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SINGER
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4314
User Manual
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Table of contents
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SINGER 4314 User Manual

Copyright © 1985 T. S. Co All rights reserved throughout the world
CONTENTS
.....
Page
, 24
Chapter 1. Getting to Know Your Machine........................................................................................................................... 2
Principal Parts........................................................................................................................................................2
Accessories............................................................................................................................................................3
Chapter 2. Getting Ready to Sew...........................................................................................................................................4
Choosing and Changing Accessories................................................................................................................ 4
Fabric Weight Table........................................................................................................................................ 6
Needle-Fabric Combinations..............................................................................................................................10
Operating the Machine........................................................................................................................................10
The Bobbin Thread..............................................................................................................................................11
Winding the Bobbin • Threading the Bobbin Case
Threading the Machine........................................................................................................................................13
Raising the Bobbin Thread
Chapter 3. Straight Stitching
Adjusting Machine Stitch to Suit Your Fabric...................................................................................................15
Setting Selectors • Regulating Presser Foot Pressure •
Adjusting Stitch Length • Needle-Thread Tension
Sewing a Seam.....................................................................................................................................................17
Keeping-the Seam Straight
Applications ....................................................................................................................................................... 18
Zipper Insertion • Darning ■
Chapter 4. Basic Zig-Zag Stitching..................................................................................................................................... 19
Adjusting Machine to Suit Your Fabric........................................................................................................19
How to Set Selectors • Pattern Group Selector •
Needle Position Selector • Stitch Width Selector • Adjusting Needle Tension •
Adjusting Stitch Length • Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure
Satin Stitching.....................................................................................................................................................21
Applications .........................................................................................................................................................22
Appliqué • Lingerie Seams • Zig-Zag Seam Finishes
Chapter 5. Machine Stitch Patterns..................................................................................................................................... .24
Setting Selectors . . . •..............................................................................................................................
Selecting a Pattern Group • Adjusting Width of the Design • Adjusting Stitch Placement • Adjusting Stitch Length • Adjusting Stitch Balance
Adjusting Stitches to Suit Stretch Fabrics .
Guiding and Supporting Fabric • Adjusting Pressure
Stitch Pattern Chart............................................................................................................................................ 28
Applications ........................................................................................................................................................ 29
Blindstitch............................................................................................................................................................ 29
Hems
Multi Stitch Zig-Zag
Bar Tacks • Mending a Tear
Honeycomb Stitch...............................................................................................................................................31
Attaching Elastic
Chapter 6. Buttonholes and Buttons.....................................................................................................................................32
Four-Step Buttonholing...................................................................................................................................... 32
Changing Stitch Density
Buttons................................................................................................................................................................. 34
Chapter 7. Twin-Needle Stitching...........................................................................................................................................35
Chapter 8. Free-Arm Sewing................................................................................................................................................. 36
Chapter 9. Performance Checklist........................................................................................................................................ 37
Chapter 10. Caring for Your Machine......................................................................................................................... 38
Index ............................................................................................................................................................................................40
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principal parts
1. Pattern Group Selector
2. Stitch Width Selector
3. Bobbin Winder Tension
4. Take-up Lever
5. Pressure Dial
6. Needle Clamp
7. Thread Cutter
8. Presser Foot Lifter
9. Thread Guides
10. General Purpose Presser
11. Tension Dial
12. Sewing Light
13. Extension Bed
14. General Purpose Needle
16. Bobbin Case Holder
17. Transparent Bobbin
18. Slide Plate
19. Stitch Length Selector
and Buttonhole Dial
20. Reverse Stitch Push
Button
21. Power and Light Switch
22. Electrical Connections
and Speed Controller
23. Machine Plug Receptacle
24. Needle Position Selector
25. Stitch Balance Control
26. Hand Wheel Knob
27. Hand Wheel
28. Bobbin Winder Spindle
29. Telescopic Spool Pin and
30. Carrying Handle
accessories
The accessories that come with your sewing machine are designed to help you do many kinds of sewing easily.
1. Transparent Bobbins (No. 172336).
2. Needles
• Style 2020 in your machine when deliver ed is for general sewing.
• Style 2045 is used for sewing knits, stretch fabrics and elastic.
• Style 2025 for twin-needle decorative stitching on woven and knit fabrics.
3. Buttonhole Foot is used to make bar tack
buttonholes qf any length in four steps.
4. Special Purpose Foot. Used for all kinds
of decorative zig-zag stitching.
5. Zipper Foot for inserting zippers and stitch
ing corded seams.
6. General Purpose Foot on your machine
when delivered, is used for all utility sew ing, with either straight or zig-zag stitching.
7. General Purpose Needle Plate on your
machine when delivered is used with all presser feet.
8. Snap-In Feed Cover for button sewing and
free-motion work.
9. Spool Pin Extension used for tubes of
thread.
10. Blindstitch Hem Guide. Use this with the
general purpose foot to position and guide the hem.
11. Detachable Spool Pin for decorative twin-
needle stitching and two-thread topstitch­ing.
12. Felt to help thread unwind smoothly.

Chapter 2. Getting Ready to Sew

choosing and changing accessories
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
• Raise needle to its highest point by turning
the hand wheel toward you. Loosen needle clamp screw A and remove the needle.
• Insert new needle up into clamp B as far
as it will go, with the flat side of the needle to the back.
• Tighten needle clamp screw.
CHANGING PRESSER FEET
Snap-on Presser Feet
The presser feet furnished with your machine Raise needle to highest position by turning the snap on and off a common shank. hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot.
To Remove and Replace Foot
Flat Side to Back
la. Press toe of presser foot upward as far as 1b. Then snap down to remove,
it will go.
2. Centre the new presser foot under the shank 3. Press presser foot screw down firmly until
C and lower the presser foot lifter so that foot snaps into place,
the shank fits over the presser foot pin.
REMOVING AND REPLACING NEEDLE
PLATE
• Raise presser foot.
• Raise needle to highest position.
• Open slide plate. Place thumb under right side of needle plate, lift it up and withdraw it to right.
• Replace needle plate under clamping pin A, push it gently to the left and press down until it snaps into place.
ATTACHING SNAP-IN FEED COVER
• Raise presser foot.
• Raise needle to highest position by turning
hand wheel toward you. Open slide plate.
® Slide snap-in feed cover away, from you
over needle plate until points B and C are positioned directly over holes in needle plate as illustrated. Snap in point B. Then push point C in toward point B until it snaps into place. Close slide plate. To remove, open
slide plate then simply lift up front edge of feed cover.
ATTACHING BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE
• Raise presser foot, loosen presser foot screw with a coin and slip blindstitch hem
guide between screw and shank of the
general purpose foot.
• Be sure underside of the guide clears the slide plate and front of foot.
® Tighten scpew with a coin.
FABRIC WEIGHT TABLE
There are many types of fabrics around the world, each manufactured with a specific fibre and weight. The fabric below have been classified according to weight to give a small sample of what is available for purchase.
FIBRE
AND
FILMY
CONSTRUCTION
SILK (Woven)
Chiffon, Organza, Tulle
Net, Lace, Ninon
Velvet, Crepe de Chine. Shantung, Faille
(Knit)
RAYON (Woven)
(Knit)
COTTON (Woven)
(Knit)
WOOL
(Woven) (Knit)
SYNTHETiC (Woven)
(Knit)
Tulle
Voile, Tulle
Chiffon, Organza, Tulle
Net, Lace
Net, Lace
Net, Lace, Ninon, Crepe de Chine
Jersey
Velvet, Taffeta, Satin
Ciré
Challis, Organdy, Muslin, Batiste, Dimity,
Lawn, Percale, Eyelet, Gingham, Piqué, Poplin
Jersey
Cashmere, Flannel, Mohair, Felt, Crepe
Jersey
Crepe, Velvet, Taffeta, Satin
Raschel, Single Knit, Sweater Knit, Bonded Knit, Tricot, Ciré
SYNTHETIC BLENDS (Woven)
(Knit)
LEATHER
PLASTiC
VINYLS
Voile
Plastic Film Plastic Film
Broadcloth, Batiste, Eyelet, Gingham, Poplin
Single Knit
Kidskin, Patent, Chamois, Imitation­Leathers & Suedes, Leather, Suede
Refer to this table to determine the weight and type of fabric you will be using in order to
select the correct needle and thread combination.
For correct needle and thread combination for your fabric, refer to the Fabric, Thread and
Needle Table on the following page.
MEDIUM
Velvet. Crepe de Chine, Shantung, Suiting. Brocade
Velvet. Taffeta, Satin, Crepe
Velveteen, Corduroy, Velvet, Fleece.
Velour, Terry. Chintz
Stretch Velours' , Stretch Terry ■
¿i Usually contain some synthetic fibres also.
Suiting, Flannel, Gabardine, Felt, Serge. Mohair
Jersey
Velvet, Crepe, Taffeta. Satin, Gabardine
HEAVY
Brocade. Taffeta. Satin, Crepe
Corduroy. Denim. Ticking, Canvas,
Linen, Drapery Fabric, Burlap
Suiting, Tweed, Duffle
VERY HEAVY
Denim, Duck, Canvas, Sailcloth, Upholstery Fabric
Coating, Blanketing
Jacquard. Double Knit. Sweater Knit. Bonded Knit, Tricot. Spandex. Stretch Terry, Stretch Velour, Deep Pile. Fake Furs
Linen Type. Poplin, Corduroy, Gabardine
Terry Knit
Patent. Imitation-Leathers & Suedes, Leather. Suede, Reptile
Bonded Vinyl (Knit Back), Patent, Embossed, Printed
Double Knit, Helenca, Fake Furs
Denim, Gabardine, Drapery Fabric
Double Knit
Buckskin, Calfskin, Suede, Reptile Upholstery Leather
Upholstery Vinyl
Upholstery Vinyl
FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE
Choosing the correct needle and thread for your fabric is of utmost importance. Correct choice will make the difference in the wear and appearance of your new garment. The Fabric Weight Table on the previous page, and the Fabric, Thread and Needle Table below are practical guides
to needle and thread selection. Refer to them before starting a sewing project. Be sure
to use the same size and type of thread in both needle and bobbin.
To select the correct needle and thread for your fabric, first refer to the Fabric Weight Table
to determine the weight and type of the material you are using. Next, refer to the Fabric Thread and Needle Table.
SILK
RAYON
COTTON
WOOL
SYNTHETIC
SYNTHETIC BLENDS
LEATHER
PLASTIC
VINYLS
Silk
Fine Fine
Mercerized
Silk
Fine Fine
Mercerized
Cotton
Fine Fine
Mercerized
Fine Synthetic
Fine
Synthetic
2020-9/70
2020-9/70
2020-9/70
2020-9/70
2020-9/70
Fine
Silk
Fine
Mercerized
Fine
Silk
Fine
Mercerized
Fine
Cotton
Fine
Mercerized
Fine
Silk Mercerized
Fine
Fine Synthetic
Fine Synthetic
2020-9/70
2020-9/70
2020-9/70
2020-11 /80
2020-9/70
2020-9/70 Fine Synthetic
Fine Silk Fine Mercerized
Fine Silk Fine Mercerized
Medium Cotton Med. Mercerized
Fine Silk Fine Mercerized
Fine Synthetic 2045-11/80
Med. Mercerized Med. Synthetic 2032-11/80
Fine Mercerized Fine Synthetic 2020-11/80
Fine Mercerized Fine Synthetic 2020-11/80
2020-11/80
2020-11/80
2020-11/80
2020-11/80
2045-11/80
Find the fabric you are using in Type of Fabric column at left (silk, rayon, etc.). Then locate
the fabric weight column (filmy, sheer, etc.) for your fabric at top of table. Read across from
Type of Fabric column to correct weight of fabric column. There, the correct thread and needle choice for your fabric will be found.
Example: If you are sewing a medium weight wool, find wool in Type of Fabric column. Read across to Medium (weight) column and you will see that a medium silk or mercerized thread and a size 2020-14 needle are to be used.
You should follow the recommendations in this instruction book and on the needle package
for correct style and size of needle for different types and weights of fabric.
MEDIUM
THREADS
Medium Medium
Medium Medium
Medium Medium
Medium Medium
Medium Synthetic 2045-14/90
Medium Synthetic
Medium Medium
Medium Medium
Silk Mercerized 2020-11 /80
Synthetic Mercerized 2020-11/80
Cotton Mercerized
Silk Mercerized
Mercerized Synthetic
Mercerized Synthetic
NEEDLES
2020-14/90
2020-14/90 Heavy Mercerized 2020-16/100
2045-14/90 Heavy Synthetic
2032-14/90
2020-11./80
HEAVY
THREADS NEEDLES
Heavy Silk Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Synthetic Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Cotton Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Synthetic
Heavy Mercerized Heavy Synthetic
Medium Mercerized Medium Synthetic
VERY HEAVY
THREADS
2020-14/90 Heavy Silk
2020-14/90
2020-16/100
2045-16/100 Heavy Synthetic
2045-16/100 Heavy Synthetic
2032-16/100
2020-14/90
Heavy Synthetic Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Cotton Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Mercerized Heavy Synthetic
Heavy Mercerized Heavy Synthetic
NEEDLES ;
2020-14/90
2020-14/90
2020-18/110
2020-16/100
2020-16/100
or 18/110
2020-16/100 or 18/110
2032-18 /110
2020-16/100
Medium Medium
Mercerized Synthetic
2020-11/80
Medium Mercerized
Medium Synthetic
2020-14/90
Heavy Mercerized Heavy Synthetic
2020-16/100
needle-fabric combinations
Correct needle selection is closely related to stitch quality and appearance. Damaged fabric is almost always caused by a needle that is bent, burred for the fabric and thread you are using.
The three types of needles most commonly used
are the regular, ball point, and wedge. To obtain good results, the correct size and type of needle for the fabric and thread you are using must be chosen. Refer to the Fabric, Thread and Needle Table, page 8.
or that is an inappropriate style
operating the machine
CONNECTING MACHINE
• Before plugging in your machine, be sure the electrical information on the side of the
machine A, below the hand wheel agrees
with the range marked on your electrical
meter.
• Connect plug B to machine and plug C to
your socket outlet.
• To turn the machine and light on or off,
press switch as shown.
Result of Using a Bent Needle
• To run the machine and control speed,
press the speed controller D with your foot. The harder you press, the faster the ma chine will sew.
CAUTION: Disconnect the power line plug from the socket outlet when changing needles, feet or needle plates or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the speed controller.
the bobbin thread
Your sewing machine uses two threads to form a stitch. The upper thread comes from the
spool and is threaded through the eye of the needle. The lower thread comes from the bob bin. Wind the bobbin before threading the machine.
WINDING THE BOBBIN
Preparation Steps
1. Raise the presser foot and turn hand wheel
toward you until needle is in highest po
sition.
2. Loosen hand wheel knob A by turning it to
ward you with the right hand while holding
hand wheel with the left hand.
3. Open slide plate and lift out bobbin.
4. Place spool pin felt on pin.
Winding Steps
Place thread spool on spool pin with thread retaining slit B on top. (Break paper at the end of spool if necessary). If you are using a tube of thread affix spool pin extension to spool pin to ensure even flow of thread.
Lead thread around bobbin winder tension disc C and through small hole in bobbin from inside out.
Place bobbin on spindle and push bobbin to right to engage bobbin winder.
• Hold thread end as shown and start the ma chine. Cut off thread end aftei a few coils have been wound.
• When required amount of thread has been
wound (winding will stop when bobbin is full), stop the machine and cut connecting thread.
• Push bobbin to left and remove bobbin from spindle.
• Hold hand wheel and tighten hand wheel knob.
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
1. Hold bobbin so that thread unwinds in the direction shown, and put bobbin into bobbin case.
2. Pull thread into notch A, draw it back under the tension spring and back into slot B.
12
3. Draw approximately 10 cm (4 inches) of thread across the bobbin.
4. Close slide plate allowing thread to enter slot between the needle plate and slide plate.
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