Page 1
14
3-4THREAD OVERLOOK MACHINE
U344B/354B
Operator’s
Guide
SINGER
Page 2
14U 344B/354B
PREFACE
Thank you for your purchase of this sewing machine.
This machine intended for household use will provide you with excellent performance in sewing from light
to heavy material (lawn to denim). Please refer to this booklet for proper use and optimum service. To
get the most out of your sewing machine, read the entire operator’s manual before attempting to operate
the machine. Then familiarize yourself with the machine by following the operator’s manual page by page.
To ensure that you are always provided with the most modern sewing capabilities, the manufacturer
reserves the right to change the appearance, design or accessories of this sewing machine when considered
necessary without notification or obligation.
SINGER CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE IN THE U.S.A.
TOLL-FREE NUMBER: 1-800-877-7762
A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY
Copyright ©1992 SINGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY
All Rights Reserved Throughout The World
Page 3
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed including the
following.
Read all instructions before using this machine.
— To reduce the risk of electric shock;
OANGER
■ The machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the
electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
■ Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with the same type rated 15 watts. Be sure to replace the
face plate which covers the light bulb before operating the machine.
— To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:
WARNING
■ Be sure that the electrical voltage of the socket outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage
of the motor.
■ Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this Operator’s Guide. Use only attachments
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in the Operator’s Guide.
■ To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“0”) position, then remove plug from outlet.
■ Disconnect the power line plug from the socket outlet or switch the machine off when making any
adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle and loopers, changing needle, changing throat
plate or changing presser foot, etc.
■ Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when
making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the Operator’s Guide.
■ Do not attempt to adjust the motor belt. Contact your nearest Service Center should any adjustment
be required.
■ Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
■ Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything
on top of it.
■ Always use the proper throat plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
■ Do not use bent needles.
■ When sewing, keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing
machine needle,
■ Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
■ For double insulated machines, when servicing use only identical replacement parts. See instructions
for Servicing of Double-Insulated Appliances.
■ Use only the handle to lift and move the machine.
■ Never operate the machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been
dropped or damaged, or dropped into the water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer
or Service Center for examination, repair, electrical, or mechanical adjustment.
■ Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine
and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
Page 4
■ Never drop or insert any object into any opening. ^
■ Do not use outdoors.
■ Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
■ Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near
children.
■ SERVICING OF DOUBLE-INSULATED PRODUCTS. In a double-insulated product, two systems
of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double-insulated
product, nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing of a double-insulated
product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system, and should be done only by qualified
service personnel. Replacement parts for a double-insulated product must be identical to those parts
in the product. A double-insulated product is marked with the words “DOUBLE-INSULATION” or
“DOUBLE-INSULATED. ”
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
Servicing should be performed by an authorized service representative.
This product is intended for household use.
FOR EUROPEAN AND SIMILAR TERRITORIES:
This product is suppressed for radio and television interference with the International Electrotechnical
Commission requirements of the CISPR.
Machines for Great Britain and some other countries having similar wiring standards are shipped from
the factory without a plug for connection to the mains. The wires in this mains lead are colored in accord
ance with the following code.
Blue: neutral (N) Brown: live (L)
As the colors of the wires in the mains lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colored markings
identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows:
The wire which is colored blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter N or
colored black. The wire which is colored brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with
letter L or colored red. If a 13 Amp. (BS 1363) plug is used, a 3 Amp. fuse must be fitted, or if any other
type of plug is used, a 5 Amp. fuse must be fitted either in the plug or adaptor or at the distribution board.
Neither cord is to be connected to the earth terminal of a three-pin plug.
Page 5
CONTENTS
Page
1. Accessories
2. Needle information
......................................................
..........................................
3. Principal parts..................................................5
4. How to open looper cover
5. Principal parts behind looper cover
6. Preparation prior to sewing
7. Setting up the thread guide holder
8. How to remove and insert needle
• To remove needle (s)
• To insert needle (s)
9. How to remove cylinder cover
..............................
...............
.............................
......................
.......................
..................................
.....................................
........................
10. How to replace cylinder cover.........................9
11. Threading the machine ...................................10
• Threading diagram ...................................10
• Understanding the color code
• Stitch diagram
...........................................
• To thread the machine correctly
• Important threading information
...................
...............
..............
10
10
10
17
12. Chaining off and test sewing .........................
13. Basic stitch types
...........................................
19
• 4 thread overlock
mock safety stitch
• Wide 3 thread overlock stitch
• Narrow 3 thread overlock stitch
14. How to adjust thread tension ....
...................................
...................
..............
....................
19
19
19
19
• Suggested tension settings for 4 thread
overlock mock safety stitch
...................
20
• Correct balance of the 4 thread
overlock mock safety stitch
................
.20
• How to balance the 4 thread
overlock mock safety stitch
...................
20
• Suggested tension setting for the
3 thread overlock stitch
..........................
21
• Correct balance of the 3 thread
overlockstitch
.........................................
21
• How to balance the 3 thread
overlock stitch
..................................... . .21
15. How to change threads/Tie on method ... .22
16. How to adjust the stitch length
......................
23
17. How to disengage movable upper knife ... .23
• To place movable knife in
nonworking position
...............................
23
• To place movable knife in working
position ...................................................24
4
4
6
6
6
7
8
8
8
9
18
Page
18. Seam guide lines
.............................................
19. How to adjust the overedge
seam width
20. How to sew a rolled hem..............................
• Machine set up
...................................................
..........................................
.26
26
• Suggested tension settings for
standard rolled hem
................................
27
• Suggested tension settings for upper
looper thread wrapped rolled hem ... .27
• How to balance the upper looper
thread wrapped rolled hem
.....................
27
• Additional information about
rolled hemming .
...
................................
28
• To secure the rolled hem thread
chain .......................................................28
21. Stitch variations and sewing
techniques
...............................................
• How to sew a flatlock decorative
seam
........................................................
• How to sew an overlock blind hem
• How to sew pin tucks
• Turning square corners
..............................
............................
..........
31
31
• Pin placement ...........................................33
• Securing the thread chain
• Applying elastic
........................................
• How to reinforce a seam
.........................
..........................
• Braiding by chaining off...........................35
• Differential feed (with differential
feed machine only)
.................................
22. How to adjust the presser foot pressure ... .38
23. Free arm sewing.............................................38
24. Relationship between cloth, thread
and needle
25. Machine maintenance
...............................................
...................................
• Cleaning the machine ...............................40
• Oiling the machine....................................40
• How to replace the stationary knife ... .41
• How to exchange light bulb
.....................
26. Troubleshooting chart....................................43
27. Optional accessories and attachments
28. Specification
..................................................
...........
24
25
29
29
32
33
34
35
36
39
40
42
44
45
Page 6
1. ACCESSORIES
Needle set 1
Screwdriver (sheet metal) 1
Screwdriver (small size) 1
Tweezers 1
Rolled hemming throat plate 1
Hex-head wrench 1
See page 44 for optional accessories.
2. NEEDLE INFORMATION
0
o
“Q
This overlock uses a flat shank industrial needle
that eliminates the possibility of inserting the
needle backwards.
Do not attempt to use a standard household
sewing machine needle of any size or type in this
overlock.
Singer needle #2054 size 14 is furnished with the
machine. Regular point needles (#2054-42) for
sewing woven fabrics and ball point needles
(2054-06) are available for sewing knits. Both
types are available in sizes 10, 12, 14 & 16.
Refer to the chart on page 39 for selecting the
correct needle for your sewing projects.
#2054
Overlook needle
Page 7
3. PRiKiCIPAL PARTS
® Thread guides and holder
d) Handle
(3) Pressure regulating screw
0 Left needle thread tension dial (blue)
(D Right needle thread tension dial (green)
(6) Upper looper thread tension dial (orange)
(7) Lower looper thread tension dial (yellow)
® Flip and sew convertible bed plate
(9) Throat plate
® Free arm/cyUnder cover
® Looper cover
® Power & light switch
® Stitch length dial
@ Hand wheel
@ Motor cover
(ig) Spool stand
Page 8
4. HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER
* Push the cover to the right as far as it will go. (f)
* Pull cover down toward you. @
Caution:
Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing.
5. PRINCIPAL PARTS BEHIND LOOPER
COVER
0 Upper looper
@ Movable upper knife
0 Presser foot
0 Stationary lower knife
0 Lower looper
6. PREPARATION PRIOR TO SEWING
* Connect the controller/electric plug 0 to the
machine receptacle
* Plug power hne 0 into electric outlet 0.
* Power switch Push “I” mark side
(used also for light switch) to turn “ON”
* To run the machine and control the speed, press
the controller.
* The harder you press, the faster the machine will
sew.
* To stop the machine from sewing, remove your
foot from the controller.
0i.
Push “O” mark side
to turn “OFF”
*
Be sure to make reference to "'Warning'
on following page.
Page 9
Warning:
* Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated
voltage of the motor.
* Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place
anything on top of it when not in use.
* Disconnect the powerline plug from the electric outlet when changing needles, presser feet or
throat plates, or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting
the machine by accidentally pressing the controller.
* Before'cleaning your machine, disconnect the powerline plug from the electric outlet.
7. SETTING UP THE THREAD GUIDE
HOLDER
This machine is shipped with the thread guide
holder in the lowered position.
* Fully extend the thread guide holder.
* The two joints on the telescope will click into
place when they are correctly positioned.
* Center the thread guides above the spool pins.
* Place thread over the cone adapters on the spool
pins.
Note: If the machine is threaded, straighten the
threads to prevent tangling.
Page 10
8. HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT
NEEDLES
• TO REMOVE NEEDLE (S)
* Be sure to disconnect the machine from the
electric outlet before removing needle(s).
* Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle
is at its highest position.
* Loosen, but do not remove the needle set screw
with the small screwdriver.
— left needle set screw ®
- right needle set screw (2)
* Remove the needle(s).
* TO INSERT NEEDLE (S)
* Hold the needle with the flat surface to the back.
* Insert the needle into the needle clamp as far as it
will go.
Note: The left needle (3) will be slightly higher
than the right needle (J).
* Securely tighten the needle set screw.
Flat surface to the rear
page 4 for additional needle information.
(
'll
jj')
r:
Page 11
9. HOW TO REMOVE CYLINDER
COVER
^ Removing the cylinder cover exposes the lower
looper for easy threading and cleaning of the ma
chine.
* While pulling the cylinder cover to the left 0,lift
cover upward and off the machine (2).
10. HOW TO REPLACE CYLINDER
COVER
* Place the tab on top of the cylinder 0 under the
throat plate @.
* Press cover downward and to the right 0.
Warning:
Do not hold the cylinder cover when lifting or
carrying the machine.
Caution:
Be sure cylinder cover is replaced when sewing.
*
Page 12
11. THREADING THE MACHINE
• THREADING DIAGRAM
* A color coded threading diagram is located inside
the looper cover for quick reference.
* Thread the machine in the order 0 to (4) as
shown.
* UNDERSTANDING THE COLOR CODE
© © ©®
Left needle thread — Blue @
* Right needle thread Green (3)
* Upper looper thread — Orange 0
* Lower looper thread — Yellow 0
* STITCH DIAGRAM
* Upper looper thread — Orange 0
* Lower looper thread — Yellow 0
* Right needle thread — Green @
* Left needle thread — Blue 0
Topside
4 THREADS
LEFT
NEEDLE
3 THREADS
RIGHT
NEEDLE
Underside
• TO THREAD THE MACHINE
CORRECTLY
(1) Threading the Upper Looper (Orange)
* Thread the upper looper as indicated © ^ ®
10
|fT|
H
Page 13
* Pass thread from back to the front through the
thread guide 0.
* Insert thread through the right hole.
* Bring thread up and insert through top of left hole
* Hold the thread above the tension disc to stabilize
it. (3)^A
* Pass the thread between the tension discs.
* Pull thread up and over the top of the metal finger.
-B
(D-c
* Pull thread down to make certain it is properly
threaded between the tension discs.
* Thread the looper area of the machine following
the orange color coded thread guides. (@~(t))
* Thread the hole in the upper looper from front to
back i(8).
Note: Use the tweezers provided in the accessory set
to aid in threading the looper.
* Pull about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread through the
looper and place to the back of the throat plate.
*
11
Page 14
(2) Threading the Lower Looper (Yellow)
* Thread the lower looper as indicated ©
Pass thread from back to the front through the
thread guide ©.
Insert thread down through the right hole.
Bring thread up and insert through top of left hole
* Hold the thread above the tension disc to stabilize
it ®-A.
* Pass the thread between the tension discs (3)~B.
Pull thread up and over the top of the metal fìnger
(D-c.
* Pull thread down to make certain it is properly
threaded between the tension discs.
12
Page 15
* Thread the looper area of the machine following
the yellow color coded thread guides ®'^(6).
* Remove the cylinder cover (page 9) to expose the
lower looper for threading.
* Turn the hand wheel toward you until the lower
looper is at the far left.
* Pull 7.5 10 cm (3 ~ 4 inches) of thread through
thread guide (7).
* Insert the thread through the left end of the lower
looper. (8)
* Drop the thread.
Note: Use the tweezers that are in the accessory set
to aid in threading the looper.
* Turn the hand wheel toward you until the lower
looper is at the far right.
* Pick up the thread and pass it through the hole in
the end of the looper ® .
* The thread should be positioned in the groove of
the lower looper.
*
* Pull about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread through the
looper and place it over the top of the upper
looper and to the back of the throat plate.
13
Page 16
(3) Threading the Right Needle (Green)
* Thread the right needle as indicated (D .
* Pass thread from back to the front through the
thread guide ®.
* Insert thread down through the right hole.
* Bring thread up and insert through top of left hole
* Hold the thread above tension disc to stabilize
it @~A.
* Pass the thread between the tension discs ©—B.
*
* Pull thread up and over the top of the metal finger
@-C.
* Pull thread down to make certain it is properly
threaded between the tension discs.
14
Page 17
* Continue to thread points 0 '^©.
Note: Be sure to pass the thread through upper
thread path of the thread guide
* Thread the eye of the right needle ®.
* The needle may be easier to thread when the
upper knife is disengaged and placed in the non
operating position, (see page 23).
— Be sure to engage knife before sewing.
* Place the thread to the back, under the presser
foot.
15
Page 18
(4) Threading the Left Needle (Blue)
* Thread the left needle as indicated © .
* Pass thread from back to the front through the
thread guide ©.
* Insert thread down through the right hole.
* Bring thread up and insert through top of left hole
* Hold the thread above tension disc to stabilize it
@-A.
* Pass the thread between the tension discs (3)-B.
* Pull thread up and over the top of the metal fìnger
(D-c.
* Pull thread down to make certain it is properly
threaded between the tension discs.
*
16
Page 19
* Continue to thread points 0 ^(7).
Note: Be sure to pass the thread through lower
thread path of the thread guide®.
* Thread the* eye of the left needle. ®
* The needle may be easier to thread when the
upper knife is disengaged and placed in the non
operating position (see page 17).
— Be sure to engage knife before sewing.
* Place the thread to the back, under the presser
foot.
• IMPORTANT THREADING INFORMATION
Always thread the needle(s) last to prevent mis-
threading the lower looper.
If the lower looper should come unthreaded.
1) Unthread the needle(s)
2) Thread the lower looper
3) Thread the needle(s)
Correct
view
Wrong
17
Page 20
12. CHAINING OFFANDTEST
SEWING
* When the machine is completely threaded, bring
all of the threads over the throat plate and slightly
to the left under the presser foot.
* Hold the threads and apply a slight tension.
* Turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 complete
turns to start the thread chain.
* Lower presser foot.
* Continue holding the chain and press on the foot
control until the chain is 5 7.5 cm (2 ~ 3 inches)
in length.
* Place fabric under the front of the presser foot and
sew a test sample.
Note: Do not pull on the fabric while sewing as this
may deflect the needle, causing it to break.
*
* At the end of the sample, continue to run the
machine with the presser foot down until the
chain reaches 5 ~ 7.5 cm (2 3 inches) in length.
* Clip the thread chain.
Note: Anytime you have rethreaded the machine
always chain off and sew a test sample to test
tensions and make adjustments as necessary.
18
Page 21
13. BASIC STITCH TYPES
• 4 THREAD OVERLOOK MOCK
SAFETY STITCH
* This machine is a four-thread overlock that uses
two needles and two loopers to create a 5.7mm
(7/32 inch) wide four-thread mock safety stitch.
• WIDE 3 THREAD OVERLOOK STITCH
* When the right needle is removed a wide 5.7mm
(7/32 inch) three-thread stitch is sewn.
* NARROW 3 THREAD OVERLOOK STITCH
* When the left needle is removed a narrow 3.5mm
(9/64 inch) wide three-thread stitch is sewn.
Note: The stitch width can be increased by adjust
ing the knife (page 25).
- The left needle stitch width can be in
creased from 5.7mm (7/32inch) to 7.2mm
(9/32inch).
- The right needle stitch width can be in
creased from 3.5mm (9/64inch) to 5.0mm
(l3/64inch).
14. HOW TO ADJUST THREAD
TENSION
* The thread tension dials on this machine are a one-
turn system.
* As the number increases on the dial the thread
tension becomes tighter.
0 = lowest tension
9 = highest tension
3.5mm (9/64'
* Be sure the machine is correctly threaded other
wise proper thread tension cannot be obtained.
* When making adjustments to balance the tensions,
it is recommended that
1) Adjustments be made in no greater than half
a number at a time.
2) Sew a test sample after each adjustment.
Current Setting is 114.
Adjustment would be to 1 or 2
for >2 turn adjustment.
19
Page 22
• SUGGESTED TENSION SETTINGS
FOR 4 THREAD OVERLOOK MOCK
SAFETY STITCH
Note:
* These are suggested tension settings only.
* Tension settings are effected by
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fiber content of thread
* CORRECT BALANCE OF THE 4 THREAD
OVERLOOK MOCK SAFETY STITCH
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Right needle
thread
Tension Dial
Green
Blue
2.5
3.0
3.5
Upper looper thread
1.5
2.0
2.5
Orange
1.0
1.0
1.0
Yellbw
1.5
1.5
1.5
* HOW TO BALANCE THE 4 THREAD
OVERLOOK MOCK SAFETY STITCH
* When the upper looper thread lies on the under
side of the fabric
— Turn the upper looper thread tension dial
(orange) to a higher number
— Or turn lower looper thread tension dial (yel
low) to a lower number.
* When the lower looper thread appears on the top
of the fabric
— Turn lower looper thread tension dial (yellow)
toward a higher number
— Or turn the upper looper thread tension dial
(orange) toward a lower number.
* When the left needle thread tension is too loose
— Turn the left needle thread tension dial (blue)
toward a higher number.
Topside
Right needle^ Left
thread
Topside
Right needle
thread ^^read
Topside
Right needle
Topside
Upper looper thread
Upper looper thread
Upper looper thread
needle
thread
Underside
Lower looper
thread
Underside
Lower looper
thread
Underside
Lower looper
thread
Underside
* When the right needle thread tension is too loose
— Turn the right needle thread tension dial
(green) toward a higher number.
20
Right needle
thread
Topside
Upper looper thread
Lower looper
thread
Underside
Page 23
* SUGGESTED TENSION SETTINGS FOR
THE 3 THREAD OVERLOOK STITCH
Note:
* These are suggested tension settings only.
* Tension settings are effected by
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fiber content of thread.
Left Needle/Wide 3 Thread Overlook Stitch
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Right Needle/Narrow 3 Thread Overlook Stitch
Blue
2.5
3.0
3.5
Tension Dial
Green
Orange
1.0
1.0
1.0
Y ellow
1.5
1.5
1.5
• CORRECT BALANCE OF THE 3 THREAD
OVERLOCKSTITCH
HOW TO BALANCE THE 3 THREAD
OVERLOCKSTITCH
When the upper looper thread lies on the under
side of the fabric
— Turn the upper looper thread tension dial
(orange) to a higher number.
— Or turn the lower looper thread tension dial
(yellow) to a lower number.
Fabric
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Needle thread
Topside
Needle thread
Upper looper
thread
Topside
Tension Dial
Blue
Green
Upper looper thread
Orange
2.0
2.5
3.0
/
Lower looper
thread
1.0
1.5
1.5
Y ellow
1.5
1.5
1.5
Underside
Underside
When the lower looper thread appears on the top
— Turn the lower looper thread tension dial
(yellow) toward a higher number.
— Or, turn the upper looper thread tension dial
(orange) to a lower number.
* When the needle thread is too loose, Turn the
needle tension dial (blue or green) to a higher
number.
Lower looper thread
Upper looper
thread
Topside
Upper looper
thread
Lower looper
thread
Topside
Needle
thread
Underside
Needle
thread
Underside
21
Page 24
15. HOW TO CHANGE THREADS/TIE
ON METHOD
* To change thread type or color, clip thread near
the spool.
* Place new thread on stand.
* Tie new thread and old thread ends together.
* Clip thread tails to 2 3 cm (1 inch) length. If
clipped too short, threads may come untied.
Firmly pull both threads to test knot security.
* Note tension dial settings.
* Turn the tension dials down toward the (0)
mark until the dial stops.
22
Page 25
* Pull the threads through the machine one at a
time.
* If threads do not pull easily, check for tangles on
thread guides or looping under thread stand.
* When pulling thread through the needle, STOP
when the knot is in front of the needle.
* Cut the thread, and insert it through the needle.
* Return tension dials to previous settings.
16. HOW TO ADJUST THE STITCH
LENGTH
* The stitch length dial should be set on the 3mm
(7/64 inch) setting for most sewing conditions.
* Adjust the stitch length to 4mm (5/32 inch) when
sewing heavy weight fabrics.
* Adjust the stitch length to 2mm (5/64 inch) when
sewing light weight fabrics to obtain excellent
seams without puckering.
17. HOW TO DISENGAGE MOVABLE
UPPER KNIFE
* TO PLACE MOVABLE KNIFE IN
NONWORKING POSITION
* Be sure the machine is disconnected from the
power source.
* Open looper cover (page 6).
* Push the movable knife holder to the right as far as
it will go.
* Turn the knob away from you until the knife
clicks into a horizontal position.
Note: If the knife stops in the up position
* Turn the hand wheel toward you until the knife
clears the top of the machine.
* Continue to rotate the knife to the horizontal
position.
23
Page 26
* TO PLACE MOVABLE KNIFE IN
WORKING POSITION
* Open looper cover and push the movable knife
holder to the right as far as it will go.
* Turn the knob up and toward you until the knife
clicks into the operating position.
Caution: Always close looper cover before operating
machine.
18. SEAM GUIDE LINES
* When the left needle is inserted, the thick line on
the left of the looper cover is 16.0mm (5/8 inch).
* When sewing with the right needle, the thick line
on the left of the looper cover is 14.0mm (35/64
inch).
Note: All lines are 2.0mm (5/64 inch) apart.
24
Page 27
19. HOW TO ADJUST THE OVEREDGE
SEAM WIDTH
* The machine is set to sew the 4 thread stitch and
three thread left needle position stitch at a width
of 5.7mm (7/32 inch).
* The machine is set to sew the three thread right
needle position stitch at a width of 3.5mm (9/64
inch).
The 5.7mm (7/32 inch) setting can be increased to
7.2mm (9/32 inch) and the 3.5mm (9/64 inch)
setting can be increased to 5mm (13/64 inch) by
adjusting the stationary knife.
Be sure the machine is disconnected from the
power source.
Open the looper cover (page 6).
Disengage the movable upper knife (page 23).
Remove the cylinder cover (page 9).
Loosen the 2 stationary knife holder set screws
with the hex-head wrench provided in the accesso
ries. (1)
Move the stationary knife holder to the right to
increase the stitch width, or to the left to decrease
the stitch width.
Be sure to align the cutting edge of the stationary
knife level with the top surface of the throat plate.
(2)
* Tighten set screws. (3)
* Replace the cylinder cover (page 9).
* Return the movable knife to its original position
(page 24).
* Test sew and adjust tensions as necessary to com
pensate for the increase or decrease in stitch
width.
Note: Do not set the overedge seam width below
3.5mm (9/64 inch).
Page 28
20. HOW то SEW A ROLLED HEM
Rolled hemming is done by rolling and overedging
the fabric edge.
* Light weight fabrics such as lawn, voil, organdy,
crepe, etc. perform the best.
* Rolled hemming is not suited for heavy or stiff
fabrics.
* MACHINE SET UP
* Be sure the machine is disconnected from the
power source.
* Remove the left needle.
* Insert a #2054 size #10 or #14 needle in the right
needle position.
* Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle
is at its highest position.
* Unscrew the throat plate screw.
* Install the rolled hemming throat plate being
careful not to catch the threads between the plate
and the machine.
* Replace throat plate screw.
* Open looper cover (page 6).
* Disengage upper knife (page 23).
* Remove the cylinder cover (page 9).
* Align the left edge of the stationary knife with the
“M” mark on the rolled hemming throat plate.
* See page 25 for adjustment.
Note: Be sure the stationary knife is not in contact
with the edge of the rolled hemming throat
plate.
* Replace the cylinder cover, engage upper knife and
close the looper cover.
26
Stationary knife
holder
Page 29
* Set the stitch length dial to “2^F” and a fine
seam will be sewn.
* This machine can sew two types of rolled hems.
* SUGGESTED TENSION SETTINGS
FOR STANDARD ROLLED HEM
* Always sew a test sample and adjust tension
balance if neccessary.
* Adjust tension balance the same as for a narrow
three-thread overlock stitch (page 21).
Topside
Underside
Tension Dial
* SUGGESTED TENSION SETTINGS FOR
UPPER LOOPER THREAD WRAPPED
ROLLED HEM
* For medium and heavy weight fabrics that are
difficult to roll.
* Always sew a test sample, and if neccessary,
adjust tension balance as instructed below.
* For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper
looper with wooly nylon and the needle and
lower looper with lightweight regular thread.
Blue
:
-----------------
■■■1Я
1
Topside
Blue
1
Green
2.0
YWV¥
Green
2.0 1.5
Tension Dial
Orange Yellow
Orange
4.5
Yellow
2.0
Underside
6.0
• HOW TO BALANCE THE UPPER LOOPER
THREAD WRAPPED ROLLED HEM
* When the upper looper thread is too loose
— Turn the upper looper thread tension dial
(orange) to a higher number.
Needle thread
Upper looper
thread
Topside
Lower looper
thread
Underside
27
Page 30
When the lower looper thread is too loose
— Turn the lower looper thread tension dial
(yellow) toward a higher number.
— Or, turn the upper looper thread tension dial
(orange) to a lower number.
Upper looper
thread
Lower looper
thread
* When the needle thread is too loose
— Turn the needle thread tension dial (green) to
a higher number.
• ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ABOUT
ROLLED HEMMING
* Hold the thread chain when you begin sewing to
keep it from curling into the seam.
Topside
Topside
Underside
Upper looper
thread
Lower looper
thread
Needle thread
Underside
* Place a slight tension on the material in the sewing
direction and a finer seam finish can be obtained.
* The minimum overedge stitch width that can be
obtained for rolled hemming is approximately 1.5
mm (1/16 inch) since the cutting width cannot be
set below 3.5mm (9/64 inch).
• TO SECURE THE ROLLED HEM THREAD
CHAIN
* Apply a small drop of liquid seam sealant to the
end of the seam. Allow to dry, then cut the chain
close to the stitches.
Note: Test the liquid seam sealant for color fastness
before use.
28
Page 31
21. stTtch variations and
SEWING TECHNIQUES
* HOW TO SEW A FLATLOCK DECORATIVE
SEAM
* A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the
tension of the three-thread overlock stitch, sewing
the seam and pulling the fabric apart to flatten the
seam.
* The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction
and decorative stitch or for ornamentation only.
(1) Machine Set Up
* Remove the left or right needle.
* Begin with the machine threaded and tension
balanced for the three-thread overlock stitch (page
21).
* Loosen the needle thread tension (green or blue)
generously.
* Loosen the upper looper thread tension (orange)
slightly.
* Tighten the lower looper thread tension (yellow)
generously.
(2) Flatlocking a Seam
* Place the fabric wrong sides together to sew a
decorative stitch on the right side of the garment.
* Sew the seam, trimming the excess fabric.
Remove’
f
t
0 0
>
-------
k
0 0
Remove
* The needle thread (green or blue) will form a V on
the underside of the fabric.
* The lower looper thread will pull into a straight
line at the fabric edge.
Needle thread
Upper looper thread
Topside
Lower looper
thread
Underside
29
Page 32
* Pull on opposite sides of the seam to pull the
stitches flat.
(3) Decorative Flatlocking
* Place the movable upper knife in the non-working
position (page 23). The fabric is not trimmed on
this stitch.
* Fold fabric wrong sides together.
* Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part
of the stitch extending off the fabric.
* Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten.
(4) Additional Information about Flatlocking
* The tensions must be correctly adjusted for the
fabric to pull flat.
* The upper looper thread is the prominent thread
in the flatlock stitch. Place a decorative thread in
the upper looper and inconspicuous threads in the
lower looper and needle.
* For a ladder stitch, sew seam with right sides
together. The needle thread will be the prominent
thread that creates the ladder (A).
30
Note: An optional Edge Guide is available (page
44) to aid in sewing a flatlock stitch.
Page 33
• HOVC то SEW AN OVERLOOK BLIND HEM
The excess fabric is trimmed and the hem is sewn
and the raw edges are overlocked in one operation.
The overlock blind hem is best suited for sewing knit
wear. It provides a durable finish that is almost
invisible.
* Remove the left needle and adjust machine for a
narrow three-thread overlock stitch.
Note: The three-thread flatlock stitch can also be
used.
* Set the stitch length dial at 4 ^ 5.
* Fold the hem to the wrong side of the fabric, then
back to the right side with 6mm (1/4") beyond
the fold.
* Stitch on the extended hem edge, allowing the
machine needle to barely catch the edge of the
fold.
Note: An optional blind hem foot (ULTRA HEM
FOOT) is available, (page 45)
* HOW TO SEW PIN TUCKS
Sew decorative pin tucks on the fabric before cutting
out the garment.
* Remove the left needle and adjust machine for a
narrow three-thread overlock stitch.
Note: The rolled hem stitch can also be used for this
technique.
* Place the movable upper knife in the non-operat
ing position (page 23).
* Mark the fabric with the desired number of pin
tucks using a water soluble fabric marker.
Page 34
* Fold the fabric with the wrong sides together and
sew.
Press the pin tucks in the same direction.
* TURNING SQUARE CORNERS
(1) Outside Corner
* Cut out approximately 2 cm (51/64 inch) from
the corner, in line with the overedge seam edge.
* Sew one stitch beyond point (A) and stop.
* Raise needle and presser foot.
* Pull the fabric to the rear of the machine just
enough to release the thread caught on the finger
of the throat plate.
Note: Presser foot has been removed to show detail.
* Turn the fabric and lower the presser foot so that
the knife is positioned in line with the cut edge.
* Pull slack threads up, then start to sew.
(2) Inside Corner
* Cut fabric at seam edge,
32
Page 35
* Place movable upper knife in non-operating posi
tion (page 23).
* Stitch on cut edge of fabric.
* Stop sewing before you reach the corner and fold
the fabric to the left to straighten the corner.
* Continue to sew slowly holding the fabric edge in
a straight line moving the fold as you sew.
• PIN PLACEMENT
* Insert pins to the left of the presser foot. The pins
will be easy to remove and are away from the cut
ting action of the knives.
Caution: Sewing over pins will damage and/or de
stroy the cutting edge of the knives.
* SECURING THE THREAD CHAIN
* Thread a large eye, hand sewing needle (such as a
tapestry needle) with the thread chain.
* Insert the needle into the end of the seam to
secure thread.
Note: To secure a rolled hem thread chain see page
27.
33
Page 36
• APPLYING ELASTIC
* Place the movable upper knife in the non-operat
ing position, (page 23)
* Divide the elastic and the area where the elastic
will be attached into quarters and mark with a
watersoluble marker.
* Lay elastic on the wrong side of the fabric making
sure elastic and fabric edges are even.
* Line up with edge of throat plate.
* Elastic should be sewn using the 3 thread overlock
stitch or the 4 thread overlock mock safety stitch.
* After securing with 2 ~ 3 stitches, continue
sewing, allowing the fabric to feed through the
machine while gently stretching elastic (a quarter
at a time) with the right hand.
* Use the left hand to keep the fabric even with the
edge of the throat plate.
34
Page 37
* HOW TO REINFORCE A SEAM
* inserting twill tape while overedge sewing will
stabilize the seam.
* Insert the tape through the hole in the front of
the foot.
* Position the tape under the foot to the back of the
machine and sew the garment seam.
* The tape is attached as the seam is sewn.
* BRAIDING BY CHAINING OFF
* Place the movable upper knife in non-operating
position.
* Insert filler cord such as yarn or twill tape through
the hole in the front of the foot.
* Position the filler cord under the foot and chain
off the desired length.
* Chained off braids can be used individually or
woven into 3 or 4 ply braids.
35
Page 38
* DIFFERENTIAL FEED
(with differential feed machine only)
* Differential feed is a system which “stretches” or
“gathers” the fabric, when amount of feed of
front feed dog in relation to the rear feed dog is
changed.
* The differential feed ratio ranges from 1:0.77
1:2.0. Adjustment is made by means of the dif
ferential feed adjusting lever as shown.
* Use of differential feed is very effective in over
edging stretch fabrics and fabrics cut on the bias.
(1) Gathered Overedge
(Use regular throat plate)
* Gathered overedge is most suited for shirring
sleeves, yokes, front and back bodices, skirt hems,
etc. in stretch fabrics such as knits and jersey be
fore assembling into garment.
Feed Control
Lever
Thumb Screw
Center
Mark
To set the differential feed adjusting lever
* Open looper cover and loosen differential feed
adjusting lever thumb screw.
* Slide adjusting lever downward below the center
mark, as required, to gather, and tighten the
thumb screw.
Note: The setting position of the lever will differ de
pending on the material being sewn and the
amount of feed for shirring.
* When differential feed adjusting lever is set to
maximum gathering ratio, the stitch length will
automatically change to 3mm (7/64inch) if
previous setting was higher than setting “3”.
* Be sure to reset the differential feed adjusting lever
to center mark for normal overedge stitching.
Tighten
Gather
Loosen
36
Page 39
(2) Stretch overedge
(Use regular or rolled hemming throat plate)
* Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative
collars, sleeves, skirt hems, etc. on loosely knit and
woven fabrics.
To set the differential feed adjusting lever
* Open looper cover and loosen differential feed
adjusting lever thumb screw.
* Slide adjusting lever upward above the center
mark, as required, to stretch, and tighten the
thumb screw.
* To sew a seam, apply gentle tension to the fabric
by holding the seam lightly in front and back of
the presser foot.
Note: If amount of “stretch” is not correctly set in
relation to the fabric being sewn, the fabric is
apt to shift away from the needle resulting in
improperly sewn overedge seam. In such case,
reset differential feed adjusting lever closer to
the center mark.
* Be sure to reset the differential feed adjusting lever
to center mark for normal overedge stitching.
Page 40
22. HOW TO ADJUST THE PRESSER
FOOT PRESSURE
The presser foot pressure of the machine is pre
adjusted for sewing medium weight fabrics.
* It may be necessary to adjust the pressure to sew
different weights of fabrics by turning the pressure
regulating screw.
For light weight fabric—decrease pressure.
For heavy weight fabric—increase pressure.
23. FREE ARM SEWING
^ Sewing hard-to-reach garment areas such as arm
holes and overcasting trouser cuffs, is made easier
by using the free-arm.
* Push the flip and sew convertible bed plate down.
* Place garment over the free arm and sew.
Pressure regulating thunnb screw
38
Page 41
24. RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CLOTH, THREAD AND NEEDLE
Type of Fabric Type of Thread
Light Weight
Lawn, Organdy,
Voil, Crepe, etc.
Cotton #100
Silk #100
Spun #80 - #90
Tetron #80 - #100
Medium Weight
Muslin, Sheersucker,
Satin, Gabardine,
Broadcloth, etc.
Cotton #60 - #80
Silk #50
Spun #60 - #80
Tetron #60 - #80
Heavy Weight
Oxford, Denim,
Tweed, Corduroy,
Serge
Cotton #40 — #60
Silk #40 - #60
Spun #60 - #80
Needle
Singer Cat. No. 2054
#10
#10, #14
#14, #16
Tetron #50 — #80
Knit
Tricot
Spun #80 - #90
Tetron #60 - #80
Jersey
Spun #60 - #80
Tetron #60 — #80
Cotton #60 - #80
Wool (woven, knit)
Spun #60 - #80
Tetron #50 - #60
Woolly nylon
Woolly tetron
Note; For additional needle information see page 4.
#10, #14.
#10, #14
#10, #14
39
Page 42
25. MACHINE MAINTENANCE
* An overlock requires more maintenance than a
conventional machine mainly due to two reasons.
1) A lot of lint is produced due to the cutting
action of the knives.
2) An overlock runs at a very high speed and
needs to be oiled frequently to lubricate the
internal working parts.
• CLEANING THE MACHINE
Danger: Before cleaning your machine, disconnect
power line plug from the wall receptacle.
* Clean the lint from the looper and knife area often
with a dry Hnt brush.
• OILING THE MACHINE
Danger: Before lubricating your machine, disconnect
power line plug from the wall receptacle.
* The oiling points shown in the diagram, should be
oiled periodically.
Note: Use sewing machine oil. Do not use any other
oil or damage could result.
40
Page 43
* HOW TO REPLACE THE STATIONARY
KNIFE
Danger: Before replacing the stationary knife, dis
connect power line plug from the wall
receptacle.
* The stationary knife should be changed when it
becomes dull.
* The stationary knife can be replaced according to
the directions provided, however if there are any
difficulties experienced, consult your Singer re
presentative to make the adjustments.
* Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected
from the electric source.
* Open the looper cover and set the movable upper
knife © in the non-operating position (page 23).
* Loosen the stationary knife set screw
and
remove the stationary knife @ .
* Place a new stationary knife in the groove of the
stationary knife holder, align the cutting edge level
with the top surface of the throat plate ®.
* Replace stationary knife holder ® and tighten set
screw.
* Return the movable upper knife © to its operat
ing position.
41
Page 44
• HOWTO EXCHANGE LIGHT BULB
Danger: Always unplug before relamping.
* Light bulb is available at your Singer shop. Take
old bulb to the Singer shop and ask for same bulb.
* If voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of
your machine is 110 ^ 127V, ask for light bulb
conforming to following specification.
Bayonet type 110
• Glass shape
• Lamp cap
• Overall length
127V 15W
T-20
BA 15D/19
48 mm
^ Remove light cover screw and while pushing the
cover lightly to the rear, swing cover to the left
and remove from machine as shown in the illust
ration. Turn bulb to the left to remove. To replace
the bulb, push bulb into the socket and turn to the
right.
If voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of
your machine is 200 ~ 240V, ask for light bulb
conforming to following specification.
Edison type (screw type) 200 240V 15W
• Glass shape T-22
• Lamp cap E14
• Overall length 56mm
* Remove light cover screw and while pushing the
cover lightly to the rear, swing cover to the left
and remove from machine as shown in the illust
ration. Turn bulb to the left to remove. To
replace, screw bulb into socket turning it to the
right.
42
Page 45
26. TROUBLESHOOTING CHART
Problem
Fabric does not
feed well
Needle breaks
Thread breaks
Stitches skip
Solution
— Lengthen stitch length
— Increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight
fabric
— Decrease presser foot pressure for light weight
fabric
— Insert needle correctly
— Do not pull fabric while sewing
— Tighten needle set screw
— Use a larger needle on heavy fabrics
— Check threading
— Check for tangled or caught thread
— Insert needle correctly
— Insert new needle, current needle may be bent or
have a blunt point
— Use a high quality thread
— Loosen thread tension
— Insert new needle, current needle may be bent or
have a blunt point
— Tighten needle set screw
— Insert needle correctly
— Change type or size of needle
— Check threading
— Increase presser foot pressure
— Use a high quality thread
Page
23
38
38
8
18
8
39
10-17
22
8
8
39
19-21
8
8
8
4
lO'- 17
38
39
Irregular stitches
Fabric puckers
Irregular trimming
Fabric jams
Machine does not
operate
— Balance thread tension
— Check for tangled or caught thread
— Check threading
— Loosen thread tension
— Check for tangled or caught thread
- Use high quality light weight thread
— Shorten stitch length
— Decrease presser foot pressure for light weight
fabrics
— Check alignment of knives
— Replace one or both knives
— Close looper cover before sewing
— Check for tangled or caught thread
— Compress thick layers of fabric with conventional
machine before sewing with overlock
— Connect machine to power source 6
19-21
22
10-17
19-21
22
39
23
38
41
41
22
6
43
Page 46
27. OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES AND
ATTACHMENTS
(1) Sewing with an Overlook
* For additional information, the following book
is recommended. Sewing with an Overlock-From
The Singer Sewing Reference Library, published
by Cy Decosse Incorporated.
(2) Edge Guide
(P/N 281465)
* Attaches to the looper cover to aid in seaming and
decorative sewing such as flatlocking and pin
tucking.
Sewing'i^Overlock
Edge guide
set screw
(3) Spool Cap (S) (P/N 546894)
* Adapts a regular thread spool for use on the over
look machine.
(4) Anti-spiJI Net (S) (P/N 543131)
* For use with threads that easily spill off the cone.
Spool cap
Thread spool
44
Page 47
(5) Ultra Hem Foot (P/N 376719)
* Special foot that makes sewing a blind hem easier.
The machine will trim the excess fabric, finish off
the edge and sew a hem in one operation.
(See page 31)
(6) Clean Pocket (P/N 370292)
* Fits under the base of the machine and catches the
fabric scraps as they are trimmed.
(7) Fabric Separator (P/N 281464)
* Most suited for gathering when sewing tiered
skirts, yokes, cuffs and frills on skirts etc.
(See Gathered Overedge, page 36 for gather
stitching).
28. SPECIFICATION
Item
Sewing speed
Stitch length (feed amount)
Differential feed ratio
Overedge stitch width
Needle bar stroke
Presser foot rise
Needle
Number of threads
Machine dimensions
Weight 14U344B 5.5 kg
14U354B
1,300 spm maximum
1 5mm (Standard: Rolled hemming F ~ 2, ordinary
overedge 3)
1:0.77 ~ 1:2.0 (with differential feed machine)
Rolled hemming 1.5mm, ordinary overedge 3.5 ^ 7.2mm
(standard 3.5mm)
27 mm
5 mm
Singer Cat. No. 2054 (#10), #14
4
Width 306mm x depth 237mm x height 270mm
5.8 kg
Specification
45
Page 48
Form U6195 (Rev. 492)
Part No. 379371-002 (Rev. 1)
Printed in Japan
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