References to Service Bulletins .......................... 56
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Safety Information
Introduction
The Workshop Manual contains technical data, descriptions, and repair instructions for the designated
Volvo Penta products or product versions. Make sure
that the correct workshop literature is used.
Read the following safety information and the
“General Information” and “Repair Instructions”
in the Workshop Manual carefully before starting
service work.
Important
A careless movement or dropped tool while
working in the vicinity of an engine that is running, can in the worst case lead to injury. Observe caution on hot surfaces (exhaust pipe, turbo, charge air pipe, starter element etc.) and hot
fluids in the lines and hoses of an engine that is
running, or has just been started. Refit all
guards dismantled during service work before
starting the engine.
Make sure that the warning or information decals on the product are always clearly visible.
Replace labels that have been damaged or
painted over.
Never start the engine unless the air filter is fitted. The rotating compressor wheel in the turbo
can cause severe injury. Foreign objects in the
inlet pipe can also damage the machine.
Never use starter spray or the like. Explosion
risk in the inlet pipe. Risk of personal injury.
The following special warning symbols are used in the
Workshop Manual and on the product.
WARNING! Warns of risk of bodily injury, serious damage to product or property, or that a serious malfunction can occur if the instructions
are not followed.
IMPORTANT! Used to attract attention to things
that can cause damage or malfunction to product or property.
NOTE! Used to attract attention to important information, to simplify work procedures or handling.
The following list provides an overview of the risks
and cautionary procedures that should always be observed.
Prevent the engine from being started by disconnecting the power with the main switch
(switches) and locking it (them) in disconnected
mode before the service work is begun. Attach a
warning sign in the cabin.
As a rule, all service work should be performed
on an idle engine. Some work, e.g. certain adjustments, require the engine to be running. Approaching an engine that is running is a safety
risk. Remember that loose clothes or long hair
can fasten in rotating parts and cause severe
injury.
Avoid opening the coolant filler cap when the engine is hot. Steam or hot coolant can spray out,
and built up pressure will be lost. Open the filler
cap slowly and release the overpressure in the
cooling system if the filler cap or cock must be
opened, or if a plug or coolant pipe must be removed when the engine is hot. Steam or hot
coolant can flow out in an unpredicted direction.
Hot oil can cause burn injuries. Avoid skin contact with hot oil. Make sure that the oil system
is not pressurised before working on it. Never
start, or run the engine with the oil filler cap removed in view of the risk of ejecting oil.
Stop the engine and close the bottom valve before working on the cooling system.
Only start the engine in a well-ventilated area.
Exhaust fumes and crankcase gases should be
led out of the engine compartment or workshop
when working in closed environments.
Always use protective glasses for work where
there is a risk of splintering, sparks, or splashing of acid or other chemicals. The eyes are extremely sensitive, and an injury can cause blindness!
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General Information
Avoid skin contact with oil! Prolonged or frequent skin contact with oil can degrease the
skin, resulting in irritation, drying out, eczema,
and other skin complaints. Used oil is more dangerous than new oil from the health care point of
view. Use protective gloves and avoid oil
drenched clothes and rags. Wash your hands
regularly, especially before meals. Use special
hand cream to counteract drying out, and to
simplify cleaning the skin.
The majority of chemicals intended for the product (e.g. engine and timing gear oils, glycol, petrol and diesel oil) or chemicals for workshop use
(e.g. degreasing agent, enamels and solvents)
are hazardous to health. Read the instruction on
the pack carefully. Always follow the given safety instructions (e.g. the use of breathing protection, protective glasses, or gloves, etc.) Make
sure that other personnel are not exposed to
hazardous substances, e.g. by inhaling the air.
Make sure there is adequate ventilation. Handle
consumed and surplus chemicals in the prescribed manner.
Batteries must never be exposed to naked
flames or electrical sparks. Never smoke in the
vicinity of batteries. Hydrogen develops when
batteries are charged, which in combination with
air forms an explosive gas. This gas is highly
inflammable and very explosive. One spark from
connecting the batteries incorrectly is sufficient
to cause the battery to explode and cause injury. Do not touch the connection when starting
(risk of spark) and do not lean over the batteries.
Never confuse the plus and minus terminals
when fitting the batteries. This can cause serious damage to the electrical equipment. Check
the wiring diagram.
Always use protective glasses when charging
and handling batteries. The battery electrolyte
contains strongly corrosive sulphuric acid. On
skin contact, wash with soap and plenty of water. If battery acid gets into the eyes, rinse immediately with water, and contact a doctor without delay.
Observe extreme caution when tracing fuel
leaks in fuel systems and when testing fuel nozzles. Wear protective glasses. The jet from a
fuel nozzle has a very high pressure and penetrating force. The fuel can penetrate deeply into
bodily tissue and cause serious injury. Risk of
blood poisoning.
All fuels, in similarity with chemicals, are inflammable. Make sure that naked flames, or sparks,
cannot lead to ignition. Petrol, certain thinners,
and hydrogen from batteries, are extremely inflammable and explosive when mixed with air.
Smoking is prohibited! Ventilate well and take
the necessary precautions before conducting
welding or grinding work in the immediate vicinity. Always have a fire extinguisher handy in the
workshop.
Make sure that rags drenched in oil and petrol,
including old fuel and lubricant filters, are stored
safety. Oil drenched rags can in certain conditions self-ignite. Old fuel and oil filters are environmentally hazardous waste, and together with
spent lubricant, contaminated fuel, paint residue, solvent, degreasing agent and suds, should
be handed in to a waste handling unit for destruction.
Stop the engine and switch off the power with
the main switch (switches) before working on
the electrical system.
Adjustment of the clutch should be conducted
when the engine is idle.
Use the lifting hooks mounted on the engine/reverse gear when lifting the drive unit. Always
check that the lifting equipment is in good condition and has the correct capacity for the lift
(weight of engine plus reverse gear and extra
equipment where appropriate).
For safe handling, and to avoid damaging the
components mounted on top of the engine, the
engine should always be lifted with a lifting bar
adjusted to the engine. All chains or wires
should run in parallel with each other and as perpendicular to the top of the engine as possible.
Special lifting equipment may be required to ensure the right balance and safe handling if other
equipment connected to the engine alters its
centre of gravity.
Never carry out work on an engine only supported by lifting equipment.
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General Information
Never work alone when heavy components are
to be dismantled, even when safe lifting (e.g.
lockable block and tackle) equipment is used. In
most cases, two persons are required even
when lifting equipment is used: one to handle
the equipment and one to make sure that components are not damaged. When working onboard a boat always make sure in advance that
there is sufficient space to allow dismantling in
situ, without the risk of personal injury or damage to materials.
WARNING! The components in the electrical
system and in the fuel system on Volvo Penta
products are designed and manufactured to minimise the risks of explosion and fire. The engine
must not be run in environments surrounded by
explosive media.
When cleaning with high-pressure wash, observe the following: Never point the jet of water
at seals, rubber hoses, or electrical components. Never use the high-pressure function
when washing the engine.
NOTE! Pressure pipes must not bent, turned, or
exposed to other strain. Replace damaged pressure pipes.
Always use Volvo Penta recommended fuel.
See the instruction handbook. The use of inferior quality fuel can damage the engine. The use
of inferior fuel in a diesel engine can cause the
control rod to jam and the engine to overspeed,
with the risk of personal injury or damage to the
machine. Inferior fuel can also lead to higher
maintenance costs.
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General Information
About the Workshop Manual
This Workshop Manual contains technical information,
descriptions, and repair instructions for the standard
versions of the engine units TMD102A, TAMD102A/D,
TAMD103A, TMD122A, TAMD122A/C/D,
TAMD122P-A/P-B/P-C.
The Workshop Manual may show work procedures
conducted on an optional engine according to the
above list. This implies that the illustrations and
diagrams that present certain parts, may in some
cases not agree with the other engines. The repair
methods remain essentially the same, however.
Wherever there is a difference, this is clearly indicated
and important differences are reported separately. The
engine designation and number are given on the
number plate. The motor designation and number
should always be given during all correspondence.
The Workshop Manual is primarily produced for Volvo
Penta service workshops and their qualified personnel. It is therefore assumed that persons using this
manual have a basic knowledge of marine drive
systems, and can perform the relevant work of a
mechanical and electrical nature. Volvo Penta continuously develops its products, and therefore reserves
the right to introduce modifications. All the information
in this manual is based on product data available prior
to publication. Any amendments or service methods
of essential importance that have been introduced for
the product after this date are confirmed in the form of
Service Bulletins.
Certified engines
Important information concerning engines certified for Lake Constance and Switzerland.
All engines and products from Volvo Penta are developed on the basis that they will have as little impact
on the environment as possible.
Nevertheless national and regional environmental
legislation is not the same on all the markets Volvo
Penta sells its products. Occasionally such legislation
implies that special engine versions have to be built,
or that the engine must be approved in advance –
certified – by the authorities.
The certification of an engine implies that Volvo Penta
guarantees that all manufactured engines correspond
with the certified example of the engine approved.
Certification not only implies requirements concerning
engines new from the factory, but also that engines in
operation will continue to comply with the set environmental requirements. For Volvo Penta to assume
responsibility for engines in operation it is necessary
to comply with certain requirements concerning
service and spare parts. This is not to suggest that
you should not carry out your own service work, on
the contrary this often leads to the rapid discovery of
abnormalities.
However, certain service procedures require special
knowledge, workshop literature, special tools, and
other special equipment. These service procedures
may only be conducted by an authorised Volvo Penta
Service Workshop. Always contact your Volvo Penta
dealer if you are unsure about anything concerning the
function or maintenance of your engine.
As the owner of a certified engine from Volvo Penta,
or a person working on the engine, it is important to be
familiar with the following:
Spare parts
Spare parts for the electrical and fuel systems are
subject to different national safety requirements, e.g.
U.S. Coast Guard Safety Regulations. Volvo Penta
Genuine Spare Parts comply with these requirements.
All types of damage resulting from the use of non
genuine Volvo Penta spare parts for the product in
question will not be regulated by the warranty undertakings of Volvo Penta.
l The service intervals and maintenance procedures
recommended by Volvo Penta must be followed.
l Only Volvo Penta Genuine Spare Parts intended for
the certified engine version must be used.
l Service of injection pumps, pump settings, and
injectors, shall always be conducted by an authorised Volvo Penta workshop.
l The engine must not be rebuilt or modified in any
way, with the exception of the accessories and
service kits that Volvo Penta has developed for the
engine.
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General Information
l Installation adjustments on exhaust pipes and
supply air channels for the engine compartment
(ventilation channels) must not, without due care,
be conducted since this can influence exhaust
emissions.
l Seals must not be broken by unauthorised person-
nel.
IMPORTANT! Use only Volvo Penta Genuine
Spare Parts.
The use of non genuine parts implies that AB
Volvo Penta will no longer assume responsibility for compliance of the engine with the
certified versions. All types of damage or
costs resulting from the use of non genuine Volvo Penta spare parts for the product in question
will not be regulated by Volvo Penta.
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Repair Instructions
The work methods described in the Workshop Manual
are applicable for a workshop environment. The engine has therefore been lifted out of the boat and
mounted on an engine block. Renovation work that
does not require the engine to be lifted out is conducted in situ with the same work methods unless otherwise stated.
The warning symbols used in the Workshop Manual
(see Safety Information for implication),
WARNING!
IMPORTANT!
NOTE!
by no means cover everything since the service work
is conducted under a wide range of different conditions, and it is obviously impossible to foresee everything. All that can be done is to point out the risks that
can occur from incorrect handling when working in a
well-equipped workshop with work methods and tools
approved by Volvo Penta.
Where Volvo Penta special tools can be used for work
procedures, these are described in the Workshop
Manual. The object of special tools is to ensure the
safest and most rational work method possible. If other tools or work methods are used than those recommended by Volvo Penta, then it is incumbent on the
person using them to ensure that there is no risk of
personal injury, damage, or malfunction.
In some cases, there are special directions and user
instructions for the tools and chemicals named in the
Workshop Manual. These directions should always be
followed even if there is no special mention of them in
the Workshop Manual.
Most risks can be prevented by means of taking elementary precautions and using common sense. A
clean workplace and a clean engine eliminate many
risks of both personal injury and malfunction.
Above all when working with the fuel system, lubrication system, intake system, turbo, bearing unions and
sealing unions, it is extremely important to prevent dirt
or foreign objects from getting in, since this can result
in malfunction or reduce the life span of the repair.
Our joint responsibility
Every engine consists of a large number of co-ordinated systems and components. The deviation of one
component from the technical specification can dramatically increase the impact on the environment from
what is otherwise a good engine. It is therefore extremely important to maintain the given tolerances, to
implement the correct adjustments where applicable,
and to use Volvo Penta Genuine Parts. The time
schedule in the engine’s maintenance schedule must
be followed.
Certain systems, e.g. components in the fuel system,
may require special competence and special testing
equipment. For environmental reasons certain components are sealed at the factory and must not be
worked on by unauthorised persons.
Remember that most chemical products when incorrectly used can be damaging to the environment. Volvo Penta recommends the used of biologically decomposing degreasing agents for all cleaning of engine
components, unless otherwise stated in the Workshop
Manual. When working onboard boats special care
must be observed to prevent oils and suds etc. unintentionally ending up the nature, e.g. via the bilge water.
Tightening torques
Tightening torque for vital unions, which should be
tightened with a torque multiplier, are indicated in the
Workshop Manual,
ques
and the manual’s work descriptions. All torque
readings are applicable for clean threads, screw heads
and mating surfaces. The torque readings refer to
lightly oiled or dry thread. If lubricants, locking fluids
or sealant are required for screw union, then the type
is indicated in the work description. For unions where
special torque denotations are not indicated, the general tightening torque is applicable according to the table below. The torque readings are guide values, and
unions do not need to be tightened with a torque multiplier.
For angular tightening the screw union is first tightened with a given torque, after which tightening continues at a predetermined angle. Example: for 90° angular torque the union is tightened an addition ¼ turn after the given tightening torque has been achieved.
Lock nuts
Dismantled lock nuts should not be reused but replaced with new ones, since the locking properties become inferior or non existent after multiple use. For
lock nuts with plastic inserts, e.g. Nylock® , the tightening torque indicated in the table should be reduced
if the Nylock® nut has the same nut height as a
standard solid metal hex nut. The tightening torque is
reduced by 25 % for screw sizes of 8 mm or more.
For Nylock® nuts with higher nut size, where the solid
metal thread is the same height as a standard hex
nut, the tightening torque as per the table is applicable.
Strength classes
Screws and nuts are divided into different strength
classes. Their classification is indicated on the screw
head. A high number on the marking represents a
stronger material, e.g. a screw marked 10-9 is stronger than a screw marked 8-8. It is therefore important
when a screw union is dismantled to return the screws
to their original positions. See the spare parts catalogue when replacing screws to ensure that the correct version is used.
Sealant
A number of different types of sealant and locking fluids are used on the engine. The sealant has different
properties for different union strengths, temperature
ranges, resistance to oil and chemicals, and for the
different materials and slot sizes in the engine.
It is therefore important to use the correct type of
sealant and locking fluid for those unions that require
them, in order to ensure satisfactory service work.
The Workshop Manual indicates in the relevant chapters the compounds used when the engines were
manufactured.
The same compound, or a compound with equivalent
properties but of other manufacture, should be used
during the service work.
When using sealant and locking fluids it is important
that the surfaces are free from oil, grease, paint and
anti-rust agent, and that they are dry.
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions concerning application temperature and hardening times
etc. for the product.
Two basic types of sealant are used on the engine,
characterised by:
RTV compound (Room Temperature Vulcanising). Often used together with gaskets, e.g. sealing of gasket
joints or applied on gaskets. RTV compound is clearly
visible when the part has been dismantled, and old
RTV compound must be removed before the union is
sealed again.
The following RTV compounds are mentioned in the
Workshop Manual:
Anaerobic compounds. These compounds harden on
the absence of air. The compound is used when two
solid parts, e.g. cast components, are fitted together
without a gasket. A common application is also to secure and seal plugs, thread on studs, cocks, and oil
pressure sensors etc. Hardened anaerobic compound
is transparent and therefore the compounds are dyed
to make them visible. Hardened anaerobic compounds
are very resistant to solvents and old compound cannot be removed. Before refitting they are carefully degreased, after which new sealant is applied.
The following anaerobic compounds are mentioned in
the Workshop Manual: Loctite® 572 (white coloured)
and Loctite® 241 (blue).
NOTE! Loctite® is a registered trademark for Loctite Corporation. Permatex® is a registered trademark for Permatex Corporation.
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Safety instructions for
fluororubber
General Information
Fluororubber is a common material used in sealing
rings for shafts and O-rings.
Hydrofluoric acid is formed when fluororubber is exposed to high temperatures (over 300°C/572°F), and
is strongly corrosive. Contact with the skin, eyes, or
respiratory passages, can lead to severe injury.
WARNING! Observe extreme caution when
working on engines that may have been exposed to high temperatures, e.g. overheating
during seizing or fire. Seals must never be
burned off during dismantling, or burned up in
uncontrolled circumstances.
lAlways use chloroprene gloves (for handling
chemicals) and protective glasses.
lHandle the removed seal in the same way a cor-
rosive acid. All residue, including ash, can be
strongly corrosive. Never use compressed air to
blow clean.
lPlace the remains in a sealed plastic container
with warning label. Wash gloves under running
water before taking off.
The following seals are in all probability manufactured
of fluororubber.
Sealing rings for crankshaft, camshaft, and intermediate shafts.
O-rings, irrespective of position. O-rings for cylinder
lining seals are almost always made of fluororubber.
Note that seals that have not been exposed to high
temperatures can be handled normally.
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Special tools
In all cases where it has been practically possible tools have been punched with their tool number, excluding the
last digit. The last digit (after the hyphen) is a check number.
885341
99910849992000999180199920139992089
885126-3Piston ring compressor
885341-8Tool for removing rear crankshaft seal.
Used together with 6400
9988539-4Compression tester
9989876-9Dial indicator
9812546-1Brush for cleaning of bottom of copper
sleeve and sealing surface between
copper sleeve and cylinder head
1158959-5Torque multiplier, ratio 1:4
1158959998853998125469989876885126
9992955
999-
1084-6Drift for removing valve guide
1801-3Standard handle 18 x 200 mm
(0.7087 x 7.9740")
2000-1Standard handle 25 x 200 mm
(0.9843 x 7.8740")
2013-4Drift for removing and fitting of
piston journal, used together with
1801
2089-4,Extractor plate for cylinder liner, 102/3
2955-6and 122 series, used together with
6645
2124-9Expander plug (2 pcs) for pressure
testing of cylinder head
9992124
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Special tools
9992267
99926599992666
9992479
9992529999295299926559992656
9998043999267799960659992953
999-
2267-6Drift for removing and fitting of ball
bearings in pulley, coolant pump.
Fitting drift for bearings, injection
pump drive device. Counterforce
when pressing out rocker arm bushing.
2479-7Holder for dial indicator when
checking height of liner collar above
the block plane.
2529-9,Drift for removing and fitting of
2952-3connecting rod bushing, 102/3 and 122
series
2655-2Extractor for polygon hub on crankshaft
2656-0Fitting tool for polygon hub on crankshaft
2658-6Extractor for crankshaft gear
9992658
999-
2659-4Press tool for fitting of crankshaft gear
2666-9,Tool (min. 2 pcs) for pressing down of
8043-5cylinder liner when measuring height of
liner collar above block plane, 102/3 and
122 series.
2677-6Drift for removing and fitting of rocker
arm bushing
2953-1Drift for fitting of valve guides, 122
series
6065-0Manometer with hose for checking of
fuel’s feed pressure or turbo boost
pressure.* When checking feed pressure
use also banjo nipple 6066.
* NOTE! The same tool should not be used for checking both the
feed pressure and boost pressure.
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Page 14
Special tools
9996088
999666299966689996669999668399966859996772
9996394
9996395999659999966439996645
999-
6088-2Fitting tool for rear crankshaft seal
6394-4Supports (2 pcs) for liner extractor 6645
6395-1Supports (2 pcs) for liner extractor 6645
6400-9Impact hammer
6599-8Plate for pressing in liner
6643-4Extractor for injector
6645-9Extractor for liner, used together with
6394 and 6695
6662-4Pressure testing device for cooling sys
tem
9996400
999-
6668-1Drift for fitting of valve guide (inlet), 102/3
series
6669-9Drift for fitting of valve guide (outlet),
102/3 series
6683-0Connection washer for pressure testing
of cylinder head, 122 series
6685-5Clamp for pressure testing of cylinder
head, 102/3 series
6772-1Tool for checking of camshaft lift height
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9996795999807999999039999511
Special tools
999-
6795-2Drift for fitting of front crankshaft seals
8079-9Tool for lifting camshaft in and out
9511-0,Expander for turning cylinder liner,
9903-9102/3 and 122 series
9531-8Milling tool for sealing groove in
cylinder head, 122 series
9551-6Milling tool for renovating liner recess,
102/3 series
9696-9Magnetic stand for dial indicator
9902-1Milling tool for renovating liner recess,
122 series
999969699995319999551
9999902
Spare parts and accessories for special tools
9501-1Milling tool for tool 9531
9532-6Cutting tool with holder for tool 9531
9693-6Card for compression tester 9988539
9904-7Milling tool for tool 9902
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Design and function
The engines are online, six-cylinder, four-stroke marine diesel engines with direct injection. They are fitted with
heat exchangers (alt. connecting parts for keel cooling) for thermostatically controlled fresh water cooling.
The engines are lubricated by a pressure lubricating system, where an oil pump presses oil to all the lubricating
points. On TAMD102A, TAMD102D, TAMD103A and the 122 series, the pistons are oil cooled by means of special nozzles placed in the cylinder block.
All engines have wet replaceable cylinder liners.
The engines are fitted with an exhaust driven turbocharger, which is lubricated and cooled by engine oil. The turbine housing is fresh water cooled to reduce the radiation heat to the engine compartment.
TAMD102A, TAMD102D, TAMD103A and the TAMD122 series are also fitted with a seawater cooled aftercooler
which reduces the temperature of the intake air and increases the engine output. The combustion and exhaust
system temperatures are also lower.
Positioning of rating plates
Identification plate (Decal)
Engine designation
Serial number
Product number
TAMD122P–C
XXXXXXXXXX
ENGINE
Decal
dataset EDC:
TAMD122P-C
RATED POWER: 449 kW
RATED SPEED: 2250 RPM
DATASET: 874138
SPEC. NO: 868 862
ECU BATCH: 9942
868862
TD MG5091 SC–E
XXXXXXXXXX
3590 205
Reverse gear, type
Serial number
Product number
Identification plate:
Engine designationProduct number
No.xxxxxxxxxx / xxxxx
TAMD122P-B,
TAMD122P-C
Certification plate:
EMISSION APPROVED IN ACCORDANCE TO THE
REQUIREMENTS OF SAV.
APPROVAL NO:
TAMD122P-C 868 862
Serial numberBasic engine number
xxxxxxxxxx
Approval No. (Certification)
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Identification plate (Decal)
Design and function
Engine designation
Serial number
Product number
TAMD122P–A
XXXXXXXXXX
868769
ENGINE
TD MG5114SC
XXXXXXXXXX
3905 920
Reverse gear, type
Serial number
Product number
TAMD102/3
Other engines
Certification plate (TAMD122P-A):
EMISSION APPROVED IN ACCORDANCE TO THE
REQUIREMENTS OF SAV.
APPROVAL NO:
Identification plate:
Engine designation Product No.
TAMD122P-A 868769
No.xxxxxxxxxx / xxxxx
Serial numberBasic engine No.
xxxxxxxxxx
Approval No. (Certification)
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Page 18
Design and function
Engine presentation
TMD102A, starboard
1. Distribution box with semi-automatic fuses
2. Air filter
3. Filter for crankcase ventilation
4. Filler, oil
5. Oil cooler
6. Inlet pipe
7. Expansion tank
8. Filler, coolant
9. Vibration damper
10. Seawater pump
11. Oil bilge pump
12. Oil filter
13. Starter motor
14. Reverse gear
15. Oil cooler, reverse gear
TAMD102D, port
1. Heat exchanger
2. Filler, coolant
3. Fuel filter
4. Smoke limiter
5. Aftercooler
6. Filler, oil
7. Filter for crankcase ventilation
8. Air filter
9. Water cooled exhaust elbow
10. Turbocharger
11. Reverse gear
12. Stop solenoid
13. Governor
14. Dipstick
15. Injection pump
16. Feed pump
17. Alternator
TAMD102A, starboard
1. Air filter
2. Distribution box with semi-automatic fuses
3. Aftercooler
4. Scavening pump
5. Heat exchanger
6. Filler, coolant
7. Extra alternator
8. Alternator
9. Vibration damper
10. Extra drive output
11. Bilge pump
12. Oil bilge pump
13. Oil filter
14. Starter motor
15. Reverse gear
16. Oil cooler, reverse gear
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TMD122A, port
1. Heat exchanger
2. Filler, coolant
3. Fuel filter
4. Smoke limiter
5. Injection pump
6. Stop solenoid
7. Filler, oil
8. Filter for crankcase ventilation
9. Air filter
10. Exhaust elbow
11. Turbocharger
12. Reverse gear
13. Fresh water filter
14. Dipstick
15. Inspection panel
16. Feed pump
17. Alternator
18. P.T.O. for hydraulic pump
Design and function
TAMD122P-A, port
1. Heat exchanger
2. Filler, coolant
3. Fuel filter
4. Smoke limiter
5. After cooler
6. Filler, oil
7. Filter for crankcase ventilation
8. Air filter
9. Water cooled exhaust elbow
10. Turbocharger
11. Reverse gear
12. Shut-off valve, fuel
13. Governor
14. Dipstick
15. Injection pump
16. Feed pump
17. Alternator
18. Inspection panel, coolant
TAMD122A, starboard
1. Air filter
2. Filter for crankcase ventilation
3. Filler, oil
4. Aftercooler
5. Oil cooler
6. Inlet pipe
7. Filler, coolant
8. Heat exchanger
9. Vibration damper
10. Seawater pump
11. Pipe for bilging of oil pan
12. Oil filter
13. Starter motor
14. Distribution box with semi-automatic fuses
15. Reverse gear
16. Oil cooler, reverse gear
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Design and function
TAMD122P-A, starboard
1. Air filter
2. Filter for crankcase ventilation
3. Aftercooler
4. Oil cooler
5. Induction pipe
6. Filler, coolant
7. Inspection panel, coolant
8. Heat exchanger
9. Vibration damper
10. Seawater pump
11. Oil filter
12. Starter motor
13. Distribution box with semi-automatic fuses
14. Reverse gear
15. Oil cooler, reverse gear
123 456789
16111514 13121110
1234 5678
TAMD122P-B, TAMD122P-C, starboard
1. Oil cooler, reverse gear
2. Air filter
3. Filter for crankcase ventilation
4. After cooler
5. Oil cooler, engine
6. Oil cap
7. Expansion tank
8. Level glass, coolant
9. Seawater pump
10. Oil filter, engine
11. Alt. pos. of dipstick
12. Starter motor
13. Dipstick, reverse gear (MPM IRM311)
14. Oil filter, reverse gear
TAMD122P-B, TAMD122P-C, port
1. Heat exchanger
2. Inspection panel, coolant
3. Filler, coolant
4. Fine filter for fuel
5. Electronic Diesel Control (EDC) control
module box
6. Injection pump
7. Distribution box with semi-automatic fuses
8. Water cooled exhaust elbow
9. Turbocharger
10. Reverse gear MPM IRM311
11. Flexible engine suspension
12. Oil pan
13. Electric governor
14. Dipstick
15. Manual feed pump
16. Alternator
18
14131211109
Page 21
Description of components
TMD102A
TMD102A is a further development of TMD100C and
was introduced from engine number 1101010220/xxxx.
The most important differences are:
lThe cylinder block is provided with a plane for a
bypass oil filter. The flow of coolant round the cy
linder liners has been improved by the introduction
of a horizontal shelf round the top part of the liner.
The oil channels for the camshaft bearings have
been improved.
lThe base of the cylinder head has been made ap-
prox. 3 mm (0.118") thinner, making it more flexible.
Together with new screws and modified torque this
ensures higher clamping force on the sealing union
to the block.
lThe outlet valve seat has been made thinner and
has a greater grip between seat and cylinder head.
lNew and thicket upper sealing ring for the cylinder
liners, 2.4 mm (0.09"), in new material (EPDM rubber).
lNew 5-hole distributors with hole diameter 0.34 mm
(0.0134").
lA new aluminium oil pan replaces the cast iron pan.
The inspection panels are still made of cast iron.
Design and function
TAMD102A
TAMD102A is a further development of TMD102A.
The most important differences are:
lHigher output.
lAftercooler (same as TAMD122).
lNew cylinder block with piston cooling.
lNew pistons. Upper compression ring of “Keystone”
type (trapezoid shaped).
lModified compression ratio, 15:1.
lNew cylinder head with modified guides for the inlet
valves (for improved air rotation).
lNew valves with greater valve clearance.
lNew oil pump with higher capacity.
lNew oil pan, modified (also used on TMD102).
lNew injection pump, 12 mm (0.47") pump element.
lModified injection angle.
lNew pressure pipes.
lNew turbocharger.
lNew air filter, washable.
lLarger seawater pump – 2" (same as on the 122
series).
lNew vibration damper (same as on the TAMD122
series).
19
Page 22
Design and function
TAMD102D
TAMD102D is a further development of TMD102A.
The most important differences are:
lReinforced engine block.
lNew hardened induction valves.
lUpper compression ring of the Keystone type.
lNew injection pump.
lTurbocharger of the Holset type.
lReinforced timing gears with nitro-carburized
gears.
TMD122A, TAMD122A, TAMD122C
These engines are a further development of the 121
series.
The most important differences are:
lThe cylinder head has been provided with
grooves for a flame edge. The new head has the
same version of grooves as previously.
lThe cylinder liners have a flame edge. New thick-
er upper sealing ring, 2.4 mm (0.09"), in new material (EPDM rubber).
lThe gudgeon pins have been made stronger in
that the inner diameter has been reduced by 2
mm (0.079").
lNew injection pump.
lA smoke limiter has been introduced, placed on
the front part of the injection pump.
lNew vibration damper (not on TMD122).
lNew 5-hole distributors, only on TAMD122A.
lNew turbocharger (only on TAMD122C).
TAMD122D
TAMD122D is a further development of TAMD122C.
The most important differences are:
lHigher output for Pleasure duty (PD).
lNew pistons, compression ratio 14.0:1 (previously
14.2:1)
lThe upper piston ring is of the Keystone type.
lAluminium flywheel casing.
lThe cover on the expansion tank is somewhat
lower than previously.
lShorter oil filter.
lReverse gear of MPM manufacture (IRM310A) is
available as an alternative.
20
Page 23
TAMD122P-A
Design and function
TAMD122P-A is a further development of TAMD122D.
The most important differences are:
lHigher output.
lNew connecting rods with trapezium shaped
gudgeon pin end.
lNew pistons.
lNew piston rings (upper piston ring of Keystone
type, (trapezium shaped)).
lNew cylinder liners.
lNew inlet valves, Nimonic.
lGreater valve clearance. Inlet: 0.50 mm (0.02") –
outlet: 0.80 mm (0.03").
lNew injection pump with modified setting.
lDouble action feed pump with higher capacity.
lNew 5-hole distributors with higher opening pres-
sure.
lPre-tensioned pressure pipe.
lNew larger turbocharger with fresh water cooled
turbine housing (Schwitzer S4DW).
lReinforced exhaust elbow.
lNew heat exchanger package (4-circuit heat ex-
changer with copper/nickel alloy pipes).
lNew pressure cover on the expansion tank.
lSeawater pump with higher capacity.
lCoolant pipes in copper/nickel alloy.
lNew aftercooler with higher capacity.
lNew more efficient air filter with replaceable paper
insert.
lA solenoid valve replaces the stop solenoid (the
valve reverses the feed pump function on stop).
lRubber suspended distribution box.
lTransducer and sensor for the engine’s oil pres-
sure are mounted separately with rubber suspension.
lReinforced insulation of engine cabling (corrugat-
ed plastic hose in PA66) with damp proof connections.
lHarder rubber pads (70 shore).
21
Page 24
Design and function
TAMD122P-B (“TAMD122P EDC”)
These engines are a further development of
TAMD122P-A.
The most important differences are:
lNew injection pump provided with electronic gov-
ernor. The governor includes an electromagnet
that activates the injection pump’s control rod and
thereby the injected fuel volume (engine output).
lAn electronics box (EDC) has been introduced,
placed in connection with the rear fuel filter.
lThe fuel shut-off valve has been discontinued
(the engine is stopped via the EDC system).
lNew alternator with Zener diodes, 24V/60A.
lHigher output.
lNew pistons with improved piston cooling (recess
cooled).
lNew upper compression ring (modified piston ring
gap).
lNew piston cooling nozzles (adjusted for recess
cooled piston).
lNew piston cooling valve with low opening pres-
sure.*
lNew reducing valve with higher opening pres-
sure.*
lNew injection pump with modified setting:
– setting: 16° ±0.5° B.T.D.C.
– stroke position, on inspection: 4.45 (± 0.10) mm
(0.18 (±0.004)")
on adjustment: 4.45 (±0.05) mm
(0.18 (±0.002)")
lNew type of feed pump.
lNew injectors with modified nozzle position:
– nozzle retainer, type KBEL 117 P 163
– nozzle, DLLA 150 P 550
– complete injector, marked 567
– opening pressure, 27.5 MPa (3989 lbf/in2) (280
kp/cm2)
– adjustment pressure (new spring), 28.0 (+0.8)
MPa (4061 (+116) lbf/in2) (286 (+8) kp/cm2)
– hole diameter, 5 pcs 0.412 mm (0.016")
* Note: These valves have also been introduced on engine
TAMD122P-A (previously delivered engines have also been
updated).
lDouble filters for crankcase ventilation.
lNew aftercooler with higher capacity (2-circuit in-
sert with greater number of disks).
lThe distribution box has been moved to the left-
hand side of the engine.
lThe engine has been provided with a cover
placed over the exhaust elbow.
TAMD122P-C (“TAMD122P EDC”)
These engines are a further development of
TAMD122P-B.
The most important differences are:
lUpdated EDC system (new EDC control module
box and new software)
lFuse (7.5 A) added for the EDC-system
lNew EDC-cabling with damp proof connections
(2 x 8-pin)
22
Page 25
Repairs
Cylinder head, removing
Special tools: 9996643, 102/3: 9992666 (at least 2)
122: 9998043 (at least 2)
1.Close the bottom valve. Drain off the engine’s
coolant.
2.Close the fuel cocks.
3.Remove the leads at the batteries.
4.TAMD102/3, TAMD122: Remove the connecting
pipes (water/air) to the aftercooler. Release the
cables for the boost pressure sensor if there is
one. Remove the aftercooler.
5.Remove the air filter and filter for the crankcase
ventilation.
6.Remove the inlet pipe.
7.Remove the requisite pressure pipes and fit protective caps. Ensure cleanliness when working
with the fuel system.
NOTE! Do not bend the pipes.
8.Remove the exhaust elbow. If only one or a few
cylinder heads are to be removed, the exhaust
pipe can be left on. In which case remove the
screws for the intended cylinder head and loosen
the screws somewhat for the other cylinder
heads.
9.Remove the oil leak pipe for the injectors.
10. Remove the injectors for the cylinder head to be
removed. Turn the injector with a wrench (U-15),
pulling it upwards are the same time. If necessary
use extractor 9996643.
11. Remove the valve covers, rocker arm mechanism
and push rods.
NOTE! To simplify removal of the rocker arm
mechanism the engine should be turned so that
the valves are closed.
12. Remove the screws that hole the cylinder heads,
102/3 series. Remove the insert seals between
the cylinder heads. Lift off the cylinder heads.
13. Remove the cylinder head gaskets, rubber seals
and their guides from the block.
NOTE! If the crankshaft has to be turned round:
Fit tool 9992666 for the 102/3 series and 9998043
for the 122 series to secure the cylinder liners.
Cylinder head, dismantling
Special tool: Valve spring compressor
1.Remove the valves and valve springs. Use a
valve spring compressor to remove the valve collets.
2.Place the valves in a valve rack in the order they
were in the engine. TAMD102/3: Remove the
valve stem seal from the inlet valve guide.
3.Clean all parts. Observe special care with the
channels for oil and coolant. Inspect the tightness
with the leakage test, see page 24.
4.Remove residual soot and impurities from the
sealing surfaces on the cylinder head. 122 series:
Clean the sealing grooves. Observe care not to
damage the thin edge.
Removing injector
Sealing groove in cylinder head, 122 series
23
Page 26
Repairs
Cylinder head, leakage test
Special tools: 9992124 (2 pcs), 999 6662,
102/3-series: 9996685
122-series: 9996683
Pressure testing device
A. Reducing valve
B. Cock
Leakage test
1.102 series: Fit the clamp 9996685 and expander
screws 9992124 (2 pcs), see Figure 122 series:
Fit the connecting washer 9996683 and expander
screws 9992124 (2 pcs), see Figure.
Do not tighten the wing nuts too hard to avoid
damaging the rubber seals.
102/3122
Before using the pressure testing device it should
be inspected as follows:
1.Connect pressure testing device 9996662 to the
compressed air supply and set the manometer to
100 kPa (14.5 lbf/in2) with the reducing valve (A).
NOTE! The knob on the reducing valve can be
locked by moving the lock ring.
2.Close the cock (B). The manometer should not
drop for two minutes if the pressure testing device is to be considered reliable.
2.Check that the knob on the reducing value is unscrewed and connect the hose from the pressure
testing device to the cylinder head.
3.Submerge the cylinder head in water, temp. approx. 70°C (158°F).
4.Connect the pressure testing device to the compressed air system and open the cock.
IMPORTANT! Follow the applicable safety
instructions. Do not lean over the expander
screws.
24
Page 27
Repairs
5.Pull out the lock ring for the knob on the reducing
valve. Increase the pressure by screwing in the
knob until the manometer shows 50 kPa (7.25 lbf/
in2). Hold the pressure for 1 minute, then increase
the pressure to 150 kPa (21.75 lbf/in2). Lock the
knob by pressing in the lock ring and closing the
cock. Check after 1–2 minutes if the pressure
drops, or if air bubbles escape into the water.
6.Release the compressed air hose. Open the cock
and reducing valve. Remove the test equipment.
Cracks in cylinder head
When renovating engines that have clocked up a lot of
hours an inspection of the cylinder head may reveal
heat cracks between the valve seat and hole for the
injector, see Figure.
Cylinder head, inspection
The cylinder head warp must be max. 0.02 mm
(0.0008"). If the warp is more than 0.02 mm (0.0008"),
or if there are blow marks, the cylinder head should be
machined or replaced.
122 series: After surface grinding new sealing grooves
must be milled.
The flame edge does not require machine as long as
the tolerance for min. cylinder head height is maintained, see
Cylinder head, surface grinding
below.
Cylinder head, surface grinding
Special tool: 9992479, dial indicator
The cylinder head does not need to be replaced or
scrapped because of heat cracks. Heat cracks stabilise after a certain time and they have not proved to
have any effect on engine performance. The cracks
begin at the copper sleeve on the injector and run towards the recess for the valve seat.
The cracks can be the result of over-tightening the injector retainer. Tests conducted on this type of crack
have in no case resulted in the leakage of gas or coolant, since the crack has not continued through the
base of the cylinder head.
When leakage has been confirmed it has proved to be
the result of impurities or damage to the seat of the
copper sleeve, which where appropriate must therefore be rectified.
Cylinder heads in the Volvo Penta exchange system
may incorporate these heat cracks. The cracks are inspected during renovation and are evaluated to be of
no importance, i.e. the cylinder head is guaranteed to
be fully serviceable.
1.Surface roughness after grinding must be max.
1.6 RA.
NOTE! On the 122 series surface grinding should
remove the sealing grooves. This distance (A)
from the machines surface of the cylinder head to
the valve disc must not be less that 1.2 mm
(0.0472") for the 102/3 series, and 0.2 (0.0079")
for the 122 series. If further grinding of the cylinder head is necessary, the valve seats must be
milled down.
2.The height of the cylinder head after surface
grinding must not be less than 114.65 mm
(4.514") for the 102/3 series, and 124.65 mm
(4.907") for the 122 series.
The flame edge groove does not need machining.
3.122 series: Mill new sealing grooves in the head
according to the instruction below.
25
Page 28
Repairs
Cylinder head, milling of sealing
grooves, 122 series
Special tool: 9999531
When milling new grooves the cylinder head should be
machined so that the previous sealing grooves are
completely removed.
3.Set the dial indicator to zero to the collar.
4.Push the retainer with the indicator sideways so
that the indicator tip rests on the highest point on
one of the cutting tools. Correct cutting depth
(tool height): 0.20 mm (0.0079").
1. Nut
2. Turning handle
3. Guide plate
4. Guide pins
5. Spindle
6. Milling head
7. Tool retainer
The height of the cylinder head, and the distance between the vale disc plane and the cylinder head plane
should not be less than the dimensions given in the
specifications.
Check also that the valve guides are not worn, since
the guiding of the grooving tool is fixed with the guide
pins through the valve guides.
Adjusting
5.Release the lock screw (A) (socket head 4 mm
(0.158")) and adjusting screw B (socket head
5 mm (0.197")), a few turns.
Setting of the tool’s cutting depth
1.Set up the tool in a vice with the tool facing upwards.
2.Fix a dial indicator in holder 9992479 and place
this over the grooving tool’s ring shaped collar.
26
Page 29
Repairs
6.Press down the tool holder and tighten the lock
screw somewhat so that it presses against the
holder.
7.Place the indicator tip against the highest point
on the tool and screw the adjusting screw up until
the correct valve is obtained on the tool.
8.Tighten the lock screw.
NOTE! Check that the tool holder’s upper edge is
level with the cutting head. If not, then the dial indicator has moved an extra turn.
5.Turn the milling tool clockwise with a uniform
movement. The cutter is fed automatically in that
the nut follows the movement and presses the
spring together.
6.Turn the tool round until it stops cutting. Remove
the nut and lift up the milling head.
7.Clean the cylinder head carefully. Check the
depth of the grooves by replacing the milling head
without the spring and nut and turning it a few
turns with hand pressure. If the tool does not cut,
the grooves are the correct depth. This check
should always be conducted because metal shavings can get under the milling head collar. The
burrs on the edges of the grooves should be left.
Removing these burrs can damage the edges, adversely affecting the sealing function of the
grooves.
Milling of sealing grooves
1.Set up the cylinder head in a vice.
2.Screw the guide plate on the cylinder head. The
plate should be positioned so that it is centred between the holes for cylinder head’s fixing screws.
IMPORTANT! Do not over-tighten the nuts
for the guide pins to avoid pressing the
valve guides in the cylinder head.
3.Brush a little oil on the inner diameter of the milling head. Make sure that the cylinder head surface is completely clean and carefully bring down
the milling head on the guide plate with a turning
movement so that it does not clench.
4.Put the spring and nut in position and tighten the
nut slightly.
Replacing tool unit
1.Unscrew the lock screw a few turns and screw
the adjusting screw up so that the tool holder can
be removed from the milling head.
2.The tool holders are marked with a letter (A, B, C
or D) and the corresponding letter is punched in
the tool head where the tool holder should be
placed.
NOTE! The two socket head screws in the tool
holder must not be moved.
27
Page 30
Repairs
3.Put the tool holders in the milling head according
to the letter markings and with the grooves
turned towards the lock screws. Adjust the tool
height according to previous instructions.
4.Move the valve sideways in the direction of the
outlet and inlet channels. Read off the valve on
the dial indicator.
Wear tolerances:
Inlet valve max. clearance 0.2 mm (0.0079")
Outlet valve max. clearance 0.3 mm (0.0118")
If these values are exceeded the valve guides
should be replaced.
Valve guides, replacing
Special tools: 102/3-series: 9991084, 9996668,
9996669
122-series: 9991084, 9992953
1.Press out the valve guides with drift 9991084.
Valve guides, inspection
Special tools: 9989876, 9999696
To determine the wear on the valve guides a new
valve is put in the guide and the clearance is measured with a dial indicator.
1.Remove the stud for the injector yoke and place
the cylinder head on a level surface so that it
rests on the valve guides.
Block up one edge of the cylinder head to ensure
that it is stable.
2.Put a new valve in the valve guide so that the
valve stem rests on the surface.
3.Place a dial indicator with magnetic stand so that
the tip of the indicator is in contact with the edge
of the valve.
Pressing out valve guide
2.Oil in the new valve guides.
NOTE! There are different types of valve guides,
see Figure.
28
A = Guide for inlet valve*
B = Guide for outlet valve*
* For TAMD102/3 this guide is shorter than for the other engines.
Page 31
Repairs
3.Press in the guides with drift 9996668 (inlet) and
9996669 (outlet) for the 102/3 series, and
9992953 for the 122 series. The tools give the
correct height over the cylinder head’s spring
plane.
Pressing in valve guide
A. 102/3: 9996668 (IN), 9996669 (OUT)
122: 9992953
4.Ream the valve guides if necessary. Clearance
valve – valve guide: see Workshop Manual,
Technical data
.
1.Remove the old valve seat by grinding two diametrical notches in the seat and then cracking it
with a chisel, see Figure
IMPORTANT! Observe care to avoid damaging the cylinder head.
Removing valve seat
2.Clean the seat recess carefully and check the
cylinder head for cracks.
3.Measure the diameter of the valve seat recess.
Examine if a seat of standard size or oversize
should be used. If necessary machine the valve
seat recess.
4.Cool the seat in dry ice to minus60–70°C (mi-nus 76 –94°F) and warm the cylinder head with
hot water or otherwise. Press in the seat with a
drift.
5.Machine the seat to the correct angle and width.
Valve seats, replacement
The valve seat should be replaced when the distance
(A), measured with a new valve, exceeds 2.5 mm(0.098") for the 102/3 series and 1.5 mm (0.059") for
the 122 series.
This measurement refers to both inlet and outlet
valves.
29
Page 32
Repairs
Valve seats and valves, grinding
The valve guides should be inspected, and replaced if
the wear tolerances have been exceeded, before
grinding.
3.Check the fit with marking dye. In the event of
poor fit, grind the valve seat again and inspect
again.
Valve springs, inspection
Check the length of the valve springs, unloaded and
loaded. Use a spring gauge. The springs should maintain the values given in the Workshop Manual,
nical data
.
Tech-
Valve and valve seat
A. 102/3 series: 1.20–1.70 mm (0.05–0.07"),
max. 2.5 mm (0.098")
122 series: 0.20–1.20 mm (0.008–0.05")
max. 1.5 mm (0.59")
B. 3–4 mm (0.1181–0.1575")
C. Inlet = 30°, outlet = 45°
D. Inlet = 29.5 °. outlet = 44.5°
1.Ream or grind the valve seats (just enough to ensure the correct shape and good contact) The
seat angle should be 45 and 30°.
NOTE! If the size “A” (see Figure below) for the
102/3 series exceeds 2.5 mm (0.098"), measured
with new valve, the valve seat should be replaced. The corresponding size for the 122 series
is 1.5 mm (0.059").
2.Clean the valves and machine grind. Set the
grinding machine to 44.5 and 29.5°. Grind just
enough to ensure that surface becomes “clean”. If
the thickness of the disc edge is less than 1.4
mm (0.055") (outlet) and 1.9 mm (0.075") (inlet)
after grinding, the valve should be scrapped.
Valves with crooked stems should also be
scrapped.
Spring gauge
30
Rocker arm mechanism,
inspection
Special tools: 9992267, 9992677
1.Remove the lock rings, rocker arms and shaft.
2.Clean the parts, observing special care with the
oil channel in the bearing housing and the oil
holes in the rocker arm shaft and rocker arms.
Page 33
Rocker arm mechanism
3.Check the wear on the rocker arm shaft and ball
pin. The threads should be undamaged on the ball
pin and lock nut. The rocker arm’s mating surface
to the valve cap should be worn or pitted. Minor
wear can be adjusted can be adjusted in a grinding ma chine. Check the tightness of the hat
plugs in the shaft ends.
4.Out-of round worn rocker arm bushings are replaced. Press out the bushing with drift 9992677,
using drift 9992267 as a backstop.
Press in the new bushing with drift 9992677.
Make sure that the oil hole comes opposite the oil
channel in the rocker arm.
Ream the bushing once it is pressed in. Remove
any shavings.
5.Oil in the shaft and assemble the parts.
Repairs
Cylinder head, assembly
If the injector’s copper sleeve need replacing, see
Workshop Manual,
1.122 series: Place the lower valve spring washers
on the cylinder head. There are no such washers
in the 102/3 series.
2.TAMD102/3: Apply grease on the lip of the valve
shaft seal and fit the inlet valve’s guide. Tap it
down with an appropriate sleeve so that the seal
stops against the cylinder head.
Valve shaft seal, TAMD102/103
3.Oil in the valve stems and fit the valves in their
guides. Fit the springs and top washers.
4.Press the springs together with a valve spring
compressor and fit the valves locks. Put on the
valve caps.
5.If the cylinder head’s cleaning plugs have been
removed, make sure that the sealing surfaces are
well cleaned.
Put on new gaskets. Tightening the plugs with a
torque of 60 Nm (44 lbf.ft).
1. Clean the cylinder block surface with a brass
brush. Make sure not to scratch the surfaces.
2.Check the height of the cylinder liner over the
block plane, see
assembly
Correct height over block plane,
102 series: 0.15–0.20 mm (0.0060– 0.0079")
103 series: 0.14–0.19 mm (0.0055–0.0075")
122 series: 0.47–0.52 mm (0.0185– 0.0205")
Cylinder linesr and pistons,
.
4.Put the cylinder head on the block.
5.Check the cylinder head screws.
IMPORTANT! The screws are phosphated
and must not be cleaned with a wire brush.
If there are cut marks under the screw
heads or in the threads they should be
replaced with new ones.
Cylinder head screws
A. 102/3: 9992666
122: 9998043
3. Put new sealing rings and new cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block.
102/3 series: Clean the mating surfaces for the
insert seals between the heads, using fine emery
paper.
Submerge the cylinder head screws (including
heads) in antirust agent, part No. 282036-3 (or a
mixture of 75% Tectyl 511 and 25% paraffin). The
screws should not drip when fitted (otherwise oil
can be forced up and seen as leakage).
Tightening torque for cylinder head screws,
102/3 series
Cylinder head gasket and sealing rings, 102/3 series
32
Tightening torque for cylinder head screws, 122 series
Page 35
Repairs
6.102/3 series: Tighten the cylinder head screws as
per the diagram (see Figure on last page) in four
stages.
8.102/3 series: Fit the insert seals between the cylinder heads.
NOTE! Grease or oil must not be used on the
seals. Use soapy water.
Fit the bottom parts to the valve covers.
Tighten the screws to 10 Nm (7 lbf.ft).
NOTE! Higher torque risks damaging the seal.
Valves, adjusting
IMPORTANT! The clearance must never be
checked when the engine is running, but should
be checked when the engine is idle, cold, or at
running temperature.
Valve clearance,
Inlet,TAMD102A/D,
TAMD103A, TAMD122P:0.50 mm (0.020")
Other engines:0.40 mm (0.016")
Outlet, TAMD102A/D,
TAMD103A, TAMD122P:0.80 mm (0.032")
Other engines:0.70 mm (0.028")
Cylinder No. 6 is placed next to the flywheel.
Positioning of valves, 102/3 series
Insert seals, 102/3 series
9.All engines. Fit the pull rods and rocker arm
mechanism. Adjust the valves. Put on the valve
covers.
10. Fit the injectors. Tightening torque 50 Nm (37
lbf.ft).
Fit the remaining equipment.
NOTE! The gasket between the cylinder head and
exhaust pipe is turned so that the plate covered
side comes against the exhaust pipe.
m Inlet l Outlet
Positioning of valves, 122 series
1.Remove the valve covers. Adjust the valve clearance for the 1st cylinder when it is in firing position, whereby the valves for cylinder No. 6 “rock”.
2.Turn the engine one third of a turn in the correct
direction of rotation and check the clearance for
the 5th. The valves for the 2nd thereby rock. Check
the clearance in the firing sequence for the other
cylinders.
Firing sequence 153624
Valves that “rock”
on corresponding624153
cylinder
3. Clean the covers and fit them. Replace damaged
gaskets. Check that no leakage occurs.
33
Page 36
Repairs
Cylinder block
Cylinder liners and pistons, removing
Special tools: 9991801, 999 2013, 9996394 (2 pcs),
9996395 (2 pcs), 9996645
102/3 series: 9992089, 9992666 (2 pcs)
122-serien: 9992955, 9998043 (2 pcs)
NOTE! The cylinder liners and pistons can, space permitting, be removed without removing the oil pan. In
which case, work is carried out through the inspection
openings in the oil pan.
1.Remove the cylinder head, see page 23, and
where appropriate the oil pan.
NOTE! If the oil pan is removed on TMD102 the
rear inspection panel on the pan must be removed first and the oil strainer unscrewed from
the pan.
Retainers 9992666 (102/3 series) and 999 8043
(122 series) must be fitted if the cylinder liner is
to stay on the engine when the piston is removed
so that the liner is not moved out of position, see
Figure under
If the liner slides up when removing the piston the
liner should also be removed since there is a considerable risk that impurities will drop down between the liner and block and cause leakage.
2.TAMD102/3: Turn the crankshaft so that the piston for the relevant cylinder stands in the T.D.C.
Remove the piston cooling nozzle placed opposite the lug on the outside of the block, see Figure On the 122 series the piston and connecting
rod can be removed without removing the piston
cooling nozzle.
Liner recess, renovation
, page 36.
4.Remove the main bearing cap. Tap up the connecting rod with a hammer handle to release the
piston rings from the cylinder lining. Lift off the
piston and connecting rod.
IMPORTANT! Scrape off the soot edge in
the top part of the cylinder liner to simplify
removing the piston and connecting rod.
5.Dismantle the cylinder liner with extractor
9996645, supports 9996394 and 999 6395 and
extractor plate 9992089 for the 102/3 series and
9992955 for the 122 series.
Removing cylinder liner
6.Remove the lock rings for the gudgeon pin.
7.Carefully tap out the gudgeon pin with drift
9992013 and handle 9991801.
Piston cooling nozzle, TAMD102/3
3. Turn the crankshaft until the connecting rod come
in position to remove the main bearing cap
screws.
34
Removing gudgeon pin
8.Remove the piston rings with a pair of piston rod
pliers.
For fitting of pistons and liners, see page 39.
Page 37
Cylinder liners, inspection, measuring
The inspection covers measuring the wear and checking for cracks. The magnaflux method is most suitable when looking for cracks.
Clean the liner carefully before measuring. A cylinder
indicator is used for accurate measuring.
The wear is normally most extensive in the top dead
centre where the temperature is highest.
Liner wear can also be determined by measuring the
piston ring gas with a new piston ring in the top dead
centre and below the bottom dead centre. The difference between the measured values is divided by 3.14,
whereby the liner wear is obtained.
Example:
Piston ring gap in unworn part = 0.60 mm (0.0236")
Piston ring gap in top dead centre =1.70 mm (0.0669")
Difference 1.70 – 0.60 (0.0669 – 0.0236") = 1.10 mm
(0.0433")
Diameter wear:= 0.35 mm (0.0138")
If the liner wear is 0.40–0.45 mm (0.0157 – 0.0177")
the liner unit should be replaced.
Pistons and liners are only sold as complete units.
1.10 (0.0433")
3.14
Repairs
Flex honing of cylinder liner
1.Put the cylinder liner in a vice, see above figure.
Flex honing of the cylinder liner in the block is not
recommended in view of the risk of blocking oil
channels and the difficulty of conducting it properly.
2.Use a low speed drill, 200 – 400 rpm, and honing
tool of the GBD127 (5") type, size 80 for the
102/3 series and, and GBD140 5 ½") for the 122
series.
The cylinder liner is lubricated with thin engine oil
before and during honing. The honing tool is
moved in and out of the liner with 60 strokes/
minute (one inward and outward movement per
second).
3.The honing pattern on the cylinder liner is carefully calculated to ensure an optimum life span, see
figure below.
Measuring piston clearance
Cylinder liners, flex honing
It is important to ensure good lubrication and sealing it
is important that the cylinder wall has its original honing pattern, see figure. It is therefore appropriate to
hone the cylinder wall if,
–the cylinder liner is scratched (ring cutting, dirt)
–the cylinder liner has bright patches (polishing)
35
Page 38
Repairs
When honing in connection with replacing piston
rings the original honing pattern must be carefully
followed to retain the lubricating function.
The honing must be conducted uniformly and cut
equally in both directions over the complete cylinder liner.
NOTE! The correct speed must be maintained to
obtain the correct pattern.
4.It is very important to clean the liner well with hot
water, a brush and detergent (never use solvent,
paraffin or diesel oil) after honing. Dry the liner
with paper or a rag that does not fluff, and then
lubricate the liner with thin engine oil.
102 series: 0.15– 0.20 mm (0.0060– 0.0079")
103 series: 0.14–0.19 mm (0.0055–0.0075")
122 series: 0.47– 0.52 mm (0.0185– 0.0205")
Removed material can be compensated for with
shims, which are available in thicknesses of 0.20,
0.30, 0.50 mm (0.0079, 0.0118 and 0.0197"). The
smallest possible number of shims should be
used. Calculate the thickness of the shims with
respect to the extent of the damage and the
height of the liner over the block plane.
NOTE! If shims are used the liner recesses must
be machined to a certain extent, even if the liner
recesses in the cylinder block are undamaged, in
that the fillet radius at the bottom of the liner recesses must be removed for the shim to achieve
correct contact.
2.Before milling the liner recess the surface should
be roughened up with emery paper to preserve
the sharpness of the tool, especially if the surface has previously been ground with grinding
paste.
The bottom liner seals should be fitted in the
block to improve guiding the milling tool.
3.Set up milling tool 999 9551 for the 102/3 series
and 9999902 for the 122 series. Make sure that
the tool collar does not catch on intermediate wall
in the block.
Remove the bottom liner seals from the cylinder
block.
Examine the top liner recess mating plane with marker
dye. In the event of uncertainty concerning the degree
of wear, see
Fitting of cylinder liners and pistons
.
If there is negligible damage use grinding paste to adjust, see item 6. If there is more extensive damage
use milling tool 9999551 (102/3 series) and 9999902
(122 series) to adjust as follows:
1.Clamp the liner in the block (without sealing rings)
and measure the height of the liner as per the figure (zero the dial indicator to the cylinder block).
Tool for renovating liner recess
102/3 series: 999 9551.
122-series: 999 9902.
36
A. 102/3: 9992666
122: 9998043
Page 39
Repairs
4.Position the milling tool and yoke. The tool is
fixed on the cylinder block with screws, and appropriate flat washers are placed under the screw
heads. Make sure that the feed screw presses on
the tool.
5.Use a dial indicator as per the figure and screw
down the feed sleeve so that it presses lightly on
the tool. Zero the dial indicator.
A T-bar with ¾" connection and a 25 mm (0.984")
sleeve is used to turn the tool.
The tool should be turned with a uniform movement while turning the feed sleeve.
Stop the feed and turn the tool a few turns.
Check the mating surface of the liner recess and
the height of the step edge at regular intervals.
The milling is stopped when 0.02 mm (0.0008")
remains to the correct height.
6.Coat the underside of the liner collar with grinding
paste.
Fit the liner and turn it backwards and forwards
until the grinding paste is spent (use tool 9999511
for the 102/3 series and 999903 for the 122 series. Remove the liner and wipe off the grinding
paste. Repeat the grinding until a good mating
surface is obtained.
7.Check the mating surface with marker dye on the
liner recess. Turn the liner backwards and forwards. Mark the liner so that when it is put back it
comes in the same position.
8.Carefully clean all parts.
Cylinder block, surface grinding
When grinding the surface block make sure not to go
below the minimum measurements.
A = Height over block plane – crankshaft centre
102/3: Min. 438.8 mm (17.276").
122: Min. 463.8 mm (18.260”)
B = Height, lower block plane – crankshaft centre
102/3, 122: Min. 120 mm (4.724")
NOTE! After grinding the upper block plane the piston
height must be measured as per the instructions, see
Cylinder liners and pistons, assembly, item 15
.
Pistons, inspection
Inspect the pistons for cracks and other damage. If
the pistons have deep lines in the jacket surface the
pistons (liner unit) must be scrapped. The same applies if the pistons have one or more cracks in the
gudgeon pin hole or in the bottom of the combustion
chamber. Cracks in the edge of the piston top round
the combustion chamber are as a rule not serious.
The lime powder method is used to check for cracks.
Note! If there are cracks in the pistons the injection
volume should also be checked.
In similarity with cylinder liners the pistons are
classed, which implies that pistons should be fitted in
the corresponding class of cylinder liner. Pistons and
cylinder liners are only supplied as spare parts in one
complete unit.
Piston rings, inspection
Inspect the wear on surfaces and sides. Black patches on the surfaces imply poor contact, and that the
piston rings should be replaced. The oil consumption
also is also a decisive factor for when piston rings
should be replaced.
In general piston rings should be replaced if there is
noticeable wear or ovality in the cylinders, since the
rings seldom go back in the same position they had
before they were removed.
37
Page 40
Repairs
Check the piston ring gap, see figure. The ring is
pushed down below the bottom dead centre with a
piston for the measurement. Replace piston rings if
the gap is 1.5 mm (0.0591") or more.
Check the piston gap on new rings also. For measurements, see Workshop Manual,
Checking of piston ring gap
Technical data
.
Connecting rod bushings,
replacement
Special tools: 9991801,
102-series: 9992529
122-series: 9992952
1.Press out the old bushing with drift 9992529 (102
series) and 9992952 (122 series).
Pressing out connecting rod bushing
2.Draw a line over the hole on the new bushing and
connecting rod. Use a felt-tip pen.
3.Heat up the connecting rod to approx. 100°C
(212°F).
Connecting rods, inspection
Inspect for cracks. Check linearity and distortion. Linearity, max. deviation: 0.05 mm (0.0020") per 100
mm (3.937"). Distortion, max deviation: 0.1 mm
(0.0039") per 100 mm (3.937"). The measurement is
conducted in a fixture for inspecting connecting rods.
Crooked or distorted connecting rods are scrapped. Inspect the connecting rod bushing, appropriately by using the gudgeon pin as a gauge. The must be no noticeable play.
38
4.Press the new bushing carefully into the connecting rod. Use the same drift for pressing out.
NOTE! Check that the hole in the bushing corresponds with the oil channel in the connecting rod.
5.After pressing in the bushing it is reamed. An
oiled gudgeon pin should slowly slide through the
bushing by virtue of its own weight if the fit is correct.
Page 41
Repairs
Pistons, rings and connecting rods,
assembly
Special tools: 9991801, 9992013
1.Fit one of the lock rings.
2.Oil in the gudgeon pin and connecting rod bushing.
3.Heat up the piston to approx. 100°C (212°F). Position the piston and connecting rod so that the
piston’s and connecting rod’s “Front” markings
face the same direction. Press in the gudgeon pin
with drift 9992013 and standard handle 9991801.
NOTE! The gudgeon pin should be able to be
pressed in easily, it must not be knocked in.
1.Carefully clean the liner recess in the cylinder
block. The sealing surfaces must be completely
free from rust and deposits. Use detergent and a
brass brush, and blow dry with compressed air.
NOTE! Do not use a scraper.
Clean also the groove for the bottom liner seals.
2.Apply a thin layer of marker dye to the underside
of the liner flange.
Push down the liner in its recess without inserting
the sealing rings, and turn it slightly on its collar.
Use expander 9999511 for the 102 series and
9999903 for the 122 series.
4.Fit the other lock ring.
5Check that the connecting rod is not stiff in the
gudgeon pin bearing.
6.Press in the new piston rings in the cylinder liner.
See the last figure in section
flex honing
7.Fit the piston rings on the piston with a pair of
piston ring pliers so that the markings face upwards. The opening in the expander spring should
be placed opposite the oil ring gap.
, page 35.
Cylinder liners,
A. 102: 999 9511
122: 999 9903
3.Pull up the liner and examine whether the dye has
rubbed off on the entire collar surface. If the
marking dye should indicate poor fit, grinding
paste can be used to adjust minor damage. In the
event of serious damage the liner recess must be
machined with a special milling tool and removed
material compensated for with steel shims. See
Liner recess, renovation.
39
Page 42
Repairs
4.Clamp the liner in the block (without sealing rings)
and measure the liner height as per the figure
(zero the dial indicator clock to the cylinder
block).
Correct height over the block plane
102-series: 0.15–0.20 mm (0.0060–0.0079")
122-series: 0.47–0.52 mm (0.0185–0.0205")
Sealant on the liner collar if no shims are required.
Sealant on the liner recess if shims are required.
Measuring liner height
A. 102: 9992666
122: 9998043
5.Mark up the position of the cylinder liner to the
cylinder block with a colour pen. Remove the
press tool and lift up the cylinder liner.
6.Fit new sealing rings in the cylinder block.
NOTE! Lubricate the rings with the lubricant included in the pack with the rings.
For positioning of the rings, see the installation
instruction in the pack.
7.Clean the cylinder liner collar well. The liner
should be dry and free from grease. Use a degreasing agent such as paraffin.
8.Apply a uniform, max. 0.8 mm (0.0315") wide,
string of sealant (1161277-7) on the cylinder liner.
NOTE! If shims are used for the liner the string of
sealant is applied on the liner recess in the cylinder block.
NOTE! No sealant between the shims and liner
collar.
After applying the sealant the liner must be positioned within 20 minutes. The liner must be
clamped, and not released until the cylinder head
is put in position.
When inserting the pistons, or if the engine is
turned round, all the cylinder liners must be
clamped to prevent movement between cylinder
liner and cylinder block.
9.Place a new sealing ring under the liner collar.
NOTE! The ring should be dry (not lubricated).
10. Fit the cylinder liner in the cylinder block as per
the markings. Tap down the liner with plate
9996599 and handle 992000.
40
Page 43
Repairs
11. Fit the clamp on the liner.
12. Put the bearing shells in their positions in the
connecting rod and cap. Check that the hole in
the bearing shell comes opposite the hole in the
connecting rod.
Lubricate the piston and big end bearing with engine oil and turn the rings so that the piston ring
gaps are evenly distributed round the piston.
13. Check that the arrow on the piston top and the
connecting rod’s “FRONT” marking are turned in
the same direction. Fit the piston and connecting
rod in the respective cylinders so that the arrow
on the piston top points forwards. Use piston ring
compressor 885126.
15. Turn the flywheel until the piston comes to the
top position. Check the height of the piston over
the cylinder block plane.
Place a dial indicator in a magnetic stand and
zero to the cleaned cylinder block plane.
Release the magnetic stand and place the tip of
indicator against the piston.
Max. height of piston over block plane: 0.55 mm
(0.0217").
Measuring height of piston
14. Screw tight the main bearing cap as per the markings.
NOTE! There are two versions of screws. Different tightening procedures are applied, see below.
In the event angular tightening cannot be implemented, a torque of 260 Nm (192 lbf.ft) should be
applied.
16. Fit the piston cooling nozzle if it has been removed.
NOTE! Use new screw.
41
Page 44
Repairs
Timing gears
Front crankshaft seals, replacement
Special tools: 9992655, 999 6795, 9992656
1.Remove the vibration damper.
2.Remove the polygon hub’s centre screw, remove
the washer, and pull of the hub with extractor
9992655.
4.Dip a new felt ring and rubber ring in oil and fit
them with drift 9996795. Tap in the rubber ring
first.
1
FRONT
1. Felt ring
2. Rubber ring
2
Removing polygon hub
3.Tap in the sealing rings on one side so that they
angle out. Carefully bend out the rings with a
screwdriver.
Front crankshaft seal
5.Fit the polygon hub and flywheel damper, see As-
sembly of timing gear cover.
Timing gear cover, removing
Special tools: 9992655
1.Remove the drive belts for the alternator. Release
the belt tensioner and remove the drive belts for
the coolant pump.
2.Remove the brackets for the heat exchanger.
3.Remove the pulley from the alternator’s and coolant pump’s drive output. Release the oil pipe from
the drive output. Remove the two top nuts on the
drive output.
4.Remove the flywheel damper and pulley where
appropriate.
NOTE! The vibration damper must not be
knocked since its characteristics can be completely changed if the shape or volume of the
carefully balanced fluid chamber is changed.
42
Page 45
Repairs
5.Remove the polygon hub’s centre screw, remove
the washer, and pull of the hub with extractor
9992655.
Removing polygon hub
2.Apply a string of sealant (1161231-4) on the timing gear cover, see figure. Apply Permatex on the
oil pan gasket.
6.Remove the screws that hold the timing gear cover. Do not forget the screws for the oil pan. Carefully tap off the timing gear cover.
IMPORTANT! Make sure not to damage the
oil pan gasket. Otherwise, the oil pan must
be removed and gasket replaced.
3.Oil in the sealing rings for the crankshaft.
4.Fit the cover within 20 minutes.
Tightening torque: 40 Nm (30 lbf.ft).
5.Check the polygon hub and its mating surface on
the crankshaft. Cut marks can be removed with
fine emery paper. Grease in the crankshaft journal with molybdenum disulphide. Fit the centring
part for tool 9992656 on the crankshaft journal.
Timing gear cover, assembly
Special tools: 9992656, 1158959
For replacement of front crankshaft seals, see the
previous page.
1.Clean the mating surfaces on the timing gear
cover and the timing gear casing. Scrape off all
residual sealant.
Fitting of centring part for drift 9992656
43
Page 46
Repairs
6.Heat the polygon hub to approx. 100°C (212°F).
Quickly tap on the hub with drift 9992656, see figure.
Fitting polygon hub
Timing gears, removing
(With timing gear cover removed)
Special tool: 9992658
WARNING! If the crankshaft and camshaft are
turned without being synchronised to each other
the valves can be damaged.
1.Remove the rear valve cover. Turn the crankshaft
until the valves for cylinder No. 6 “rock” and the
flywheel is at 0°.
2.Remove the screws that hold the camshaft gear
and the injection pump gear. Remove the gears.
7.Fit the washer and centre screw, and tighten the
hub while it is still hot. Tightening torque: 400 Nm
(295 lbf.ft) When the hub has cooled re-tighten
the screw to a torque of 550 Nm (406 lbf.ft).
Tightening polygon hub
A. Torque multiplier 1158959
Removing camshaft gear
3.Remove the intermediate gear and its bearing
journal when the three screws have been released.
4.Remove the crankshaft gear with extractor
9992658.
8.Fit the flywheel damper and pulley. Tightening
torque 60 Nm (44 lbf.ft). Fit the remaining equipment.
44
Removing crankshaft gear
If the oil pump gear is damaged the oil pump
must be removed and the gear replaced.
Page 47
Repairs
Timing gears, inspection
NOTE! TAMD102D and TAMD122P-A/P-B/P-C.
The timing gears on these engines are nitro-carburized. The gears are marked “N” or “NITRO”. They can
also be recognised by their dull grey or yellow-grey
colour.
WARNING! Nitro-carburized gears must not be
fitted together with induction hardened (tempered) gears marked “HT”.
Case-hardened gears, marked “CH”, can be
used in all gear combinations.
Clean the gears and other parts of the timing gears
and inspect carefully. Replace gears that are severely
worn or damaged.
For measurements, see the Workshop Manual,
nical data.
Tech-
2.Check that the camshaft gear’s guide pin is fitted.
Fit the camshaft gear. Do not tighten the screws.
3.Fit the intermediate gear as per the markings, see
figure. The bearing shell and thrust washer are
placed as per the figure. Tightening torque 60 Nm
(44 lbf.ft).
Timing gears, basic setting
Transmission gears, assembly
Special tool: 999 2659
WARNING! If the crankshaft and camshaft are
turned without being synchronised with each
other the valves can be damaged.
All gears in the timing gears that are of importance for
the setting are marked with punch marks opposite the
tooth and tooth gap (figure under item 3)
1.Check that the crankshaft key is fitted. Fit the
crankshaft gear with tool 9992659.
NOTE! The larger thread on the tool’s spindle fits
in the crankshaft. Hold the tool’s spindle so that
the crankshaft does not turn (with possible valve
damage as a result).
NOTE! Make sure that the crankshaft gear meshes in the oil pump gear if this is fitted.
Intermediate gear
4.Check that the guide pin is fitted in the shaft for
the injection pump, and fit the pump gear. Make
sure that the markings correspond with the figure.
Tighten the camshaft gear and pump gear. Tightening toque 45 Nm (33 lbf.ft) for 3/8" screws, and
60 Nm (44 lbf.ft)* for M10 screws.
5.Check the camshaft’s axial clearance:
0.05– 0.18 mm (0.0020–0.0071"). Radial
clearance: 0.03–0.09 mm (0.0012 –0.0035").
6.Check the intermediate gear’s axial clearance:
0.05– 0.15 mm (0.0020–0.0059"). Radial clearance: 0.03–0.09 mm (0.0012–0.0035").
* Note. 60 Nm (44 lbf.ft) applies to the camshaft gear. 70 Nm (52
lbf.ft) is applicable for the injection pump gear.
Fitting of crankshaft gear
45
Page 48
Repairs
7.Check the tooth flank clearance on all gears,
0.03–0.17 mm (0.0012 –0.0067").
A. Tooth flank clearance: 0.03 –0.17 mm
(0.0012– 0.0067")
Camshaft
Inspection of cam wear
(camshaft fitted)
Special tool: 9996772
1.Remove the valve covers. Remove the screws
for the rocker arm bearing supports and remove
the rocker arm mechanism. Lift out the push
rods.
2.Fit tool 999 6772 at the front lifter. Adjust the
length of the pre-tensioned rod on the tool so that
it lies flush with the lifter.
Timing gear casing, removing and
assembly
1.Remove the screws and lift off the timing gear
casing.
2.Carefully clean the mating surfaces on the engine
block and timing gear casing.
3.Apply a uniform 2 mm (0.08") string of sealant
(1161231) on the timing gear casing as per the f
igure.
4.Fit the timing gear casing within 20 minutes.
Tighten the screws to a torque of 40 Nm (30
lbf.ft).
Checking of lift height
3.Turn round the engine until the rod (lifter) is in its
bottom position. Check that the rod is pre-tensioned and zero the dial indicator.
4.Turn round the engine until the rod (lifter) is in its
top position. Read off the dial indicator and compare with the values in the table below.
5.Fit the push rods and rocker arm bridges after
checking all the cams. Adjust the valve clearance, see instructions under
items 2.
Valves, adjusting
,
46
Dimensions in mm
Lift height of camshaftMin. lift height
InletOutletInletOutlet
8.6 mm9.2 mm8.4 mm9.0 mm
(0.3386")(0.3622")(0.3307")(0.3543")
Page 49
Repairs
Valve timing, inspection
1.Remove the front valve cover. Turn the crankshaft until the valves for cylinder No. 1 rock, and
then turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction
of rotation until the inlet valve is completely
closed. Temporarily adjust the valve clearance for
the inlet valve to ±0 mm (±0").
2.Place dial indicator with the measuring point to
the top valve spring washer. Mount the clock with
a pre-tension of approx. 5 mm (0.20").
3.Note the dial indicator while a co-worker continues to turn the engine round in the direction of rotation. The dial indicator gives a reading when the
inlet valve begins to open. Set the indicator’s
1/100 scale to zero at precisely this opening
point.
4.Continue turning the engine past the 0° marking
on the flywheel until the marking for 10° after
T.D.C. Make sure that the degrees for the setting
stands opposite the flywheel casing’s pointer.
5.Check that the dial clock indicator reading corresponds with the valve given in the Workshop
Manual,
Technical data
.
Camshaft, removing
Special tools: 9992655, 9992679, 9998079
Camshaft
1.Remove the valve covers.
2.Release and remove the rocker arm mechanism.
3.Lift out the lifter rods.
4.Release and remove the three inspection panels
opposite the valve lifters. Lift up the valve lifters
and place them in order in a rack.
5.Conduct the work as per items 1 to 6 under the
heading “Timing gears, removing”.
6.Remove the camshaft gear, if necessary use extractor 9992679.
7.Remove the intermediate gear.
8.Remove the flange (figure to left) and lift out the
camshaft with tool 9998079 (figure to right).
Checking of valve timing
Screws forLifting out
camshaft flangecamshaft
47
Page 50
Repairs
Camshaft and lifters, inspection
Check with a steel ruler that the mating surface of the
valve lifters to the camshaft is spherical (convex). It
may also be completely flat, but under no circumstances concave (see figure). If light can be seen in
the middle of the lifting surface between ruler and lifter, the lifter should be replaced.
Checking of valve lifter
Check the bearing races and cam curves on the camshaft for wear. The cams may, for example, be worn
at an angle in axial direction. Where the damage is
slight this can be rectified by honing the cams. In the
event of further damage or wear, replace the camshaft. When replacing the camshaft all the valve lifters must also be replaced.
Camshaft, measuring
Measure the camshaft’s bearing races with a micrometer. Max. wear and ovality 0.07 mm (0.0028"). The
linearity of the shaft is checked by means of indication. Max. radial warp in relation to end bearing: 0.04
mm (0.0016"). The lifting height (cam height) is measured with a feeler gauge.
AB
Slight pitting damage on valve lifter (A) and
camshaft (D).
NOTE! If the lifter is worn across the lifting surface it
should be scrapped. The “dike” shows that the lifter
has not rotated. A dark stripe on top of the lifter surface, however, shows that the surface is not worn.
The condition of the valve lifters determines whether it
is necessary to check the camshaft for wear.
Check the lift surfaces for pitting damage. Pitting
damage can occur for different reasons, and is the result of small metal particles releasing from the hardened surface. Valve lifters and camshaft with slight
pitting damage (see figure above) may be re-fitted,
since it has been proved that the damage very seldom
gets worse.
Measuring bearing races
Measuring camshaft lift C (cam height)
C = A – B
48
Page 51
Repairs
The measurements for camshaft and camshaft bearings are in the Workshop Manual,
lifting height, see also the table on page 46.
Cam wear can be estimated without removing the
camshaft, see
Inspection of cam wear
Technical data
, on page 46.
. For
Camshaft bearings, replacing
The bearings are pressed into their seats and must be
bored after being pressed in. The camshaft bearings
can therefore only be replaced in connection with a
complete overhaul of the engine.
When pressing in the bearings check that the oil holes
come opposite the corresponding oil channels in the
block.
5.Check the camshaft’s axial clearance:
0.05– 0.18 mm (0.0020–0.0071"). Radial
clearance: 0.03– 0.08 mm (0.0012– 0.0032").
6.Check the intermediate gear’s axial clearance:
0.05– 0.15 mm (0.0020– 0.0060"). Radial clearance: 0.03– 0.09 mm (0.0012– 0.0035").
7.Check the tooth flank clearance: 0.03–0.17 mm
(0.0012–0.0067").
Tooth flank clearance (A): 0.03–0.17 mm
(0.0012– 0.0067")
Camshaft, assembly
Special tools: 9998079, 9992656
1.Oil in the camshaft’s bearing races and carefully lift the camshaft in position so as not
damage the bearings. Use tool 9998079.
2.Fit the flange for the camshaft. Tighten the
screws to a torque of 40 Nm (30 lbf.ft).
3.Turn round the engine until the 1st piston is in the
top dead centre after the compression stroke
(0° on the flywheel).
4.Check that the camshaft gear’s guide pin is fitted.
Fit the camshaft gear and intermediate gear so
that the markings correspond. Tightening torque,
camshaft gear: 45 Nm (33 lbf.ft) for 3/8" screws,
and 60 Nm (44 lbf.ft) for M10 screws. Intermediate gear: 60 Nm (44 lbf.ft).
8.Fit the timing gear cover. See
er, assembly
9.Lubricate the mating surface of the valve lifters to
the camshaft with molybdenum disulphide and oil
in the guides in the cylinder block. Fit the valve
lifters in the correct order.
10. Fit the pull rods and rocker arm mechanism.
11. Adjust the valves, see page 33, and fit the valve
covers.
12. Fit the remaining equipment. If necessary top up
with oil and coolant, and test run the engine.
, page 43.
Timing gear cov-
Timing gears, basic setting
49
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Repairs
Crank mechanism
Crankshaft, removing
(With engine removed)
Special tool: 9992655
1.Pump out the engine oil.
2.Remove the oil pan.
NOTE! On TMD102 the rear inspection panel on
the oil pan must be removed first and the oil
strainer unscrewed from the pan.
Remove the induction and pressure pipe from oil
pan.
Oil pipe, TMD102
3.Remove the crankshaft pulley, vibration damper,
polygon hub and timing gear cover. See
gear cover, removing
4.Removing the reverse gear, flywheel and flywheel
casing.
5.Remove the main bearing and big end bearing
caps. (The oil pump is removed together with the
front main bearing cap). Lift out the crankshaft.
, page 42.
Timing
Crankshaft, inspection
B. Evaluate surface damage:
The following is applicable for nitro-carburized shafts:
What on induction hardened crankshafts may be considered to be dirt scratches can in certain cases be
normal surface fineness as on a new crankshaft. On a
used shaft this is very pronounced as a result of the
extremely polished bearing surface. After a prolonged
period of use very small particles can release from the
thin surface layer.
This phenomenon can easily be confused with dirt
scratches, but differs from these in that they do not
go round the bearing journal and also have irregular
edges. These defects do not require re-grinding of the
crankshaft.
As a rule it is sufficient to use emery cloth and a new
bearing shell.
C. Measure the longitudinal curvature (warp) of
the crankshaft:
The shaft is placed either on a pair of V-blocks under
the 1st and 7th main bearing journals or braced between
studs. The measurement should be made on the 4
main bearing.
The following is applicable for the measured values:
1.Below 0.2 mm (0.0079"), no alignment unless
wear of surface damage mitigates re-grinding.
2.Between 0.2–0.7 mm (0.0079–0.0276"), careful
alignment to avoid over-alignment.
NOTE! Do not align more than is absolutely necessary.
3.Over 0.7 mm (0.0276"), the shaft should be
scrapped in view of the risk of cracking during
alignment.
D. Inspection for cracks:
An inspection should be made before and after aligning with magnetic powder of the Magnaglo type, i.e.
fluorescent powder that can be seen in ultraviolet
light. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. When
evaluating crack the following is applicable.
1.The shaft should be scrapped if there are longitudinal cracks (see figure below) on journals and in
recesses.
th
The crankshaft is nitro-carburized. A nitro-carburized
shaft has greater resistance to fatigue and wear than
an induction hardened shaft.
The crankshaft should be inspected very carefully to
avoid unnecessary reconditioning. When evaluating
the condition of the crankshaft the following factors
should be taken into consideration:
A. Measure the ovality, wear and conicity of the
bearing journals.
For measurements, see Workshop Manual,
data
.
50
Technical
Page 53
Repairs
2.The shaft should be scrapped if there are lateral
cracks (see figure) within the marked zone. This
refers to both big end and main bearing journals.
3.The shaft should be scrapped if there are cracks
longer than 5 mm (0.1969") in connection with lu-
bricating holes (see figure). Cracks shorter than 5
mm (0.1969") can be removed by grinding.
Crankshaft, reconditioning
The following work order is applicable during reconditioning:
1.Alignment (only if necessary).
2.Inspection for cracks.
3.Grinding.
4.Inspection for cracks.
5.New nitro-carburizing after grinding to undersize
to more than 0.50 mm (0.0197"). Nitro-c arburizing can be done with gas or salt, according to the
method and experience of mechanic.
6.Inspection of warp after nitro-carburizing.
7.Alignment if necessary (longitudinal curvature
between 0.2–0.7 mm (0.0079–0.0276").
8.Inspection for cracks.
9.Patch and clean well after nitro-carburizing. The
crankshaft should be well cleaned after reconditioning.
In order to clean all oil channels efficiently later
versions of crankshafts are provided with threaded plugs. These should be removed during cleaning (see figure).
4.The shaft should be scrapped if there are cracks
longer than 10 mm (0.3937") outside the marked
area (see figure). Isolated cracks less than 10mm (0.3937") can be accepted.
The crankshaft should be ground to the correct undersize, where appropriate. Make sure that the radius of
recesses are the correct size.
The intermediate main bearing journal requires special
attention in terms of the width for the axial bearing.
For measurements, see the Workshop Manual,
nical data
.
Tech-
51
Page 54
Repairs
Crankshaft, assembly
Special tool: 9992656
1.Check the cleaning of the crankshaft’s channels
and bearing surfaces, cylinder block and cap.
Check the bearing shells. Replace worn bearing
shells or those with flaking layer of lead-bronze.
2.Press the main and big end bearing caps in position. Make sure that the lubricating holes in the
upper bearing shells come opposite the oil channels and that the bearing shells and their mating
surfaces have no burrs or upset ends. Oil in the
bearings.
3.Lubricate the bearing journals with engine oil and
lift the crankshaft carefully in position. Make sure
that the markings on the timing gear correspond if
the gears are in place.
4.Fit the thrust washers for the intermediate main
bearing (axial bearing). The washers can only be
fitted in one position (see figure).
7.Check the crankshaft’s axial clearance (see
Workshop Manual,
8.Check that the “Front” markings on the connecting rods face forwards.
9.Screw tight the main bearing cap as per the markings.
NOTE! There are two versions of screws. Different tightening procedures are applied, see below.
10. Fit the oil pipes and the oil pan, see Workshop
Manual, Lubricating system.
Technical data
Previous versionNew version
).
Guide for axial bearing
5. Fit the main bearing cap. The intermediate cap is
provided with a recess, which is turned so that it
comes over the guide pin. This ensures that the
bearing cap will always be placed in the correct
axial position. Note the number of the main bearing cap, which indicates the positioning.
6.Fit the main bearing screws after oiling in the
threads. Tightening torque: 340 Nm (250 lbf.ft).
Main bearing, replacing
(crankshaft not removed)
1.Drain off the engine oil. Remove the oil pan (or removed the oil pan’s inspection panels).
2.Release the main bearing screws and remove the
main bearing cap with bearing shell. The front
main bearing cap can be removed together with
the oil pump.
3.Release the injectors so that it is easy to turn the
engine round.
52
Page 55
Repairs
4.Turn the crankshaft until its oil hole is exposed.
Place an appropriate pin in the oil hole so that
when the crankshaft is turned the upper bearing
shell follow with it, see figure.
NOTE! The engine is turned in the normal direction of rotation when rolling out the bearing shell.
Replacing upper main bearing shell
5.Wipe clean the bearing journal and inspect for
cracks. If there is excessive wear or ovality the
crankshaft must be ground.
6.Fit the new bearing shells in the same way as
they were removed. The shaft is turned in the opposite direction of rotation. Check that the lugs
pressed out of the shells come right. Fit the lower
bearing and cap. Tighten the screws to a torque
of 340 Nm (250 lbf.ft).
7.Fit the oil pipes and where appropriate the oil pan,
see Workshop Manual,
Lubricating system.
2.Remove the crankshaft seal with tool 885341 and
impact hammer 9996400.
Removing rear crankshaft seal
3.Carefully clean the mating surfaces between
crankshaft and flywheel. Clean also the sealing
ring’s mating surface in the housing.
4.Oil in the new sealing ring and fit it with drift
9996088 and handle 9992000.
Rear crankshaft seal, replacing
Special tools: 885341, 9996088, 999 6400, 9992000
1.Mark up the position of the flywheel in relation to
the crankshaft (simplifies fitting). Remove the flywheel.
Fitting of rear crankshaft seal
5.Fit the flywheel as per the previous markings.
Tightening torque: 175 Nm (130 lbf.ft).
53
Page 56
Repairs
Flywheel ring, replacing
1.Mark up the position of the flywheel in relation to
the crankshaft (simplifies fitting). Remove the flywheel.
2.Drill 1–2 holes in a tooth gap on the ring. Crack
the ring at the drilled hole with a chisel and then
remove the ring.
Polish up the ring at a number of points to check
the heat, whereby at the correct temperature
(180–200°C (356 –392°F)) the surface will become blue and the heating should be stopped.
5.Place the heated ring on the flywheel. Tap on the
ring with a soft drift and a hammer.
3.Brush clean the mating surface with a wire brush.
4.Heat up the new ring with a welding flame. Heat
uniformly. Observe care to avoid overheating, and
loss of temper.
54
6.Clean the mating surfaces between crankshaft
and flywheel carefully.
7.Inspect, and where appropriate replace the sealing ring for the crankshaft.
8.Fit the flywheel as per the previous markings.
Tightening torque: 175 Nm (130 lbf.ft).
Page 57
Repairs
Flywheel, inspection
Special tools: 9989876, 9999696
1.Place the dial indicator with the tip to the flywheel.
NOTE! If the flywheel casing is manufactured in aluminium the magnetic fixture must be placed in another
position.
2.Turn round the flywheel and read off the maximum and minimum valves. The warp must not
exceed 0.16 mm (0.0063") for a measurement radius of 150 mm (5.906"). If the warp is more than
this, remove the flywheel and examine if there is
dirt or irregularities between the flywheel and
crankshaft flange.
2.Place the magnetic fixture on the flywheel and
set the dial indictor tip to the inner edge of the flywheel casing. Turn round the flywheel and read
off the dial indicator.
The measurement of the centring in relation to the
flywheel must not exceed 0.25 mm (0.0098"). If
one of the measured values as per item 1 and 2
should exceed the maximum value the mating
surface of the flywheel casing to the cylinder
block should be inspected.
Flywheel casing, removing/assembly
Special tools: 9989876, 9999696
1.Place the magnetic fixture on the flywheel and
place the dial indicator’s tip to the back edge of
the flywheel casing (see figure). Turn round and
calculate the difference between the maximum
and minimum valves. Move the magnetic fixture
to the diametrically opposite side of the flywheel
and repeat the measurement. The difference between these two measurements must not exceed
0.15 mm (0.0060").
Flywheel casing, removing/assembly
(Removed flywheel)
1.Remove the flywheel casing from the cylinder
block.
2.Clean off sealant from the cylinder block and flywheel casing.
3.Apply a uniform 2 mm (0.08") thick string of seal-
ant, part No. 1161231-4, as per the diagram, on
the flywheel casing.
4.Fit the flywheel casing on the cylinder block within 20 minutes. Tightening torque: 140 Nm (103
lbf.ft).
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