Pfaff ClassicStyle Quilt 1527 User Manual

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Page 1

1527

ClassicStyle Quilt

Owner´s manual

Page 2

Machine Overview

10 11

25 26

1 Connection socket “foot

control with main cord”

2 Main switch

3 Handwheel release disk

4 Handwheel

5 Bobbin winder

6 Lid with stitches

7 Extra spool holder

8 Spool holder with spool

cap

9 Take-up lever

10 Needle thread tension

dial

11 Threading path

12 Thread cutter

13 Presser foot holder with

presser foot

14 Removable accessory

tray

15 Base plate

16 IDT System / Integrated

Dual Feed

17 Needle holder with

À xing screw

18 Presser foot lifter

19 Button for “reverse

sewing”

20 Stitch length dial

21 Carrying handle

22 Stitch selection

23 Thread guide

24 Sewing lamp (max. 15

watt)

25 Stitch width dial

26 Needle position dial

27 Needle plate

Page 3

Presser feet (normal accessories)

For more information about accessories, please contact your PFAFF dealer.

0 Standard Presser Foot with IDT

Part No. 820250-096 (pictured) (select 1546 and 1536)

Part No. 820258-096 (select 1526)

1 Clearview Foot

(Fancy-stitch foot without IDT)

Part No. 820229-096

31045

3 Blindhem/Overlock Foot with IDT

Part No. 820256-096 (pictured) (select 1546 and 1536)

Part No. 820264-096 (select 1526)

4 Zipper Foot with IDT

Part No. 820248-096 (pictured) (select 1546 and 1536)

Part No. 820261-096 (select 1526)

5 Buttonhole Foot

Part No. 820295-096

123

56478

1 Felt pad

Part No. 93-033 064-05

2-4 Spool cap

2. Part No. 93-036 048-44

3. Part No. 93-035 050-44

4. Part No. 93-036 049-44

5 Extra spool pin

Part No. 93-033 063-44

Stitches and presser feet

Stitch descriptions are found in the introduction section.

6 Seam ripper

Part No.99-053-016-91

7 Brush

Part No. 93-847 979-91

8 Bobbins

Part No. 93-040 970-45

Page 4

1527

ClassicStyle Quilt

Discover the fascination of quilting!

Congratulations!

You have purchased a top quality Pfaff sewing/quilting

machine with great quilt features.

To learn your

instructions for the

Your

ClassicStyle Quilt

select

the

this manual other accessories are described, they are optional

and can be purchased from your Pfaff dealer.

In the image in the fold out page, the stiches and presserfeet

included with your

ClassicStyle Quilt

1536

select

1536

except from some stitches and accessories. In

1527

ClassicStyle Quilt

Some fabrics have a lot of excess dye which can cause discoloration on other fabric but also on your sewing machine. This discoloring may be very difÀ cult or impossible to remove.

Fleece and denim fabric in especially red and blue often contain a lot of excess dye.

If you suspect that your fabric/ready-to-wear garment contains a lot of excess dye, always pre-wash it before sewing/embroidering to avoid the discoloring.

1527

, follow the

has the same features as

1527

are shown.

Page 5

This household sewing machine is designed to comply with IEC/EN 60335-2-28 and UL1594.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:

Read all instructions before using this household sewing machine.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

• A sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this

sewing machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

• Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watt.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, À re,

electric shock, or injury to persons:

• Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine

is used by or near children or inÀ rm persons.

• Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only

attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

• Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working

properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

• Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation open-

ings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose threads.

• Keep À ngers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing

machine needle.

• Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

• Do not use bent needles.

• Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deÁ ect the needle causing it to break.

• Switch the sewing machine off (“0”) when making any adjustment in the needle area,

such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.

• Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers,

lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

• Do not use outdoors.

• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being

administrated.

• To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“0”) position, then remove plug from outlet.

• Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

Page 6

Page 7

Contents

Introduction

Stitch table V

1. Operate your Pfaff select

Electrical connection 1:2

Removable accessory tray 1:3

Bobbins 1:4

Bobbin case 1:8

Threading the needle 1:10

Needle threader 1:11

Bringing up the bobbin thread 1:12

Presser foot lifter 1:13

Thread cutter 1:12

Changing the presser foot 1:13

IDT System/Integrated Dual Feed 1:14

Changing the needle 1:15

Needle thread tension 1:15

Lowering the feed dog 1:15

Stitch width dial 1:16

Needle position dial 1:16

Reverse sewing 1:17

Stitch length dial 1:17

Stitch selection 1:18

2. Utility stitches and practical sewing

Sewing chart 2:2

General sewing aids 2:3

Non-elastic stitches 2:4

Elastic stitches 2:6

Overlockstiche 2:7

Shell edging 2:8

Buttonhole 2:9

Button sewing 2:10

Hemming with the twin needle 2:11

Free Motion Sewing 2:12

Sewing on zippers 2:13

Stabilizing edges 2:15

3. Maintenance and trouble-shooting

Changing the needle plate 3:2

Cleaning 3:2

Replacing the sewing blub 3:3

Trouble-shooting 3:4

Introduction

III

Page 8

Stitch table (non-elastic stitches)

select 1546

select 1536 & select 1526

Stitch Description Application

1546 1536/1526

A/B/C A/B/C

E–

F–

Introduction

H–

L–

IG –

LC –

LG –

LI -

MDF –

–G

Buttonhole Standard buttonhole for blouses or bed linens

Blind stitch with zigzag (elastic)

Greek stitch with zigzag A traditional decorative stitch e.g. for towel

Scallop stitch A traditional decorative stitch e.g. for towel

Straight stitch, 15 needle positions, stitch width dial set at 0

Zigzag stitch, 15 needle positions, stitch width dial set at 0.5 – 5

Left needle position (for straight stitch and zigzag stitch)

Center needle position operations.

Right needle position (for straight stitch and zigzag stitch)

Blind stitch For invisible hemming on sturdier materials

Greek stitch, wide A traditional decorative stitch

Shell-edging stitch For Á at overlapped seams

Fancy elastic stitch For overcasting, sewing on elastic, darning tears

Elastic stitch For overcasting, sewing on elastic, darning tears

Viennese stitch Decorative stitch e.g. for household textiles

Emperor stitch, narrow A dainty decorative stitch

Emperor stitch, wide A dainty decorative stitch

Greek stitch, narrow A traditional decorative stitch

Decorative stitch A traditional decorative stitch

Decorative stitch Decorative stitch e.g. for quilting

For invisible hemming with simultaneous seam/ overcasting. Especially for stretch material

borders

For all straight stitching and topstitching work up to 6 mm

For serging and appliqué. Also suitable for tapering, eyelet embroidery and cording work

Straight stitch: For all sewing and top-stitching operations which require a left needle position. Zigzag stitch: For serging, appliqué and tapering.

Straight stitch: For most sewing and top-stitching operations. Zigzag for most zigzag operations

For all sewing and top-stitching operations which require a right needle position. Zigzag stitch: For serging, appliqué, tapering and cording work

and inserting patches

Page 9

Stitch table (stretch stitches)

select 1546

select 1536 & select 1526

Stitch Description Application

1546 1536/1526

E–

F–

H–

L–

MF IG – KM –

-- G

-- H

Peacock’s eye stitch Elastic closing and serging seam. The material

Cover stitch For top-stitching and overstitching stretch

Herringbone stitch A decorative stitch for top-stitching or whip

Stretch triple straight stitch, 15 needle positions Stretch triple zigzag stitch, 15 needle positions Stitch width knob 0.5 – 5

Left needle position (for stretch triple straight and zigzag stitches)

Center needle position (for stretch triple straight and zigzag stitches)

Right needle position (for stretch triple straight and zigzag stitches)

Pullover stitch Elastic closing and serging seams for jersey. The

Closed overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for materials which

Open overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for sturdy materials or

Feather stitch For joining two À nished edges with a gap

Honeycomb stitch For sewing on elastic thread, overstitching terry

Penant stitch A decorative stitch also used as a covering stitch

Cord stitch A loose decorative stitch

Heavy open overlock stitch A closing and serging seam on heavy materials

Decorative stitch Embellishment

must be turned by 180 degrees

materials, e.g. cuffs, hems and panels

stitching hems, e.g. pajamas and sweatsuits

For stretch seams, e.g. inside seams as well as seams on sportswear and workwear

For sewing elastic bands on elastic materials or seams on stretch materials

For elastic seams which require a left needle position

For elastic seams which require a center needle position

For elastic seams which require a right needle position

material must be turned by 180 degrees

fray easily

materials which do not fray easily

between, e.g. hemstitching. Also for crazy quilting

Introduction

Page 10

Stitch table (stretch stitches)

select 1546

Stitch Description Application

1546

LC LD LG LI EK EL

FG ID IF

LK LMK MG

Introduction

Dutch stitch, narrow A decorative stitch, e.g. for household textiles

Dutch stitch A decorative stitch, e.g. for household textiles

Border stitch A decorative stitch, e.g. for traditional embroidery

Weaving stitch An ornamental stitch, e.g. for bath accessories

Spiral stitch A decorative stitch, e.g. for household textiles

Diagonal coverstitch For top-stitching and overstitching stretch materials, i.e.

Turkish stitch with zigzag A top-stitching seam for patchwork and quilting

Branch stitch A decorative elastic stitch, e.g. for sportswear

Floss stitch For whip-stitching hems, e.g. on pajamas and sweatsuits.

Diagonal stitch An elastic decorative stitch

Triangle stitch A decorative, elastic stitch

Florentine stitch A stretch, decorative stitch

cuffs, hems and panels

The material must be turned by 180 degrees

Page 11

1. Operate your Pfaff select

Page 12

Carrying-case

Place the cords, foot control and instruction book in the front pocket of the carrying case.

Lid

Open the folding lid (6) upwards. The stitches of the sewing machine are illustrated on the inside of the lid.

Connecting the foot control

Connect the plug of the foot control to the connecting socket (1) of the sewing machine and to the wall socket. The sewing speed is regulated by pressing the foot control.

Operate your Pfaff select

You can regulate the sewing speed by moving the slide on the front part of the foot control.

Position Position

= half speed

= full speed

AE023 - 120V, USA and Canada AE020 - 230V, Europe AE024 - 240V, Australia

Main switch

When the main switch (2) is switched on, the sewing bulb lights up. The sewing machine is now ready to use.

For the USA and Canada

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to À t in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not À t fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not À t, contact a qualiÀ ed electrician to install the proper outlet.

DO NOT modify the plug in any way.

1:2

Page 13

Accessory tray

Your Pfaff select sewing machine has a removable accessory tray (15) which is also used as an extended work support.

Model 1546, has a special removable accessory organizer. The enclosed accessories are numbered. Sort the enclosed accessories into the corresponding sections of the accessory organizer.

Using the free arm

In order to sew with the free arm, you must remove the accessory tray. Using both hands, swing the accessory tray (15) to the left and lift it out of the hole.

When replacing the removable accessory tray to its proper position, ensure that it is Á ush with the free arm of the sewing machine.

Operate your Pfaff select

1:3

Page 14

Preparing the machine for bobbin winding

Hold the handwheel (4) À rmly and turn the handwheel release disc (3) until it stops in the direction of the arrow. This stops the needle from moving while the machine is winding the bobbin.

Placing the bobbin

Switch off the main switch (2)

Place the empty bobbin so that the black pin of the bobbin winder (5) snaps into the slot of the bobbin. The Pfaff logo is facing up.

Operate your Pfaff select

Push the bobbin to the right

Note: The bobbin can only be wound when it is moved fully to the right.

1:4

Page 15

Winding the bobbin from the spool holder

Place the sewing thread on the spool holder (8). To guarantee free movement of the thread and to give additional hold to the thread spool, À t a spool cap corresponding to the size of the thread spool.

Threading

Place the thread into guide A and pull it through opening B and to the right under the hook C. Wind the thread clockwise a few times around in the bobbin.

Switch on the main switch.

Hold the end of the thread À rmly and press the foot control. The winding action will stop automatically as soon as the bobbin is full. Cut the thread, push the bobbin to the left and remove it.

Don’t forget:

Turn the handwheel release disk (3) fully back again. Then turn the handwheel (4) towards you until it snaps into place.

Operate your Pfaff select

1:5

Page 16

Winding from the second spool holder

Push the second spool holder (7) into its hole and place a spool of thread with the corresponding spool cap on it.

Threading

Place the thread into guide A and pull it through opening B to the right under hook C. Wind the thread clockwise a few times around the bobbin.

Operate your Pfaff select

Switch on the main switch.

Hold the end of thread À rmly and press the the foot control. The winding action will stop automatically as soon as the bobbin is full. Cut the thread, push the bobbin to the left and remove it.

Don’t forget:

Turn the handwheel release disk (3) back again. Then turn the handwheel (4) towards you until it snaps into place.

TIP: If the machine is already threaded, you can easily wind thread from the second spool holder without having to unthread the machine.

1:6

Page 17

Winding through the needle

Even if the machine has been completely threaded, you can still wind the bobbin.

Raise presser foot lifter (19). Pass the needle thread through the presser foot and downwards; then through the right threading slot (11) and upwards.

Now, pull the thread into the take-up lever from left to right (9). The take-up lever must be positioned at its very top.

Pass the thread to the right under the hook C. Then wind the thread several times around the bobbin. Press the foot control and winding the bobbin.

Operate your Pfaff select

Don’t forget:

Make sure to stop the needle from moving while winding the bobbin (see page 1:4).

1:7

Page 18

Bobbin Case/Hook Cover

Switch off the main switch.

Hold the side of the bobbin case/hook cover and open it towards you.

Removing the bobbin case

Raise the bobbin case lever and pull out the bobbin case. Release the lever and remove the empty bobbin.

Operate your Pfaff select

1:8

Page 19

Inserting the bobbin

Insert the full bobbin (with the Pfaff logo facing towards the bobbin case) into the bobbin case. In doing so, pull the thread sideways through slot A, then under the tension plate B until it rests in the opening (see arrow).

Check: When you look at the bobbin and pull the thread, the bobbin must turn clockwise.

Operate your Pfaff select

Inserting the bobbin case

Lift lever E and slide the bobbin case onto the hook pin C as far as it will go. Opening D of the bobbin case must face upwards.

Check: Pull the bobbin thread sharply. The bobbin case must not fall out of the hook.

1:9

Page 20

Threading the needle thread

Switch off the main switch

Raise the presser foot lifter (19) and turn the handwheel until the take-up lever (9) has moved to the top. Place the thread on the spool holder (8) and À t the corresponding spool cap.

Now, using both hands, pull the thread into guide A and under thread guide hook B. Pass the thread through the lefthand threading slot C and downwards. Pull the thread around stop D into the righthand threading slot and upwards E to the take-up lever F.

The thread must be pulled into the take-up lever F from left to right and downwards again in the right hand threading slot. Floss the thread from the side behind one of the two thread guides H.

To thread the needle, stick the thread from front to back through the needle eye.

Operate your Pfaff select

To thread the needle using the needle threader, please refer to the next page.

1:10

Page 21

Needle threader (Model 1546)

To make threading the needle easier and quicker, use the PFAFF needle threader (13). Lower the presser foot. Turn the handwheel until the needle is at its highest position. Place the needle thread under hook A and hold it taut. Move the needle threader fully downwards and turn it towards the needle so that the small hook B goes through the needle eye. Place the thread into the hook from below.

Turn the needle threader towards the rear, releasing the thread carefully, and allow the threader to move upwards. You can now pull the thread through the needle eye.

Operate your Pfaff select

Threading the twin needle

Insert the twin needle.

Fit the second spool holder and place one spool of thread on each holder.

In the left threading slot (11) you will À nd tension disk C. During threading, make sure that you pass one thread left and one thread right over tension disk C.

Carry on threading in the usual way, but make sure the threads are not twisted with each other.

Pull the threads right and left into thread guide (24) and thread the needles.

Note: You cannot use the needle threader for a twin needle.

1:11

Page 22

Bringing up the bobbin thread

Switch off the main switch.

Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread and turn the handwheel towards you until the needle is in the highest position and the bobbin thread has formed a loop. Pull the needle thread to bring up the bobbin thread.

Bobbin thread

Close the bobbin case/hook cover and pull the thread under the presser foot to the left.

Operate your Pfaff select

Thread cutter

Pull the threads from the back to the front over the thread cutter (12).

1:12

Page 23

Presser foot lifter

The presser foot is raised or lowered with the presser foot lifter (19).

Removing the presser foot

Switch off the main switch.

Position the needle at its highest point. Press the presser foot upwards at the front and down at the back at the same time so that it disengages from the presser foot holder (14).

Operate your Pfaff select

Engaging the presser foot

Place the presser foot under the presser foot holder (14) so that when the presser foot lifter (19) is lowered, the pins of the foot engage in the presser foot holder.

Check: Please check that the presser foot is properly engaged by raising the presser foot lifter.

1:13

Page 24

The Integrated dual feed/IDT System

(Models 1536 and 1546)

PFAFF offers the ideal solution for sewing difÀ cult materials: the IDT. This system feeds the material from the top and bottom simultaneously as is done in industrial sewing machines. The fabric is fed precisely. When sewing light or difÀ cult materials such as silk and rayon fabrics, the IDT prevents seam puckering.

Engaging the IDT

Important! For all sewing jobs with the IDT, only use sewing feet with cutout at the back.

Raise the presser foot. Then push the IDT (17) downwards until it snaps into place.

Disengaging the IDT

Hold the IDT with two À ngers at the marked places. Push the IDT (17) down a

Operate your Pfaff select

little and out to the rear, and let it move slowly upwards.

The even feeding action also ensures perfect matching of checked and striped fabrics.

1:14

Page 25

Changing the needle

Switch off the main switch.

To remove: Lower the presser foot and move the needle to its highest point. Now loosen the needle screw (18) and pull the needle down.

To insert: The Á at side A of the needle must face to the rear. Lower the presser foot and insert the needle, pushing it up as far as it goes. Hold the needle and tighten the needle screw (18) À rmly.

Setting the needle thread tension

Set the required needle thread tension (10) with the help of the mark B.

The normal setting for sewing is 4 to 5.

For free-motion sewing, darning and buttonhole set the tension between 2 and

Dropping the feed dog

For certain sewing work, e.g. darning or free-motion sewing the feed dog has to be dropped.

To do this, open the bobbin case/hook cover and move slide C fully to the right. Now the feed dog is dropped.

Operate your Pfaff select

1:15

Page 26

Stitch width dial

The stitch width can be adjusted with this dial (26). When selecting the width, the needle must not be in the material.

Basic setting: Turn the stitch width knob (26) to the symbol width).

Exception: Straight stitch is sewn with stitch width 0.

In chapter “2. Utility stitches and practical sewing”, you will À nd recommendations in the tables for the stitch width selection of individual stitches. During sewing you can also change the stitch width.

Needle position dial

In the center needle position 14 additional needle positions can be selected by turning the needle positioning dial (27) in increments to the left or right.

The furthest needle position to the left

can be achieved by turning the dial

(27) as far as it will go to the right. The

Operate your Pfaff select

furthest needle position to the right can be achieved by turning the dial as far as it will go the left. When the position of the needle is being changed, the needle must not be in the material.

Note: If you have selected the right needle position, you can now use the width dial (26) to increase or reduce the width of the left side of the stitch. The reverse applies also for needle position to the left.

(maximum stitch

1:16

Page 27

Reverse sewing

The machine sews in reverse only as long as the reverse sewing button (20) is pressed.

Stitch length adjustment dial

With the stitch length adjustment dial (21) you can adjust the stitch length between 0 and 6 mm by turning the point marking on the button to the required length.

Operate your Pfaff select

Between the numbers 0 and 1 you will À nd the “buttonhole” symbol. This area is the optimum stitch density for sewing buttonholes and embroidering.

The further you turn the dial to 0, the higher the density of the stitch.

To sew stretch stitches (dark background), you must turn the stitch length adjustment dial (21) as far as it will go in the grey area.

1:17

Page 28

Stitch selection, Easy Select System – select 1546

Utility stitches

Each stitch has been given a letter that you can À nd on the push button controls. By pressing the correct button, the stitch is selected and the machine is ready to sew. Button B releases the buttons that have been activated.

Under the lid (6) you will À nd the stitch table with all the utility stitches and stitch combinations.

Stretch stitches

All the stitches with a colored background are stretch stitches, i.e. they are suitable for stretch material. Press the selected button down and turn the stitch length dial (21) as far as it will go in the grey area.

Button B releases the button that have already been selected.

Operate your Pfaff select

Utility and stretch stitch combinations

By pushing two or several buttons you can create combinations in the utility stitch range.

The stitch length dial can either be in the normal sewing range or in the stretch range.

All the stitch combinations are illustrated on the stitch table in the lid. You can release buttons that are already activated with button B.

1:18

Page 29

Stitch selection, stitch dial – select 1536, 1526

Utility stitches

Each stitch is identiÀ ed by a letter. The stitches and their corresponding letters are shown on the inside of the lid, a chart is also found in the Introduction chapter.

Turn the dial (24) until the corresponding letter is positioned below mark A.

Stretch stitches

All the stitches with a colored background are stretch stitches, i.e. they are suitable for stretch material.

Turn the dial (24) until the corresponding letter is positioned below mark A.

Turn the stitch length dial (21) as far as it will go in the grey area.

Operate your Pfaff select

1:19

Page 30

Operate your Pfaff select

1:20

Page 31

2. Utility stitches and practical sewing

Page 32

Explanation of the sewing chart

The following charts show the recommended settings for each stitch or technique.

These charts also provide you with instructions that are necessary when sewing the selected stitches.

The choice of the sewing foot, the setting of the needle thread tension and whether to use IDT or not.

Always use the “center” needle position

if not otherwise speciÀ ced in the

instructions.

stitch

Stitch number

Stitch width in mm

Stitch length in mm

IDT on =

off =

Thread tension

Presser foot number

Utility stitches and practical sewing

2:2

Page 33

Perfect tension

Too high tension

Too low tension

Needle thread tension

To get perfect sewing results, the needle and bobbin thread tensions must be perfectly tuned to each other. The normal setting for utility stitches is in the range of 4-5.

Check the tension with a wide zigzag stitch. The threads must be interlaced between the two fabric pieces.

If the needle thread tension is too high the threads are interlaced above the top fabric. If the needle thread tension is too low, the threads are interlaced below the lower fabric.

The adjustment of the needle thread tension is described on page 1:15.

Topstitching

Straight stitch G can be sewn using any of 15 various needle positions in such a way that you can always guide the sewing foot along the fabric edge for top-stitching work. The top-stitch needle position is determined by the needle position dial. If you wish to top-stitch farther from the fabric edge, simply guide the fabric along the guide marks on the needle plate or use the edge guide (standard accessory No.8). The edge guide is inserted into hole A and is secured with À xing screw B.

Sewing aid for thick seams

To ensure a consistent feed when beginning sewing at a thick seam, we recommend supporting the presser foot on a piece of fabric of the same height as the workpiece

Utility stitches and practical sewing

2:3

Page 34

stitch

2,5

Straight stitch

Stitch G is the basic straight stitch. The stitch length can be increased up to 6 mm.

It is easier to do some sewing jobs by changing the needle position, e.g. topstitching a collar or sewing in a zipper. You can select up to 15 different needle positions (see page 1:16).

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Please ensure that the needle is at its highest position when adjusting the needle position.

3-5

0/1

1-2

Zigzag stitch

In addition to overlock stitching, zigzag stitch G, stitch width 5

, is also suitable for overcasting various materials. In this case, the material should only be positioned halfway under the sewing foot.

When overcasting the edge, make sure the needle goes into the material and over the edge alternately.

The width for overcasting can be reduced up to 2 mm.

For overcasting difÀ cult materials, blind stitch foot No. 3 is very useful. When sewing, the thread lies over pin C, thus preventing curling of the fabric edge. In this way you can sew beautiful smooth seams.

The raw edge must be guided along edge guide B. You can adjust this edge guide with adjusting screw A.

Important: When the blindhem stitch foot is used for overcasting with the zigzag stitch, select the right needle position. Choose a stitch width in the range of 3-5 mm (do not use any other needle position).

3-5

0/1

2:4

Page 35

stitch

D/H

1-2

3-5

0/3

Blindhem stitch

Blindhem stitch H is best suited for invisible hems; sewing by hand is no longer necessary. For wool fabrics Blindhem stitch H and for stretch fabrics Blindhem stitch D.

• Serge the edge of the hem

• Fold the edge inwards by the hem width.

• Now unfold the hem again so that the hem edge protrudes by about 1 cm

• Place the fabric under the sewing foot so that the crease line runs along edge guide B.

• Using the needle positioning knob 27, select the needle position to the right

• When the needle enters the crease line, it must only pick up one À ber of the fabric.

Remember!

If the stitches are visible on the right side, adjust edge guide B by turning adjusting screw A.

Tip: If you chose to sew Blindhem stitch H or Blidhem stitch D with stitch width less than 5, use foot nr.0.

Stitch D

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Blindhem stitch (elastic)

Stitch D or H is a blind stitch for woven or elastic fabrics. The hem is sewn and overcast at the same time.

Stitch H

2:5

Page 36

stitch

1-2,5

3-5

0/1

stitch

0,2-1,5

3-5

0/1

Elastic stitch

Because of its high elasticity, this stitch can be used for sewing elastic on swimwear, skirts or lingerie.

• Mark elastic and fabric in quarters.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

• Pin elastic to fabric at quarter markings.

• Place fabric and elastic under sewing foot.

• Stretch elastic to À t the fabric. Begin sewing.

Note: When stretching elastic, make sure to stretch from the front and back of the sewing foot.

Darning with the elastic stitch

Darn with the elastic stitch for repairing damaged areas.

• Sew over the damaged area in rows until it is well covered. Take care to ensure that the rows overlap.

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What is an overlock stitch?

For stretch fabrics, the select models offer overlock stitches which sew two fabric layers together and overcast simultaneously. They are more elastic than normal seams, very durable and quickly sewn.

Tip: We recommend using blindhem stitch

foot No. 3 when sewing overlock seams. It guides particularly well and prevents the seam from puckering even on wide seams. Also remember to set the red marker on the foot to the right position. This to guide the fabric edge.

stitch

Stretch

3-5

0/3

Open overlock stitch

With this stitch, thicker fabrics and fabrics which do not fray too much can be sewn together perfectly.

Tip: Make sure that the needle sews to the right of the fabric just over the edge and not in it.

stitch

Stretch

3-5

Closed overlock stitch

The closed overlock stitch is perfect for sewing jersey knits. You can also sew sleeve cuffs and knit collars which are well-sewn and long-lasting.

Tip: Ensure that the sleeve cuff is stretched while it is being sewn.

Remember!

When overlocking, if you select stitch width other than 5

, make sure the needle does not strike the bar of sewing foot 3.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

0/3

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Shell-edging

Shell-edging is attractive on thin, soft fabrics such as silk and Bastiste.

It is often used as a decorative edging on lingerie.

The higher the needle thread tension, the deeper the shell edge scallop.

• Serge the fabric edge and iron the seam allowance to the left.

• Take care that the fabric only runs half underneath the presser foot while sewing. This intensiÀ es the effect of the shell- edging.

select

4,5

1,5

4-5

0/1

Tip: By sewing a col

ored woollen or 12 wt. cotton thread into the seam you strengthen the shell-edge while also creating an attractive contrast in the seam. A À ne fabric of another color can also be used instead of a woollen

Utility stitches and practical sewing

thread. Just lay the heavy thread against the edge of the fold and let the zigzag swing of the stitch catch the heavy thread forming a scallop.

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Buttonholes

Sewing buttonholes is very easy with all the models with push button controls since the fabric does not have to be turned.

Buttonholes are generally sewn onto a piece of doubled fabric. However, for some fabrics, e.g. silk, organza and viscose, it is necessary to use stabilizer to prevent the fabric from contracting while sewing.

To produce beautiful seams, embroidering or darning threads are ideal.

Mark the starting point of the buttonhole either with a magic pen or dress pin, and always sew a sample buttonhole À rst.

Note: Before starting any buttonhole, always push the guide of the buttonhole foot fully to the front, i.e. so that the red arrow is at the À rst red mark. The red marks are arranged at an interval of 0.5 cm. They are a guide when determining the length of the buttonhole.

stitch

CBA

–

0/1

1546 – Standard buttonhole

• Insert the buttonhole foot and slide the foot forward as far as it will go.

• Select stitch 1 (C) and sew the right side of the buttonhole to the required length. Clip the top thread after a few stitches.

• Select stitch 2 (B) and hold the button down as you sew a few bartacks.

• Select stitch 3 (A) and sew the left side of the buttonhole until it matches the previous side in length.

• Select stitch 4 (B) and hold the button down as you sew a few bartacks.

• Release button B and sew a couple stitches to secure your buttonhole.

• Carefully cut open your buttonhole.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Tip: For À ne buttonholes, you can reduce the buttonhole width with the stitch width dial (27) down to approx. 3 mm. Use the center needle position

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stitch

–

ABC

–

3-5

1526/1536 – Standard buttonhole

• Insert the buttonhole foot and slide the foot forward as far as it will go.

• Select stitch A. Sew the left side of the buttonhole to the required length. Clip the top thread after a few stitches.

• Select stitch B and sew a few bartacks while holding the fabric securely.

• Select stitch C. Sew the right side of the buttonhole until it matches the previous side in length.

• Select stitch B and sew a few bartacks while holding the fabric securely.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

• Select stitch D. Secure the buttonhole by sewing a few stitches.

• Carfully cut open your buttonhole.

–

0/1

Standard buttonhole with gimp thread

To sew especially durable buttonholes, on heavy fabrics, knits or sportswear, we recommend using a gimp thread.

On knits the gimp thread is particularly important to prevent the buttonhole from stretching.

• Lay the gimp thread over the rear protrusion A and pass the thread ends underneath the presser foot towards the front.

• Clamp the threads to the left and right of protrusion B.

• Slide the buttonhole runner as far forwards as possible and sew the buttonhole as described for your select model.

• Pull the loop of the gimp thread into the buttonhole and cut the threads.

Tip: For À ne buttonholes, you can reduce the buttonhole width with the stitch width dial (27) down to approx. 3 mm. Use the center needle position

2:10

Carfully cut open your buttonhole with scissors or a seam ripper.

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stitch

–

2-3

–

3-5

0/1

Sewing on buttons

With zigzag stitch G (stitch width 4 mm) you can sew on two and four hole buttons.

• Remove the sewing foot and lower the feed dog.

• Turn the handwheel towards you and move the button so that the needle enters the left hole in the button.

• Now lower the presser foot lifter; this holds the button in place.

• Sew on the button. Take care to ensure that the needle also enters the right-hand hole in the button.

Securing

• Select straight stitch by turning the width dial (26) to 0.

• Change the needle position with the needle position dial (27) so that the needle enters one of the two holes.

• Sew a few securing stitches.

Hemming with the twin needle

Use the twin needle to make beatiful topstitch seams.

Using the twin needle you can add a professional touch to hems on stretch fabrics such as T-shirts, knitted articles or cycling shorts both quickly and easily.

Twin needles are available in different widths. The traditional width for topstitching is 4 mm. To prevent the needle from striking the needle plate, you must make sure that you select the center needle position .

• First fold and iron the width of fabric desired for the hem.

• Then topstitch the hem from the right side.

• Finally, cut the protruding hem edge back to the seam.

Use only a stretch needle when sewing stretch fabric!

Tip: On difÀ cult fabrics such as ribbed knit- wear it is advisable to baste the hem before topstitching it.

On page 1:11 you will À nd a description of how to thread the twin needle.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

stitch

–

2-3

Optional

Free Motion Sewing

Insert the darning foot:

Loosen screw D. Set the needle at its highest point and push the pin of the darning foot fully into the hole C of the sewing foot holder. When doing this, the guide fork G should position itself around the presser bar. The lever E must be behind the À xing screw F. Now tighten screw D.

Free Motion Position:

Lower the presser foot lifter (A) while pushing it lightly to the rear. This snaps the presser foot lifter into a notch (B) on

the back side of the sewing machine into the free motion position.

• Drop the feed dog.

• Select a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch.

• Keep an even speed, manually move your fabric.

2:12

Tip: For even stitches, move your fabric at a smooth even Á ow. Move the fabric so the stitching does not cross.

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Sewing on zippers

There are various methods of sewing on zippers. For skirts, we recommend the fully concealed zipper, for men’s and ladies’ trousers the semi concealed zipper. Various zippers are available. We recommend using a metal zipper for strong fabrics such as denim. For all other fabrics we recommend a plastic zipper.

It is important for all types of zippers to sew very close to the edge of the teeth of the zipper. This is why it is possible to insert the zipper foot either on the right or the left of the presser foot holder.

You can set the needle so that it enters close to the edge of the zipper teeth by using one of the 15 available needle positions. If the foot is engaged to the right, the needle must only be moved to the right. If the foot is engaged left, the needle must only be moved to the left.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

stitch

Left presser foot position

Right presser foot position

3-5

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Fully concealed, sew-in zipper

• Insert the zipper foot on the right side.

• Baste in the zipper and lay it underneath the presser foot so that the teeth of the zipper run alongside the foot.

• Stitch in half of the zipper, leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and close the zipper.

• Now you can continue sewing the seam up to the end of the zipper and sew the cross seam.

• Sew the second half of the zipper parallel at the same distance.

• Stop after the À rst half and leave the needle in the fabric. Raise the presser foot and open the zipper.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

• Now you can À nish sewing the seam.

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Stabilizing edges

With the rolled hem foot you can hem blouses, silk scarves and valances with ease, without having to pre-iron the fabric edges. The hemming prevents the edges from fraying and a clean, durable edge is the result.

• Fold the beginning of the fabric edge over twice (approx. 2 mm)

• Lay the folded fabric edge underneath the hemmer and sew a few stitches.

• Leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and insert the fabric into the rolled hem foot scroll.

• Lower the presser foot and guide the fabric evenly into the rolled hem foot.

Take care that the fabric does not run under the right half of the presser foot.

stitch

3-5

Optional

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Tip: On silk

, Bastiste and chiffon fabrics, the roll hem is particularly attractive with a zigzag stitch

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3. Maintenance and trouble-shooting

Page 48

Changing the needle plate

Switch off the main switch.

It is very important to clean your sewing machine, because it will reward you with a longer service life. The more often you use the machine, the more care it needs.

Removal:

• Raise the sewing foot and remove the removable accessory tray.

• Push the point of a small screwdriver into the opening between needle plate and sewing machine.

Twist it lightly to the right and the needle plate will snap half way out of its mounting. Now push the screwdriver into the left opening and take the needle plate out.

Replacing:

• Place the needle plate on Á at at the back and push it down with both hands at the front until you hear it snap in place. Before you start sewing, check that the

Maintenance and trouble-shooting

needle plate is lying Á at.

Cleaning

Switch off the main switch.

• Remove the needle plate and lower the feed dog.

• Clean the feed dog and hook area with the brush.

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Changing the sewing bulb

Switch off the main switch.

• Disconnect the main plug and the foot control plug from the machine.

• Take off the removable accessory tray (15).

The sewing bulb is located inside the left side of the sewing machine.

Removal:

• Hold the sewing machine tightly.

• Push the bulb into its socket as far as it will go.

• At the same time, turn the bulb a half turn anti-clockwise and remove it.

Insertion:

• Insert the bulb in the diagonal socket and turn it so that both stops of the bulb engage.

• Now push the bulb fully into the socket and turn it clockwise so that it is held À rmly.

Note: The bulb changer (available as a special accessory) will make changing the bulb much easier.

Important!

The maximum allowed wattage of the bulb with a plug-in socket is 15 watts!

Maintenance and trouble-shooting

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Trouble-shooting

The machine skips stitches

The needle is not properly inserted. Push needle fully upwards, Á at side

facing the back. The wrong needle is inserted. Use a needle system 130/705 H. Needle is bent or blunt. Insert a new needle. Machine is not properly threaded. Check how machine is threaded. Needle is too small for thread. Use a larger needle.

Needle thread breaks

See reasons above. See above. Thread tension is too tight. Adjust thread tension. Thread is poor or has slubs in it, or has

become dry after too-long storage. Thread is too thick.

Needle breaks off

Needle is not pushed fully in. Insert new needle and push fully in. Needle is bent. Insert new needle.

Needle is too thick or too thin.

Maintenance and trouble-shooting

Needle is bent, and has hit the needle plate because you are pulling or pushing the fabric.

The bobbin case is not properly installed. When you insert the bobbin case, push

Only use good threads.

Use needle with large eye (System 130 N).

Insert new needle. Let the machine feed the fabric.

Only guide the fabric lightly.

it fully into the stop.

Seam is sewn unevenly

The tension needs adjusting. Check top tensions. Thread is too thick, slubbed or hard. Only use perfect threads. The bobbin thread is unevenly wound. Do not wind thread free-hand, but run

it on through the winding tension. Thread bunching at top or bottom side of

fabric.

3:4

Thread up correctly. Check top

tensions.

Page 51

Machine does not feed or feeds irregularly

Sewing lint has collected between the feed dog teeth rows.

Feed dog is lowered, slide A (see page

Remove needle plate, remove lint with brush.

Push slide B (see page 1:15) to left.

1:15) at right.

Machine is running with difÀ culty

There are thread remnants in the hook

Remove the threads.

race.

Important note!

Before you replace sewing feet or needles, you must switch off the main switch. Do not start the threaded machine without fabric in it. If you leave the machine, even for a short time, do not forget to switch off the main switch. This is important if children are nearby.

Maintenance and trouble-shooting

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We reserve the right to change the machine equipment and the ass ort ment of accessories without prior notice, or make modiÀ cations to the performance or design.

Such modiÀ cations, however, will always be to the beneÀ t of the user and the product.

Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating to electrical/electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance.

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VSM Group AB • SE-561 84 Huskvarna • SWEDEN

www.pfaff.com