14
U46B
Operator’s
Guide
14U46B
PREFACE
Thank you for your purchase of this sewing machine.
This machine will provide you with excellent performance in sewing from light to heavy material (lawn to
denim). Please refer to this booklet for proper use and optimum service.
To get the most out of your sewing machine, read the entire operator’s manual before attempting to
operate the machine. Then familiarize yourself with the machine by following the operator’s manual page
by page.
Safety Cautions:
• Be sure that the electrical voltage of the socket outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated
voltage of the motor.
• Disconnect the power-line plug from the socket outlet when changing needles, presser foot or
throat plate, or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of start
ing the machine by accidentally pressing the speed controller.
• Do not pull the fabric while you are stitching as this may deflect the needle, causing it to break.
• Before cleaning your machine, disconnect the power-line plug from the socket outlet.
• Do not attempt to adjust the motor belt. Contact your nearest Service Center should any
adjustment be required.
• Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place
anything on top of it.
• When sewing closely watch the area being sewn to avoid injuries from needles and knives.
• Use only the handle to lift and move the machine.
To ensure that you are always provided with the most modern sewing capabilities, the manufacturer
reserves the right to change the appearance, design or accessories of this sewing machine when considered
necessary without notification or obligation.
i: A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY
Copyright© 1989SINGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY
All Rights Reserved Throughout The World
CONTENTS
Selection of stitches ...........................................................................................................................2
1.
Handy reference chart.........................................................................................................................4
2.
Principal parts.................................................................................................................................... 5
3.
Preparation for sewing........................................................................................................................6
4.
Preparation for threading................................................................................................................... 7
5.
• Setting up the thread guide holder................................................................................................ 7
• How to insert the needles............................................................................................................. 7
• How to open looper cover ............................................................................................................8
• How to remove cylinder cover
• How to thread the machine ......................................................................................................... 8
• How to change threads
• Chain off and test sew
How to sew two-thread overlock and overedge............................................................................... 10
6.
How to sew three-thread standard overlock, flatlock and wrapped edge overlock
7.
How to sew three-thread ultra-stretch mock safety stitch
8.
How to sew four-thread ultra-stretch mock safety stitch................................................................. 20
9.
How to adjust stitch length.............................................................................................................. 21
10.
How to adjust overedge seam width................................................................................................ 21
11.
How to do roUed hemming............................................................................................................. 22
12.
Free arm sewing (tubular work)....................................................................................................... 25
13.
Seam guide lines.............................................................................................................................. 25
14.
Edge guide
15.
Three-thread flatlock stitch ............................................................................................................. 26
16.
Two-thread flatlock stitch ............................................................................................................... 26
17.
Two or three-thread blindstitching.................................................................................................. 27
18.
Braiding by chaining-off.................................................................................................................. 27
19.
Two or three-thread pin tucking...................................................................................................... 28
20.
Applying elastic............................................................................................................................... 28
21.
Turning square comers .................................................................................................................... 29
22.
How to replace stationary knife....................................................................................................... 30
23.
How to exchange light bulb ............................................................................................................ 30
24.
How to adjust presser foot pressure................................................................................................. 30
25.
Reasons for poor stitches and how to make adjustment
26.
Relationship between cloth, thread and needle
27.
Accessories...................................................................................................................................... 33
28.
Specification.................................................................................................................................... 33
29.
............................................................................
............................,....................................................................................
...
................................................................................................ 8
.....
............................................................................................................9
........................
...............................................................
,........................................................ 25
.........
......................................................
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Page
9
15
19
31
32
1. Selection of stitches
This machine is capable of producing various types of stitches according to the combination of needle
positions, threading methods, tension adjustment and the use of convertible right looper/spreader.
Stitch Type
(J) Two-Thread
Wrapped Edge
Overlock
(D Two-Thread
Overedge
@ Three-Thread
Overlock
1-needle 2-thread stitch is used for
seaming lightweight or stretch fabrics.
Also ideal for rolled hemming. Also,
a 3.5mm and 5.7mm overlock seam
width can be obtained by changing the
needle position.*
1-needle 2-thread stitch is used for
overedging common fabrics. It is also
ideal for flatlock (butted or lapped)
seams and blind hemming. Also, a
3.5mm and 5.7mm overedge seam
width can be obtained by changing the
needle position.*
1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for
overedging and seaming on common
fabrics. Also, a 3.5mm and 5.7mm
overlook seam width can be obtained
by changing the needle position.*
Reference
Pages
10
11
12
13
10
11
12
14
15
16
d) Three-Thread
Flatlock
(5) Three-Thread
Wrapped Edge
Overlock
(6) Three-Thread
Ultra-Stretch
Mock
Safety Stitch
1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for
butted or lapped seams and ornamental
stitching with decorative thread. Also,
a 3.5mm and 5.7mm flatlock width
can be obtained by changing the needle
position.*
1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for
sewing narrow rolled hems or
ornamental edges. Also, a 3.5mm and
5.7mm wrapped overlook seam width
can be obtained by changing the needle
position.*
2-needle 3-thread stitch which is
ideal for lightweight, extremely
stretchy fabrics such as tricot and
spandex.
15
17
15
18
19
Stitch Type
Reference
Pages
(7) Four-Thread
Ultra-Stretch
Mock
Safety Stitch
^Depending on the needle position used, this machine can sew 2-thread and 3-thread standard width 3.5mm overedge
and a 5.7mm wide overedge seams.
\ stretchy fabrics such as double knits
’ ■ ' and swim wear.
2-needle 4-thread stitch which is
ideal for medium to heavy weight
20
Also, for overedging heavyweight fabrics, the seam width can be increased still more by adjusting the
position of stationary knife holder. (See page 21)
Overedge width
Needle used
Needle thread
tension dial
3.5mm
Right needle
Green
5.7mm
Left needle
Blue
o m
w o
2. Handy reference chart
Stitch Type
Needle
Positions
Tension Dial: Numbers shown are average
settings on medium weight fabric with
standard #80 Polyester thread
Blue Green Orange Yellow
Right Looper or
Spreader
(T) Two-Thread
Wrapped Edge
Overlock
(2) Two-Thread
Overedge
Thread-Thread
Overlock
(4) Three-Thread
Flati ock
@ Three-Thread
Wrapped Edge
Overlock
3.5mm
5.7mm
3.5mm
5.7mm
3.5mm
5.7mm
3.5mm
5.7mm
3.5mm
O
O
2.0
O
O
0.5
O
O
2.0
O
O
0.5
O
2.0 1.0
0.5 Spreader
1.0 5.5
3.0
2.0
0.5
3.0 0.5
2.5
1.5
5.0 8.5
3.5
2.0
1.0
8.0 Looper
7.5
Spreader
Spreader
Spreader
Looper
Looper
Looper
Looper
(6) Three-Thread
Ultra-Stretch
Mock
Safety Stitch
(7) Four-Thread
Ultra-Stre1ich
Mock
Safety Stitch
5.7mm
O
2.5 0.5
4.0
2.0
1.5
1.5 1.5
8.5
1.0
1.5 Looper
Looper
Spreader
The thread tensions become tighter as the dials are turned to higher numbers. This is indicated through
out the manual. (+) symbol means tighter tension or higher number and (—) means looser tension or
lower number. The tension settings shown on this page as well as throughout the operator’s manual
are suggested guides. Adjust thread tensions to suit the fabric and size of thread used. For best results
make tension adjustments in small increments of no greater than half a number at a time.
3. Principal parts
Left hand looper thread tension dial
Right hand looper thread tension dial
Pressure regulating screw
Right needle thread tension dial
Left needle thread tension dial
Convertible bed plate
Throat plate
Free arm
Thread guide holder-
Handle
Spool pin
Spool stand
Looper cover
• Machine with looper cover opened
Motor cover
Hand wheel
Stitch length dial
Power switch
(used also for light switch)
4. Preparation for sewing
Connect the machine plug to the electrical receptacle of your machine and the power line plug to the wall
receptacle.
To run the machine and control the speed, press the speed controller. The harder you press, the faster the
machine will sew. To stop the machine from sewing, remove your foot from the speed controller.
Caution:
• Be sure that the electrical voltage of the socket outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage
of the motor.
• Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything
on top of it when not in use.
• Disconnect the power-line plug from the socket outlet when changing needles, presser feet or throat
plates, or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine
by accidentally pressing the speed controller.
• Before cleaning your machine, disconnect the power-line plug from the socket outlet.
5. Preparation for threading
• Setting up the thread guide holder
Extend the thread guide holder as far as possible
and set the thread guides so that they are located
right above the spool pins.
Place the thread on the spool stand as sho^vn
above.
• How to insert the needles
Use Singer needles Cat. No. 2054 available in sizes #14 and (#10)
To remove the needles:
• Be sure the power line plug is disconnected from the wall receptacle.
• Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is at its highest
position. Loosen the needle set screw with a screwdriver and remove
needles.
To replace the needle:
• Insert the needles into the needle bar hole as far as they will go with
flat surface to the rear and securely tighten the needle set screw.
Remove
Flat surface to the rear
Note: When both the left and right needles are inserted, the left needle will be slightly higher than
the right.
Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing.
(1) Push the cover to the right as
far as it will go and
(2) Pull cover down toward you.
• How to remove cylinder cover
0 While pulling the cylinder cover to the left,
(2) Lift cover upward and off the machine.
* Do not hold the cylinder cover when lifting or carrying the machine.
• How to thread the machine
To replace cover
(T) Place tab A under the throat plate.
(2) Press cover downward to the right.
To thread the machine correctly, simply follow the steps on the following pages making reference to the
threading chart on the inner side of the looper cover showing the threading paths in different colors.
• How to change threads
When you wish to change the left needle
thread, right needle thread, left looper
thread or right looper thread with a different
thread, the following steps will make the
changing convenient.
(1) Cut the thread near the spool and tie
the end to the thread you wish to
change to as shown in figure at right.
(2) Raise presser foot.
(3) Note tension reference numbers.
(4) Turn the tension dials down toward the
(—) mark until the dial stops and draw
the thread out so that the tie knot of
the threads extend about 5 cm (2
inches) from the presser foot. When
drawing needle thread through the
needle eye, stop the tie knot before the
needle eye, cut the thread and pass it
through the needle eye.
(5) Return tension dials to reference num
bers.
When the machine is completely threaded,
turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 turns
while holding the 4 threads applying a slight
tension as shown in figure at left.
After chaining off, make a test stitch on a
sample of your fabric so that you can adjust
the thread tensions correctly.
After completing the seam, chain off approx.
5 cm (2 inches) as shown in figure at left and
cut thread with scissors.
6. How to sew two-thread overlook and overedge
The 2-thread overlook and overedge is sewn with one needle, one looper and a spreader.
(1) Convert right looper into spreader
The right looper used in this machine can be easily converted into spreader.
1. Remove right looper thread. (Orange thread path)
2. With the small screwdriver, turn spreader conversion screw
clockwise as far as it will easily turn. Do not over turn.
The right looper will now serve as a spreader.
Spreader conversion screw
• Converting spreader
back to right looper
1. With the small screwdriver, turn spreader conversion screw
counterclockwise as far as it will easily turn. Do not over turn.
The right looper will now serve its purpose of looper.
2. Thread the right looper.
10
(2) Thread the left looper (yellow path)
Remove cylinder cover and thread left looper in the order 0 to
path) (See page 8 for cylinder cover removal)
While holding thread with finger, wrap
thread around tension disk clockwise
till caught in hook and pull thread
down to make certain it is properly
located in between the tension discs.
shown below. (Yellow thread
Turn hand wheel toward you
until left looper is at left as far
as it will go and thread the
looper thread hole (9) from left
to right. (Use tweezers provided
in your accessory set).
Turn hand wheel toward you
until the looper is at right as far
as it will go passing the thread
under the throat plate, then
using the tweezers, thread the
looper thread hole (f^ from
front to back.
Place the thread over the top of the right looper and
hold the thread while initially sewing.
1 1
(3a) Thread the right needle for standard 3.5mm stitch width
o
• To thread the right needle
Thread right needle thread in the order 0 to (j5> as shown. (Green thread path) For easy thread
ing of needle (i^ , set movable knife in non-operating position.
While holding thread with
finger wrap thread around
tension disk clockwise till
caught in hook and pull
thread down to mark cert
ain it is properly locat
ed in between the tension
discs.
• Lower needle bar when
threading (0 and (j).
• Use tweezers to thread
needle eye (j|).
• Draw about 5cm (2
inches) of thread from
needle eye.
Or (3b) Thread the left needle for 5.7mm width (blue path)(page 12)
O
Thread left needle thread in the order 0 to (9) as shown. (Blue thread path) For easy threading
of needle (9), set movable knife in non-operating position. (See page 21 for setting movable knife
to non-operating position)
While holding thread with
finger wrap thread around
tension disk clockwise till
caught in hook and pull
thread down to mark cert
ain it is properly locat
ed in between the tension
discs.
• Lower needle bar when
threading (|) and (6).
• Use tweezers to thread
needle eye (9).
• Draw about 5cm (2
inches) of thread from
needle eye.
(4) Correct thread tensions for 2-thread wrapped edge overlook.
Be sure the threads are correctly threaded otherwise
proper tension cannot be obtained.
Set each tension dial to settings shown below and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
When using right needle for sewing normal width overedge seams, be sure to remove left needle.
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight 2.5
Heavy weight
Blue
Tension Dial
Green Orange Yellow
2.0
3.5
Spreader
Spreader
Spreader
1.0
1.0
1.5
When using left needle for sewing wide
overedge seams, be sure to remove right
needle.
2.5
3.0
4.0
Tension Dial
Green Orange
Spreader
Spreader
Spreader 0.5
Y ellow
0.5
0.5
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Blue
Adjust thread tensions to suit your fabric making reference to table below. Make adjustments in
increments of no greater than half a number at a time.
^ When looper thread is too tight or needle
thread is too loose
When looper thread is too loose
mum
Meedle thread \
Left looper
thread
Topside Underside
Turn looper thread tension dial (yellow)
toward the (—) mark.
Or, turn needle thread tension dial (blue
or green) toward the (+) mark.
Needle thread \
\
Left looper
thread
Topside Underside
Turn looper thread tension dial (yellow)
toward the (+) mark.
J
13
(5) Correct thread tensions for 2-thread overedge
Be sure the threads are correctly threaded otherwise
proper tension cannot be obtained.
Set each tension dial to settings shown below and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
• When using right needle for sewing normal width overedge seams, be sure to remove left needle.
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Blue
Green
0.5
1.0
1.5
Y ellow
Orange
Spreader
Spreader
5.5
5.5
Spreader 6.5
When using left needle for sewing wide
overedge seams, bu sure to remove right
needle.
Tension Dial
0.5
0.5
1.0
Tension Dial
Green
Yellow
Orange
Spreader
3.0
Spreader 3.0
Spreader
4.0
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Blue
Adjust thread tensions to suit your fabric making reference to table below. Make adjustments in
increments of no greater than half a number at a time.
^ When looper thread lies on the
underside of fabric on the top
When looper thread appears ^
14
Left looper thread \
Topside Underside
Turn looper thread tension dial (yellow)
toward the (+) mark.
Or, turn needle thread tension dial (blue
or green) toward the (—) mark.
1
Needle thread
Needle thread
Left looper
thread
Topside Underside
Turn looper thread tension dial (yellow)
toward the (—) mark.
Or, turn needle thread tension dial (blue
or green) toward the (+) mark. ^
7. How to sew three-thread standard overlook, flatlock and
wrapped edge overlook
The 3-thread standard overlook, flatlock and wrapped edge is sewn with one needle and two loopers.
(1) Thread the right looper.
Open looper cover. Thread the right looper in the order 0 to (|) as indicated in the figure below,
(orange thread path)
While holding thread with finger, pass it
between the tension discs and pull thread
down to make certain it is properly
located in between the tension discs.
Use tweezers provided in the accessory set when
threading looper thread hole (9) .
Draw about 5cm (2 inches) of thread from the
looper thread hole.
(2) Thread the left looper (yellow path) (see page 11)
(3a) Thread the right overedge needle for 3.5mm width (green path)
Or (3b) Thread the left overedge needle for 5.7mm width (blue path)
o
o
(see page 12)
(see page 12)
15
(4) Correct thread tensions for 3-thread standard overlook.
Be sur^ the threads are correctly threaded otherwise
proper tension cannot be obtained.
Set each tension dial to settings shown below and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
• When using right needle for sewing normal width overedge seams, be sure to remove left needle.
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Blue
Tension Dial
Green
1.5 2.0
2.0
2.0
Orange Y ellow
2.0
2.5
3.0
2.0
2.0
Right needle
thread tension
dial (green)
Left needle
thread tension
dial (blue)
Rightlooper
thread tension
dial (orange)
Left looper
thread tension
dial (yellow)
• When using left needle for sewing wide
overedge seams, bu sure to remove right
needle.
1.5
2.0
2.5
Tension Dial
Green
Orange Y ellow
1.0 1.5
1.0
1.5
1.0
2.0
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Blue
Adjust thread tensions to suit your fabric making reference to table below. Make adjustments in
increments of no greater than half a number at a time.
When right looper thread lies
on the underside of fabric.
When left looper thread
appears on the top.
Left looper thread
When needle thread is too
loose.
Needle thread
Bight 10^^^ Lett looper
Topside Underside
Turn right Ipoper thread ten
sion dial (orange) toward the
(+) mark.
Or, turn left looper thread
tension dial (yellow) toward
the (—) mark.
16
Right looper
thread
Needle
thread
Topside
Turn left looper thread ten
sion dial (yellow) toward the
(-t) mark.
Or, turn right looper thread
tension dial (orange) toward
the (—) mark.
Underside
Right looper
thread
Left looper
thread
Topside
Turn needle thread tension
dial (blue or green) toward
the {+) mark.
Needle
thread
Underside
(5) Correct thread tensions for 3-thread flatlock.
Be sure the threads are correctly threaded otherwise
proper tension cannot be obtained.
Set each tension dial to settings shown below and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
• When using right needle for sewing normal width overedge seams, be sure to remove left needle.
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Blue
Tension Dial
Green Orange
Yellow
0.5 5.0 8.0
0.5 5.0 8.5
1.0
6.0
9.0
When using left needle for sewing wide
overedge seams, bu sure to remove right
needle.
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Blue
0.5 3.0
0.5
0.5 3.0
Tension Dial
Green
Orange
3.5
Y ellow
8.0
8.0
8.0
Adjust thread tensions to suit your fabric making reference to table below. Make adjustments in
increments of no greater than half a number at a time.
When left looper thread is too
loose.
When right looper thread is
too loose.
When needle thread is too ^
loose.
Right looper
thread
Topside
Turn left looper thread ten
sion dial (yellow) toward the
(+) mark.
Or, needle thread tension dial
(blue or green) toward the (—)
mark.
Needle
thread
Left looper
thread
Right looper
thread
\
Topside
Turn right looper thread ten
sion dial (orange) toward the
(+) mark.
Or, turn needle thread tension
dial (blue or green) toward the
(—) mark.
Needle
thread
Left looper
thread
Underside
Right looper
thread
Topside
Turn needle thread tension
dial (blue or green) toward the
(-f-) mark.
Or, turn right looper thread
tension dial (orange) toward
the (—) mark.
. Underside
Needle
thread
Left looper
thread
____
\
j
17
(6) Correct thread tensions for 3-thread wrapped edge overlook.
Be sure the threads are correctly threaded otherwise
proper tension cannot be obtained.
Set each tension dial to settings shown below and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
• When using right needle for sewing normal width overedge seams, be sure to remove left needle.
Fabric
Blue
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight 3.0
Tension Dial
Green
2.0
3.0
Orange
0.5 7.5
0.5
0.5 7.5
Y ellow
7.5
• When using left needle for sewing wide
overedge seams, be sure to remove right
needle.
Fabric
Blue Green Orange Yellow
Light weight 2.0
Medium weight
Heavy weight
2.5 0.5
3.0 0.5 8.5
Tension Dial
0 7.5
8.5
Adjust thread tensions to suit your fabric making reference to table below. Make adjustments in
increments.of no greater than half a number at a time.
When right looper thread is too
loose.
When left looper thread is too
loose.
When needle thread is too
loose
Needle
thread
Right looper
thread
Topside
Turn right looper thread ten
sion dial (orange) toward the
(+) mark.
Underside
18
thread
looper
Needle
thread
thread
Topside
Turn left looper thread ten
sion dial (yellow) toward the
{+) mark.
Or, turn right looper thread
tension dial (orange) toward
the (—) mark.
1- rM
Left looper
thread
Underside
Right looper
thread
Topside
Turn needle thread tension
dial (blue or green) toward the
(+) mark.
Or, turn right looper thread
tension dial (orange) toward
the (—) mark.
Needle thread
Underside
thread
Ipoper
8. How to sew three-thread ultra-stretch mock safety stitch
The 3-thread ultra-stretch is sewn with two needles, one looper and a spreader.
(1) Convert right looper into spreader (see page 10)
(2) Thread left looper (yellow path) (see page 11)
(3) Thread right needle (green path) |
(4) Thread left needle (blue path) | • • (see page 12)
(5) Correct thread tensions for 3-thread ultra-stretch
Be sure the threads are correctly threaded otherwise
proper tension cannot be obtained.
Set each tension dial to setting shown below
and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Blue
2.5
3.0 1.5
4.5
Tension Dial
Green
1.5
2.5
Orange
Spreader
Spreader
Spreader
Yellow
1.0
1.0
1.0
Adjust thread tensions to suit your fabric making reference to table below. Make adjustments in
increments of no greater than half a number at a time.
When looper thread is too
loose.
Right needle thread
Left
looper
Topside
Turn looper thread tension
dial (yellow) toward the (+)
mark.
______________________
th read
Underside
When left needle thread is too
loose.
Right needle thread
Left needle
thread
Topside
Turn left needle thread ten
sion dial (blue) toward the (+)
mark.
Left
looper
thread
Underside
When right needle thread is
too loose.
Right needle thread
Left needle
thread
Topside
Turn right needle thread ten
sion dial (green) toward the
(+) mark.
Left
looper
thread
Underside
19
9. How to sew four-thread ultra-stretch mock safety stitch
The 4-thread ultra-stretch is sewn with two needles and two loopers.
(1) Thread right looper (orange path) (see page 15)
(2) Thread left looper (yellow) (see page 11)
(3) Thread right needle (green path) ]
(4) Thread left needle (blue path) j
(5) Correct thread tensions for 4-thread ultra-stretch
Be sure the threads are correctly threaded otherwise
proper tension cannot be obtained.
Set each tension dial to settings shown below
and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
(see page 12)
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Blue Green Orange Y ellow
1.5
2.0
2.5
Tension Dial
1.5
1.0 1.5
1.5
1.5 1.5
2.0
2.0
1.5
Adjust thread' tensions to suit your fabric making reference to table below. Make adjustments in
increments of no greater than half a number at a time.
When right looper thread lies on the underside
of fabric.
Right needle
thread Left needle
Turn right looper thread tension dial (orange)
toward the (+) mark.
Or, turn left looper thread tension dial
(yellow) toward the (—) mark.
Right needle
thread
thread \ Left looper
Topside Underside
When left needle thread tension is too loose.
Left needle
thread
Right looper thread
thread
Left looper
thread
Rightlooper
thread
When left looper thread appears on the top.
Rightlooper thread
Right needle
thread
Topside
Trun left looper thread tension dial (yellow)
toward the (+) mark.
Or, turn right looper thread tension dial
(orange) toward the (—) mark.
When right needle thread tension is too loose.
Rightlooper thread
Right needle
thread
Left needle
thread
X Left looper
\ th read
Underside
Left looper
thread
20
Topside
Turn left needle thread tension dial (blue)
toward the (+) mark.
Underside
Topside
Turn right needle thread tension dial (green)
toward the (+) mark.
Underside
10. How to adjust stitch length
The stitch length dial on this machine is pre-set to 3mm for
normal sewing condition. Since the adjustment can be made
easily, adjust the stitch length to 4mm when sewing heavy weight
fabrics such as quilting and to 2mm when sewing light weight
fabrics such as lining fabric, crepe, etc. and you will obtain ex
cellent seams without puckering.
11. How to adjust overedge seam width
Overedge seam width of this machine is set to 3.5 mm for normal sewing with right needle and 5.7 mm
with left needle however it can be increased up to 5 mm for overedge heavy weight fabrics with right needle
and 7.2 mm with left needle as instructed below.
(1) Before making the adjustment, be sure that the power line plug is disconnected from the wall re
ceptacle.
(2) Open the looper cover. (See page 8).
(3) Turn the hand wheel toward you, lower the movable knife as far as it will go and set it in the non
operating position as shown in figure below.
(4) Remove the cylinder cover. (See page 8).
Push the movable knife holder to the right
as far as it will go and turn the knob in the
direction shown.
(5) Loosen the 2 stationary knife holder set screws
(6) Replace the cylinder cover. (See page 8)
(7) Return the movable knife to its original position.
(8) Test Sew
As shown above, the movable knife
will be in a non-operating position.
with the hex-head wrench provided in the acces
sories, move the stationary knife holder to the
right or left and tighten the set screw.
(When a wider seam is desired, move the holder to
the right and when a narrower seam is desired,
move the holder to the left but not narrower
than 3.5mm mark on throat plate).
Be sure to align the cutting edge of the stationary
knife level with the top surface of the throat plate.
21
12. How to do rolled hemming
This machine can do the 2 types of standard and right looper thread wrapped rolled hem stitching with a
seam width of 1.5mm.
Always remove the left needle
1. Fabric, needle, thread and stitch length
Fabric; Light to medium weight (See page 32)
• Rolled hemming is done by rolling the fabric and overedging (seam width 1.5mm), and is not
suited for heavy or stiff fabrics.
Needle: Singer Cat. No. 2054 (#10), #14.
Thread; A variety of thread combinations can be used for rolled hemming.
Stitch length adjustment (See page 21)
For rolled hemming, set the stitch length dial to “2” or “F” and a fíne seam
can be obtained.
o
2. How to exchange throat plate
A throat plate for rolled hem stitching has been furnished in the accessories for
this machine. By exchanging the ordinary overedge throat plate on the machine
with a rolled hemming throat plate by the following procedure, the machine can
be used for rolled hem stitching.
______
Throat plate screw
1. First of all, always disconnect the power line plug from
the receptacle.
2. Turn the hand wheel towards you until the needle is at
its highest point.
3. Lift the presser foot.
4. Remove the cylinder cover. (See page 8)
5. Unscrew the throat plate screw (1) and remove the throat
plate.
6. Install the rolled hemming throat plate and replace the
screw (1).
7. Replace the cylinder cover (see page 8).
Note: • When replacing the throat plate, be careful that the thread is not
caught between the throat plate and machine.
• Set seam width to the “M” mark on the rolled hemming throat plate.
• To set seam width, align left edge of stationary knife holder with the
“M” mark on the rolled hemming throat plate.
Be sure the stationary knife is not in contact with the edge of throat
plate.
©
Rolled hemming
throat plate
Stationary knife
holder
22
3. How to adjust thread tensions
(1) 1-needle 3-thread
• Standard rolled hem stitching
Right looper thread wrapped rolled hem stitching (rolled hem variation).
• Correct thread tension
Needle thread
(green dial)
Right looper
thread
(orange dial)
Topside
Needle thread
(green dial)
Underside
Left looper thread
(yellow dial)
A beautiful seam can be obtained on hard-toroll lightweight fabrics by this method of
stitching.
Blue
Tension Dial
Green
1.0
Orange
2.0
Yellow
2.0
To correctly adjust the thread tension, set the dials as follows from the standard thread tension dial sett
ings.
a. Turn the right looper thread tension dial (orange) one half graduation toward the (—) mark.
b. Turn the left looper thread tension dial (yellow) 3 graduations toward the (+) mark.
Slight adjustment will give better thread tensions.
When right looper thread
is too loose
Needle thread
Right looper
thread
Topside
Turn right looper thread tension
dial (orange) toward the (+)
mark.
Left looper
thread
Underside
(2) 1-needle 2-thread
• Standard rolled hem stitching
When left looper thread
is too loose
Needle thread
Right looper
thread
Topside
Turn left looper thread tension
dial (yellow) toward the (+)
mark.
Or, turn right looper thread ten
sion dial (orange) toward the
(—) mark.
Left looper
thread
*Uhderside
Blue Green Orange Yellow
When needle thread
too loose
Right looper
thread
Topside
Turn needle thread tension dial
(green) toward the (-I-) mark.
Left looper
thread
Needle thread
Underside
Tension Dial
1.0
Spreader
3.0
23
Left looper thread wrapped rolled hem stitching (rolled hem variation).
Correct thread tension
A beautiful seam can be obtained on hard-to-roll light
weight fabrics by this method of stitching.
Blue
Make minor adjustments to obtain even better thread tensions.
Tension Dial
Green
2.0 Spreader
Orange Yellow
1.5
When needle thread is too loose or left
looper thread is too tight
I
Needle thread \
Left looper
thread
Topside
Underside
Turn needle thread tension dial (green) in
the (+) direction or left looper thread tension
dial (yellow) in the (—) direction.
Needle thread \
Turn left looper thread tension dial (yellow)
in the (+) direction.
When left looper thread is too loose ^
Left looper
thread
Topside Underside
4. How to sew
Sewing
• Refer to “Chain off and test sew”on page 9.
• For rolled hemming, a better stitch quality can be obtained by pulling the fabric lightly in the
forward direction to give slight tension to the fabric.
• When starting to sew, hold chained off thread end lightly to prevent it from being sewn into the
seam.
• The minimum overedge seam width that can be obtained for rolled hem is approximately 1.5mm
because the cutting width can not be set below 3.5mm.
24
13. Free arm sewing (tubular work)
16. Three-thread flatlock stitch
Flatlock stitch can be used for various applications.
Preparation
• Use ordinary overedge throat plate.
• Use left or right needle.
• The right looper thread forms the decorative stitch, therefore fine and unobtrusive threads should be
used for the needle and left looper.
Example; Right looper thread
Left looper thread
Needle thread ................................extra fine
Stitch length...............................2—3
Note: If heavy thread such as pearl cotton is used in the right looper, you should skip the 2nd thread
guide (5) as shown on page 15.
1. Set thread tensions to normal sewing condition for
1 needle, 3 thread overedge stitch and make a test ^ .
sample. (See page 16) (green dial
’ ° Needle thread
• When making above adjustment, the right _ /
looper thread tension should be adjusted as uireaV°°*^^'^ ^ febow°drair'^^^'^
light as possible. (orange dial)
• Make a test sample with two ply fabric. I ' Needle thread
2. Turn left looper thread tension dial (yellow) ^ (green dial)
toward (+) mark so that the right looper thread Topside ^ /mi underside
will come as close as possible to the needle thread
as shown in figure 1.
3. Turn needle thread tension dial (green) toward (—)
mark so that right looper thread, left looper thread
and needle thread will all come to the edge of Needle thread
fabric as shown in figure 2.
4. Open looper cover. mghmooper ^ Needle thread
5. Turn hand wheel toward you to bring movable
knife to its lowest position and place it in the non- A % looper
operating position. (See page 21) Topside
6. Attach edge guide to machine. Underside
. .
7. Fold fabric in half with the wrong sides together.
8. Place fabric under the foot with the fold resting against the wall of edge guide. Adjust edge guide so
that it is positioned in the center of the seam width as shown in the sketch.
9. When stitching is completed, unfold fabric and press the stitching from the underside of the fabric.
........................
.....................
Wooly nylon or decorative thread
extra fine
___
Mi
thread
17. Two-thread flatlock stitch
You can also flatlock with the 2-thread overedge stitch. Set tension as shown on page 14. Heavy decora
tive threads such as pearl cotton are not suggested for 2-thread flatlocking.
26
18. Two or three-thread blindstitching
Blindstitching provides a durable hem finish that is almost invisible. It is best suited for sewing cuffs on
knit wear and skirt hems.
Preparation
Remove left needle.
Throat plate
Thread tensions
Stitch length dial
Fold hem to wrong side of fabric, then back to right side. Place raw edge of fabric under hem guide and
place soft fold along edge of hem guide. Stitch making sure needle barely catches the fold. Adjust hem
guide if necessary.
An optional blind hem foot is available from your Singer Dealer which makes blind hemming even easier.
Ordinary overedge throat plate
Set tensions to normal sewing condition for 1 needle, 3 thread, overlock stitching
(see page 16) or for 1 needle 2-thread overlock stitching. (See page 13)
Set stitch length dial to 4—5.
19. Braiding by chaining-off
Chained-off braids can be used for making 3 ply or 4 ply braids.
To make chained-off braids, place movable knife in the non-operating position. Insert filler cord such as
yarn or twill tape through hole in foot and chain-off.
27
20. Two or three-thread pin tucking
Pin tucking is a useful decoration when sewing blouses and children’s clothes. Pin tucking is accomplished
before cutting out garment.
• Use ordinary overedge throat plate or rolled hemming throat plate.
• Remove left needle.
• Before sewing on your garment, always make a test stitch on a sample of your fabric so that you can
adjust the thread tensions correctly for standard 1 needle, 3 thread overedge stitching, or 1 needle 2
thread wrapped edge overlock stitching.
• Place movable knife in non-operating position, (see page 21)
• Fold fabric in half with the wrong side facing up.
• Place fabric under the foot with the fold resting against the wall of edge guide.
• Adjust edge guide so that the stitches will just overcast the edge of the fold as shown in the sketch.
• Lower the foot and sew. When stitching is completed, press pin tuck to lay flat on one side.
21. Applying elastic
Elastic may easily be appHed using the 3-thread overlock stitch or 4-thread mock-safety stitch.
Knife in non-operating position, (see page
21)
Divide elastic and area where elastic will be
inserted into quarters and mark with a
water-soluable marker.
Lay elastic on wrong side of fabric making
sure edges are even.
Line up with edge of throat plate.
After securing with 2-3 stitches, continue
sewing, allowing fabric to feed through
machine while gently stretching elastic (a
quarter at a time) with right hand. Use free
hand to keep fabric even with edge of throat
plate.
28
22. Turning square corners
Outside corner
1. Cut out approximately
2cm from the comer in
line with the overedge
seam edge.
Inside corner
2. Sew to point A, one stitch
beyond edge of fabric and
stop machine.
3. Raise needle and presser
foot.
4. Pull fabric to the rear of
machine just enough to
release the thread caught
on the finger of the throat
plate.
5. Turn fabric and lower
presser foot so that its
finger is positioned on the
edge of fabric.
6. Pull slack threads up, then
start to sew.
1. Cut fabric at seam edge.
2. Place movable knife in
non-operating position.
3. Fold fabric as shown in
sketch.
4. Sew to point B, as close as
possible to the diagonal
fold. Leave needle in
fabric.
5. Raise presser foot, leaving
the needle in the fabric.
6. Refold fabric so that the
overedge is in line with the
already sewn seam.
29
23. How to replace stationary knife
The stationary knife (available from your Singer Dealer) should be changed when it becomes dull.
The stationary knife can be replaced according to the following steps, however if there are any difficulties
experienced, call your Singer representative to make the adjustment.
(1) Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected from
the wall receptacle.
(2) Open the looper cover and set the movable knife in the
non-operating position (see page 21).
(3) Loosen the stationary knife set screw and remove the
stationary knife.
(4) Place a new stationary knife in the groove of the
stationary knife holder, align the cutting edge level
with the top surface of the throat plate and tighten set
screw.
(5) Return the movable knife to its original position.
24. How to exchange light bulb
Light bulb (available from your Singer Dealer) is a
bayonet type 12 volt, 6 watt bulb.
Disconnect power-line plug.
Remove light cover as shown in figure, turn bulb to
left and remove. To replace, push bulb into socket
and turn to right.
25. How to adjust presser foot pressure
The presser foot pressure of this machine is
preadjusted at the factory to suit the sewing of
medium weight fabrics.
It may become necessary to adjust the pressure
in the case of delicate or heavy weight fabric.
For light weight fabric — Decrease the pressure
(as shown at left).
Heavy weight fabric
(as shown at left).
Increase the pressure
26. Reasons for poor stitches and how to make adjustment
Whenever sewing difficulty is encountered, make the adjustments as noted below.
Condition
When the fabric is not
feeding.
When the needle breaks. • Needle not inserted properly.
When the thread breaks.
When stitches skip. • Needle bent or needle point
• Insufficient presser foot pressure.
• Fabric being pulled too hard.
• Loose needle set screw.
• Incorrect threading. • Thread machine correctly (page
• Bent needle or needle point
damaged.
• Thread tension too tight.
• Thread tangled.
• Needle inserted incorrectly.
damaged.
• Needle set loosely.
• Incorrect threading.
• Wrong needle used.
• Insufficient presser foot
pressure.
Reason
Method of Adjustments
{reference pages)
• Increase presser foot pressure
(page 30).
• Insert needle correctly or replace
with correct needle (page 7).
• Do not pull the fabric by hand.
Use hand only to guide the
fabric.
• Tighten screw firmly.
11, 12, 15)
• Replace needle (page 7).
• Adjust tension (page 13, 14,
16 ~ 20)
• Thread correctly (page 11, 12,
15)
• Insert needle correctly (page 7).
• Replace needle (page 7).
• Set needle firmly in position
(page 7).
• Thread machine correctly
(page 11, 12, 15)
• Use Singer Cat. 2054, #14.
• Increase presser foot pressure
(page 30).
When stitches are
irregular. '
When fabric puckers
When the machine does
not operate.
• Thread tension not balanced.
• Thread tension too tight.
• Threading incorrect or tangled.
• Power line plug not connected.
• Adjust tensions (page 13, 14,
16-20)
• Adjust tension (page 13, 14,
16 - 20)
• Re thread machine (page 11, 12,
15)
• Connect with power source.
31
27. Relationship between cloth, thread and needle
Type of Fabric
Light Weight
Lawn, Organdy,
Voil, Crepe, etc.
Medium Weight
Muslin, Sheersucker,
Satin, Gabardine
Broadcloth, etc.
Heavy Weight
Oxford, Denim
Tweed, Corduroy
Serge
Type of Thread
Cotton #100
Silk #100
Spun #80 - #90
Tetron #80 - #100
Cotton #60 - #80
Silk #50
Spun #60 — #80
Tetron #60 - #80
Cotton #40 — #60
Silk #40 - #60
Spun #60 — #80
Tetron #50 - #80
Needle
Singer Cat. No. 2054
(#10), #14
#14
#14
Knit
Tricot
Jersey
Wool (woven, knit)
Spun #80 - #90
Tetron #60 - #80
Spun #60 — #80
Tetron #60 — #80
Cotton #60 — #80
Spun #60 - #80
Tetron #50 — #60
Wooley nylon
Wooley tetron
(#10), #14
#14
#14
32
28. Accessories
1. Needle set 1
2. Screwdriver (large size) 1
3. Screwdriver (small size) 1
4. Tweezers 1
5. Rolled hemming throat plate 1
6. Hex-head wrench 1
29. Specification
Item
Sewing speed
Stitch length (feed amount)
Overedge stitch width
Needle bar stroke
Presser foot rise
Needle
Number of threads
Machine dimensions
Weight
Specification
1,300 spm maximum
1 ~ 5mm (Standard; Rolled hemming F ~ 2, ordinary
overedge 3)
Rolled hemming 1.5mm, ordinary overedge 3.5 7.2mm
(standard 3.5mm)
27mm
5mm
Rolled hemming Singer Cat. No. 2054 (#10), #14
Ordinary overedge Singer Cat. No. 2054 (#10), #14
4
width 257mm x depth 231mm x.height 313mm
5.7 kg
Form U3895(489)
Part No. 379230-002
Printed in Japan
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