Yamaha FZS 600 Fazer 1999 Service manual

0-12 Daily or (pre-ride) checks

Note: The daily (pre-ride) checks outlined in the owner's manual covers those items which should be inspected on a daily basis.

1 Engine/transmission oil level check

Before you start

• On YZF models, support the motorcycle in an upright position, using an auxiliary stand if required. On FZS models, put the motorcycle on its centrestand. Make sure it is on level ground.

• Start the engine and let it idle for several minutes to allow it to reach normal operating

temperature.

Caution: Do not run the engine in an enclosed space such as a garage or workshop.

• Stop the engine. Leave the motorcycle undisturbed for a few minutes to allow the oil level to stabilise.

The correct oil

• Modern, high-revving engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your bike is used.

• Always top up with a good quality oil of the specified type and viscosity and do not overfill the engine.

Caution: Do not use chemical additives or oils with a grade of CD or higher, or use oils labelled "ENERGY CONSERVING II". Such additives or oils could cause clutch slip.

Oil type Oil viscosity*

UK models US models

"Refer to the viscosity table to select the oil best suited to your conditions.

API grade SE, SF or SG (min)

SAE 10W30or10W40 SAE10W30or20W50

Bike care

• If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. If there is no sign of oil leakage from the joints and gaskets | the engine could be burning oil (see Fault Finding).

Oil viscosity table; select the oil best suited

If the level is below the minimum line, remove the filler cap from

the top of the clutch cover.

to the conditions

Wipe the oil level inspection window,

located on the right-hand side of the engine, so that it is clean.

With the motorcycle vertical, the oil level should lie between the maximum and minimum levels on the window.

Top the engine up with the recommended grade and type of oil, to

bring the level up to the maximum level on the window.

2 Coolant level check

Daily or (pre-ride) checks 0-13

Warning: DO NOT remove the radiator pressure cap to add coolant. Topping up is done via the coolant reservoir tank filler. DO NOT leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Before you start

• Make sure you have a supply of coolant available - a mixture of 50% distilled water and 50% corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol anti-freeze is needed. Note: Yamaha specify

that soft tap water can be used, but NOT hard water. If in doubt, boil the water first or use only distilled water.

• Always check the coolant level when the engine is cold.

• On YZF models, support the motorcycle in an upright position, using an auxiliary stand if required. On FZS models, put the motorcycle on its centrestand. Make sure it is on level ground.

Bike care

• Use only the specified coolant mixture. It is important that anti-freeze is used in the system all year round, and not just in the winter. Do not top the system up using only water, as the system will become too diluted.

• Do not overfill the reservoir. If the coolant is significantly above the "FULL" level line at any time, the surplus should be siphoned or drained off to prevent the possibility of it being expelled out of the overflow hose.

• If the coolant level falls steadily, check the system for leaks (see Chapter 1). If no leaks are found and the level continues to fall, it is recommended that the machine is taken to a Yamaha dealer for a pressure test.

On YZF models, remove the seat to access the coolant reservoir

(see Chapter 8). The coolant "FULL" and "LOW" level lines are marked on the reservoir.

If the coolant level is not in between the "FULL" and "LOW" level

lines, on FZS models remove the right-hand side cover (see Chapter 8, Section 3), then on all models remove the reservoir filler

cap.

On FZS models, the coolant "FULL and "LOW" level lines are marked on the back of the reservoir and are visible below the right-hand side panel.

Top the coolant level up with the recommended coolant mixture.

Fit the cap securely, then install the side cover (see Chapter 8).

o-i4 Daily or (pre-ride) checks

3 Brake fluid level checks

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it and cover surrounding surfaces with rag. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Before you start

• On YZF models, support the motorcycle in an upright position, using an auxiliary stand if required. On FZS models, put the motorcycle on its centrestand. Turn the handlebars until the top of the front master cylinder is as level as possible. If necessary, tilt the motorcycle to make it level. The rear master cylinder reservoir is located behind the right-hand side cover.

FRONT BRAKE FLUID LEVEL

• Make sure you have the correct hydraulic fluid. DOT 4 is recommended.

• Wrap a rag around the reservoir being worked on to ensure that any spillage does not come into contact with painted surfaces.

Bike care

• The fluid in the front and rear brake master cylinder reservoirs will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down.

• If any fluid reservoir requires repeated

topping-up this is an indication of a hydraulic leak somewhere in the system, which should

be investigated immediately.

• Check for signs of fluid leakage from the hydraulic hoses and components - if found rectify immediately.

• Check the operation of both brakes before taking the machine on the road; if there is evidence of air in the system (spongy feel to lever or pedal), it must be bled as described in Chapter 7.

On YZF models, the front brake fluid level is visible through the

reservoir body - it must be between the "UPPER" and "LOWER" level lines.

On YZF models, if the level is below the "LOWER" level line,

remove the reservoir cap clamp screw (arrowed), then unscrew the cap and remove the diaphragm plate and the diaphragm.

On FZS models, the front brake fluid level is visible through thJ window in the reservoir body - it must be above the "LOWER level line.

On FZS

models, remove the two reservoir cover screws (arrowed) and remove th> cover, the diaphragm plate and the diaphragm.

if the

level

below

the

"LOWER" level

line

Daily or (pre-ride) checks 0-15

Top up with new clean hydraulic fluid of the recommended type,

until the level is above the "LOWER" level line. Take care to avoid spills (see Warning above).

REAR BRAKE FLUID LEVEL

On YZF models, the rear brake fluid level

is visible through the cutout in the righthand side cover - it must be above "LOWER" level line.

On FZS models, remove the right-hand

side cover (see Chapter 8, Section 3) the rear brake fluid level is visible through the reservoir body - it must be above "LOWER" level line.

Ensure that the diaphragm is correctly seated before installing the

plate and cover or cap. On YZF models, secure the cap with its clamp.

If the level is below the "LOWER" level

line, on YZF models remove the righthand side cover (see Chapter 8, Section 3), then slacken the reservoir cap (A) and remove the mounting screw (B), and displace the reservoir so that it is clear of the clamp (C).

•4 A To replenish the fluid, unscrew the reservoir cap and remove the I vy diaphragm plate and diaphragm. Top up with new clean

hydraulic fluid of the recommended type, until the level is above the lower

mark.

Take care

avoid spills (see

Warning

above).

H Ensure that the diaphragm is correctly seated before installing

I the plate and cap. Tighten the cap securely. On YZF models,

locate the reservoir and tighten its screw securely. Install the side

cover (see Chapter 8).

o-i6 Daily or (pre-ride) checks

4 Tyre checks

The correct pressures

• The tyres must be checked when cold, not immediately after riding. Note that low tyre pressures may cause the tyre to slip on the rim or come off. High tyre pressures will cause abnormal tread wear and unsafe handling.

• Use an accurate pressure gauge.

• Proper air pressure will increase tyre life and provide maximum stability and ride comfort.

YZF models

Loading/speed Rider only Rider and passenger, or high speed riding

FZS models

Loading/speed

Rider only Rider and passenger, or high speed riding

Tyre care

• Check the tyres carefully for cuts, tears, embedded nails or other sharp objects and excessive wear. Operation of the motorcycle with excessively worn tyres is extremely hazardous, as traction and handling are directly affected.

• Check the condition of the tyre valve and ensure the dust cap is in place.

Front

32 psi 36 psi

Front

32 psi 32 psi

(2.2

Bar)

(2.5 Bar)

(2.2

Bar)

(2.2

Bar)

Rear

36 psi 41 psi

Rear

36 psi 40 psi

(2.5 Bar)

(2.8 Bar)

(2.5 Bar)

(2.8

Bar)

• Pick out any stones or nails which may have become embedded in the tyre tread. If left, they will eventually penetrate through the casing and cause a puncture.

• If tyre damage is apparent, or unexplained loss of pressure is experienced, seek the advice of a tyre fitting specialist without delay.

Tyre tread depth

• At the time of writing, UK law requires that tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 ot the tread breadth all the way around the tyre, with no bald patches. Many riders, however, consider 2 mm tread depth minimum to be a safer limit. Yamaha recommend a minimum of

1.6 mm.

• Many tyres now incorporate wear indicators in the tread. Identify the triangular pointer or "TWI" mark on the tyre sidewall to locate the indicator bar and replace the tyre if the tread has worn down to the bar.

Check the tyre pressures when the tyres

are cold and keep them properly inflated.

Measure tread depth at the centre of the

tyre using a tread depth gauge.

Tyre tread wear indicator bar and its

location marking (usually either an arrow, a triangle or the letters TWI) on the sidewall (arrowed).

5 Suspension, steering and final drive checks

Suspension and Steering Final drive

• Check that the front and rear suspension operates smoothly without binding.

• Check that the suspension is adjusted as required.

• Check that the steering moves smoothly from lock-to-lock.

• Check that the drive chain slack isn't excessive, and adjust if necessary (see Chapter 1).

• If the chain looks dry, lubricate it (see Chapter 1).

6 Legal and safety checks

Lighting and signalling

• Take a minute to check that the headlight, taillight, brake light, instrument lights and turn signals all work correctly.

• Check that the horn sounds when the switch is operated.

• A working speedometer graduated in mph is a statutory requirement in the UK.

Safety

• Check that the throttle grip rotates smoothly, and snaps shut when released, in all steering positions. Also check for the correct amount of freeplay (see Chapter 1).

• Check that the engine shuts off when the kill switch is operated.

• Check that sidestand and centrestand

(where fitted) return springs hold the stand securely up when retracted.

Fuel

• This may seem obvious, but check that you have enough fuel to complete your journey. If you notice signs of fuel leakage rectify the cause immediately.

• Ensure you use the correct grade fuel see Chapter 4 Specifications.

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and Servicing

Contents

Air filter-cleaning and replacement Battery - charging see Chapter 9 Battery - check 11 Battery- removal, installation, inspection and

maintenance see Chapter 9 Brake caliper and master cylinder seals - replacement 26 Brake hoses - replacement 28 Brake pads - wear check 8 Brake system - check 9 Brakes - fluid change 25 Carburettor synchronisation 4 Clutch - check and adjustment 10 Cooling system - check 16

Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling 22

Cylinder compression - check 30

Drive chain and sprockets - check, adjustment and lubrication .... 1

Engine oil and oil filter change 21 Engine oil change 7

Degrees of difficulty

Engine oil pressure - check 31 Front forks - oil change 33 Fuel hoses - replacement 32 Fuel system - check 6 Headlight aim - check and adjustment 29 Idle speed - check and adjustment 3

Nuts and bolts - tightness check 15 Sidestand and centrestand (where fitted) - check 14 Spark plug gaps - check and adjustment 2 Stand, lever pivots and cables - lubrication 18 Steering head bearings - freeplay check and adjustment 20 Steering head bearings - lubrication 24 Suspension - check 19 Swingarm and suspension linkage bearings - re-greasing 23 Throttle and choke cables - check 17 Valve clearances - check and adjustment 27 Wheel bearings - check 13 Wheels and tyres - general check 12

1-1

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Specifications

Engine

Spark plugs

Type NGK CR9E or Nippondenso U27ESR-N Electrode gap 0.7 to 0.8 mm

Engine idle speed

YZF models 1200 to 1300 rpm FZS models 1150 to 1250 rpm

Carburettor synchronisation - intake vacuum

YZF models FZS models

Carburettor synchronisation - max. difference between carburettors

YZF models FZS models

Valve clearances (COLD engine)

Intake valves 0.11 to 0.20 mm Exhaust valves 0.21 to 0.30 mm

Cylinder compression

YZF

Standard 220 psi (15.2 Bar) Maximum 235 psi (16.2 Bar) Minimum 185 psi (12.8 Bar) Max. difference between cylinders 14.5 psi (1.0 Bar)

FZS models

Standard 213 psi (14.7 Bar) Maximum 225 psi (15.5 Bar) Minimum 170 psi (11.7 Bar) Max. difference between cylinders 14.5 psi (1.0 Bar)

Engine oil pressure

YZF models FZS models

225 mmHg

230 to 250 mmHg 10 mmHg

10 mmHg

models

50 to 64 psi (3.5 to 4.4 Bar)

64 psi (4.4 Bar)

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Specifications

Miscellaneous

Drive chain slack

YZF models 20 to 30 mm FZS models

1998

and

1999

2000 models 30 to 45 mm

Chain stretch limit (see text)

YZF models 151mm FZS models 150 mm

Rear brake pedal height (see text)

YZF models 42 mm

FZS models 36.6 mm Clutch cable freeplay 10 to 15 mm at lever end Throttle cable freeplay

YZF models 3 to 7 mm

FZS models 3 to 5 mm Tyre pressures (cold) see Daily (pre-ride) checks

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Engine/transmission oil type see Daily (pre-ride) checks Engine/transmission oil capacity

YZF models

Oil change 2.6 litres Oil and filter change 2.9 litres Following engine overhaul - dry engine, new filter 3.5 litres

FZS models

Oil change 2.5 litres Oil and filter change 2.7 litres Following engine overhaul - dry engine, new filter 3.5 litres

Coolant type 50% corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol anti-freeze, 50% distilled

Coolant capacity 1.95 litres Brake fluid DOT 4 Drive chain SAE 30 to 50 W engine oil or chain lubricant suitable for O-ring chains

30 to 40 mm

water. Note: Yamaha specify that soft tap water can be used, but NOT

hard water. If in doubt, boil the water first or use only distilled water.

Miscellaneous

Steering head bearings Lithium-based multi-purpose grease Swingarm pivot and bearings Molybdenum disulphide grease Suspension linkage bearings Molybdenum disulphide grease Bearing seal lips Lithium-based multi-purpose grease Gearchange lever/clutch lever/front brake lever/

rear brake pedal/sidestand/centrestand pivots Lithium-based multi-purpose grease Cables 10W30 motor oil Throttle grip Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant

Torque settings

Alternator cover bolts 12 Mm Cooling system drain plug(s) 10 Nm Fork clamp bolts (top yoke) 30 Nm Main oil gallery plug 8 Nm Oil drain plug 43 Nm Oil filter 17 Nm Rear axle nut 117 Nm Spark plugs

YZF models 12.5 Nm

FZS models 13 Nm Steering head bearing adjuster nut (using Yamaha service tool)

YZF models

Initial setting 52 Nm Final setting 3 Nm

FZS models

Initial setting 52 Nm Final setting 18Nm

Steering stem nut 110 Nm

Maintenance schedule K

Note: The daily (pre-ride) checks outlined in the owner's manual covers those items which should

perform

inspected

the

on a

daily

pre-ride inspection

basis. Always

every

maintenance interval (in addition to the procedures listed). The intervals listed below are the intervals recommended by the manufacturer for each particular operation

Daily (pre-ride)

See 'Daily (pre-ride) checks' at the beginning of this manual.

After

the

initial

Note: This check is usually performed by a Yamaha dealer after the first

600

miles

out

according

(1000

carried

600

miles (1000

km)

from new. Thereafter, maintenance

to the

following

intervals

of the

km)

schedule.

Every 600 miles (1000 km)

D Check, adjust, clean and lubricate the drive chain

(Section 1)

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months (whichever comes sooner)

H Check the spark plug gaps (Section 2) I] Check and adjust the idle speed (Section 3) D Check/adjust the carburettor synchronisation

(Section 4)

D Clean and check the air filter element (Section 5)

I Check the fuel system and hoses (Section 6)

D Change the engine oil (Section 7)

j Check the brake pads (Section 8)

L Check the brake system and brake light switch

operation (Section 9) D Check and adjust the clutch (Section 10) C Check the battery (Section 11)

M Check the condition of the wheels and tyres

(Section 12)

H Check the wheel bearings (Section 13)

C Check the sidestand and centrestand (where fitted)

(Section 14)

I! Check the tightness of all nuts, bolts and fasteners

(Section 15) Check the cooling system (Section 16)

Check and adjust the throttle and choke cables (Section 17)

3 Lubricate the clutch/gearshift/brake lever/brake

pedal/sidestand/centrestand pivots and the throttle/choke/clutch cables (Section 18)

^ Check the suspension (Section 19)

H Check and adjust the steering head bearings

(Section 20)

during the model years covered in this manual. Your owner's manual may have different intervals for your model.

Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or 12 months (whichever comes sooner)

Carry out all the items under the 4000 mile (6000 km) check, plus the following

D Change the engine oil and filter (Section 21) D Replace the spark plugs (US models) (Section 12)

Every 16,000 miles (24,000 km) or two years (whichever comes sooner)

Carry out all the items under the 8000 mile (12000 km) check, plus the following

D Replace the coolant (Section 22) D Re-grease the swingarm and suspension linkage

bearings (Section 23). D Re-grease the steering head bearings (Section 24). D Change the brake fluid (see Section 25) n Replace the brake master cylinder and caliper

seals (Section 26)

Every 28,000 miles (42,000 km) or 42 months (whichever comes sooner)

Carry out all the items under the 4000 mile (6000 km) check, plus the following

D Check and adjust the valve clearances (Section 27)

Every four years

D Replace the brake hoses (Section 28)

Non-scheduled maintenance

D Check and adjust the headlight aim (Section 29) D Check the cylinder compression (Section 30) D Check the engine oil pressure (see Section 31) n Replace the fuel hoses (Section 32) D Change the front fork oil (Section 33)

1-4 Component location - YZF600R Thundercat

Component locations on left-hand side

1 Clutch cable adjuster 2 Steering head bearings 3 Air filter housing 4 Model code label 5 Fuse box 6 Drive chain adjuster

7 Rear suspension pre-load 8 Coolant drain plug

9 Engine oil drain plug

10 Carburettor vent hose

11 Engine oil filter

12 Speedometer cable

adjuster

11 10 9 87

Component locations on right-hand side

1 Coolant reservoir 2 Idle speed adjuster 3 Front brake fluid reservoir 4 Frame number 5 Cooling system pressure

cap

6 Engine oil level inspection

window 7 Engine number 8 Engine oil filler plug 9 Rear brake fluid reservoir

1 Steering head bearings 2 Clutch cable adjuster 3 Cooling system pressure

cap

4 Air filter housing 5 Model code label

6 Drive chain adjuster 7 Rear suspension pre-load

adjuster 8 Coolant drain plug 9 Idle speed adjuster

10 Engine oil drain plug 11 Engine oil filter

Component location - FZS600 Fazer 1-5

Component locations on left-hand side

1 Fuse box 2 Coolant reservoir 3 Front brake fluid reservoir 4 Frame number 5 Engine oil level inspection

window 6 Engine number 7 Engine oil filler plug 8 Rear brake fluid reservoir

Component locations on right-hand side

•6 Maintenance procedures

Introduction

1 This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her motorcycle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. 2 Deciding where to start or plug into the routine maintenance schedule depends on several factors. If the warranty period on your motorcycle has just expired, and if it has been maintained according to the warranty standards, you may want to pick up routine maintenance as it coincides with the next mileage or calendar interval. If you have owned the machine for some time but have

never performed any maintenance on it, then you may want to start at the nearest interval and include some additional procedures to ensure that nothing important is overlooked. If you have just had a major engine overhaul, then you may want to start the maintenance routine from the beginning. If you have a used machine and have no knowledge of its history or maintenance record, you may desire to combine all the checks into one large service initially and then settle into the maintenance schedule prescribed. 3 Before beginning any maintenance or

Every 600 miles (1000 km)

2 To check the chain, place the bike on its

1 Drive chain and sprockets -

check, adjustment and ^ lubrication 2^

Check

1 A neglected drive chain won't last long and can quickly damage the sprockets. Routine chain adjustment and lubrication isn't difficult and will ensure maximum chain and sprocket life.

1.3 Push up on the chain and measure the slack

sidestand and shift the transmission into neutral. 3 Push up on the bottom run of the chain and measure the slack midway between the two sprockets, then compare your measurement to that listed in this Chapter's Specifications (see illustration). As the chain stretches with wear, adjustment will periodically be necessary (see below). Since the chain will rarely wear evenly, roll the bike forwards so that another section of chain can be checked; do this several times to check the entire length of chain. 4 Check the amount of chain stretch by measuring a 10-link section of clean chain as shown and comparing the length to the

Specifications (see illustration). Repeat the test at 2 or 3 other places on the chain. If the chain has stretched beyond the limit, replace it with a new one (see Chapter 6). 5 In some cases where lubrication has been

neglected, corrosion and galling may cause the links to bind and kink, which effectively shortens the chain's length. Such links should

be thoroughly cleaned and worked free. If the chain is tight between the sprockets, rusty or

kinked, it's time to replace it with a new one. If

repair, the machine should be cleanec thoroughly, especially around the oil filter spark plugs, valve cover, side panels

carburettors, etc. Cleaning will help ensure that dirt does not contaminate the engine anc will allow you to detect wear and damage thai could otherwise easily go unnoticed. 4 Certain maintenance information i; sometimes printed on decals attached to the motorcycle. If the information on the decal; differs from that included here, use the information on the decal.

you find a tight area, mark it with felt pen oi paint, and repeat the measurement after the bike has been ridden. If the chain's still tight ir the same area, it may be damaged or worn Because a tight or kinked chain can damage the transmission output shaft bearing, it's i good idea to replace it with a new one (see Chapter 6). 6 Check the entire length of the chain fo damaged rollers, loose links and pins, anc missing O-rings and replace it if damage is found. Note: Never install a new chain on ok

sprockets, and never use the old chain if yot install new sprockets - renew the chain anc sprockets as a set.

7 Remove the front sprocket cover (sef Chapter 6). Check the teeth on the engin! sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket for wea

(see illustration).

8 Inspect the drive chain slider on thi swingarm for excessive wear and renew it i worn (see Chapter 6).

Adjustment

9 Rotate the rear wheel until the chain ii

positioned with the tightest point at the centri of its bottom run, then place the machine oi its sidestand.

OHO

0)(0

OHO

0)(0

1.4 Check the amount of stretch by measuring a 10-link length as shown

DIRECTION OF ROTATION

ENGINE SPROCKET WORN TOOTH

1.7 Check the sprockets in the areas indicated to see if they are worn excessively

REAR SPROCKET WORN TOOTH

061SH

Every 600 miles (1000 km)

1.10 Slacken the rear axle nut (arrowed)

1.11b On YZF models, check the relative position of the notch (A)

10 Slacken the axle nut (see illustration). 11 Slacken the adjuster locknut on each side of the swingarm, then turn the adjusters evenly until the amount of freeplay specified at the beginning of the Chapter is obtained at the centre of the bottom run of the chain (see illustration). Following chain adjustment, check that each chain adjustment marker is in the same position in relation to the marks on the swingarm (see illustrations). It is important each adjuster aligns with the same notch; if not, the rear wheel will be out of alignment with the front. Also check that there is no clearance between the adjuster and the end of the swingarm - push the wheel forwards to eliminate any. 12 If there is a discrepancy in the chain adjuster positions, adjust one of them so that its position is exactly the same as the other. Check the chain freeplay as described above and readjust if necessary. 13 Tighten the axle nut to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter, then tighten the adjuster locknuts securely (see

illustration).

with the lines (B) on each side

the machine and allowed to soak in the paraffin (see Chapter 6).

Caution: Don't use petrol, solvent or other cleaning fluids which might damage the internal sealing properties of the chain. Don't use high-pressure water. The entire process shouldn't take longer than ten minutes - if it does, the O-rings in the chain rollers could be damaged.

15 For routine lubrication, the best time to lubricate the chain is after the motorcycle has been ridden. When the chain is warm, the lubricant will penetrate the joints between the side plates better than when cold. Note:

Yamaha specifies SAE 30 to 50 W engine oil;

Lubrication

14 If required, wash the chain in paraffin (kerosene), then wipe it off and allow it to dry, using compressed air if available. If the chain is excessively dirty it should be removed from

1.13 Tighten the axle nut to the specified

1.11 a Slacken the locknut (A) and turn the adjuster (B) as required

1.11 c On FZS models, check the relative position of the washer

torque

(A) with the lines (B) on each side

do not use chain lube, which may contain solvents that could damage the O-rings, unless it is specified for O-ring chains. Apply

the lubricant to the area where the side plates overlap - not the middle of the rollers (see

illustration).

Apply the lubricant to the

top of the lower chain run,

so centrifugal force will work

it into the chain when the bike is moving. After applying the lubricant, let it soak in a few minutes before wiping off any excess.

1.15 Apply the lubricant to the overlap between the sideplates

•8 Maintenance procedures

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months

Check the threads, the washer and the

2 Spark plug gaps -

check and adjustment

1 Make sure your spark plug socket is the correct size before attempting to remove the plugs - a suitable one is supplied in the motorcycle's tool kit which is stored under the seat. 2 Using compressed air if available, clean the area around the base of the spark plugs to prevent any dirt falling into the engine when the plugs are removed. 3 Check that the cylinder location is marked on each plug lead, then pull the spark plug cap off each spark plug (see illustration). Using either the plug removing tool supplied in the bike's toolkit or a deep socket type wrench, unscrew the plugs from the cylinder head (see illustration). Lay each plug out in relation to its cylinder; if any plug shows up a problem it will then be easy to identify the troublesome cylinder. 4 Inspect the electrodes for wear. Both the centre and side electrodes should have square edges and the side electrodes should be of uniform thickness. Look for excessive deposits and evidence of a cracked or chipped insulator around the centre electrode. Compare your spark plugs to the colour spark plug reading chart at the end of this manual.

ceramic insulator body for cracks and other damage. 5 If the electrodes are not excessively worn, and if the deposits can be easily removed with a wire brush, the plugs can be re-gapped and re-used (if no cracks or chips are visible in the insulator). If in doubt concerning the condition of the plugs, replace them with new ones, as the expense is minimal. On UK models, Yamaha do not specify a replacement interval, but leave it to the discretion of the owner. On US models, Yamaha specify that the spark plugs should be renewed at every second service interval. 6 Cleaning spark plugs by sandblasting is permitted, provided you clean the plugs with a high flash-point solvent afterwards. 7 Before installing the plugs, make sure they are the correct type and heat range and check the gap between the electrodes (see illustrations). Compare the gap to that specified and adjust as necessary. If the gap must be adjusted, bend the side electrodes only and be very careful not to chip or crack the insulator nose (see illustration). Make sure the washer is in place on the plug before installing it. 8 Since the cylinder head is made of aluminium, which is soft and easily damaged, thread the plugs into the heads turning the tool by hand (see illustration). Once the

plugs are finger-tight, the job can be finished with a spanner on the tool supplied or a

socket drive (see illustration 2.3b). If a torque wrench can be applied, tighten the spark plugs to the specified torque setting. Otherwise tighten them according the instructions on the box, or by 1/4 to 1/2 turn ; after they have been fully hand tightened and have seated. Do not over-tighten them.

As the plugs are quite

, , recessed, you can slip a

HllUT

tool to thread it into place. The hose will grip the plug well enough to turn it, but will start to slip if the plug begins to cross-thread in the hole - this will prevent damaged threads.

9 Reconnect the spark plug caps, making sure they are securely connected to the correct cylinder. Install all other components

previously removed.

HllUT

Workshop Tips' in the section.

short

length

end of the plug to use as a

Stripped plug threads in the

I cylinder head can be

repaired

insert - see

hose over

with a Heli-Coil

Tools and

Reference

the

-am

2.3a Remove the spark plug cap ,

2.7b Using a feeler gauge to measure the 2.7c Adjust the electrode gap by bending 2.8 Thread the plug as far as possible spark plug electrode gap the side electrode only turning the tool by hand

2.3b ... then unscrew the spark plug 2.7a Using a wire type gauge to measure the spark plug electrode gap

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months 1-9

3.3a Idle speed adjuster screw (arrowed) YZF models

3 Idle speed -

check and adjustment

1 The idle speed should be checked and adjusted before and after the carburettors are synchronised (balanced) and when it is obviously too high or too low. Before

adjusting the idle speed, make sure the valve clearances and spark plug gaps are correct, and the air filter is clean. Also, turn the

handlebars back-and-forth and see if the idle speed changes as this is done. If it does, the throttle cable may not be adjusted or routed correctly, or may be worn out. This is a dangerous condition that can cause loss of control of the bike. Be sure to correct this problem before proceeding. 2 The engine should be at normal operating temperature, which is usually reached after 10 to 15 minutes of stop-and-go riding. Make sure the transmission is in neutral, and place the motorcycle on its stand. 3 The idle speed adjuster is located on the right-hand side of the engine on YZF models, and on the left-hand side on FZS models (see illustrations). With the engine idling, adjust

the idle speed by turning the adjuster screw

until

the

idle speed listed

Specifications is obtained. Turn the screw

clockwise to increase idle speed, and anticlockwise to decrease it. 4 Snap the throttle open and shut a few times, then recheck the idle speed. If necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure. 5 If a smooth, steady idle can't be achieved, the fuel/air mixture may be incorrect (check the pilot screw settings - see Chapter 4, Section 5) or the carburettors may need synchronising (see Section 4). Also check the intake manifold rubbers for cracks which will cause an air leak, resulting in a weak mixture.

this Chapter's

3.3b Idle speed adjuster screw (arrowed) •

4 Carburettor synchronisation

Warning: Petrol (gasoline) is

extremely flammable, so take

on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a fire extinguisher suitable for a Class B type fire (flammable liquids) on hand.

take-off points on the intake manifolds. Do

not allow exhaust gases to build up in the

work area; either perform the check outside

or use an exhaust gas extraction system.

1 Carburettor synchronisation is simply the process of adjusting the carburettors so they pass the same amount of fuel/air mixture to

each cylinder. This is done by measuring the

4.4a Detach the hoses from their clips (A),

extra precautions when you work

Warning: Take great care not to burn your hand on the hot engine unit when accessing the gauge

then remove the blanking plugs (B)

FZS models

vacuum produced in each cylinder. Carburettors that are out of synchronisation will result in decreased fuel mileage, increased engine temperature, less than ideal throttle response and higher vibration levels. Before synchronising the carburettors, make sure the valve clearances and idle speed are properly set. 2 To properly synchronise the carburettors you will need a set of vacuum gauges or a manometer. These instruments measure engine vacuum, and can be obtained from motorcycle dealers or mail order parts suppliers. The equipment used should be suitable for a four cylinder engine and come complete with the necessary adapters and hoses to fit the take off points. Note: Because

of the nature of the synchronisation procedure and the need for special instruments, most owners leave the task to a Yamaha dealer.

3 Start the engine and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature, then shut it off. 4 On YZF models, remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). Detach the vacuum hoses from their clips on each frame beam (there are two hoses on each side), then pull the blanking plug out of the end of each hose in turn and attach the gauge or manometer hoses to them using a suitable union (see illustrations).

4.4b Connect the gauge hoses using suitable unions

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months

4.4c Connect the remote fuel supply to the fuel pump union

4.8a Carburettor synchronisation screws (arrowed) YZF models

On California models, only three of the hoses will have blanking plugs, while the other one will be attached to a union on one of the EVAP system components. Make sure the No. 1 gauge is attached to the hose from the No. 1 (left-hand) carburettor, and so on. Arrange a temporary fuel supply, either by using a small temporary tank with its hose attached to the fuel pump (see illustration), or by using an extra long fuel pipe to the now remote fuel tank. Alternatively, position the tank on a suitable base on the motorcycle, taking care not to scratch any paintwork, and making sure that the tank is safely and securely supported, and that access to the synchronising screws is not restricted. 5 On FZS models, remove the blanking plugs

from the take-off stubs on the intake

manifolds between each carburettor and the cylinder head and attach the gauge or manometer hoses to them using a suitable union (see illustration). Make sure the No. 1 gauge is attached to the hose from the No. 1 (left-hand) carburettor, and so on.

6 Start the engine and let it idle. If the gauges

are fitted with damping adjustment, set this so that the needle flutter is just eliminated but so that they can still respond to small changes in

pressure.

4.5 Remove the blanking cap (arrowed) from each intake manifold

4.8b Carburettor synchronisation screws (arrowed) •

7 The vacuum readings for all cylinders should be the same (see illustration). If the vacuum readings differ, proceed as follows. 8 The carburettors are balanced by turning the synchronising screws situated in-between each carburettor, in the throttle linkage (see

illustrations). Note: Do not press on the screws whilst adjusting them, otherwise a false reading will be obtained. First

synchronise No. 1 carburettor to No. 2 using the left-hand synchronising screw until the readings are the same. Then synchronise No. 3 carburettor to No. 4 using the right-hand screw. Finally synchronise Nos. 1 and 2 carburettors to Nos. 3 and 4 using the centre screw. When all the carburettors are synchronised, open and close the throttle quickly to settle the linkage, and recheck the gauge readings, readjusting if necessary. 9 When the adjustment is complete, recheck the vacuum readings, then adjust the idle speed (see Section 3) until the speed listed in this Chapter's Specifications is obtained. Remove the gauges and refit the blanking plugs or caps as required by your model (see Steps 4 and 5). On California models, do not forget to attach the vacuum hose to the EVAP system. On YZF models, detach the temporary fuel supply and install the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).

4.7 Carburettor sychronisation set-up

FZS models

5 Air filter-

cleaning and replacement

I I

1 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). On FZS models, remove the rubber trim cover, which is secured by two lugs. 2 Remove the screws securing the air filter cover to the filter housing, then remove the cover and withdraw the filter element from the housing (see illustrations).

5.2a On YZF models, remove the four

screws on each side (arrowed) and lift off

the cover..

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months 1-11

5.2b ... then withdraw the element 5.2c On FZS models, remove the screws

3 On YZF models, clean the element using a high flash-point solvent, then remove the solvent by patting the element dry. If available, use compressed air to dry the element. Smear the entire surface of the element with clean engine oil and allow it to soak in. Again pat the element to soak up any excess oil - the element should be wet with oil but none should be dripping off it. 4 On FZS models, tap the element on a hard surface to dislodge any large particles of dirt,

then if compressed air is available, use it to

clean the element, directing the air from the outside in (see illustration). 5 Check the element for signs of damage. If the element is torn or cannot be cleaned, or is obviously beyond further use, replace it with a

new

one.

6 Install the filter element, making sure it is

(arrowed) and lift off the cover ...

properly seated - on YZF models the element fits into the large slots in the housing (see illustration 5.2b). Fit the air filter cover, making sure the rubber seal is in place, and on YZF models making sure the gauze screen fits into the small slots behind the filter element (see illustrations). On FZS models, fit the rubber trim cover. Install the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). 7 Check that the collector in the air filter housing drain hose has not become blocked, and drain it if necessary - on YZF models the hose comes out of the rear left side of the housing, and on FZS it comes out of the front left side of the housing. 8 Check the crankcase breather hose between the engine and the air filter housing for loose connections, cracks and deterioration and replace it with a new one if necessary.

5.2d ... then withdraw the element

9 On YZF models, the surge tanks in the air intake system must also be drained and cleaned. Remove the fairing side panels to access them (see Chapter 8, Section 3). Release the clamps securing each tank to the intake in the fairing, to the air duct, to the filter housing, and to the hose on the top (see illustrations). Access to the front clamp screws is best achieved by turning the handlebars onto full lock. Remove the screws securing each tank and remove the tanks, noting how they fit. Flush the tanks out with clean water then allow them to drain. Repeat until all debris is removed, then allow them to dry before refitting them.

Caution: If the machine is continually ridden in dusty conditions, the filter should be cleaned more frequently.

5.4 Clean the element using compressed air if available

5.9a Slacken the front clamp (arrowed)...

5.6a Installing the cover on YZF models 5.6b Make sure the rubber seal is in place

5.9b . . . and the rear clamps (arrowed) and detach the top hose ...

5.9c . .. then remove the screws (arrowed)

- FZS shown

and detach the surge tank

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months

6.5 On YZF models, drain the carburettor vent hose collector (arrowed)

Fuel system check

Warning: Petrol (gasoline) is extremely flammable, so take extra

precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near

the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water.

When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a fire extinguisher suitable for a Class B type fire (flammable liquids) on hand.

Check

1 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4) and

check the tank, the fuel tap, the filter, the fuel

pump and the fuel hoses for signs of leakage,

deterioration or damage; in particular check that there is no leakage from the fuel hoses. Replace

any hoses which are cracked or deteriorated. 2 If the fuel tap is leaking, tighten the assembly screws and mounting bolts (see

Chapter 4). If leakage persists remove the tap

and disassemble it, noting how the

components fit. Inspect all components and

replace any that are worn or damaged. Some components are available individually, though

it may be necessary to replace the whole tap,

depending on the fault.

3 If the carburettor gaskets are leaking, the

carburettors should be disassembled and rebuilt

6.8a In-line fuel filter (arrowed) YZF models

using new gaskets and seals (see Chapter 4). 4 On California models, check the EVAP system hoses for loose connections, cracks and deterioration and replace them with new ones if necessary. 5 On YZF models, remove the left-hand fairing side panel (see Chapter 8, Section 3), then remove the plug from the end of the carburettor vent hose on the left-hand side of the engine and allow any residue that has accumulated in the collector to completely drain (see illustration). Install the plug on completion.

Filter cleaning

6 Replacement of the fuel filter is advised after a particularly high mileage has been covered. It is also necessary if fuel starvation

is suspected. 7 A fuel strainer is mounted in the tank and is

integral with the fuel tap. Remove the fuel tank and the fuel tap (see Chapter 4). Clean the gauze strainer to remove all traces of dirt and fuel sediment. Check the gauze for holes. If any are found, a new tap should be fitted - the strainer is not available separately. 8 An in-line fuel filter is fitted in the hose from the fuel tap to the fuel pump - on YZF models,

it is on the underside of the fuel tank, on FZS

models it is next to the fuel pump (see

illustrations). Remove the fuel tank for access (see Chapter 4). If the filter is dirty or clogged or otherwise needs replacing, have a

rag handy to soak up any residual fuel, then release the clamps and disconnect the hoses from the filter. Release the filter from its holder and install the new filter so that its arrow

6.8b In-line fuel filter (arrowed) FZS models

points in the direction of fuel flow (i.e. towards!

the pump). Fit the hoses to unions on the filter!

and secure them with the clamps. Install the! fuel tank (see Chapter 4). Start the engine and! check that there are no leaks.

7 Engine oil change

Warning: Be careful whenl

draining the oil, as the exhaust! pipes, the engine, and the oil itsen can cause severe burns.

1 Consistent routine oil and filter changes arel

the single most important maintenance pro-J

cedure you can perform on a motorcycle. The!

oil not only lubricates the internal parts of thj

engine, transmission and clutch, but it alsJ acts as a coolant, a cleaner, a sealant, and a protectant. Because of these demands, the oil

takes a terrific amount of abuse and should bel

replaced often with new oil of the recomJ mended grade and type. The oil filter should be changed with every second oil change. 2 Before changing the oil, warm up the engine so the oil will drain easily. On YZF models, remove the left-hand fairing side panel (see Chapter 8, Section 3). 3 Put the motorcycle on its sidestand, and position a clean drain tray below the engine. Unscrew the oil filler cap from the clutch covei

to vent it and to act as a reminder that there is

no oil in the engine (see illustration). 4 Unscrew the oil drain plug from the lefthand side of the crankcase and allow the oil to flow into the drain tray (see illustrations).

7.3 Remove the oil filler cap from the clutch cover

7.4a Unscrew the crankcase oil drain plug ...

7.4b ... and allow the oil to drain

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months 1-13

7.4c To remove the old sealing washer,

Check

the

the drain plug and discard it if it is damaged or

worn

- it

will old one off using cutters (see illustration). 5 When the oil has completely drained, fit the plug

into

the

washer

required, setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter (see illustrations). Avoid overtightening, as damage to the crankcase will result. 6 Refill the engine to the proper level using

the recommended type and amount of oil (see

Daily

(pre-ride)

vertical,

the oil maximum and minimum level lines on the inspection window (see Daily (pre-ride)

checks). Install the filler cap. Start the engine and let it run for two or three minutes. Stop the engine, wait a few minutes, then check the

oil level. If necessary, add more oil to bring the level

up to the window. Check around the drain plug for leaks.

UTOJI35 Saving a little money on the VUUISl (jiff

\IM mU^f\

HINT

Every

so do not fit an oil pressure switch and warning light (the system fitted uses an oil level sensor), it is advisable to perform an oil pressure check (see Section 31).

8.2 Brake pad wear indicator (arrowed) -

cut it off

condition

and

often,

of the

probably

crankcase, using

if the engine is damaged asif the engine

a result.

and

tighten

checks).

level should

With

maximum level line

between good

erence

cheap

oils

and

especially

YZF shown

sealing

necessary

a new

it to the

the

lie

between

won't

washer

to cut the

sealing

torque

motorcycle

the

on the

pay off

Yamaha

7.5a Install the drain plug, using a new sealing washer if necessary ...

8 The old oil drained from the engine cannot be re-used and should be disposed of properly. Check with your local refuse disposal company, disposal facility or environmental agency to see whether they will accept the used oil for recycling. Don't pour used oil into drains or onto the ground.

Check the old oil carefully if it is very metallic coloured,

HilUT

break-in (new engine) or from insufficient lubrication. If there are flakes or chips of metal in the oil, then something is drastically wrong internally and the engine will have to be disassembled for inspection and repair. If there are pieces of fibre-like material in the oil, the clutch is experiencing excessive wear and should be checked.

9 On YZF models, install the left-hand fairing side panel (see Chapter 8).

then the engine is experiencing wear from

Brake pads -

wear check

I I

1 Each brake pad has wear indicators that can be viewed without removing the pads from the caliper. 2 The turned in corners of the brake pad backing material form the wear indicators when they are almost contacting the disc itself the pads must be replaced. The indicators are visible by looking at the bottom corner of the pads (see illustration). Note: Some after-

market pads may use different indicators,

such as a groove cut into the friction material, to those on the original equipment as shown. The pad is worn when the groove is no longer visible.

Caution: Do not allow the pads to wear to the extent that the indicators contact the disc itself as the disc will be damaged.

3 If the pads are worn to the indicators, new ones must be installed. If the pads are dirty or if you are in doubt as to the amount of friction material remaining, remove them for inspection (see Chapter 7). If required,

7.5b ... and tighten it to the specified torque

measure the amount of friction material remaining - the minimum is 0.5 mm. 4 Refer to Chapter 7 for details of pad replacement.

9 Brake system -

check

1 A routine general check of the brake system will ensure that any problems are discovered

and remedied before the rider's safety is jeopardised. 2 Check the brake lever and pedal for

looseness, improper or rough action, excessive play, bends, and other damage.

Replace any damaged parts with new ones (see Chapter 7). Clean and lubricate the lever and pedal pivots if their action is stiff or rough (see Section 18). 3 Make sure all brake fasteners are tight. Check the brake pads for wear (see Section 8) and make sure the fluid level in the reservoirs is correct (see Daily (pre-ride) checks). Look for leaks at the hose connections and check for cracks in the hoses themselves (see illustration). If the lever or pedal is spongy, bleed the brakes (see Chapter 7). 4 Make sure the brake light operates when the

front brake lever is pulled in. The front brake

light switch, mounted on the underside of the master cylinder, is not adjustable. If it fails to operate properly, check it (see Chapter 9).

5 Make sure the brake light is activated just

before the rear brake takes effect. If adjustment is necessary, hold the switch and turn the

9.3 Flex the brake hose and check for cracks, bulges and leaking fluid

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months

9.5 Rear brake light switch (arrowed) YZF shown

adjuster nut on the switch body until the brake

light is activated when required (see illustration). If the brake light comes on too

late, turn the nut clockwise. If the brake light comes on too soon or is permanently on, turn the nut anti-clockwise. If the switch doesn't operate the brake light, check it (see Chapter 9). 6 The front brake lever has a span adjuster which alters the distance of the lever from the

handlebar (see illustration). Each setting is

identified by a number on the adjuster which aligns with the arrow on the lever bracket. Pull the lever away from the handlebar and turn the adjuster ring until the setting which best suits the rider is obtained. There are four settings - setting one gives the largest span, and setting 4 the smallest. Make sure that the

pin on the brake lever holder is firmly seated

in the hole in the adjuster. 7 Check the position of the brake pedal. Yamaha recommend the distance between the top of the end of the brake pedal and the top of the rider's footpeg should be as specified at the beginning of the Chapter (see

9.6 Front brake lever span adjuster

illustration). If the pedal height is incorrect, or

if the rider's preference is different, slacken the clevis locknut on the master cylinder pushrod, then turn the pushrod using a spanner on the hex on the rod until the pedal is at the correct or desired height (see illustration). After adjustment check that the pushrod end is visible in the hole in the clevis. On completion tighten the locknut securely. Adjust the rear brake light switch after adjusting the pedal height (see Step 5).

10 Clutch-

check and adjustment

1 Check that the clutch lever operates smoothly and easily. 2 If the clutch lever operation is heavy or stiff, remove the cable (see Chapter 2) and lubricate it (see Section 18). If the cable is still stiff, fit a new one. Install the lubricated or new cable (see Chapter 2).

3 With the cable operating smoothly, checkl that the clutch lever is correctly adjusted.!

Periodic adjustment is necessary to com-l

pensate for wear in the clutch plates and! stretch of the cable. Check that the amount of freeplay at the clutch lever end is within thel specifications listed at the beginning of the!

Chapter (see illustration). 4 If adjustment is required, loosen thel

lockring on the adjuster at the top of the cable! and turn the adjuster in or out until thel

required amount of freeplay is obtained (seel

illustration). To increase freeplay, turn thel adjuster in. To reduce freeplay, turn thel adjuster out. Tighten the locking ring securely.! 5 If all the adjustment has been taken up all the lever, reset the adjuster to give thai

maximum amount of freeplay, then set thel

release mechanism adjuster in the front| sprocket cover as described below: 6 On YZF models, remove the left-hand fairing side panel (see Chapter 8, Section 3). 7 Remove the rubber cover from the clutch

release mechanism set in the engine sprocket

9.7a Measure the distance between the top of the footpeg and the top of the brake pedal as shown

9.7b Slacken the locknut (A) and turn the pushrod using the hex (B) making sure the rod end is still visible in the hole (C)

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months 1-15

10.3 Measuring clutch cable freeplay 10.4 Slacken the lockring (A) and turn the adjuster (B) as required

cover (see illustration). Slacken the locknut on the release mechanism adjuster screw, then turn

the

adjuster screw then back it off 1/4 turn (see illustration). When doing this, counter-hold the locknut as shown to prevent it from tightening and locking the adjuster. Now counter-hold the adjuster screw to prevent it turning and tighten the locknut. Replace the rubber cover (see illustration). 8 Now adjust the freeplay using the adjuster at the lever end of the cable as described in Step 4 until 9 On YZF models, install the left-hand fairing side panel (see Chapter 8).

the

freeplay

until

resistance

correct.

felt,

11 Battery-

check

1 All models are fitted with a sealed battery

which

requires

attempt to remove the battery caps to check the electrolyte level or battery specific gravity. Removal will damage the caps, resulting in electrolyte leakage and battery damage.

2 All that should be done is to check that the terminals are clean and tight and that the casing is not damaged or leaking. See Chapter 9 for further details.

maintenance.

Note:

Do not

Caution: Be extremely careful when handling or working around the battery. The electrolyte is very caustic and an explosive gas (hydrogen) is given off when the battery is charging. 3 If the machine is not in regular use, discon-

nect the battery and give it a refresher charge every four to six weeks (see Chapter 9).

12 Wheels and tyres -

general check

Tyres

1 Check the tyre condition and tread depth thoroughly - see Daily (pre-ride) checks.

Wheels

2 Cast wheels as fitted on all models are virtually maintenance free, but they should be kept clean and checked periodically for

cracks and other damage. Also check the wheel runout and alignment (see Chapter 7). Never attempt to repair damaged cast wheels; they must be replaced with new ones. Check the valve rubber for signs of damage or deterioration and have it replaced if necessary. Also, make sure the valve cap is in place and tight.

10.7a Remove the rubber cover ...

13 Wheel bearings-

check

1 Wheel bearings will wear over a period of time and result in handling problems. 2 Support the motorcycle upright using an auxiliary stand on YZF models or the centrestand on FZS models. Check for any play in the bearings by pushing and pulling

the wheel against the hub (see illustration).

Also rotate the wheel and check that it rotates

smoothly.

10.7b ... then slacken the locknut using a ring spanner and turn the adjuster using a

screwdriver as described

10.7c On completion, replace the rubber cover

13.2 Checking for play in the wheel bearings

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months

17.9a Choke cable adjuster lockring (A) and adjuster (B) -

8 If this fails to improve the operation of the

choke, a new cable must be installed. Note that in very rare cases the fault could lie in the

YZF models

carburettors rather than the cable, necessitating the removal of the carburettors and inspection of the choke plungers (see Chapter 4). 9 Make sure there is a small amount of freeplay in the cable before the plungers move. If there isn't, check that the cable is seating correctly at the carburettor end. If it is, slacken the lockring on the cable adjuster and turn the adjuster as required until there is some freeplay (see illustrations) - on FZS models, remove the fairing for improved access to the adjuster (see Chapter 8). Otherwise, renew the cable.

18 Stand, lever pivots

18.3a Lubricating a cable with a pressure

lubricator. Make sure the tool seals around

18.3b Lubricating a cable with a makeshift

the Inner cable

funnel and motor oil

1 Since the controls, cables and various other components of a motorcycle are exposed to the elements, they should be lubricated periodically to ensure safe and trouble-free operation. 2 The footrests, clutch and brake levers, brake pedal, gearshift lever linkage and sidestand/centrestand pivots should be

lubricated frequently. In order for the lubricant to be applied where it will do the most good, the component should be disassembled.

However, if chain and cable lubricant is being

used, it can be applied to the pivot joint gaps and will usually work its way into the areas where friction occurs. If motor oil or light grease is being used, apply it sparingly as it

may attract dirt (which could cause the controls to bind or wear at an accelerated rate). Note:

One of the best lubricants for the control lever pivots is a dry-film lubricant (available from many sources by different names).

3 To lubricate the cables, disconnect the

relevant cable at its upper end, then lubricate the cable with a pressure adapter, or if one is

not available, using the set-up shown (see

illustrations). See Chapter 4 for the throttle

and choke cable removal procedures, and

Chapter 2 for the clutch cable.

and cables lubrication

17.9b Choke cable adjuster lockring (A) and adjuster (B) FZS models

4 The speedometer cable should be removed (see Chapter 9, Section 15) and the innel cable withdrawn from the outer cable and lubricated with motor oil or cable lubricant. Da not lubricate the upper few inches of the cable as the lubricant may travel up into the instrument head.

19 Suspension -

check

1 The suspension components must be maintained in top operating condition to ensure rider safety. Loose, worn or damaged suspension parts decrease the motorcycle's stability and control.

Front suspension

2 While standing alongside the motorcycle, apply the front brake and push on the handlebars to compress the forks several times. See if they move up-and-down smoothly without binding. If binding is felt, the forks should be disassembled and inspected (see Chapter 6). 3 Inspect the area around the dust seal for signs of oil leakage, then carefully lever off the dust seal using a flat-bladed screwdriver and inspect the area around the fork seal (see

illustrations). If leakage is evident, new seals

19.3a Lever off the dust seal...

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months 1-19

19.3b ... and check underneath it for

must tubes for scratches, corrosion and pitting as these will cause premature seal failure. If the damage is excessive new tubes should be installed (see Chapter 6). 4 Check the tightness of all suspension nuts and bolts to be sure none have worked loose, referring to the torque settings specified at the beginning of Chapter 6.

signs of oil leakage

fitted

(see Chapter

6).

Check

the

fork

Rear suspension

5 Inspect the rear shock for fluid leakage and tightness of its mountings. If leakage is found, a new shock should be installed (see Chapter 6). 6

With

the aid of an

bike, compress the rear suspension several times. It should move up and down freely without binding. If any binding is felt, the worn

or faulty component must be identified and

renewed. The problem could be due to either the shock absorber, the suspension linkage components or the swingarm components. 7 Support the motorcycle using an auxiliary stand

(YZF models) models) so that the rear wheel is off the ground. Grab the swingarm and rock it from side to side

-there should be no discernible movement at the rear (Yamaha specify a maximum of 1 mm) (see illustration). If there's a little movement or a slight clicking can be heard, inspect the tightness of all the rear suspension mounting bolts and nuts, referring to the torque settings specified at the beginning of Chapter 6, and recheck for movement. Next, grasp the top of the rear

wheel

and

no discernible freeplay before the shock

absorber begins to compress (see illustration).

assistant

or the

centrestand (FZS

pull

upwards - there should

support

the

19.7a Checking for play in the swingarm bearings

Any freeplay felt in either check indicates worn bearings in the suspension linkage or swingarm, or worn shock absorber mountings. The worn components must be renewed (see Chapter 6). 8 To make an accurate assessment of the swingarm bearings, remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7) and the bolt securing the suspension linkage rods to the swingarm (see Chapter 6). Grasp the rear of the swingarm with one hand and place your other hand at the junction of the swingarm and the frame. Try to move the rear of the swingarm from side-to-side. Any wear (play) in the bearings should be felt as movement between the swingarm and the frame at the front. If there is any play the swingarm will be felt to move forward and backward at the front (not from side-to-side). Alternatively, measure the amount of freeplay at the swingarm end Yamaha specify a maximum of 1 mm. Next, move the swingarm up and down through its full travel. It should move freely, without any binding or rough spots. If any play in the swingarm is noted or if the swingarm does not move freely, the bearings must be removed for inspection or renewal (see Chapter 6).

20 Steering head bearings - ft^

freeplay check and adjustment

1 This motorcycle is equipped with caged ball steering head bearings which can become dented, rough or loose during normal use of the machine. In extreme cases, worn or loose

19.7b Checking for play in the suspension linkage bearings

steering head bearings can cause steering wobble - a condition that is potentially dangerous.

Check

2 Support the motorcycle in an upright position using an auxiliary stand (YZF models) or the centrestand (FZS models). Raise the front wheel off the ground either by having an assistant push down on the rear or by placing a support under the engine. 3 Point the front wheel straight-ahead and slowly move the handlebars from side-toside. Any dents or roughness in the bearing races will be felt and the bars will not move smoothly and freely. 4 Next, grasp the fork sliders and try to pull and push them forward and backward (see illustration). Any looseness in the steering head bearings will be felt as front-to-rear movement of the forks. If play is felt in the bearings, adjust the steering head as follows.

Freeplay in the fork due to worn fork bushes can be misinterpreted for steering head bearing play - do not confuse the two.

Adjustment

5 Displace the handlebars from the top yoke (see Chapter 6). 6 Slacken the fork clamp bolts in the top yoke (see illustration). Unscrew the steering stem nut and remove it along with its washer (see

illustration).

20.4 Checking for play in the steering head bearings

20.6a Slacken the fork clamp bolt (arrowed) on each side ...

20.6b ... and unscrew the steering stem nut (arrowed)

i-2o Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months

20.7 Ease the top yoke up off the steering 20.8a Remove the tabbed lockwasher.

20.9 Make sure the torque wrench arm is at right angles (90°) to

7 Gently ease the top yoke upwards off the fork tubes and position it clear, using a rag to protect the tank or other components (see

illustration).

8 Remove the tabbed lockwasher, noting how it fits, then unscrew and remove the locknut using either a C-spanner, a peg spanner or a drift located in one of the

notches (see illustrations). Remove the washer (see illustration 20.11a). 9 To adjust the bearings as specified by Yamaha, a special service tool (part No. 90890-01403) and a torque wrench are required. If the tool is available, first slacken

stem and forks

20.11 a Fit the washer .

the tool

20.10 If the tool is not available, adjust the bearings as described

the adjuster nut, then tighten it to the initial torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter, making sure the torque wrench handle is at right angles (90°) to the line between the adjuster nut and the wrench socket in the special tool (see illustration). Now slacken the nut so that it is loose, then tighten it to the final torque setting specified. Check that the steering is still able to move freely from side to side, but that all freeplay is eliminated. 10 If the Yamaha tool is not available, using either a C-spanner, a peg spanner or a drift located in one of the notches, slacken the

20.11b ... and the locknut

20.8b . .. then unscrew the locknut

adjuster nut slightly until pressure is justl released, then tighten it until all freeplay is; removed, then tighten it a little more (see

illustration). This pre-loads the bearings. Now] slacken the nut, then tighten it again, setting it so that all freeplay is just removed yet the! steering is able to move freely from side to side. To do this tighten the nut only a little at a time, and after each tightening repeat the! checks outlined above (Steps 2 to 4) until the bearings are correctly set. The object is to set j the adjuster nut so that the bearings are under, a very light loading, just enough to remove any i freeplay.

Caution: Take great care not to apply excessive pressure because this will cause

premature failure of the bearings.

11 With the bearings correctly adjusted, install the washer and the locknut (see illustrations). Tighten the locknut finger-tight,

then tighten it further until its notches align with those in the adjuster nut. If necessary, counter-hold the adjuster nut and tighten the

locknut using a C-spanner or drift until the

notches align, but make sure the adjuster nut does not turn as well. Install the tabbed lockwasher so that the tabs fit into the notches in both the locknut and adjuster nut

(see illustration 20.8a)

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months 1-21

20.12a Fit the washer ...

12 Fit the top yoke onto the steering stem (see illustration 20.7), then install the washer and steering stem nut and tighten it to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter (see illustrations). Now tighten

20.12b ... and the steering stem nut...

both the fork clamp bolts to the specified torque setting (see illustration). 13 Check the bearing adjustment as described above and re-adjust if necessary.

14 Install the handlebars (see Chapter 6).

20.12d Now tighten the fork clamp bolts to

Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or 12 months

Carry

out all the

(6000 km) check, plus the following:

items under

the

4000 mile

21 Engine oil and

oil filter change

Warning: Be careful when draining the oil, as the exhaust pipes, the engine, and the oil itself can cause severe burns.

1 On YZF models, remove the fairing side

panels (see Chapter 8, Section 3). 2 Drain the engine oil as described in Section 7, Steps 1 to 5. 3 Now place the drain tray below the oil filter, which is on the front of the engine at the front. Unscrew the oil filter using a filter

removing strap, chain or wrench and tip any

residue oil into the drain tray (see

illustrations). Wipe any oil off the exhaust

pipes to prevent too much smoke when you start it.

4 Smear clean engine oil onto the rubber seal on the new filter, then manoeuvre it into

position and screw it onto the engine until the seal just seats (see illustrations). If the correct tools are available, tighten the filter to

the torque setting specified at the beginning

of the Chapter (see illustration). Otherwise,

tighten the filter as tight as possible by hand,

or by the number of turns specified on the

filter or its packaging. Note: Do not use a

strap or chain filter removing tool to tighten

the filter as you will damage it.

20.12c ... and tighten it to the specified torque

the specified torque

21.3a Unscrew the filter ...

21.3b .. . and drain the oil into the tray

21.4a Smear some clean oil onto the seal..

.22 Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or 12 months

5 Refill the engine to the proper level as described in Section 7, Steps 6 to 8. 6 On YZF models, install the fairing side

panels (see Chapter 8).

21.4b ... then thread the filter onto the cooler...

Every 16,000 miles (24,000 km) or two years

Carry out all the items under the 4000 mile (6000 km) and 8000 mile (12,000 km) checks:

22 Cooling system -

draining, flushing and refilling

Warning: Allow the engine to cool completely before performing this maintenance operation. Also,

don't allow antifreeze to come into contact with your skin or the painted surfaces of the motorcycle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open

22.2s Unscrew the water pump drain

plug ...

container or in puddles on the floor; children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell and may drink it. Check with local authorities (councils) about disposing of antifreeze. Many communities have collection centres which will see that antifreeze is disposed of safely. Antifreeze is also combustible, so don't store it near open flames.

Draining

1 On YZF models, remove the fairing side panels and the seat (see Chapter 8). Slacken the right-hand air duct clamp screws and twist the duct round. On FZS models remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). Remove the pressure cap from the radiator (YZF models)

22.2b ... and allow the coolant to drain

or filler neck (FZS models) by turning it anticlockwise until it reaches a stop (see illustrations 16.6a and 16.6b). If you hear a hissing sound (indicating there is still pressure in the system), wait until it stops. Now press down on the cap and continue turning the cap until it can be removed. 2 Position a suitable container beneath the water pump. Remove the coolant drain plug from the water pump and allow the coolant to completely drain from the system (see illustrations). Retain the old sealing washer for use during flushing. 3 On YZF models, now position the container beneath the cylinders, then remove the drain plugs from the cylinder block and allow the coolant to completely drain from the engine (see illustration). Retain the old sealing washers for use during flushing. 4 Position the container beneath the coolant reservoir and remove the filler cap. Release the clamp and detach the hose from the bottom of the reservoir and allow the coolant to completely drain (see illustrations). Fit the! hose back onto the reservoir and secure it I with the clamp.

Flushing

Note: Flushing the system with more than justl water will only be necessary if the coolant hasl not been renewed regularly and corrosion is\ apparent.

21 Ac ... and tighten it as described

22.3 Unscrew the cylinder drain plug (arrowed) on each side and allow the

coolant to drain

22.4a Coolant reservoir hose YZF models

22.4b Coolant reservoir hose • FZS models

Every 16,000 miles (24,000 km) or 2 years 1-23

5 Flush the system with clean tap water by inserting a garden hose in the radiator or filler neck.

Allow

the

water

to run

to the

completely.

8 to 10.

to the

beginning

Note:

off its

the

coolant, then

stand

through

first

system until it is clear and flows cleanly out of the drain hole(s). If the radiator is extremely corroded, remove it (see Chapter 3) and have it cleaned at a radiator shop. 6 Clean the drain hole(s) then install the drain plug(s)

using

the old 7 Fill the cooling system with clean water mixed

with a flushing compound. Make sure the flushing compound is compatible with aluminium components, and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. 8 Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Let it run for about ten minutes. 9 Stop the engine. Let it cool for a while, then cover

the

pressure

turn

anti-clockwise releasing any pressure that may be present in the system. Once the hissing stops, push down

on the cap and

10 Drain the system once again.

11 Fill the system with clean water and repeat

the

procedure

Refilling

12 Fit a new sealing washer onto the drain plug(s)

and

setting

specified

Chapter.

13 Fill the system via the radiator or filler

neck

with

the

Chapter's

Specifications).

coolant in slowly to minimise the amount of air entering the system. When the system

appears

full,

shake

slightly

place

the

bike system up. 14 When the system is full (all the way up to

sealing washer(s).

cap

with a heavy

remove

Steps

tighten

it/them

at the

proper coolant mixture (see this

pull

the

bike

dissipate

back

on the

the

rag and

stop,

torque

of the

Pour

the

stand

and

and top the

the top of the radiator or filler neck), install the pressure cap. Now fill the coolant reservoir to the UPPER level mark (see Daily (pre-ride)

checks).

15 Start the engine and allow it to idle for 2 to 3 minutes. Flick the throttle twistgrip part open 3 or 4 times, so that the engine speed rises to approximately 4000 - 5000 rpm, then stop the engine. Any air trapped in the system should have bled back to the radiator filler neck via the small-bore air bleed hoses.

16 Let the engine cool then remove the pressure cap as described in Step 1. Check that the coolant level is still up to the top of the radiator or filler neck. If it's low, add the specified mixture until it reaches the top. Refit the pressure cap. 17 Check the coolant level in the reservoir and top up if necessary. 18 Check the system for leaks. 19 Do not dispose of the old coolant by pouring it down the drain. Instead pour it into

a heavy plastic container, cap it tightly and take it into an authorised disposal site or service station - see Warning at the beginning of this Section. 20 Install the air filter housing, fuel tank, body panels and seat as required by your model (see Chapters 4 and 8).

23 Swingarm and suspension f^

linkage bearings - *s

re-greasing ^

1 Over a period of time the grease will harden or dirt will penetrate the bearings. 2 The rear suspension components are not equipped with grease nipples. Remove the swingarm and the suspension linkage as described in Chapter 6 for greasing of the bearings.

24 Steering head bearings -

lubrication

1 Over a period of time the grease will harden or may be washed out of the bearings by

incorrect use of jet washes. 2 Disassemble the steering head for regreasing of the bearings. Refer to Chapter 6 for details.

25 Brakes -

fluid change

1 The brake fluid should be replaced every

two years or whenever a master cylinder or caliper overhaul is carried out. Refer to the

brake bleeding section in Chapter 7, noting

that all old fluid must be pumped from the fluid reservoir and hydraulic line before filling with new fluid.

Old brake fluid is invariably much darker in colour than new fluid, making it easy to see when all old fluid has been expelled from the system.

26 Brake caliper

and master cylinder seals -

replacement

1 Brake seals will deteriorate over a period of time and lose their effectiveness, leading to sticking operation or fluid loss, or allowing the ingress of air and dirt. Refer to Chapter 7 and dismantle the components for seal replacement every two years.

Every

Carry

(6000

28,000

out all the

km)

check,

items under

plus

the

following

miles (42,000

the

4000 mile dowels

27 Valve clearances -

check and adjustment

1 The engine must be completely cool for this maintenance procedure, so let the machine sit overnight

before 2 Remove the valve cover (see Chapter 2). Each

cylinder are numbered 1 to 4 from left to right. 3

Make a chart so that a note of each clearance can be made against

the 4 Unscrew the bolts securing the alternator cover

and

noting

the

bolts

(see

beginning.

referred

relevant

remove hose guard secured

illustrations).

sketch

valve.

the

cover,

to by a

of all

Remove

number. They

valve positions

on FZS

models

by the

bottom

the two

km) or 42

for

engine can be turned using a 19 mm socket

safekeeping

on the alternator rotor bolt and turning it in an anti-clockwise direction only. Alternatively, place the motorcycle on an auxiliary stand so

27.4a Unscrew the alternator cover bolts

they

(arrowed)...

months

are

loose.

The

that

the

rear wheel

high gear and rotate the rear wheel by hand in its normal direction of rotation. 5 Turn the engine until the line next to the "T" mark on the rotor aligns with the crankcase

27.4b ... on FZS models, noting the hose

is off the

guard (arrowed)

ground, select

.24 Every 28,000 miles (42,000 km) or 42 months

27.5b ... and the dots are aligned and the camshaft lobes face

27.5a Turn the engine until the line next to the "T" mark aligns with the crankcase mating surfaces at the front...

mating surfaces at the front of the engine (see illustration), the camshaft lobes for the No. 1

(left-hand) cylinder face away from each other, and the dot on the end of each camshaft aligns with the dot on the camshaft holder (see illustration). If the cam lobes are facing towards each other and the dots do not align, rotate the engine anti-clockwise 360° (one full

turn) so that the line next to the "T" mark again

aligns with the crankcase mating surfaces. The camshaft lobes will now be facing away from each other and the dots will be aligned,

meaning the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC (top dead centre) on the compression stroke. 6 With No. 1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke, check the clearances on the No.1 cylinder intake and exhaust valves

(see illustration). Insert a feeler gauge of the

27.6 Measure the clearance using a feeler gauge

same thickness as the correct valve clearance (see Specifications) between the camshaft lobe and follower of each valve and check that it is a firm sliding fit - you should feel a slight drag when the you pull the gauge out. If not, use the feeler gauges to measure the exact clearance. Record the measured clearance on the chart. 7 Now turn the engine anti-clockwise 180° (half a turn) so that the camshaft lobes for the No. 2 cylinder are facing away from each other. The No. 2 cylinder is now at TDC on the compression stroke. Measure the clearances of the No. 2 cylinder valves using the method

described in Step 6. 8 Now turn the engine anti-clockwise 180° (half a turn) so that the line next to the "T" mark on the rotor again aligns with the crankcase mating surfaces, and the camshaft lobes for the No. 4 cylinder are facing away

from each other. The No. 4 cylinder is now at TDC on the compression stroke. Measure the

clearances of the No. 4 cylinder valves using

the method described in Step 6.

9 Now turn the engine anti-clockwise 180° (half a turn) so that the camshaft lobes for the No. 3 cylinder are facing away from each other. The No. 3 cylinder is now at TDC on the compression stroke. Measure the clearances of the No. 3 cylinder valves using the method described in Step 6. 10 When all clearances have been measured and charted, identify whether the clearance on

away from each other (FZS model shown - on YZF models note

that the intake camshaft dots are positioned slightly off the

vertical, at the 1 o'clock position)

any valve falls outside the range specified. Ifi does, the shim between the cam follower and the

valve must ness which will restore the correct clearance. 11 Shim replacement requires removal of the camshafts (see Chapter to remove both camshafts if shims from onl] one side of the engine need replacing. PI act rags over the spark plug holes and the cam chain tunnel to prevent a shim from droppinj into the engine on removal. 12 With the camshaft removed, remove the cam

follower retrieve the shim from the inside of the follower (see illustrations). If it is not in the follower, pick using either a magnet, a small screwdrivei with

a dab of to the grease), or a screwdriver and a pair d pliers (see illustration 27.15a). Do not allon the shim to fall into the engine. 13 A size mark should be stamped on thi upper face of the shim - a shim marked 175 it

1.75 mm thick. If the mark is not visible thi shim thickness will have to be measured. It is recommended that the shim is measured anyway to check that it has not worn (sei

illustration).

14 Using the appropriate shim selectioi chart, find where the measured valvi clearance and existing shim thickness values intersect and read off the shim sizi required (see illustrations). Note: If tht

of the

it out of the top of the

grease

replaced with

2).

There

valve

on it

(the shim

one of a

is no

question,

will

thick-

need

then

valve

stick

27.12a Lift out the follower .,

27.12b ... and remove the shim from inside the follower

.*.•:•"'-••• -..

27.13 Measure the shim using a micrometer

%» f ...

—4|

INTAKE

MEASURED CLEARANCE

0.00 - 0.02

0.03 - 0.07

0.08-0

0.11 -0.20

0.21 - 0.22

0,33

~O7

0.28 - 0.32

0.33 - 0.37

0.38-0.42

0.43 - 0.47

0.48-0.52

0.53 - 0.57

0.58 - 0.62

0.63 - 0.67

0.68-0.72

0.73 - 0.77

0.78 - 0.82

0.83 - 0.87

0.88 - 0.92

0.93 - 0.97

0.98- 1.02

1.03-

1-07

1.08- 1.12

1.13- 1.17

1.18- 1.22

1.23- 1.27

1.28- 1.32

1.33- 1.37

Every 28,000 miles (42,000 km) or 42 months 1-25

INSTALLED PAD NUMBER

160

165

170(175

160

165|170

165

170(175

175

180

185

190

195

200

205

210

215

220

225

230

235

240

EXAMPLE:

180

185 190 195 200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235

240

145

I5O

155 160 165

150

155

160

RECOMMENDED CLEARANCE

165

170

175

180

185

190

195

200

205

210

215 220

215

225

220 225

230

235

240

VALVE CLEARANCE (cold):

0.11 ~ 0.20 mm (0.004 ~ 0.008 in) Installed is 148 (Rounded off number is 150) Measured clearance is 0.24 mm (0.009 in) Replace 148 pad with 160 pad

185 170 175 180

190

195 200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240

190 175 180 185

195

200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240

195 180 185 190

200

205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240

200 185 190 195

205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240

205 190

195

200

210 215 220 225 230 235 240

2101215

^00

T9T

200

205

210

215

220

225

230

235

240

220 205 210 215

225 230 235 240

225 23C 210 21E 215 22C 220 22E

230 23E

235 24C

240

235 240 220 225 225 230 230 235

240)

.10

120

125

120

125

130

135

140

145

150

155

160

165

170

175

180

185

190

195

200

205

210

215

220

225

230

235

240

130

120 125

135

140

145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180

185 190 195 200

205 210

215 220 225 230 235 240

135

120

125 130

140 145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180 185 190 195 200 205 210 215

220 225 230 235 240

140

1l>b

130 135

145

150

155 160

165

170 175 180 185 190 195 200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240

145 130 135 140

150

155

160 165

170

175 180 185

190 195 200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240

150

135

140

145

155

160

165 170

175 180 185 190

195 200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240

155 140 145 150

160 165

170 175

180 185 190

195 200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240

EXHAUST

MEASURED

CLEARANCE

0.00 - 0.02

0.03 - 0.07

0.08-0.12

0.13-0.17

0.18-0.20

0.21 - 0.30

0.31 - 0.32

0.33 - 0.37

0.38 - 0.42

0.43 - 0.47

0.48-0.52

0.53 - 0.57

0.58 - 0.62

0.63 - 0.67

0.68 - 0.72

0.73 - 0.77

0.78 - 0.82

0.83 - 0.87

0.88 - 0.92

0.93 - 0.97

0.98- 1.02

1.03- 1.07

1.08- 1.12

1.13- 1.17

1.18- 1.22

1.23- 1.27

1.28 - 1.32

1.33- 1.37

1.38- 1.42

1.43- 1.47

120

125 130 135 140 145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180 185 190

195 200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235

240

125

120

1301135

«35

140

145 150 155 160 165

170 175 180 185 190 195

200

205

210 210 215 220 225

230 230

235 235 240

130

120 125

140

145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180 185 190 195

215 220 225

240

27.14a Shim selection chart - intake camshaft

135

120 125

130

140 145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180 185 190 195

200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240

140

120 125 130 135

145 150 155 160

165 170 175 180 185

190 195 200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240

145 120 125 130 135 140

150 155

160 165 170 175 180 185

190 195 200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240

150 lib 130 135 140

145

155 160 165 170 175 180 185 190 195

200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240

155

130

135

140 145 150

160 165

170

175 180 185 190 195 200

205

210 215 220

225 230 235

240

INSTALLED PAD NUMBER

160

165ll70!W8j180 140|145;l58j155

13b 140

145

150

145 150 155

165

170 175 180 185 190 195 200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235

240

tSS>160

150 155 160

RECOMMENDED CLEARANCE

170 175 180 185 190 195

200 205

210

215

220

225

230

235

240

155

160®.

165

175 180 185 190 195

lip'

180

res

190 195 200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240

165 170 175

185 190 195

200 205 210 215 220

225 230 235 240

EXAMPLE: VALVE CLEARANCE (cold):

0.21 ~ 0.30 mm (0.008 ~ 0.012 in) Installed is 175 Measured clearance is 0.35 mm (0.014 in)

Replace 175 pad with 185 pad

185

190

1t>0

165

170

175

180

185 190

J90[195

195

200

205

210

215

220

225

230

235

240

1951200 170J175

175

180

185

190

185

195

200

205

210

215

220

225

230

235

240

205

1tJO

185 190 195

200

210 215 220 225 230 235 240

210 1Bb 190

195

200

205

215

220 225 230 235 240

215 190 195

200 205

210

220 225 230 235 240

220

200 205 210 215

225 230 235 240

225 230 200 205

205 210

210 215

215 220

220 225

2301235

235 240

240]

235 240 210 215 215 220 220 225 225 230 230 235

240

27.14b Shim selection chart - exhaust camshaft

.26 Every 28,000 miles (42,000 km) or 42 months

27.15a Fit the shim into the recess in the top of the valve ...

existing shim is marked with a number not ending in 0 or 5, round it up or down as appropriate to the nearest number ending in 0 or 5 so that the chart can be used. Shims

are available in 0.05 mm increments from

1.20 mm to 2.40 mm. Note: If the required

replacement shim is greater than 2.40 mm

(the largest available), the valve is probably not seating correctly due to a build-up of carbon deposits and should be checked and cleaned or resurfaced as required (see

Chapter 2).

15 Obtain the replacement shim, then

lubricate it with molybdenum disulphide

grease and fit it into its recess in the top of the

valve, with the size marking on each shim facing up (see illustration).Check that the

shim is correctly seated, then lubricate the follower with molybdenum disulphide oil (a

50/50 mixture of molybdenum disulphide

grease and engine oil) and install it onto the

valve (see illustration). Repeat the process

for any other valves until the clearances are correct, then install the camshafts (see Chapter 2). 16 Rotate the crankshaft several turns to seat the new shim(s), then check the clearances again.

clearances are next adjusted; provided they are not worn of damaged, the shims can be moved to other locations.

17 Install all disturbed components in a

reverse of the removal sequence. Tighten the alternator cover bolts to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter, not forgetting the dowels if removed (see illustration), and the hose guard on FZS models (see illustration 27.4b).

Every four years

28 Brake hoses-

replacement

1 The hoses will in time deteriorate with age

and should be replaced every four years regardless of their apparent condition. 2 Refer to Chapter 7 and disconnect the

brake hoses from the master cylinders and calipers. Always replace the banjo union sealing washers with new ones.

27.15b ... then install the follower

It is worthwhile noting down all the valve shim thicknesses to save time and expense when the valve

27.17 Make sure the dowels (arrowed) are in place when installing the cover

Non-scheduled maintenance

29 Headlight aim - ^

check and adjustment

Note: An improperly adjusted headlight may cause problems for oncoming traffic or

provide poor, unsafe illumination of the road

ahead. Before adjusting the headlight aim, be

sure to consult with local traffic laws and regulations - for UK models refer to MOT Test

Checks in the Reference section.

1 The headlight beam can adjusted both horizontally and vertically. Before making any adjustment, check that the tyre pressures are correct and the suspension is adjusted as required. Make any adjustments to the headlight aim with the machine on level

ground, with the fuel tank half full and with assistant sitting on the seat. If the bike usually ridden with a passenger on the bai have a second assistant to do this. 2 On YZF models, vertical adjustment made by turning the adjuster screw on 1 bottom left corner of the headlight unit (s illustration). Turn it clockwise to lower' beam, and anti-clockwise to raise

Non-scheduled maintenance

1-2?

29.2 Vertical adjuster (A), horizontal adjuster (B) -

Horizontal adjustment is made by turning the adjuster screw on the top right corner of the headlight unit. Turn it clockwise to move the beam to the right, and anti-clockwise to move it to the left. 3 On FZS models, vertical adjustment is made by turning the adjuster screw on the bottom inner corner of each headlight unit (see illustration). Turn it anti-clockwise to raise the beam, and clockwise to lower it. Horizontal adjustment is made by turning the adjuster screw on the top outer corner of each headlight unit. For the left-hand beam, turn it clockwise to move the beam to the left, and anti-clockwise to move it to the right. For the right-hand beam, turn it clockwise to move the beam to the right, and anti-clockwise to move it to the left.

YZF models

30 Cylinder compression -

check

1 Among other things, poor engine performance may be caused by leaking valves, incorrect valve clearances, a leaking head gasket, or worn pistons, rings and/or cylinder walls. A cylinder compression check will help pinpoint these conditions and can also indicate the presence of excessive carbon deposits in the cylinder heads. 2 The only tools required are a compression gauge and a spark plug wrench. A compression gauge with a threaded end for the spark plug hole is preferable to the type which requires hand pressure to maintain a tight seal.

Depending test, a squirt-type oil can may also be needed. 3 Make sure the valve clearances are correctly set (see Section 27) and that the cylinder head nuts are tightened to the correct torque setting (see Chapter 2). 4 Refer to Fault Finding Equipment in the Reference section for details of the compression test. Refer to the specifications at

on the

outcome

of the

initial

29.3 Vertical adjusters (A), horizontal adjusters (B) •

the beginning of the Chapter for compression figures.

31 Engine oil pressure -

check <K

1 None of the models covered in this manual are fitted with an oil pressure switch and warning light, only an oil level sensor and light (see Chapter 9 for further information). If a lubrication problem is suspected, first check the oil level (see Daily (pre-ride) checks). 2 If the oil level is correct, an oil pressure check must be carried out. The check provides useful information about the condition of the engine's lubrication system. 3 To check the oil pressure, a suitable gauge and adapter piece (which screws into the crankcase) will be needed. Yamaha provide a kit (part nos. 90890-03153 and 90890-03139) for this purpose. 4 Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature then stop it. 5 Place a suitable container below the main oil gallery plug, which is below the starter clutch cover on the right-hand side of the engine, to catch any oil (see illustration). Unscrew the plug and swiftly screw the adapter into the crankcase threads. Connect the gauge to the adapter. If oil is lost, replenish it to the correct level before

proceeding (see Daily (pre-ride) checks). 6 Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 10,000 rpm whilst watching the gauge reading. The oil pressure should be similar to that given in the Specifications at the start of this Chapter. 7 Stop the engine and unscrew the gauge and adapter from the crankcase. 8 Install the main oil gallery plug using a new sealing washer, and tighten it to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the

Chapter. Check the oil level (see Daily (pre-

ride) checks).

FZS models

9 If the pressure is significantly lower than the

standard, either the pressure regulator is

stuck open, the oil pump is faulty, the oil strainer or filter is blocked, or there is other engine damage. Begin diagnosis by checking the oil filter, strainer and regulator, then the oil

pump (see Chapter 2). If those items check

out okay, chances are the bearing oil

clearances are excessive and the engine

needs to be overhauled.

10 If the pressure is too high, either an oil

passage is clogged, the regulator is stuck

closed or the wrong grade of oil is being used.

11 Refer to Chapter 2 and rectify any

problems before running the engine again.

12 If the oil pressure and oil level are both

good, then the oil level sensor or its warning

light may be faulty. Check them and the

circuit and replace with a new one if

necessary (see Chapter 9).

32 Fuel hoses -

replacement

Warning: Petrol (gasoline) is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work

on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs

31.5 Main oil gallery plug (arrowed)

+ 189 hidden pages