles of system ELx705 sizes 70/10
- 90/14 .
9
OFF
ON
2
1
2
3
6
4
5
1
HOW TO OPEN LOOPER
COVER
CAUTION:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
1. Push the cover to the right as far as it will go.
2. Pull cover down toward you.
CAUTION:
Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing.
Principal Parts behind the Looper
Cover
(1) Upper looper
(2) Upper knife (moveable)
(3) Standard presser foot
(4) Fixed position lower knife
(5) Lower looper
(6) Rolled Hem lever
10
PREPARATION TO SEWING
Power Switch
– Connect the controller/electric plug to the
machine receptacle.
– Plug power line into electric outlet.
– Push " l " mark side to turn "ON"
– Push "O" mark side to turn "OFF"
Foot Controller
– To run the machine and control the speed,
press the controller.
– The harder you press, the faster the machine
will sew.
– To stop the machine from sewing, remove your
foot from the controller
CAUTION:
Use only foot controller provided with this
machine. (Type 4C–316B for USA & CANADA
only). Be sure to make reference to “Warning”
on following Page.
• Polarized plug information
5
1
3
4
2
(FOR USA & CANADA ONLY)
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider
than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock,
this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only way.
If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the
plug.
If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician to
install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any
way.
CAUTION:
– Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage
of the motor.
– Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything on
top of it when not in use.
– Disconnect the power line plug from the electric outlet when changing needles, presser feet or when
leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally
pressing the controller.
Cut-os Bin
• To attach
– Insert the Cut-offs Bin (1) in the looper cover.
– Be sure to press the Cut-offs Bin downward (2).
– Be sure the left side of Cut-offs Bin (3) is
mounted near the cutter where the scraps drop.
• Removal
– Pull the Cut-offs Bin upward as the instruction
(4).
– To remove (5), hold the Cut-offs Bin as shown
and pull it outward.
11
PREPARATION FOR THREAD-
3
2
1
ING
Setting up the Retractable thread
stand
– Take out the retractable thread stand from the
top of Styrofoam, and insert it as shown on the
left illustration.
– This machine is shipped with the retractable
thread stand on the top of styrofoam.
– Fully extend the retractable thread stand.
– The two joints on the telescope will click into
place when they are correctly positioned.
– Center the retractable thread stand above the
spool pins.
– Place thread over the cone adapters on the
spool pins.
Spool net
When using synthetic threads that easily spill off the
cone, slip the spool net (1) furnished with the machine
over the thread from the bottom of the cone leaving
the thread end hanging free at the top the spool net.
Spool Cap
When using a regular thread spool, fit the spool cap
(2) supplied with the machine onto the thread spool
(3).
12
HOW TO DISENGAGE UPPER
2
1
2
1
1
2
KNIFE
CAUTION:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
• To place upper knife in nonworking
position
– Open looper cover (refer page 10).
– Pull the upper knife holder (1) to the right as far
as it will go.
– Turn the holder (2) toward counter clockwise
until the knife clicks into a lock position.
• To place upper knife in working position
– Open looper cover.
– Pull the upper knife holder (1) to the right as far
as it will go.
– Turn the holder (2) clockwise until the knife
clicks into the working position.
CAUTION:
Always close looper cover before operating
machine.
13
UPPER LOOPER CONVERTER
1
2
1
2
3
R
N
R
N
(ULC)
CAUTION:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
When not threading the upper looper, the upper
looper converter must be engaged into the upper
looper eye.
Attach the Upper Looper Converter
– To engage the upper looper converter, insert
the sharp part (1) into the eye of upper looper.
– A raised point located in the trough of upper
looper converter must be inserted and fixed (2)
in the eye of the upper looper converter.
Remove the Upper Looper Converter
When using the upper looper, the upper looper converter must be disengaged.
– To disengage the upper looper converter, raise
the handle (3) of upper looper according to
picture.
STANDARD OVERLOCK AND
ROLLED HEM STITCHING
Sew Standard Overlock
Set seam width finger knob to "N" to move seam width
finger to standard overlock sewing position.
PLEASE NOTE:
Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as
it will go in the direction of setting "N".
14
Sew Rolled Hem
R
N
A
B
B
A
BAB
Set seam width finger knob to "R" to retract the seam
width finger and set it for rolled hem.
PLEASE NOTE:
Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as
it will go in the direction of setting "R".
HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT
NEEDLES
Needle Position
– With this machines, two needles can be inserted
to the needle clamp.
– The Stitch overview refers to different needle
positions by illustrating the needle clamp.
PLEASE NOTE:
When both the left and right overlock needles are
inserted, the left needle will be slightly higher
than the right.
(A) Left Needle (LN)
(B) Right Needle (RN)
15
To Remove Needle(s)
B
A
1
A
B
B
A
BAB
B
A
1
2
3
A
B
B
A
BAB
PLEASE NOTE:
Be sure to disconnect the machine from the electric outlet before removing needle(s).
– Turn the hand wheel counterclockwise until the
needles are at their highest position.
– Hold the needle to be removed with the needle
holder (stored in the looper cover).
– Loosen the setscrew and remove the needle.
(A) Left needle (LN)
(B) Right needle (RN)
To Insert Needle(s)
– Hold the needle with the flat surface (1) to the
back.
– Insert the needle into the needle socket as far
as it will go.
– When inserting a needle, if you first lower it
down into the hole in the stitch plate it will line
up with the needle socket. Then direct it
upwards.
16
PLEASE NOTE:
When inserting needles into the (A) or (B) sock-
ets it is necessary to loosen (3) both (A) and
(B) Allen Screws.
After inserting the needles equally tighten both
Screws (2).
STITCH OVERVIEW
This machine is capable of producing various types of stitches according to the combination of needle positions,
threading methods, tension adjustment and the use of upper looper converter ULC.
# Stitch Type Use
4–Thread Overlock with integrated
1
safety seam
3–Thread Super Stretch
2
3–Thread Overlock wide
3
3–Thread Overlock narrow
4
3–Thread Flatlock wide
5
3–Thread Flatlock narrow
6
3–Thread Narrow Seam
7
3–Thread Rolled Hem
8
2–Thread Wrapped Overlock wide
9
2–Thread Wrapped Overlock narrow
10
2–Thread Flatlock wide
11
2–Thread Flatlock narrow
12
2–needle 4–Thread stitch that is ideal for medium
to heavyweight stretchy fabrics such as double
knits and swim wear.
2–needle 3–Thread stitch that is ideal for light
weight, extremely stretchy fabrics such as tricot
and spandex.
1–needle 3–Thread stitch is used for overedging
and seaming on common fabrics.
A 4 mm and 6 mm overlock seam width can be
obtained by changing the needle position.
1–needle 3–Thread stitch is used for butted or
lapped seams and ornamental stitching with
decorative thread.
Also a 4 mm and 6 mm flatlock width can be
obtained by changing the needle position.
1–needle 3–thread stitch is for edging light
weight fabrics.
1–needle 3–thread stitch is used for sewing narrow rolled hems.
For a beautiful rolled hem, thread the upper
looper with decorative thread and the needle and
lower looper with light weight regular thread.
1–needle 2–Thread stitch is used for seaming
light weight or stretch fabrics.
A 4 mm and 6 mm overlock seam width can be
obtained by changing the needle position.
1–needle 2–Thread stitch is used for butted or
lapped seams and ornamental stitching with
decorative thread.
Also a 4 mm and 6 mm flatlock width can be
obtained by changing the needle position.
Page
38
37
34
35
41
41
32
36
2–Thread Rolled Hem
13
2–Thread Overlock wide
14
2–Thread Overlock narrow
15
1–needle 2–thread stitch is used for fine rolled
hems.
1–needle 2–Thread stitch is used for overedging
common fabrics.
A 4 mm and 6 mm overlock seam width can be
obtained by changing the needle position.
17
42
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